Singer Serger Professional 5 Manual
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30 To change thread type or color, clip thread near thespool. Place new thread on stand. Tie new thread and old thread ends together with a square knot. Clip thread tails to 2~3cm (1 inch) length. If clipped too short, threads may come untied. Firmly pull both thread to test knot security. Raise Presser foot to release Tension discs. by lowering presser bar lifter Pull the threads through the machine one at a time. If threads do not pull easily, check for tangles on thread guides or looping under thread stand. When pulling thread through the needles, STOP when the knot is in front of the needle. Cut the thread, and insert it through the needle. 13. HOW TO CHANGE THREADS: TIE ON METHOD
(3/8) 9.8 mm needle 7.8 mm Chain stitch (5/16) Left needle (13/64) 7mm (17/64) 5mm Right needle 3mm (1/8) 5mm (3/16) needle 8.8 mm Chain stitch (11/32) (10/64) (15/64) Left needle Right needle 6.0 mm 4.0 mm 31 The stitch length dial should be set on the N setting for most sewing conditions. Adjust the stitch length to N~ 4 when sewing heavy weight fabrics. Adjust the stitch length to 2~N when sewing lightweight fabrics to obtain excellent seams without puckering. Overedge seam width can be achieved by repositioning the needle position and also with the width adjustment knob. Overedge seam width can be adjusted by changing the needle position. a) When using left needle.................................6 mm (15/64 inch) b) When only right needle is used....................4 mm (10/64 inch) c) When using chain stitch needle.................8.8 mm (11/32 inch) Use of width adjustment knob will permit further adjustment within the width range shown below. a) When using left needle...............................5~7mm (13/64 ~ 17/64 inch) b) When only right needle is used............3.0 ~ 5.0 mm (1/8 ~ 3/16 inch) c) When using chain stitch needle............7.8 ~ 9.8 mm (5/16 ~ 3/8 inch) 4 3 N 2 Width Adjustment by Changing Needle Position Width Adjustment with Adjustment Knob 14. HOW TO ADJUST THE STITCHLENGTH 15. HOW TO ADJUST THE SEAM WIDTH
5 6.5 N 5.5 4 N 2 1 32 As shown on the illustration, turn the dialcounter clockwise to increase width of cutting, and clockwise to decrease width of cutting. The presser foot pressure of this machine is pre-adjusted at the factory to suit the sewing of medium weight fabrics. Most of the materials do not require adjustment of presser foot pressure. However, there are some instances where adjustment is necessary, such as when sewing lightweight and heavyweight fabrics. In such case, N for normal, 1 for the lightest pressure, and 5 for the heaviest. For lightweight fabric...Decrease the pressure For heavyweight fabric...Increase the pressure 16. HOW TO ADJUST THE PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE Width adjustment knob
33 Differential feed is a system which stretches or gathers the fabric, when the amount of feed of front feed dogs in relation to the rear feed dogs is changed. The differential feed ratio ranges from 1:0.6~1:2.0. Adjustment is made by means of the differential feed adjusting dial pictured at right. Use of differential feed is very effective in overedging stretch fabrics and fabrics cut on the bias. Setting N is differential feed adjusting dial setting for ratio 1:1. Gathered overedge is most suited for shirring sleeves, yokes, front and back bodices, skirt hems, etc. in stretch fabrics such as knits and jersey before assembling into garment. Set differential feed adjusting dial below setting N. Setting of adjusting dial depends on material being sewn as well as the amount of desired gather. Therefore, set dial to suit the fabric and test sew before sewing your garment. Note: For normal overedge stitching, set differential feed adjusting dial to graduation N. 0.8 0.6 N 1.5 2.0 N 0.8 0.6 2.0 1.5 To set the differential feed adjusting dial for gathering Gathered Overedge 17. DIFFERENTIAL FEED
N 0.8 0.6 2.0 1.5 34 Stretch overedge is ideal for sewing decorative collars, sleeves, skirt hems, etc. on loosely knit and woven fabrics. Set differential feed adjusting lever knob above setting N. To sew a seam, apply gentle tension to the fabric by holding the seam lightly in front and back of the presser foot. Note: *if amount of stretch is not correctly set in relation to the fabric being sewn, the fabric is apt to shift away from the needle resulting in improperly sewn overedge seam. In such case, reset differential feed adjusting dial closer to the center mark. *Be sure to reset the differential feed adjusting dial to graduation N for normal overedge stitching. Stretch Overedge To set the differential feed adjusting dial for stretch
21 2 1 Caution: Caution: 35 Open looper cover (page 12). Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as it will go. Turn the holder toward counter clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position. Be sure to turn off power switch. Open looper cover. Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as it will go. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into the working position Always close looper cover before operating machine. To place movable knife in working positionTo place movable knife in nonworking position 18. HOW TO DISENGAGE MOVABLE UPPER KNIFE
36 To engage the spread , raise the white handle on the spreader to insert the tip into theer eye of upper looper. When not threading the upper looper, the spreader must be engaged into the upper looper eye. When using the upper looper, the spread must beer disengaged. Be sure to turn off power switch. To disengage the spreader, lower the white handle on the spreader. 19. TO CONVERT UPPER LOOPER TO SPREADER To Use the Spreader To Disengage to Upper Looper Caution:
R N R N 37 Set seam width finger knob to N to move seam width finger to standard overedge sewing position. Set seam width finger knob to R to retract the seam width finger and set it for rolled hem. Note: Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far as it will go in the direction of setting R. Note: Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far as it will go in the direction of setting N. To Sew Rolled Hem To Sew Standard Overedge 20. STANDARD OVEREDGE AND ROLLED HEM STITCHING
38 Note: The following instructions do not apply to coverstitch. For instructions on cover stitch, see page 49 How to Sew a Cover Stitch. When the machine is completely threaded, bring all of the threads across the needle plate and slightly to the left under the presser foot. Hold the threads and apply a slight tension. Turn the hand wheel toward you 2 or 3 complete turns to start the thread chain. Lower presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter. Continue holding the chain and press on the foot controller until the chain is 5~7.5 cm (2~3 inches) in length. Place fabric under the front of the presser foot and sew a test sample. Note: Do not pull on the fabric while sewing as this may deflect the needle, causing it to break. At the end of the sample, continue to run the machine with the presser foot down until the chain reaches 15 ~20 cm (6~8 inches) in length. Note: In case it is difficult to chain off when chain stitching, pull the fabric lightly backward. Cut thread. Note: Anytime you have rethreaded the machine always chain off and sew a text sample totest tensions and make adjustments as necessary. A mark to indicate the needle location is provided on the presser foot fitted on this machine. Use this mark as a guide when sewing. Mark Mark 21. CHAINING OFF AND TEST SEWING Information
39 Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables: 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fibre content of thread * Stitch length for double chain stitch should beset at over 2mm. When the chain stitch needle thread tension is too loose; -Move the needle thread tension fine tuning lever (blue) toward a higher position. -Or, move the chain stitch looper thread tension fine tuning lever (brown) toward a lower position. Set auto tension dial to D and as shown on illustration test sew on a sample of your fabric. Needle threadTopside Underside Chain stitch looper thread Medium weight FabricRed Blue Green Orange Brown Tension Dial Topside Underside STITCH LENGTH NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB DRIVING CULTCH POSITION Needle thread Chain stitch looper thread C R 2~4 1) Double Chain stitch How to Balance Correct Balance 22. SETTINGS AND SEWINGATD:D