Haynes Yamaha Xv V Twins Manual

							
4B-2 
Chapter 4 Part B Ignition system (XV700-1100 models)

1 General information

These motorcycles are equipped with a battery operated, fully

transistorized, breakerless ignition system. The system consists of the

following components:

Pick-up coil(s)

Igniter unit

Battery and fuse

Ignition coils

Spark plugs

Ignition (main), engine kill (stop), sidestand and neutral switches

Primary and secondary (HT) circuit wiring

The transistorized ignition system functions on the same principle

as a breaker point DC ignition systenxwith the pick-up coil or coils and

igniter performing the tasks previously associated with the breaker

points and mechanical advance system. As a result, adjustment and

maintenance of ignition components is eliminated (with the exception

of spark plug replacement). Models through 1990 use two pick-up

coils; 1991 and later models use a single pick-up coil.

Because of their nature, the individual ignition system

components can be checked but not repaired. If ignition system

troubles occur, and the faulty component can be isolated, the only

cure for the problem is to replace the part with a new one. Keep in

mind that most electrical parts, once purchased, cant be returned. To

avoid unnecessary expense, make very sure the faulty component has

been positively identified before buying a replacement part.

2 Ignition system - check

Warning: Because of the very high voltage generated by the ignition

system, extreme care should be taken when these checks are

performed.

1 If the ignition system is the suspected cause of poor engine

performance or failure to start, a number of checks can be made to

isolate the problem.

2 Make sure the engine kill switch is in the Run position.

Engine will not start

3 Disconnect one of the spark plug wires, connect the wire to a

spare spark plug and lay the plug on the engine with the threads

contacting the engine. If necessary, hold the spark plug with an

insulated tool. Crank the engine over and make sure a well-defined,

blue spark occurs between the spark plug electrodes. Warning: Dont

remove one of the spark plugs from the engine to perform this check -

atomized fuel being pumped out of the open spark plug hole could

ignite, causing severe injury!

4 If no spark occurs, the following checks should be made:

5 Unscrew a spark plug cap from a plug wire and lay the plug wire

on the cylinder head. Crank the engine over and check for spark again.

If a strong blue spark occurs between the end of the wire and the

engine, the plug cap or plug is faulty. If not, go to the next steps.

6 Make sure all electrical connectors are clean and tight. Check all

wires for shorts, opens and correct installation.

7 Check the battery voltage with a voltmeter and - on models

equipped with batteries having removable filler caps - check the

specific gravity with a hydrometer (see Chapter 1). If the voltage is less

than 12-volts or if the specific gravity is low, recharge the battery.

8 Check the ignition fuse and the fuse connections. If the fuse is

blown, replace it with a new one; if the connections are loose or

corroded, clean or repair them.

9 Refer to Chapter 8 and check the ignition switch, engine kill

switch, neutral switch and sidestand switch.

10 Refer to Section 3 and check the ignition coil primary and

secondary resistance.

11 Refer to Section 4 and check the pick-up coil resistance.

12 If the preceding checks produce positive results but there is still

no spark at the plug, remove the igniter and have it checked by a 
3.4 To test the coil primary resistance, connect the ohmmeter

leads between the primary terminals in the coil connector

Yamaha dealer service department or other repair shop equipped with

the special tester required.

Engine starts but misfires

13 If the engine starts but misfires, make the following checks before

deciding that the ignition system is at fault.

14 The ignition system must be able to produce a spark across a six

millimeter (1/4-inch) gap (minimum). A simple test fixture (see

illustration 2.14 in Part A of this Chapter) can be constructed to make

sure the minimum spark gap can be jumped. Make sure the fixture

electrodes are positioned six millimeters apart.

15 Connect one of the spark plug wires to the protruding test fixture

electrode, then attach the fixtures alligator clip to a good engine

ground/earth.

16 Crank the engine over (it may start and run on the remaining

cylinder) and see if well-defined, blue sparks occur between the test

fixture electrodes. If the minimum spark gap test is positive, the

ignition coil for that cylinder is functioning properly. Repeat the check

on the spark plug wire that is connected to the other coil. If the spark

will not jump the gap during either test, or if it is weak (orange colored),

refer to steps 5 through 11 of this Section and perform the component

checks described.

