Husqvarna 235 Xtorq Manual
Have a look at the manual Husqvarna 235 Xtorq Manual online for free. It’s possible to download the document as PDF or print. UserManuals.tech offer 35 Husqvarna manuals and user’s guides for free. Share the user manual or guide on Facebook, Twitter or Google+.
GENERAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS English – 11 1151508-26 Rev. 1 2009-07-08 General rules • Only use cutting equipment recommended by us! See instructions under the heading Technical data. • Keep the chain’s cutting teeth properly sharpened! Follow our instructions and use the recommended file gauge. A damaged or badly sharpened chain increases the risk of accidents. • Maintain the correct depth gauge setting! Follow our instructions and use the recommended depth gauge clearance. Too large a clearance increases the risk of kickback. • Keep the chain properly tensioned! If the chain is slack it is more likely to jump off and lead to increased wear on the bar, chain and drive sprocket. • Keep cutting equipment well lubricated and properly maintained! A poorly lubricated chain is more likely to break and lead to increased wear on the bar, chain and drive sprocket. Cutting equipment designed to reduce kickback The only way to avoid kickback is to make sure that the kickback zone of the bar never touches anything. By using cutting equipment with ”built-in” kickback reduction and keeping the chain sharp and well- maintained you can reduce the effects of kickback. Bar The smaller the tip radius the lower the chance of kickback. Chain A chain is made up of a number of links, which are available in standard and low-kickback versions. Some terms that describe the bar and chain To maintain the safety features of the cutting equipment, you should replace a worn or damaged bar or chain with a bar and chain combinations recommended by Husqvarna. See instructions under the heading Technical Data for a list of replacement bar and chain combinations we recommend. Bar • Length (inches/cm) • Number of teeth on bar tip sprocket (T). • Chain pitch (inches). The spacing between the drive links of the chain must match the spacing of the teeth on the bar tip sprocket and drive sprocket. • Number of drive links. The number of drive links is determined by the length of the bar, the chain pitch and the number of teeth on the bar tip sprocket. • Bar groove width (inches/mm). The groove in the bar must match the width of the chain drive links. • Chain oil hole and hole for chain tensioner. The bar must be matched to the chain saw design. Chain • Chain pitch (inches) • Drive link width (mm/inches) • Number of drive links. Sharpening your chain and adjusting depth gauge setting General information on sharpening cutting teeth • Never use a blunt chain. When the chain is blunt you have to exert more pressure to force the bar through the wood and the chips will be very small. If the chain is very blunt it will produce wood powder and no chips or shavings. • A sharp chain eats its way through the wood and produces long, thick chips or shavings. • The cutting part of the chain is called the cutter and consists of a cutting tooth (A) and the depth gauge (B). The cutters cutting depth is determined by the difference in height between the two (depth gauge setting). (7) When you sharpen a cutting tooth there are four important factors to remember. 1 Filing angle 2 Cutting angle 3 File position 4 Round file diameter It is very difficult to sharpen a chain correctly without the right equipment. We recommend that you use our file gauge. This will help you obtain the maximum kickback reduction and cutting performance from your chain. See instructions under the heading Technical data for information about sharpening your chain. Sharpening cutting teeth To sharpen cutting teeth you will need a round file and a file gauge. See instructions under the heading Technical data for information on the size of file and gauge that are recommended for the chain fitted to your chain saw. • Check that the chain is correctly tensioned. A slack chain will move sideways, making it more difficult to sharpen correctly. • Always file cutting teeth from the inside face. Reduce the pressure on the return stroke. File all the teeth on one side first, then turn the chain saw and file the teeth on the other side. File all the teeth to the same length. When the length of the cutting teeth is reduced to 0.16 inch (4 mm) the chain is worn out and should be replaced. (8) General advice on adjusting depth gauge setting (7) • When you sharpen the cutting tooth (A) the depth gauge setting (C) will decrease. To maintain optimal cutting ! WARNING! Faulty cutting equipment or the wrong combination of bar and saw chain increases the risk of kickback! Only use the bar/saw chain combin- ations we recommend, and follow the filing instructions. See instructions under the heading Technical data. IMPORTANT! No saw chain design eliminates the danger of kickback. ! WARNING! Any contact with a rotating saw chain can cause extremely serious injuries. ! WARNING! Always wear gloves, when working with the chain, in order to protect your hands from injury. ! WARNING! Departure from the sharpening instructions considerably increases the risk of kickback.
GENERAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS 12 – English1151508-26 Rev. 1 2009-07-08 performance the depth gauge (B) has to be filed down to achieve the recommended depth gauge setting. See instructions under the heading Technical data to find the correct depth gauge setting for your particular chain. Adjustment of depth gauge setting • The cutting teeth should be newly sharpened before adjusting the depth gauge setting. We recommend that you adjust the depth gauge setting every third time you sharpen the cutting teeth. NOTE! This recommendation assumes that the length of the cutting teeth is not reduced excessively. • You will need a flat file and a depth gauge tool. We recommend that you use our depth gauge tool to acheive the correct depth gauge setting and bevel for the depth gauge. • Place the depth gauge tool over the chain. Detailed information regarding the use of the depth gauge tool, will be found on the package for the depth gauge tool. Use the flat file to file off the tip of the depth gauge that protrudes through the depth gauge tool. The depth gauge setting is correct when you no longer feel resistance as you draw the file along the depth gauge tool. Tensioning the chain The more you use a chain the longer it becomes. It is therefore important to adjust the chain regularly to take up the slack. Check the chain tension every time you refuel. NOTE! A new chain has a running-in period during which you should check the tension more frequently. Tension the chain as tightly as possible, but not so tight that you cannot pull it round freely by hand. (9) • Release the knob by folding it out. (10) • Turn the knob anti clockwise to loosen the bar cover. (11) • Adjust the tension on the chain by turning the wheel down (+) for tighter tension and up (-) to loosen the tension. Lift tip of guide bar while adjusting tension. (12) • Tighten the clutch cover by turning the knob clockwise while lifting tip of bar. (13) • Fold the knob back in to lock the tensioning. (14) Lubricating cutting equipment Chain oil Chain oil must demonstrate good adhesion to the chain and also maintain its flow characteristics regardless of whether it is warm summer or cold winter weather. As a chain saw manufacturer we have developed an optimal chain oil which has a vegetable oil base. We recommend the use of our own oil for both maximum chain life and to minimise environmental damage. If our own chain oil is not available, standard chain oil is recommended. Never use waste oil! Using waste oil can be dangerous to you and damage the machine and environment. Filling with chain oil • All our chain saws have an automatic chain lubrication system. On some models the oil flow is also adjustable. • The saw chain oil tank and the fuel tank are designed so that the fuel runs out before the saw chain oil. However, this safety feature requires that you use the right sort of chain oil (if the oil is too thin it will run out before the fuel), and that you adjust the carburetor as recommended (a lean mixture may mean that the fuel lasts longer than the oil) and that you also use the recommended cutting equipment (a bar that is too long will use more chain oil). Checking chain lubrication • Check the chain lubrication each time you refuel. See instructions under the heading Lubricating the bar tip sprocket. Aim the tip of the bar at a light coloured surface about 20 cm (8 inches) away. After 1 minute running at 3/4 throttle you should see a distinct line of oil on the light surface. If the chain lubrication is not working: • Check that the oil channel in the bar is not obstructed. Clean if necessary. • Check that the groove in the edge of the bar is clean. Clean if necessary. • Check that the bar tip sprocket turns freely and that the lubricating hole in the tip sprocket is not blocked. Clean and lubricate if necessary. If the chain lubrication system is still not working after carrying out the above checks and associated measures you should contact your servicing dealer.! WARNING! The risk of kickback is increased if the depth gauge setting is too large! ! WARNING! A slack chain may jump off the bar and cause serious or even fatal injury. ! WARNING! Always wear approved protective gloves. Even a non-moving chain can cause serious cuts to yourself or persons you bump into with an exposed chain. ! WARNING! Poor lubrication of cutting equipment may cause the chain to snap, which could lead to serious, even fatal injuries. IMPORTANT! When using vegetable based saw chain oil, dismantle and clean the groove in the bar and saw chain before long-term storage. Otherwise there is a risk of the saw chain oil oxidizing, which will result in the saw chain becoming stiff and the bar tip sprocket jamming.
GENERAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS / ASSEMBLY English – 131151508-26 Rev. 1 2009-07-08 Chain drive sprocket The clutch drum is fitted with a Spur sprocket (the chain sprocket is welded on the drum). Regularly check the degree of wear on the drive sprocket. Replace if wear is excessive. Replace the drive sprocket whenever you replace the chain. Checking wear on cutting equipment Check the chain daily for: • Visible cracks in rivets and links. • Whether the chain is stiff. • Whether rivets and links are badly worn. Replace the saw chain if it exhibits any of the points above. We recommend you compare the existing chain with a new chain to decide how badly the existing chain is worn. When the length of the cutting teeth has worn down to only 0.16 inch (4 mm) the chain must be replaced. Bar Check regularly: • Whether there are burrs on the edges of the bar. Remove these with a file if necessary. (15) • Whether the groove in the bar has become badly worn. Replace the bar if necessary. (16) • Whether the tip of the bar is uneven or badly worn. If a hollow forms on the underside of the bar tip this is due to running with a slack chain. • To prolong the life of the bar you should turn it over daily.Fitting the bar and chain Check that the chain brake is in disengaged position by moving the front hand guard towards the front handle. Remove the knob and remove the clutch cover (chain brake). Take off the transportation ring (A). (17) Fit the bar over the bar bolts. Place the bar in its rearmost position. Place the chain over the drive sprocket locate it in the groove on the