Haynes Yamaha Xv V Twins Manual
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2A-6 Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models) 5.24 Support the engine with a jack and a block of wood 5.25a Remove the lower rear mounting bolt... 5.25b ... and the upper rear mounting bolts... 5.25c ... (theres an upper rear mounting bolt on each side of the engine) 5.25d Unbolt the front cylinder head bracket from the frame 5.25e Unbolt the rear cylinder head mounting brackets from the frame ... 5.25f ... (theres one on each side of the engine) 23 Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 8). 24 Support the engine with a jack and wood block (see illustration). Make sure the support is still in position under the swingarm pivot and that the bike is still securely braced. 25 Remove the engine mounting bolts at the lower rear of the crankcase, upper rear of the crankcase and at the top of each cylinder (see illustrations). 26 Disconnect both battery cables from the battery. Warning: Always disconnect the negative cable first and reconnect it last to prevent a battery explosion. 27 Make sure no wires or hoses are still attached to the engine assembly. Warning: The engine is heavy and may cause injury if it falls. Be sure its securely supported. Have an assistant help you steady the engine on the jack as you remove it. 28 Slowly and carefully lower the engine assembly to the floor, then guide it out from under the right side of the bike. Installation 29 Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the following points: a) Dont tighten any of the engine mounting bolts until they all have been installed. b) Use new gaskets at all exhaust pipe connections. c) Tighten the engine mounting bolts securely. d) Adjust the rear brake rod, clutch cable and throttle cable(s) following the procedures in Chapter 1 and Chapter 2. e) Be sure to refill the engine oil before starting the engine.
Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models) 2A-7 6.2a A selection of brushes is required for cleaning holes and passages in the engine components 6.2b Type HPG-1 Plastigage is needed to check the connecting rod oil clearances 6.3 An engine stand can be made from short lengths of lumber and lag bolts or nails 7.1 a Loosen the tensioner cap bolt with a socket or wrench, then unscrew it from the engine (if youre removing both tensioners at the same time, its a good idea to label them F for front and R for rear cylinder)... 7.1b ... then withdraw the cap bolt, sealing washer and spring 6 Engine disassembly and reassembly - general information Refer to illustrations 6,2a, 6.2b and 6.3 1 Before disassembling the engine, clean the exterior with a degreaser and rinse it with water. A clean engine will make the job easier and prevent the possibility of getting dirt into the internal areas of the engine. 2 In addition to the precision measuring tools mentioned earlier, you will need a torque wrench, a valve spring compressor, oil gallery brushes, a piston ring removal and installation tool, a piston ring compressor and a clutch holder tool (which is described in Section 16). Some new, clean engine oil of the correct grade and type, some engine assembly lube (or moly-based grease), a tube of Yamaha Quick Gasket (part no. 11001-05-01) or equivalent, and a tube of RTV (silicone) sealant will also be required. Although it may not be considered a tool, some Plastigage (type HPG-1) should also be obtained to use for checking connecting rod bearing oil clearances (see illustrations). 3 An engine support stand made from short lengths of lumber bolted together will facilitate the disassembly and reassembly procedures (see illustration). The perimeter of the mount should be just big enough to accommodate the crankcase when its laid on its side for removal of the crankshaft and transmission components. If you have an automotive-type engine stand, an adapter plate can be made from a piece of plate, some angle iron and some nuts and bolts. The adapter plate can be attached to the engine mounting bolt holes. 4 When disassembling the engine, keep mated parts together (including gears, cylinders, pistons, etc.) that have been in contact with each other during engine operation. These mated parts must be reused or replaced as an assembly. 5 Engine/transmission disassembly should be done in the following general order with reference to the appropriate Sections. Remove the cylinder heads Remove the camshafts Remove the rocker arms Remove the cylinders Remove the pistons Remove the idle gears Remove the clutch Remove the oil pump Remove the external shift mechanism Remove the middle driven gear Separate the crankcase halves Remove the crankshaft and connecting rods Remove the shift cam/forks Remove the transmission shafts/gears 6 Reassembly is accomplished by reversing the general disassembly sequence. 7 Camshaft chain tensioners - removal and installation Removal Refer to illustrations 7.1a, 7.1b, 7.2a and 7.2b Caution: Once you start to remove the tensioner bolts, you must remove the tensioner all the way and reset it before tightening the bolts. The tensioner extends and locks in place, so if you loosen the bolts partway and then retighten them, the tensioner or cam chain will be damaged. 1 Remove the tensioner cap bolt and spring while the tensioner is still installed on the engine (see illustrations).
