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Brother Quattro 3 User Manual

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    							Chapter 3
    Utility Stitches
    SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES ...................... 90
    ■Stitch Selection Screens............................................................ 90Selecting a Stitch .............................................................. 91
    ■Using the Mirror Image Key ..................................................... 91
    ■ Using the Image Key................................................................. 92
    Saving Your Stitch Settings ............................................... 92
    ■Saving Settings.......................................................................... 92
    ■ Retrieving Saved Settings.......................................................... 93
    SEWING THE STITCHES ................................. 94
    Straight Stitches ................................................................ 94
    ■Changing the Needle Position 
    (Left or Middle Needle Position Stitches Only) ........................ 96
    ■ Aligning the Fabric with a Mark on the Needle Plate 
    or Bobbin Cover (with Mark) ................................................... 96
    ■
    Aligning the Fabric with the Vertical Stitch Alignment “V” Foot........ 97
    ■Using the Straight Stitch Needle Plate and the Straight Stitch Foot.... 97
    ■ Basting ..................................................................................... 98
    Dart Seam ......................................................................... 99
    Gathering.......................................................................... 99
    Flat Fell Seam.................................................................. 100
    Pintuck............................................................................ 101
    Zigzag Stitches ................................................................ 102
    ■Overcasting (Using a Zigzag Stitch) ....................................... 102
    ■ Appliqué (Using a Zigzag Stitch) ............................................ 102
    ■ Patchwork (for Crazy Quilt) ................................................... 103
    ■ Sewing Curves (Using a Zigzag Stitch) ................................... 103
    ■ Cord Guide Bobbin Cover (Using a Zigzag Stitch) ................. 103
    Elastic Zigzag Stitches ..................................................... 104
    ■Tape Attaching ....................................................................... 104
    ■ Overcasting ............................................................................ 104
    Overcasting .................................................................... 105
    ■Overcasting Using Presser Foot “G” ...................................... 105
    ■ Overcasting Using Presser Foot “J” ........................................ 106
    ■ Overcasting Using the Side Cutter ......................................... 107
    ■ When Sewing Straight Stitches While Using the Side Cutter .. 109
    Quilting .......................................................................... 110
    ■Piecing ................................................................................... 113
    ■ Quilting .................................................................................. 113
    ■ Appliqué................................................................................. 114
    ■ Quilting with Satin Stitches .................................................... 115
    ■ Free Motion Quilting .............................................................. 116
    ■ Echo Quilting Using the Free Motion Echo 
    Quilting Foot “E”.................................................................... 119
    Blind Hem Stitches ......................................................... 122
    ■If the Needle Catches Too Much of the Hem Fold ................. 124
    ■ If the Needle does not Catch the Hem Fold ........................... 124
    Appliqué ......................................................................... 125
    ■Appliqué Sharp Curves ........................................................... 125
    ■ Appliqué Corners ................................................................... 125
    Shelltuck Stitches ............................................................ 126
    Scallop Stitches ............................................................... 127
    Crazy Quilting ................................................................ 127
    Smocking Stitches ........................................................... 128
    Fagoting .......................................................................... 128
    Tape or Elastic Attaching ................................................ 129 Heirloom .........................................................................130
    ■
    Hemstitching (1) (Daisy Stitch) ...............................................130
    ■ Hemstitching (2) (Drawn Work (1)) ........................................130
    ■ Hemstitching (3) (Drawn Work (2)) ........................................131
    One-step Buttonholes ...................................................... 132
    ■Sewing Stretch Fabrics ............................................................135
    ■ Odd Shaped Buttons/Buttons that do Not Fit into the Button 
    Holder Plate ............................................................................135
    Four-step Buttonholes...................................................... 136
    ■Darning ...................................................................................138Bar Tacks .........................................................................140
    ■Bar Tacks on Thick Fabrics......................................................141Button Sewing .................................................................142
    ■Attaching 4 Hole Buttons ........................................................143
    ■ Attaching a Shank to the Button .............................................143
    Eyelet ...............................................................................144
    Multi-directional Sewing (Straight Stitch and Zigzag Stitch).....145
    Zipper Insertion ...............................................................146
    ■ Centered Zipper......................................................................146
    ■ Inserting a Side Zipper ............................................................147
    Edge Sewing.....................................................................148 
    						