bar. Begin on the top edge of the bar. (18) Make sure that the edges of the cutting links are facing forward on the top edge of the bar. Fit the clutch cover (chain brake) and locate the chain adjuster pin in the cut-out in the bar. Check that the drive links of the chain fit correctly on the drive sprocket and that the chain is in the groove on the bar. (19) Tension the chain by turning the wheel down (+). The chain should be tensioned until it does not sag from the underside of the bar. (12) The chain is correctly tensioned when it does not sag from the underside of the bar, but can still be turned easily by hand. Hold up the bar tip and tighten the bar knob by turning the knob clockwise. (13) When fitting a new chain, the chain tension has to be checked frequently until the chain is run-in. Check the chain tension regularly. A correctly tensioned chain ensures good cutting performance and long life. (20) ! WARNING! Most chain saw accidents happen when the chain touches the operator. Wear personal protective equipment. See instructions under the heading Personal protective equipment. Do not tackle any job that you feel you are not adequately trained for. See instructions under the headings Personal protective equipment, How to avoid kickback, Cutting equipment and General working instructions. Avoid situations where there is a risk of kickback. See instructions under the heading Machine′s safety equipment. Use the recommended protective equipment and check its condition. See instructions under the heading General working instructions. Check that all the chain saw safety features are working. See instructions under the headings General working instructions and General safety precautions. ! WARNING! Switch off the engine before carrying out any checks or maintenance. The stop switch automatically returns to the start position. In order to prevent unintentional starting, the spark plug cap must be removed from the spark plug when assembling, checking and/or performing maintenance. Always wear gloves, when working with the chain, in order to protect your hands from injury.
FUEL HANDLING 14 – English1151508-26 Rev. 1 2009-07-08 Fuel Note! The machine is equipped with a two-stroke engine and must always be run using a mixture of gasoline and two-stroke oil. It is important to accurately measure the amount of oil to be mixed to ensure that the correct mixture is obtained. When mixing small amounts of fuel, even small inaccuracies can drastically affect the ratio of the mixture. Gasoline • Use good quality unleaded gasoline.• The lowest recommended octane grade is 87 ((RON+MON)/2). If you run the engine on a lower octane grade than 87 so-called knocking can occur. This gives rise to a high engine temperature and increased bearing load, which can result in serious engine damage. • When working with continuous high revs (e.g. limbing) a higher octane is recommended. Running-in Avoid running at a too high speed for extended periods during the first 10 hours. Two-stroke oil • For best results and performance use HUSQVARNA two-stroke engine oil, which is specially formulated for our air-cooled two stroke-engines. • Never use two-stroke oil intended for water-cooled engines, sometimes referred to as outboard oil (rated TCW). • Never use oil intended for four-stroke engines. Mixing ratio 1:50 (2%) for all engines. Mixing • Always mix the gasoline and oil in a clean container intended for fuel. • Always start by filling half the amount of the gasoline to be used. Then add the entire amount of oil. Mix (shake) the fuel mixture. Add the remaining amount of gasoline. • Mix (shake) the fuel mixture thoroughly before filling the machine’s fuel tank. • Do not mix more than one month’s supply of fuel at a time. • If the machine is not used for some time the fuel tank should be emptied and cleaned. Chain oil• We recommend the use of special oil (chain oil) with good adhesion characteristics. • Never use waste oil. This results in damage to the oil pump, the bar and the chain. • It is important to use oil of the right grade (suitable viscosity range) to suit the air temperature. • In temperatures below 32 °F (0°C) some oils become too viscous. This can overload the oil pump and result in damage to the oil pump components. • Contact your service agent when choosing chain oil. Fueling Clean the area around the fuel cap. Clean the fuel and chain oil tanks regularly. The fuel filter must be replaced at least once a year. Contamination in the tanks causes malfunction. Make sure the fuel is well mixed by shaking the container before refuelling. The capacities of the chain oil tank and fuel tank are carefully matched. You should therefore always fill the chain oil tank and fuel tank at the same time. Fuel safety • Never refuel the machine while the engine is running. • Make sure there is plenty of ventilation when refuelling or mixing fuel (gasoline and 2-stroke oil). • Move the machine at least 10 ft (3 m) from the refuelling point before starting it. • Never start the machine: 1 If you have spilled fuel or chain oil on the machine. Wipe off the spillage and allow remaining fuel to evaporate. 2 If you have spilled fuel on yourself or your clothes, change your clothes. Wash any part of your body that has come in contact with fuel. Use soap and water. 3 If the machine is leaking fuel. Check regularly for leaks from the fuel cap and fuel lines. ! WARNING! Always ensure there is adequate ventilation when handling fuel. Gasoline, litre Two-stroke oil, litre 2% (1:50) 5 0,10 10 0,20 15 0,30 20 0,40 US gallon US fl. oz. 1 2 1/2 2 1/2 6 1/2 5 12 7/8 ! WARNING! Taking the following precautions, will lessen the risk of fire: Do not smoke and do not place any hot objects in the vicinity of fuel. Always stop the engine and let it cool for a few minutes before refuelling. When refuelling, open the fuel cap slowly so that any excess pressure is released gently. Tighten the fuel cap carefully after refuelling. Always move the machine away from the refuelling area before starting. ! WARNING! Fuel and fuel vapor are highly flammable. Take care when handling fuel and chain oil. Be aware of the risks of fire, explosion and those associated with inhalation. ! WARNING! Never use a machine with visible damage to the spark plug guard and ignition cable. A risk of sparking arises, which can cause a fire.
