Haynes Yamaha Xv V Twins Manual

							
1-24 
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

23.10 Remove the steering stem bolt and

lift off the upper triple clamp 
23.11 Turn the ring nut to adjust steering

head bearing play 
23.17 Loosen the upper ring nut and

adjust steering head bearing play with the

lower ring nut

All models

19 Start the engine and let it run until it reaches normal operating

temperature.

20 Make sure there are no leaks in the vacuum gauge or manometer

setup, as false readings will result.

21 Start the engine and make sure the idle speed is correct. If it isnt,

adjust it (see Section 19).

22 The vacuum readings for both of the cylinders should be the

same, or at least within the tolerance listed in this Chapters Specifi-

cations. If the vacuum readings vary, adjust as necessary.

23 To perform the adjustment, synchronize the carburetors by

turning the synchronizing screw, as needed, until the vacuum is

identical or nearly identical for both cylinders (see illustration 20.9).

Snap the throttle open and shut 2 or 3 times, then recheck the

adjustment and readjust as necessary,

24 When the adjustment is complete, recheck the vacuum readings

and idle speed, then stop the engine. Remove the vacuum gauge or

manometer and reinstall all parts removed for access.

21 Crankcase ventilation system - inspection

Inspect the hose that runs from the ventilation fitting on the top of

the engine to the air filter case. Make sure its securely attached.

Replace the hose if its cracked or deteriorated.

22 Exhaust system - check

1 Periodically check all of the exhaust system joints for leaks and

loose fasteners. If tightening the clamp bolts fails to stop any leaks,

replace the gaskets with new ones (a procedure which requires

disassembly of the system).

2 The exhaust pipe flange nuts at the cylinder heads are especially

prone to loosening, which could cause damage to the head. Check

them frequently and keep them tight.

23 Steering head bearings - check, adjustment and

lubrication

1 All XV535 models and 1981 through 1983 models use ball

bearings in the steering head. 1984 and later models are equipped with

tapered roller type steering head bearings. Both types can become

dented, rough or loose during normal use of the machine. In extreme

cases, worn or loose steering head bearings can cause steering

wobble that is potentially dangerous. 
Check

2 To check the bearings, support the motorcycle securely and

block the machine so the front wheel is in the air.

3 Point the wheel straight ahead and slowly move the handlebars

from side-to-side. Dents or roughness in the bearing races will be felt

and the bars will not move smoothly.

4 Next, grasp the wheel and try to move it forward and backward.

Any looseness in the steering head bearings will be felt as front-to-rear

movement of the fork legs. If play is felt in the bearings, adjust the

steering head as follows.

Adjustment

XV535 models

Refer to illustrations 23.10 and 23.11

5 Remove the headlight lens (see Chapter 8). Label and disconnect

the wiring connectors inside the headlight body. Remove the two bolts

that secure the headlight assembly to the lower triple clamp and pull

the assembly (together with the turn indicator brackets) down out of

the way.

6 Remove the upper triple clamp bolts, together with the cable

guides (see Chapter 5).

7 Remove the brake master cylinder (see Chapter 6).

8 Remove the safety clips, nuts and washers that secure the

handlebar brackets to the upper triple clamp (see Chapter 5). Lift the

handlebar and bracket assembly away from the motorcycle. Separate

the indicator light assembly from the handle bracket and lower it out of

the way.

9 Unbolt the speedometer bracket and move the speedometer out

of the way (see Chapter 8).

10 Remove the steering stem nut and the upper triple clamp (see

illustration).

11 Loosen the steering head ring nut all the way (see illustration).

12 Attach the ring nut wrench to a torque wrench so they form a right

angle. Tighten the ring nut to the initial torque listed in this Chapters

Specifications, then loosen it all the way again.

13 Retighten the ring nut to the final torque listed in this Chapters

Specifications.

14 Turn the steering from lock to lock and check for binding. If there

is any, remove the bearings for inspection (see Chapter 5).

15 If the steering operates properly, reinstall all parts previously

removed. Tighten the steering stem nut, triple clamp bolts and

handlebar nuts to the torques listed in the Chapter 5 Specifications.

1981 through 1983 XV750 through 1000 models

Refer to illustration 23.17

16 Loosen the pinch bolt that passes through the rear side of the

upper triple clamp. 
						

