Haynes Yamaha Xv V Twins Manual
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6B-8 Chapter 6 Part B Brakes, wheels and tires (XV700-1100 models) 3.2a Remove the union bolt (arrow); this type of caliper is used on 1981 through 1983 shaft drive models ... 3.2b ... and this type is used on 1984 and later models (except 1994 UK) 3.3a If youre working on a 1981 through 1983 XV750, an XV920K or an XV920 MK, remove the nut and washer ... 3.3b . .. and slide the caliper off the pivot post 3.4 Remove the caliper mounting bolts and detach the caliper from the fork 4.3 Set up a dial indicator (1) to measure runout of the brake disc(s) (2) Removal Refer to illustrations 3.2a, 3.2b, 3.3a, 3.3b and 3.4 1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this procedure. 2 Remove the union bolt from the brake hose banjo fitting and separate the hose from the caliper (see illustrations). Discard the sealing washers. Place the end of the hose in a container and operate the brake lever to pump out the fluid. Once this is done, wrap a clean shop rag tightly around the hose fitting to soak up any drips and prevent contamination. 3 If youre working on a 1981 through 1983 XV750, an XV920K, or an XV920MK, remove the nut and lockwasher from the top of the caliper, then slide the caliper down out of the bracket in the fork leg (see illustrations). 4 On all other models, unscrew the caliper mounting bolts and separate the caliper from the front fork (see illustration). Overhaul 5 Clean the exterior of the caliper with denatured alcohol or brake system cleaner. 6 Place a few rags between the piston and the caliper frame to act as a cushion, then use compressed air, directed into the fluid inlet, to remove the piston(s) (see illustration 2.3c in Part A of this Chapter and illustrations 2.3b, 2.5b, 2.7, 2.9b and 2.11). Use only enough air pressure to ease the piston out of the bore. If a piston is blown out, even with the cushion in place, it may be damaged. Warning: Never place your fingers in front of the piston in an attempt to catch orprotec: it when applying compressed air, as serious injury could occur. 7 If compressed air isnt available, reconnect the caliper to the brake hose and pump the brake lever until the piston is free. 8 Using a wood or plastic tool, remove the dust seal. Metal tools may damage the bore. 9 Using a wood or plastic tool, remove the piston seal from the groove in the caliper bore. 10 Clean the piston and the bore with denatured alcohol, clean brake fluid or brake system cleaner and blow dry them with filtered, unlubricated compressed air. Inspect the surfaces of the piston for nicks and burrs and loss of plating. Check the caliper bore, too. If surface defects are present, the caliper must be replaced. If the caliper is in bad shape, the master cylinder should also be checked. 11 Lubricate the piston seal with clean brake fluid and install it in its j groove in the caliper bore. Make sure it isnt twisted and sea:s completely. 12 Lubricate the dust seal with clean brake fluid and install it in its groove, making sure it seats correctly. 13 Lubricate the piston with clean brake fluid and install it into the caliper bore. Using your thumbs, push the piston all the way in, making sure it doesnt get cocked in the bore. 14 On bracket-mounted calipers, the caliper body should be able to slide in relation to its mounting bracket. If its seized or stiff - operation, lubricate the friction points or slide pins with hig^- temperature disc brake grease. If the dust boots are split or crackec. replace them with new ones.