FUEL HANDLING / STARTING AND STOPPING English – 151151508-26 Rev. 1 2009-07-08 Transport and storage • Always store the chain saw and fuel so that there is no risk of leakages or fumes coming into contact with sparks or naked flames from electrical equipment, electric motors, relays/switches, boilers and the like. • Always store fuel in an approved container designed for that purpose. • For longer periods of storage or for transport of the chain saw, the fuel and chain oil tanks should be emptied. Ask where you can dispose of waste fuel and chain oil at your local gas station. • Ensure the machine is cleaned and that a complete service is carried out before long-term storage. • The bar guard must always be fitted to the cutting attachment when the machine is being transported or in storage, in order to prevent accident contact with the sharp chain. Even a non-moving chain can cause serious cuts to yourself or persons you bump into with an exposed chain. Long-term storage Empty the fuel/oil tanks in a well ventilated area. Store the fuel in approved cans in a safe place. Fit the bar guard. Clean the machine. See instructions under the heading Maintenance schedule. Starting and stopping Cold engine Starting: The chain brake must be engaged when the chain saw is started. Activate the brake by moving the front hand guard forwards. (21) 1. Air purge: Press the air purge repeatedly until fuel begins to fill the bulb. The bulb need not be completely filled. (24) 2. Choke: Pull the blue choke/fast idle lever out to the full extent (to the FULL CHOKE position). When the choke/ fast idle lever is pulled out to the full extent, the correct throttle setting is set automatically. (22) Start throttle: The correct choke/start throttle setting is obtained by moving the control to the choke position. (23) Starting Grip the front handle with your left hand. Hold the chain saw on the ground by placing your right foot through the rear handle. 3. Pull the starter handle with your right hand and pull out the starter cord slowly until you feel a resistance (as the starter pawls engage) then pull firmly and rapidly. Never twist the starter cord around your hand. (26) CAUTION! Do not pull the star ter cord all the way out and do not let go of the star ter handle when the cord is fully extended. This can damage the machine. 4. Push in the choke control to the ”1/2 choke” setting as soon as the engine fires which can be heard through a puff sound. (22) 5. Keep on pulling the cord powerfully until the engine starts. (27) Allow engine to warm for thirty seconds, then squeeze throttle trigger to set normal idle. As the chain brake is still engaged the speed of the engine must be set to idling as soon as possible, this is achieved by quickly pressing the throttle trigger once. This prevents unnecessary wear to the clutch, clutch drum and brake band. Note! Reactivate the chain brake by pushing the front hand guard back (marked ”PULL BACK TO RESET”) towards the front handle. (28) The chain saw is now ready for use. There is a simplified start reminder with illustrations to describe each step on the rear edge of the saw (A) . Warm engine Use the same procedure as for starting a cold engine but without setting the choke control in the choke position. Set the throttle to the star t position by pulling out the blue choke control to the choke position and then pushing it in again. (25) • Never start a chain saw unless the bar, chain and all covers are fitted correctly. See instructions under the heading Assembly. Without a bar and chain attached to the chain saw the clutch can come loose and cause serious injury. (29) • The chain brake should be activated when starting. Se instructions under the heading Star t and stop. Do not drop start. This method is very dangerous because you may lose control of the saw. (30) • Never start the machine indoors. Exhaust fumes can be dangerous if inhaled. • Observe your surroundings and make sure that there is no risk of people or animals coming into contact with the cutting equipment. • Always hold the saw with both hands. The right hand should be on the rear handle, and the left hand on the front handle. All people, whether right or left handed, should use this grip. Use a firm grip with thumbs and fingers encircling the chain saw handles. (31) Stopping Stop the engine by pressing down the stop button. (32) ! WARNING! Note the following before starting: The chain brake must be engaged when the chain saw is started to reduce the chance of contact with the moving chain during starting. Never start a chain saw unless the bar, chain and all covers are fitted correctly. Otherwise the clutch can come loose and cause personal injuries. Place the machine on firm ground. Make sure you have a secure footing and that the chain cannot touch anything. Keep people and animals well away from the working area. ! WARNING! Long term inhalation of the engine’s exhaust fumes, chain oil mist and dust from sawdust can represent a health risk.
