Haynes Yamaha Xv V Twins Manual

							
6A-6 
Chapter 6 Part A Brakes, wheels and tires (XV535 models)

5.5 Unscrew the banjo bolt (arrow);

theres a sealing washer on each side of

the fitting 
5.6 Remove the mounting bolts (arrows);

note the position of the UP mark, which

must be upright when the master cylinder

is installed 
5.7a Remove the locknut from the

lever pivot bolt...

Removal

5 Remove the wheel (see Section 11 for front wheel removal or

Section 12 for rear wheel removal). Caution: Dont lay the wheel down

and allow it to rest on the disc - the disc could become warped. Set the

wheel on wood blocks so the disc doesnt support the weight of the

wheel.

6 Mark the relationship of the disc to the wheel, so it can be

installed in the same position. Bend back the lockwasher tabs and

remove the bolts that retain the disc to the wheel (see illustration

2.3c). Loosen the bolts a little at a time, in a criss-cross pattern, to

avoid distorting the disc. Once all the bolts are loose, take the disc off.

7 Take note of any paper shims that may be present where the disc

mates to the wheel. If there are any, mark their position and be sure to

include them when installing the disc.

Installation

8 Position the disc on the wheel, aligning the previously applied

match marks (if youre reinstalling the original disc). Make sure the

arrow (stamped on the disc) marking the direction of rotation is

pointing in the proper direction.

9 Apply a non-hardening thread locking compound to the threads

of the bolts. Install the bolts with new lockwashers, tightening them a

little at a time, in a criss-cross pattern, until the torque listed in this

Chapters Specifications is reached. Clean off all grease from the

brake disc using acetone or brake system cleaner.

10 Install the wheel.

11 Operate the brake lever several times to bring the pads into

contact with the disc. Check the operation of the brakes carefully

before riding the motorcycle.

5 Front brake master cylinder - removal, overhaul and

installation

1 If the master cylinder is leaking fluid, or if the lever does not

produce a firm feel when the brake is applied, and bleeding the brakes

does not help, master cylinder overhaul is recommended. Before

disassembling the master cylinder, read through the entire procedure

and make sure that you have the correct rebuild kit. Also, you will need

some new, clean brake fluid of the recommended type, some clean

rags and internal snap-ring pliers. Note: To prevent damage to the

paint from spilled brake fluid, always cover the top cover or upper fuel

tank when working on the master cylinder.

2 Caution: Disassembly, overhaul and reassembly of the brake

master cylinder must be done in a spotlessly clean work area to avoid 
contamination and possible failure of the brake hydraulic system

components.

Removal

Refer to illustrations 5.5 and 5.6

3 Loosen but do not remove the screws holding the reservoir cover

in place (see illustration 3.2b).

4 Disconnect the electrical connectors from the brake light switch

(see Chapter 8).

5 Pull back the rubber boot (if equipped), loosen the banjo fitting

bolt (see illustration) and separate the brake hose from the maste

cylinder. Wrap the end of the hose in a clean rag and suspend the hose

in an upright position or bend it down carefully and place the open end

in a clean container. The objective is to prevent excessive loss of brake

fluid, fluid spills and system contamination.

6 Remove the master cylinder mounting bolts (see illustration) and

separate the master cylinder from the handlebar. Caution: Do not tip

the master cylinder upside down or brake fluid will run out.

Overhaul

Refer to illustrations 5.7a, 5.7b, 5.7c, 5.9, 5.10a and 5.10b

7 Remove the locknut and unscrew the brake lever pivot bolt (see

illustrations). Remove the lever and its return spring (see illustration).

8 Detach the top cover and the rubber diaphragm, then drain the

brake fluid into a suitable container. Remove the splash plate from the

bottom of the reservoir (if equipped), then wipe any remaining fluid out

of the reservoir with a clean rag.

9 Carefully remove the rubber dust boot from the end of the piston

(see illustration).

10 Using snap-ring pliers, remove the snap-ring (see illustration)

and slide out the piston assembly and the spring (see illustration). Lay

the parts out in the proper order to prevent confusion during

reassembly.

11 Clean all of the parts with brake system cleaner (available at

motorcycle dealerships and auto parts stores), isopropyl alcohol or

clean brake fluid. Caution: Do not, under any circumstances, use a

petroleum-based solvent to clean brake parts. If compressed air is

available, use it to dry the parts thoroughly (make sure its filtered and

unlubricated). Check the master cylinder bore for corrosion, scratches,

nicks and score marks. If damage is evident, the master cylinder must

be replaced with a new one. If the master cylinder is in poor condition,

then the calipers should be checked as well.