3 Ignition coils - check, removal and installation

Check

Refer to illustrations 3.4 and 3.6

1 In order to determine conclusively that the ignition coils are

defective, they should be tested by an authorized Yamaha dealer

service department which is equipped with the special electrical tester

required for this check.

2 However, the coils can be checked visually (for cracks and other

damage) and the primary and secondary coil resistances can be

measured with an ohmmeter. If the coils are undamaged, and if the

resistances are as specified, they are probably capable of proper

operation.

3 To check the coils for physical damage, they must be removed (see

Step 9). To check the resistances, simply remove the ignition coil cover

from the forward side of the front cylinders mounting bracket, unplug

the primary circuit electrical connectors from the coil(s) and remove the

spark plug wire from the plug that is connected to the coil being

checked. Mark the locations of all wires before disconnecting them.

4 To check the coil primary resistance, attach one ohmmeter lead

to one of the primary terminals and the other ohmmeter lead to the 
						

							
Chapter 4 Part B Ignition system (XV700-1100 models)

4B-3

3.6 To test the coil secondary resistance, connect the ohmmeter

between the spark plug wire (HT) terminal and one of

the primary terminals 
3.11 Disconnect the coil primary connectors and remove the

mounting nuts or bolts to separate them from the bracket

other primary terminal (see illustration).

5 Place the ohmmeter selector switch in the Rx1 position and

compare the measured resistance to the value listed in this Chapters

Specifications.

6 If the coil primary resistance is as specified, check the coil

secondary resistance by disconnecting either meter lead from the

primary terminal connector and attaching it to the spark plug wire (HT)

terminal (see illustration).

7 Place the ohmmeter selector switch in the Rx1000 position and

compare the measured resistance to the values listed in this Chapters

Specifications.

8 If the resistances are not as specified, the coil is probably

defective and should be replaced with a new one.

Removal and installation

Refer to illustration 3.11

9 If youre working on an XV1000 or XV1100 model, remove the

pressure sensor from the ignition coil cover located on top of the front

cylinders engine mounting bracket.

10 Remove the ignition coil cover, then disconnect the spark plug

wires from the plugs. Label the primary circuit electrical connectors

with tape to aid in reinstallation, then disconnect them.

11 Unbolt the coils from the engine mounting bracket and remove

them (see illustration).

12 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the primary

circuit electrical connectors are attached to the proper terminals; use

their wire colors for identification (see the Wiring diagrams at the end of

the book).

4 Pick-up coils - check, removal and installation

Check

Refer to illustration 4.3

1 If youre working on a 1981 through 1983 model, remove the fuel

tank (see Chapter 3).

2 If youre working on a 1984 or later model, remove the seat, the

left side cover and the luggage box (see Chapter 7).

3 On 1981 through 1990 models, locate the four-pin pick-up coil

wiring connector at the igniter (see illustration). On 1991 and later

models, follow the gray and black wires from the igniter to the two-pin

connector in the wiring harness. Disconnect the connector.

4 Make the test on the pick-up coil side of the connector. Probe the

terminals in the connector with an ohmmeter and compare the 
4.3 The igniter is mounted under the fuel tank on 1981 through

1983 models (shown) or forward of the rear fender on

1984 and later models

resistance reading with the value listed in this Chapters Specifications.

On 1981 through 1990 models two tests are required: brown to green

(rear cylinder) and red to blue (front cylinder).

5 If the pick-up coil(s) fail the above test, it must be replaced.

Removal

6 Remove the alternator cover from the left side of the engine (see

Chapter 8).

7 Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the pick-up coil(s) (see

Chapter 8).

Installation

8 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps.

5 Igniter - check, removal and installation

Check

1 The igniter is checked by process of elimination (when all other

possible causes have been checked and eliminated, the ignite-

fault). Because the igniter is expensive and cant be returned

purchased, consider having a Yamaha dealer test the

before you buy a new igniter. 
						

							
4B-4 
Chapter 4 Part B Ignition system (XV700-1100 models)

Removal and installation

1 If youre working on a 1981 through 1983 model, remove the fuel

tank (see Chapter 3).

2 If youre working on a 1984 or later model, remove the seat, the

left side cover and the luggage box (see Chapter 7).

3 Unplug the electrical connector, remove the mounting screws and

take the igniter out (see illustration 4.3).

4 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps.