							
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-25

25.6 The fuel tap is secured to the tank by

two screws 
25.7 Examine and clean the filter stack 
25.8 Inspect the fuel tap diaphragm

17 Beneath the upper triple clamp are two ring nuts (see

illustration). Loosen the upper one with a spanner wrench (C-spanner)

so the lower nut is free to turn.

18 Tighten the lower ring nut a little at a time just enough to remove

any front-to-rear play in the steering head. Caution: Dont overtighten

the nut.

19 To check the adjustment, place the handlebars in their center

position, then move them all the way to right and left. With the front

wheel off the ground, the handlebar should move all the way from

center to the left or right stop with just a tap. If it takes more effort than

this. the bearings are too tight.

1984 and later XV700 through 1000 models

20 Remove the seat (see Chapter 7) and the fuel tank (see Chapter 3).

21 Remove the lower screw from the headlight assembly.

22 Loosen the upper triple clamp bolts (see Chapter 5). This allows

the necessary vertical movement of the steering stem in relation to the

fofk tubes.

23 Remove the handlebars and upper triple clamp (see Chapter 5).

24 Remove the lockwasher from the ring nuts.

25 Use a ring nut wrench (Yamaha tool no. YU-33975/part no.

90890-01430 or equivalent) to remove the upper ring nut.

26 Carefully tighten the lower ring nut to the initial torque listed in this

Chapters Specifications, then loosen it all the way and retighten to the

final torque listed in this Chapters Specifications.

27 Turn the steering from lock to lock and check for binding. If there

is any, remove the bearings for inspection (see Chapter 7).

28 If the steering operates properly, install the upper ring nut. Tighten

the upper ring nut with fingers so its slots align with those of the lower

ring nut (dont allow the lower ring nut to turn). If necessary, use the

ring nut wrench to keep the lower ring nut from turning while you

tighten the upper ring nut.

29 Install the lockwasher with its tabs in the ring nut slots.

30 Recheck the steering head bearings for play as described above,

if necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure. Reinstall all parts

previously removed. Tighten the steering stem nut and triple clamp

bolts to the torques listed in the Chapter 5 Specifications.

Lubrication

31 Periodic cleaning and repacking of the steering head bearings is

recommended by the manufacturer. Refer to Chapter 5 for steering

head bearing lubrication and replacement procedures.

24 Fasteners - check

1 Since vibration of the machine tends to loosen fasteners, all nuts,

bolts, screws, etc. should be periodically checked for proper tightness. 
2 Pay particular attention to the following:

Sparkplugs

Engine oil drain plug

Oil filter cover bolt and drain plug

Gearshift pedal (and linkage, if equipped)

Footpegs, sidestand and centerstand (if equipped)

Engine mounting bolts

Shock absorber or rear suspension unit mounting bolts

Front axle (or axle nut) and axle pinch bolt

Rear axle nut

3 If a torque wrench is available, use it along with the torque specifi-

cations at the beginning of this, or other. Chapters.

25 Fuel system - check and filter cleaning or replacement

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions

when you work on any part of the fuel system. Dont smoke or allow

open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and dont work in a

garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or

clothes dryer) is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it ofl

immediately with soap and-water. When you perform any kind of work

on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a class B type fire

extinguisher on hand.

1 Check the fuel tank, the tank breather hose, the fuel tap, the lines

and the carburetors for leaks and evidence of damage.

2 If carburetor gaskets are leaking, the carburetors should be

disassembled and rebuilt (see Chapter 5).

3 If the fuel tap is leaking, tightening the screws may help. If

leakage persists, the tap should be disassembled and repaired or

replaced with a new one.

4 If the fuel lines are cracked or otherwise deteriorated, replace

them with new ones.

Fuel tap filter cleaning

Refer to illustrations 25.6, 25.7 and 25.8

5 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 3).

6 Remove the fuel tap screws and detach it from the tank (see

illustration).

7 Clean the filter stack (see illustration). If its torn or cant be

cleaned completely, replace it.

8 Remove the screws and inspect the fuel tap diaphragm (see

illustration). If its torn, cracked or brittle, replace it.

9 Reverse Steps 5 through 8 to assemble and install the fuel tap.

In-line filter replacement

Refer to illustration 25.11

10 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 5). 
						

