Haynes Yamaha Xv V Twins Manual

							
2A-46

Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models)

25.2 Lift the crankshaft and connecting rods out of the crankcase
Caution: The crankcase halves should fit together completely without

being forced. If theyre slightly apart, DO NOT force them together by

tightening the crankcase bolts.

20 Install the crankcase bolts in their holes (see illustrations 22.9a

and 22.9b). Bolts 1 through 12 have steel washers.

21 Tighten the bolts in numerical order, starting with the lowest-

numbered bolt and working to the highest. Tighten all bolts to the

torque listed in this Chapters Specifications. Note: There are different

torque settings for the 8mm bolts and the 6mm bolts.

22 Turn the mainshaft and the transmission driveshaft to make sure

they turn freely. Also make sure the crankshaft turns freely. Rotate the

shift cam by hand to make sure the transmission shifts into the

different gear positions.

23 The remainder of assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

24 Be sure to refill the engine oil (see Chapter 1).

23 Crankcase components - inspection and servicing

1 After the crankcases have been separated and the crankshaft,

shift cam and forks and transmission components removed, the

crankcases should be cleaned thoroughly wiih new solvent and dried

with compressed air.

2 Remove any oil passage plugs that havent already been

removed. All oil passages should be blown out with compressed air.

3 All traces of old gasket sealant should be removed from the

mating surfaces. Minor damage to the surfaces can be cleaned up with

a fine sharpening stone or grindstone. Caution: Be very careful not to

nick or gouge the crankcase mating surfaces or leaks will result. Check

both crankcase halves very carefully for cracks and other damage.

4 If any damage is found that cant be repaired, replace the

crankcase halves as a set.

24 Main and connecting rod bearings - general note

1 Even though main and connecting rod bearings are generally

replaced with new ones during the engine overhaul, the old bearings

should be retained for close examination as they may reveal valuable

information about the condition of the engine.

2 Bearing failure occurs mainly because of lack of lubrication, the

presence of dirt or other foreign particles, overloading the engine

and/or corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing failure, it must be

corrected before the engine is reassembled to prevent it from

happening again.

3 When examining the bearings, remove the rod bearings from the

connecting rods and caps and lay them out on a clean surface in the

same general position as their location on the crankshaft journals. This

will enable you to match any noted bearing problems with the

corresponding side of the crankshaft journal. The main bearings are

pressed into the crankcase halves and are only removed if they need

to be replaced.

4 Dirt and other foreign particles get into the engine in a variety of

ways. It may be left in the engine during assembly or it may pass

through filters or breathers. It may get into the oil and from there into

the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and normal

engine wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes left in engine

components after reconditioning operations such as cylinder honing,

especially when parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the proper

cleaning methods. Whatever the source, these foreign objects often

end up imbedded in the soft bearing material and are easily

recognized. Large particles will not imbed in the bearing and will score

or gouge the bearing and journal. The best prevention for this cause of

bearing failure is to clean all parts thoroughly and keep everything

spotlessly clean during engine reassembly. Frequent and regular oil

and filter changes are also recommended.

5 Lack of lubrication or lubrication breakdown has a number of

interrelated causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overloading

(which squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil leakage or throw 
off (from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high engine

speeds) all contribute to lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages

will also starve a bearing and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the

cause of bearing failure, the bearing material is wiped or extruded from

the steel backing of the bearing. Temperatures may increase to the

point where the steel backing and the journal turn blue from

overheating.

6 Riding habits can have a definite effect on bearing life. Full throttle

low speed operation, or lugging the engine, puts very high loads on

bearings, which tend to. squeeze out the oil film. These loads cause the

bearings to flex, which produces fine cracks in the bearing face

(fatigue failure). Eventually the bearing material will loosen in pieces

and tear away from the steel backing. Short trip driving leads to

corrosion of bearings, as insufficient engine heat is produced to drive

off the condensed water and corrosive gases produced. These

products collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil is

carried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the

bearing material.

7 Incorrect bearing installation during engine assembly will lead to

bearing failure as well. Tight fitting bearings which leave insufficient

bearing oil clearances result in oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles

trapped behind a bearing insert result in high spots on the bearing

which lead to failure.

8 To avoid bearing problems, clean all parts thoroughly before

reassembly, double check all bearing clearance measurements and

lubricate the new bearings with engine assembly lube or moly-based

grease during installation.