6 Pressure sensor (1984 and later XV1000 and XV1100

models) - testing, removal and installation

Refer to illustration 6.2

1 Remove the pressure sensor mounting screws. Disconnect the

electrical connector and pressure hose and remove the pressure

sensor from the ignition coil cover.

2 Connect a 12-volt battery and 180-ohm resistor to the pressure

sensor (see illustration). Connect a 0-20 volt voltmeter between the

pressure sensor and ground. Compare the output voltage to the value

listed in this Chapters Specifications. If its incorrect, replace the

pressure sensor.

3 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. 
6.2 Pressure sensor test connections

1 Pressure sensor

2 Voltmeter

3 Battery 
4 Pressure hose fitting

5 180-ohm resistor 
						

							
5A-1

Chapter 5 Part A Steering,

suspension and final drive (XV535 models)

Contents

Section

Driveshaft and final drive - removal, inspection and installation.... 9

Fork oil change 3

Forks - disassembly, inspection and reassembly 5

Forks - removal and installation 4

General information 1

Handlebar - removal and installation 2 
Section

Rear shock absorbers - removal, inspection and installation 7

Steering head bearings - replacement 6

Swingarm bearings - check 8

Swingarm bearings - inspection and replacement ... 11

Swingarm - removal and installation . 10

Specifications

Front suspension

Fork spring length

1987 and 1988 US models

Standard 531.6 mm (20.9 inches)

Minimum 526.6 mm (20.7 inches)

1990-on US models and all UK models

Standard 546.6 mm (21.5 inches)

Minimum 541.6 mm (21.3 inches)

Fork oil capacity 228 cc (7.71 US fl oz, 8.03 Imp fl oz)

Fork oil level 176 mm (6.93 inches) below top of inner fork tube*

Rear suspension

Rear spring free length

1987 and 1988 US models

Standard 266 mm (10.5 inches)

Minimum 261 mm (10.3 inches)

1990-on US models and all UK models

Standard 237.5 mm (9.35 inches)

Minimum 232.2 mm (9.15 inches)

Rear spring installed length 229 mm (9.01 inches)

Swingarm endplay and side play limits 1 mm (0.04 inch)

*With spring removed and fork fully compressed.

Torque specifications

Front forks

Damperrod bolt 23 Nm (17ft-lbs)**

Upper triple clamp pinch bolts 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)

Lower triple clamp pinch bolts . 38 Nm (27 ft-lbs)

Handlebars and steering stem

Handlebar bracket to steering stem nut 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)

Handlebar to bracket clamp bolts . 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)

Steering stem bolt 54 Nm (39 ft-lbs)

Steering head bearing ring nut see Chapter 1

Rear shock absorber upper bolts.. 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)

Rear shock absorber lower bolts/nuts 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs)

Swingarm pivot shaft 75 Nm (54 ft-lbs)

Final drive unit to swingarm nuts 42 Nm (30 ft-lbs)

**Apply non-permanent thread locking agent to the bolt threads. 
						

							
5A-2 
Chapter 5 Part A Steering, suspension and final drive (XV535 models)

2.2a On early models, pry off the

rubber cover... 
2.2b ... later models use a pair of plugs 
2.2c Remove the Allen bolts to detach the

handlebar brackets; the arrow cast

in each bracket must face forward

when the bracket is reinstalled

1 General information

The front forks are of the conventional coil spring, hydraulically-

damped telescopic type.

The rear suspension consists of twin shock absorbers with coil

springs and a swingarm.

Final drive is of the shaft type.

2 Handlebar - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 2.2a, 2.2b, 2.2c and 2.5

1 The handlebar is a one-piece unit thats secured to the upper

triple clamp by a pair of brackets.

2 To remove the handlebar from its brackets, pry out the rubber

plug(s) and remove the bolts that secure the top half of each bracket

(see illustrations). Lift the handlebar out.

3 If the handlebar must be removed for access to other components,

such as the forks or the steering head, its not necessary to disconnect

the cables, wires or hoses, but it is a good idea to support the assembly

with a piece of wire or rope, to avoid unnecessary strain on the cables,

wires and the brake hose.

4 If the handlebar is to be removed completely, refer to Chapter 2

for clutch cable removal procedures, Chapter 6 for the brake master

cylinder removal procedures, Chapter 3 for the throttle grip removal

procedure and Chapter 8 for the switch removal procedure.

5 To remove a bracket from the upper triple clamp, pull out the 
safety clip and remove the nut and washers (see illustration), then lift

the bracket out.

