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Brother Quattro 3 User Manual

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    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    Utility Stitches
    129
    3
    cAttach presser foot “J”. Align the center of 
    the presser foot with the middle of the 
    space between the fabrics and begin 
    sewing. 
    aBasting stitches
    dWhen sewing is finished, gently tear the 
    paper away. 
    Tape or Elastic Attaching 
    aSelect a straight stitch and attach presser 
    foot “J”. 
    bSet the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 
    3/16 inch), and loosen the upper thread 
    tension to 2.0 (see “Setting the Stitch 
    Length” on page 79 and “Setting the Thread 
    Tension” on page 79).
    cSew two rows of straight stitches on the 
    right side of the fabric, then pull the bobbin 
    thread to create the necessary gather.
    dPlace the tape over the gather, and hold it 
    in place with basting pins.
    aTape 
    eSelect  or .
    fSew over the tape (or elastic).
    Memo
     Use a thick thread.
    Memo
     Be sure that neither automatic reinforcement 
     nor automatic thread cutting   is 
    selected.
    Memo
     Before sewing the straight stitch, rotate the  handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) 
    and pull up the bobbin thread. Holding the 
    top and bobbin thread, pull a length of 
    thread out from the rear of the machine. (Be 
    sure that the presser foot is raised.)
    Memo
     For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of 
    this manual.
     CAUTION
     Be sure the needle does not strike a basting 
    pin, or any other objects, during sewing. The 
    thread could tangle or the needle could break, 
    causing injury.  
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    130
    gPull out the straight stitch threads.
    Heirloom 
    ■Hemstitching (1) (Daisy Stitch) 
    Use for sewing tablecloths, decorative hems, and 
    decorative stitching on shirt fronts.
    aInsert a type 130/705H, size 100/16 Wing 
    needle.
    * This specialty sewing needle is not furnished with 
    your machine. Must be purchased separately.
    bSelect a stitch and attach presser foot “N”.
    * Select any stitch between 3-01 and 3-25.
    cStart sewing.
    Example: Illustration of finished product
    ■Hemstitching (2) (Drawn Work (1))
    aPull out several threads from one area on a 
    piece of fabric to open the area. 
    * Pull out 5 or 6 threads to leave a 3 mm 
    (approx. 1/8 inch) area open.
    Memo
     Use a light to medium weight homespun fab-ric with a little stiffness. 
     CAUTION
     The “Automatic Threading” button cannot be 
    used. Thread the wing needle by hand, from 
    front to back. Using the “Automatic 
    Threading” button may result in damage to the 
    machine. 
     A more attractive finish can be obtained if you  use a “130/705H Wing” needle when sewing 
    these patterns. If using a wing needle and the 
    stitch width has been set manually, check that 
    the needle will not touch the presser foot by 
    carefully rotating the handwheel toward you 
    (counterclockwise) before starting to sew. 
    Memo
     For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of 
    this manual.
    Memo
     Loosely woven fabrics work best for this.  
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    Utility Stitches
    131
    3
    bSelect .
    cAttach presser foot “N”. With the right side 
    of the fabric facing up, sew one edge of the 
    open area.
    dPress   to create a mirror image of the 
    stitch.
    eMatch beginning needle drop points on the 
    opposite edge of the open area to keep the 
    stitching symmetrical.
    ■Hemstitching (3) (Drawn Work (2))
    aPull out several threads from both sides of 
    the 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) area which 
    are not yet open. 
    * Pull out four threads, leave five threads, and then 
    pull out four threads. The width of five threads is 
    approximately 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) or less. 
    a Approx. 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) or less 
    b Four threads (pull out) 
    c Five threads (leave) 
    bSelect .
    cSew the decorative stitch in the center of 
    the five threads created above.
    Memo
     For details on each stitch, refer to the 
    “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of 
    this manual.
    Memo
     For details on each stitch, refer to the 
    “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of 
    this manual.
    Memo
     A wing needle can be used for Hemstitching (3). 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    132
    One-step Buttonholes 
    With one-step buttonholes, you can make buttonholes appropriate to the size of your button.
