Brother Innovis 4500 D Manual
Have a look at the manual Brother Innovis 4500 D Manual online for free. It’s possible to download the document as PDF or print. UserManuals.tech offer 331 Brother manuals and user’s guides for free. Share the user manual or guide on Facebook, Twitter or Google+.
SEWING THE STITCHES Utility Stitches 69 3 Flat Fell Seam Use for reinforcing seams and finishing edges neatly. a aa aSelect and attach presser foot “J” . b bb bSew the finish line, then cut half of the seam allowance from the side on which the flat fell seam will lie. * When the automatic thread cutting and automatic reinforcement stitching are preset, reinforcement stitches will be sewn automatically at the beginning of sewing. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew a reinforcement stitch and trim the thread automatically at the end of sewing. a About 12 mm (approx. 1/2 inch) b Wrong side c cc cSpread the fabric out along the finish line. a Finish line b Wrong side d dd dLay both seam allowances on the side of the shorter seam (cut seam) and iron them. a Wrong side e ee eFold the longer seam allowance around the shorter one, and sew the edge of the fold. a Wrong side a Surface Pintuck a aa aMark along the folds on the wrong side of the fabric. a Wrong side b bb bTurn the fabric and iron the folded parts only. a Surface a b a b a a a aa Finished flat fell seam a a
SEWING THE STITCHES 70 c cc cSelect and attach presser foot “I” . d dd dSew a straight stitch along the fold. * When the automatic thread cutting and automatic reinforcement stitching are preset, reinforcement stitches will be sewn automatically at the beginning of sewing. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew a reinforcement stitch and trim the thread automatically at the end of sewing. a Width for pintuck b Wrong side c Surface e ee eIron the folds in the same direction. a Icb
SEWING THE STITCHES Utility Stitches 71 3 Zigzag Stitches Zigzag stitches are useful for overcasting, appliqué, patchwork, and many other applications. Select a stitch, and attach presser foot “J”. If the stitch which you select has a double mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reverse stitches by holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button. If the stitch which you select has a dot mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reinforcement stitches by holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button (see page 46). a aa aSelect a stitch. b bb bAttach presser foot “J” . Overcasting (Using a Zigzag Stitch) Sew the overcasting along the edge of the fabric while positioning the right-hand side needle drop point just outside the edge of the fabric. a Needle drop position Appliqué (Using a Zigzag Stitch) Attach the appliqué material using a temporary spray adhesive or basting, and then sew it. * Sew a zigzag stitch while positioning the right-hand side needle drop point just outside the edge of the fabric. StitchStitch namePresser footApplications Stitch width [mm (inch.)]Stitch length [mm (inch.)]Tw i n needle Auto.ManualAuto.Manual Zigzag stitch For overcasting, mending. Reverse stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch ” button. 3.5 (1/8) 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0 - 4.0 (0 - 3/16) OK ( J ) Zigzag stitch For overcasting, mending. Reinforcement stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch ” button. 3.5 (1/8) 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0 - 4.0 (0 - 3/16) OK ( J ) Zigzag stitch (right) Start from right needle position, zigzag sew at left.3.5 (1/8) 2.5 - 5.0 (3/32 - 3/16) 1.4 (1/16) 0.3 - 4.0 (1/64 - 3/16) OK ( J ) Zigzag stitch (left) Start from left needle position, zigzag sew at right.3.5 (1/8) 2.5 - 5.0 (3/32 - 3/16) 1.4 (1/16) 0.3 - 4.0 (1/64 - 3/16) OK ( J ) a
SEWING THE STITCHES 72 Patchwork (for Crazy Quilt) Turn back the desired width of fabric and position it over the lower fabric, then sew so that the stitch bridges both pieces of fabric. Sewing Curves (Using a Zigzag Stitch) Shorten the stitch length setting to obtain a fine stitch. Sew slowly, keeping the seams parallel with the fabric edge as you guide the fabric around the curve. Cord Guide Bobbin Cover (Using a Zigzag Stitch) a aa aRemove the bobbin cover from the machine (see page 27). b bb bThread the gimp thread through the hole in the cord guide bobbin cover from top to bottom. Position the thread in the notch at the back of the cord guide bobbin cover. a Notch b Gimp thread c cc cSnap the cord guide bobbin cover into place, making sure that the gimp thread can be fed freely. * Make sure there are no restrictions when feeding the thread. d dd dSet the zigzag width from 2.0-2.5 mm (approx. 1/16 - 3/32 inch). e ee eAttach presser foot “ N”. f ff fPosition the fabric right side up on top of the cord and place the cord to the rear of the machine under the presser foot. a Fabric (right side) b Gimp thread g gg gLower the presser foot and start sewing to make a decorative finish. a b N b a
