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Singer Serger Professional 5 Manual

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    Note: Follow the instructions given below when sewingcover stitches because chaining-off at the end of
    sewing is not possible.
    Raise presser foot by lowering the presser bar lifter.
    Place material under presser foot behind the needle.
    Lower presser foot .
    by raising the presser bar lifter
    Note: When you start to sew from the middle of the fabric, place the fabric at the desired
    starting point of sewing.
    Additional Information About Cover Stitch
    Start and end of sewing
    At start of sewing 
    						
    							looper thread
    Underside
    Cover stitch
    Left needle thread
    Topside looper thread
    Cover stitch
    Underside
    Underside
    Cover stitch right needle thread
    Cover stitch right needle thread
    Undersidelooper thread
    Cover stitch
    Cover stitch right needle thread Cover stitch
    Topside
    Topside
    Cover stitch
    Left needle thread Topside
    Left needle thread Cover stitch Left needle thread
    Cover stitch N~4
    STITCH LENGTH
    C
    Cover stitch right needle thread
    Undersidelooper thread
    Cover stitch
    looper thread
    Cover stitch
    Cover stitch right needle thread
    Orange
    Polyester Woolly nylon looper Thread Cover stitch Topside
    Green
    Tension Dial
    Blue Red
    DRIVING CLUTCH POSITION
    Left needle thread Cover stitch Brown
    R
    SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB NEEDLE POSITION
    Polyester Woolly nylon Cover stitch
    looper Thread Tension Dial
    Orange Blue Red Green Brown
    Tension is automatically set when seiecting the
    desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD).
    Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers
    according to the following variables:
    1) Type and thickness of fabric
    2) Needle size
    3) Size, type and fibre content of thread
    51
    Set auto tension dial to K as shown on illustration or H and
    test sew on a sample of your fabric.
    * Stitch length for cover stitch should be set at
    over N (2.5 mm).
    When the cover stitch looper thread is too loose;
    -Move the cover stitch looper thread tension lever
    (brown) fine tuning
    toward a higher position.
    When the cover stitch left needle thread tension is too
    loose;
    - the cover stitch left needle thread tension Move fine tuning
    lever position (orange) toward a higher .
    -Or, cover stitch looper thread tension
    (brown) move
    fine tuning lever
    toward a lower position.
    When the cover stitch right needle thread tension is too
    loose;
    - the cover stitch right needle thread tension Move fine tuning
    lever position
    (blue) or (orange) toward a higher .
    - Or, the cover stitch looper thread tension move fine tuning
    lever position
    (brown) toward a lower .
    When the top surface of fabric bulges between needle
    threads and the seams on the underside of the fabric
    becomes tight;
    - the cover stitch looper thread tension move fine tuning
    lever position
    (brown) toward a lower .ATD:K
    ATD:H
    How to Balance
    2-Thread Cover Stitch Suggested Tension Settings
    Correct Balance 
    						
    							Cover stitchUnderside
    Cover stitch
    middle needle thread Underside looper thread
    Cover stitch
    Cover stitch
    middle needle thread Underside Cover stitch
    looper thread
    middle needle thread
    Cover stitch looper thread
    Underside
    Cover stitch
    Left needle thread Topside
    Topside
    Cover stitch right needle thread
    Left needle thread
    Cover stitch right needle thread
    Cover stitch Topside
    Left needle thread
    Cover stitch right needle thread
    Left needle thread
    Cover stitch Topside
    Cover stitch
    Cover stitchlooper thread
    middle needle thread
    Cover stitch
    middle needle thread Cover stitch
    Topside
    Cover stitch right needle thread Left needle thread Cover stitch
    Cover stitch right needle thread
    Undersidelooper thread
    Cover stitch
    Tension Dial
    STITCH LENGTH
    looper Thread
    Polyester Woolly nylon Cover stitch Blue
    Orange
    Green
    DRIVING CLUTCH POSTION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOBNEEDLE POSITION
    N~4
    Brown
    Red
    C R
    Tension is automatically set when seiecting the
    desired stitch
    type
    
