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1991 1999 ford explorer chilton User Manual

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    							CV-boots must be inspected periodically for damage
    A torn boot should be replaced immediately
    Spark Plugs
    A typical spark plug consists of a metal shell surrounding a ceramic insulator. A metal electrode extends
    downward through the center of the insulator and protrudes a small distance. Located at the end of the plug
    and attached to the side of the outer metal shell is the side electrode. The side electrode bends in at a 90( angle
    so that its tip is just past and parallel to the tip of the center electrode. The distance between these two
    electrodes (measured in thousandths of an inch or hundredths of a millimeter) is called the spark plug gap.
    The spark plug does not produce a spark, but instead provides a gap across which the current can arc. The coil
    produces anywhere from 20,000 to 50,000 volts (depending on the type and application) which travels
    through the wires to the spark plugs. The current passes along the center electrode and jumps the gap to the
    side electrode, and in doing so, ignites the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
    INSPECTION 77 
    						
    							Cross-section of a spark plug
    Click to enlarge
    A variety of tools and gauges are needed for spark plug service
    SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE
    Spark plug heat range is the ability of the plug to dissipate heat. The longer the insulator (or the farther it
    extends into the engine), the hotter the plug will operate; the shorter the insulator (the closer the electrode is to
    the blocks cooling passages) the cooler it will operate. A plug that absorbs little heat and remains too cool
    will quickly accumulate deposits of oil and carbon since it is not hot enough to burn them off. This leads to
    plug fouling and consequently to misfiring. A plug that absorbs too much heat will have no deposits but, due
    to the excessive heat, the electrodes will burn away quickly and might possibly lead to preignition or other HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
    78 Spark Plugs 
    						
    							
    ignition problems. Preignition takes place when plug tips get so hot that they glow sufficiently to ignite the
    air/fuel mixture before the actual spark occurs. This early ignition will usually cause a pinging during low
    speeds and heavy loads.
    Spark plug heat rangeClick to enlarge
    The general rule of thumb for choosing the correct heat range when picking a spark plug is: if most of your
    driving is long distance, high speed travel, use a colder plug; if most of your driving is stop and go, use a
    hotter plug. Original equipment plugs are generally a good compromise between the 2 styles and most people
    never have the need to change their plugs from the factory-recommended heat range. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
    SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE 79 
    						
    							
    REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
    Always twist and pull on the spark plug boot, never on the wire
    Ford recommends replacing standard spark plugs every 30,000 miles (48,000km) and platinum plugs
    every 60,000 miles (96,000km).
    A set of spark plugs usually requires replacement after about 20,000-30,000 miles (32,000-48,000km),
    depending on your style of driving. In normal operation plug gap increases about 0.001 in. (0.025mm) for
    every 2500 miles (4000km). As the gap increases, the plugs voltage requirement also increases. It requires a
    greater voltage to jump the wider gap and about two to three times as much voltage to fire the plug at high
    speeds than at idle. The improved air/fuel ratio control of modern fuel injection combined with the higher
    voltage output of modern ignition systems will often allow an engine to run significantly longer on a set of
    standard spark plugs, but keep in mind that efficiency will drop as the gap widens (along with fuel economy
    and power).
    When youre removing spark plugs, work on one at a time. Dont start by removing the plug wires all at once,
    because, unless you number them, they may become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin and number
    the wires with tape. Also, an anti-seize compound should be used before installing the plugs into the cylinder
    head.
    Disconnect the negative battery cable, and if the vehicle has been run recently, allow the engine to
    thoroughly cool.
    1. 
    Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then pull upward and remove the boot from the
    plug. Be sure to pull on the boot and not on the wire, otherwise the connector located inside the boot
    may become separated.
    2.  HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
    80 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 
    						
    							Remove the spark plug wire from the plug by twisting the boot and pulling outwards. Never pull
    on the wire
    Using compressed air, blow any water or debris from the spark plug well to assure that no harmful
    contaminants are allowed to enter the combustion chamber when the spark plug is removed. If
    compressed air is not available, use a rag or a brush to clean the area.
    3. 
    Remove the spark plugs when the engine is cold, if possible, to prevent damage to the threads. If
    removal of the plugs is difficult, apply a few drops of penetrating oil or silicone spray to the area
    around the base of the plug, and allow it a few minutes to work.
    Using a spark plug socket that is equipped with a rubber insert to properly hold the plug, turn the
    spark plug counterclockwise to loosen and remove the spark plug from the bore.
    4. 
    Using the proper size spark plug socket, loosen the plug by rotating it counterclockwise
    Once the plug is loose, you should be able to remove it by hand. Compare the plug against the examples given
    WARNING
    Be sure not to use a flexible extension on the socket. Use of a flexible extension may allow a shear force to be
    applied to the plug. A shear force could break the plug off in the cylinder head, leading to costly and
    frustrating repairs.
    To install: HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
    REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 81 
    						