Chapter 6 Part B Brakes, wheels and tires (XV700-1100 models) 6B-9 Installation 15 Install the caliper, tightening the mounting bolts or nut to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications. 16 Connect the brake hose to the caliper, using new sealing washers on each side of the fitting. The neck of the hose union should fit between the two cast lugs on the caliper body. Tighten the banjo fitting bolt to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications. 17 Fill the master cylinder with the recommended brake fluid (see Chapter 1) and bleed the system (see Section 8). Check for leaks. 18 Check the operation of the brakes carefully before riding the motorcycle. 4 Brake disc - inspection, removal and installation Inspection Refer to illustration 4.3 1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this procedure. 2 Visually inspect the surface of the disc for score marks and other damage. Light scratches are normal after use and wont affect brake operation, but deep grooves and heavy score marks will reduce braking efficiency and accelerate pad wear. If the disc is badly grooved it must be machined or replaced. 3 To check disc runout, mount a dial indicator to the fork leg with the plunger on the indicator touching the surface of the disc about 1/2- inch from the outer edge (see illustration). Slowly turn the wheel and watch the indicator needle, comparing your reading with the limit listed in this Chapters Specifications or stamped on the disc itself. If the runout is greater than allowed, check the hub bearings for play (see Chapter 1). If the bearings are worn, replace them and repeat this check. If the disc runout is still excessive, it will have to be replaced. 4 The disc must not be machined or allowed to wear down to a thickness less than the minimum allowable thickness, listed in this Chapters Specifications. The thickness of the disc can be checked with a micrometer. If the thickness of the disc is less than the minimum allowable, it must be replaced. Removal 5 Remove the wheel (see Section 11 for front wheel removal or Section 12 for rear wheel removal). Caution: Dont lay the wheel down and allow it to rest on the disc - the disc could become warped. Set the wheel on wood blocks so the disc doesnt support the weight of the wheel. 6 Mark the relationship of the disc to the wheel, so it can be installed in the same position. Bend back the lockwasher tabs (1981 through 1983 models) and remove the bolts that retain the disc to the wheel (see illustration 2.3b, 2.5b, 2.7, 2.9b or 2.11). Loosen the bolts a little at a time, in a criss-cross pattern, to avoid distorting the disc. Once all the bolts are loose, take the disc off. 7 Take note of any paper shims that may be present where the disc mates to the wheel. If there are any, mark their position and be sure to include them when installing the disc. Installation 8 Position the disc on the wheel, aligning the previously applied matchmarks (if youre reinstalling the original disc). Make sure the arrow (stamped on the disc) marking the direction of rotation is pointing in the proper direction. 9 Apply a non-hardening thread locking compound to the threads of the bolts. Install the bolts with (use new lockwashers on 1981 through 1983 models), tightening them a little at a time, in a criss-cross pattern, until the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications is reached. Clean off all grease from the brake disc using acetone or brake system cleaner. 10 Install the wheel. 11 Operate the brake lever several times to bring the pads into contact with the disc. Check the operation of the brakes carefully before riding the motorcycle. 5.3a Master cylinder (1981 through 1983 XV750, XV920K and XV920MK models) - exploded view 1 Master cylinder body 8 Lockwashers 2 Piston assembly • 9 Ring (XV750 only) 3 Diaphragm 10 Brake hose 4 Reservoir cover 11 Rubber boot 5 Screws . 12 Union bolt 6 Handlebar clamp . 13 Sealing washers 7 Bolts 14 Hose guide 5 Front brake master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation 1 If the master cylinder is leaking fluid, or if the lever does not produce a firm feel when the brake is applied, and bleeding the brakes does not help, master cylinder overhaul is recommended. Before disassembling the master cylinder, read through the entire procedure and make sure that you have the correct rebuild kit. Also, you will need some new, clean brake fluid of the recommended type, some clean rags and internal snap-ring pliers. Note: To prevent damage to the paint from spilled brake fluid, always cover the fuel tank when working on the master cylinder. 2 Caution: Disassembly, overhaul and reassembly of the brake master cylinder must be done in a spotlessly clean work area to avoid contamination and possible failure of the brake hydraulic system components. Removal Refer to illustrations 5.3a, 5.3b and 5.3c 3 Loosen but do not remove the screws holding the reservoir cover in place (see the accompanying illustrations, illustration 2.9b or illustration 2.11).
6B-10 Chapter 6 Part B Brakes, wheels and tires (XV700-1100 models) 5.3b Master cylinder (chain drive XV920 and TR1 models) exploded view 1 Sealing washers 9 Handlebar clamp 2 Union bolts 10 Bolts 3 Hose joint 11 Lockwashers 4 Piston assembly 12 Master cylinder body 5 Hose guides 13 Diaphragm 6 Bolt 14 Reservoir cover 7 Rubber boot 15 Screws 8 Master cylinder assembly 5.3c Master cylinder (XV920J models) - exploded view 1 Master cylinder body 9 Bolts 2 Piston assembly 10 Rubber boot 3 Sensor unit 11 Union bolts 4 Diaphragm 12 Sealing washers 5 Reservoir cover 13 Hose joint 6 Screws 14 Bolt 7 Handlebar clamp 15 Hose guides 8 Lockwashers 4 Disconnect the electrical connectors from the brake light switch (see Chapter 8). 5 Pull back the rubber boot (if equipped), loosen the banjo fitting bolt and separate the brake hose from the master cylinder. Wrap the end of the hose in a clean rag and suspend the hose in an upright position or bend it down carefully and place the open end in a clean container. The objective is to prevent excessive loss of brake fluid, fluid spills and system contamination. 6 Remove the master cylinder mounting bolts and separate the master cylinder from the handlebar. Caution: Do not tip the master cylinder upside down or brake fluid will run out. Overhaul 7 This is the same as for XV535 models. Refer to Part A of this Chapter and illustration 2.9b, 2.11, 5.3a, 5.3b or 5.3c. Installation 8 Attach the master cylinder to the handlebar, making sure the UP mark is upright, and tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications. 9 Connect the brake hose to the master cylinder, using new sealing washers. Tighten the banjo fitting bolt to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications. Fill the master cylinder with the recommended brake fluid (see Chapter 1), then refer to Section 8 and bleed the air from the system. 6 Rear drum brakes - removal, overhaul and installation Shoe removal Refer to illustrations 6.4, 6.5a, 6.5b and 6.5c 1 Before you start, inspect the rear brake wear indicator (sea Chapter 1). 2 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this procedure. 3 Remove the rear wheel (see Section 12). 4 Lift the brake panel out of the wheel (see illustration). 5 Fold the shoes toward each other to release the spring tension (see illustration). Remove the shoes and springs from the brake panel (see illustrations).
