1991 1999 ford explorer chilton User Manual
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It is recommended that the front wheel bearings be cleaned, inspected and repacked every 30,000 miles (48,000km) and as soon as possible if the front hubs have been submerged in water. Sodium based grease is not compatible with lithium based grease. Be careful not to mix the two types. The best way to prevent this is to completely clean all of the old grease from the hub assembly before installing any new grease. Before handling the bearings there are a few things that you should remember to do and try to avoid. DO the following: Remove all outside dirt from the housing before exposing the bearing. · Treat a used bearing as gently as you would a new one. · Work with clean tools in clean surroundings. · Use clean, dry canvas gloves, or at least clean, dry hands. · Clean solvents and flushing fluids are a must. · Use clean paper when laying out the bearings to dry. · Protect disassembled bearings from rust and dirt. Cover them up. · Use clean rags to wipe bearings. · Keep the bearings in oil-proof paper when they are to be stored or are not in use. · Clean the inside of the housing before replacing the bearing. · Do NOT do the following: Dont work in dirty surroundings. · Dont use dirty, chipped, or damaged tools. · Try not to work on wooden work benches, or use wooden mallets. · Dont handle bearings with dirty or moist hands. · Do not use gasoline for cleaning; use a safe solvent. · Do not spin-dry bearings with compressed air. They will be damaged. · Do not spin unclean bearings. · Avoid using cotton waste or dirty clothes to wipe bearings. · Try not to scratch or nick bearing surfaces. · Do not allow the bearing to come in contact with dirt or rust at any time. · 4WD vehicles should refer to Section 7 for bearing removal. 2WD vehicles should refer to Section 8 for bearing removal. Remove the bearing assemblies from the hub. 1. Do not spin the bearings with compressed air while drying them. Clean the inner and outer bearings with solvent. Thoroughly clean the hub, bearing cups and spindle. Remove any traces of the old grease. Dry all of the components with a soft, lint-free cloth. 2. Inspect the cups for scratches, pits, excessive wear, and other damage. If found, replace them. The cups are removed from the hub by driving them out with a drift pin. They are installed in the same manner. 1. 3. If it is determined that the cups are in satisfactory condition and are to remain in the hub, inspect the bearings in the same manner. Replace the bearings if necessary. 4. When replacing either the bearing or the cup, both parts should be replaced as a unit. Cover the spindle with a clean cloth, and brush all loose dirt from the dust shield. Carefully remove the cloth to prevent dirt from falling from it. 5. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK REPACKING 147
Pack the inside of the hub with wheel bearing grease. Add grease to the hub until the grease is flush with the inside diameter of the bearing cup. 6. Thoroughly pack the bearing with fresh, high temperature wheel-bearing grease before installation Pack the bearing assembly with wheel bearing grease. A bearing packer is desirable for this operation. If a packer is not available, place a large portion of grease into the palm of your hand and sliding the edge of the roller cage through the grease with your other hand, work as much grease in between the rollers as possible. 7. As an alternate method, place a large portion of grease, and the bearing to be packed, into a sealable heavy plastic bag. Squeeze the bag to force the grease into the bearing. This may reduce the mess usually associated with bearing repacking. Apply a thin coat of fresh grease to the new bearing grease seal before installing it into the hubPosition the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup. Apply a light film of grease to the lips of a new grease seal and install the seal into the hub. 8. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 148 REPACKING
Carefully position the hub and rotor assembly onto the spindle. Be careful not to damage the grease seal. 9. Place the outer bearing into position on the spindle and into the bearing cup. Install the adjusting nut finger tight. 10. Adjust the wheel bearings. 11. Install any remaining components which were removed. 12. Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK REPACKING 149
TOWING THE VEHICLE General Recommendations Your vehicle was primarily designed to carry passengers and cargo. It is important to remember that towing a trailer will place additional loads on your vehicles engine, drivetrain, steering, braking and other systems. However, if you decide to tow a trailer, using the prior equipment is a must. Local laws may require specific equipment such as trailer brakes or fender mounted mirrors. Check your local laws. Trailer Weight The weight of the trailer is the most important factor. A good weight-to-horsepower ratio is about 35:1, 35 lbs. of Gross Combined Weight (GCW) for every horsepower your engine develops. Multiply the engines rated horsepower by 35 and subtract the weight of the vehicle passengers and luggage. The number remaining is the approximate ideal maximum