    with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD).
    Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers
    according to the following variables:
    1) Type and thickness of fabric
    2) Needle size
    3) Size, type and fibre content of thread
    * Stitch length for cover stitch should be set at over N (2.5 mm).
    52
    sew on a sample of your fabric.
    When the cover stitch looper thread is too loose;
    -Move the cover stitch looper thread tension lever
    (brown) fine tuning
    toward a higher position.
    When the cover stitch left needle thread tension is too
    loose;
    - the cover stitch left needle thread tension Move fine tuning
    lever position (orange) toward a higher .
    -Or, cover stitch looper thread tension
    (brown) move
    fine tuning lever
    toward a lower position.
    When the cover stitch middle needle thread tension is
    too loose;
    - the cover stitch middle needle thread tension Move fine tuning
    lever position
    (blue) toward a higher .
    -Or, cover stitch looper thread tension
    (brown) move
    fine tuning lever
    toward a lower position.
    When the cover stitch right needle thread tension is too
    loose;
    - the cover stitch right needle thread tension Move fine tuning
    lever position
    (green) toward a higher .
    -Or, the cover stitch looper thread tension move fine tuning
    lever position
    (brown) toward a lower .
    When the top surface of fabric bulges between needle
    threads and the seams on the underside of the fabric
    becomes tight;
    - the cover stitch looper thread tension move fine tuning
    lever position
    (brown) toward a lower .
    Set auto tension dial to J as shown on illustration and test
    How to Balance
    3-Thread Cover Stitch Suggested Tension Settings
    Correct Balance
    ATD:J 
    						
    							53
    Since the seams formed by cover stitch unravel when the
    looper thread is pulled out at the end of sewing, secure the
    seam end in the following manner.When sewing through to the edge of fabric, among
    the threads coming out of the fabric edge, knot the
    needle threads (2 or 3 threads) together first, as shown
    on the illustration. Then, tie these threads with the
    looper threads.
    When sewing is stopped halfway, pull out the needle
    threads (2 or 3 threads) on the underside of the fabric and
    knot the threads in the same manner as described
    above.
    Cut extra threads.
    Note: Normally, the seams at the start of sewing do not unravel, but it is safe to secure the seam
    end following the same steps as described
    when sewing through to the edge of fabric.
    Securing the seam end 
    						
    							54
    This machine can sew four types of rolled hems.
    Rolled hemming is done by rolling and overedgingthe fabric edge.
    Light weight fabrics such as lawn, voile, organdy,
    crepe, etc. perform the best.
    Rolled hemming is not suited for heavy or stiff
    fabrics.
    NOTE: Rolled hemming can only be performed with the overedge right needle.
    Remove the overedge left needle, chain stitch
    needle and cover stitch needle(s).
    Move seam width finger knob to setting R.
    Align left face of seam width finger support plate
    with R mark on needle plate by turning seam width
    adjustment knob, as required.
    Set stitch length dial to 1~2 and a fine seam
    will be sewn.
    Needle: Singer Cat. No. 2022 #14/90 or 2022 #11/80
    Thread: A variety of thread combinations can be
    used for rolled hemming.
    Be sure to turn off power switch.
    N
    2
    1
    Machine Set up
    24. HOW TO SEW A ROLLED HEM
    Caution:
    R 
    						
    							55
    Set auto tension dial to A as shown on illustration
    and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
    Note: For a beautiful rolled hem thread the upper looper
    with wooly nylon and the needle and lower looper
    with lightweight regular thread.
    Set auto tension dial to C as shown on illustration
    and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
    Tension Dial
    Orange Blue Green Red Brown
    Light Weight
    fabric
    Woolly nylon
    Tension Dial
    Orange Blue
    Green Red Brown
    Woolly nylon
    Upper looper thread
    Lower looper thread
    Needle thread
    Topside Underside
    Upper looper thread Lower looper thread
    Needle thread
    Needle thread
    Topside
    Underside
    NEEDLE POSITION
    SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R
    STITCH LENGTH 1~2
    DRIVING CLUTCH POSITION L
    Polyester
    PolyesterLight Weight
    fabric
    Correct Balance 1) 3-thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching
    2) 3-thread Upper Looper Thread Wrapped Rolled Hem Stitching
    Correct Balance
    ATD:A
    ATD:C 
    						