WORKING TECHNIQUES 16 – English1151508-26 Rev. 1 2009-07-08 Before use: (33) 1 Check that the chain brake works correctly and is not damaged. 2 Check that the rear right hand guard is not damaged. 3 Check that the throttle lockout works correctly and is not damaged. 4 Check that the stop switch works correctly and is not damaged. 5 Check that all handles are free from oil. 6 Check that the anti vibration system works and is not damaged. 7 Check that the muffler is securely attached and not damaged. 8 Check that all parts of the chain saw are tightened correctly and that they are not damaged or missing. 9 Check that the chain catcher is in place and not damaged.10 Check the chain tension. General working instructions Basic safety rules 1 Look around you: • To ensure that people, animals or other things cannot affect your control of the machine. • To make sure that none of the above might come within reach of your saw or be injured by falling trees. CAUTION! Follow the instructions above, but do not use a chain saw in a situation where you cannot call for help in case of an accident. 2 Do not use the machine in bad weather, such as dense fog, heavy rain, strong wind, intense cold, etc. Working in bad weather is tiring and often brings added risks, such as icy ground, unpredictable felling direction, etc. 3 Take great care when removing small branches and avoid cutting bushes (i.e. cutting many small branches at the same time). Small branches can be grabbed by the chain and thrown back at you, causing serious injury. 4 Make sure you can move and stand safely. Check the area around you for possible obstacles (roots, rocks, branches, ditches, etc.) in case you have to move sud- denly. Take great care when working on sloping ground. 5 Take great care when cutting a tree that is under tension. A tree that is under tension may spring back to its normal position before or after being cut. If you position yourself incorrectly or make the cut in the wrong place the tree may hit you or the machine and cause you to lose control. Both situations can cause serious personal injury. 6 Before moving your chain saw switch off the engine and lock the chain using the chain brake. Carry the chain saw with the bar and chain pointing backwards. Fit a guard to the bar before transporting the chain saw or carrying it for any distance. 7 When you put the chain saw on the ground, lock the saw chain using the chain brake and ensure you have a constant view of the machine. Switch the engine off before leaving your chain saw for any length of time. General rules 1 If you understand what kickback is and how it happens then you can reduce or eliminate the element of surprise. By being prepared you reduce the risk. Kickback is usually quite mild, but it can sometimes be very sudden and violent. 2 Always hold the chain saw firmly with your right hand on the rear handle and your left hand on the front handle. Wrap your fingers and thumbs around the handles. You should use this grip whether you are right-handed or left-handed. This grip minimizes the effect of kickback and lets you keep the chain saw under control. Do not let go of the handles! 3 Most kickback accidents happen during limbing. Make sure you are standing firmly and that there is nothing in the way that might make you trip or lose your balance. Lack of concentration can lead to kickback if the kickback zone of the bar accidentally touches a branch, nearby tree or some other object. Have control over the workpiece. If the pieces you intend to cut are small and light, they can jam in the saw chain and be thrown towards you. This is not necessarily dangerous in itself, but you may be surprised and lose control of the saw. Never saw stacked logs or branches without first separating them. Only saw one log or one piece at a time. Remove the cut pieces to keep your working area safe. 4 Never use the chain saw above shoulder height and avoid cutting with the tip of the bar. Never use the chain saw one-handed! (34) 5 In order to keep control of your saw, always maintain a firm foothold. Never work on a ladder, in a tree or on any other insecure suppor t. (35) 6 Always use a fast cutting speed, i.e. full throttle. 7 Take great care when you cut with the top edge of the bar, i.e. when cutting from the underside of the object. This is known as cutting with a pushing chain. The chain tries to push the chain saw back towards the user. If the saw chain is jamming, the saw may be pushed back at you. 8 Unless the user resists this pushing force there is a risk that the chain saw will move so far backwards that only the kickback zone of the bar is in contact with the tree, which can lead to a kickback. (36) Cutting with the bottom edge of the bar, i.e. from the top of the object downwards, is known as cutting with a IMPORTANT! This section describes basic safety rules for using a chain saw. This information is never a substitute for professional skills and experience. If you get into a situation where you feel unsafe, stop and seek expert advice. Contact your chain saw dealer, service agent or an experienced chain saw user. Do not attempt any task that you are not sure you can handle! Before using a chain saw you must understand the effects of kickback and how to avoid them. See instructions under the heading How to avoid kickback. Before using a chain saw you must understand the difference between cutting with the top and bottom edges of the bar. See instructions under the headings How to avoid kickback and Machine’s safety equipment. Wear personal protective equipment. See instructions under the heading Personal protective equipment.
