1991 1999 ford explorer chilton User Manual
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Lock the flywheel in place and remove the retaining bolts ... Remove the flywheel attaching bolts and remove the flywheel. 3. ... then remove the flywheel from the crankshaft To install: Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange. Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching bolts with Loctite® or equivalent and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts in sequence across from each other to specifications. 4. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 434 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Upon installation, apply a thread-locking compound to the flywheel bolts On a manual shift transmission, install the clutch disc and pressure plate and cover assembly following the procedures in Section 7. 5. Install the transmission following the procedure in Section 7. 6. Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 435
EXHAUST SYSTEM Safety glasses should be worn at all times when working on or near the exhaust system. Older exhaust systems will almost always be covered with loose rust particles which are more than a nuisance and could injure your eye. CAUTION DO NOT perform exhaust repairs or inspection with the engine or exhaust hot. Allow the system to cool completely. Exhaust systems are noted for sharp edges, flaking metal and rusted bolts. Gloves and eye protection are required. A healthy supply of penetrating oil and rags is highly recommended. Cracks in the muffler are a guaranteed leak EXHAUST SYSTEM 437
Check the muffler for rotted spot welds and seams Your vehicle must be raised and supported safely at four points to inspect the exhaust system properly. Start the inspection at the exhaust manifold where the header pipe is attached and work your way to the back of the vehicle. On dual exhaust systems, remember to inspect both sides of the vehicle. Check the complete exhaust system for open seams, holes, loose connections, or other deterioration which could permit exhaust fumes to seep into the passenger compartment. Inspect all mounting brackets and hangers for deterioration, some may have rubber O-rings that can become overstretched and non-supportive (and should be replaced if worn). Many technicians use a pointed tool to poke up into the exhaust system at rust spots to see whether or not they crumble. Most models have heat shield(s) covering certain parts of the exhaust system, it is often necessary to remove these shields to visually inspect those components. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 438 EXHAUST SYSTEM
Make sure the exhaust does contact the body or suspension Check for overstretched or torn exhaust hangers HOW TO USE THIS BOOK EXHAUST SYSTEM 439
Example of a badly deteriorated exhaust pipe Inspect flanges for gaskets that have deteriorated and need replacement Some systems, like this one, use large O-rings (donuts) in between the flanges REPLACEMENT There are basically two types of exhaust systems. One is the flange type where the component ends are attached with bolts and a gasket in-between. The other exhaust system is the slip joint type. These components slip into one another using clamps to retain them together. CAUTION Allow the exhaust system to cool sufficiently before spraying a solvent exhaust fasteners. Some solvents are highly flammable and could ignite when sprayed on hot exhaust components. Before removing any component of the exhaust system, ALWAYS squirt a liquid rust dissolving agent onto the fasteners for ease of removal. A lot of knuckle skin will be saved by following this rule. It may even be wise to spray the fasteners and allow them to sit overnight. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 440 REPLACEMENT
Nuts and bolts will be extremely difficult to remove when deteriorated with rust CAUTION Do NOT perform exhaust repairs or inspection with the engine or exhaust hot. Allow the system to cool. Exhaust systems are noted for sharp edges, flaking metal and rusted bolts. Gloves and eye protection are required. Example of a flange type exhaust system jointHOW TO USE THIS BOOK REPLACEMENT 441
Example of a common slip joint type system Raise and support the vehicle safely, as necessary for access. Remember that some longer exhaust pipes may be difficult to wrestle out from under the vehicle if it is not supported high enough. 1. If you havent already, apply a generous amount of penetrating oil or solvent to any rusted fasteners. 2. On flange joints, carefully loosen and remove the retainers at the flange. If bolts or nuts are difficult to break loose, apply more penetrating liquid and give it some additional time to set. If the fasteners still will not come loose an impact driver may be necessary to jar it loose (and keep the fastener from breaking). 3. When unbolting the headpipe from the manifold, make sure that the bolts are free before trying to remove them. If you snap a stud in the exhaust manifold, the stud will have to be removed with a bolt extractor, which often means removal of the manifold itself. On slip joint components, remove the mounting U-bolts from around the exhaust pipe you are extracting from the vehicle. Dont be surprised if the U-bolts break while removing the nuts. 4. Loosen the exhaust pipe from any mounting brackets retaining it to the floor pan and separate the components. Slight twisting and turning may be required to remove the component completely from the vehicle. You may need to tap on the component with a rubber mallet to loosen it. If all else fails, use a hacksaw to separate the parts. An oxy-acetylene cutting torch may be faster but the sparks are DANGEROUS near the fuel tank, and at the very least, accidents could happen, resulting in damage to the under-vehicle parts, not to mention yourself. 5. When installing exhaust components, you should loosely position all components before tightening any of the joints. Once you are certain that the system is run correctly, begin tightening the fasteners at the front of the vehicle and work your way back. 6. Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 442 REPLACEMENT