6 Check the handlebar and brackets for cracks and distortion and

replace them if any undesirable conditions are found. If the brackets

were removed, check their rubber mounts for brittleness or deterio-

ration,

7 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. Tighten the nuts

and bolts to the torques listed in this Chapters Specifications.

3 Fork oil change

Refer to illustrations 3.2, 3.3, 3.4a, 3.4b, 3.5, 3.8 and 3.9

1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure. The front wheel must be raised off the ground using a jack

and wood support under the crankcase, or axle stands.

2 Remove the plastic fork caps (see illustration).

3 Loosen the upper triple clamp pinch bolts (see illustration).

4 Press down the spring seat with a suitable tool (such as a large

Phillips screwdriver). Remove the stopper ring, then slowly release the

spring pressure and lift out the spring seat and spring (see

illustrations).

5 Place a drain pan under the fork leg and remove the drain screw

(see illustration). Warning: Do not allow the fork oil to contact the tire,

brake disc or pads. If it does, wash off the tire, clean the disc with brake

system cleaner and replace the pads with new ones before riding the

motorcycle.

6 After most of the oil has drained, slowly compress and release the

2.5 Pull out the clip (arrow) and remove

the nut and washers to detach the

bracket from the triple clamp 
3.2 Remove the plastic cap from the fork 
3.3 Loosen the upper triple clamp bolts 
						

							
Chapter 5 Part A Steering, suspension and final drive (XV535 models)

5A-3

3.4a Press the spring seat down against

the spring pressure and pry out the

stopper ring (arrow) ... 
3.4b ... then remove the spring seat with

its O-ring and the spring 
3.5 Remove the fork drain screw (arrow)

3.8 Pour the specified amount of oil into the top of the fork

forks to pump out the remaining oil. An assistant will most likely be

required to do this.

7 Check the drain screw gasket and spring seat O-ring for damage

and replace them if necessary. Clean the threads of the drain screw

with solvent and let it dry, then install the screw and gasket, tightening

it securely.

8 Pour the type and amount of fork oil, listed in this Chapters

Specifications, into the fork tube through the opening at the top (see

illustration).

9 Remove the jack from under the engine and slowly pump the

forks a few times to purge the air. Measure the level of the oil in the 
fork with the fork fully compressed and without the spring in position

(see illustration). Compare it to the value listed in this Chapters

Specifications. Add or remove oil as necessary.

10 Coat the O-ring on the spring seat with a thin layer of multi-

purpose grease. Install the spring (with its closer-wound coils at the

top), spring seat and stopper ring (see illustrations 3.4b and 3.4a).

11 Install the fork cap.

12 The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal steps.

Tighten all fasteners to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications.

4 Forks - removal and installation

Removal

Refer to illustrations 4.7a and 4.7b

1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure.

2 Place a jack under the engine and raise it slightly to lift the front

tire off the ground.

3 Remove the brake caliper and front wheel (see Chapter 6).

4 Remove the front fender (see Chapter 7).

5 Remove any wiring harness clamps or straps from the fork tubes.

6 If the fork will be disassembled after removal, read through the

disassembly procedure (see Section 5), paying special attention to the

damper rod bolt removal steps. If you dont have the necessary special

tool or a substitute for it, you can remove the damper rod bolt before

the fork is disassembled, while the spring tension will keep the damper

rod from spinning inside the fork tube.

7 Loosen the upper and lower triple clamp bolts (see illustrations),

then slide the fork tubes down and remove the forks from the

motorcycle.

3.9 Measure fork oil level with the fork

fully compressed and the spring removed 
4.7a Loosen the upper triple

clamp bolts... 
4.7b ... and the lower triple clamp bolts 
						

							
5A-4 
Chapter 5 Part A Steering, suspension and final drive (XV535 models)

5.3 Pour the fork oil into a container

5.4a Pry the dust seal out of the outer fork tube 
5.4b Front fork (XV535 models) - exploded view

1 Fork cap

2 Stopper ring

3 Spring seat

4 O-ring

5 Fork spring

6 Teflon ring

7 Rebound spring

8 Damper rod 
9 Oil lock piece

10 Inner fork tube

11 Outer tube bushing

12 Dust cover

13 Retaining clip

14 Oil seal

15 Outer fork tube

16 Drain screw
Installation

8 Slide each fork leg into the lower triple clamp.

9 Slide the fork legs up, installing the tops of the tubes into the

upper triple clamp. Position the top of the fork tube so that it is level

with the top surface of the upper triple clamp.