WORKING TECHNIQUES English – 171151508-26 Rev. 1 2009-07-08 pulling chain. In this case the chain saw pulls itself towards the tree and the front edge of the chain saw body rests naturally on the trunk when cutting. Cutting with a pulling chain gives the operator better control over the chain saw and the position of the kickback zone. 9 Follow the instructions on sharpening and maintaining your bar and chain. When you replace the bar and chain use only combinations that are recommended by us. See instructions under the headings Cutting equipment and Technical data. Basic cutting technique General • Always use full throttle when cutting! • Reduce the speed to idle after every cut (running the engine for too long at full throttle without any load, i.e. without any resistance from the chain during cutting, can lead to serious engine damage). • Cutting from above = Cutting with a pulling chain. • Cutting from below = Cutting with pushing chain. Cutting with a pushing chain increases the risk of kickback. See instructions under the heading How to avoid kickback. Terms Cutting = General term for cutting through wood. Limbing = Cutting branches off a felled tree. Splitting = When the object you are cutting breaks off before the cut is complete. There are five important factors you should consider before making a cut: 1 Make sure the cutting equipment will not jam in the cut. 2 Make sure the object you are cutting will not split. 3 Make sure the chain will not strike the ground or any other object during or after cutting. 4 Is there a risk of kickback? 5 Do the conditions and surrounding terrain affect how safely you can stand and move about? Two factors decide whether the chain will jam or the object that you are cutting will split: the first is how the object is supported before and after cutting, and the second is whether it is in tension. In most cases you can avoid these problems by cutting in two stages; from the top and from the bottom. You need to support the object so that it will not trap the chain or split during cutting. The following instructions describe how to handle the common situations you are likely to encounter when using a chain saw. Limbing When limbing thick branches you should use the same approach as for cutting. Cut difficult branches piece by piece. Cutting If you have a pile of logs, each log you attempt to cut should be removed from the pile, placed on a saw horse or runners and cut individually. Remove the cut pieces from the cutting area. By leaving them in the cutting area, you increase the risk for inadvertently getting a kickback, as well as increasing the risk of losing your balance while working. The log is lying on the ground . There is little risk of the chain jamming or the object splitting. However there is a risk that the chain will touch the ground when you finish the cut. Cut all the way through the log from above. Avoid letting the chain touch the ground as you finish the cut. Maintain full throttle but be prepared for what might happen. (37) If it is possible (can you turn the log?) stop cutting about 2/ 3 of the way through the log. Turn the log and finish the cut from the opposite side. The log is supported at one end. There is a high risk that it will split. Start by cutting from below (about 1/3 of the way through). Finish by cutting from above so that the two cuts meet. The log is supported at both ends. There is a high risk that the chain will jam. Start by cutting from above (about 1/3 of the way through). Finish by cutting from below so that the two cuts meet. Tree felling technique Safe distance The safe distance between a tree that is to be felled and anyone else working nearby is at least 2 1/2 tree lengths. Make sure that no-one else is in this ”risk zone” before or during felling. (38) Felling direction The aim is to fell the tree in a position where you can limb and cross-cut the log as easily as possible. You want it to fall in a location where you can stand and move about safely. Once you have decided which way you want the tree to fall you must judge which way the tree would fall naturally. Several factors affect this: • Lean of the tree • Bend • Wind direction ! WARNING! Never use a chain saw by holding it with one hand. A chain saw is not safely controlled with one hand. Always have a secure, firm grip around the handles with both hands. IMPORTANT! If the chain jams in the cut: stop the engine! Don’t try to pull the chain saw free. If you do you may be injured by the chain when the chain saw suddenly breaks free. Use a lever to open up the cut and free the chain saw. ! WARNING! Never attempt to cut logs while they are in a pile or when a couple of logs are lying together. Such procedures drastically increase the risk of kickback which can result in a serious or fatal injury. IMPORTANT! It takes a lot of experience to fell a tree. Inexperienced users of chain saws should not fell trees. Do not attempt any task beyond your experience level!
WORKING TECHNIQUES 18 – English1151508-26 Rev. 1 2009-07-08 • Arrangement of branches • Weight of snow • Obstacles within the reach of the tree: for example, other trees, power lines, roads and buildings. • Look for signs of damage and rot in the stem, this makes it more probably that the tree will break and star t to fall before you expect it to. You may find you are forced to let the tree fall in its natural direction because it is impossible or dangerous to try to make it fall in the direction you first intended. Another very important factor, which does not affect the felling direction but does affect your safety, is to make sure the tree has no damaged or dead branches that might break off and hit you during felling. The main point to avoid is letting the tree fall onto another tree. It is very dangerous to remove a trapped tree and there is high accident risk. See instructions under the heading Freeing a tree that has fallen badly. Clearing the trunk and preparing your retreat Delimb the stem up to shoulder height. It is safer to work from the top down and to have the tree between you and the saw. Remove any undergrowth from the base of the tree and check the area for obstacles (stones, branches, holes, etc.) so that you have a clear path of retreat when the tree star ts to fall. Your path of retreat should be roughly 135 degrees away from the intended felling direction. (39) Felling Felling is done using three