Haynes Yamaha Xv V Twins Manual

							
8A-8 
Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models)

13.2 ... and from the drive unit on the left

fork leg 
13.4 Remove the speedometer mounting

nuts... 
13.5 ... and the mounting screws, then

detach the speedometer from the housing I

2 Note how its routed, then unscrew the speedometer cable from

the drive gear at the left front fork (see illustration).

Speedometer removal

Refer to illustrations 13.4 and 13.5

3 Disconnect the cable from the speedometer (see illustration

13.1).

4 Remove the Allen bolts and washers and detach the speedometer

housing bracket (see illustration).

5 Lift the speedometer away from the bracket and turn it over.

Remove the self-tapping screw and detach the speedometer from the

housing (see illustration). Follow the speedometer wiring harness to

its connector (inside a rubber cover below the speedometer) and

disconnect it.

Installation

6 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Be sure the

speedometer cable and wiring harness are routed so it doesnt cause

the steering to bind or interfere with other components. The squared-

off ends of the cable must fit into their spindles in the speedometer and

drive gear.

14 Instrument and warning light bulbs - replacement

Warning light bulbs

Refer to illustrations 14.1 and 14.3

1 The warning light bulbs are beneath a cover located behind and

beneath the handlebar (see illustration).

2 For access to the bulbs, remove the handlebar (see Chapter 5).

The cables, wiring and brake hoses can be left attached; just support

the handlebar so no components are strained.

3 Remove the screws and lift off the cover (see illustration).

Pull the bulb out and install a new one.

4 Install the cover and the handlebar. Tighten the handlebar

fasteners to the torque listed in the Chapter 5 Specifications.

Speedometer light bulb

Refer to illustrations 14.6a and 14.6b

5 Remove the speedometer from the housing (see Section 13).

6 Pull the rubber socket out of the back of the speedometer (see

illustration), then pull the bulb out of the socket (see illustration). If

the socket contacts are dirty or corroded, they should be scraped

clean and sprayed with electrical contact cleaner before new bulbs are

installed.

7 Carefully push the new bulb into position, then push the socket

into the speedometer. 
14.1 The warning lights are contained in this housing

14.3 With the handlebar removed, remove the cover screws

(arrows), lift off the cover and pull the bulb out of the socket 
						

							
Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models) 
8A-9

14.6a Pull the bulb socket out of the speedometer . 
14.6b ... and pull the bulb out of the socket

15.3a Continuity table for the ignition switch (US models) 
15.3b Continuity table for the ignition switch (UK models)

15 Ignition main (key) switch - check and replacement

Check

Refer to illustration 15.3

1 Lift the seat (single seat models) or remove the seat (dual seat

models) (see Chapter 7).

2 Follow the wiring harness from the ignition switch to the

connector and disconnect it.

3 Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity of the terminal pairs

indicated in the accompanying table (see illustrations). Continuity

should exist between the terminals connected by a solid line when the

switch is in the indicated position. Note: Connect the ohmmeter to the

switch side of the connector, not the wiring harness side.

4 If the switch fails any of the tests, replace it.

Replacement

Refer to illustration 15.6

5 Disconnect the electrical connector, if you havent already done

so. Free the wiring harness from any clips or retainers.

6 Remove the screws and separate the switch from the bracket

(see illustration). These are accessible from the right side of the

motorcycle with a ratchet handle, long extension, swivel and Phillips

screwdriver bit. If you dont have these tools, remove the battery and

battery case for access.

7 Attach the new switch to the bracket and tighten the screws

securely.

8 The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal

procedure. 
15.6 Remove the ignition main (key) switch mounting

screws (arrows)

16 Handlebar switches - check

Refer to illustration 16.4

1 Generally speaking, the switches are reliable and trouble-free.

Most troubles, when they do occur, are caused by dirty or corroded

contacts, but wear and breakage of internal parts is a possibility that 
						

							
8A-10

Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models)

should not be overlooked. If breakage does occur, the entire switch

and related wiring harness will have to be replaced with a new one,

since individual parts are not usually available.