10 The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal

procedure. Tighten all fasteners to the torques listed in this Chapters

Specifications and the Chapter 6 Specifications.

11 Pump the front brake lever several times to bring the pads into

contact with the disc.

5 Forks - disassembly, inspection and reassembly

Disassembly

Refer to illustrations 5.3, 5.4a, 5.4b, 5.5, 5.6a, 5.6b, 5.6c, 5.7 and 5.8

1 Remove the forks following the procedure in Section 4. Work on

one fork leg at a time to avoid mixing up the parts.

2 Remove the fork cap, stopper ring, spring seat and spring (see

Section 3, Step 4).

3 Invert the fork assembly over a container and allow the oil to drain

out (see illustration).

4 Pry the dust seal from the outer tube (see illustrations).

5 Pry the retaining ring from its groove in the outer tube (see

illustration). Slide the dust seal and retaining ring off the inner fork tube. 
5.5 Pry out the retaining ring 
						

							
Chapter 5 Part A Steering, suspension and final drive (XV535 models)

5A-5

5.6a This special Yamaha tool is used to keep the damper rod

from turning when its bolt is loosened or tightened

1 Handle 
2 Adapter 
5.6b Loosen the damper rod bolt with an Allen wrench .

5.6c ... and remove the bolt and its

copper washer - use a new copper

washer during reassembly 
5.7 Remove the damper rod and the

rebound spring - dont separate the

Teflon ring from the damper rod

unless you plan to replace it 
5.8 To separate the inner and outer fork

tubes, pull them apart firmly several

times - the slide hammer effect

will pull the tubes apart

6 Prevent the damper rod from turning using a holding handle

(Yamaha tool no. YM-01326, part no. 90890-01326) and adapter

(Yamaha tool no. YM-01300-01, part no. 90890-01294) (see illustration)

passed down through the fork inner tube to engage the damper rod

head. Unscrew the Allen bolt at the bottom of the outer tube and remove

the copper washer (see illustrations). Note: If you dont have access to

these tools, a piece of hardwood dowel can be used instead. Cut a taper

on the end of the dowel to fit into the damper rod head. Another

alternative is to loosen the damper rod bolt before removing the fork cap;

the pressure of the fork spring will keep the damper rod from turning.

7 Pull out the damper rod and the rebound spring (see illustration).

Dont remove the Teflon ring from the damper rod unless a new one

will be installed.

8 Hold the outer tube and yank the inner tube away from it,

5.14 Fit the oil lock piece onto the exposed end of

the damper rod 
repeatedly (like a slide hammer), until the seal and outer tube guide

bushing pop loose (see illustration).

9 Remove the oil seal and slide bushing from the inner tube, and

the oil lock piece from the outer tube.

Inspection

10 Clean all parts in solvent and blow them dry with compressed air,

if available. Check the inner and outer fork tubes, the guide bushing and

the damper rod for score marks, scratches, flaking of the chrome and

excessive or abnormal wear. Look for dents in the tubes and replace

them if any are found. Check the fork seal seat for nicks, gouges and

scratches. If damage is evident, leaks will occur around the seal-to-

outer tube junction. Replace worn or defective parts with new ones.

11 Have the inner fork tube checked for runout at a dealer service

department or other repair shop. Warning: If it is bent, it should not be

straightened; replace it with a new one.

12 Measure the overall length of the long (fork) spring and check it

for cracks and other damage. Compare the length to the minimum

length listed in this Chapters Specifications. If its defective or sagged,

replace both fork springs with new ones. Never replace only one

spring.

Reassembly

Refer to illustrations 5.14, 5.17, 5.18, 5.19 and 5.20

13 Install the rebound spring on the damper rod. Install the damper

rod in the inner fork tube, then let it slide slowly down until it protrudes

from the bottom of the inner fork tube.

14 Install the oil lock piece over the end of the damper rod that

protrudes from the fork tube (see illustration). 
						

