Land Rover Defender Workshop 1993 Rover Manual

							STEERING 
16. Fit the drop  arm, aligning  the assembly  marks. 
17. Fit the  tab washer  and drop  arm nut and 
tighten  to the  correct  torque using a suitable 
restraining  bar between  the chassis  and drop 
arm. 
18. Bend  the tab of the washer  over  a convenient 
flat. 
19. Fit the  ball  pin to the drag  link, tighten  the nut 
and  secure  with a new  split pin. 
Fitting new  seals 
11. Clean  the seal  housing  and around  the sector 
shaft. 
12. Lubricate,  and place  the seal  saver  part B of 
the  tool  over  the shaft. 
13. Lubricate  and fit part A of the tool with the 
shoulder  against the face  of the 
box. 
14. Lubricate  and slide  the seal,  lip side  leading, 
over  the seal  saver  and 
with part C of the 
tool, drive  the seal  into position. 
15. Fit the  anti  extrusion  washer, dirt seal,  and 
secure  with the circlip.  Finally 
fit the dust  seal 
so the the lip is flat  against  the face of the 
box. 
REISSUED:  FEB 1993  
						

							STEERING 
POWER ASSISTED  STEERING  PUMP - 
OVERHAUL 
1. Disconnect the battery  and remove  the pump 
from  the vehicle. 
2. Clean  the exterior of the pump  and remove 
the  drive  pulley. 
3. Remove,  from the outlet  port, the union  nut, 
two O rings,  spring  and valve. 
4. Secure  the pump  cover removal  tool LST 142 
in a vice  and insert  the pump  in the  tool. 
5. Fit the  three 6 mm  bolts  through  the tool  into 
the  pump  hub. Tighten  the bolts  evenly  until 
the  cover 
is released from the  sealing  ring 
and  can be removed  from the  pump. 
8. Remove  the pump  outer member  and the 
rollers. 
9. Release  the spring  ring from the groove 
behind  the vane  and push 
it back  towards  the 
drive  shaft housing. 
6. Remove  the large  O ring  and secure  the 
pump  in a vice. 
7. Remove  the swarf collection  magnet and the 
four  bolts  and lift 
off the valve  housing. 
REISSUED: FEB 1993 25  
						

							STEERING 
17. Wrap  a smooth  surface  tape round  the end of 
the drive  shaft to protect  the seal  lip. 
18.  Lubricate  the seal  lip with  power  steering  fluid 
and  insert  the drive  shaft. 
19.  Fit the  inner  spring  ring 
to the shaft  but not 
into the groove  at this  stage. 
20.  Fit the  drive  key and  the vane  with the arrow 
towards  the drive  shaft housing  and with  the 
raised  leading  edge 
of the vanes facing left. 
10. 
Move  the vane  back 
to reveal  ana remove  me 
spring  ring 
from the front of the  vane. 
11.  Remove  the vane  and drive  key and  rear 
spring 
ring. 
12.  Withdraw  the drive  shaft. 
13. Prise-out the oil seal  and if necessary 
press
-out  the  bush from the drive  shaft 
housing. 
14.  Clean  and examine  all parts  for wear. 
Assemble  15. 
If removed,  press-in a new  bush in the drive  21. 
Fit 
the  outer spring  ring  to  the  groove  then 
slide  the inner  spring  ring into the rear  groove. 
shaft  housing  to 5 mm below  the machined 
face. 
16.  Using  the seal  replacer  part 
of tool number 
LST 142,  drive-in a new  seal,  lip side  leading, 
into  the drive  shaft housing. 
26 
REISSUED: FEB 1993  
						