2A-8 Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models) 7.2a Remove the tensioner Allen bolts , 7.2b ... and remove the tensioner and gasket from the engine 7.3 Tensioner details a) Cap bolt c) Spring b) Sealing washer d) Tensioner body 7.4 Lift the latch and compress the tensioner piston into the body 2 Remove the tensioner mounting bolts and take it off the engine (see illustrations). Installation Refer to illustrations 7.3 and 7.4 3 Check the sealing washer on the cap bolt for cracks or hardening (see illustration). Its a good idea to replace this washer whenever the tensioner cap is removed. 4 Release the one-way cam on the chain tensioner and compress the tensioner piston into the tensioner body (see illustration). 5 Turn the tensioner so the one-way cam is up and install the tensioner on the cylinder, using a new gasket (see illustration 7.2b). 6 Tighten the mounting bolts to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications. 7 Install the tensioner spring, sealing washer and cap. (see illustration 7.1b). Tighten the cap to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications. 8.3a Remove four nuts (arrows); the front of the engine is at the bottom of the illustration ... 8.3b ... and two washers (arrows), then lift off the engine mounting bracket... 8.3c ... and remove the four washers from beneath the bracket
Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models) 2A-9 8.4a Cylinder head and cylinder (XV535 models) - exploded view 1) Cylinder head side cover 2) Intake rocker arm cover 3) O-ring 4) Exhaust rocker arm cover 5) Spark plug 6) Oil baffle plate (rear cylinder only) 7) Gasket 8) Cylinder head (rear shown) 9) Cam sprocket cover 10) Long retainer bolt 11) Short retainer bolt 12) Lockwasher 13) Retainer 14) Dowel 15) Cylinder (rear shown) 8.4b Remove both Allen bolts ... 8.4c ... and take the cam sprocket cover off the cylinder head 8.4d Use a pointed tool to remove the O- ring from the cam sprocket cover ... C4e ... and on the rear cylinder, remove the oil baffle plate and its O-ring 8 Cylinder heads, camshafts and rocker arms - removal, inspection and installation Cylinder head removal Refer to illustrations 8.3a, 8.3b, 8.3c, 8.4a through 8.4e and 8.5 1 Remove the engine from the frame (see Section 5). 2 Remove the ignition coil mounting bracket and ignition coils from the rear cylinder (see Chapter 4). 3 Remove the engine mounting bracket, its washers and nuts from the front cylinder head (see illustrations). 4 Remove the Allen bolts and take off the cam sprocket cover (see illustrations). Stuff clean shop towels into the opening below the sprocket so nothing is accidentally dropped into it.
2A-10 Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models) 8.5 Unbolt the rocker arm covers and take them off, together with their O-rings 8.6a The line next to the T mark on the alternator rotor should be aligned with the notch in the timing window 8.6b The punch mark on the sprocket should be aligned with the arrowhead cast in the cylinder head (arrows) 8.9 Hold the crankshaft turning bolt with a socket and loosen the camshaft sprocket bolt with another socket or a box wrench (ring spanner) 8.11 The* oil baffle plate (arrow) is used on the rear cylinder only 8.12 Label the rear cylinders cam sprocket with an R, then slide it off - make sure the dowel doesnt fall out of the camshaft 8.13 Once the sprocket is removed, drape the cam chain over the camshaft 5 Remove the rocker arm covers and their O-rings from the exhaust side and intake side of the cylinder (see illustration). Rear cylinder Refer to illustrations 8.6a, 8.6b, 8.9, 8.11, 8.12, 8.13, 8.14a, 8.14b, 8.14c, 8.14d, 8.15a, 8.15b, 8.16a, 8.16b and 8.16c 6 Turn the engine so the rear cylinder is at top dead center on its compression stroke (see Valve clearance - adjustment in Chapter 1). When the rear cylinder is on its compression stroke, the line on the alternator rotor with a T mark next to it will be aligned with the notch in the timing window (see illustration). Also, the camshaft sprocket mark will be aligned with the mark inside the sprocket housing on the cylinder head (see illustration). 7 Remove the cam chain tensioner for the rear cylinder (see Sec- tion 7). 8 Place a piece of wire where you can reach it easily during the next steps. 9 Hold the engine from turning with a socket on the crankshaft turning bolt (see illustration). If the engine is in the frame, you can also keep it from turning by shifting the transmission into gear and having an assistant hold the rear brake on. 10 While you hold the engine from turning, loosen the camshaft sprocket bolt (see illustration 8.9). 11 Unscrew the sprocket bolt and remove the oil baffle plate (see illustration). 12 Label the sprocket R (for rear cylinder) and slide it off the camshaft (see illustration). Make sure the camshaft dowel doesnt fall out ofthe camshaft. 13 Drape the cam chain over the end of the camshaft (see illustration). At this point, the camshaft dowel should be aligned with the pointer cast in the cylinder head.
Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models) 2A-11 8.14a The cylinder heads are secured by two Allen bolts (arrows)... 8.14b ... and five nuts ... a) Allen bolts c) Nut (in spark plug well) b) Nuts 8.14c Use a socket and extension to remove the nut in the spark plug well.. . 8.14d ... and pull its washer out with a magnet 8.15a Lift the cylinder head off 8.15b If the head is stuck, tap it with a soft-faced mallet (dont tap against the cooling fins or theyll break) 8.16a There are three dowels, one with an O-ring (A) and two that fit around studs (B)... 14 Loosen the cylinder head nuts and bolts evenly in several stages (see illustrations). Remove the nuts, washer, bolts and engine mounting brackets. 15 Lift the cylinder head off the studs (see illustration). If its stuck, tap it gently with a rubber or plastic mallet, being careful not to break the cooling fins (see illustration). Dont pry against the gasket surfaces or they will be gouged. 16 Remove the O-ring, dowels and exhaust side chain damper (see illustrations). Tie up the cam chain with wire.
2A-12 Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models) 8.16b ... if theyre not in the cylinder, they may have remained in the head (arrow) 8.16c Lift out the exhaust side chain damper (arrow) 8.22a Flatten the lockwasher tabs with a hammer and chisel (take care not to strike the cylinder head)... 8.22b ... undo the retainer bolts ... 8.22c ... and remove the lockwasher 8.23a Pull the camshaft and bushing out of the head ... 8.23b ... and take the bushing off the camshaft 17 Check the cylinder head gasket and the mating surfaces on the cylinder head and block for leakage, which could indicate warpage. Refer to Section 10 and check the flatness of the cylinder head. 18 Clean all traces of old gasket material from the cylinder head and block. Be careful not to let any of the gasket material fall into the crankcase, the cylinder bores or the oil passages. Front cylinder 19 Repeat Steps 6 through 18 to remove the front cylinder head, noting that the front camshaft sprocket doesnt have an oil baffle and that the front engine mounting bracket was removed in Step 3. Camshaft removal Refer to illustrations 8.22a, 8.22b, 8.22c, 8.23a, 8.23b and 8.23c Note: You may need a 10 mm bolt for this procedure. 20 If you havent already done so, remove the rocker arm covers (see illustrations 8.4c and 8.5). 21 Loosen the rocker arm locknuts and back off the adjusters. 22 Flatten the tabs on the camshaft bolt lockwasher (see illustration). Remove the bolts, lockwasher and retainer (see illustrations). 23 Try to pull the camshaft out with fingers (see illustration). If it doesnt come easily, thread a 10 mm bolt into the end of the camshaft and use it as a handle to pull out the camshaft. Once the camshaft is out, remove the bushing (see illustrations). Rocker arm removal Refer to illustrations 8.25a, 8.25b, 8.26a, 8.26b, 8.26c and 8.27 24 Remove the camshaft (see Steps 20 through 23). 25 Remove the rocker arm shaft retaining bolts and sealing washers (see illustrations).
Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models) 2A-13 8.23c Camshaft, timing chain and valves (XV535 models) - exploded view 1) Valve adjuster locknut 2) Valve adjuster 3) Rocker arm shaft 4) Rocker arm 5) Valve keepers (collets) 6) Valve spring retainer 7) Valve springs 8) Oil seal 9) Valve spring seat 10) Valve 11) Camshaft 12) Camshaft bushing 13) Camshaft dowel 14) Cam sprocket 15) Oil baffle plate (rear cylinder only) 16) Cam chain tensioner 17) Cam chain damper (intake side) 18) Cam chain 19) Cam chain damper (exhaust side) 2A 8.25a Remove the rocker arm shaft retaining bolts . 8.25b ... and their sealing washers
2A-14 Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models) 8.26a A slide hammer like this one is the easiest way to remove the rocker shafts 8.26b Pull the shaft partway out. 8.26c ... then remove the rocker arm 8.27 Label the shafts according to cylinder (front or rear) and side (intake or exhaust) 8.29a Check the lobes of the camshaft for wear - heres a good example of damage which will require replacement (or repair) of the camshaft 8.29b Measure the height of the cam lobes with a micrometer 8.30 Measure the camshaft journal diameter with a micrometer and compare it to the diameter of the bushing or the bearing surface in the cylinder head 26 Thread a slide hammer into the end of the rocker shaft (see illustration). If you dont have one, use along bolt, a large flat washer and a short piece of pipe. Rap the pipe against the washer to pull the rocker shaft out of the rocker arm. Once the rocker shaft clears the rocker arm, take the rocker arm out (see illustrations). 27 Remove the remaining rocker shaft and arm, then label them according to cylinder and position (for example, rear intake and rear exhaust) (see illustration). Camshaft, chain and cam sprocket inspection Refer to illustrations 8.29a,. 