    							SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES
    90
    SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES
    ■Stitch Selection Screens
    There are 6 categories of Utility Stitches. If a page number such as   appears, there is more than one stitch 
    selection screen for that category.
    Straight/Overcasting Decorative Stitches Heirloom Stitches
    Buttonholes/Bar tacks Multi-directional Sewing Quilting Stitches 
    						
    							SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES
    Utility Stitches
    91
    3
    Selecting a Stitch
    aTurn the main power to ON and press  to display the utility stitches.
    →Either “1-01 Straight stitch (Left)” or “1-03 Straight 
    stitch (Middle)” is selected, depending on the setting 
    selected in the setting screen.
    bUse   to select 
    the category you want.
    * Press   to view the next page.
    * Press   to view previous page.
    a Preview of the selected stitch
    b Stitch selection screen
    c Percentage size of view
    cPress the key of the stitch you want to sew.
    ■Using the Mirror Image Key 
    Depending on the type of utility stitch you select, 
    you may be able to sew a horizontal mirror image of 
    the stitch.
    If   is lit when you select a stitch, it will be 
    possible to make a mirror image of the stitch.
    Press   to create a horizontal mirror image of the 
    selected stitch.
    The key will display as  .
    Memo
     For details on each stitch, refer to the 
    “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of 
    this manual.
    a
    b
    c
    Note
     If   is light gray after you select a stitch, 
    you cannot create a horizontal mirror image 
    of the selected stitch due to the type of stitch 
    or type of presser foot recommended (this is 
    true of buttonholes, multi-directional sew-
    ing, and others).  
    						
    							SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES
    92
    ■Using the Image Key
    You can display an image of the selected stitch. You 
    can check and change the colors of the image of the 
    screen.
    aPress .
    → An image of the selected stitch is displayed.
    bPress   to change the thread color of 
    the stitch on the screen.
    * Press   to display an enlarged image of the 
    stitch.
    a Stitch screen
    cPress   to go back to the original 
    screen.
    Saving Your Stitch Settings 
    The settings for the zigzag stitch width, stitch 
    length, thread tension, automatic thread cutting, 
    automatic reinforcement stitching, etc., are preset 
    in the machine for each stitch. However, if you 
    have specific settings that you wish to reuse later 
    for a stitch, you can change the settings so that 
    they can be saved for that stitch. Five sets of 
    settings can be saved for a single stitch.
    ■Saving Settings
    aSelect a stitch. (Example:  )
    bSpecify your preferred settings.
    Memo
     The color changes every time you press 
    .
    Note
     If stitches are wider or larger than display, press darkened arrows to move the stitch 
    pattern for better visibility.
    a 
    						
    							SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES
    Utility Stitches
    93
    3
    cPress .
    →The settings are saved and the original screen 
    automatically appears.
    ■Retrieving Saved Settings
    aSelect a stitch.
    bPress .
    cPress the numbered key of the settings to be 
    retrieved.
    * Press   to return to the original screen without 
    retrieving settings.
    a Numbered keys
    dPress .
    →The selected settings are retrieved, and the original 
    screen automatically appears.
    Memo
     If you try to save settings when there are 
    already 5 sets of settings saved for a stitch, 
    the message “The pockets are full. Delete a 
    pattern” will appear. Close the message and 
    delete a setting referring to page 93.
    Memo
     When a stitch is selected, the last settings retrieved are displayed. The last settings 
    retrieved are retained even if the machine 
    was turned off or a different stitch was 
    selected.
    Memo
     To save new settings when there are already 5 sets of settings saved for a stitch, 
    press  . Press the numbered key of 
    the setting to be deleted. Press  , 
    press   and then  . The new set-
    ting will be saved in place of the recently 
    deleted setting.
     You can delete all the saved settings by 
    pressing .
    a 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    94
    SEWING THE STITCHES
    Straight Stitches
    StitchStitch namePresser footApplications
    Stitch width [mm (inch)]Stitch length  [mm (inch)]Tw in  
    needle
    AutoManualAutoManual
    Straight stitch (Left) General sewing, gather, pintuck, 
    etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while 
    pressing “Reverse/
    Reinforcement Stitch” button.0.0
    (0) 0.0 - 7.0
    (0 - 1/4) 2.5
    (3/32) 0.2 - 5.0
    (1/64 - 3/16) OK
    ( J )
    Straight stitch (Left) General sewing, gather, pintuck, 
    etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn 
    while pressing “Reverse/
    Reinforcement Stitch” button.0.0
    (0) 0.0 - 7.0
    (0 - 1/4) 2.5
    (3/32) 0.2 - 5.0
    (1/64 - 3/16) OK
    ( J )
    Straight stitch 
    (Middle) General sewing, gather, pintuck, 
    etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while 
    pressing “Reverse/
    Reinforcement Stitch” button.3.5
    (1/8) 0.0 - 7.0
    (0 - 1/4) 2.5
    (3/32) 0.2 - 5.0
    (1/64 - 3/16) OK
    ( J )
    Straight stitch 
    (Middle) General sewing, gather, pintuck, 
    etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn 
    while pressing “Reverse/
    Reinforcement Stitch” button.3.5
    (1/8) 0.0 - 7.0
    (0 - 1/4) 2.5
    (3/32) 0.2 - 5.0
    (1/64 - 3/16) OK
    ( J )
    Triple stretch stitch General sewing for 
    reinforcement and decorative 
    topstitching0.0
    (0) 0.0 - 7.0
    (0 - 1/4) 2.5
    (3/32) 1.5 - 4.0
    (1/16 - 3/16) OK
    ( J )
    Stem stitch Reinforced stitching, sewing and 
    decorative applications1.0
    (1/16) 1.0 - 3.0
    (1/16 - 1/8) 2.5
    (3/32) 1.0 - 4.0
    (1/16 - 3/16) OK
    ( J )
    Decorative stitch Decorative stitching, top 
    stitching0.0
    (0) 0.0 - 7.0
    (0 - 1/4) 2.5
    (3/32) 1.0 - 4.0
    (1/16 - 3/16) OK
    ( J )
    Basting stitch Basting
    0.0
    (0) 0.
    