							STEERING 
22. Fit the two  dowels  to the  drive  shaft housing. 
23. Insert  the twelve  rollers in the  vane  and fit the It is important  that the following  procedure is 
pump outer member  with the milled  cut  observed  when fitting  a new or overhauled  pump to 
towards the drive shaft housing. 
Power  assisted  steering pump connections 
the vehicle 
1. Remove  dust caps. 
2. Fit clip to large  feed hose. 
3. Push  hose fully on to pump  connection. 
4. Hold clip in position  and tighten  clip screw to 
3 Nm. 
5. Screw  high pressure  union into pump,  finger 
tight. 
6. Hold  pipe in correct  position  and tighten  union 
to 
20 Nm. 
7.  Check  that the hose  clip screws  securing 
hoses  to fluid  reservoir  are tightened 
to 3 Nm. 
24.  Fit the  valve  housing  and secure  with the four 
bolts. Check  that the pump  revolves  freely. 
25.  Insert  the magnet  into the slot  provided. 
26. Lubricate  and fit the large  O ring  and fit the 
cover  ensuring  that the hole  for the  valve 
is 
aligned  with the outlet  port in the  valve 
housing  before the cover  is finally  pushed 
home  over the seal. 
27. Lubricate  and fit the  valve,  spring,  large and 
small  O rings  and the union  nut. 
28. Finally, fit the drive  pulley  with the three bolts 
and washers. 
29.  Fit dust  caps 
to inlet  and outlet  connections. 
REISSUED: FEB 1993 27  
						

							KEY TO PAS PUMP 
1. Drive  shaft and flange  assembly. 12. Valve housing. 
2.  Oil  seal.  13. 
Magnet. 
3.  Drive  shaft bush.  14. 
Pump  cover. 
4. Drive shaft key.  15. 
Pump  cover O ring  seal. 
5. Drive  shaft housing.  16. 
Outlet  pipe union  pipe. 
6.  Inner  spring  ring.  17, 
Large  O ring. 
7. Vane.  18. Small  O ring. 
9. Outer  spring  ring. 20. Valve assembly. 
10. Locating  dowels.  21. 
Pump  assembly  bolts (4 off). 
11. Pump  outer member. 
8. Vane  rollers.  19. Spring 
28 REISSUED: FEB 1993  
						

							STEERING 
POWER STEERING  FAULT DIAGNOSIS 
SYMPTOM CAUSE TEST ACTION CURE 
INSUFFICIENT  POWER (1) Lack of fluid  Check hydraulic fluid  tank level If low, fill and bleed  the system 
ASSISTANCE  WHEN 
PARKING 
(2) Engine idling  speed too low 
(4) Defective  hydraulic pump and/ 
or  pressure relief  valve  Try 
assistance  at fast  idle 
(a)  Fit pressure  gauge between 
high pressure  hose and steering 
pump. with  steering held hard on 
full lock, see  Note 1 below, and 
Power  steering  pump test 
(b)  Release steering  wheel and 
allow engine  to idle. 
See Power 
steering pump  test.  self
-centring action 
This  is caused  by over-tightening  It 
is most important  that this screw 
the rocker shaft  backlash adjusting 
is correctly adjusted See 
screw  on  top of steering box.  instructions governing adjustment 
Check  for  loose torsion  bar fixings  Fit new  valve and  worm assembly 
on  steering 
box valve  and worm 
assembly.  
Check  by  visual inspection, leaks 
from the high pressure pipe  lines 
are  best  found  while holding  the 
steering  on full lock with engine 
running at fast idle  speed (see 
Note 
1 below).  Leaks from  the 
steering box tend  to show 
up under 
low  pressure  conditions,  that is 
engine idling and no pressure on 
steering wheel. 
Check  the 
loose runs of  the  hoses.  Alter  hose route or insulate as 
necessary 
If necessary.  reset idle speed. 
Adjust  the driving  belt. 
If pressure is outside limits  (high or low) after  checking  items 1 and 3, 
see 
Note 2 below 
(3) Driving belt  slipping.  Check belt tension. 
If pressure  is greater,  check 
steering  box for freedom and 
POOR HANDLING  WHEN 
VEHICLE 
IS IN  MOTION  Lack 
of castor 
action 
Steering  too light and /or over 
sensitive 
HYDRAULIC  FLUID LEAKS  Damaged pipework,  loose 
connecting  unions, etc  Tighten 
or renew  as necessary 
EXCESSIVE  NOISE 
(1) If the high pressure hose  is 
allowed to  come into contact with 
the body shell, or any component 
I not insulated  by the  body 
mounting,  noise will 
be 
transmitted lo the car interior. 
(2) Noise from hydraulic pump. 
Excessive pressure  due to faulty 
relief  valve  in hydraulic pump  Check 
oil level  and bleed  system. 
Check  by  visual inspection If no cure,  change  hydraulic  pump. 
Fit  new steering 
box and  rectify 
hydraulic  pump or replace  as 
necessary. 
CRACKED 
STEERING 
Note 
1 
Note 2 
Never  hold the steering  wheel on  full lock for more  than 30 seconds in any  one  minute, to avoid  causing  the oil to 
overheat  and possible damage  to the  seals. 
High  pressure 
- In  general  it may be assumed  that excessive  pressure  is  due to  a  faulty  relief  valve  in the  hydraulic 
pump.  Low  pressure 
- Insufficient  pressure may  be caused  by one of the following: 
1 Low fluid level in  reservoir  Most  usual cause  of 2. Pump belt slip  insufficient pressure 3 4 
5 6 7 
Leaks in the  power  steering  system 
Faulty  relief valve  in the  hydraulic pump 
Fault in  steering box  valve and  worm  assembly 
Leak  at piston sealing  in steering  box 
Worn  components  in either  steering  box or hydraulic pump 
29 REISSUED: FEB 1993  
						