							
1-26

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

25.11 Loosen the clamp and

disconnect the hose at each end of the

filter, then remove it from its bracket 
26.3 Check above and below the fork

seals (arrow) for signs

of oil leakage 
27.3 The linkage arms should be at right angles

to the rod

27.4 Loosen the locknuts and rotate the

rod to change its length; on some models,

the front nut has left-hand threads

(loosens clockwise) 
28.6a If theres an air hose between the

forks, add air through the air charging

valve on the side 
28.6b Use an accurate gauge when

measuring fork air pressure

11 Disconnect the lines from the filter and remove it from its bracket

(see illustration).

12 Install a new filter and reconnect the lines.

26 Suspension - check

Refer to illustration 26.3

1 The suspension components must be maintained in top operating

condition to ensure rider safety. Loose, worn or damaged suspension

parts decrease the vehicles stability and control.

2 While standing alongside the motorcycle, lock the front brake and

push on the handlebars to compress the forks several times. See if

they move up-and-down smoothly without binding. If binding is felt,

the forks should be disassembled and inspected as described in

Chapter 5.

3 Carefully inspect the area around the fork seals for any signs of

fork oil leakage (see illustration). If leakage is evident, the seals must

be replaced as described in Chapter 5.

4 Check the tightness of all suspension nuts and bolts to be sure

none have worked loose.

5 Inspect the shock for fluid leakage and tightness of the mounting

nuts. If leakage is found, the shock should be replaced.

6 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure. Grab the swingarm on each side, just ahead of the axle.

Rock the swingarm from side to side - there should be no discernible

movement at the rear. If theres a little movement or a slight clicking

can be heard, make sure the pivot bolt or shafts are tight. If theyre

tight but movement is still noticeable, the swingarm will have to be 
removed and the bearings replaced as described in Chapter 5.

7 Inspect the tightness of the rear suspension nuts and bolts (refer

to the Chapter 5 Specifications).

27 Shift linkage adjustment

Refer to illustrations 27.3 and 27.4

1 Models with a rear set shift linkage can be adjusted by changing

the length of the linkage rod.

2 If youre working on an XV535 model, measure shift pedal height

and compare it to the value listed in this Chapters Specifications.

3 Check the alignment of the shift pedal arm and the arm at the

other end of the linkage with the linkage rod. The two arms should be

at right angles to the rod (see illustration).

4 To adjust, loosen the locknuts and turn the linkage rod to change

its length, then tighten the locknuts (see illustration). Note: On some

models the front nut has left-hand threads (loosens clockwise).

28 Suspension adjustments

1 Suspension settings can be adjusted on some models. Note: The

forks must be in good condition with seals that dont leak in order to

make accurate adjustments. Warning: The front fork air pressure, the

fork- damping settings (if equipped) and the rear shock absorber

settings (twin-shock models) must be even to prevent unstable

handling.

2 On 1981 through 1983 models, front fork air pressure is 
						

							
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-27

adjustable. On XV920 models, front fork damping is also adjustable.

rear suspension unit damping and air pressure are adjustable.

3 On 1984 and later XV700 and 750 models, front fork air pressure

and rear spring preload are adjustable.

4 On 1984 and later XV1000 and 1100 models, front fork air

pressure is adjustable. Rear spring preload and rear shock absorber

damping are also adjustable.

1981 through 1983 models

Refer to illustrations 28.6a, 28.6b, 28.6c, 28.8, 28.9a and 28.9b

5 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure. Raise the front wheel off the ground.

6 On models with separate air charging valves mounted in the tops

of the forks, remove the rubber cap from each front fork. If theres an 
air hose connecting the two forks (see illustration), remove the plastic

cap from the air charging valve. Measure fork air pressure with an

accurate gauge (see illustrations).

7 To reduce air pressure, hold down the pirj. i{\ the center of the air

charging valve with a small screwdriver or similar tool. To add air, use a

hand pump. Dont use a compressor or a service station air hose; they

will add air too quickly.

8 If youre working on an XV920J model, turn the damping adjuster

knob on each fork to change the setting (see illustration).

9 Remove the air valve cap from the rear suspension units remote

adjuster and check air pressure with an accurate gauge (see

illustration). Add or remove air as needed. If necessary, change the

damping setting by turning the adjuster knob. If theres excessive

freeplay in the knob, remove the seat and correct it with the cable

adjusters (see illustration).

