Haynes Yamaha Xv V Twins Manual

							
7B-2 
Chapter 7 Part B Frame and bodywork (XV700-1100 models)

4.1 Remove one mounting nut, detach the prop rod and remove

the other mounting nut 
5.1a The sidestand spring must be properly connected

and in good condition

removing the right rear footpeg assembly on an early shaft drive

model, support the exhaust system and unbolt the footpeg from the

frame (the same boit also secures an exhaust bracket).

3 To remove a footpeg assembly on chain drive models, remove the

pivot bracket nut and washer from the inside of the alloy bracket.

4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Lubricate the footpeg pivots

(see Chapter 1).

4 Seat - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 4.1

1 If youre working on a hinged seat, unlock and lift the seat and

remove one of the mounting nuts (see illustration). Detach the prop

rod, then remove the remaining mounting nut.

2 If the seat is secured by clips, unlock it, then detach it from the

clips.

3 If youre working on a bolted seat (1984 and later models),

remove the bolts (one on each side at the front of the seat). Detach the

rear of the seat from its bracket and lift it off.

4 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps.

5 Sidestand and centerstand - maintenance

Refer to illustrations 5.1a and 5.1b

1 The sidestand (and centerstand on models so equipped) is 
attached to the frame. An extension spring(s) anchored to the bracket

ensures that the stand is held in the extended or retracted position

(see illustrations).

2 Make sure the pivot bolt or nuts are tight and the extension spring

is in good condition and not overstretched. An accident is almost

certain to occur if the stand extends while the machine is in motion.

6 Sidestand and centerstand - removal and installation

1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure.

2 Unhook the spring (see illustration 5.1a or 5.1b). Remove the

pivot bolt or nuts and take the stand off the pivot shaft(s).

3 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps.

7 Side covers - removal and installation

1 Side covers on all models are secured by rubber grommets. In

some cases, posts fit into the grommets; in other cases, a slot in the

edge of the cover fits into a slot in the grommet.

2 To remove a side cover, pull it gently to disengage the cover from

the grommets. Caution: Dont force the cover loose. If it wont come

easily, make sure youre pulling in the right direction.

3 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps.

5.1b ... the centerstand spring must also

be properly connected and in

good condition 
8.1 Remove the fender/mudguard

mounting bolts 
8.2 Slip the speedometer cable out

of the guide 
						

							
Chapter 7 Part B Frame and bodywork (XV700-1100 models)

7B-3

8 Front fender/mudguard - removal and installation

Early models

Refer to illustrations 8.1 and 8.2

1 The front fender/mudguard on early models is bolted to the forks

(see illustration). If the upper fender/mudguard bolts will come all the

way out without striking the wheel rim, it wont be necessary to remove

the front wheel. If they wont, remove the front wheel (see Chapter 6).

2 Disconnect the lower end of the speedometer cable from the

drive unit and slip the cable out of the guide (see illustration).

3 Unbolt the fender/mudguard from the forks and take it off.

Later models

Refer to illustration 8.4

4 Remove the fork brace bolts and lift off the fork brace (see

illustration). Unbolt the fender/mudguard and remove it from the

motorcycle.

5 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. Tighten the bolts

securely.

9 Rear fender/mudguard - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 9.2

1 Remove the seat (see Section 4) and the rear wheel (see Chap-

ter 6).

2 If youre working on a fender/mudguard thats bolted to the

swingarm, remove the bolts and take the fender/mudguard out. 
8.4 On later models, remove the fork brace bolts (arrows)

3 Unbolt the fender/mudguard (and lower front fender/mudguard

panel, if equipped) from the frame (see illustration). On models with

backrests, the backrest is secured by some of the fender/mudguard

bolts.

4 Follow the wiring harnesses for the brake/taillights and rear turn

signals to their connectors and disconnect them.

5 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps.