							STEERING 
OVERHAUL DROP ARM BALL JOINT 
The drop  arm ball joint  can be overhauled  and there 
is  a repair  kit available  which consists  of the 
following  items. 
Ball Pin  Ball lower  socket 
Retainer  Spring 
Spring  rings  O ring 
Dust  cover  Cover plate 
Ball top socket  Circlip 
Dismantle 
1 Remove  the drop  arm from  the vehicle  and 
clean  the exterior. 
2. Remove  the spring  rings and prise-off the  dust 
cover. 
3. In  the  interests  of safety,  position  the ball  joint 
under  a press  to relieve  the spring  tension 
and  support  the housing  both sides  of the 
ball 
pin,  as illustrated.  Apply pressure to the cover 
plate  and remove  the circlip  and slowly 
release  the pressure. 
WARNING: Personal  injury could result if the 
circlip  is removed  without pressure  being applied 
and  maintained  to the  cover  plate. 
4. Remove  the spring,  top socket,  and O ring. 
30 REISSUED: FEB 1993  
						

							STEERING 
5. Since the ball  pin cannot  be removed with the 6. Using a sharp-edged  punch or chisel,  drive 
the  ball  lower  socket  from the housing.  Should 
difficulty  be experienced,  apply gentle  heat 
to 
the housing  and then  continue to drive  the 
socket  from the housing. 
7. Clean  the housing  and remove  any burrs. 
retainer 
in position,  tap the threaded  end 
of 
the ball  pin to release  the retainer  and to 
remove the pin from  the housing. 
Assemble 
8. 
Press-in the  lower  socket  squarely  up to the 
shoulder. 
9. Dip  the ball  in Duckhams  LB 10 grease,  or 
equivalent  and 
fit to the  housing  and pack 
with  grease. 
10. Fit the  top  socket. 
11. Fit the  spring,  small diameter  towards the ball. 
12. Fit the  O  ring  and using  the same  method  as 
for  removing  the circlip  and compress  the 
cover  plate and secure  with the circlip.  Ensure 
that  the circlip  is fully  seated  in the  machined 
groove 
. 
13.  Press  the retainer  on to the  ball  pin so that 
the  top edge  is level  with the edge 
of the 
taper. 
14.  Fit the  dust  cover  and retain  with the 
two 
spring  rings. 
15. Fit the  drop  arm to the  steering  box using  a 
new  lock washer.  Tighten the retaining  nut 
to 
the correct  torque and bend  over the lock 
washer. 
16.  Assemble  the ball  pin 
to the drag  link, see 
instructions  for fitting  drag 
link and track  rod, 
and  tighten  the castle  nut 
to the correct  torque 
and  secure  with a new  split  pin. 
REISSUED: FEB 1993 31  
						