Chapter 6 Part B Brakes, wheels and tires (XV700-1100 models) 6B-11 6.4 Lift the rear brake panel out of the wheel 6.5a Fold the shoes together to detach them from the brake panel 6.5b Rear wheel and brake details (shaft drive models) 1 Rear wheel 2 Dust seal 3 Screw and washer 4 Drive pinion 5 Bolts 6 O-ring 7 Left wheel bearing 8 Left wheel bearing 9 Washer 10 Cotter pin 11. Castellated nut 12 Axle 13 Washer 14 Brake lever 15 Pinch bolt 16 Wear indicator plate 17 Brake panel 18 Brake shoe 19 Return spring 20 Brake cam 21 Washer 22 Right wheel bearing 23 Washer 24 Spacer 25 Torque link 26 Bolts 27 Washers 28 Lockwashers 29 Nuts 30 Cotter pin
6B-12 Chapter 6 Part B Brakes, wheels and tires (XV700-1100 models) 6.5c Rear wheel and brake details (shaft drive models) 1 Rear wheel 2 O-ring 3 Left wheel bearing 4 Coupling (cush drive) damper 5 Coupling 6 Sprocket 7 Drive chain 8 Sprocket stud 9 Lockwasher 10 Nut 11 Coupling bearing 12 Left spacer 13 Oil seal 14 Snap-ring 15 Chain adjuster 16 Locknut 17 Adjusting bolt 18 Washer 19 Castellated nut 20 Axle 21 Cotter pin 22 Right spacer 23 Brake panel 24 Brake cam 25 Washer 26 Brake lever 27 Pinch bolt 28 Wear indicator plate 29 Brake shoes 30 Return springs 31 Right bearing 32 Spacer 33 Torque link 34 Bolt 35 Washer 36 Lockwasher 37 Nut 38 Cotter pin Shoe inspection Refer to illustrations 6.8a, 6.8b and 6.8c 5 Check the linings for wear, damage and signs of contamination from road dirt and water. If the linings are visibly defective, replace them. 6 Measure the thickness of the lining material (just the lining material, not the metal backing) and compare with the value listed in this Chapters Specifications. Replace the shoes if the lining material is worn to less than the minimum. 7 Check the ends of the shoes where they contact the brake cam and pivot post. Replace the shoes if theres visible wear. 8 Check the brake cam and pivot post for wear and damage. If necessary, make match marks on the cam and cam lever, then remove the pinch bolt, lever, wear indicator pointer, seal and cam (see illustrations). 9 Check the brake drum (inside the wheel) for wear or damage Measure the diameter at several points with a brake drum micrometer for have this done by a Yamaha dealer). If the measurements are uneven (indicating the brake drum is out of round) or if there are scratches deep enough to snag a fingernail, have the drum turned (skimmed) by a dealer to correct the surface. If the drum has to be turned (skimmed) beyond the wear limit to removethe defects, replace it.
