Land Rover Defender Workshop 1993 Rover Manual
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COOLING SYSTEM COOLING SYSTEM DRAIN AND FILL COOLING SYSTEM Engine Protection WARNING: Do not remove the radiator filler cap To prevent corrosion of the aluminium engine parts it when the engine is hot because the cooling is vital that the cooling system is filled with a solution system is pressurized and personal scalding of clean water and anti -freeze winter and summer. could result. Never fill or top-up with water only, always add anti -freeze. Never use salt water otherwise corrosion will occur. In certain territories where the only available water supply may have some salt content, use only clean rainwater or distilled water, with anti -freeze added. Use only Universal anti-freeze or permanent type ethylene base, without methanol containing, a suitable inhibitor for aluminium engine parts. Use one part of anti -freeze to one part water. Anti-freeze should be used even in climates where is it not necessary as a corrosion inhibitor. No other corrosion inhibitor should be used. A concentration of at least 50% should be maintained. Anti -freeze can remain in the cooling system and will provide adequate protection for two years provided that the specific gravity of the coolant is checked before the onset of the second winter and topped-up with new anti -freeze as required. The specific gravity can be checked with a hydrometer and a 50% concentration at 68° F (20° C shouId read 1.075. 2. Disconnect bottom hose and drain cooling Land Rovers leaving the factory have the cooling system. Connect hose after draining. system filled with a 50% anti-freeze mixture. This 3. To drain the expansion tank remove it from gives protection against frost down to minus 47° C the vehicle, empty. flush-out and refit. If (minus 53° F). necessary renew the expansion tank hose. After the second winter the system should be 4. Make up a solution of anti-freeze and water in drained and thoroughly flushed. Before adding new a separate container in the concentration anti -freeze examine all joints and renew defective required. The cooling system capacity is hoses to make sure that the system is leak proof. quoted in the data section. Therefore to allow See SECTION 09 for protection quantities. for topping up and the expansion tank make up a quantity in excess of this quantity. 5. Although anti-freeze may not be required it should be used as an inhibitor see under Engine Protection. 6. Fill the system through the radiator filler plug until the coolant is just below the filler neck. 7. Fit the plug but do not over tighten. 8. Half fill the expansion tank with coolant and secure the cap correctly. 1. Remove the radiator filler plug.
COOLING SYSTEM To Refit 9. Clean the timing cover mating face and ensure all trace of old gasket is removed. 10. Smear a small quantity of grease on both sides of a new gasket and place it in position on the timing cover. 11. Clean the threads of the four long bolts that penetrate the cylinder block and apply Loctite 572 to the threads. 12. Fit the water pump to the engine and secure with the retaining bolts and single stud that also secures the alternator adjustment strap. 13. Fit the bottom hose to the water pump and radiator. 14. Fit the fan cowl, if removed. 15. Fit and tension the drive belt. 9. Start and run the engine until normal 16. Fit the fan and viscous coupling. operating temperature is reached. Allow the engine to cool and check the levels in the radiator and expansion tank and top up if necessary. Finally check all hose connections for leaks. REMOVING WATER PUMP NOTE: The following instructions cover the basic vehicle without air conditioning and power steering. It may therefore be necessary to remove other items in order to gain access to the water pump. To Remove 1. Disconnect the battery. 2. Disconnect the bottom hose from the radiator to drain the cooling system. 3. Using a cranked open-ended spanner, remove 17. Fill the cooling system with the required the fan and viscous coupling assembly, noting concentration of recommended anti -freeze in that it has a left -handed thread. accordance with the instructions in this section. 4. If necessary, remove the fan cowl. 5. Remove the fan drive belt. 18. Connect the battery and run the engine while 6. Remove the bottom hose from the water checking for leaks. 7. Release the alternator adjustment strap from REMOVING THERMOSTAT 8. Remove the fourteen bolts and withdraw the To Remove ST3166M pump. the water pump stud. water pump and gasket. 1. Disconnect the battery and drain the cooling NOTE: Information relating to the inspection of system. the water pump is contained in the engine 2. Remove any pipes, hoses, or other items that overhaul section 12. may inhibit access to the thermostat housing. 3. Remove the thermostat cover and withdraw the thermostat. Clean any deposits from the housing and the cover.