							STEERING 
TRACK ROD AND DRAGLINK 
When  adjusting or renewing  a track  rod or draglink  it 
is  important 
to ensure  that the ball  joints  are 
assembled 
in the  same  angular  plane and that  the 
ball  joint  pins are central  in their  respective  housings, 
as  example 
A illustrated  below. Premature  wear 
could  result 
if the pins  are inclined  to one-side  as 
illustration  B. 
4. Check the alignment  as advised by the 
equipment  supplier. 
Adjusting 
CAUTION: 
A track  rod or draglink  that  is 5. Slacken  the clamps  at both  ends of the track 
damaged  or bent  must be renewed. No attempt rod. 
should be made  to repair or straighten  it. 6. Turn  the track  rod to increase  or decrease  its 
effective  length until the toe
-out  is correct. 
FRONT WHEEL  ALIGNMENT - Check and adjust 7. Push  the vehicle  rearwards  turning the 
steering  wheel from side to side 
to settle  the 
Checking ball joints.  Then, with the road  wheels  in the 
straight  ahead position,  push the vehicle 
NOTE:  Recognised  front  wheel  alignment forward a short  distance. 
tracking  equipment  should  be used to perform 8.  Re-check  the track  and if required,  adjust as 
this operation.  Only the use  of  basic  equipment necessary. 
is described  below. See section 04 for alignment 9. 
When  the alignment  is correct,  tap  the  ball 
data. joints in direction  of the  arrows to the 
Make  the following  checks before commencing:  maximum of their  travel 
to ensure full 
The vehicle is on level  ground. 
unrestricted movement of the  track  rod. Then 
The vehicle  is not  loaded. 
return the joints to a central  position  and in 
The  wheels  run true  and are not damaged  or  line. 
buckled. 
The  track  rod is not damaged  or  bent. 
The  ball joints  are not worn and  boots  are  not 
split. 
The  joints  are Set in the  same  angular  plane and 
central  in their  housings.  See Track 
rod and drag 
link. 
1. Set  the  road  wheels in the straight  ahead 
position  and move  the vehicle  forward  a short 
distance  for at least  two revolutions 
of the 
wheels. 
2. Set  up the  equipment to the  manufacturers 
instructions. 
3. Position  the trammel  probes on the  inner  face 
of  the  wheel,  not the  rims, 
if the latter  are 
damaged.  10. 
Finally,  tighten the ball  joint  clamp  nuts and 
bolts  to the  correct  torque. 
32 REISSUED: FEB 1993  
						

