Haynes Yamaha Xv V Twins Manual

							
5B-22 
Chapter 5 Part B Steering, suspension and final drive (XV700-1100 models)

13.16 Chain case internal rib measurement

1 Chain case 2 Rib height 
13.18 The engine sprocket is secured by

two bolts and a lockwasher 
13.35 Coat the mating surface of the

engine sprocket housing with

silicone sealant

16 Check the chain cases for cracks or.brittleness and replace as

necessary. Measure the height of the internal ribs and compare it to

the value listed in this Chapters Specifications (see illustration). If the

ribs are worn, replace the chain cases.

17 Check the sprocket housings for cracks or other damage and

replace as necessary. Make sure the breather on the engine sprocket

housing is clear of obstructions.

Sprocket replacement

Refer to illustration 13.18

18 To replace the engine sprocket, flatten the tabs on the

lockwashers and remove the sprocket bolts (see illustration). Slide

the sprocket off and install the new one. Install a new lockwasher, 
tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications,

then bend the lockwasher tabs against the bolts.

19 To replace the rear sprocket, loosen the lockwasher tabs (see

illustration 6.5c in Chapter 6, Part B). Remove the nuts ana

lockwashers and lift off the sprocket. Install the new sprocket and nev,

lockwashers. Tighten the sprocket evenly, in a criss-cross pattern tc

the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications, then bend the

lockwasher tabs against the nuts.

Coupling bearing replacement

20 Remove the bearing snap-ring from the coupling (see illustration

6.5c in Chapter 6, Part B).

21 Pry out the grease seal and remove the spacer.

14.7a Swingarm (1981 through 1983 shaft

drive models) - exploded view

7 Swingarm

2 Pivot bolt

3 Lockwasher

4 Dust cap

5 Thrust washer

6 Bearing

7 Bushing

8 Viewing plug

9 Rubber boot

10 Axle pinch bolt

11 Lockwasher

12 Final drive housing bolt

13 Nut 
						

							
Chapter 5 Part B Steering, suspension and final drive (XV700-1100 models)

5B-23

14.7b The pivot bolt head on 1981 through 1983 shaft drive

models is secured by a lockwasher

22 Lift out the bearing. If it wont come easily, tap it out from the

wheel side of the coupling toward the sprocket side.

23 Pack a new bearing with grease and tap it in from the sprocket

side. Use a bearing driver or a socket that bears against the bearing

outer race.

24 Install the spacer and tap in a new grease seal with its open side

toward the bearing.

25 Install the snap-ring.

Installation

Refer to illustration 13.35

26 To keep the chain from falling on the ground and picking up small

bits of dirt as its installed, place clean rags, newspaper or cardboard

on the ground under the chain run.

27 Apply a light coat of the grease specified for the chain (see

Chapter 1) to the O-ring on the sprocket retaining ring.

28 Assemble the rear sprocket and retainer to the rear sprocket

housing. Be careful not to push the large O-ring out of position when

installing the retainer in the housing.

29 Thread the chain into the top opening in the housing onto the

sprocket. Turn the sprocket and work the chain around and out the

bottom opening.

30 Slip the upper and lower chain cases over the chain, then tie the

ends of the chain together with wire.

31 Slide the upper chain case onto the rear sprocket housing and

tighten its clamp. Dont slide the lower chain case on yet; leave a gap

between the lower chain case and the rear sprocket housing.

32 Turn the rear sprocket so the ends of the chain are in the gap 
between the lower chain case and the rear sprocket. This will provide

access to reconnect the chain permanently.

33 Install the chain cases and rear sprocket housing on the bike,

engaging the chain with the engine sprocket, and tighten their

mounting bolts loosely.

34 Install the soft link and connect the chain with a chain installation

tool. Slide the lower chain case onto the rear sprocket housing and

tighten its clamp.

35 Clean all sealant from the mating surfaces of the engine sprocket

cover and the engine. Coat the cover surface with silicone sealant (see

illustration), then install it on the engine. Tighten the bolts evenly, in a

criss-cross pattern.

36 The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal steps.

37 Adjust the chain tension (see Chapter 1) before you tighten the

chain case and rear sprocket housing bolts.

38 Add the specified grease to the rear sprocket housing filler hole

(see Chapter 1).

39 Test ride the motorcycle and check for leaks.

14 Swingarm - removal, inspection and installation

Removal

1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure.

2 Remove the exhaust system (see Chapter 3).

3 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 6).

4 Remove the rear suspension unit or shock absorbers (see Section

9 or Section 10).