    StitchStitch namePresser footApplications
    Stitch width [mm (inch)]Stitch length  [mm (inch)]Tw in  
    needle
    AutoManualAutoManual
    Narrow rounded 
    buttonhole Buttonhole on light to medium 
    weight fabrics
    5.0
    (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0
    (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Wide round ended 
    buttonhole Buttonholes with extra space for 
    larger buttons
    5.5
    (7/32) 3.5 - 5.5
    (1/8 - 7/32) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Tapered round 
    ended buttonhole Reinforced waist tapered 
    buttonholes
    5.0
    (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0
    (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Round ended 
    buttonhole Buttonholes with vertical bar 
    tack in heavyweight fabrics
    5.0
    (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0
    (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Round ended 
    buttonhole Buttonholes with bar tack
    5.0
    (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0
    (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Round double ended 
    buttonhole Buttonholes for fine, medium to 
    heavyweight fabrics
    5.0
    (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0
    (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Narrow squared 
    buttonhole Buttonholes for light to medium 
    weight fabrics
    5.0
    (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0
    (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Wide squared 
    buttonhole Buttonholes with extra space for 
    larger decorative buttons
    5.5
    (7/32) 3.5 - 5.5
    (1/8 - 7/32) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/
     64 - 1/16) NO
    Squared buttonhole Heavy-duty buttonholes with 
    vertical bar tacks5.0
    (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0
    (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Stretch buttonhole Buttonholes for stretch or woven 
    fabrics6.0
    (15/ 64) 3.0 - 6.0
    (1/8 - 15/64) 1.0
    (1/16) 0.5 - 2.0
    (1/32 - 1/16) NO
    Heirloom buttonhole Buttonholes for heirloom and 
    stretch fabrics6.0
    (15/ 64) 3.0 - 6.0
    (1/8 - 15/64) 1.5
    (1/16) 1.0 - 3.0
    (1/1 - 1/8) NO
    Bound buttonhole The first step in making bound 
    buttonholes5.0
    (3/16) 0.0 - 6.0
    (0 - 15/64) 2.0
    (1/16) 0.2 - 4.0
    (1/64 - 3/16) NO
    Keyhole buttonhole Buttonholes in heavyweight or 
    thick fabrics for larger flat 
    buttons7.0
    (1/4) 3.0 - 7.0
    (1/8 - 1/4) 0.5
    (1/32) 0.3 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Tapered keyhole 
    buttonhole Buttonholes in medium to heavy 
    weight fabrics for larger flat 
    buttons7.0
    (1/4) 3.0 - 7.0
    (1/8 - 1/4) 0.5
    (1/32) 0.3 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Keyhole buttonhole Buttonholes with vertical bar 
    tack for reinforcement in 
    heavyweight or thick fabrics7.0
    (1/4) 3.0 - 7.0
    (1/8 - 1/4) 0.5
    (1/32) 0.3 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    Utility Stitches
    133
    3
    One-step buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
    aReinforcement stitching
    aSelect a buttonhole stitch, and attach 
    buttonhole foot “A”.
    bMark the position and length of the 
    buttonhole on the fabric.
    cPull out the button holder plate on the 
    presser foot, and insert the button that will 
    be put through the buttonhole. Then tighten 
    the button holder plate around the button. 
    aButton holder plate
    dAlign the presser foot with the mark on the 
    fabric, and lower the presser foot.
    aMark on the fabric 
    b Marks on the presser foot
    Memo
     The maximum buttonhole length is about 
    28 mm (approx. 1-1/16 inches) (diameter + 
    thickness of the button).Memo
     The size of the buttonhole is determined by 
    the size of the button in the button holder 
    plate.
    A 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    134
    eLower the buttonhole lever so that it is 
    positioned behind the metal bracket on the 
    buttonhole foot.
    aButtonhole lever
    a Metal bracket 
    fGently hold the end of the upper thread, 
    and then start sewing. 
    * Feed the fabric carefully by hand while the 
    buttonhole is sewn.
    → Once sewing is completed, the machine 
    automatically sews reinforcement stitches, and then 
    stops.
    gInsert a pin along the inside of one of the 
    bar tacks, and then insert the seam ripper 
    into the center of the buttonhole and cut 
    towards the pin.
    aBasting pin
    b Seam ripper
    Note
     Pass the thread underneath the presser 
    foot. 
     Slide the outside frame of the buttonhole  foot backward as far as possible as shown in 
    the illustration, making sure that there is no 
    gap behind the part of the foot marked “A”. If 
    the buttonhole foot is not slid back as far as 
    possible, the buttonhole will not be sewn at 
    the correct size.
    Memo
     If automatic thread cutting is turned on before you start sewing, both threads are 
    automatically cut after the reinforcement 
    stitches are sewn. If the fabric does not feed 
    (for example, because it is too thick), 
    increase the stitch length setting.
     CAUTION
     When using the seam ripper to open the 
    buttonhole, do not put your hand or finger in 
    the path of the ripper. The ripper may slip and 
    cause injury. Do not use the seam ripper in 
    any other way than how it is intended.
