Haynes Yamaha Xv V Twins Manual

							
0-10 
General specifications

XV920 K and MK models

Wheelbase 1520 mm (59.8 inches)

Overall length 2230 mm (87.8 inches)

Overall width 805 mm (31.7 inches)

Overall height 1160 mm (45.7 inches)

Seat height Not specified

Ground clearance (minimum) 145 mm (5.7 inches)

Weight 235 kg (518 lbs)

XV920 RH and RJ models

Wheelbase 1540 mm (60.6 inches)

Overall length 2260 mm (89.0 inches)

Overall width 930 mm (36.6 inches)

Overall height 1170 mm (46.1 inches)

Seat height Not specified

Ground clearance (minimum) 140 mm (5.5 inches)

Weight 224 kg (493 lbs)

XV1000 models (1981 through 1985 UK TR1)

Wheelbase 1540 mm (60.6 inches)

Overall length 2265 mm (89.2 inches)

Overall width 730 mm (28.7 inches)

Overall height 1170 mm (46.1 inches)

Seat height Not specified

Ground clearance (minimum) 140 mm (5.5 inches)

Weight 220 kg (485 lbs)

XV1100 models (1986-on)

Wheelbase 1525 mm (60.0 inches)

Overall length

US models 2235 mm (88.0 inches) •

UK models 2285 mm (90.0 inches)

Overall width 840 mm (33.1 inches)

Overall height

1986 and 1987 1170 mm (46.1 inches)

1988-on 1190 mm (46.9 inches)

Seat height 715 mm (28.1 inches)

Ground clearance (minimum) 145 mm (5.7 inches)

Weight (with oil and full fuel tank)

US models 239 kg (527 lbs)

UK models 240 kg (529 lbs) 
						

							
0-11

Maintenance techniques,

tools and working facilities

Basic maintenance techniques

There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and

repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of

these techniques will enable the amateur mechanic to be more

efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks

properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and

complete.

Fastening systems

Fasteners, basically, are nuts, bolts and screws used to hold two

or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when

working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of

some type (either a lock washer, locknut, locking tab or thread

adhesive). All threaded fasteners should be clean, straight, have

undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where

the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and

bolts with new ones.

Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating oil to

ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine

in a spout type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust

penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut

or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled off or removed

with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores.

If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled out and

removed with a special tool called an E-Z out (or screw extractor).

Most dealer service departments and motorcycle repair shops can

perform this task, as well as others (such as the repair of threaded

holes that have been stripped out).

Flat washers and lock washers, when removed from an assembly,

should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged

washers with new ones. Always use a flat washer between a lock

washer and any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet

metal or plastic. Special locknuts can only be used once or twice

before they lose their locking ability and must be replaced.

Tightening sequences and procedures

When threaded fasteners are tightened, they are often tightened

to a specific torque value (torque is basically a twisting force). Over-

tightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while

under-tightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Each bolt,

depending on the material its made of, the diameter of its shank and

the material it is threaded into, has a specific torque value, which is

noted in the Specifications. Be sure to follow the torque recommen-

dations closely.

Fasteners laid out in a pattern (i.e. cylinder head bolts, engine

case bolts, etc.) must be loosened or tightened in a sequence to avoid

warping the component. Initially, the bolts/nuts should go on finger

tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-

cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full

turn, return to the first one tightened and tighten them all one half turn,

following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one quarter

turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper

torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners the procedure would be

reversed.

Disassembly sequence

Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose

to help ensure that the parts go back together properly during

reassembly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are

removed. Take note of special characteristics or marks on parts that

can be installed more than one way (such as a grooved thrust washer

on a shaft). Its a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a 
clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be

helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before

removal.

When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their

locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the

washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mixups later. If nuts and

bolts cant be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in

a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin

tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and

nuts from a particular area (i.e. engine case bolts, valve cover bolts,

engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when

working on assemblies with very small parts (such as the carburetors

and the valve train). The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to

identify the contents.

Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated,

its a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of

masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces

Throughout any motorcycle, gaskets are used to seal the mating

surfaces between components and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or

pressure contained in an assembly.

Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste type

gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure

can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that

they are very difficult to separate. In most cases, the part can be

loosened by striking it with a soft-faced hammer near the mating

surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed

between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or

parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn

part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been

removed.

Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart components, as they

can easily mar the gasket Sealing surfaces of the parts (which must

remain smooth). If prying is absolutely necessary, use a piece of wood,

but keep in mind that extra clean-up will be necessary if the wood

splinters.

After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully

scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material

can be soaked with a gasket remover (available in aerosol cans) to

soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned

from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end.

Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces

to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some

gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the

method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for

some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick

enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the

components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying)

gasket sealer is best.