Front fork

Air pressure

0.4 ~ 0.8 kg/cm2

(5.7-11.4 psi)

0.8 ~ 1.2 kg/cm2

(11.4 ~ 17.1 psi) 
Rear shock absorber

Air pressure

1.0 ~ 2.0 kg/cm2

(14.2 -28.4 psi)

3.0 ~ 4.0 kg/cm2

(42.7 - 56.9 psi)

4,0 kg/cm2

(56.9 psi) 
Damping

adjuster

1 ~3

3,4

4,5

6 
Loading condition

Solo rider

O- 
With

passenger

O 
With accessory

equipments

O 
With accessory

equipments

and passenger

O

XV750SE, H and J models

Front fork

Air pressure

0.4 - 0.8 kg/cm2

(5.7-11.4 psi)

0.6 -1.0 kg/cm2

(8.5 -14.2 psi)

0.8 ~ 1.2 kg/cm2

(11.4-17.1 psi) 
Rear shock absorber

Air pressure

1.0-2.0 kg/cm2

(14.2-28.4 psi)

2.0 ~ 3.0 kg/cm2

(28.4-42.7 psi)

3.0 - 4.0 kg/cm2

(42.7 - 56.9 psi)

4.0 kg/cm2

(56.9 psi) 
Damping

adjuster

1,2

2,3

4,5

5,6 
Loading condition

Solo rider

O 
With

passenger

O 
With accessory

equipments

O 
With accessory

equipments

and passenger

O 
28.8 XV920J fork damping is adjusted

with a knob on top of each fork

1 Adjusting knob

2 Index mark

XV920 RH, RJ andTRI models

Front fork

Air pressure

39.2 - 78.5 kPa

(0.4-0.8 kg/cm2,

5.7 - 11 psi)

78.5- 118 kPa

10.8-1.2 kg/cm2,

11-17 psi) 
Damping

adjuster

1

2

3

4 
Rear shock absorber

Air pressure

98.1 - 196 kPa

(1.0-2.0 kg/cm2,

14-28 psi)

196~294kPa

(2.0~3.0 kg/cm2,

28-43 psi)

294 - 392 kPa

(3.0 - 4.0 kg/cm2,

43-57 psi)

392 kPa

(4.0 kg/cm2,

57 psi) 
Damping

adjuster

1,2,3

3,4

4,5

6 
Loading condition

Solo rider

O 
With

passenger

O 
With

accessory

equipments

O 
With accesso-

ry equip-

ments and

passenger

O

28.9a Air pressure and damping for the

rear suspension unit on 1981 through

1983 models are adjusted with this unit

28.6c Suspension settings (1981 through 1983 models) 
						

							
1-28

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

28.9b Take up excessive freeplay with the cable adjusters 
28.12a Adjust rear spring preload on 1984 and later XV700

and 750 models with the adjuster on the bottom of each

shock absorber

Front fork

Air pressure

1

2

3

4 
39.2 ~ 78.5 kPa

(0.4-0.8 kg/cm2,

5.7-11.4 psi)

39.2 ~ 78.5 kPa

(0.4-0.8 kg/cm2,

5.7-11.4 psi)

58.8 - 98.1 kPa

(0.6-1.0 kg/cm2,

8.5-14.2 psi)

78.5-117.7 kPa

(0.8-1.2 kg/cm2,

11.4-17.1 psi) 
Rear shock absorber

Spring seat

1-2

3-5

3-5

5 
Damping

adjuster

1 -2

2-3

3-4

4 
Loading condition

Solo rider

O , 
With passenger

O 
With accessories,

and equipment

O 
With accessories,

equipment,

and passenger

O 
28.12b Suspension

settings (1984 and

later models)

1984 and later models

Refer to illustrations 28.12a, 28.12b, 28.13a and 28.13b

10 Remove the air valve cap from the side of the fork and check air

pressure with an accurate gauge.

11 To reduce fork air pressure, hold down the pin in the center of the

air charging valve with a small screwdriver or similar tool. To add air,

use a hand pump. Dont use a compressor or a service station air

hose; they will add air too quickly. 
12 If youre working on an XV700 or 750, adjust rear spring preload

by turning the adjuster on the bottom of each shock absorber (see

illustrations).