8.29b, 8.30 and 8.32 Note: Before replacing camshafts because of damage, check with local machine shops specializing in motorcycle engine work. It may be possible for cam lobes to be welded, reground and hardened, at a cost far lower than that of a new camshaft. If the bearing surfaces in the cylinder head are damaged, it may be possible for them to be bored out to accept bearing inserts. Due to the cost of a new cylinder head it is recommended that all options be explored before condemning it as trash! 28 Inspect the cam bearing surfaces of the head. Look for score marks, deep scratches and evidence of spalling (a pitted appearance). 29 Check the camshaft lobes for heat discoloration (blue appearance), score marks, chipped areas, flat spots and spalling (see illustration). Measure the height of each lobe with a micrometer (see illustration) and compare the results to the minimum lobe height listed in this Chapters Specifications. If damage is noted or wear is excessive, the camshaft must be replaced. 30 Next, check the camshaft bearing oil clearances. Measure the outer diameter of the camshaft journals and the inner diameter of the bearing surface in the cylinder head and the camshaft bushing (see illustration). Subtract the journal diameter from the bearing or bushing bore diameter to obtain the clearance. If its greater than that listed in this Chapters Specifications, replace the cylinder head, bushing or camshaft, whichever is worn. 31 Check the visible portion of the cam chain for obvious wear or damage. Except in cases of oil starvation, the chain wears very little. If the chain has stretched excessively, which makes it difficult to maintain proper tension, replace it with a new one (see Section 17). 32 Check the cam sprockets for wear, cracks and other damage, replacing them if necessary (see illustration). If the sprockets are worn, the chain is also worn, and also the sprocket on the crankshaft (which can only be remedied by replacing the crankshaft). If wear this
Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models) 2A-15 8.32 Check the sprockets for wear and damage 8.34 Check rocker arms for wear on the adjuster surface, inside the bore and on the cam contact surface (arrows) 8.36 Hold the rocker arm in the installed position and install the shaft, using a bolt 8.40a Slide the camshaft into its bearing in the cylinder head ... 8.40b ... then install the bushing and align it as shown 8.41a Install the retainer... 8.41b ... and the lockwasher and bolts; the long bolt goes on the exhaust side and the short bolt on the intake side severe is apparent, the entire engine should be disassembled for inspection.- 13 Check the cam chain damper for wear or damage. If it is worn or damaged, the chain may be worn out or improperly adjusted. Refer to Section 17 for cam chain replacement. Rocker arm inspection Refer to illustration 8.34 34 Clean all of the components with solvent and pry them off. Blow though the oil passages in the rocker arms with compressed air, if available. Inspect the rocker arm faces for pits, spalling, score marks and rough spots (see illustration). Check the rocker arm-to-shaft contact areas and the adjusting screws, as well. Look for cracks in each rocker arm. If the faces of the rocker arms are damaged, the rocker arms and the camshafts should be replaced as a set. 35 Measure the diameter of the rocker arm shafts, in the area where the rocker arms ride, and the inside diameter of the rocker arms. Calculate the difference and compare the results with this Chapters Specifications. If the clearance is beyond the specified limits, replace them as a set. Rocker arm installation Refer to illustration 8.36 36 Coat the rocker shafts and the rocker arm bores with clean engine oil. Thread a bolt into the threads in the end of the exhaust rocker shaft to use as a handle. Position the exhaust rocker shaft partway into its hole with the threaded end facing out (see illustration). Install the exhaust rocker arm and slide the shaft into the rocker arm. Dont install the holding bolt yet. 37 Repeat Step 36 to install the intake rocker arm. Camshaft installation Refer to illustrations 8.40a, 8.40b, 8.41a, 8.41b, 8.42a, 8.42b and 8.42c 38 Apply a light coat of engine assembly lube or moly-based grease to the camshaft journals. Position the camshaft bushing on the camshaft. 39 Apply a light coat of engine assembly lube or moly-based grease to the cam lobes. 40 Slide the camshaft into the cylinder head, then install the bushing (see illustrations). Dont let the bushing tilt sideways and jam in its bore. Position the bushing cutout flush with the cylinder head and align the camshaft dowel with the timing mark (see illustration 8.13). 41 Install the retainer (see illustration). Install a new lockwasher and the retainer bolts (the exhaust side bolt is longer than the intake side bolt) (see illustration). Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this