Hose removal tips

Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal

precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose

mates against or the connection may leak. Because of various

chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal

spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose

clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip joint pliers, grab the

hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and

forth until it is completely free, then pull it off (silicone or other

lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose

and the outside of the spigot). Apply the same lubricant to the inside of

the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. 
						

							
0-12 
Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Spark plug gap adjusting tool 
Feeler gauge set

Control cable pressure luber 
Hand impact screwdriver and bits

Torque wrenches (left - click type; right - beam type) 
If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Also, do

not reuse hoses that are cracked, split or torn.

Tools

A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who

plans to maintain and repair a motorcycle. For the owner who has few

tools, if any, the initial investment might seem high, but when

compared to the spiraling costs of routine maintenance and repair, it is

a wise one.

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the

tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered:

Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul and Special. The

newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the

simpler jobs. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can

tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed.

Eventually the basic kit will be built into the Repair and overhaul tool

set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will

assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul

procedures and will add tools from the Special category when it is felt

that the expense is justified by the frequency of use. 
						

							
Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-13

Snap-ring pliers (top - external; bottom - internal) 
Allen wrenches (left) and Allen head sockets (right)

Valve spring compressor 
Piston ring removal/installation tool

Piston pin puller

Telescoping gauges 
						

							
0-14 
Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-to1-inch micrometer 
Cylinder surfacing hone

Cylinder compression gauge 
Dial indicator set

Multimeter (volt/ohm/ammeter)

Adjustable spanner 
						

							
Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-15

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required

for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair

work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box end

and open end combined in one wrench); while more expensive than

open-ended ones, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

Combination wrench set (6 mm to 22 mm)

Adjustable wrench -8 in

Spark plug socket (with rubber insert)

Spark plug gap adjusting tool

Feeler gauge set

Standard screwdriver (5/16 in x 6 in)

Phillips screwdriver (No. 2x6 in)

Allen (hex) wrench set (4 mm to 12 mm)

Combination (slip-joint) pliers - 6 in

Hacksaw and assortment of blades

Tire pressure gauge

Control cable pressure luber

Grease gun

Oil can

Fine emery cloth

Wire brush

Hand impact screwdriver and bits

Funnel (medium size)

Safety goggles

Drain pan

Work light with extension cord

Repair and overhaul tool set

These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major

repairs and are intended to supplement those in the Maintenance and

minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which,

though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility (especially

when various extensions and drives are available). We recommend the

3/8 inch drive over the 1/2 inch drive for general motorcycle

maintenance and repair (ideally, the mechanic would have a 3/8 inch

drive set and a 1/2 inch drive set).

Socket set(s)

Reversible ratchet

Extension - 6 in

Universal joint

Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets)

Ball pein hammer - 8 oz

Soft-faced hammer (plastic/rubber)

Standard screwdriver (1/4 in x 6 in)

Standard screwdriver (stubby - 5/16 in)

Phillips screwdriver (No. 3x8 in)

Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2)

Pliers - locking

Pliers - linemans

Pliers - needle nose

Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external)

Cold chisel - 1/2 in

Scriber

Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing)

Center punch

Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16 in)

Steel rule/straightedge - 12 in

Pin-type spanner wrench

A selection of files

Wire brush (large)

Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck

capacity of 3/8 inch (and a set of good quality drill bits).

Special tools

The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly,

are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with

their manufacturers instructions. Unless these tools will be used 
frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A

consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and

a friend or friends (i.e. members of a motorcycle club).

This list primarily contains tools and instruments widely available

to the public, as well as some special tools produced by the vehicle

manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. As a

result, references to the manufacturers special tools are occasionally

included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of

doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes

there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool

cant be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the

dealer service department or a motorcycle repair shop.

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring removal and installation tool

Piston pin puller

Telescoping gauges

Micrometers) and/or dial/Vernier calipers

Cylinder surfacing hone

Cylinder compression gauge

Dial indicator set

Multimeter

Adjustable spanner

Manometer or vacuum gauge set

Small air compressor with blow gun and tire chuck

Buying tools

For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in

motorcycle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options

available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the

extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is

satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would

be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large

retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings

over the individual tool prices (and they often come with a tool box). As

additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger

tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool

set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer

period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only

those tools that will actually be used.

Tool stores and motorcycle dealers will often be the only source

of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where

tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones (especially when buying

screwdrivers and sockets) because they wont last very long.There are

plenty of tools around at reasonable prices, but always aim to

purchase items which meet the relevant national safety standards. The

expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater

than the initial cost of quality tools.

It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here.

For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use, there is a

book entitled Motorcycle Workshop Practice Manual (Book no. 1454)

available from the publishers of this manual. It also provides an

introduction to basic workshop practice which will be of interest to a

home mechanic working on any type of motorcycle.

Care and maintenance of tools

Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with

respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them

properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal

chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the

work area.

Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets,

can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall,

while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring

instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they

cant be damaged by weather or impact from other tools.