13 If youre working on an XV1000 or 1100, turn the adjuster at the

bottom of each shock absorber to set spring preload (see illustration).

Turn the adjuster at the top of each shock to adjust damping (see

illustration). Note: Dont leave the damping adjuster between

positions or it will automatically adjust to the stiffest setting.

28.13a Adjust rear spring preload on 1984 and later XV1000

and 1100 models with the adjuster on the bottom of each

shock absorber 
28.13b Adjust rear shock absorber damping on 1984 and later

XV1000 and 1100 models with the adjuster on the top of each

shock absorber 
						

							
2A-1

Chapter 2 Part A

Engine, clutch and transmission

(XV535 models)

Contents

Section

Alternator rotor - removal and installation See Chapter 8

Cam chains and dampers - removal, inspection

and installation , 17

Camshaft chain tensioners - removal and installation 7

Clutch cable - replacement 15

Clutch and primary gears - removal, inspection

and installation 16

Compression test See Chapter 1

Connecting rods and bearings - removal, inspection,

bearing selection and installation 26

Crankcase components - inspection and servicing 23

Crankcase - disassembly and reassembly 22

Crankshaft and main bearings - removal, inspection,

main bearing selection and installation 25

Cylinder head and valves - disassembly, inspection

and reassembly 10

Cylinder heads, camshafts and rocker arms - removal,

inspection and installation 8

Cylinders - removal, inspection and installation 11

Engine disassembly and reassembly - general information 6

Engine - removal and installation 5 
Section

External shift mechanism - removal, inspection

and installation . 20

General information 1

Idler gears - removal, inspection and installation 14

Initial start-up after overhaul 29

Main and connecting rod bearings - general note 24

Major engine repair - general note 4

Middle driven gear - removal, inspection and installation 21

Oil and filter change See Chapter 1

Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation 18

Oil strainer - removal, inspection and installation 19

Operations possible with the engine in the frame 2

Operations requiring engine removal 3

Piston rings - installation 13

Pistons - removal, inspection and installation 12

Recommended break-in procedure..... 30

Shift cam and forks - removal, inspection and installation 27

Spark plug replacement See Chapter 1

Starter clutch - removal, inspection and installation See Chapter 8

Transmission shafts and middle drive gear - removal, disassembly,

inspection, reassembly and installation 28

Valves/valve seats/valve guides - servicing 9 
						

							
2A-2 
Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models)

Specifications

General

Bore x stroke 76 x 59 mm (2.992 x 2.323 inches)

Displacement 535 cc

Compression ratio 9.0 to 1

Camshafts

Lobe height

Intake (standard) 39.73 mm (1.564 inch)

Intake (limit) 39.63 mm (1.560 inch)

Exhaust (standard) 39.77 mm (1.566 inch)

Exhaust (limit) 39.67 mm (1.562 inch)

Base circle

Intake (standard) 32.22 mm (1.269 inch)

Intake (limit) 31.22 mm (1.229 inch)

Exhaust (standard) 32.30 mm (1.272 inch)

Exhaust (limit) 31.30 mm (1.232 inch)

Bearing oil clearance 0.020 to 0.061 mm (0.0008 to 0.0024 inch)

Journal diameter 27.96 to 27.98 mm (1.100 to 1.102 inch)

Bearing bore 28.00 to 28.02 mm (1.102 to 1.103 inch)

Camshaft runout limit 0.03 mm (0.0012 inch)

Cylinder head, valves and valve springs

Cylinder head warpage limit 0.03 mm (0.0012 inch)

Valve stem bend limit .. 0.03 mm (0.0012 inch)

Valve head diameter

Intake 36.9 to 37.1 mm (1.453 to 1.461 inch)

Exhaust 31.9 to 32.1 mm (1.256 to1.264 inch)

Valve stem diameter

Intake 6.975 to 6.990 mm (0.274 to 0.275 inch)

Exhaust 6.960 to 6.975 mm (0.273 to 0.274 inch)

Valve head edge thickness (intake and exhaust)

Standard 1.0 to 1.4 mm (0.04 to 0.06 inch)

Limit 0.7 mm (0.028 inch)

Valve guide inside diameter (intake and exhaust)