cuts. First you make the directional cuts, which consist of the top cut and the bottom cut, then you finish with the felling cut. By placing these cuts correctly you can control the felling direction very accurately. Directional cuts To make the directional cuts you begin with the top cut. Stand to the right of the tree and cut on the pull stroke. Next make the bottom cut so that it finishes exactly at the end of the top cut. (40) The directional cuts should run 1/4 of the diameter through the trunk and the angle between the top cut and bottom cut should be 45 °. The line where the two cuts meet is called the directional cut line. This line should be perfectly horizontal and at right angles (90 °) to the chosen felling direction. (41) Felling cut The felling cut is made from the opposite side of the tree and it must be perfectly horizontal. Stand on the left side of the tree and cut on the pull stroke. Make the felling cut about 1.5-2 inches (3-5 cm) above the bottom directional cut. (42) Finish the felling cut parallel with the directional cut line so that the distance between them is at least 1/10 of the trunk diameter. The uncut section of the trunk is called the felling hinge. The felling hinge controls the direction that the tree falls in. (43) All control over the felling direction is lost if the felling hinge is too narrow or non-existent, or if the directional cuts and felling cut are badly placed. When the felling cut and directional cut are complete the tree should start to fall by itself or with the aid of a felling wedge or breaking bar. We recommend that you use a bar that is longer than the diameter of the tree, so that you can make the felling cut and directional cuts with single cutting strokes. See instructions under the heading Technical data section to find out which lengths of bar are recommended for your saw. There are methods for felling trees with a diameter larger than the bar length. However these methods involve a much greater risk that the kickback zone of the bar will come into contact with the tree. Freeing a tree that has fallen badly Freeing a ”trapped tree” It is very dangerous to remove a trapped tree and there is high accident risk. Never try to fell the tree that is trapped. Never work in the risk zone of the hanging trapped tree. The safest method is to use a winch. • Tractor-mounted • Portable Cutting trees and branches that are in tension Preparations: Work out which side is in tension and where the point of maximum tension is (i.e. where it would break if it was bent even more). Decide which is the safest way to release the tension and whether you are able to do it safely. In complicated situations the only safe method is to put aside your chain saw and use a winch. General advice: Position yourself so that you will be clear of the tree or branch when the tension is released. Make one or more cuts at or near the point of maximum tension. Make as many cuts of sufficient depth as necessary to reduce the tension and make the tree or branch break at the point of maximum tension. Never cut straight through a tree or branch that is in tension! If you must cut across tree/limb, make two to three cuts, one inch apart, one to two inches deep. Continue to cut deeper until tree/limb bends and tension is released. Cut tree/limb from outside the bend, after tension has been released. IMPORTANT! During critical felling operations, hearing protectors should be lifted immediately when sawing is completed so that sounds and warning signals can be heard. ! WARNING! Unless you have special training we advise you not to fell trees with a diameter larger than the bar length of your saw!
WORKING TECHNIQUES / MAINTENANCE English – 191151508-26 Rev. 1 2009-07-08 How to avoid kickback What is kickback? The word kickback is used to describe the sudden reaction that causes the chain saw and bar to jump off an object when the upper quadrant of the tip of the bar, known as the kickback zone, touches an object. (44) Kickback always occurs in the cutting plane of the bar. Normally the chain saw and bar are thrown backwards and upwards towards the user. However, the chain saw may move in a different direction depending on the way it was being used when the kickback zone of the bar touched the object. Kickback only occurs if the kickback zone of the bar touches an object. (45) Limbing Make sure that you can stand and move about safely. Work on the left side of the trunk. Work as close as possible to the chain saw for maximum control. If possible, let the weight of the chain saw rest on the trunk. Keep the trunk between you and the chain saw as you move along the trunk. Cutting the trunk into logs See instructions under the heading Basic cutting technique. General The user must only carry out the maintenance and service work described in this manual. More extensive work must be carried out by an authorised service workshop. Carburetor adjustment Your Husqvarna product has been designed and manufactured to specifications that reduce harmful emissions. Function • The carburetor governs the engine’s speed via the throttle control. Air and fuel are mixed in the carburetor. The air/fuel mixture is adjustable. Correct adjustment is essential to get the best performance from the machine. • The T-screw regulates the throttle setting at idle speed. If the T-screw is turned clockwise this gives a higher idle speed; turning it anti-clockwise gives a lower idle speed. Basic settings and running in The basic carburetor settings are adjusted during testing at the factory. Fine adjustment should be carried out by a skilled technician. Rec. idle speed: See the Technical data section. Fine adjustment of the idling speed T Adjust the idle speed with the T-screw. If it is necessary to re-adjust, turn the T-screw clockwise while the engine is running, until the chain star ts to rotate. Then turn counter- clockwise until the chain stops. A correctly adjusted idle speed setting occurs when the engine runs smoothly in every position. It should also be good margin to the r pm when the chain star ts to rotate. Checking, maintaining and servicing chain saw safety equipment Chain brake and front hand guard Checking brake band wear Brush off any wood dust, resin and dir t from the chain brake and clutch drum. Dirt and wear can impair operation of the brake. (46) Regularly check that the brake band is at least 0.024 inch (0.6 mm) thick