12 The dust seal, piston assembly and spring are included in the

rebuild kit. Use all of the new parts, regardless of the apparent

condition of the old ones.

13 Before reassembling the master cylinder, soak the piston and the 
						

							
Chapter 6 Part A Brakes, wheels and tires (XV535 models)

6A-7

5.7b ... and unscrew the bolt

5.7c Remove the lever spring

5.9 Remove the rubber boot

5.10a Remove the snap-ring from

the bore 
5.10b Piston component details

6.2a Remove the cotter pin and nut

and detach the brake rod from the

brake panel...

rubber cup seals in clean brake fluid for ten or fifteen minutes.

Lubricate the master cylinder bore with clean brake fluid, then carefully

insert the piston and related parts in the reverse order of disassembly.

Make sure the lips on the cup seals do not turn inside out when they

are slipped into the bore.

14 Depress the piston, then install the snap-ring (make sure the

snap-ring is properly seated in the groove). Install the rubber dust boot

(make sure the lip is seated properly in the piston groove).

Installation

15 Attach the master cylinder to the handlebar, making sure the UP

mark is upright, and tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this

Chapters Specifications.

16 Connect the brake hose to the master cylinder, using new sealing

washers. Tighten the banjo fitting bolt to the torque listed in this

Chapters Specifications. Fill the master cylinder with the

recommended brake fluid (see Chapter 1), then refer to Section 8 and

bleed the air from the system.

6 Rear drum brakes - removal, overhaul and installation

Shoe removal

Refer to illustrations 6.2a, 6.2b, 6.3, 6.4a and 6.4b

1 Before you start, inspect the rear brake wear indicator (see

Chapter 1). 
6.2b ... and from the swingarm

2 Disconnect the rear brake rod (see illustrations). Disconnect the

brake cable-from the lever (see Step 13). Remove the rear wheel (see

Section 12). 
						

							
6A-8 
Chapter 6 Part A Brakes, wheels and tires (XV535 models)

6.3 Remove the brake panel from

the wheel 
6.4a Fold the shoes in a V to release

spring tension, then remove them from

the panel 
6.4b Rear brake shoes and springs

6.8a Rear wheel and brake (XV535 models)

exploded view

1 Short spacer

2 Washer

3 Rear brake lever

4 Brake wear indicator

5 Brake panel

6 Brake cam

7 Brake shoes

8 Rear wheel bearing

9 Collar

10 Long spacer

11 Brake rod

12 Hub dust seal

13 Clutch hub 
						

							
Chapter 6 Part A Brakes, wheels and tires (XV535 models)

6A-9

6.8b Check the brake cam and pivot post (arrows) for wear

or damage 
6.12 The assembled brake panel should look like this

3 Lift the brake panel out of the wheel (see illustration).

4 Fold the shoes toward each other to release the spring tension

(see illustration). Remove the shoes and springs from the brake panel

(see illustration).

Shoe inspection

Refer to illustrations 6.8a and 6.8b

5 Check the linings for wear, damage and signs of contamination

from road dirt and water. If the linings are visibly defective, replace

them.

6 Measure the thickness of the lining material (just the lining

material, not the metal backing) and compare with the value listed in

this Chapters Specifications. Replace the shoes if the lining material is

worn to less than the minimum.

7 Check the ends of the shoes where they contact the brake cam

and pivot post. Replace the shoes if theres visible wear.

8 Check the brake cam and pivot post for wear and damage. If

necessary, make match marks on the cam and cam lever, then remove

the pinch bolt, lever, wear indicator pointer, seal and cam (see

illustrations).

9 Check the brake drum (inside the wheel) for wear or damage.

Measure the diameter at several points with a brake drum micrometer

(or have this done by a Yamaha dealer). If the measurements are

uneven (indicating the brake drum is out of round) or if there are

scratches deep enough to snag a fingernail, have the drum turned 
(skimmed) by a dealer to correct the surface. If the drum has to be

turned (skimmed) beyond the wear limit to remove the defects, replace

it.

10 Check the brake cam for looseness in the brake panel hole. If it

feels loose, replace the brake cam or panel, whichever is worn.