COOLING SYSTEM 4. The temperature at which the thermostat 7. Fit the thermostat cover using a new gasket. should be fully open is stamped on the Coat the threads of the retaining screws with forward end of the thermostat. The following Loctite 572 and tighten the screws evenly to method can be used to determine if the the correct torque. thermostat is satisfactory and suitable for 8. Connect all pipes and hoses and refill the refitting. cooling system in accordance with the instructions in this section. 5. Place the thermostat and a Centigrade thermometer in a laboratory beaker, or a suitable alternative, half full of water. Heat the water and observe the temperature at which the thermostat opens. If faulty, discard the thermostat. To Refit 6. The thermostat has a small vent hole in which is fitted a jiggle pin to keep the hole clear. Fit the thermostat to the housing ensuring that this vent is uppermost at the 12 oclock position. If fitted in any other way, an air lock could result in the water passages causing overheating and coolant loss from the system.
COOLING SYSTEM REMOVING RADIATOR To Refit To remove 12. Lower the radiator into position in the engine compartment, ensuring that the two pegs at 1. Disconnect the battery. the bottom of the radiator locate in the 2. Drain the cooling system. corresponding rubber pads in the cross 3. Disconnect the expansion and overflow hoses member brackets. from the top of the radiator. 13. Locate the cowling into the clips at the bottom 4. Release radiator support bracket fixings and of the radiator and secure it to the top with detach brackets. the four screws. 5. Slacken top hose clip, detach hose and place 14. Secure the top of the radiator with the two aside. brackets and bolts. 6. Place a suitable container under the oil cooler 15. Secure the top and bottom hoses. hose connections. 16. Connect the oil cooler hoses to the radiator. 7. Disconnect oil cooler hoses at cooler and 17. Connect the expansion tank and overflow place aside. hoses. Ensure all hose clips are fully 8. Slacken bottom hose clip, detach hose and tightened. place aside. 18. Refill cooling system with correct coolant 9. Remove the screws securing the cowling to mixture. the radiator. 10. Lift the cowling out of the clips at the bottom of the radiator and push it back towards the engine. 11. Carefully lift the radiator out of the engine compartment. 19. Check and top up engine oil as necessary.
COOLING SYSTEM FAULT DIAGNOSIS SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSE CURE A-EXTERNAL LEAKAGE 1.Loose hose clips 1.Tighten 2Defective rubber hose 2.Renew 3. Damaged radiator seams 3. Rectify 4. Excessive wear in the water pump 4. Renew 5. Loose core plugs 5. Renew 6. Damaged gaskets 6. Renew 7. Leaks at the heater connections 7. Rectify or plugs 8. Leak at the water temperature 8. Tighten gauge plug 1. Defective cylinder head gasket 2. Cracked cylinder wall 3. Loose cylinder head bolts 1. Boiling 2. Internal or external leakage 3. Restricted radiator or inoperative B-INTERNAL LEAKAGE 1. Renew. Check engine oil for contamination and refill as necessary 2. Renew cylinder block 3. Tighten. Check engine for oil contamination and refill as necessary 1. Ascertain the cause of engine overheating and correct as necessary 2. See items A and B 3. Flush radiator or renew the thermostat as necessary 1. See item D 2. Refill 3. Use air pressure from engine side of the radiator and thoroughly clean matrix C-WATER LOSS F-OVERHEATING 1. Poor circulation 2. Dirty oil and sludge in engine 3. Radiator fins choked with chaff, mud, etc 4. lncorrect ignition timing 4. Check using electronic equipment 5. Insufficient coolant 5. See item D 6. Low oil level 6. Replenish 7. Tight engine 7. New