2 The switches can be checked for continuity with an ohmmeter or

a continuity test light. Always disconnect the battery negative cable,

which will prevent the possibility of a short circuit, before making the

checks.

3 Trace the wiring harness of the switch in question and unplug the

electrical connectors.

4 Using the ohmmeter or test light, check for continuity between 
the terminals of the switch harness with the switch in the various

positions (see illustration). Continuity should exist between the

terminals connected by a solid line when the switch is in the indicated

position.

5 If the continuity check indicates a problem exists, refer to Section

17, remove the switch and spray the switch contacts with electrical

contact cleaner. If they are accessible, the contacts can be scraped

clean with a knife or polished with crocus cloth. If switch components

are damaged or broken, it will be obvious when the switch is

disassembled.

LIGHTSSwitch (UK)

LIGHTS (Dimmer) switch

HORN Switch

ENGINE STOP Switch

FUEL (Reserve) Switch 
TURN Switch

PASS Switch (UK)

START Switch

16.4 Continuity table for the handlebar switches 
						

							
Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models)

8A-11

17.1a The handlebar switches are held

together by screws (arrows); this is the

throttle side . . . 
17.1b ... the clutch side switches are also

held together by screws (arrows) 
17.1c Separate the switch halves for

access to the individual switches

18.5a Loosen the small screw (arrow) and disconnect the wire;

remove the three mounting screws ... 
18.5b ... and take the switch out of the engine; replace the O-

ring with a new one

17 Handlebar switches - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 17.1a, 17.1b and 17.1c

1 The handlebar switches are composed of two halves that clamp

around the bars. They are easily removed for cleaning or inspection by

taking out the clamp screws and pulling the switch halves away from

the handlebars (see illustrations).

2 To completely remove the switches, the electrical connectors in

the wiring harness should be unplugged.

3 When installing the switches, make sure the wiring harnesses are

properly routed to avoid pinching or stretching the wires.

18 Neutral switch - check and replacement

Check

1 Make sure the transmission is in neutral.

2 Remove the lower left frame cover (see Chapter 7). Locate the

switch harness (it has a single connector with sky blue wires), then

unplug the connector.

3 Connect the terminal in the harness side of theconnector to

ground/earth (bare metal on the motorcycle frame) with a short length

of wire.

a) If the light stays out, check the bulb and the wiring between the

ignition switch and neutral switch. 
b) If the neutral indicator light comes on, the neutral switch may be

bad. Connect an ohmmeter between the terminal in the switch

side of the connector and ground. Shift through the gears. The

ohmmeter should indicate continuity (low resistance) in neutral

and no continuity (infinite resistance) in all other gears. If not,

replace the neutral switch.

Replacement

Refer to illustrations 18.5a and 18.5b

4 Remove the alternator cover (see Section 28).

5 Loosen the small screw on the switch and detach the wire (see

illustration). Remove the switch mounting screws and detach the

switch from the crankcase (see illustration). Remove the O-ring and

install a new one.

6 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps.

19 Sidestand switch - check and replacement

Check

1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure.

2 . Follow the wiring harness from the switch to the connector, then

unplug the connector. Connect the leads of an ohmmeter to the wire

terminals. With the sidestand in the up position, there should be

continuity through the switch (little or no resistance). 
						

							
8A-12 
Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models)

19.5 Sidestand switch mounting screws 
20.4 Insert a pointed tool into the hole

(arrow), compress the prong and pull out

the clutch switch 
21.1 Disconnect the horn wires (A) and

remove the bracket bolt (B)

3 With the sidestand in the down position, the meter should

indicate infinite resistance.

4 If the switch fails either of these tests, replace it.

Replacement

Refer to illustration 19.5

5 With the sidestand in the up position, unscrew the two screws

and remove the switch (see illustration). Disconnect the switch

electrical connector.