Standard 7.000 to 7.012 mm (0.275 to 0.276 inch)

Limit 7.05 mm (0.278 inch)

Valve seat width (intake and exhaust)

Standard 1.0 to 1.2 mm (0.04 to 0.05 inch)

Limit 1.4 mm (0.055 inch)

Valve face width (intake and exhaust) 2.3 mm (0.09 inch)

Valve inner spring free length (intake and exhaust)

Standard 39.9 mm (1.571 inch)

Limit 37.7 mm (1.48 inch)

Valve inner spring installed length (intake and exhaust) 34.1 mm (1.343 inch)

Valve inner spring compressed pressure at installed length 9.5 to 11.1 kg (21.0 to 24.5 lbs)

Valve inner spring bend limit :t 1.7 mm (0.067 inch)

Valve outer spring free length (intake and exhaust)

Standard 43.6 mm (1.717 inch)

Limit 41.4 mm 1.630 inch)

Valve outer spring installed length (intake and exhaust) 37.1 mm (1.46 inch)

Valve outer spring compressed pressure at installed length 18.7 to 21.9 kg (41.2 to 48.3 lbs)

Valve outer spring bend limit 1.9 mm (0.075 inch)

Cylinders

Bore diameter 75.98 to 76.02 mm (2.991 to 2.993 inch)

Bore measuring point 40 mm (1.57 inch) from top of cylinder

Taper and out-of-round limit...... 0.05 mm (0.002 inch)

Pistons

Piston diameter

Standard 75.92to 75.97 mm (2.989 to 2.991 inches)

First oversize 76.50 mm (3,012 inches)

Second oversize 77.00 mm (3.031 inches)

Diameter measuring point 3.5 mm (0.14 inch) from bottom of skirt 
a

C 
						

							
Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models)

2A-3

Piston-to-cylinder clearance

Standard 0.035 to 0.055 mm (0.0014 to 0.0022 inch)

Limit 0.1 mm (0.004 inch)

Ring side clearance

Top ring

Standard 0.03 to 0.07 mm (0.001 to 0.003 inch)

Limit . 0.12 mm (0.005 inch)

Second ring

Standard 0.02 to 0.06 mm (0.0008 to 0.0024 inch)

Maximum 0.12 mm (0.005 inch)

Oil ring Not specified

Ring thickness

Top ring 1.2 mm (0.05 inch)

Middle ring .... 1.5 mm (0.06 inch)

Oil ring (spacer and rails) 2.5 mm (0.10 inch)

Ring end gap (standard)

Top and second rings 0.30 to 0.45 mm (0.012 to 0.018 inch)

Oil ring 0.2 to 0.8 mm (0.008 to 0.031 inch)

Ring end gap (limit)

Top ring . 0.7 mm (0.028 inch)

Second ring 0.8 mm (0.031 inch)

Oil ring Not specified

Ring width

Top ring 2.9 mm (0.11 inch)

Second ring 3.2 mm (0.13 inch)

Oil ring 3.1 mm (0.12 inch)

Crankshaft, connecting rods and bearings

Main bearing oil clearance 0.020 to 0.052 mm (0.0008 to 0.0020 inch)

Connecting rod side clearance 0.27 to 0.42 mm (0.011 to 0.017 inch)

Connecting rod bearing oil clearance 0.026 to 0.052 mm (0.001 to 0.002 inch)

Crankshaft runout limit 0.03 mm (0.0012 inch)

Oil pump

Inner to outer rotor clearance limit 0.17 mm (0.007 inch)

Outer rotor to housing clearance limit 0.08 mm (0.003 inch)

Clutch

Friction plate thickness

Standard 2.9 to 3.1 mm (0.114 to 0.122 inch)

Minimum 2.6 mm (0.102 inch)

Steel plate thickness 1.5 to 1.7 mm (0.060 to 0.067 inch)

Steel plate warpage limit 0.2 mm (0.008 inch)

Pushrod bend limit 0.5 mm (0.02 inch)

Spring length

Standard . 39.5 mm (1.56 inch)

Minimum 38.5 mm (1.52 inch)

Transmission

Driveshaft and mainshaft runout limit 0.06 mm (0.0024 inch)

Torque specifications

Alternator cover bolts 10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

Alternator rotor bolt see Chapter 8

Cam chain damper stopper bolts 10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