25 Crankshaft and main bearings - removal, inspection,

main bearing selection and installation

Crankshaft removal

Refer to illustration 25.2

1 Separate the crankcase halves (see Section 22).

2 Lift the crankshaft out, together with the connecting rods, and set

them on a clean surface (see illustration).

Inspection

Refer to illustration 25.6

3 If you havent already done so, mark and remove the connecting

rods from the crankshaft (see Section 26).

4 Clean the crankshaft with solvent, using a rifle-cleaning brush to

scrub out the oil passages. If available, blow the crank dry with

compressed air. Check the main and connecting rod journals for

uneven wear, scoring and pits. Rub a copper coin across the journal 
						

							
Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models)

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25.6 Place the crankshaft in V-blocks or a holding fixture and

check for runout with a dial indicator 
25.7a Measure journal diameter with a micrometer

25.7b Measure main bearing diameter with a hole gauge ... 
25.7c ... then measure the gauge diameter with a micrometer

25.10 Press the main bearing out; apply pressure from the side

opposite the locating tab
several times - if a journal picks up copper from the coin, its too rough.

Replace the crankshaft.

5 Check the camshaft chain sprockets on the crankshaft for

chipped teeth and other wear. If any undesirable conditions are found,

replace the crankshaft. Check the chains as described in Section 17.

Check the rest of the crankshaft for cracks and other damage. It

should be magnafluxed to reveal hidden cracks - a dealer service

department or motorcycle machine shop will handle the procedure.

6 Set the crankshaft on V-blocks and check the runout with a dial

indicator touching the alternator and clutch mounting surfaces (see

illustration). Compare your findings with this Chapters Specifications.

If the runout exceeds the limit, replace the crank.

Main bearing selection

Note: This procedure requires precision measuring equipment, a press

and a special Yamaha tool. If you dont have the necessary equipment,

have the procedure done by a dealer service department or motorcycle

repair shop.

Refer to illustrations 25.7a, 25.7b, 25.7c, 25.10, 25.11a, 25.11b,

25.11c and 25.11d

7 Measure the diameter of the main bearing journals with a

micrometer (see illustration). Measure the inside diameter of the main

bearings with a hole gauge and micrometer (see illustrations). The

difference between the two measurements is bearing clearance.

8 The clearance should be within the range listed in this Chapters

Specifications.

9 If clearance is greater than the service limit listed in this Chapters

Specifications and new bearings dont solve the problem, replace 
the crankshaft.

10 If the clearance is greater than the service limit listed in this

Chapters Specifications but journal diameter is within specifications,

press the main bearings out of their bores (see illustration).

11 Measure the diameter of the bearing bores in the crankcase

halves with a micrometer. If theyre greater than the maximum listed in

this Chapters Specifications, replace the crankcase halves as a set. If 
						

							
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Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models)

25.11a This special Yamaha tool is used

to press in the main bearings ... 
25.11b ... the bearing fits over

the support... 
25.11c ... and the plate fits on top of the

support with its flat aligned with the

bearing locating tab; a handle is threaded

into the support to contact the press ram

25.11 d Align the locating tab with the

notch and press the bearing into its bore 
25.14 Coat the bearing with assembly lube

or moly-based grease 
25.15a Guide the crankshaft into the

main bearing ...

25.15b ... and position the connecting rods so theyre aligned

with the cylinders

theyre within the specified limits, refer to this Chapters Specifications

for the bearing color code and install new bearings (see illustrations)

(the color is painted on the edge of the bearing).

12 If any crank journal is out-of-round or tapered or the bearing

clearance is beyond the limit listed in this Chapters Specifications with

new bearings, replace the crankshaft. 
Installation

Refer to illustrations 25.14, 25.15a and 25.15b

13 Install the connecting rods on the crankshaft at this point if they

were removed (see Section 26).

14 Lubricate the bearings with engine assembly lube or moly-based

grease (see illustration).

15 Carefully lower the crankshaft into place (see illustration). Align

the connecting rods with the cylinders (see illustration).

16 Assemble the case halves (see Section 22) and check to make

sure the crankshaft and the transmission shafts turn freely.

26 Connecting rods and bearings - removal, inspection,

bearing selection and installation

Removal

Refer to illustrations 26.1, 26.2, 26.3a and 26.3b

1 Before removing the connecting rods from the crankshaft, insert a

feeler gauge between the crankshaft and the big end of each

connecting rod and between the two connecting rods and measure the

side clearance (see illustration). If the clearance on any rod is greater

than that listed in this Chapters Specifications, that rod will have to be

replaced with a new one.