Shoe installation

Refer to illustration 6.12

11 Apply high-temperature brake grease to the ends of the springs,

the cam and the pivot post.

12 Hook the springs to the shoes. Position the shoes in a V on the

panel, then fold them down into position (see illustration 6.4a). Make

sure the ends of the shoes fit correctly against the cam and on the

pivot post (see illustration).

Rear brake cable and return spring removal and

installation

Refer to illustrations 6.13, 6.14 and 6.15

13 Push the brake lever forward and unscrew the adjuster nut (see

illustration).

14 Pull the cable forward, then slide it out of the slot to free it from

the swingarm bracket (see illustration).

15 Slide the cable out of the forward bracket (see illustration).

Remove the cotter pin and clevis pin and detach the cable from the

pedal arm.

6.13 Unscrew the adjusting nut from the

rear end of the brake cable 
6.14 Pull the cable forward, then slide it

through the slot in the swingarm bracket 
6.15 Slide the cable through the slot in

the forward bracket, then remove the

cotter pin and clevis pin (upper arrow) to

free it; unhook the brake pedal spring

from its post (lower arrow), then from

the pedal arm 
						

							
6 A-10 
Chapter 6 Part A Brakes, wheels and tires (XV535 models)

8.5 Place a box wrench (ring spanner)

over the bleed valve, then connect a

length of clear plastic tubing to the valve 
i.2 Measure wheel runout with a dial

indicator, if one is available

1 Radial (up-and-down) runout

2 Axial (side-to-side) runout 
11.3a Loosen the axle pinch bolt,

16 To remove the pedal spring, unhook it from its post, then from the

pedal arm.

17 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. Adjust the rear

brake (see Chapter 1).

7 Brake hose - inspection and replacement

Inspection

1 Once a week, or if the motorcycle is used less frequently, before

every ride, check the condition of the brake hose.

2 Twist and flex the rubber hoses (see illustration 3.2b) while

looking for cracks, bulges and seeping fluid. Check extra carefully

around the areas where the hoses connect with the banjo fittings, as

these are common areas for hose failure.

3 Inspect the metal banjo fittings connected to brake hoses. If the

fittings are rusted, scratched or cracked, replace them.

Replacement

4 The brake hose has a banjo fitting on each end of the hose. Cover

the surrounding area with plenty of rags and unscrew the union bolt on

either end of the hose. Detach the hose from any clips that may be

present (see illustration 3.2b) and remove the hose.

5 Position the new hose, making sure it isnt twisted or otherwise

strained, between the two components. Install the union bolts, using

new sealing washers on both sides of the fittings, and tighten them to

the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications.

6 Flush the old brake fluid from the system, refill the system with

the recommended fluid (see Chapter 1) and bleed the air from the

system (see Section 8). Check the operation of the front brake carefully

before riding the motorcycle.

8 Brake system bleeding

Refer to illustration 8.5

1 Bleeding the brake is simply the process of removing all the air

bubbles from the brake fluid reservoirs, the lines and the brake

calipers. Bleeding is necessary whenever a brake system hydraulic

connection is loosened, when a component or hose is replaced, or

when the master cylinder or caliper is overhauled. Leaks in the system

may also allow air to enter, but leaking brake fluid will reveal their

presence and warn you of the need for repair.

2 To bleed the brakes, you will need some new, clean brake fluid of

the recommended type (see Chapter 1), a length of clear vinyl or

plastic tubing, a small container partially filled with clean brake fluid, 
some rags and a wrench to fit the brake caliper bleeder valves.

3 Cover the top cover or upper fuel tank and other painted

components to prevent damage in the event that brake fluid is spilled.

4 Remove the reservoir cap or cover and slowly pump the brake

lever a few times, until no air bubbles can be seen floating up from the

holes at the bottom of the reservoir. Doing this bleeds the air from the

master cylinder end of the line. Reinstall the reservoir cap or cover.

5 Slip a box wrench (ring spanner) over the caliper bleed valve (see

illustration). Attach one end of the clear vinyl or plastic tubing to the

bleed valve and submerge the other end in the brake fluid in the

container.

6 Remove the reservoir cover and check the fluid level. Do not allow

the fluid level to drop below the lower mark during the bleeding

process.

7 Carefully pump the brake lever three or four times and hold it

while opening the caliper bleeder valve. When the valve is opened,

brake fluid will flow out of the caliper into the clear tubing and the lever

will move toward the handlebar.