9.2 Rear fender/mudguard details (later TR1 models)

1 Reinforcement plate

2 Rear fender/mudguard

3 Subframe

4 Bolt and lockwasher

5 Washer

6 Bolt with lockwasher and plain washer

7 Nut

8 Washer

9 Bolt

10 Lockwasher 
						

							
7B-4 
Chapter 7 Part B Frame and bodywork (XV700-1100 models)

Notes 
						

							
8A-1

Chapter 8 Part A

Electrical system (XV535 models)

Contents

Section

Alternator Cover, stator. rotor and regulator/rectifier - removal

and installation 28

Battery - charging 4

Battery - inspection and maintenance 3

Brake light switches - check and replacement 12

Carburetor heater (1994 UK models) - testing 31

Charging system - output test 27

Charging system testing - general information and precautions... 26

Clutch switch - check and replacement 20

Electrical troubleshooting 2

Fuel tap solenoid (1989 and later models) - removal,

testing and installation 30

Fuses - check and replacement 5

General information 1

Handlebar switches - check 16

Handlebar switches - removal and installation 17

Headlight aim - check and adjustment 8 
Section

Headlight assembly - removal and installation 9

Headlight bulb - replacement.... 7

Horn - check and replacement 21

Ignition main (key) switch - check and replacement 15

Instrument and warning light bulbs - replacement 14

Lighting system - check 6

Neutral switch - check and replacement 18

Sidestand switch - check and replacement 19

Speedometer and cable - removal and installation 13

Starter clutch - removal, inspection and installation 29

Starter motor - disassembly, inspection and reassembly 25

Starter motor - removal and installation 24

Starter relay - check and replacement.. 22

Starting circuit cut-off relay - check and replacement 2,3

Turn signal circuit - check 11

Turn signals and tail/brake light bulbs - replacement 10

Wiring diagrams 32 
						

							
8A-2 
Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models)

Specifications

Battery type 12 v, 12 Ah

Fuse specifications

Main

1987 through 1990 models 20 amps

1991-on models 30 amps

All others

1987 through 1990 models 10 amps

1991-on models 15 amps

Charging system

Statorcoil resistance 0.34 to 0.42 ohms

Charging system output 14 to 15 volts at 5,000 rpm

Starter

Starter commutator diameter

Standard 28 mm (1.1 inch)

Minimum 27 mm (1.06 inch)

Mica undercut 1.6 mm (0.063 inch)

Starter brush length

Standard 12.0 mm (0.47 inch)

Minimum 5.0 mm (0.20 inch)

Bulb specifications (US models)

Headlight 65/60W

Tail/brake lights 8/27W

Rear turn signals 27W

Front turn signals 8W

Speedometer light

1987 through 1993 3W

1994 3.4W

Turn signal indicator... 3W

Neutral indicator 3W

High beam indicator 1.7W

Bulb specifications (UK models)

Headlight 60/55W

Tail/brake lights 5/21

Turn signals 21W

Speedometer light 3W

Turn Signal indicator 3W

Neutral indicator 3W

High beam indicator 1.7W

Parking light 3.4W

Carburetor heater resistance 5 to 6 ohms at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F)

Torque specifications

Alternator rotor bolt 80 Nm (58 ft-lbs)

Statorcoil screws 7 Nm (5.1 ft-lbs)*

Alternator cover bolts 10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

Starter mounting bolts 10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

Starter clutch body bolts 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)**

*Apply non-permanent thread locking agent to the threads.

**Apply non-permanent thread locking agent to the threads and stake the bolts. 
						

							
Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models)

8A-3

1 General information

The machines covered by this manual are equipped with a 12-volt

electrical system.

The charging system on XV535 models uses a rotor with

permanent magnets that rotates around a stator coil of copper wire.

This produces alternating current, which is converted to direct current

by the regulator/rectifier. The regulator/rectifier also controls the

charging system output.

An electric starter mounted to the front of the engine is standard

equipment. The starter on early models has four brushes; the starter on

later models has two brushes. The starting system includes the motor,

the battery, the relay and the various wires and switches. If the engine

kill switch and the ignition (main key) switch are both in the On

position, the circuit relay allows the starter motor to operate only if the

transmission is in Neutral (Neutral switch on) or the clutch lever is

pulled to the handlebar (clutch switch on) and the sidestarfd is up

(sidestand switch on).

Note: Keep in mind that electrical parts, once purchased, cant be

returned. To avoid unnecessary expense, make very sure the faulty

component has been positively identified before buying a replacement

part.

2 Electrical troubleshooting

A typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical component, the

switches, relays, etc. related to that component and the wiring and

connectors that hook the component to both the battery and the

frame. To aid in locating a problem in any electrical circuit, complete

wiring diagrams of each model are included at the end of this Chapter.

Before tackling any troublesome electrical circuit, first study the

appropriate diagrams thoroughly to get a complete picture of what

makes up that individual circuit. Trouble spots, for instance, can often

be narrowed down by noting if other components related to that circuit

are operating properly or not. If several components or circuits fail at

one time, chances are the fault lies in the fuse or ground/earth

connection, as several circuits often are routed through the same fuse

and ground/earth connections.