2 Using a center punch or felt pen, mark the position of each rod 
						

							
Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models)

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26.1 Measure big end play between the two rods and between

the rods and crankshaft 
26.2 Label the rods and caps according to their position on the 2A

crankshaft (left or right)

26.3a Undo the connecting rod nuts

26.3b ... and take off the caps

26.5 Slip the piston pin into the rod and rock it back-and-forth to

check for looseness

and cap, relative to its position on the crankshaft (left or right) (see

illustration).

3 Unscrew the bearing cap nuts, separate the cap from the rod,

then detach the rod from the crankshaft (see illustrations). If the cap

is stuck, tap on the ends of the rod bolts with a sofMaced hammer to

free them.

4 Roll the bearing inserts sideways to separate them from the rods

and caps. Keep them in order so they can be reinstalled in their original 
locations. Wash the parts in solvent and dry them with compressed air,

if available.

Inspection

Refer to illustration 26.5

5 Check the connecting rods for cracks and other obvious damage.

Lubricate the piston pin for each rod, install it in the proper rod and

check for play (see illustration). If it wobbles, replace the connecting

rod and/or the pin.

6 Examine the connecting rod bearing inserts. If they are scored,

badly scuffed or appear to have been seized, new bearings must be

installed. Always replace the bearings in the connecting rods as a set.

If they are badly damaged, check the corresponding crankshaft

journal. Evidence of extreme heat, such as discoloration, indicates that

lubrication failure has occurred. Be sure to thoroughly check the oil

pump and pressure relief valves as well as ail oil holes and passages

before reassembling the engine.

7 Have the rods checked for twist and bending at a dealer service

department or other motorcycle repair shop.

Connecting rod bearing selection

Refer to illustrations 26.11, 26.13, 26.18a, 26.18b and 26.18c

8 If the bearings and journals appear to be in good condition, check

the oil clearances as follows:

9 Start with the rod for one cylinder. Wipe the bearing inserts and

the connecting rod and cap clean, using a lint-free cloth.

10 Install the bearing inserts in the connecting rod and cap. Make

sure the tab on the bearing engages with the no1

11 Wipe off the connecting rod journal with a lint-tree 
						

							
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Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models)

26.11 Lay a strip of Plastigage on

the journal, parallel to the

crankshaft centerline 
26.13 Place the Plastigage scale next to

the flattened Plastigage to measure the

bearing clearance 
26.18a The number on the connecting

rod (A) is used for bearing selection; the

letter (B) is used to align the cap and rod

during reassembly

26.18b The number on the rod is used

together with the number on the

crankshaft to select rod bearings 
26.18c The color code is painted on the

side of the bearing 
26.20a Be sure the tab fits in the notch

and the oil hole in the upper bearing

aligns with the oil hole in the connecting

rod (arrows)

strip of Plastigage (type HPG-1) across the top of the journal, parallel

with the journal axis (see illustration).

12 Position the connecting rod on the journal, then install the rod cap

and nuts. Tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifi-

cations, but dont allow the connecting rod to rotate at all.

13 Unscrew the nuts and remove the connecting rod and cap from

the journal, being very careful not to disturb the Plastigage.. Compare

the width of the crushed Plastigage to the scale printed in the

Plastigage envelope to determine the bearing oil clearance (see

illustration).

14 If the clearance is within the range listed in this Chapters Specifi-

cations and the bearings are in perfect condition, they can be reused. If

the clearance is greater than the wear limit, replace the bearing inserts

with new inserts that have the same color code, then check the

clearance once again. Always replace all of the inserts at the same

time.

15 The clearance should be within the range listed in this Chapters

Specifications.

16 If the clearance is greater than the maximum clearance listed in

this Chapters Specifications, measure the diameter of the connecting

rod journal with a micrometer. Yamaha doesnt provide diameter or

wear limit specifications, but by measuring the diameter at a number of

points around the journals circumference, youll be able to determine

whether or not the journal is out-of-round. Take the measurement at

each end of the journal to determine if the journal is tapered.

17 If any journal is tapered or, out-of-round or bearing clearance is 
beyond the maximum listed in this Chapters Specifications (with new

bearings), replace the crankshaft.

18 Each connecting rod has a 3 or 4 stamped on it in ink (see

illustration). Subtract this number from the connecting rod journal

number on the crankshaft to get a bearing number (see illustration).

For example, the number on the connecting rod shown in the

accompanying illustration is 4. The corresponding number for that

connecting rods journal, stamped into the crankshaft, is 2. Subtracting

2 from 4 produces 2, which is the bearing number for that journal.