    							56
    Set auto tension dial to E as shown on illustration and
    test sew on a sample of your fabric.
    Note: For a beautiful rolled hem thread the lower looper
    with wooly nylon and the needle with lightweight
    regular thread.
    Convert upper looper to spreader. (See page 36)
    Set auto tension dial to D as shown on illustration and
    test sew on a sample of your fabric.
    Tension Dial
    Orange Blue Green Red Brown
    Light Weight
    fabric
    Tension Dial
    Orange Blue Green Red Brown
    Woolly nylon Woolly nylon
    Lower looper thread
    Needle thread
    Topside Underside
    Lower looper thread
    Needle thread
    Topside
    Underside
    NEEDLE POSITION
    SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R
    STITCH LENGTH 1~2
    Polyester
    Light Weight
    fabric
    ATD:D ATD:E
    Spreader
    SPREADER
    USE
    Spreader Spreader
    Correct Balance3) 2-thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching
    4) 2-thread Lower Thread Wrapped
    Rolled Hem Stitching
    Correct Balance 
    						
    							57
    Hold the thread chain when you begin sewing to
    keep it from curling into the seam.Apply a small drop of liquid seam sealant to the
    end of the seam. Allow to dry, then cut the chain
    close to the stitches.
    Note: Test the liquid seam sealant for color fastness before use.
    Place a slight tension on the material in the sewing
    direction and a finer seam finish can be obtained.
    The minimum overedge stitch width that can be
    obtained for rolled hemming is approximately
    1.5 mm (1/16 inch) since the cutting width cannot
    be set below 3.5 mm (9/64 inch).
    To Secure the Rolled Hem Thread Chain Additional Information About Rolled Hemming 
    						
    							Lower looper threadNeedle thread
    Underside
    Upper looper thread
    Topside
    Needle thread
    58
    A flatlock stitch is achieved by adjusting the tension
    of the 2-thread or 3-thread overlock stitch, sewing the seam,
    and then pulling the fabric apart to flatten the seam.
    The flatlock stitch can be used as a construction and
    decorative stitch or for ornamentation only.
    Use either overedge right needle or overedge left needle.
    Begin with the machine threaded and tension ATD-E
    balanced for the 2-thread overedge (page 42) or
    3-thread flatlock stitch ATD-F (page 44). Place the fabric wrong sides together to sew a decorative
    stitch on the right side of the garment.
    Sew the seam, trimming the excess fabric.
    The needle thread (orange or blue) will formaVonthe
    underside of the fabric.
    The lower looper thread will pull into a straight line at the
    fabric edge.
    Pull on opposite sides of the seam to pull the stitches flat.
    How to Sew a Flatlock Decorative Seam
    1) Machine Set Up
    2) Flatlocking a Seam
    25. STITCH VARIATIONS AND SEWING TECHNIQUES 
    						
    							TopsideUnderside
    A
    59
    Place the movable upper knife in the nonworking
    position (page 35). The fabric is not trimmed on
    this stitch.
    Fold fabric wrong sides together.
    Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with part
    of the stitch extending off the fabric.
    Pull on opposite sides of the stitch to flatten.
    The tensions must be correctly fine tuned for the
    fabric to pull flat.
    The upper looper thread is the prominent thread
    in the flatlock stitch. Place a decorative thread
    in the upper looper and inconspicuous threads
    in the lower looper and needle.
    For a ladder stitch, sew seam with right sides
    together. The needle thread will be the prominent
    thread that creates the ladder (A).
    (3) Decorative Flatlocking
    (4) Additional Information About Flatlocking
    2 1 
    						
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