8 Retighten the bleed valve, then release the brake lever gradually.

Repeat the process until no air bubbles are visible in the brake fluid

leaving the caliper and the lever-is firm when applied. Note: Remember

to add fluid to the reservoir as the level drops. Use only new, clean

brake fluid of the recommended type. Never re-use the fluid lost during

bleeding.

9 Replace the reservoir cover, wipe up any spilled brake fluid and

check the entire system for leaks. Note: If bleeding is difficult, it may

be necessary to let the brake fluid in the system stabilize for a few

hours (it may be aerated). Repeat the bleeding procedure when the tiny

bubbles in the system have settled out.

9 Wheels - inspection and repair

Refer to illustration 9.2

1 Clean the wheels thoroughly to remove mud and dirt that may

interfere with the inspection procedure or mask defects. Make a

general check of the wheels and tires as described in Chapter 1.

2 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure. Place a jack beneath the engine to raise the front wheel off

the ground, or beneath the frame to raise the rear wheel off the ground.

Attach a dial indicator to the fork slider or the swingarm and position

the stem against the side of the rim. Spin the wheel slowly and check

the side-to-side (axial) runout of the rim, then compare your readings

with the value listed in this Chapters Specifications (see illustration).

In order to accurately check radial runout with the dial indicator, the

wheel would have to be removed from the machine and the tire

removed from the wheel. With the axle clamped in a vise, the wheel 
						

							
Chapter 6 Part A Brakes, wheels and tires (XV535 models)

6A-11

11.3b ... and unscrew the axle

can be rotated to check the runout.

3 An easier, though slightly less accurate, method is to attach a stiff

wire pointer to the fork or the swingarm and position the end a fraction

of an inch from the wheel (where the wheel and tire join). If the wheel is

true, the distance from the pointer to the rim will be constant as the

wheel is rotated. Repeat the procedure to check the runout of the rear

wheel. Note: If wheel runout is excessive, refer to the appropriate

Section in this Chapter and check the wheel bearings very carefully

before replacing the wheel or paying to have it trued.

4 The wheels should also be visually inspected for cracks, flat spots

on the rim, bent spokes and other damage.

5 Tap the spokes with a metal screwdriver blade or similar tool and

listen to the sound. If the spoke makes a clunk or low-pitched sound,

its loose. Refer to Chapter 1 for spoke tightening procedures.

6 If damage is evident, or if runout in either direction is excessive,

the wheel will have to be trued or. if damage is severe, replaced with a

new one.

10 Wheels - alignment check

1 Misalignment of the wheels, which may be due to a cocked rear

wheel or a bent frame or triple clamps, can cause strange and possibly

serious handling problems. If the frame or triple clamps are at fault,

repair by a frame specialist or replacement with new parts are the only

alternatives.

2 To check the alignment you will need an assistant, a length of

string or a perfectly straight piece of wood and a ruler graduated in

1/64 inch increments. A plumb bob or other suitable weight will also be

required.

3 Support the motorcycle in a level position, then measure the

width of both tires at their widest points. Subtract the smaller

measurement from the larger measurement, then divide the difference

by two. The result is the amount of offset that should exist between the

front and rear tires on both sides.

4 If a string is used, have your assistant hold one end of it about half

way between the floor and the rear axle, touching the rear sidewall of

the tire.

5 Run the other end of the string forward and pull it tight so that it is

roughly parallel to the floor. Slowly bring the string into contact with the

front sidewall of the rear tire, then turn the front wheel until it is parallel

with the string. Measure the distance from the front tire sidewall to the

string.

6 Repeat the procedure on the other side of the motorcycle. The

distance from the front tire sidewall to the string should be equal on

both sides.

7 - As was previously pointed out, a perfectly straight length of wood

may be substituted for the string. The procedure is the same.

8 If the distance between the string and tire is greater on one side, 
11.4 Front wheel details (XV535 models)

1 Collar

2 Grease seal

3 Bearing

4 Hub cover

5 Spacer 
6 Spacer flange

7 Speedometer clutch

8 Speedometer clutch

retainer

9 Speedometer drive unit

or if the rear wheel appears to be cocked, refer to Chapter 5, Swingarm

bearings - check, and make sure the swingarm is tight.

9 If the front-to-back alignment is correct, the wheels still may be

out of alignment vertically.