According to the accompanying chart, bearing no. 2 is color-coded

black (see illustration). The color codes are painted on the edges of

the bearings (see illustration).

19 Repeat the bearing selection procedure for the remaining

connecting rods.

Installation

Refer to illustrations 26.20a, 26.20b, 26.21a, 26.21b and 26.22

20 Wipe off the bearing inserts, connecting rods and caps. Install the

inserts into the rods and caps, using your hands only, making sure the

tabs on the inserts engage with the notches in the rods and caps (see

illustration). When all the inserts are installed, lubricate them with

engine assembly lube or moly-based grease (see illustration). Dont

get any lubricant on the mating surfaces of the rod or cap.

21 Assemble each connecting rod to its proper journal, referring to

the previously applied cylinder numbers. Make sure the Y mark on the

rod is toward the outside of the engine (see illustration). Also, the 
						

							
Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models)

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26.20b Coat the bearings with assembly

lube or moly-based grease 
26.21a The Y mark on the connecting rod

(arrow) faces the outside of the engine 
26.21b If the halves of the letter stamped

on the rod and cap dont fit together

perfectly, the wrong cap is on the rod (or

the cap is on backwards)

26.22 Tighten to the specified torque in

stages (see text) 
27.2a Lift the guide bars out... 
27.2b ... and disengage the forks from

the gear grooves

27.3 Reassemble the forks and guide bars so they dont get

mixed up

letter present at the rod/cap seam on one side of the connecting rod

should fit together perfectly when the rod and cap are assembled (see

illustration). If it doesnt, the wrong cap is on the rod. Fix this problem

before assembling the engine any further.

22 When youre sure the rods are positioned correctly, lubricate the

threads of the rod bolts and the surfaces of the nuts with molybdenum

disulfide grease and tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this 
Chapters Specifications (see illustration). Note: Snug both nuts

evenly, then tighten them to the specified torque in a continuous

motion. If you must stop tightening between 32 and 36 Nm (22 and 25

ft-lbs), loosen the nuts to a torque less than 32 Nm (22 ft-lbs), then

retighten them to the specified torque in one continuous motion.

23 Turn the rods on the crankshaft. If either of them feels tight, tap

on the bottom of the connecting rod caps with a hammer - this should

relieve stress and free them up. If it doesnt, recheck the bearing

clearance.

24 As a final step, recheck the connecting rod side clearances (see

Step 1). If the clearances arent correct, find out why before

proceeding with engine assembly.

27 Shift cam and forks - removal, inspection and

installation

Removal

Refer.to illustrations 27.2a, 27.2b, 27.3 and 27.4

1 Remove the engine and separate the crankcase halves (see

Sections 5 and 22).

2 Pull the guide bars out and disengage the shift forks from the gear

grooves (see illustrations).

3 As soon as theyre removed, reassemble the guide bars and forks

so they can be reinstalled in their correct positions (see illustration)

4 Pull the shift cam out of the case (see illustration). 
						

							
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Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models)

27.4 Pull the shift cam out of its bore in

the crankcase 
27.5 Check for wear at the fork tips (A)

and guide pins (B) 
27.8a Oil the end of the shift cam and slip

it into its bore in the crankcase

27.8b Position the shift fork marked L in

the left-hand gear groove with its letter

facing the right side of the engine . 
27.8c ... place the shift fork marked R in

the groove next to the fork marked L . . . 
27.8d ... install the longer guide bar

through the two forks ...

27.8e ... (the assembled forks should look like this)
Inspection

Refer to illustration 27.5

5 Check the edges of the grooves in the shift cam for signs of

excessive wear. Check the pin on each shift cam for wear and damage

(see illustration). If undesirable conditions are found, replace the shift

cam.

6 Check the shift forks for distortion and wear, especially at the fork

tips (see illustration 27.5). If they are discolored or severely worn they

are probably bent. If damage or wear is evident, check the shift fork

groove in the corresponding gear as well. Inspect the guide pins and

the shaft bore for excessive wear and distortion and replace any

defective parts with new ones.

7 Check the shift fork guide bars for evidence of wear, galling and

other damage (see illustration 27.5). Make sure the shift forks move

smoothly on the bar. If the bar is worn or bent, replace it with a new

one.

Installation

Refer to illustrations 27.8a through 27.8h

8 Installation is the reverse of removal, noting the following points:

a) Lubricate all parts with engine oil before installing them.

b) Use the numbers and letters on the forks to position them

correctly. The forks are numbered from one to three, starting from

the left side of the engine. The numbers face the left side of the

engine when the forks are installed. The letters L, C and R (left, 
center and right) also indicate fork position (see illustrations).