When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a

very long time. Even with the best of care, tools will wear out if used

frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it; subsequent

jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do. 
						

							
0-16 
Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Working facilities

Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If

anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort

of suitable work area is essential.

It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do

not have a good workshop or garage available and end up removing an

engine or doing major repairs outside (it is recommended, however,

that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof).

A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is

an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise

that has a jaw opening of at least four inches.

As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also

required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents,

etc. which soon become necessary. 
Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or

cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a

disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a

sewage system, simply pour the used fluids into large containers, seal

them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or service

station. Plastic jugs are ideal for this purpose.

Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags

available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many

mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are

readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the

motorcycle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened

to protect the garage or shop floor.

Whenever working over a painted surface (such as the fuel tank)

cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. 
						

							
0-17

Safety first

Professional mechanics are trained in safe working procedures.

However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at

hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A

moments lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to

observe simple precautions.

There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the

following is not a comprehensive list of all dangers; it is intended rather

to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safe approach to all

work you carry out on your bike.

Essential DOs and DONTs

DONT start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission

is in neutral.

DONT suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system -

cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may

get scalded by escaping coolant.

DONT attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently

to avoid scalding you.

DONT grasp any part of the engine or exhaust system without first

ascertaining that it is cool enough not to burn you.

DONT allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact the machines paint

work or plastic components.

DONT siphon toxic liquids such as fuel, hydraulic fluid or antifreeze by

mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin.

DONT inhale dust - it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos

heading).

DONT allow any spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up

right away, before someone slips on it.

DONT use ill fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause

injury.

DONT attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your

capability - get assistance.

DONT rush to finish a job or take unverified short cuts.

DONT allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle.

DONT inflate a tire to a pressure above the recommended maximum.

Apart from over stressing the carcase and wheel rim, in extreme cases

the tire may blow off forcibly.

DO ensure that the machine is supported securely at all times. This is

especially important when the machine is blocked up to aid wheel or

fork removal.

DO take care when attempting to loosen a stubborn nut or bolt. It is

generally better to pull on a wrench, rather than push, so that if you

slip, you fall away from the machine rather than onto it.

DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander,

bench grinder etc.

DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs -it

will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to

remove afterwards; but make sure your hands arent left slippery. Note

that long-term contact with used engine oil can be a health hazard.

DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, ties etc. and long hair) well out of the

way of moving mechanical parts.

DO remove rings, wristwatch etc., before working on the vehicle-

especially the electrical system.

DO keep your work area tidy - it is only too easy to fall over articles left

lying around.

DO exercise caution when compressing springs for removal or instal-

lation. Ensure that the tension is applied and released in a controlled

manner, using suitable tools which preclude the possibility of the

spring escaping violently.

DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating

adequate for the job.

DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working

alone on the vehicle.

DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is

correctly assembled and tightened afterwards.

DO remember that your vehicles safety affects that of yourself and

others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice. 
IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough

to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

Asbestos

Certain friction, insulating, sealing and other products - such as

brake pads, clutch linings, gaskets, etc. - contain asbestos. Extreme

care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products

since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain

asbestos.

Fire

Remember at all times that gasoline (petrol) is highly flammable.

Never smoke or have any kind of naked flame around, when working

on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a spark caused by an

electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by

careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body

under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline (petrol) vapor, which in a

confined space is highly explosive. Never use gasoline (petrol) as a

cleaning solvent. Use an approved safety solvent.

Always disconnect the battery ground (earth) terminal before

working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk

spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust.

It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for

fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all

times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes

Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause un-

consciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline

(petrol) vapor comes into this category, as do the vapors from certain

solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such

volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area.

When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions

carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers - they may

give off poisonous vapors.

Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such

as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is

extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the

open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace.

The battery

Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light near the vehicles

battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas,

which is highly explosive.

Always disconnect the battery ground (earth) terminal before

working on the fuel or electrical systems (except where noted).

If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the

battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or

the battery may burst.

Take care when topping up, cleaning or carrying the battery. The

acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be

allowed to contact the eyes or skin. Always wear rubber gloves and

goggles or a face shield. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself,

always add the acid slowly to the water; never add the water to the acid.

Electricity

When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc., always

ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that,

where necessary, it is properly grounded (earthed). Do not use such

appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark

or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor. Also

ensure that the appliances meet national safety standards.

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of

the electrical system, such as the spark plug wires (HT leads), when

the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are

damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition

system is used, the secondary (HT) voltage is much higher and could

prove fatal. 
						

							
Motorcycle chemicals and lubricants

A number of chemicals and lubricants are available for use in

motorcycle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of

products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants

and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Contact point/spark plug cleaner is a solvent used to clean oily

film and dirt from points, grime from electrical connectors and oil

deposits from spark plugs. It is oil free and leaves no residue. It can

also be used to remove gum and varnish from carburetor jets and

other orifices.