Electrical problems often stem from simple causes, such as loose

or corroded connections or a blown fuse. Prior to any electrical

troubleshooting, always visually check the condition of the fuse, wires

and connections in the problem circuit. Intermittent failures can be

especially frustrating, since you cant always duplicate the failure when

its convenient to test. In such situations, a good practice is to clean all

connections in the affected circuit, whether or not they appear to be

good. All of the connections and wires should also be wiggled to

check for looseness which can cause intermittent failure.

If testing instruments are going to be utilized, use the diagrams to

plan where you will make the necessary connections in order to

accurately pinpoint the trouble spot.

The basic tools needed for electrical troubleshooting include a

test light or voltmeter, a continuity tester (which includes a bulb,

battery and set of test leads) and a jumper wire, preferably with a

circuit breaker incorporated, which can be used to bypass electrical

components. Specific checks described later in this Chapter may also

require an ohmmeter.

Voltage checks should be performed if a circuit is not functioning

properly. Connect one lead of a test light or voltmeter to either the

negative battery terminal or a known good ground. Connect the other

lead to a connector in the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to the

battery or fuse. If the bulb lights, voltage is reaching that point, which

means the part of the circuit between that connector and the battery is

problem-free. Continue checking the remainder of the circuit in the

same manner. When you reach a point where no voltage is present, the

problem lies between there and the last good test point. Most of the

time the problem is due to a loose connection. Keep in mind that some

circuits only receive voltage when the ignition key is in the On position. 
3.4 Always disconnect the negative battery cable first and

reconnect it last to prevent sparks which could cause the battery

to explode; be sure to reinstall the terminal covers for the

same reason

A Negative cable 
B Positive cable

One method of finding short circuits is to remove the fuse and

connect a test light or voltmeter in its place to the fuse terminals. There

should be no load in the circuit (it should be switched off). Move the

wiring harness from side-to-side while watching the test light. If the

bulb lights, there is a short to ground/earth somewhere in that area,

probably where insulation has rubbed off a wire. The same test can be

performed on other components in the circuit, including the switch.

A ground/earth,check should be done to see if a component is

grounded properly. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a

self-powered test light (continuity tester) to a known good ground.

Connect the other lead to the wire or ground/earth connection being

tested. If the bulb lights, the ground/earth is good. If the bulb does not

light, the ground/earth is not good.

A continuity check is performed to see if a circuit, section of

circuit or individual component is capable of passing electricity

through it. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a self-

powered test light (continuity tester) to one end of the circuit being

tested and the other lead to the other end of the circuit. If the bulb

lights, there is continuity, which means the circuit is passing electricity

through it properly. Switches can be checked in the same way.

Remember that all electrical circuits are designed to conduct

electricity from the battery, through the wires, switches, relays, etc. to

the electrical component (light bulb, motor, etc.). From there it is

directed to the frame (ground) where it is passed back to the battery.

Electrical problems are basically an interruption in the flow of electricity

from the battery or back to it.

3 Battery - inspection and maintenance

Refer to illustration 3.4

1 Most battery damage is caused by heat, vibration, and/or low

electrolyte levels, so make sure the battery is securely mounted, check

the electrolyte level frequently and make sure the charging system is

functioning properly.

2 Refer to Chapter 1 for electrolyte level aYid specific gravity

checking procedures.

3 Check around the base inside of the battery for sediment, which

is the result of sulfation caused by low electrolyte levels. These

deposits will cause internal short circuits, which can quickly discharge

the battery. Look for cracks in the case and replace the battery if

either of these conditions is found.

4 Check the battery terminals and cable ends for tightness and

corrosion. If corrosion is evident, remove the cables from the battery

(see illustration) and clean the terminals and cable ends with a wire 
						

							
8A-4 
Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models)

5.1a The main and accessory fuses are

located in a fuse block under the seat

(this is an early model)... 
5.1b ... and this is a later model 
5.1c Lift the cover for access to the fuse

(early model shown)

brush or knife and emery paper. Reconnect the cables and apply a thin

coat of petroleum jelly to the connections to slow further corrosion.

5 The battery case should be kept clean to prevent current leakage,

which can discharge the battery over a period of time (especially when

it sits unused). Wash the outside of the case with a solution of baking

soda and water. Do not get any baking soda solution in the battery

cells. Rinse the battery thoroughly, then dry it.