10 Using the plumb bob, or other suitable weight, and a length of

string, check the rear wheel to make sure it is vertical. To do this, hold

the string against the tire upper sidewall and allow the weight to settle

just off the floor. When the string touches both the upper and lower tire

sidewalls and is perfectly straight, the wheel is vertical.

11 Once the rear wheel is vertical, check the front wheel in the same

manner. If both wheels are not perfectly vertical, the frame and/or

major suspension components are bent.

11 Front wheel - removal and installation

Removal

Refer to illustrations 11.3a, 11.3b, 11.4, 11.5a and 11.5b

1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure. Raise the front wheel off the ground by placing a floor jack,

with a wood block on the jack head, under the engine.

2 Disconnect the speedometer cable from the drive unit (see

Chapter 8).

3. Loosen the axle pinch bolt and unscrew the axle (see

illustrations).

4 Support the wheel, then pull out the axle (see illustration) and

carefully lower the wheel away from the forks. 
						

							
6A-12 
Chapter 6 Part A Brakes, wheels and tires (XV535 models)

11.5a Remove the collar from the

right side ... 
11.5b ... and the speedometer drive unit

from the left side 
11.8 Be sure the speedometer drive unit

notches align with the speedometer

clutch lugs (arrows)

12.3a Straighten the cotter pin and pull

it out... 
12.3b ... unscrew the axle nut. 
12.3c ... and remove the washer

12.4 Loosen the axle pinch bolt

5 Remove the collar from the right side and the speedometer drive

unit from the left side (see illustrations). Set the wheel aside. Caution:

Dont lay the wheel down and allow it to rest on the brake disc - the

disc could become warped. Set the wheel on wood blocks so the disc

doesnt support the weight of the wheel. Note: Dont operate the front

brake lever with the wheel removed.

Inspection

6 Roll the axle on a flat surface such as a piece of plate glass, If its

bent at all, replace it. If the axle is corroded, remove the corrosion with 
fine emery cloth.

7 Check the condition of the wheel bearings (see Section 13).

Installation

Refer to illustration 11.8

8 Installation is the reverse of removal. Apply a thin coat of grease

to the seal lip, then slide the axle into the hub. Slide the wheel

place. Make sure the lugs in the speedometer drive clutch line up .

the notches in the speedometer drive unit (see illustration). Make

the protrusion on the inner side of the left fork fits into the notch in the!

speedometer drive unit.

9 Slip the axle into place, then tighten the axle to the torque listed in

this Chapters Specifications. Tighten the axle pinch bolt to the torquej

listed in this Chapters Specifications.

10 Apply the front brake, pump the forks up and down several times

and check for binding and proper brake operation.

12 Rear wheel - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 12.3a, 12.3b, 12.3c, 12.4 and 12.5a through 12.5e

Removal

1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure.

2 Detach the rear brake rod from the brake panel and the cabtel

from the brake lever (see Section 6).

3 Remove the cotter pin from the axle nut, then remove the nut andl

washer (see illustrations). 
						

							
Chapter 6 Part A Brakes, wheels and tires (XV535 models)

6A-13

12.5a Pull the axle out. . . 
12.5b ... remove the washer ... 
12.5c ... and the short spacer

12.5d Separate the wheel from the

final drive . . . 
12.5e ... and remove the long spacer 
12.8 Be sure the long spacer is in place

before installing the wheel

13.3 Pry out the grease seal on the brake disc side of the wheel

4 Loosen the axle pinch bolt (see illustration).

5 Support the wheel, slide the axle out and remove the washer and

short spacer (see illustrations). Pull the wheel to the right and remove

it from the final drive assembly, then remove the long spacer (see

illustrations 6.8b and the accompanying illustrations).

6 Before installing the wheel, check the axle for straightness by

rolling it on a flat surface such as a piece of plate glass (if the axle is

corroded, first remove the corrosion with fine emery cloth). If the axle is

bent at all, replace it.

7 Check the condition of the wheel bearings (see Section 13).

Installation

Refer to illustration 12.8

8 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps, with the following 
additions:

a) Apply a light coat of multi-purpose lithium-based grease to the

lips of the oil seals and to the splines on the final drive and wheel

hub.

b) Be sure the long spacer is in place before installing the wheel (see

illustration).

c) Tighten the axle nut to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifi-

cations. Install a new cotter pin, tightening the axle nut an

additional amount, if necessary, to align the hole in the axle with

the castellations on the nut.

d) Tighten the axle pinch bolt to the torque listed in this Chapters

Specifications.