Carburetor cleaner is similar to contact point/spark plug cleaner

but it usually has a stronger solvent and may leave a slight oily reside.

It is not recommended for cleaning electrical components or

connections.

Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease or brake fluid

from brake system components (where clean surfaces are absolutely

necessary and petroleum-based solvents cannot be used); it also

leaves no residue.

Silicone-based lubricants are used to protect rubber parts such

as hoses and grommets, and are used as lubricants for hinges and

locks.

Multi-purpose grease is an all purpose lubricant used wherever

grease is more practical than a liquid lubricant such as oil. Some multi-

purpose grease is colored white and specially formulated to be more

resistant to water than ordinary grease.

Gear oil (sometimes called gear lube) is a specially designed oil

used in transmissions and final drive units, a s well as other areas

where high friction, high temperature lubrication is required. It is

available in a number of viscosities (weights) for various applications.

Motor oil, of course, is the lubricant specially formulated for use

in the engine. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent

corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various

weights (viscosity ratings) of from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of

the oil depends on the seasonal temperature and the demands on the

engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load

conditions; heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are

encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have Characteristics

of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights

from 5W-20 to 20W-50.

Gas (petrol) additives perform several functions, depending on

their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help

dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts.

They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside

surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper

cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings. 
Brake fluid is a specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can

withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care

must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted

surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed

to prevent contamination by water or dirt.

Chain lubricants are formulated especially for use on motorcycle

final drive chains. A good chain lube should adhere well and have good

penetrating qualities to be effective as a lubricant inside the chain and

on the side plates, pins and rollers. Most chain lubes are either the

foaming type or quick drying type and are usually marketed as sprays.

Degreasers are heavy duty solvents used to remove grease and

grime that may accumulate on engine and frame components. They

can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed

with either water or solvent.

Solvents are used alone or in combination with degreasers to

clean parts and assemblies during repair and overhaul. The home

mechanic should use only solvents that are non-flammable and that do

not produce irritating fumes.

Gasket sealing compounds may be used in conjunction with

gaskets, to improve their sealing capabilities, or alone, to seal metal-

to-metal joints. Many gasket sealers can withstand extreme heat,

some are impervious to gasoline and lubricants, while others are

capable of filling and sealing large cavities. Depending on the intended

use, gasket sealers either dry hard or stay relatively soft and pliable.

They are usually applied by hand, with a brush, or are sprayed on the

gasket sealing surfaces.

Thread cement is an adhesive locking compound that prevents

threaded fasteners from loosening because of vibration. It is available

in a variety of types for different applications.

Moisture dispersants are usually sprays that can be used to dry

out electrical components such as the fuse block and wiring

connectors. Some types can also be used as treatment for rubber and

as a lubricant for hinges, cables and locks.

Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated

surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use

of different types of wax polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or

abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on

older-vehicles. In recent years, many non-wax polishes (that contain a

wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones) have been

introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and

last longer than conventional waxes and polishes. 
						

							
Troubleshooting 
0-19

Contents

Symptom Section

Engine doesnt start or is difficult to start

Starter motor doesnt rotate... 1

Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn over 2

Starter works but engine wont turn over (seized) 3

No fuel flow . 4

Engine flooded 5

No spark or weak spark 6

Compression low 7

Stalls after starting 8

Rough idle 9

Poor running at low speed

Spark weak 10

Fuel/air mixture incorrect 11

Compression low 12

Poor acceleration 13

Poor running or no power at high speed

Firing incorrect 14

Fuel/air mixture incorrect 15

Compression low 16

Knocking or pinging 17

Miscellaneous causes 18

Overheating

Engine overheats 19

Firing incorrect 20

Fuel/air mixture incorrect 21

Compression too high 22

Engine load excessive 23

Lubrication inadequate 24

Miscellaneous causes 25

Clutch problems

Clutch slipping 26

Clutch not disengaging completely 27

Gear shifting problems

Doesnt go into gear, or lever doesnt return 28 
Symptom Section

Jumps out of gear... 29

Overshifts 30

Abnormal engine noise

Knocking or pinging 31

Piston slap or rattling 32

Valve noise 33

Other noise 34

Abnormal driveline noise

Clutch noise 35

Transmission noise 36

Chain or final drive noise 37

Abnormal frame and suspension noise

Front end noise 38

Shock absorber noise 39

Disc brake noise 40

Oil level indicator light comes on

Engine lubrication system 41

Electrical system 42

Excessive exhaust smoke

White smoke 43

Black smoke 44

Brown srnoke 45

Poor handling or stability

Handlebar hard to turn 46

Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively 47

Handlebar pulls to one side 48

Poor shock absorbing qualities 49

Braking problems

Brakes are spongy, dont hold 50

Brake lever pulsates 51

Brakes drag 52

Electrical problems

Battery dead or weak 53

Battery overcharged 54