							
5A-6 
Chapter 5 Part A Steering, suspension and final drive (XV535 models)

5.17 If you dont have the proper tool, a section of pipe can be

used the same way the special tool would be used to install the

outer tube guide bushing - as a slide hammer (be sure to tape

the ends of the pipe so it doesnt scratch the fork tube)

15 Install the inner fork tube in the outer fork tube.

16 Apply non-permanent thread locking agent to the damper rod

bolt, then install the bolt with its copper washer and tighten it to the

torque listed in this Chapters Specifications (see illustration 5.6b).

Hold the damper rod from turning with the tool used in Step 6. Note: If

you didn t use the tool, tighten the damper rod bolt after the fork spring

and cap bolt are installed.

17 Slide the outer tube guide bushing down the inner tube. Using a

special bushing driver (Yamaha tool no. YM-01367 and YM-8010, part

nos. 90890-01367 and 90890-01370 or equivalent), drive the bushing

into place until its fully seated. If you dont have access to one of

these tools, it is highly recommended that you take the assembly to a

Yamaha dealer service department or other motorcycle repair shop to

have this done. It is possible, however, to drive the bushing into place

using a section of pipe and an old guide bushing (see illustration).

Wrap tape around the ends of the pipe to prevent it from scratching

the fork tube.

18 Lubricate the lips and the outer diameter of the oil seal with the

recommended fork oil (see Chapter 1) and slide it down the inner tube,

with the numbered side of the seal facing up. Drive the seal into

place with the same tools used to drive in the slide bushing (see 
illustration). If you dont have access to these, it is recommended that

you take the assembly to a Yamaha dealer service department or other

motorcycle repair shop to have the seal driven in. If you are very

careful, the seal can be driven in with a hammer and a drift punch.

Work around the circumference of the seal, tapping gently on the outer

edge of the seal until its seated. Be careful - if you distort the seal,

youll have to disassemble the fork again and end up taking it to a

dealer anyway!

19 Install the retaining ring, making sure the ring is completely seated

in its groove (see illustration). .

20 Install the dust seal, making sure it seats completely (see

illustration). The same tool used to drive in the oil seal can be used for

the dust seal.

21 Install the drain screw and a new gasket, if it was removed.

22 Add the recommended type and amount of fork oil (see Sec-

tion 3).

23 Install the fork spring, with the closer-wound coils at the top.

24 Refer to Section 4 and install the spring seat, stopper ring and

fork cap.

25 Install the fork by following the procedure outlined in Section 4. If

you wont be installing the fork right away, store it in an upright

position.

6 Steering head bearings - replacement

Removal

Refer to illustrations 6.5a, 6.5b, 6.6a, 6.6b, 6.6c, 6.7a, 6.7b, 6.7c, 6.7d

and 6.8

1 If the steering head bearing check/adjustment (see Chapter 1)

does not remedy excessive play or roughness in the steering head

bearings, the entire front end must be disassembled and the bearings

and races replaced with new ones.

2 Refer to Section 4 and remove the front forks.

3 Remove the headlight lens (see Chapter 8) and disconnect the

wiring connectors within the headlight body. Detach the headlight and

turn signal assemblies from the lower triple clamp and move them out

of the way.

4 Remove the safety clips, nuts and washers that secure the

handlebar brackets to the triple clamp. Lift the handlebar and brackets

up and support the handlebar to prevent strain on the cables and

hoses.

5 Unbolt the cable retainers and the brake hose retainer from the

triple clamp (see illustrations). Detach the speedometer housing and

bracket from the triple clamp and position them out of the way.

6 Remove the steering stem bolt and lift the upper triple clamp off

the steering head (see illustrations).

5.18 Use the same tool to drive the oil

seal into position 
5.19 Install the retaining ring and make

sure it fits securely in its groove 
5.20 Slide the dust seal down the fork

tube and tap it into position 
						

							
Chapter 5 Part A Steering, suspension and final drive (XV535 models)

5A-7

6.5a Steering head and bearings (XV535 models) - exploded view

1 Steering stem bolt

2 Upper triple clamp

3 Ring nut

4 Bearing cover

5 Upper bearing top race 
6 Steel balls (19 total)

Upper bearing bottom race

8 Lower bearing top race

9 Steel balls (19 total)

10 Steering stem 
6.5b The brake hose retainer bolt is accessible from

underneath the triple clamp

6.6a Undo the steering stem bolt with a box

wrench (ring spanner)...

6.6b ... and lift it off.

6.6c ... and lift off the upper triple clamp