Chapter 6 Part B Brakes, wheels and tires (XV700-1100 models) 6B-13 6.8a Loosen the pinch bolt and remove the brake lever. . . 6.8b ... remove the wear indicator pointer ... 6.8c ... and withdraw the cam from the brake panel 6.16 Note the position of the alignment marks (A), unhook the brake light switch spring (B) and loosen the pinch bolt (C) 7.2 Remove the union bolts (A); note the position of the banjo fitting neck next to the cast lug (B) 10 Check the brake cam for looseness in the brake panel hole. If it feels loose, replace the brake cam or panel, whichever is worn. 11 Reverse Step 8 to install the brake lever and cam. Shoe installation 12 Apply high-temperature brake grease to the ends of the springs, the cam and the pivot post. 13 Hook the springs to the shoes. Position the shoes in a V on the panel, then fold them down into position (see illustration 6.5a). Make sure the ends of the shoes fit correctly against the cam and on the pivot post (see illustration 6.4). Rear brake pedal removal and installation Refer to illustration 6.16 14 Remove the cotter pin and clevis pin and detach the brake rod from the pedal arm. Unhook the pedal return spring. 15 Look for match marks on the pedal and shaft. If they arent there, make your own. 16 Unhook the brake light switch spring from the pedal (see illustration). Loosen the pedal pinch bolt and slide the pedal off the shaft. 17 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. Adjust the rear brake (see Chapter 1). 7 Brake hoses - inspection and replacement Inspection Refer to illustration 7.2 1 Once a week, or if the motorcycle is used less frequently, before every ride, check the condition of the brake hose. 2 Twist and flex the rubber hose(s) (see illustration 2.9b, 2.11, 5.3a, 5.3b or 5.3c) while looking for cracks, bulges and seeping fluid. Check extra carefully around the areas where the hoses connect with the banjo fittings, as these are common areas for hose failure (see illustration). 3 Inspect the metal banjo fittings connected to brake hoses. If the fittings are rusted, scratched or cracked, replace them. Replacement 4 Brake hoses have a banjo fitting on each end. Cover the surrounding area with plenty of rags and unscrew the union bolt on either end of the hose. Detach the hose from any clips that may be present and remove the hose. 5 Position the new hose, making sure it isnt twisted or otherwise strained, between the two components. Make sure the neck of the hose union fits between the two cast lugs on the caliper body or on the clockwise side of the cast lug in the hose joint (see illustration 7.2). Install the union bolts, using new sealing washers on both sides of the fittings, and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifi- cations. 6 Flush the old brake fluid from the system, refill the system with the recommended fluid (see Chapter 1) and bleed the air from the system (see Section 8). Check the operation of the front brake carefully before riding the motorcycle.
6B-14 Chapter 6 Part B Brakes, wheels and tires (XV700-1100 models) 11.3a Front wheel (1981 through 1983 shaft drive models) 1 Front wheel 2 Axle 3 Collar 4 Grease seal 5 Right bearing 6 Spacer 7 Hub trim (except XV920J) 8 Flanged spacer 9 Left bearing 10 Speedometer clutch 11 Retaining ring 12 Grease seal 13 Speedometer drive unit 14 Washer 15 Castellated nut 16 Cotter pin 11.3b Front wheel details (1981 through 1983 chain drive models) 1 Front wheel 2 Center spacer 3 Right bearing 4 Grease seal 5 Collar 6 Washer 7 Castellated nut 8 Cotter pin 9 Flanged spacer 10 Right bearing 11 Speedometer clutch 12 Retaining ring 13 Grease seal 14 Washer (TR1 only) 15 Speedometer drive unit 16 Axle
Chapter 6 Part B Brakes, wheels and tires (XV700-1100 models) 6B-15 8 Brake system bleeding This is the same as for XV535 models. Refer to Part A of this Chapter. 9 Wheels - inspection and repair 1 For models equipped with wire spoke wheels, this is the same as for XV535 models. Refer to Part A of this Chapter. 2 Wheel runout for alloy wheels is measured in the same way as for wire spoke wheels (refer to Part A of this Chapter). Alloy wheels with excessive runout must be replaced with new ones. 2 Since models equipped with alloy wheels usetubeless tires, look very closely for dents in the area where the tire bead contacts the rim. Dents in this area may prevent complete sealing of the tire against the rim, which leads to deflation of the tire over a period of time. If damage is evident, the wheel will have to be replaced with a new one. 10 Wheels - alignment check This is the same as for XV535 models. Refer to Part A of this Chapter. 11 Front wheel - removal and installation Removal Refer to illustrations 11.3a, 11.3b, 11.3c, 11.4a, 11.4b, 11.5a and 11.5b 1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this procedure. Raise the front wheel off the ground by placing a floor jack, with a wood block on the jack head, under the engine. 2 Disconnect the speedometer cable from the drive unit (see Chapter 8). 3 The axle on early models is secured by a nut. Remove the cotter pin and unscrew the nut (see illustrations). The axle on later models 11.3c Front wheel details (1984 and later models) - wire wheel shown 1 Axle 2 Collar 3 Grease seal 4 Wheel bearing 5 Spacer 6 Speedometer drive unit 7 Washer (early models) 8 Cotter pin (early models) 9 Castellated nut (early models)