6 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

20 Clutch switch - check and replacement

Check

1 Disconnect the electrical connector from the clutch switch.

2 Connect an ohmmeter between the terminals in the clutch switch.

With the clutch lever pulled in, the ohmmeter should show continuity

(little or no resistance). With the lever out, the ohmmeter should show

infinite resistance.

3 If the switch doesnt check out as described, leplace it.

Replacement

Refer to illustration 20.4

4 If you havent already done so. disconnect the wiring connector.

Insert a pointed tool into the mounting hole, compress the prong and

pull the switch out (see illustration).

5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

21 Horn - check and replacement

Check

Refer to illustration 21.1

1 Disconnect the electrical connectors from the horn (see

illustration). Using two jumper wires, apply^battery voltage directly to

the terminals on the horn. If the horn sounds, check the switch (see

Section 17) and the wiring between the switch and the horn (see the

wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter).

2 If the horn doesnt sound, replace it.

Replacement

3 Unbolt the horn bracket from the frame (see illustration 21.1) and

detach the electrical connectors. 
22.4 Disconnect the cable that runs to the starter

A Cable to starter

B Cable from battery positive terminal

C Two-wire connector

4 Unbolt the horn from the bracket and transfer the bracket to the

new horn.

5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

22 Starter relay - check and replacement

Refer to illustration 22.4

Check

1 Remove the seat (see Chapter 7). Disconnect the battery negative

cable.

2 Make sure the battery is fully charged and the relay wiring

connections are clean and tight. Corrosion can build up enough to

prevent current flow and still not be readily visible, so its best to

disconnect the cables from the terminals and give the cable ends and

terminal studs a thorough cleaning. Also disconnect the two-wire

connectors and clean the terminals.

3 Reconnect the wires to the starter relay.

4 Warning: Make sure the transmission is in neutral for this step.

Pull back the protective cover and disconnect the cable that runs from

the relay to the starter motor (see illustration). Connect a heavy-

gauge jumper wire (the same gauge or heavier than the starter relay 
						

							
Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models)

8A-13

23.2 Starting circuit cut-off relay test

1 Ohmmeter

2 Blue/white terminal

3 Blue/white terminal 
4 Red/white terminal (red/

black on 1994 models)

5 Black/yellow terminal

6 12-volt battery

cables) directly from the battery positive terminal to the disconnected

end of the cable. Warning: Make the connection at the battery first and

at the cable last; sparks are likely to occur, and if they occur near the

battery they could cause it to explode.

a) If the starter motor cranks, the problem is somewhere in the

starting circuit, possibly in the starter relay. Go to Step 5.

b) If the starter doesn t crank, remove and inspect it (see Sections 24

and 25).

5 If the starter cranks when the relay is bypassed, disconnect the

two-wire connector from the relay (see illustration 22.4). Connect a

jumper wire from the relay side of the red/white wire to the battery

positive terminal. Connect another jumper wire from the blue/white

wire to ground/earth (bare metal on the motorcycle frame).

a) If the relay clicks and the starter motor cranks, the relay is good.

Test the cut-off relay (see Section 23) and check the starter circuit

wiring for breaks or bad connections (see the Wiring diagrams at

the end of the book).

b) If the relay doesnt click, its probably bad. Replace it.

Replacement

6 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

7 Detach the battery positive cable, the starter cable and electrical

connector from the relay (see illustration 22.4).

8 Slide the relay off its mounting tabs.

9 Installation is the reverse of removal. Reconnect the negative

battery cable after all the other electrical connections are made.

23 Starting circuit cut-off relay - check and replacement

Check

Refer to illustration 23.2

1 Remove the right front side cover and locate the relay assembly

(see illustration 11.3).

2 Connect an ohmmeter between the terminals in the relay that

connect to the blue/white wires in the wiring harness (see illustration).

The ohmmeter should show infinite resistance. Note: The terminals in

the relay are very close together. Use thin probes to make the

ohmmeter connection.