6 If acid has been spilled on the frame or battery box, neutralize it

with the baking soda and water solution, dry it thoroughly, then touch

up any damaged paint. Make sure the battery vent tube is directed

away from the frame and is not kinked or pinched.

7 If the motorcycle sits unused for long periods of time, disconnect

the cables from the battery terminals. Refer to Section 4 and charge

the battery approximately once every month.

4 Battery - charging

1 If the machine sits idle for extended periods or if the charging

system malfunctions, the battery can be charged from an external

source.

2 To properly charge the battery, you will need a charger of the

correct rating, a hydrometer, a clean rag and a syringe for adding

distilled water to the battery cells.

3 The maximum charging rate for any battery is 1/10 of the rated

amp/hour capacity. As an example, the maximum charging rate for a

12 amp/hour battery would be 1.2 amps and the maximum charging

rate for a 14 amp/hour battery would be 1.4 amps. If the battery is

charged at a higher rate, it could be damaged.

4 Do not allow the battery to be subjected to a so-called quick

charge (high rate of charge over a short period of time) unless you are

prepared to buy a new battery.

5 When charging the battery, always remove it from the machine

and be sure to check the electrolyte level before hooking up the

charger. Add distilled water to any cells that are low.

6 Loosen the cell caps, hook-up the battery charger leads (red to

positive, black to negative), cover the top of the battery with a clean

rag, then, and only then, plug in the battery charger. Warning:

Remember, the gas escaping from a charging battery is explosive, so

keep open flames and sparks well away from the area. Also, the

electrolyte is extremely corrosive and will damage anything it comes in

contact with.

7 Allow the battery to charge until the specific gravity is as specified

(refer to Chapter 1 for specific gravity checking procedures). The

charger must be unplugged and disconnected from the battery when

making specific gravity checks, if the battery overheats or gases

excessively, the charging rate is too high. Either disconnect the

charger or lower the charging rate to prevent damage to the battery. 
8 Its time for a new battery if:

a) One or more of the cells is significantly lower in specific gravity

than the others after a long slow charge.

b) The battery as a whole doesnt seem to want to take a charge.

c) Battery voltage wont increase.

d) The electrolyte doesnt bubble.

e) The plates are white (indicating sulfation) or debris has

accumulated in the bottom of a cell.

f) The plates or insulators are warped or buckled.

9 When the battery is fully charged, unplug the charger first, then

disconnect the leads ffom the battery. Install the cell caps and wipe

any electrolyte off the outside of the battery case.

5 Fuses - check and replacement

Refer to illustrations 5.1a, 5.1b and 5.1c

1 The fuse block is located beneath the top cover (early models) or

the seat (later models) (see illustrations). It contains a 20-amp or 30-

amp main fuse, spare fuses and accessory fuses (see illustration)

Fuse functions and ratings are listed in this Chapters Specifications.

Fuse ratings are marked on the fuses.

2 If you have a test light, all of the fuses can be checked without

removing them. Turn the ignition key to the On position, connect one

end of the test light to a good ground, then probe each terminal on top

of the fuse. If the fuse is good, there will be voltage available at both

terminals. If the fuse is blown, there will only be voltage present at one

of the terminals.

3 The fuses can also be tested with an ohmmeter or self-powered

test light. Remove the fuse and connect the tester to the ends of the

fuse. If the ohmmeter shows continuity or the test lamp lights, the fuse

is good. If the ohmmeter shows infinite resistance or the test lamp

stays out, the fuse is blown.

4 The fuses can be removed and checked visually. If you cant pull

the fuse out with your fingertips, use a pair of needle-nose pliers. A

blown fuse is easily identified by a break in the element.

5 If a fuse blows, be sure to check the wiring harnesses very

carefully for evidence of a short circuit. Look for bare wires and

chafed, melted or burned insulation. If a fuse is replaced before the

cause is located, the new fuse will blow immediately.

6 Never, under any circumstances, use a higher rated fuse or bridge

the fuse block terminals, as damage to the electrical system could

result.

7 Occasionally a fuse will blow or cause an open circuit for no

obvious reason. Corrosion of the fuse ends and fuse block terminals

may occur and cause poor fuse contact. If this happens, remove the

corrosion with a wire brush or emery paper, then spray the fuse end

and terminals with electrical contact cleaner. 
						