engines are very tight and moderate speeds should be maintained for the first 1,000 miles 8. Choked or damaged exhaust pipe 8. Rectify or renew silencer or silencer 9. Dragging brakes 9. Adjust brakes 10. Overloading vehicle 10. ln the hands of the operator 11. Driving in heavy sand or mud 12. Engine labouring on gradients 13. Low gear work 14. Excessive engine idling 16. Defective thermostat 16. Renew 11. In the hands of the operator 12. In the hands of the operator 13.ln the hands of the operator 14. In the hands of the operator 15. lnaccurate temperature gauge 15. Renew I D-POOR CIRCULATION 1. Restriction in system 1. Check hoses for crimps, reverse-flush the 2. lnsufficient coolant 2. Replenish I 3. lnoperative water pump 3. Renew 4. Loose fan belt 4. Adjust 5. Inoperative thermostat 5.Renew radiator, and clear the system of rust and sludge
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSE CURE E-CORROSION 1. Excessive impurity in the water 1. Use only soft, clean water together with correct anti-freeze or inhibitor mixture 2. lnfrequent flushing and draining of 2. The cooling system should be drained and system flushed thoroughly at least once a year 3. lncorrect anti-freeze mixtures 3. Certain anti-freeze solutions have a corrosive effect on parts of the cooling system. Only recommended solutions should be used. G-OVERCOOLING 1. Defective thermostat 1. Renew 2. Inaccurate temperature gauge 2.Renew
MANIFOLDS AND EXHAUST EXHAUST SYSTEM COMPLETE ST3420M NOTE: Ensure no exhaust leaks are evident in either a new or old exhaust system, as this will affect vehicle performance. disconnect any components until exhaust system WARNING: To prevent personal injury occurring from a hot exhaust system, DO NOT attempt to has cooled down.
MANIFOLDS AND EXHAUST EXHAUST SYSTEM EXHAUST MANIFOLD Remove and refit Removing Left hand Remove and refit 1. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and Right hand apply the parking brake. 2. Disconnect the electrical plugs from the Removing heated oxygen sensors. 3. Remove the three nuts securing each front pipe to the manifold. and remove the gaskets. 4. Remove the two nuts and bolts securing the front pipe to the intermediate pipe. 5. Withdraw the front pipes with catalysts. 3. Remove the manifold(s) and old gaskets. 6. Remove the two nuts and bolts securing the intermediate pipe to the tail pipe. 7. Remove the nut and bolt securing the tail pipe mounting bracket. Withdraw the tail pipe and silencer, and collect the rubber mounting. 8. Remove the nut and bolt securing intermediate pipe front and rear mountings. Withdraw the intermediate pipe and silencer and collect the rubber mountings. 1. Disconnect the front exhaust pipe(s) from the 2. Tap back the bolt locking tabs and remove the eight bolts, lock tabs and washers. Refitting NOTE: Apply Firegum Putty, part no. 15608 to all exhaust system joints with the exception of the exhaust flange to manifold flange, where a new gasket should be fitted. 9. Reverse the removal instructions. Refitting 4. Ensure that the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and exhaust manifold are clean and smooth. 5. Coat the threads of each bolt with anti-seize compound. 6. Place the manifold and new gaskets in position on the cylinder head and fit the securing bolts, new lockplates and plain washers. The plain washers are fitted between the manifold and lockplates. 7. Evenly tighten the manifold bolts to the correct torque, see torque wrench settings section 06, and bend over the lockplate tabs. 8. Reconnect the front exhaust pipe, using new exhaust flange gaskets. INTAKE MANIFOLD The removal and refit of the intake manifold is incorporated in the Fuel Injection System, Section 19. manifold(s).