9 Adjust the bear brake (see Chapter 1) and check its operation

carefully before riding the motorcycle.

13 Wheel bearings - inspection and maintenance

1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure and remove the wheel. See Section 11 (front wheel) or 12

(rear wheel).

2 Set the wheel on blocks so as not to allow the weight of the wheel

to rest on the brake disc or hub.

Front wheel bearings

Refer to illustrations 13.3, 13.4a, 13.4b, 13.4c, 13.4d, 13.5, 13.6, 13.7,

13.10a, 13.10b, 13.10c, 13.11a, 13.11b, 13.12a, 13.12b and 13.12c

3 From the right side of the wheel, lift out the collar (if you havent

already done so - see illustrations 11.4 and 11.5a), then pry out the

grease sea! (see illustration). 
						

							
6A-14 
Chapter 6 Part A Brakes, wheels and tires (XV535 models)

13.4a Pry the grease seal loose ... 
13.4b ... and lift it out 
13.4c Lift out the speedometer

clutch retainer ...

13.4d ... and the speedometer clutch 
13.5 Drive out the opposite bearing with a

long rod 
13.6 Lift out the spacer

13.7 Drive out the remaining bearing 
13.10a Drive in the bearing with a

socket or bearing driver that contacts the

outer race ... 
13.10b The installed bearing should loc

like this

4 From the left side of the wheel, lift out the speedometer drive unit

(if you havent already done so - see illustration 11.5b), then pry out

the grease seal (see illustration). Lift out the speedometer clutch

retainer and speedometer clutch (see illustrations).

5 Using a metal rod (preferably a brass drift punch) inserted through

the center of the hub bearing, tap evenly around the inner race of the

opposite bearing to drive it from the hub (see illustration).

6 Turn the wheel over and remove the bearing spacer (see

illustration).

7 Turn the wheel back over and remove the remaining bearing using 
the same technique (see illustration).

8 Clean the bearings with a high flash-point solvent (one which

wont leave any residue) and blow them dry with compressed air (dont

let the bearing spin as you dry them). Apply a few drops of oil to the

bearing. Hold the outer race of the bearing and rotate the inner race - if

the bearing doesnt turn smoothly, has rough spots or is noisy, replace

it with a new one.

9 If the bearing checks out okay and will be re-used, wash it in

solvent once again and dry it, then pack the bearing with high-quality

bearing grease. 
						

							
Chapter 6 Part A Brakes, wheels and tires (XV535 models)

6A-15

13.10c Install the grease seal with its

closed side out 
13.11a Install the spacer

13.11b Drive in the remaining bearing

13.12a Install the speedometer clutch ...

13.12b ... and its retainer 
13.12c Install the remaining grease seal

10 Thoroughly clean the hub area of the wheel. Install the bearing

into the recess in the hub, with the marked or sealed side facing out.

Using a bearing driver or a socket large enough to contact the outer

race of the bearing, drive it in (see illustration) until its completely

seated (see illustration). Install a new grease seal on top of the

bearings with its closed side out (see illustration). It should be

possible to push the seal in with even finger pressure, but if necessary

use a seal driver, large socket or a flat piece of wood to drive the seal

into place.

11 Turn the wheel over and install the bearing spacer and bearing,

driving the bearing into place as described in Step 10 (see

illustrations).

12 Install the speedometer clutch and retainer on the left side of the

wheel, then install the grease seal (see illustrations).

13 Install the speedometer drive unit, making sure the lugs in the

speedometer clutch align with the notches in the gear (see illustra-

tion 11.8).

14 Clean off all grease from the brake disc using acetone or brake

system cleaner.

15 Make sure the collar is in place (see illustration 11.5a) and install

the wheel.

Rear wheel bearings

Refer to illustrations 13.16a through 13.161

16 If necessary for inspection, the dust seal and clutch hub can be

detached from the wheel (see illustration 6.8b and the accompany-

ing illustrations). The rear wheel bearings can be removed and

installed with these parts in place. 
13.16a The dust seal is secured by four screws and the clutch

hub by five bolts

17 Rear wheel bearing removal, inspection and installation are

generally the same as for front wheel bearings (see Steps 5 through 11

above and the accompanying illustrations). On installation, be sure to

install the spacer and its collar between the bearings. Apply non-

permanent thread locking agent to the threads of the clutch hub bolts

and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications.