Singer Serger Professional 5 Manual
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50 Note: Follow the instructions given below when sewingcover stitches because chaining-off at the end of sewing is not possible. Raise presser foot by lowering the presser bar lifter. Place material under presser foot behind the needle. Lower presser foot . by raising the presser bar lifter Note: When you start to sew from the middle of the fabric, place the fabric at the desired starting point of sewing. Additional Information About Cover Stitch Start and end of sewing At start of sewing
looper thread Underside Cover stitch Left needle thread Topside looper thread Cover stitch Underside Underside Cover stitch right needle thread Cover stitch right needle thread Undersidelooper thread Cover stitch Cover stitch right needle thread Cover stitch Topside Topside Cover stitch Left needle thread Topside Left needle thread Cover stitch Left needle thread Cover stitch N~4 STITCH LENGTH C Cover stitch right needle thread Undersidelooper thread Cover stitch looper thread Cover stitch Cover stitch right needle thread Orange Polyester Woolly nylon looper Thread Cover stitch Topside Green Tension Dial Blue Red DRIVING CLUTCH POSITION Left needle thread Cover stitch Brown R SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB NEEDLE POSITION Polyester Woolly nylon Cover stitch looper Thread Tension Dial Orange Blue Red Green Brown Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables: 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fibre content of thread 51 Set auto tension dial to K as shown on illustration or H and test sew on a sample of your fabric. * Stitch length for cover stitch should be set at over N (2.5 mm). When the cover stitch looper thread is too loose; -Move the cover stitch looper thread tension lever (brown) fine tuning toward a higher position. When the cover stitch left needle thread tension is too loose; - the cover stitch left needle thread tension Move fine tuning lever position (orange) toward a higher . -Or, cover stitch looper thread tension (brown) move fine tuning lever toward a lower position. When the cover stitch right needle thread tension is too loose; - the cover stitch right needle thread tension Move fine tuning lever position (blue) or (orange) toward a higher . - Or, the cover stitch looper thread tension move fine tuning lever position (brown) toward a lower . When the top surface of fabric bulges between needle threads and the seams on the underside of the fabric becomes tight; - the cover stitch looper thread tension move fine tuning lever position (brown) toward a lower .ATD:K ATD:H How to Balance 2-Thread Cover Stitch Suggested Tension Settings Correct Balance
Cover stitchUnderside Cover stitch middle needle thread Underside looper thread Cover stitch Cover stitch middle needle thread Underside Cover stitch looper thread middle needle thread Cover stitch looper thread Underside Cover stitch Left needle thread Topside Topside Cover stitch right needle thread Left needle thread Cover stitch right needle thread Cover stitch Topside Left needle thread Cover stitch right needle thread Left needle thread Cover stitch Topside Cover stitch Cover stitchlooper thread middle needle thread Cover stitch middle needle thread Cover stitch Topside Cover stitch right needle thread Left needle thread Cover stitch Cover stitch right needle thread Undersidelooper thread Cover stitch Tension Dial STITCH LENGTH looper Thread Polyester Woolly nylon Cover stitch Blue Orange Green DRIVING CLUTCH POSTION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOBNEEDLE POSITION N~4 Brown Red C R Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables: 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fibre content of thread * Stitch length for cover stitch should be set at over N (2.5 mm). 52 sew on a sample of your fabric. When the cover stitch looper thread is too loose; -Move the cover stitch looper thread tension lever (brown) fine tuning toward a higher position. When the cover stitch left needle thread tension is too loose; - the cover stitch left needle thread tension Move fine tuning lever position (orange) toward a higher . -Or, cover stitch looper thread tension (brown) move fine tuning lever toward a lower position. When the cover stitch middle needle thread tension is too loose; - the cover stitch middle needle thread tension Move fine tuning lever position (blue) toward a higher . -Or, cover stitch looper thread tension (brown) move fine tuning lever toward a lower position. When the cover stitch right needle thread tension is too loose; - the cover stitch right needle thread tension Move fine tuning lever position (green) toward a higher . -Or, the cover stitch looper thread tension move fine tuning lever position (brown) toward a lower . When the top surface of fabric bulges between needle threads and the seams on the underside of the fabric becomes tight; - the cover stitch looper thread tension move fine tuning lever position (brown) toward a lower . Set auto tension dial to J as shown on illustration and test How to Balance 3-Thread Cover Stitch Suggested Tension Settings Correct Balance ATD:J
53 Since the seams formed by cover stitch unravel when the looper thread is pulled out at the end of sewing, secure the seam end in the following manner.When sewing through to the edge of fabric, among the threads coming out of the fabric edge, knot the needle threads (2 or 3 threads) together first, as shown on the illustration. Then, tie these threads with the looper threads. When sewing is stopped halfway, pull out the needle threads (2 or 3 threads) on the underside of the fabric and knot the threads in the same manner as described above. Cut extra threads. Note: Normally, the seams at the start of sewing do not unravel, but it is safe to secure the seam end following the same steps as described when sewing through to the edge of fabric. Securing the seam end
54 This machine can sew four types of rolled hems. Rolled hemming is done by rolling and overedgingthe fabric edge. Light weight fabrics such as lawn, voile, organdy, crepe, etc. perform the best. Rolled hemming is not suited for heavy or stiff fabrics. NOTE: Rolled hemming can only be performed with the overedge right needle. Remove the overedge left needle, chain stitch needle and cover stitch needle(s). Move seam width finger knob to setting R. Align left face of seam width finger support plate with R mark on needle plate by turning seam width adjustment knob, as required. Set stitch length dial to 1~2 and a fine seam will be sewn. Needle: Singer Cat. No. 2022 #14/90 or 2022 #11/80 Thread: A variety of thread combinations can be used for rolled hemming. Be sure to turn off power switch. N 2 1 Machine Set up 24. HOW TO SEW A ROLLED HEM Caution: R
55 Set auto tension dial to A as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric. Note: For a beautiful rolled hem thread the upper looper with wooly nylon and the needle and lower looper with lightweight regular thread. Set auto tension dial to C as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric. Tension Dial Orange Blue Green Red Brown Light Weight fabric Woolly nylon Tension Dial Orange Blue Green Red Brown Woolly nylon Upper looper thread Lower looper thread Needle thread Topside Underside Upper looper thread Lower looper thread Needle thread Needle thread Topside Underside NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R STITCH LENGTH 1~2 DRIVING CLUTCH POSITION L Polyester PolyesterLight Weight fabric Correct Balance 1) 3-thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching 2) 3-thread Upper Looper Thread Wrapped Rolled Hem Stitching Correct Balance ATD:A ATD:C
56 Set auto tension dial to E as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric. Note: For a beautiful rolled hem thread the lower looper with wooly nylon and the needle with lightweight regular thread. Convert upper looper to spreader. (See page 36) Set auto tension dial to D as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric. Tension Dial Orange Blue Green Red Brown Light Weight fabric Tension Dial Orange Blue Green Red Brown Woolly nylon Woolly nylon Lower looper thread Needle thread Topside Underside Lower looper thread Needle thread Topside Underside NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R STITCH LENGTH 1~2 Polyester Light Weight fabric ATD:D ATD:E Spreader SPREADER USE Spreader Spreader Correct Balance3) 2-thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching 4) 2-thread Lower Thread Wrapped Rolled Hem Stitching Correct Balance
57 Hold the thread chain when you begin sewing to keep it from curling into the seam.Apply a small drop of liquid seam sealant to the end of the seam. Allow to dry, then cut the chain close to the stitches. Note: Test the liquid seam sealant for color fastness before use. Place a slight tension on the material in the sewing direction and a finer seam finish can be obtained. The minimum overedge stitch width that can be obtained for rolled hemming is approximately 1.5 mm (1/16 inch) since the cutting width cannot be set below 3.5 mm (9/64 inch). To Secure the Rolled Hem Thread Chain Additional Information About Rolled Hemming
Lower looper threadNeedle thread Underside Upper looper thread Topside Needle thread 58 A flatlock stitch is achieved by adjusting the tension of the 2-thread or 3-thread overlock stitch, sewing the seam, and then pulling the fabric apart to flatten the seam. The flatlock stitch can be used as a construction and decorative stitch or for ornamentation only. Use either overedge right needle or overedge left needle. Begin with the machine threaded and tension ATD-E balanced for the 2-thread overedge (page 42) or 3-thread flatlock stitch ATD-F (page 44). Place the fabric wrong sides together to sew a decorative stitch on the right side of the garment. Sew the seam, trimming the excess fabric. The needle thread (orange or blue) will formaVonthe underside of the fabric. The lower looper thread will pull into a straight line at the fabric edge. Pull on opposite sides of the seam to pull the stitches flat. How to Sew a Flatlock Decorative Seam 1) Machine Set Up 2) Flatlocking a Seam 25. STITCH VARIATIONS AND SEWING TECHNIQUES
TopsideUnderside A 59 Place the movable upper knife in the nonworking position (page 35). The fabric is not trimmed on this stitch. Fold fabric wrong sides together. Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with part of the stitch extending off the fabric. Pull on opposite sides of the stitch to flatten. The tensions must be correctly fine tuned for the fabric to pull flat. The upper looper thread is the prominent thread in the flatlock stitch. Place a decorative thread in the upper looper and inconspicuous threads in the lower looper and needle. For a ladder stitch, sew seam with right sides together. The needle thread will be the prominent thread that creates the ladder (A). (3) Decorative Flatlocking (4) Additional Information About Flatlocking 2 1