Cam chain tensioner bolts 12 Nm (8.7 ft-lbs)

Cam chain tensioner cap 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)

Cam sprocket bolt . 55 Nm (40 ft-lbs)

Camshaft retainer bolts 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)

Cam sprocket cover bolts 10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

Camshaft segment (5 mm screw) 4 Nm (2.9 ft-lbs)

Clutch adjuster locknut . 8 Nm (5.8 ft-lbs)

Clutch boss nut 70 Nm (50 ft-lbs) (4)

Clutch cover bolts 10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

Clutch pressure plate screws 8 Nm (5.8 ft-lbs) 
						

							
2A-4 
Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models)

Torque specifications (continued)

Clutch push lever screw 12 Nm (8.7 ft-lbs)

Connecting rod nuts 36 Nm (25 ft-lbs) (2)

Crankcase bolts (6 mm) 10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

Crankcase bolts (8 mm) 24 Nm (17 ft-lbs)

Crankcase studs (8 mm) 13 Nm (9.4 ft-lbs)

Crankcase studs (10 mm) 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)

Cylinder bolt 10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

Cylinder head bolts (8 mm).... 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)

Cylinder head nuts (8 mm).... 35 Nm (25 ft-lbs)

Cylinder head flange nuts (8 mm) 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)

Cylinder head side cover bolts 10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

Driveaxle bearing retainer screws 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) (3)

Middle drive gear assembly bolts 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)

Middle drive gear locknut 120 Nm (85 ft-lbs) (3)

Oil passage housing bolts 10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

Oil pump bolts 7 Nm (5.1 ft-lbs)

Primary drive gear nut 70 Nm (50 ft-lbs) (4)

Rocker arm cover bolts 10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

Rocker arm shaft holding bolts 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs) (1)

Shift lever 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs) (4)

1 Use new sealing washers.

2 Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the threads and nut surfaces; follow special tightening procedures in the text.

3 Stake after installation.

4 Use a new lockwasher.

1 General information

The engine/transmission unit is an air-cooled V-twin. The valves

are operated by overhead camshafts which are chain driven off the

crankshaft. The engineAransmission assembly is constructed from

aluminum alloy. The crankcase is divided vertically.

The crankcase incorporates a wet sump, pressure-fed lubrication

system which uses a gear-driven oil pump and an oil filter mounted in

the right-hand side of the crankcase.

Power from the crankshaft is routed to the transmission via the

clutch, which is of the coil spring, wet multi-plate type and is gear-

driven off the crankshaft. The transmission is a five-speed,

constant-mesh unit.

2 Operations possible with the engine in the frame

The components and assemblies listed below can be removed without

having to remove the engine from the frame. If, however, a number of

areas require attention at the same time, removal of the engine is

recommended.

Starter motor

Alternator

Starter clutch

Cam sprockets

Clutch and primary drive gear

Oil pump

External shift linkage

3 Operations requiring engine removal

It is necessary to remove the engine/transmission assembly from 
the frame to gain access to the following components:

 Cylinder heads, rocker arms and camshafts

Cam chains and lower (crankshaft) sprockets

Oil pump

The crankcase halves must be separated to gain access to the

following components:

Crankshaft, connecting rods and bearings

Transmission shafts

Shift cam and forks

4 Major engine repair - general note

1 It is not always easy to determine when or if an engine should be

completely overhauled, as a number of factors must be considered.

2 High mileage is not necessarily an indication that an overhaul is

needed, while low mileage, on the other hand, does not preclude the

need for an overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably the single

most important consideration. An engine that has regular and frequent

oil and filter changes, as well as other required maintenance, will most

likely give many miles of reliable service. Conversely, a neglected

engine, or one which has not been broken in properly, may require an

overhaul very early in its life.

3 Exhaust smoke and excessive oil consumption are both

indications that piston rings and/or valve guides are in need of

attention. Make sure oil leaks are not responsible before deciding that

the rings and guides are bad. Refer to Chapter 1 and perform a

cylinder compression check to determine for certain the nature and

extent of the work required.

4 If the engine is making obvious knocking or rumbling noises, the

connecting rod and/or main bearings are probably at fault.