3 Set the ohmmeter aside and connect a 12-volt battery between

the terminals for the black/yellow and red/white wires (black/yellow

and red/black on 1994 models) in the relay (see illustration 23.2). The 
24.2 Remove the nut and disconnect the cable

motorcycles battery will work if its charged. Note: The terminals

inside the relay are very close together. Use two wires with small

insulated alligator clips at each end to connect the relay terminals to

the battery. Make the last connection at the battery negative terminal.

4 Reconnect the ohmmeter probes to the terminals for the blue-

white wires. The ohmmeter should now show continuity (little or no

resistance).

5 Disconnect and reconnect the battery (detach and reattach the

alligator clip at the battery negative terminal). The ohmmeter should

show continuity whenever the battery is connected and no continuity

whenever its disconnected. If not, replace the relay assembly.

Replacement

6 Remove the right front side cover if you havent already done so

(see Chapter 7).

7 Disconnect the relay assemblys wiring connector (see

illustration 11.3). Slip the relay assembly off its mounting tabs.

8 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps.

24 Starter motor - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 24.2

Removal

1 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

2 Pull back the rubber cover, remove the nut retaining the starter

cable to the starter and disconnect the cable (see illustration).

3 Remove the starter mounting bolts.

4 Lift the end of the starter up a little bit and slide the starter out of

the engine case.

5 Check the condition of the. O-ring on the end of the starter and

replace it if necessary. Also check the starter pinion gear and the

driven gear inside the engine for chipped or worn teeth.

Installation

6 Apply a little engine oil to the O-ring and install the starter by

reversing the removal probedure. Tighten the starter mounting bolts to

the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications.

25 Starter motor - disassembly, inspection and

reassembly

1 Remove the starter motor (see Section 24). 
						

							
8A-14 
Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models)

25.2 Four-brush starter motor - exploded view

1 Through-bolt 6 Cable

2 Lockwasher 7 O-rings

3 Brush end cover 8 Starter housing

4 Brush plate 9 O-ring

5 Plastic brush housing 10 Armature 
25.5 Two-brush starter - exploded view

1 Cable 7 Washer

2 Terminal nuts and washers 8 O-ring

3 Brush end cover _, 9 Through-bolt

4 Brush plate 10 Armature

5 O-ring 11 Starter housing

6 Mounting bolt

Disassembly

Four-brush starter

Refer to illustration 25.2

2 Mark the position of the housing to each end cover. Remove the

two through-bolts and their lockwashers and detach both end covers

(see illustration).

3 Remove the nut and push the terminal bolt through the starter

housing, then reinstall the washers and nut on the bolt so you dont

forget how they go. Pull the armature out of the housing and remove

the brush plate.

4 Remove the two brashes with the plastic holder from the housing.

Two-brush starter

Refer to illustration 25.5

5 Mark the position of the housing to each end cover. Remove the

two through-bolts and detach both end covers (see illustration).

6 Remove the shims and brush plate from the brush housing after

the terminal bolt nut and washers have been removed - note he exact

order of the washers.

7 Pull the armature out of the housing (toward the pinion gear side).

Inspection

Refer to illustrations 25.8, 25.9, 25.10a, 25.10b, 25.11, 25.12 and

25.18

8 The parts of the starter motor that most likely will require attention

are the brushes. Measure the length of the brushes and compare the

results to the brush length listed in this Chapters Specifications (see

illustration). If any of the brushes are worn beyond the specified limits,

replace the brush holder assembly with a new one. If the brushes are

not worn excessively, cracked, chipped, or otherwise damaged, they

may be re-used.