ASSEMBLY RENEWAL SPECIAL TOOLS CLUTCH The major part of clutch assembly renewal is the LRT-12-001 Clutch centralising tool removal of the transmission to gain access to the clutch. Because of the considerable combined weight Remove of the main gearbox and transfer box and the off-set centre of gravity, it is vital that clutch replacement 1. Remove the transmission, see SECTION 37. must only be undertaken by organisations or 2. Mark the position of the clutch cover to the individuals that have the necessary experience and flywheel to assist with reassembly. essential equipment to enable the transmission to be 3. Working evenly and diagonally remove the removed safely, without the risk of personal injury clutch cover securing bolts. and damage to the transmission and vehicle. Details 4. Do not disturb the three bolts in the clutch of the recommended transmission hoist and special cover. cradles are contained in SECTION 37. 5. Remove clutch cover assembly. 6. Withdraw the clutch friction plate. Always ascertain the reason for the necessity to renew the clutch before attempting to fit a new assembly. Careful examination of the clutch and the associated components should be carried out. This should also include checking the clutch hydraulic system if the reason for clutch failure is not immediately apparent. See Clutch Fault Diagnosis. If oil is present on the clutch lining the source of the oil contamination should be investigated. If necessary, the rear main bearing oil seal should be renewed as described in SECTION 12 . Excessive wear of the clutch due to the vehicle having been used continually for wading without the flywheel housing plug being fitted, would be evident by rust on all parts including the release assembly and splines of the primary shaft. The clutch cover and friction plate should always be 7. Reverse items 5 and 6, aligning the assembly renewed together. Also it would certainly be wise to replace the release bearing and possibly the marks and using the centralising tool I 8. Fit the cover securing bolts, working in a When fitting the clutch it is important that the splines diagonal sequence. Finally tightening the bolts to a torque of 28Nm. of the primary shaft are smeared with Molybdenum Disulphide grease such as Rocol M.T.S. 1000 to 9. Refit the transmission. prevent seizure. Also the friction plate must be centralised while the cover bolts are evenly tightened to the correct torque. Refitting remainder of the mechanism if any wear is present. LRT-12-001.
CLUTCH DRAGS - Start with check No. 20 and proceed as directed. POSSIBLE CAUSES CHECK AND ACTION 1 Free play at the clutch pedal Yes Check3 No Check2 2 Clutch pedal tight on the pivot shaft Yes Free the clutch pedal and lubricate No Check 3. 3 Clutch release mechanism sticking Yes Free the mechanism No Check4 4 Clutch slave or master cylinder pistons seized or sticking Yes Repair or renew the cylinder No Check 5. 5 Clutch diaphragm cracked Yes Renew the cover plate No Check6 6. Friction plate worn Yes Renew the friction plate No Check7 No No Check 9 No Check 10 No Check 11 piston seals leaking No Check 12 No Check 13. No Check 14. No No Check 16. piston seals leaking No Check 17 No Check 18. No Check 19 No Check20 No Check21 No Check22 Yes No Check 23. No 7 Oil on the friction plate linings Yes Renew the friction plate and rectify the oil leak Suspect the friction plate sticking on splines 8. Engine or gearbox rnountings worn or slack Yes Tighten or renew the mountings 9 Drive shaft joints/propeller shaft joints or splines worn Yes Renew components as necessary 10. Clutch release mechanism sticking or detective Yes Free or renew the release mechanism. 11. Clutch slave or master cylinder pistons sticking or Yes Repair or renew the cylinder 12 Friction plate cushion springs broken or weak Yes Renew the clutch assembly complete. 13. Riven plate sticking on splines Yes Free the driven plate. 14 Friction plate distorted or oil on the linings Yes Renew the friction plate and rectify the oil leak i- 15. Clutch release mechanism or dutch pedal sticking Yes Free as necessary. 16. Clutch slave or master cylinder piston sticking or Yes Repair or renew the cylinder. 17. Friction plate sticking on splines Yes Free the friction plate. 18 Friction plate distorted Yes Renew the friction plate. 19. Clutch diaphragm detective Yes Renew the cover plate 20 Internal or external clutch fluid leaks Yes Repair or renew as necessary 21 Friction plate sticking on splines Yes Free the friction plate 22. Oil on the friction plate 23 Friction plate distorted Yes Renew the friction plate Suspect a faulty cover plate or damaged flywheel Renew the friction plate and rectify the oil leak Suspect a faulty cover plate