ENGINE RECONDITIONING Determining Engine Condition Anything that generates heat and/or friction will eventually burn or wear out (for example, a light bulb generates heat, therefore its life span is limited). With this in mind, a running engine generates tremendous amounts of both; friction is encountered by the moving and rotating parts inside the engine and heat is created by friction and combustion of the fuel. However, the engine has systems designed to help reduce the effects of heat and friction and provide added longevity. The oiling system reduces the amount of friction encountered by the moving parts inside the engine, while the cooling system reduces heat created by friction and combustion. If either system is not maintained, a break-down will be inevitable. Therefore, you can see how regular maintenance can affect the service life of your vehicle. If you do not drain, flush and refill your cooling system at the proper intervals, deposits will begin to accumulate in the radiator, thereby reducing the amount of heat it can extract from the coolant. The same applies to your oil and filter; if it is not changed often enough it becomes laden with contaminates and is unable to properly lubricate the engine. This increases friction and wear. There are a number of methods for evaluating the condition of your engine. A compression test can reveal the condition of your pistons, piston rings, cylinder bores, head gasket(s), valves and valve seats. An oil pressure test can warn you of possible engine bearing, or oil pump failures. Excessive oil consumption, evidence of oil in the engine air intake area and/or bluish smoke from the tailpipe may indicate worn piston rings, worn valve guides and/or valve seals. As a general rule, an engine that uses no more than one quart of oil every 1000 miles is in good condition. Engines that use one quart of oil or more in less than 1000 miles should first be checked for oil leaks. If any oil leaks are present, have them fixed before determining how much oil is consumed by the engine, especially if blue smoke is not visible at the tailpipe. COMPRESSION TEST A noticeable lack of engine power, excessive oil consumption and/or poor fuel mileage measured over an extended period are all indicators of internal engine wear. Worn piston rings, scored or worn cylinder bores, blown head gaskets, sticking or burnt valves, and worn valve seats are all possible culprits. A check of each cylinders compression will help locate the problem. A screw-in type compression gauge is more accurate than the type you simply hold against the spark plug hole. Although it takes slightly longer to use, its worth the effort to obtain a more accurate reading. Make sure that the proper amount and viscosity of engine oil is in the crankcase, then ensure the battery is fully charged. 1. Warm-up the engine to normal operating temperature, then shut the engine OFF. 2. Disable the ignition system. 3. Label and disconnect all of the spark plug wires from the plugs. 4. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head area around the spark plug ports, then remove the spark plugs. 5. Set the throttle plate to the fully open (wide-open throttle) position. You can block the accelerator linkage open for this, or you can have an assistant fully depress the accelerator pedal. 6. ENGINE RECONDITIONING 443
A screw-in type compression gauge is more accurate and easier to use without an assistant Install a screw-in type compression gauge into the No. 1 spark plug hole until the fitting is snug. 7. WARNING Be careful not to crossthread the spark plug hole. According to the tool manufacturers instructions, connect a remote starting switch to the starting circuit. 8. With the ignition switch in the OFFposition, use the remote starting switch to crank the engine through at least five compression strokes (approximately 5 seconds of cranking) and record the highest reading on the gauge. 9. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the same number of compression strokes and/or time as the first. 10. Compare the highest readings from each cylinder to that of the others. The indicated compression pressures are considered within specifications if the lowest reading cylinder is within 75 percent of the pressure recorded for the highest reading cylinder. For example, if your highest reading cylinder pressure was 150 psi (1034 kPa), then 75 percent of that would be 113 psi (779 kPa). So the lowest reading cylinder should be no less than 113 psi (779 kPa). 11. If a cylinder exhibits an unusually low compression reading, pour a tablespoon of clean engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeat the compression test. If the compression rises after adding oil, it means that the cylinders piston rings and/or cylinder bore are damaged or worn. If the pressure remains low, the valves may not be seating properly (a valve job is needed), or the head gasket may be blown near that cylinder. If compression in any two adjacent cylinders is low, and if the addition of oil doesnt help raise compression, there is leakage past the head gasket. Oil and coolant in the combustion chamber, combined with blue or constant white smoke from the tailpipe, are symptoms of this problem. However, dont be alarmed by the normal white smoke emitted from the tailpipe during engine warm-up or from cold weather driving. There may be evidence of water droplets on the engine dipstick and/or oil droplets in the cooling system if a head gasket is blown. 12. OIL PRESSURE TEST Check for proper oil pressure at the sending unit passage with an externally mounted mechanical oil pressure gauge (as opposed to relying on a factory installed dash-mounted gauge). A tachometer may also be needed, as some specifications may require running the engine at a specific rpm. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 444 COMPRESSION TEST