5 If youre working on a shaft drive model, remove the final drive

assembly (see Section 12).

6 If youre working on a chain drive model, the final drive assembly

(chain cases and rear sprocket housing) can be removed together with

the swingarm or removed from the motorcycle first. If youre removing

the swingarm to inspect or replace the bearings, remove the engine

sprocket cover and detach the engine sprocket from the engine, but

leave the rest of the final drive assembly (chain cases and rear

sprocket housing) attached to the swingarm (see Section 13).

1981 through 1983 models

Refer to illustrations 14.7a through 14.7d, 14.8a and 14.8b

7 If youre working on a shaft drive model, bend back the lockwasher

tabs that secure the head of the swingarm pivot bolt (see illustration).

Support the swingarm and remove the pivot bolt (see illustration).

Separate the rubber boot from the engine (see illustration) and remove

the swingarm from the motorcycle (see illustration).

8 If youre working on a chain drive model, remove the nut and plain

washer from the swingarm pivot bolt (see illustrations). Support the

swingarm and remove the pivot bolt, then remove the swingarm from

the motorcycle.

14.7c Detach the rubber boot from

the engine 
14.7d Pull the swingarm rearward so its

ends clear the frame mounting bracket 
14.8a The pivot bolt on chain drive

models is secured by a nut

and plain washer 
						

							
5B-24 
Chapter 5 Part B Steering, suspension and final drive (XV700-1100 models)

14.8b Swingarm (chain drive models) - exploded view

1 Swingarm

2 Pivot bolt

3 Dust cap

4 Thrust washer

5 Bearing

6 Bushing 
7 Pivot bolt nut

8 Washer

9 Bolt

10 Lockwasher

11 Washer

14.12 Check the swingarm for cracks and bending

14.13 If the pivot bolt holes are worn to an oval shape,

replace the swingarm

1984 and later models

9 Pry off the pivot cover on each side of the swingarm (see

illustration 10.2b).

10 Support the swingarm. On the left side, flatten the lockwasher

tabs and unscrew the pivot shaft. On the right side, remove the nut and

the pivot shaft.

11 Detach the swingarm boot from the engine and remove the

swingarm.

Inspection

Refer to illustrations 14.12, 14.13 and 14.14

12 Check the swingarm for obvious damage, such as cracks or

bending and replace it as necessary (see illustration). 
13 Check the swingarm mounting holes for ovaling (see illustration).

14 Check the rubber boot for cracks or deterioration and replace

as necessary (see illustration).

15 Refer to Section 15 and inspect the swingarm bearings. If youre

working on a 1981 through 1983 model, calculate the swingarm side

clearance.

Installation

Refer to illustration 14.16

16 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps, with the following

additions:

a) Use a new lockwasher and be sure its tab engages the slot in the

swingarm. 
						

							
Chapter 5 Part B Steering, suspension and final drive (XV700-1100 models)

5B-25

14.14 Check the rubber boot for hardness or cracks

14.16 Tighten the pivot bolt, then bend the lockwasher

tabs against the bolt head

15.2 Pry the dust caps off the frame

15.3 Pull out the bushing

b) Tighten the pivot bolt, nut or shafts to the torque listed in this

Chapters Specifications (see illustration). On 1984 and later

models, tighten the right side, then the left side. On all shaft drive

models, bend the lockwasher against the flats on the shaft head or

nut (see illustration 10.2b or 14.7b).

c) If youre working on a 1981 through 1983 shaft drive model,

remove the viewing plug from the left side of the swingarm so you

can see the end of the dhveshaft when aligning it with the engine.

15 Swingarm bearings - inspection and replacement

1 Remove the swingarm (see Section 10).

1981 through 1983 models

Refer to illustrations 15.2, 15.3, 15.4, 15.5, 15.6 and 15.7

2 Pry off the thrust cover and remove the plain washer from each

side of the frame (see illustration).

3 Slide the bushing out (see illustration).

4 Inspect the bearings (see illustration). If theyre dry, lubricate

them with lithium base waterproof wheel bearing grease. If theyre

worn or damaged, its best to take the motorcycle to a Yamaha dealer

or motorcycle repair shop for bearing replacement. The bearings can

be tapped out with a long rod inserted from the opposite side of the

bike, but theyll be ruined in the process. The new bearings will also be 
15.4 Clean the needle roller bearings and check them

or wear and damage

ruined when theyre tapped in unless you have a drift that fits precisely

inside the bearings and also has a shoulder that will apply pressure to

the circumference of the bearing. 
						