9 Inspect the commutator (see illustration) for scoring, scratches 
25.8 Measure the length of the brushes and compare the length

of the shortest brush with the length listed in this Chapters

Specifications (four-brush starter shown; twp-brush

model similar)

and discoloration. The commutator can be cleaned and polished with

crocus cloth, but do not use sandpaper or emery paper. After cleaning

wipe away any residue with a cloth soaked in an electrical system

cleaner or denatured alcohol. Measure the commutator diameter and

compare it to the diameter listed in this Chapters Specifications. If it is

less than the service limit, the motor must be replaced with a new one

10 Using an ohmmeter or a continuity test light, check for continuity

between the commutator bars (see illustration). Continuity should

exist between each bar and all of the others. Also, check for con-

tinuity between the commutator bars and the armature shaft

(see illustration). There should be no continuity between the

commutator and the shaft. If the checks indicate otherwise, the 
						

							
Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models)

8A-15

25.9 Check the commutator for cracks

and discoloring, then measure the

diameter and compare it with the

minimum diameter listed in this

Chapters Specifications 
25.10a Continuity should exist between

the commutator bars 
25.10b There should be no continuity

between the commutator bars and the

armature shaft

25.11 There should be almost no

resistance (0 ohms) between the brushes

and the brush plate 
25.12 There should be no continuity

between the brush plate and the brush

holders (the resistance reading should

be infinite) 
25.18 Be sure the shims and washers

are in place on both ends of the

armature shaft

armature is defective.

11 Check for continuity between the brush plate and the brushes

(see illustration). The meter should read close to 0 ohms. If it doesnt,

the brush plate has an open and must be replaced.

12 Using the highest range on the ohmmeter, measure the resistance

between the brush holders and the brush plate (see illustration). The

reading should be infinite. If there is any reading at all, replace the

brush plate. <

13 Check the starter pinion gear for worn, cracked, chipped and

broken teeth. If the gear is damaged or worn, replace the starter motor.

Reassembly

Four-brush starter

14 Install the plastic brush holder into the housing. Make sure the

terminal bolt and washers are assembled in their original order. Tighten

the terminal nut securely.

15 Detach the brush springs from the brush plate (this will make

armature installation much easier). Install the brush plate into the

housing, routing the brush leads into the notches in the plate. Make

sure the tongue on the brush plate fits into the notch in the housing.

16 Install the brushes into their holders and slide the armature into

place. Install the brush springs.

Two-brush starter

17 Reinstall the brush plate in the end housing (see illustration

25.5). 
All models

18 Install any washers that were present on the end of the armature

shaft (see illustration).

19 Install the end covers, aligning the previously applied match

marks (be sure to install the large O-rings between the starter housing

and end covers). Install the O-rings and washers (if equipped) on the

two through-bolts, then install the through-bolts and tighten them

securely.

26 Charging system testing - general information and

precautions

1 If the performance of the charging system is suspect, the system

as a whole should be checked first, followed by testing of the individual

components (the alternator and the voltage regulator/rectifier). Note:

Before beginning the checks, make sure the battery is fully charged

and that all system connections are clean and tight.

2 Checking the output of the charging system and the performance

of the various components within the charging system requires the use

of special electrical test equipment. A voltmeter or a multimeter are the

absolute minimum tools required. In addition, an ohmmeter is generally

required for checking the remainder of the system.

3 When making the checks, follow the procedures carefully to

prevent incorrect connections or short circuits, as irreparable damage

to electrical system components may result if short circuits occur. 
						

							
8A-16 
Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models)

27.7 Measure stator coil resistance

between 1 and 2,1 and 3, then 2 and 3 
28.1a Remove the cover bolts (arrows)...

28.1b ... and pry gently at the pry points

(not between the gasket surfaces); there :

one at the bottom ...

28.1c ... and another at the top 
28.3 Be sure there are no metal fragments

stuck to the rotor magnets (arrow) 
28.4 Slip a new gasket over the

dowels (arrows)

Because of the special tools and expertise required, it is

recommended that the job of checking the charging system be left to a

dealer service department or a reputable motorcycle repair shop.

27 Charging system - output test

Refer to illustration 27.7

Caution: Never disconnect the battery cables from the battery while

the engine is running. If the battery is disconnected, the alternator and

regulator/rectifier will be damaged.

1 To check the charging system output, you will need a voltmeter or

a multimeter with a voltmeter function.

2 The battery must be fully charged (charge it from an external

source if necessary) and the engine must be at normal operating

temperature to obtain an accurate reading.