							
Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models) 
8A-5

7.1a Remove the headlight cover

screws (arrows) .. . 
7.1b ... tilt the cover out of the

headlight assembly and disconnect

the wiring connector 
7.2a Unscrew the retainer,

7.2b ... and lift the bulb out; dont touch the glass on the

new bulb

6 Lighting system - check

1 The battery provides power for operation of the headlight,

taillight, brake light, license plate light, instrument and warning lights. If

none of the lights operate, always check battery voltage before

proceeding. Low battery voltage indicates either a faulty battery, low

battery electrolyte level or a defective charging system. Refer to

Chapter 1 for battery checks and Sections 26 and 27 for charging

system tests. Also, check the condition of the fuses and replace any

blown fuses with new ones.

Headlight

2 If the headlight is out when the engine is running (US models) or it

wont switch on (UK models), check the fuse first with the key or switch

On (see Section 5), then unplug the electrical connector for the

headlight and use jumper wires to connect the bulb directly to the

battery terminals (see Section 7). If the light comes on, the problem lies

in the wiring or one of the switches in the circuit. Refer to Section 16

for the switch testing procedures, and also the wiring diagrams at the

end of this Chapter.

Taillight/license plate light

3 If the taillight fails to work, check the bulbs and the bulb terminals

first, then check for battery voltage at the taillight electrical connector.

If voltage is present, check the ground/earth circuit for an open or poor

connection. 
4 If no voltage is indicated, check the wiring between the taillight

and the ignition switch, then check the switch. On UK modeis, check

the lighting switch as well.

Brake light

5 See Section 12 for the brake light switch checking procedure.

Neutral indicator light

6 If the neutral light fails to operate when the transmission is in

Neutral and the key switch is On, check the fuses and the bulb (see

Section 14 for bulb removal procedures). If the bulb and fuses are in

good condition, check for battery voltage at the connector attached to

the neutral switch on the left side of the engine. If battery voltage is

present, refer to Section 18 for the neutral switch check and

replacement procedures.

7 If no voltage is indicated, check the wiring between the switch

and the bulb for open circuits and poor connections.

7 Headlight bulb - replacement

Refer to illustrations 7.1a, 7.1b, 7.2a and 7.2b

Warning: If the bulb has just burned out, allow it to cool. It will be hot

enough to burn your fingers.

1 Remove the headlight cover screws (see illustration). Tilt the

cover forward out of the headlight assembly and disconnect the

electrical connector (see illustration).

2 Turn the bulb retainer counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) (see

illustration). Remove the bulb (see illustration).

3 When installing the new bulb, reverse the removal procedure. Be

sure not to touch the bulb glass with your fingers - oil from your skin

will cause the bulb to overheat and fail prematurely. If you do touch the

bulb, wipe it off with a clean rag dampened with rubbing alcohol.

4 The parking light bulb holder (auxiliary light) on UK models is a

push fit in the grommet set in the rear of the reflector. Access may be

possible via the cutout in the headlight housing, but if not remove the

headlight as described in Step 1. Twist the bulb counterclockwise

(anti-clockwise) to release it from its bulb holder.

8 Headlight aim - check and adjustment

Refer to illustration 8.3

1 . An improperly adjusted headlight may cause problems for

oncoming traffic or provide poor, unsafe illumination of the road ahead.

Before adjusting the headlight, be sure to consult with local traffic laws

and regulations. 
						

							
8A-6 
Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models)

8.3 The headlight adjusting screws are

located on either side of the headlight

assembly; the vertical adjusting screw is

at the lower right (arrow); the horizontal

adjusting screw is at the upper left 
9.2 Remove the pivot bolt and nut at the

bottom (arrows) and the mounting bolt

inside the headlight assembly 
10.2 Press the bulb into the socket and

turn it counterclockwise (anti-clockwise

to remove

10.5 Remove the lens screws (arrows) and take off the lens

10.6 Press the bulbs into their sockets and turn counterclockwise

(anti-clockwise) to remove

2 The headlight beam can be adjusted both vertically and

horizontally. Before performing the adjustment, make sure the fuel tank

is at leasi half full and have an assistant sit on the seat.

3 The horizontal adjusting screw is at the upper left of the headlight 
cover (see illustration). The vertical adjusting screw is located at the

lower right.

9 Headlight assembly - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 9.2

1 Remove the headlight cover (see Section 7). If youre planning to

take the headlight assembly completely off the motorcycle, disconnect

the electrical connectors inside the headlight assembly. If youre just

removing the assembly for access to the speedometer, the connectors

can be left attached.