6B-16 Chapter 6 Part B Brakes, wheels and tires (XV700-1100 models) 11.4a Remove the nut and pinch bolt; if the axle has a round head like this one, insert a bar through the removal hole and pull it out... 11.4b ... if the axle has a hex head like this one, unscrew it 11.5a Remove the collar. 11.5b ... and the speedometer drive unit 11.8a Make sure the dogs on the speedometer clutch ... 11.8b ... engage the slots in the drive unit threads directly into the left fork leg. 4 Support the wheel. Loosen the axle pinch bolt. If the axle has a round head (see illustration), slip a bar through the removal hole and twist and pull the axle to remove it. If the axle has a hex head, unscrew the axle (see illustration). 5 Carefully lower the wheel away from the forks. Remove the collar from the right side and the speedometer drive unit from the left side (see illustrations). Set the wheel aside. Caution: Dont lay the wheel down and allow it to rest on the brake disc - the disc could become warped. Set the wheel on wood blocks so the disc doesnt support the weight of the wheel. Note: Dont operate the front brake lever with the wheel removed. Inspection 6 Roll the axle on a flat surface such as a piece of plate glass. If its bent at all, replace it. If the axle is corroded, remove the corrosion with fine emery cloth. 7 Check the condition of the wheel bearings (see Section 13). Installation Refer to illustrations 11.8a and 11.8b 8 Installation is the reverse of removal. Apply a thin coat of grease to the seal lip, then slide the axle into the hub. Slide the wheel into place. Make sure the lugs in the speedometer drive clutch line up with the notches in the speedometer drive unit (see illustrations). Make sure the protrusion on the inner side of the left fork fits into the notch in the speedometer drive unit (see illustration 11.5b). 9 Slip the axle into place, then tighten the axle or axle nut to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications. If the axle is secured by a nut, install a new cotter pin. Tighten the axle pinch bolt to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications. 10 Apply the front brake, pump the forks up and down several times and check for binding and proper brake operation. 12 Rear wheel - removal and installation Refer to illustrations 12.2a, 12.2b, 12.3, 12.4, 12.5, 12.6 and 12.10 Removal 1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during tr procedure. 2 Detach the torque link from the brake panel and the brake rodl from the brake lever (see illustration 6.5b or 6.5c and the accompanying illustrations). 3 Remove the cotter pin from the axle nut, then remove the nut arxjl washer (see illustration). 4 Loosen the axle pinch bolt (see illustration). 5 Support the wheel, slide the axle out and remove the washer (see illustration). 6 On chain drive models, remove the spacer that fits between the j brake panel and the swingarm (see illustration). 7 Pull the wheel to the right and remove it from the final drivel assembly. 8 Before installing the wheel, check the axle for straightness by] rolling it on a flat surface such as a piece of plate glass (if the axle ts corroded, first remove the corrosion with fine emery cloth). If the axle is bent at all, replace it.
Chapter 6 Part B Brakes, wheels and tires (XV700-1100 models) 6B-17 12.2a Unscrew the nut and disconnect the brake rod 12.2b Remove the cotter pin, washer and nut and disconnect the brake rod 12.3 Remove the cotter pin and nut 12.4 Loosen the axle pinch bolt (if equipped) 12.5 Pull out the axle 12.6 On chain drive models, remove the spacer that fits between the brake panel and the swingarm 12.10 On chain drive models, replace the coupling dampers with new ones if theyre deteriorated, worn or brittle 12.11a On shaft drive models, be sure the long spacer is in position before installing the wheel 12.11b On chain drive models, align the vanes in the rear wheel coupling with the gaps between the coupling dampers 9 Check the condition of the wheel bearings (see Section 13). 10 If youre working on a chain drive model, inspect the rubber coupling dampers (see illustration). If theyre deteriorated, brittle or worn, pull them out of the wheel and install new ones. Installation Refer to illustrations 12.11a, 12.11b and 12.11c 11 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps, with the following additions: a) Apply a light coat of multi-purpose lithium-based grease to the lips of the oil seals and to the splines on the final drive and wheel hub. b) If youre working on a shaft drive model, be sure the long spacer is in place before installing the wheel (see illustration). c) If youre working on a chain drive model, align the vanes on the coupling with the gaps between the rubber coupling dampers (see illustration).