    							Inspect the spark plug boot for tears or damage. If a damaged boot is found, the spark plug wire must
    be replaced.
    5. 
    Using a wire feeler gauge, check and adjust the spark plug gap. When using a gauge, the proper size
    should pass between the electrodes with a slight drag. The next larger size should not be able to pass
    while the next smaller size should pass freely.
    6. 
    Coat the spark plug threads with an anti-seize compound before installing it into the cylinder head. Carefully thread the plug into the bore by hand. If resistance is felt before the plug is almost
    completely threaded, back the plug out and begin threading again. In small, hard to reach areas, an old
    spark plug wire and boot could be used as a threading tool. The boot will hold the plug while you
    twist the end of the wire and the wire is supple enough to twist before it would allow the plug to
    crossthread.
    7. 
    WARNING
    Do not use the spark plug socket to thread the plugs. Always carefully thread the plug by hand or using an old
    plug wire to prevent the possibility of crossthreading and damaging the cylinder head bore.
    Carefully tighten the spark plug. If the plug you are installing is equipped with a crush washer, seat
    the plug, then tighten about  1
    /4  turn to crush the washer. If you are installing a tapered seat plug,
    tighten the plug to specifications provided by the vehicle or plug manufacturer.
    8. 
    Apply a small amount of silicone dielectric compound to the end of the spark plug lead or inside the
    spark plug boot to prevent sticking, then install the boot to the spark plug and push until it clicks into
    place. The click may be felt or heard, then gently pull back on the boot to assure proper contact.
    9. 
    INSPECTION & GAPPING
    Check the plugs for deposits and wear. If they are not going to be replaced, clean the plugs thoroughly.
    Remember that any kind of deposit will decrease the efficiency of the plug. Plugs can be cleaned on a spark
    plug cleaning machine, which can sometimes be found in service stations, or you can do an acceptable job of
    cleaning with a stiff brush. If the plugs are cleaned, the electrodes must be filed flat. Use an ignition points
    file, not an emery board or the like, which will leave deposits. The electrodes must be filed perfectly flat with
    sharp edges; rounded edges reduce the spark plug voltage by as much as 50%.
    Check spark plug gap before installation. The ground electrode (the L-shaped one connected to the body of
    the plug) must be parallel to the center electrode and the specified size wire gauge (please refer to the
    Tune-Up Specifications chart for details) must pass between the electrodes with a slight drag.
    NEVER adjust the gap on a used platinum type spark plug.
    Always check the gap on new plugs as they are not always set correctly at the factory. Do not use a flat feeler
    gauge when measuring the gap on a used plug, because the reading may be inaccurate. A round-wire type
    gapping tool is the best way to check the gap. The correct gauge should pass through the electrode gap with a
    slight drag. If youre in doubt, try one size smaller and one larger. The smaller gauge should go through easily,
    while the larger one shouldnt go through at all. Wire gapping tools usually have a bending tool attached. Use
    that to adjust the side electrode until the proper distance is obtained. Absolutely never attempt to bend the
    center electrode. Also, be careful not to bend the side electrode too far or too often as it may weaken and
    break off within the engine, requiring removal of the cylinder head to retrieve it. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
    82 INSPECTION & GAPPING 
    						
    							Checking the spark plug gap with a feeler gauge
    Adjusting the spark plug gap
    HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
    INSPECTION & GAPPING 83 
    						
    							If the standard plug is in good condition, the electrode may be filed flat-WARNING: do not file
    platinum plugs
    HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
    84 INSPECTION & GAPPING 
    						
    							Inspect the spark plug to determine engine running conditions
    Click to enlarge
    Spark Plug Wires
    REMOVAL & INSTALLATION HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
    Spark Plug Wires 85 
    						
    							Using a spark plug wire removal tool
    Click to enlarge
    When removing spark plug wires, use great care. Grasp and twist the insulator back and forth on the spark
    plug to free the insulator. Do not pull on the wire directly as it may become separated from the connector
    inside the insulator.
    To install:
    Whenever a high tension wire is removed for any reason form a spark plug, coil or distributor terminal
    housing, silicone grease must be applied to the boot before it is reconnected. Using a small clean tool,
    coat the entire interior surface of the boot with Ford silicone grease D7AZ 19A331-A or equivalent.
    Install each wire in or on the proper terminal of the coil pack or distributor cap. Be sure the terminal
    connector inside the insulator is fully seated. The No. 1 terminal is identified on the cap.
    1. 
    Remove wire separators from old wire set and install them on new set in approximately same
    position.
    2. 
    Connect wires to proper spark plugs. Be certain all wires are fully seated on terminals.
    3. 
    TESTING
    Only test one spark plug wire at a time. When the check is complete return the plug wire to its original
    location. If the wire is defective and more wires are to be checked, mark the wire as such, return it to its
    original location, then inspect the other wires. Once all of the wires are checked, replace the defective
    wires one at a time. This will avoid any mix-ups.
    With Distributor HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
    86 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 
    						
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