weight you should tow, although a numerically higher axle ratio can help compensate for heavier weight. Hitch (Tongue) Weight Calculate the hitch weight in order to select a proper hitch. The weight of the hitch is usually 9-11% of the trailer gross weight and should be measured with the trailer loaded. Hitches fall into various categories: those that mount on the frame and rear bumper, the bolt-on type, or the weld-on distribution type used for larger trailers. Axle mounted or clamp-on bumper hitches should never be used. Calculating proper tongue weight for your trailer Check the gross weight rating of your trailer. Tongue weight is usually figured as 10% of gross trailer weight. Therefore, a trailer with a maximum gross weight of 2000 lbs. will have a maximum tongue weight of 200 lbs. Class I trailers fall into this category. Class II trailers are those with a gross weight rating of 2000-3000 lbs., while Class III trailers fall into the 3500-6000 lbs. category. Class IV trailers are those over 6000 lbs. TOWING THE VEHICLE 151
and are for use with fifth wheel trucks, only. When youve determined the hitch that youll need, follow the manufacturers installation instructions, exactly, especially when it comes to fastener torques. The hitch will subjected to a lot of stress and good hitches come with hardened bolts. Never substitute an inferior bolt for a hardened bolt. Oil Cooler Aftermarket engine oil coolers are helpful for prolonging engine oil life and reducing overall engine temperatures. Both of these factors increase engine life. While not absolutely necessary in towing Class I and some Class II trailers, they are recommended for heavier Class II and all Class III towing. Engine oil cooler systems usually consist of an adapter, screwed on in place of the oil filter, a remote filter mounting and a multi-tube, finned heat exchanger, which is mounted in front of the radiator or air conditioning condenser. TRANSMISSION An automatic transmission is usually recommended for trailer towing. Modern automatics have proven reliable and, of course, easy to operate, in trailer towing. The increased load of a trailer, however, causes an increase in the temperature of the automatic transmission fluid. Heat is the worst enemy of an automatic transmission. As the temperature of the fluid increases, the life of the fluid decreases. It is essential, therefore, that you install an automatic transmission cooler. The cooler, which consists of a multi-tube, finned heat exchanger, is usually installed in front of the radiator or air conditioning compressor, and hooked in-line with the transmission cooler tank inlet line. Follow the cooler manufacturers installation instructions. Select a cooler of at least adequate capacity, based upon the combined gross weights of the vehicle and trailer. Cooler manufacturers recommend that you use an aftermarket cooler in addition to, and not instead of, the present cooling tank in your radiator. If you do want to use it in place of the radiator cooling tank, get a cooler at least two sizes larger than normally necessary. A transmission cooler can, sometimes, cause slow or harsh shifting in the transmission during cold weather, until the fluid has a chance to come up to normal operating temperature. Some coolers can be purchased with or retrofitted with a temperature bypass valve which will allow fluid flow through the cooler only when the fluid has reached above a certain operating temperature. Handling a Trailer Towing a trailer with ease and safety requires a certain amount of experience. Its a good idea to learn the feel of a trailer by practicing turning, stopping and backing in an open area such as an empty parking lot. Towing the Vehicle Ford recommends that a flat bed tow service be utilized. If a flat bed tow truck is not available, tow the vehicle with the rear wheels lifted, front hubs unlocked (4WD models) and the steering wheel locked in the straight ahead position using a clamping device designed for towing. DO NOT lock the steering wheel using only the ignition key activated steering lock, as damage to the steering column can occur. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 152 Hitch (Tongue) Weight
Your truck can be towed forward with the driveshaft connected as long as you do not exceed 35 miles in distance and 50 MPH in speed. Severe damage to the transmission can occur if these limits are exceeded. If your truck has to be towed backward and is a 4WD model, unlock the front axle driving hubs, to prevent the front differential from rotating and place the transfer case in Neutral. Also clamp the steering wheel on all models in the straight ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Towing the Vehicle 153