at its thinnest point. Checking the front hand guard Make sure the front hand guard is not damaged and that there are no visible defects such as cracks. Move the front hand guard forwards and back to make sure it moves freely and that it is securely anchored to the clutch cover. (47) ! WARNING! Kickback can happen very suddenly and violently; kicking the chain saw, bar and chain back at the user. If this happens when the chain is moving it can cause very serious, even fatal injuries. It is vital you understand what causes kickback and that you can avoid it by taking care and using the right working technique. ! WARNING! A majority of kickback accidents occur during limbing. Do not use the kickback zone of the guide bar. Be extremely cautious and avoid contacting the log, other limbs or objects with the nose of the guide bar. Be extremely cautious of limbs under tension. They can spring back toward you and cause loss of control resulting in injury. ! WARNING! Contact your servicing dealer, if the idle speed setting cannot be adjusted so that the chain stops at idle. Do not use the chain saw until it has been properly adjusted or repaired. Note! All servicing and repair work on the machine requires special training. This is especially true of the machine ′s safety equipment. If your machine fails any of the checks described below we recommend you to contact our servicing dealer. Any maintenance other than that described in this manual must be carried out by your servicing dealer (retailer). Switch off the engine and take off the ignition cable before repairs or maintenance
MAINTENANCE 20 – English1151508-26 Rev. 1 2009-07-08 Checking the inertia brake release With the engine turned off, hold the chain saw over a stump or other firm object. Let go of the front handle so that the bar drops towards the stump as the chain saw rotates around the rear handle. When the bar hits the stump the brake should be applied. (48) Checking the brake trigger Place the chain saw on firm ground and start it. Make sure the chain does not touch the ground or any other object. See the instructions under the heading Star t and stop. Grasp the chain saw firmly, wrapping your fingers and thumbs around the handles. Apply full throttle and activate the chain brake by tilting your left wrist forward onto the front hand guard. Do not let go of the front handle. The chain should stop immediately. Throttle lockout • Make sure the throttle control is locked at the idle setting when the throttle lockout is released. • Press the throttle lockout and make sure it returns to its original position when you release it. • Check that the throttle control and throttle lockout move freely and that the return springs work properly. • Start the chain saw and apply full throttle. Release the throttle control and check that the chain stops and remains stationary. If the chain rotates when the throttle control is in the idle position you should check the carburetor idle adjustment. Chain catcher Check that the chain catcher is not damaged and is firmly attached to the body of the chain saw. Right hand guard Check that the right hand guard is not damaged and that there are no visible defects, such as cracks. Vibration damping system Regularly check the vibration damping units for cracks or deformation. Make sure the vibration damping units are securely attached to the engine unit and handle unit. Stop switch Start the engine and make sure the engine stops when you move the stop switch to the stop setting. Muffler Never use a machine that has a faulty muffler. Regularly check that the muffler is securely attached to the machine. Note: The spark arrestor screen (A) on this machine is serviceable. (49) The screen must be replaced if it is damaged. If the screen is blocked the machine will overheat and this will cause damage to the cylinder and piston. Never use a machine with a muffler that is in poor condition. Never use a muffler if the spark arrestor screen is missing or defective. For normal homeowner use, the muffler and spark arresting screen will not require replacement. After 75 hours of use, we recommend that your muffler be replaced by your authorized Husqvarna service dealer. Air filter The air filter must be regularly cleaned to remove dust and dirt in order to avoid: • Carburettor malfunctions • Starting problems • Loss of engine power • Unnecessary wear to engine parts • Excessive fuel consumption. • Remove the air filter (3) after taking off the cylinder cover, screw (1) and filter cover (2). When refitting make sure that the air filter seals tightly against the filter holder. Clean the filter by brushing or shaking it. (50) The filter can be cleaned more thoroughly by washing it in water and detergent. An air filter that has been in use for a long time cannot be cleaned completely. The filter must therefore be replaced with a new one at regular intervals. A damaged air filter must always be replaced. A HUSQVARNA chain saw can be equipped with different types of air filters according to working conditions, weather, season, etc. Contact your dealer for advice. Spark plug The spark plug condition is influenced by: • Incorrect carburetor adjustment. • An incorrect fuel mixture (too much or incorrect type of oil). • A dirty air filter. These factors cause deposits on the spark plug electrodes, which may result in operating problems and starting difficulties. If the machine is low on power, difficult to start or runs poorly at idle speed: always check the spark plug first before taking any further action. If the spark plug is dirty, clean it and check that the electrode gap is 0.020 inch (0.5 mm). The spark plug should be replaced after about a month in operation or earlier if necessary. Note! Always use the recommended spark plug type! Use of the wrong spark plug can damage the piston/cylinder. Check that the spark plug is fitted with a suppressor. Cooling system To keep the working temperature as low as possible the machine is equipped with a cooling system. The cooling system consists of: • Air intake on the starter. • Air guide plate. • Fins on the flywheel. • Cooling fins on the cylinder. • Cylinder cover (directs cold air over the cylinder). Clean the cooling system with a brush once a week, more often in demanding conditions. A dirty or blocked cooling system results in the machine overheating which causes damage to the piston and cylinder.