Brother Quattro 3 User Manual
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SEWING THE STITCHES Utility Stitches 129 3 cAttach presser foot “J”. Align the center of the presser foot with the middle of the space between the fabrics and begin sewing. aBasting stitches dWhen sewing is finished, gently tear the paper away. Tape or Elastic Attaching aSelect a straight stitch and attach presser foot “J”. bSet the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch), and loosen the upper thread tension to 2.0 (see “Setting the Stitch Length” on page 79 and “Setting the Thread Tension” on page 79). cSew two rows of straight stitches on the right side of the fabric, then pull the bobbin thread to create the necessary gather. dPlace the tape over the gather, and hold it in place with basting pins. aTape eSelect or . fSew over the tape (or elastic). Memo Use a thick thread. Memo Be sure that neither automatic reinforcement nor automatic thread cutting is selected. Memo Before sewing the straight stitch, rotate the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and pull up the bobbin thread. Holding the top and bobbin thread, pull a length of thread out from the rear of the machine. (Be sure that the presser foot is raised.) Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual. CAUTION Be sure the needle does not strike a basting pin, or any other objects, during sewing. The thread could tangle or the needle could break, causing injury.
SEWING THE STITCHES 130 gPull out the straight stitch threads. Heirloom ■Hemstitching (1) (Daisy Stitch) Use for sewing tablecloths, decorative hems, and decorative stitching on shirt fronts. aInsert a type 130/705H, size 100/16 Wing needle. * This specialty sewing needle is not furnished with your machine. Must be purchased separately. bSelect a stitch and attach presser foot “N”. * Select any stitch between 3-01 and 3-25. cStart sewing. Example: Illustration of finished product ■Hemstitching (2) (Drawn Work (1)) aPull out several threads from one area on a piece of fabric to open the area. * Pull out 5 or 6 threads to leave a 3 mm (approx. 1/8 inch) area open. Memo Use a light to medium weight homespun fab-ric with a little stiffness. CAUTION The “Automatic Threading” button cannot be used. Thread the wing needle by hand, from front to back. Using the “Automatic Threading” button may result in damage to the machine. A more attractive finish can be obtained if you use a “130/705H Wing” needle when sewing these patterns. If using a wing needle and the stitch width has been set manually, check that the needle will not touch the presser foot by carefully rotating the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) before starting to sew. Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual. Memo Loosely woven fabrics work best for this.
SEWING THE STITCHES Utility Stitches 131 3 bSelect . cAttach presser foot “N”. With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew one edge of the open area. dPress to create a mirror image of the stitch. eMatch beginning needle drop points on the opposite edge of the open area to keep the stitching symmetrical. ■Hemstitching (3) (Drawn Work (2)) aPull out several threads from both sides of the 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) area which are not yet open. * Pull out four threads, leave five threads, and then pull out four threads. The width of five threads is approximately 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) or less. a Approx. 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) or less b Four threads (pull out) c Five threads (leave) bSelect . cSew the decorative stitch in the center of the five threads created above. Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual. Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual. Memo A wing needle can be used for Hemstitching (3).
SEWING THE STITCHES 132 One-step Buttonholes With one-step buttonholes, you can make buttonholes appropriate to the size of your button. StitchStitch namePresser footApplications Stitch width [mm (inch)]Stitch length [mm (inch)]Tw in needle AutoManualAutoManual Narrow rounded buttonhole Buttonhole on light to medium weight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Wide round ended buttonhole Buttonholes with extra space for larger buttons 5.5 (7/32) 3.5 - 5.5 (1/8 - 7/32) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Tapered round ended buttonhole Reinforced waist tapered buttonholes 5.0 (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Round ended buttonhole Buttonholes with vertical bar tack in heavyweight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Round ended buttonhole Buttonholes with bar tack 5.0 (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Round double ended buttonhole Buttonholes for fine, medium to heavyweight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Narrow squared buttonhole Buttonholes for light to medium weight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Wide squared buttonhole Buttonholes with extra space for larger decorative buttons 5.5 (7/32) 3.5 - 5.5 (1/8 - 7/32) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/ 64 - 1/16) NO Squared buttonhole Heavy-duty buttonholes with vertical bar tacks5.0 (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Stretch buttonhole Buttonholes for stretch or woven fabrics6.0 (15/ 64) 3.0 - 6.0 (1/8 - 15/64) 1.0 (1/16) 0.5 - 2.0 (1/32 - 1/16) NO Heirloom buttonhole Buttonholes for heirloom and stretch fabrics6.0 (15/ 64) 3.0 - 6.0 (1/8 - 15/64) 1.5 (1/16) 1.0 - 3.0 (1/1 - 1/8) NO Bound buttonhole The first step in making bound buttonholes5.0 (3/16) 0.0 - 6.0 (0 - 15/64) 2.0 (1/16) 0.2 - 4.0 (1/64 - 3/16) NO Keyhole buttonhole Buttonholes in heavyweight or thick fabrics for larger flat buttons7.0 (1/4) 3.0 - 7.0 (1/8 - 1/4) 0.5 (1/32) 0.3 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Tapered keyhole buttonhole Buttonholes in medium to heavy weight fabrics for larger flat buttons7.0 (1/4) 3.0 - 7.0 (1/8 - 1/4) 0.5 (1/32) 0.3 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Keyhole buttonhole Buttonholes with vertical bar tack for reinforcement in heavyweight or thick fabrics7.0 (1/4) 3.0 - 7.0 (1/8 - 1/4) 0.5 (1/32) 0.3 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO
SEWING THE STITCHES Utility Stitches 133 3 One-step buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below. aReinforcement stitching aSelect a buttonhole stitch, and attach buttonhole foot “A”. bMark the position and length of the buttonhole on the fabric. cPull out the button holder plate on the presser foot, and insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole. Then tighten the button holder plate around the button. aButton holder plate dAlign the presser foot with the mark on the fabric, and lower the presser foot. aMark on the fabric b Marks on the presser foot Memo The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (approx. 1-1/16 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).Memo The size of the buttonhole is determined by the size of the button in the button holder plate. A
SEWING THE STITCHES 134 eLower the buttonhole lever so that it is positioned behind the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot. aButtonhole lever a Metal bracket fGently hold the end of the upper thread, and then start sewing. * Feed the fabric carefully by hand while the buttonhole is sewn. → Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, and then stops. gInsert a pin along the inside of one of the bar tacks, and then insert the seam ripper into the center of the buttonhole and cut towards the pin. aBasting pin b Seam ripper Note Pass the thread underneath the presser foot. Slide the outside frame of the buttonhole foot backward as far as possible as shown in the illustration, making sure that there is no gap behind the part of the foot marked “A”. If the buttonhole foot is not slid back as far as possible, the buttonhole will not be sewn at the correct size. Memo If automatic thread cutting is turned on before you start sewing, both threads are automatically cut after the reinforcement stitches are sewn. If the fabric does not feed (for example, because it is too thick), increase the stitch length setting. CAUTION When using the seam ripper to open the buttonhole, do not put your hand or finger in the path of the ripper. The ripper may slip and cause injury. Do not use the seam ripper in any other way than how it is intended. Memo For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole. Then insert a pin along the inside of one of the bar tacks, insert a seam ripper into the hole made with the eyelet punch, and cut towards the pin. a Eyelet punch b Basting pin
SEWING THE STITCHES Utility Stitches 135 3 ■Sewing Stretch Fabrics When sewing on stretch fabric with or , sew the buttonhole stitches over a gimp thread. aHook the gimp thread onto the back of presser foot “A”. Insert the ends into the grooves at the front of the presser foot, and then temporarily tie them there. a Upper thread bLower the presser foot and start sewing. cOnce sewing is completed, gently pull the gimp thread to remove any slack, and trim off any excess. ■Odd Shaped Buttons/Buttons that do Not Fit into the Button Holder Plate Use the markings on the presser foot scale to set the size of the buttonhole. One mark on the presser foot scale equals 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch). Add the button diameter and thickness together, and then set the plate at the calculated value. a Presser foot scale b Button holder plate c Completed measurement of diameter + thickness d 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) Memo Set the width of the satin stitches to the width of the gimp thread, and set the button- hole width to be 2-3 times the width of the gimp thread. Memo After using the seam ripper to cut open the threads over the buttonhole, trim off the threads. Memo For example, for a button with a diameter of 15 mm (approx. 9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch), the scale should be set at 25 mm (approx. 1 inch). a 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch) b 15 mm (approx. 9/16 inch)
SEWING THE STITCHES 136 Four-step Buttonholes You can sew 4-step buttonholes using the following 4 stitches together. You can sew any desired length for the buttonhole when using 4-step buttonholes. 4-step buttonholes are a good option when attaching oversize buttons. Four-step buttonholes are sewn as shown below. aMark the position and length of the buttonhole on the fabric. a Marks on fabric b Finished stitching Note When changing the stitch settings, make sure that all stitch settings are changed to match. StitchStitch namePresser footApplications Stitch width [mm (inch)]Stitch length [mm (inch)]Tw in needle AutoManualAutoManual 4 steps buttonhole 1 Left side of 4 steps buttonhole 5.0 (7/32) 1.5 - 7.0 (1/16 - 1/4) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO 4 steps buttonhole 2 Bar tack of 4 steps buttonhole 5.0 (7/32) 1.5 - 7.0 (1/16 - 1/4) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO 4 steps buttonhole 3 Right side of 4 steps buttonhole 5.0 (7/32) 1.5 - 7.0 (1/16 - 1/4) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO 4 steps buttonhole 4 Bar tack of 4 steps buttonhole 5.0 (7/32) 1.5 - 7.0 (1/16 - 1/4) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO
SEWING THE STITCHES Utility Stitches 137 3 bAttach monogramming foot “N”, and select stitch to sew the left side of the buttonhole. cPress the “Start/Stop” button to start sewing. dSew the desired length for the buttonhole and press the “Start/Stop” button again. eSelect stitch to sew the bar tack and press the “Start/Stop” button. →The machine will automatically stop after sewing the bar tack. fSelect stitch to sew the right side of the buttonhole, and press the “Start/Stop” button to begin sewing. gSew the right side of the buttonhole and press the “Start/Stop” button again. * Sew the right side of the buttonhole the same length as the left. hSelect stitch to sew the bar tack and then press the “Start/Stop” button. →The machine will automatically sew off the bar tack tie and stop when the bar tack is complete. iRaise the presser foot and remove the fabric. jRefer to page 134 to open the buttonhole.
SEWING THE STITCHES 138 ■Darning Use darning stitches for mending and other applications. Darning is performed by sewing from the front of the presser foot to the back as shown below. a Reinforcement stitches aSelect a stitch, and attach buttonhole foot “A”. bSet the scale to the desired length of the darning. aPresser foot scale b Completed length measurement c Width 7 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) d 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) StitchStitch namePresser footApplications Stitch width [mm (inch)]Stitch length [mm (inch)]Tw in needle AutoManualAutoManual Darning Darning medium weight fabric 7.0 (1/4) 2.5 - 7.0 (3/32 - 1/4) 2.0 (1/16) 0.4 - 2.5 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Darning Darning heavyweight fabric 7.0 (1/4) 2.5 - 7.0 (3/32 - 1/4) 2.0 (1/16) 0.4 - 2.5 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Memo The maximum length for darning is 28 mm (approx. 1-1/16 inches).