							SUSPENSION 
OVERHAUL REAR SUSPENSION 22. Using  ball joint  extractor  tool R01006  or a 
suitable proprietary  tool remove  the ball  joint 
Remove  the lower links from the axle  bracket. 
23.  Remove  the pivot  bracket  complete  with the 
ball  joint  and 
if fitted,  the lower  ball joint  of the 
24.  Remove  the 
two bolts securing  the ball  joint to 
the pivot  bracket  and press  the ball  joint  from 
the  bracket. 
1. 
Jack  up the  rear  of the  vehicle  and lower  on 
2.  Remove  the  nut and bolt retaining  the lower 
link to the  axle  bracket. 
3.  Remove  the three  nuts and bolts  retaining  the 
foward  end of the  link  to the  chassis  bracket. 
4.  Withdraw  the lower  link from  the vehicle. 
5. Remove  the locknut  and washer  and remove 
the  flexible  mounting  from the link. 
to 
axle  stands.  levelling unit. 
NOTE: Replacement  ball joints  are supplied  as 
complete assemblies packed  with grease. 
25. Using two bolts  as a guide to ensure  correct 
alignment  press the knurled  ball joint  into the 
pivot  bracket  and secure  with the two  nuts 
and  bolts. 
Renew the  bushes 
6. Press  out the  bush  from the rear  end of the 
lower  link. 
7. Press  a new  bush  squarely  into the link. Assemble  upper  links and  ball joints 
Fit  the  lower  link 
26.  Fit the  pivot  bracket  ball joint  and bracket to 
the axle  and secure  with the plain  washer 
castle  nut and  split  pin. Tighten  the nut 
to 176 
Nm. 
8. 
Assemble  the flexible  mounting 
to the link and 
secure  with the locknut  but do not  tighten  at 
this  stage.  27. Fit the  levelling  unit, 
if used. 
end  of the  link 
to the chassis  bracket with the 
three  nuts and bolts. 
10. Assemble  the rear  end of the  link to the axle 
bracket  and retain  with the  nut  and bolt,  but 
do  not  tighten  at this  stage. 
11.  Lower  the vehicle 
to the ground  and allow  the 
suspension 
to settle. 
12.  Tighten  the nut  and  bolt at the  rear  end 
of the 
link. 
13. Tighten  the forward  locknut to 176 Nm. 
9. 
Fit the  link 
to the vehicle,  securing  the front  28. Assemble  the upper  links to the  chassis 
attachment  brackets but do not  at this  stage 
fully  tighten  the pivot  nut and  bolt. 
29.  Fit the  upper  link assemblies  to the  chassis 
with  the six  nuts  and bolts,  (three  each side). 
Note  the positions 
of the bolt  heads.  Tighten 
the  nuts  to 47  Nm. 
30. Secure  the rear  ends  of the  upper  links to the 
pivot  bracket  and tighten  the 
two nuts and 
bolts  and tighten  to 
11 5 Nm. 
31. Remove  the jack  from  the chassis,  allow the 
suspension  to settle  and tighten  upper link 
Remove upper  links pivot bolts. 
14.  Jack  up the  vehicle  under the chassis 
so that 
the  rear  axle  is freely  suspended. 
15.  Remove  nuts and bolts  retaining  the upper  32. Remove  the two nuts  and bolts  securing  the 
link  bracket 
to the chassis  frame.  anti-roll bar to the  axle  link. 
16.  Remove  the 
two nuts and bolts  securing  the  33. 
Remove  the eight  nuts and bolts  (four each 
upper  links 
to the pivot  bracket.  side) retaining  the anti-roll bar  to the  chassis 
17.  Withdraw  the upper  links complete  with the  and remove  the bar 
from the vehicle. 
chassis  attachment  brackets from vehicle.  34. Remove  the split  pin and  castle  nut and 
18.  Remove  the nut and bolt retaining  forward end  remove the ball  joint  and link from  the axle 
of  the  link 
to the chassis  bracket and separate  location. 
the 
two parts.  If the  ball  joint  requires  replacement  the 
19.  Press  out the  bush  from the forward  end of  complete link must  be renewed. 
the  links  and squarely  press in new  bushes.  35. Renew  the rubbers  and fit the  anti
-roll bar to 
the  chassis  and secure  with the eight  bolts 
and  nuts  tightening  to 24 
Nm. 
36.  Fit the  ball  joint  and link to the axle  location 
20.  Remove  the levelling  unit 
- if fitted. 
and tighten  the castle  nut to 40 Nrn and fit a 
21.  Remove  the split  pin, castle  nut and  plain  new split  pin. 
washer  securing  the ball  joint  to the  pivot  37. Fit the  anti
-roll bar to the  ball  joint  link and fit 
bracket.  new bushes  in the  sequence  illustrated and 
tighten  the nuts  and bolts,  to the  correct 
Renew  anti-roll bar bushes and  ball joints 
Renew  pivot bracket  ball joint