    0 - 7.0
    (0 - 1/4) 20
    (3/4) 5 - 30
    (3/16 - 1-3/16) NO
    a
    Left needle position
    b Middle needle position  a
    Reverse stitch 
    b Reinforcement stitch
    Memo
     If the selected stitch has a double mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reverse stitches 
    holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button. 
     If the selected stitch has a dot mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reinforcement  stitches holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button (see page 74). 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    Utility Stitches
    95
    3
    aSelect a stitch. 
    bAttach presser foot “J”. 
    * Attach presser foot “N” when you select  .
    cHold the thread tail and fabric with your 
    left hand, and rotate the handwheel with 
    your right hand to insert the needle into the 
    fabric. 
    aSewing start position
    dLower the presser foot, and hold the 
    “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to 
    sew 3-4 stitches. 
    →The machine sews reverse stitches (or reinforcement 
    stitches).
    ePress the “Start/Stop” button to sew 
    forward. 
    aReverse stitches 
    → The machine will begin sewing slowly.
    fWhen sewing is completed, hold the 
    “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to 
    sew 3-4 reverse stitches (or reinforcement 
    stitches) at the end of the seam.
    gAfter sewing, press the “Thread Cutter” 
    button to trim the threads. 
     CAUTION
     Be sure the needle does not strike a basting 
    pin, or any other objects, during sewing. The 
    thread could tangle or the needle could break, 
    causing injury. 
    Memo
     When the automatic thread cutting and auto-matic reinforcement stitch keys on the 
    screen are selected, reverse stitches (or 
    reinforcement stitches) will be sewn auto-
    matically at the beginning of sewing when 
    the “Start/Stop” button is pressed. Press the 
    “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to 
    sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement 
    stitches) and trim the thread automatically at 
    the end of sewing. 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    96
    ■Changing the Needle Position (Left 
    or Middle Needle Position Stitches 
    Only) 
    When you select left or middle needle position 
    stitches, you can use   and   in the stitch 
    width display to change the position of the needle. 
    Match the distance from the right edge of the presser 
    foot to the needle with the stitch width, then align 
    the edge of the presser foot with the edge of the 
    fabric during sewing for an attractive finish.
    a Stitch width 
    Example: Left/Middle needle position stitches
    ■Aligning the Fabric  with a Mark on 
    the Needle Plate or Bobbin Cover 
    (with Mark)
    While sewing, align the edge of the fabric with the 
    16 mm (approx. 5/8 inch) mark on the needle plate 
    or bobbin cover (with mark) depending on the 
    needle position (left or middle (center) needle 
    position stitches only).
    For stitches with a left needle position
    (Stitch width: 0.0 mm)
    a Seam
    b Presser foot
    c Centimeters
    d Inches
    e Needle plate
    f 16 mm (5/8 inch)
    For stitches with a middle (center) needle position
    (Stitch width: 3.5 mm)
    aSeam
    b Presser foot
    c Inches
    d Bobbin cover (with mark)
    e 16 mm (5/8 inch)
    12.0 mm
     (approx.  1/2 inch) 8.5 mm
    (approx.  11/32 
    inch) 6.5 mm
     (approx.  1/4 inch) 5.0 mm
    (approx. 
    3/16 inch) 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    Utility Stitches
    97
    3
    ■Aligning the Fabric with the Vertical 
    Stitch Alignment “V” Foot
    Sew while keeping the right edge of the fabric 
    aligned with a desired position of markings on the 
    vertical stitch alignment “V” foot.
    You can also use the vertical stitch alignment “V” 
    foot for setting a stitch width using the built-in 