JUMP STARTING A DEAD BATTERY Introduction Whenever a vehicle is jump started, precautions must be followed in order to prevent the possibility of personal injury. Remember that batteries contain a small amount of explosive hydrogen gas which is a by-product of battery charging. Sparks should always be avoided when working around batteries, especially when attaching jumper cables. To minimize the possibility of accidental sparks, follow the procedure carefully. Connect the jumper cables to the batteries and engine in the order shown Click to enlarge CAUTION NEVER hook the batteries up in a series circuit or the entire electrical system will go up in smoke, including the starter! Vehicles equipped with a diesel engine may utilize two 12 volt batteries. If so, the batteries are connected in a parallel circuit (positive terminal to positive terminal, negative terminal to negative terminal). Hooking the batteries up in parallel circuit increases battery cranking power without increasing total battery voltage output. Output remains at 12 volts. On the other hand, hooking two 12 volt batteries up in a series circuit (positive terminal to negative terminal, positive terminal to negative terminal) increases total battery output to 24 volts (12 volts plus 12 volts). Jump Starting Precautions Be sure that both batteries are of the same voltage. Vehicles covered by this manual and most vehicles on the road today utilize a 12 volt charging system. · Be sure that both batteries are of the same polarity (have the same terminal, in most cases NEGATIVE grounded). · Be sure that the vehicles are not touching or a short could occur. · On serviceable batteries, be sure the vent cap holes are not obstructed. · JUMP STARTING A DEAD BATTERY 155
Do not smoke or allow sparks anywhere near the batteries. · In cold weather, make sure the battery electrolyte is not frozen. This can occur more readily in a battery that has been in a state of discharge. · Do not allow electrolyte to contact your skin or clothing. · Jump Starting Procedure Make sure that the voltages of the 2 batteries are the same. Most batteries and charging systems are of the 12 volt variety. 1. Pull the jumping vehicle (with the good battery) into a position so the jumper cables can reach the dead battery and that vehicles engine. Make sure that the vehicles do NOT touch. 2. Place the transmissions/transaxles of both vehicles in Neutral(MT) or P(AT), as applicable, then firmly set their parking brakes. 3. If necessary for safety reasons, the hazard lights on both vehicles may be operated throughout the entire procedure without significantly increasing the difficulty of jumping the dead battery. Turn all lights and accessories OFF on both vehicles. Make sure the ignition switches on both vehicles are turned to the OFFposition. 4. Cover the battery cell caps with a rag, but do not cover the terminals. 5. Make sure the terminals on both batteries are clean and free of corrosion or proper electrical connection will be impeded. If necessary, clean the battery terminals before proceeding. 6. Identify the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on both batteries. 7. Connect the first jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery, then connect the other end of that cable to the positive (+) terminal of the booster (good) battery. 8. Connect one end of the other jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal on the booster battery and the final cable clamp to an engine bolt head, alternator bracket or other solid, metallic point on the engine with the dead battery. Try to pick a ground on the engine that is positioned away from the battery in order to minimize the possibility of the 2 clamps touching should one loosen during the procedure. DO NOT connect this clamp to the negative (-) terminal of the bad battery. 9. CAUTION Be very careful to keep the jumper cables away from moving parts (cooling fan, belts, etc.) on both engines. Check to make sure that the cables are routed away from any moving parts, then start the donor vehicles engine. Run the engine at moderate speed for several minutes to allow the dead battery a chance to receive some initial charge. 10. With the donor vehicles engine still running slightly above idle, try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. Crank the engine for no more than 10 seconds at a time and let the starter cool for at least 20 seconds between tries. If the vehicle does not start in 3 tries, it is likely that something else is also wrong or that the battery needs additional time to charge. 11. Once the vehicle is started, allow it to run at idle for a few seconds to make sure that it is operating properly. 12. Turn ON the headlights, heater blower and, if equipped, the rear defroster of both vehicles in order to reduce the severity of voltage spikes and subsequent risk of damage to the vehicles electrical systems when the cables are disconnected. This step is especially important to any vehicle equipped with computer control modules. 13. Carefully disconnect the cables in the reverse order of connection. Start with the negative cable that is attached to the engine ground, then the negative cable on the donor battery. Disconnect the positive cable from the donor battery and finally, disconnect the positive cable from the formerly dead battery. Be careful when disconnecting the cables from the positive terminals not to allow the alligator clips to touch any metal on either vehicle or a short and sparks will occur. 14. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 156 Jump Starting Precautions
Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Jump Starting Procedure 157
JACKING Jack positioning-2WD modelsClick to enlarge Jack positioning-4WD models Click to enlarge JACKING 159