							
5B-26 
Chapter 5 Part B Steering, suspension and final drive (XV700-1100 models)

15.5 Check the dust cap, thrust washer and seal for

wear and damage

15.6 Swingarm side clearance measurement

(1981 through 1983 models)

A Bushing length

B1 Thrust washer thickness

B2 Thrust washer thickness

C Frame mounting point length
5 Check the dust caps, thrust washers and seals for wear or

damage and replace them as necessary (see illustration).

6 Calculate the swingarm side clearance. Measure the length of the

bushing and the frame crossmember (see illustration). Measure the

thickness of the two thrust washers. Add the thickness of both thrust

washers to the frame crossmember length, then subtract this total

from the length of the bushing to obtain the side clearance; that is, side

clearance = A - (B1 + B2 + C). Compare the measurement to the value

listed in this Chapters Specifications. If the measured clearance is

excessive, replace the thrust washers or bushing, whichever is most

worn.

7 Lubricate the insides of the dust caps with multi-purpose lithium

grease (see illustration).

1984 and later models

8 Remove the bearing collars, then pry the grease seals out (see

illustration 10.2b). Rotate the bearings with a finger and check them

for roughness or looseness. If the bearings need to be replaced,

remove them with a blind hole puller and slide hammer.

9 Pack the new bearings with waterproof wheel bearing grease,

then tap them into position with a bearing driver or socket that bears

against the bearing outer race. Note: If you dont have the necessary

puller and slide hammer, it may be less expensive to have a dealer

service department replace the bearings than to rent the tools.

15.7 Grease the inside of each dust cap 
						

							
6A-1

Chapter 6 Part A

Brakes, wheels and tires (XV535 models)

Contents

Section

Brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation 3

Brake check See Chapter 1

Brake disc - inspection, removal and installation 4

Brake hose - inspection and replacement 7

Brake light switches - check and adjustment See Chapter 1

Brake pads -replacement 2

Brake system bleeding 8

Front brake master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation.. 5

Front wheel - removal and installation 11 
Section

General information 1

Rear drum brakes - removal, overhaul and installation 6

Rear wheel - removal and installation 12

Tubed tires - general information 14

Wheel bearings - inspection and maintenance 13

Wheels and tires - general check See Chapter 1

Wheels - alignment check 10

Wheels - inspection and repair 9

Specifications

Brakes

Brake fluid type See Chapter 1

Front brake disc thickness

Standard 5.0 mm (0.20 inch)

Minimum* 4.5 mm (0.18 inch)

Disc runout limit 0.15 mm (0.006 inch)

Front brake pad thickness (new) 6.2 mm (0.26 inch)

Wear limit 0.8 mm (0.03 inch)

Rear brake drum inside diameter

Standard 200 mm (7.87 inches)

Maximum 201 mm (7.91 inches)

Rear brake shoe lining thickness

Standard 4 mm (0.16 inch)

Minimum 2 mm (0.08 inch)

*Refer to marks stamped into the disc (they supersede information printed here) 
						

							
6A-2 
Chapter 6 Part A Brakes, wheels and tires (XV535 models)

Wheels and tires

Wheel runout

Radial (up-and-down) 2.0 mm (0.08 inch)

Axial (side-to-side) 2.0 mm (0.08 inch)

Tire pressures See Chapter 1

Tire sizes

Front 3.00S-19 4PR

Rear 140/90-15M/C 70S

Torque specifications

Caliper lower mounting bolt (to bracket) 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs)

Caliper bracket bolts (to fork leg) . 35 Nm (25 ft-lbs)

Front axle 58 Nm (42 ft-lbs)

Front axle pinch bolt 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)

Brake disc mounting bolts 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)*

Union (banjo fitting) bolts 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs)

Master cylinder mounting bolts 9 Nm (6.5 ft-lbs)

Rear axle nut

1987 and 1988 models 105 Nm (75 ft-lbs)

1989-on models 107 Nm (77, ft-lbs)

Rear axle pinch bolt 16 Nm (11 ft-lbs)

Rear wheel clutch hub bolts

1987 and 1988 models 69 Nm. (50 ft-lbs)

1989-on models 62 Nm (45 ft-lbs)

Brakerod nuts 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)**

*Use new lockwashers.

**Use new cotter pins.

1 General information

The models covered in this Chapter are equipped with a hydraulic disc

brake at the front and a mechanical drum brake at the rear.

Ail XV535 models are equipped with wire spoke wheels and tubed

tires.