5 Loss of power, rough running, excessive valve train noise and

high fuel consumption rates may also point to the need for an overhaul,

especially if they are all present at the same time. If a complete tune-up 
						

							
Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models)

2A-5

5.16 Squeeze the hose clamp and pull the

breather hose off its fitting 
5.18 Remove the Allen bolt and

disconnect the ground wire, then loosen

the Allen bolts that secure wiring harness

retainers (arrows; two of four bolts shown)

and release the harness from the retainers 
5.21 Pull the driveshaft rubber boot away

from the middle gear

does not remedy the situation, major mechanical work is the only

solution.

6 An engine overhaul generally involves restoring the internal parts

to the specifications of a new engine. During an overhaul the piston

rings are replaced and the cylinder walls are bored and/or honed. If a

rebore is done, then new pistons are also required. The main and

connecting rod bearings are generally replaced with new ones and, if

necessary, the crankshaft is also replaced. Generally the valves are

serviced as well, since they are usually in less than perfect condition at

this point. While the engine is being overhauled, other components

such as the carburetors and the starter motor can be rebuilt also. The

end result should be a like-new engine that will give as many trouble

free miles as the original.

7 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through all of the

related procedures to familiarize yourself with the scope and

requirements of the job. Overhauling an engine is not all that difficult,

but it is time consuming. Plan on the motorcycle being tied up for a

minimum of two weeks. Check on the availability of parts and make

sure that any necessary special tools, equipment and supplies are

obtained in advance.

8 Most work can be done with typical shop hand tools, although a

number of precision measuring tools are required for inspecting parts

to determine if they must be replaced. Often a dealer service

department or motorcycle repair shop will handle the inspection of

parts and offer advice concerning reconditioning and replacement. As

a general rule, time is the primary cost of an overhaul so it doesnt pay

to install worn or substandard parts.

9 As a final note, to ensure maximum life and minimum trouble from

a rebuilt engine, everything must be assembled with care in a

spotlessly clean environment.

5 Engine - removal and installation

Note: Engine removal and installation should be done with the aid of an

assistant to avoid damage or injury that could occur if the engine is

dropped. A hydraulic floor jack should be used to support and lower

the engine if possible (they can be rented at low cost).

Removal

Refer to illustrations 5.16, 5.18, 5.21, 5.24 and 5.25a through 5.25f 
1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure. Place a support under the swingarm pivot and be sure the

motorcycle is safely braced.

2 Remove the top cover and upper fuel tank (if equipped) (see

Chapter 3).

3 Remove the left front side cover and its bracket (see Chapter 7).

4 Remove the right front side cover (see Chapter 7). Unbolt the

electrical component board thats mounted beneath the cover, then

disconnect the electrical connectors and carburetor hoses and remove

the cover mounting plate (see Chapter 7).

5 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).

6 Remove the carburetors (see Chapter 3) and plug the intake

openings with clean shop towels.

7 Remove the exhaust system (see Chapter 3).

8 Disconnect the brake light switch wires (see Chapter 8).

9 Unscrew the rear brake adjuster all the way, then remove the

spring and brake rod (see Chapter 6).

10 Check for alignment marks on the shift shaft and shift lever (see

Section 20). If they arent visible, make your own marks with a sharp

punch. Loosen the pinch bolt and slip the shift lever off the shaft.

11 Remove the shift pedal and left footpeg bracket as an assembly

(see Chapter 7).

12 Remove the right footpeg bracket (see Chapter 7).

13 Remove the sidestand (see Chapter 7).

14 Remove the sidestand switch (see Chapter 8).

15 Remove the cylinder head side covers from the front and rear

cylinders, then disconnect the spark plug wires (HT leads) (see Spark

plugs - replacement in Chapter 1).

16 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the rear cylinder

head (see illustration).

17 Disconnect the clutch cable (see Section 15).

18 Disconnect the ground wire from the right rear of the engine (see

illustration). Loosen the right crankcase cover (clutch cover) Allen

bolts and free the starter motor wiring harness from the retainers along

the bottom of the crankcase.

19 Remove the horn (see Chapter 8).

20 Pull back the ignition coil cover and disconnect the primary (low

tension) electrical connectors (see Chapter 4, part A.)

21 Pull the rubber driveshaft boot away from the engine (see

illustration).

22 Remove the alternator cover. Remove the stator and pick-up coil

assembly (see Chapter 8).