2 Remove the mounting bolt inside the headlight cover and the

pivot bolt at the bottom (see illustration). Slide the assembly down

and forward so the mounting grommet can clear the post, then take

the assembly off the motorcycle.

3 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps.

10 Turn signals and tail/brake light bulbs - replacement

Turn signal bulbs

Refer to illustration 10.2

1 To replace a turn signal bulb, remove the screws that hold the

lens to the turn signal housing and take off the lens.

2 Push the bulb in and turn it counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) to

remove it (see illustration).

3 Check the socket terminals for corrosion and clean them if

necessary. Line up the pins on the new bulb with the slots in the

socket, push in and turn the bulb clockwise until it locks in place.

Note: The pins on US model front turn signal bulbs are offset so they

can only be installed one way. It is a good idea to use a paper towel or

dry cloth when handling the new bulb to prevent injury if the bulb

should break and to increase bulb life.

4 Position the lens on the housing and install the screws. Be careful

not to overtighten them or the lens will crack.

Tail/brake light bulbs

Refer to illustrations 10.5 and 10.6

5 Remove the lens screws and take the lens off (see illustration).

6 . Push the bulb in and turn it counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) to

remove it (see illustration).

7 Perform Steps 3 and 4 above to install the bulb, noting that the

pins are offset. 
						

							
Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models) 
8A-7

11.3 The turn signal relay/cancel unit is

located behind the right front side cover;

its part of the relay assembly and can be

identified by its wire colors 
12.5 To remove the brake light switch,

insert a tool into the hole under the

bracket and release the retainer 
12.8 Disconnect the brake light switch

spring, loosen the locknut and compress

the prongs to detach the switch from

the bracket

11 Turn signal circuit - check

Refer to illustration 11.3

1 The battery provides power for operation of the signal lights, so if

they do not operate, always check the battery voltage and specific

gravity first. Low battery voltage indicates either a faulty battery, low

electrolyte level or a defective charging system. Refer-to Chapter 1 for

battery checks and Sections 26 and 27 for charging system tests.

Also, check the fuses (see Section 5).

2 Most turn signal problems are the result of a burned out bulb or

corroded socket. This is especially true when the turn signals function

properly in one direction, but fail to flash in the other direction. Check

the bulbs and the sockets (see Section 10).

3 If the bulbs and sockets check out okay, remove the right front

side cover and check for power at the turn signal relay in the relay

assembly (see illustration) with the ignition On. Refer to the Wiring

diagrams at the end of the book to identify the power source terminal.

4 If the relay is okay, check the wiring between the turn signal relay

and the turn signal lights (see the wiring diagrams at the end of the

book).

5 If the wiring checks out okay, replace the turn signal relay.

12 Brake light switches - check and replacement

Circuit check

1 Before checking any electrical circuit, check the fuses (see

Section 5).

2 Using a test light connected to a good ground, check for voltage

at the brake light switch. If theres no voltage present, check the wire

between the switch and the fuse box (see the wiring diagrams at the

end of this Chapter).

3 If voltage is available, touch the probe of the test light to the other

terminal of the switch, then pull the brake lever or depress the brake

pedal - if the test light doesnt light up, replace the switch.

4 If the test light does light, check the wiring between the switch

and the brake lights (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this

Chapter).

Switch replacement

Front brake lever switch

Refer to illustration 12.5

5 The switch slides into the handle pivot and is secured by a prong

(see illustration). Disconnect the electrical connector. Insert a small 
13.1 Unscrew the speedometer cable from the speedometer (A);

note the mounting bracket attachment (B)...

screwdriver or probe into the release hole on the underside of the lever

bracket, press up on the retaining prong and pull out the switch.

6 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. The brake

lever switch isnt adjustable.

Rear brake pedal switch

Refer to illustration 12.8

7 Unplug the electrical connector in the switch harness.

8 Unhook the switch spring (see illustration).

9 Compress the retainer prongs and slide the switch out of the

bracket (see illustration 12.8).

10 Install the switch by reversing the removal procedure, then adjust

the switch by following the procedure described in Chapter 1.

13 Speedometer and cable - removal and installation

Speedometer cable removal

Refer to illustrations 13.1 and 13.2

1 Unscrew the speedometer cable end and pull the cable from the

speedometer (see illustration). If necessary for access, lower the

headlight assembly (see Section 9).