The letters face the right side of the engine when installed,

c) Engage the follower pin on each shift fork with the shift cam as

you pass the guide bar through the fork. Position the shift cam

and forks in the neutral position (see illustrations). 
						

							
Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models)

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27.8f Install the shift fork marked C in its

groove with the letter facing the right side

of the engine ... 
27.8g ... and install the shorter guide bar

through the fork... 
27.8h ... (the assembled fork and guide

bar should look like this)

28.3a Transmission gears and shafts (XV535

models)

1) Bearing

2) First wheel gear

3) Fourth wheel gear

4) Snap-ring

5) Thrust washer

6) Third wheel gear

7) Fifth wheel gear

8) Second wheel gear

9) Driveaxle

10) Main axle

11) Fourth pinion gear

12) Third pinion gear

13) Fifth pinion gear

14) Second pinion gear

28 Transmission shafts and middle drive gear - removal,

disassembly, inspection, reassembly and installation

Refer to illustrations 28.3a, 28.3b, 28.4, 28.5a, 28.5b, 28.6, 28.7,

28.8a, 28.8b, 28.9, 28.10a, 28.10b, 28.10c, 28.106, 28.11a, 28.11b,

28.11c, 28.12a and 28.12b 
Removal and disassembly

Driveaxle and middle drive gear

1 Remove the engine and separate the crankcase halves (see

Sections 5 and 22).

2 Remove the shift drum and forks (see Section 27).

3 Remove the first wheel gear (see illustrations). Note: Place the 
						

							
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Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models)

28.3b Remove first wheel gear 
28.4 Take the fourth wheel gear off

the driveaxle 
28.5a Remove the snap-ring ...

28.5b ... and the thrust washer 
28.6 Remove the third wheel gear and

main axle assembly together 
28.7 Remove the fifth wheel gear

28.8a Remove the snap-ring ,

28.8b ... and the thrust washer 
28.9 Remove the second wheel gear

gears on a rod in order as they are removed so they can be

reassembled in the same order and facing in the same direction.

4 Remove the fourth wheel gear (see illustration).

5 Remove the snap-ring and thrust washer (see illustrations).

6 Remove the third wheel gear and main axle assembly together

(see illustration).

7 Remove the fifth wheel gear (see illustration).

8 Remove the snap-ring and thrust washer (see illustrations).

9 Remove the second wheel gear (see illustration). 
10 The driveaxle and middle drive gear can be left in the crankcase

unless they or their ball bearing need to be replaced. If any of these

parts are worn or damaged, bend back the staked portion of the

middle drive gear locknut (see illustration). Secure the driveaxle in a

soft-jawed vise, then remove the locknut and lift the driveaxle out of

the bearing (see illustrations).

11 If the bearing needs to be replaced, undo its four retaining screws

with a no. 30 Torx bit and remove the two retainers (see illustrations).

Caution: The screws are staked in place. Dont use anything other than 
						

							
Chapter 2 Part A Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models)

2A-55

28.10a Bend back the staked portion of

the locknut with a hammer and punch or

small chisel 
28.10b Place the driveaxle in a vise with

padded jaws to prevent damage to

the splines ... 
28.10c ... remove the locknut..

28.1 Od ... and lift the driveaxle out of

the crankcase 
28.11a If the bearing needs to be

replaced, remove one short retainer screw

(A) and three longer screws (B)... 
28.11b ... be sure to use the proper

Torx bit to prevent rounding out the

screw heads

28.11c Remove the screws and retainers,

noting the location of the short

screw (arrow) 
28.12a Lift the bearing out of its bore (if

its tight, tap it out from the other side)... 
28.12b ... and lift out the shims; keep

these with the bearing so they can

be reinstalled

the correct bit to loosen them or theyll be rounded out. Note that one

of the screws is shorter than the other three (see illustration). Be sure

to reinstall it in the correct location or the clutch release mechanism

will be obstructed.

12 Lift the bearing out of its bore, then remove the shims (see

illustrations). Keep the shims with the bearing so the correct number

can be reinstalled. 
Main axle

Refer to illustrations 28.13, 28.14a, 28.14b, 28.15a, 28.15b 28 16a

28.16b and 28.16c

Note: Disassembly and reassembly of the main axle require a hydraulic

press.

13 Before disassembly, measure the length of the gearset on the