    camera (see page 148).
    a Seam
    b Vertical stitch alignment “V” foot
    c Markings
    ■Using the Straight Stitch Needle 
    Plate and the Straight Stitch Foot
    The straight stitch needle plate and the straight stitch 
    foot can only be used for straight stitches (middle 
    needle position stitches). Use the straight stitch 
    needle plate and the straight stitch foot when sewing 
    thin fabrics or when sewing small pieces which tend 
    to sink into the hole of the regular needle plate 
    during sewing. The straight stitch foot is perfect to 
    reduce puckering on lightweight fabrics. The small 
    opening on the foot provides support for the fabric 
    as the needle travels through the fabric.
    aPress the “Needle Position” button to raise 
    the needle and turn the main power to OFF 
    or press  .
    bRemove the needle and the presser foot 
    holder (see page 66 through 67).
    cRemove the flat bed attachment or the 
    embroidery unit if either are attached.
    dGrasp both sides of the needle plate cover, 
    and then slide it toward you.
    a Needle plate cover
    eGrasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.
    aBobbin case
    fUse the disc-shaped screw driver included 
    with the machine to unscrew and remove 
    the regular needle plate.
    gSet the straight stitch needle plate in place 
    and use the disc-shaped screw driver to 
    tighten the plate.
    aRound hole
     CAUTION
     Always use the straight stitch foot in 
    combination with the straight stitch needle 
    plate.
    Note
     Align the two screw holes on the needle plate with the two holes on the machine. Use 
    the disc-shaped screw driver included with 
    the machine to secure the screws in the 
    needle plate. 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    98
    hInsert the bobbin case in its original 
    position, and then attach the needle plate 
    cover.
    iAfter reinstalling the needle plate cover, 
    select any of the straight stitches.
    jInsert needle and attach the straight stitch 
    foot.
    aNotch
    b Pin
    kStart sewing.
    * After sewing, make sure to remove the straight stitch 
    needle plate and the straight stitch foot, and reinstall 
    the regular needle plate, the needle plate cover and 
    the presser foot “J”.
    ■Basting
    aSelect   and attach presser foot “J”.
    bPress the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” 
    button to sew reinforcement stitches, then 
    continue sewing.
    cSew while keeping the fabric straight. 
    dEnd the basting with reinforcement stitches.
    Memo
     When using the straight stitch needle plate, 
    all straight stitches become middle needle 
    position stitches. You cannot change the 
    needle position using the width display.
     Always secure the needle plate before  inserting the bobbin case into its original 
    position.
     CAUTION
     Selecting other stitches will cause an error 
    message to be displayed.
     Slowly rotate the handwheel toward you  (counterclockwise) before sewing and make 
    sure that the needle is not contacting the 
    straight stitch foot and straight stitch needle 
    plate.
    Memo
     To prevent puckering on fine fabrics, use a fine needle, size 75/11, and a short stitch 
    length. For heavier fabrics, use a heavier 
    needle, size 90/14, and longer stitches.
    Memo
     When you use the basting stitch for gathering, do not use a reinforcement stitch 
    at the beginning; you should lift the presser 
    foot, rotate the handwheel toward you 
    (counterclockwise), pull up the bobbin 
    thread and pull a length of top and bobbin 
    thread out from the rear of the machine.
     You can set the stitch length between 5 mm  (approx. 3/16 inch) and 30 mm (approx. 
    1-3/16 inches) 
    a Between 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and 30 mm 
    (approx. 1-3/16 inches)  
    						
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