    Memo
     For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of 
    the buttonhole. Then insert a pin along the 
    inside of one of the bar tacks, insert a seam 
    ripper into the hole made with the eyelet 
    punch, and cut towards the pin. 
    a Eyelet punch 
    b Basting pin 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    Utility Stitches
    135
    3
    ■Sewing Stretch Fabrics 
    When sewing on stretch fabric with   or  , 
    sew the buttonhole stitches over a gimp thread. 
    aHook the gimp thread onto the back of 
    presser foot “A”. Insert the ends into the 
    grooves at the front of the presser foot, and 
    then temporarily tie them there.
    a Upper thread 
    bLower the presser foot and start sewing.
    cOnce sewing is completed, gently pull the 
    gimp thread to remove any slack, and trim 
    off any excess.
    ■Odd Shaped Buttons/Buttons that do 
    Not Fit into the Button Holder Plate 
    Use the markings on the presser foot scale to set the 
    size of the buttonhole. One mark on the presser foot 
    scale equals 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch). 
    Add the button diameter and thickness together, and 
    then set the plate at the calculated value.
    a Presser foot scale 
    b Button holder plate 
    c Completed measurement of diameter + thickness 
    d 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)
    Memo
     Set the width of the satin stitches to the 
    width of the gimp thread, and set the button-
    hole width to be 2-3 times the width of the 
    gimp thread.
    Memo
     After using the seam ripper to cut open the 
    threads over the buttonhole, trim off the 
    threads.
    Memo
     For example, for a button with a diameter of 15 mm (approx. 9/16 inch) and a thickness 
    of 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch), the scale 
    should be set at 25 mm (approx. 1 inch).
    a 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch) 
    b 15 mm (approx. 9/16 inch)  
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    136
    Four-step Buttonholes
    You can sew 4-step buttonholes using the following 4 stitches together. You can sew any desired length 
    for the buttonhole when using 4-step buttonholes. 4-step buttonholes are a good option when attaching 
    oversize buttons.
    Four-step buttonholes are sewn as shown below.
    aMark the position and length of the 
    buttonhole on the fabric.
    a Marks on fabric
    b Finished stitching
    Note
     When changing the stitch settings, make sure that all stitch settings are changed to match.
    StitchStitch namePresser 
    footApplications
    Stitch width 
    [mm (inch)]Stitch length  [mm (inch)]Tw in  
    needle
    AutoManualAutoManual
    4 steps buttonhole 1 Left side of 4 steps buttonhole
    5.0
    (7/32) 1.5 - 7.0
    (1/16 - 1/4) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    4 steps buttonhole 2 Bar tack of 4 steps buttonhole
    5.0
    (7/32) 1.5 - 7.0
    (1/16 - 1/4) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    4 steps buttonhole 3 Right side of 4 steps buttonhole
    5.0
    (7/32) 1.5 - 7.0
    (1/16 - 1/4) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    4 steps buttonhole 4 Bar tack of 4 steps buttonhole
    5.0
    (7/32) 1.5 - 7.0
    (1/16 - 1/4) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    Utility Stitches
    137
    3
    bAttach monogramming foot “N”, and select 
    stitch   to sew the left side of the 
    buttonhole.
    cPress the “Start/Stop” button to start 
    sewing.
    dSew the desired length for the buttonhole 
    and press the “Start/Stop” button again.
    eSelect stitch   to sew the bar tack and 
    press the “Start/Stop” button.
    →The machine will automatically stop after sewing 
    the bar tack.
    fSelect stitch   to sew the right side of 
    the buttonhole, and press the “Start/Stop” 
    button to begin sewing.
    gSew the right side of the buttonhole and 
    press the “Start/Stop” button again.
    * Sew the right side of the buttonhole the same length 
    as the left.
    hSelect stitch   to sew the bar tack and 
    then press the “Start/Stop” button.
    →The machine will automatically sew off the bar tack 
    tie and stop when the bar tack is complete.
    iRaise the presser foot and remove the 
    fabric.
    jRefer to page 134 to open the buttonhole. 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    138
    ■Darning 
    Use darning stitches for mending and other applications.
    Darning is performed by sewing from the front of the presser foot to the back as shown below.
    a Reinforcement stitches 
    aSelect a stitch, and attach buttonhole foot 
    “A”.
    bSet the scale to the desired length of the 
    darning.
    aPresser foot scale 
    b Completed length measurement 
    c Width 7 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) 
    d 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)
    StitchStitch namePresser 
    footApplications
    Stitch width [mm (inch)]Stitch length  [mm (inch)]Tw in  
    needle
    AutoManualAutoManual
    Darning Darning medium weight fabric
    7.0
    (1/4) 2.5 - 7.0
    (3/32 - 1/4) 2.0
    (1/16) 0.4 - 2.5
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Darning Darning heavyweight fabric
    7.0
    (1/4) 2.5 - 7.0
    (3/32 - 1/4) 2.0
    (1/16) 0.4 - 2.5
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Memo
     The maximum length for darning is 28 mm 
    (approx. 1-1/16 inches).  
    						
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