Caution: Disc brake components rarely require disassembly. Do

not disassemble components unless absolutely necessary. If any

hydraulic brake line connection in the system is loosened, the entire

system should be disassembled, drained, cleaned and then properly

filled and bled upon reassembly. Do not use solvents on internal brake

components. Solvents will cause seals to swell and distort. Use only

clean brake fluid, brake cleaner or alcohol for cleaning. Use care when

working with brake fluid as it can injure your eyes and it will damage

painted surfaces and plastic parts. 
2 Brake pads - replacement

Warning: The dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos,

which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air

and dont inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn

when working on the brakes.

Refer to illustrations 2.2a, 2.2b, 2.3a, 2.3b, 2.3c, 2.6a and 2.6b

1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure.

2 Remove the caliper lower mounting bolt (see illustration). Rotate

the caliper up to expose the pads (see illustration).

3 Remove the pads and pad springs (see illustrations). Measure

the amount of friction material left on the pads and replace them as a

pair if worn, fouled with oil or damaged in any way.

4 Check the condition of the brake discs (see Section 4). If they are

2.2a Remove the lower mounting bolt

from the caliper ... 
2.2b ... and pivot the caliper up to expose

the pads 
2.3a Remove the pads; the rounded edge

of each pad (arrow) faces the rear of

the motorcycle 
						

							
Chapter 6 Part A Brakes, wheels and tires (XV535 models)

6A-3

2.3b Remove the pad springs

2.6a Special lubricants are required in the UK (and recommended

anywhere salt is used on the roads) to prevent corrosion

A Apply Duckhams Copper 10 or equivalent to the

shaded areas

B Apply Shin-Etsu G-40M or equivalent silicone grease to

the shaded areas

2.6b Apply the recommended lubricants to the pad friction areas

inside the caliper and to the exposed portion of the

caliper pistons

A Duckhams Copper 10

B Shin-Etsu G-40M or equivalent silicone grease 
2.3c Front brake caliper (XV535 models) - exploded view

1 Caliper mounting bolt 5 Dust seal

2 Bleed valve and cap 6 Piston seal

3 Pad springs 7 Piston

4 Pads 8 Brake disc

in need of machining or replacement, follow the procedure in that

Section to remove them. If they are okay, deglaze them with

sandpaper or emery cloth, using a swirling motion.

5 Remove the cover and diaphragm from the master cylinder

reservoir and siphon out some fluid. Push the pistons into the caliper

as far as possible, while checking the master cylinder reservoir to

make sure it doesnt overflow. If you cant depress the pistons with

thumb pressure, try using a C-clamp (G-clamp). If the piston sticks,

remove the caliper and overhaul it as described in Section 3.

6 Warning: This step is necessary to ensure that the pads move

freely in the calipers. Because a large amount of salt is used on roads in

the UK, special lubrication of the pads and calipers is required. Before

installing the pads on UK models, apply a thin film of Duckhams

Copper 10 or equivalent to the following areas (see illustrations).

a) To the edges of the metal backing on the brake pads

b) To the areas of the caliper where the pads rub

c) To the threads of the caliper mounting bolts.

Apply a thin film of Shin-Etsu G-40M or equivalent silicone grease to

the following:

d) Exposed areas of the caliper pistons

e) The areas sf the pad backing plates that contact the piston: 
						

							
6A-4 
Chapter 6 Part A Brakes, wheels and tires (XV535 models)

3.2a Unscrew the banjo bolt; theres a sealing washer on each

side of the fitting

Caution: Dont use too much Copper 10. Make sure no Copper 10

contacts the brake discs or the pad friction surfaces.

7 Install the pads and springs in the caliper. The rounded edge of

the pad faces the rear of the motorcycle (see illustration 2.3a).

8 Refill the master cylinder reservoir (see Chapter 1) and install the

diaphragm and cover.

9 Operate the brake lever several times to bring the pads into

contact with the disc. Check the operation of the brakes carefully

before riding the motorcycle.

3 Brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation

Warning: If a caliper indicates the need for an overhaul (usually due to

leaking fluid or sticky operation), all old brake fluid should be flushed

from the system. Also, the dust created by the brake system may

contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out

with compressed air and dont inhale any of it. An approved filtering

mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any

circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts.

Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only!

Removal

Refer to illustrations 3.2a, 3.2b and 3.3

1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure.

2 Disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. Remove the brake

hose banjo fitting bolt and separate the hose from the caliper {see

illustrations). Discard the sealing washers. Place the end of the hose

in a container and operate the brake lever to pump out the fluid. Once

this is done, wrap a clean shop rag tightly around the hose fitting to

soak up any drips and prevent contamination.