3 Attach the positive (red) voltmeter lead to the positive (+) battery

terminal and the negative (black) lead to the battery negative (-)

terminal. The voltmeter selector switch (if equipped) must be in a DC

volt range greater than 15 volts.

4 Start the engine.

5 The charging system output should be within the range listed in

this Chapters Specifications.

6 Follow the wiring harness from the upper side of the alternator

cover (on the left side of the engine) to the electrical connector and

disconnect the connector.

7 Connect an ohmmeter between each pair of terminals in the

connector (the side that runs back to the alternator, not the wiring

harness side) (see illustration). Note the reading. 
8 If the reading is not within the range listed in this Chapters

Specifications, replace the stator (see Section 28).

9 If the reading is within the Specifications, refer to the wiring

diagrams at the end of the book and check the charging circuit for

breaks or poor connections. If the wiring is good, replace the

regulator/rectifier (see Section 28).

28 Alternator cover, stator, rotor and regulator/rectifier -

removal and installation

Cover

Refer to illustrations 28.1a, 28.1b, 28.1c, 28.3, 28.4 and 28.5

1 Loosen the alternator cover mounting bolts evenly in a criss-cross

pattern and remove the cover (see illustrations).

2 Clean all traces of old gasket sealer from the cover and its mating

surface on the engine.

3 Make sure there are no metal particles stuck to the rotor magnets

(see illustration).

4 Position a new gasket over the dowels (see illustration).

5 Guide the wiring harnesses through the opening at the back of the

cover (see illustration). Install the cover and tighten the Allen bolts

evenly, in a criss-cross pattern, to the torque listed in this Chapters

Specifications.

Stator

Refer to illustration 28.7

6 Remove the alternator cover as described above. 
						

							
Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models)

8A-17

28.5 Guide the wiring harness out

through the back of the cover 
28.7 Remove the screws (A) to detach the

stator; the other screws (B) secure the

ignition pick-up coil and its wiring harness 
28.10 Loosen the rotor bolt with a socket,

then unscrew the bolt and remove

the washer

28.11a Use a tool like this one to

separate the rotor from the crankshaft. 
28.11 b ... then take the rotor off and lift

the Woodruff key (arrow) out of its slot 
28.11c If you remove the starter driven

gear, be sure to reinstall the thrust

washer behind it

7 Remove the stator screws and take the stator out (see

illustration).

8 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. Tighten the stator

screws securely.

Rotor

Refer to illustrations 28.10, 28.11a, 28.11b and 28.11c

9 Remove the alternator cover as described above.

10 Shift the transmission into gear and have an assistant apply the

rear brake. Remove the rotor bolt and washer (see illustration).

11 Thread a rotor puller such as Yamaha tool no. YM-01080 (part no.

90890-01080) into the rotor (see illustration). Remove the rotor from

the end of the crankshaft and take the Woodruff key out of its slot (see

illustration). If necessary, slide the starter driven gear off the

crankshaft and remove its thrust washer (see illustration).

12 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. Be sure to reinstall

the Woodruff key. Caution: Make sure no metal objects have stuck to

the magnets inside the rotor. Tighten the rotor bolt to the torque listed

in this Chapters Specifications.

Regulator/rectifier

Refer to illustration 28.13

13 On 1987 and 1988 models, the regulator/rectifier unit is mounted

on the rear underside of the frame (see illustration). On 1989 and later

models, it is retained to the inside of the finned cover, just to the rear of

the lower left frame cover.

14 Follow the wiring harness from the regulator/rectifier to the

connector. Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the

regulator/rectifier mounting screws. 
28.13 The regulator/rectifier on early models is mounted on the

lower rear portion of the frame

15 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. On later models,

one of the mounting screws secures a ground/earth wire.

29 Starter clutch - removal, inspection and installation

Refer to illustrations 29.3a, 29.3b and 29.6

1 Remove the alternator rotor (see Section 28) and turn it over. Pull

the starter idler gear and its shaft out of the engine case, then take the

large starter driven gear and its washer off the end of the crankshaft.