3 Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts and separate the caliper from

the front fork (see illustration).

Overhaul

Refer to illustrations 3.5a, 3.5b, 3.7 and 3.8

4 Clean the exterior of the caliper with denatured alcohol or brake

system cleaner.

5 Place a few rags between the piston and the caliper frame to act

as a cushion, then use compressed air, directed into the fluid inlet, to

remove the piston (see illustration 2.3c and the accompanying

illustrations). Use only enough air pressure to ease the piston out of

the bore. If a piston is blown out, even with the cushion in place, it may

be damaged. Warning: Never place your fingers in front of the piston in

an attempt to catch or protect it when applying compressed air, as

serious injury could occur. 
3.2b Master cylinder and brake line (XV535 models) -

exploded view

1 Reservoir cover

2 Diaphragm 
3 Piston assembly and-sphn:

4 Sealing washers

6 If compressed air isnt available, reconnect the caliper to th-

brake hose and pump the brake lever until the piston is free.

7 Using a wood or plastic tool, remove the dust seal (see

illustration). Metal tools may damage the bore.

8 Using a wood or plastic tool, remove the piston seal from the

groove in the caliper bore (see illustration).

9 Clean the piston and the bore with denatured alcohol, clean brake

fluid or brake system cleaner and blow dry them with filtered

unlubricated compressed air. Inspect the surfaces of the piston for

nicks and burrs and loss of plating. Check the caliper bore, too. If

surface defects are present, the caliper must be replaced. If the caliper |

is in bad shape, the master cylinder should also be checked.

10 Lubricate the piston seal with clean brake fluid and install it in its 
						

							
Chapter 6 Part A Brakes, wheels and tires (XV535 models) 
6A-5

3.3 Remove the mounting bolts and

separate the caliper from the fork leg 
3.5a Carefully blow air into the fluid outlet

to push the piston out; keep your fingers

out of the way to prevent injury 
3.5b Remove the piston from the bore

3.7 Remove the dust seal with fingers or

a wood or plastic tool 
3.8 Remove the piston seal from its

groove (a toothpick can be used as a

removal tool) 
4.3 Position a dial indicator against

the disc and spin the wheel to

measure runout

groove in the caliper bore. Make sure it isnt twisted and seats

completely.

11 Lubricate the dust seal with clean brake fluid and install it in its

groove, making sure it seats correctly.

12 Lubricate the piston with clean brake fluid and install it into the

caliper bore. Using your thumbs, push the piston all the way in, making

sure it doesnt get cocked in the bore.

13 The caliper body should be able to slide in relation to its mounting

bracket. If its seized or stiff in operation, remove the caliper-to-bracket

lower bolt and slide the body off the brackets slider pin. Inspect the

slider pin and lower bolt for wear and coat them with high-temperature

disc brake grease. If the dust boots are split or cracked, replace them

with new ones.

Installation

14 Install the caliper, tightening the mounting bolts to the torque

listed in this Chapters Specifications.

15 Connect the brake hose to the caliper, using new sealing washers

on each side of the fitting. The neck of the hose union should fit

between the two cast lugs on the caliper body. Tighten the banjo fitting

bolt to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications.

16 Fill the master cylinder with the recommended brake fluid (see

Chapter 1) and bleed the system (see Section 8). Check for leaks.

17 Check the operation of the brakes carefully before riding the

motorcycle. 
4 Brake disc - inspection, removal and installation

Inspection

Refer to illustration 4.3

1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure.

2 Visually inspect the surface of the disc for score marks and other

damage. Light scratches are normal after use and wont affect brake

operation, but deep grooves and heavy score marks will reduce

braking efficiency and accelerate pad wear. If the disc is badly grooved

it must be machined or replaced.

3 To check disc runout, mount a dial indicator to the fork leg with

the plunger on the indicator touching the surface of the disc about 1/2-

inch from the outer edge (see illustration). Slowly turn the wheel and

watch the indicator needle, comparing your reading with the limit listed

in this Chapters Specifications or stamped on the disc itself. If the

runout is greater than allowed, check the hub bearings for play (see

Chapter 1). If the bearings are worn, replace them and repeat this

check. If the disc runout is still excessive, it will have to be replaced.

4 The disc must not be machined or allowed to wear down to a

thickness less than the minimum allowable thickness, listed in this

Chapters Specifications. The thickness of the disc can be checked

with a micrometer. If the thickness of the disc is less than the minimum

allowable, it must be replaced.