SEWING THE STITCHES Utility Stitches 73 3 Elastic Zigzag Stitches Use elastic zigzag stitches for tape attaching, overcasting, darning, or a wide variety of other uses. a aa aSelect a stitch. b bb bAttach presser foot “J” . Tape Attaching Stretch the tape flat. While stretching the tape flat, sew the tape to the fabric. a Tape Overcasting Use this stitch to sew overcasting on the edge of stretch fabrics. Sew the overcasting along the edge of the fabric while positioning the right-hand side needle drop point just outside the edge of the fabric. StitchStitch namePresser footApplications Stitch width [mm (inch.)]Stitch length [mm (inch.)]Tw i n needle Auto.ManualAuto.Manual 2 step elastic zigzag Overcasting (medium weight and stretch fabrics), tape and elastic5.0 (3/16) 1.5 - 7.0 (1/16 - 1/4) 1.0 (1/16) 0.2 - 4.0 (1/64 - 1/16) OK ( J ) 2 step elastic zigzag Overcasting (medium weight and stretch fabrics), tape and elastic5.0 (3/16) 1.5 - 7.0 (1/16 - 1/4) 1.0 (1/16) 0.2 - 4.0 (1/64 - 1/16) OK ( J ) 3 step elastic zigzag Overcasting (medium, heavyweight and stretch fabrics), tape and elastic5.0 (3/16) 1.5 - 7.0 (1/16 - 1/4) 1.0 (1/16) 0.2 - 4.0 (1/64 - 1/16) OK ( J ) a
SEWING THE STITCHES 74 Overcasting Use for the beginning and end of seams in skirts or trousers, and the beginning and end of all cuttings. Use presser foot “G”, presser foot “J”, or the side cutter attachment depending on the kind of overcasting stitch you select. Overcasting Using Presser Foot “G ” a aa aSelect a stitch and attach presser foot “G ”. b bb bLower the presser foot so that the presser foot guide is set flush against the edge of the fabric. c cc cSew along the presser foot guide. a Guide StitchStitch namePresser footApplications Stitch width [mm (inch.)]Stitch length [mm (inch.)]Tw i n needle Auto.ManualAuto.Manual Overcasting stitch Reinforcing of light and medium weight fabrics3.5 (1/8) 2.5 - 5.0 (3/32 - 3/16) 2.0 (1/16) 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) NO Overcasting stitch Reinforcing of heavyweight fabric5.0 (3/16) 2.5 - 5.0 (3/32 - 3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) NO Overcasting stitch Reinforcing of medium, heavyweight and easily frayable fabrics or decorative stitching.5.0 (3/16) 3.5 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) NO CAUTION After the stitch width is adjusted, turn the handwheel toward you by hand and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may break and cause injury. a The needle should not touch If the presser foot is raised to its highest level, the needle may strike the presser foot. a G a
SEWING THE STITCHES Utility Stitches 75 3 Overcasting Using Presser Foot “J” a aa aSelect a stitch and attach presser foot “ J”. b bb bSew with the needle dropping slightly off the edge of the fabric. a Needle drop position StitchStitch namePresser footApplications Stitch width [mm (inch.)]Stitch length [mm (inch.)]Tw i n needle Auto.ManualAuto.Manual Overcasting stitch Reinforced seaming of stretch fabric5.0 (3/16) 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 9/32) 2.5 (3/32) 0.5 - 4.0 (1/32 - 3/16) OK ( J ) Overcasting stitch Reinforcing of medium stretch fabric and heavyweight fabric, decorative stitching5.0 (3/16) 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 9/32) 2.5 (3/32) 0.5 - 4.0 (1/32 - 3/16) OK ( J ) Overcasting stitch Reinforcement of stretch fabric or decorative stitching4.0 (3/16) 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) 4.0 (3/16) 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) OK ( J ) Overcasting stitch Stretch knit seam 5.0 (3/16) 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) 4.0 (3/16) 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) NO Single diamond overcast Reinforcement and seaming stretch fabric 6.0 (15/ 64) 1.0 - 7.0 (1/16 - 1/4) 3.0 (1/8) 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) OK ( J ) Single diamond overcast Reinforcement of stretch fabric 6.0 (15/ 64) 1.0 - 7.0 (1/16 - 1/4) 1.8 (1/16) 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) OK ( J ) a
SEWING THE STITCHES 76 Overcasting Using the Side Cutter By using the side cutter, you can do overcasting while cutting the fabric. a aa aSelect a stitch. b bb bFollow the steps on page 37 to remove the presser foot. c cc cPosition the fork on the side cutter ’s operating lever onto the needle clamp screw. a Needle clamp screw b Operating lever CAUTION Make sure to only select one of the stitches listed below. Using another stitch may cause the needle to hit the presser foot and break, possibly causing injury. Memo Thread the needle manually when using the side cutter, or only attach the side cutter after threading the needle using the “Automatic Threading ” button. StitchStitch namePresser footApplications Stitch width [mm (inch.)]Stitch length [mm (inch.)]Tw i n needle Auto.ManualAuto.Manual With side cutter Straight stitch while cutting fabrics0.0 (0) 0.0 - 2.5 (0 - 3/32) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2 - 5.0 (1/64 - 3/16) NO With side cutter Zigzag stitch while cutting fabrics 3.5 (1/8) 3.5 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0 - 4.0 (0 - 3/16) NO With side cutter Overcasting stitch while cutting fabrics3.5 (1/8) 3.5 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 2.0 (1/16) 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) NO With side cutter Overcasting stitch while cutting fabrics5.0 (3/16) 3.5 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) NO With side cutter Overcasting stitch while cutting fabrics5.0 (3/16) 3.5 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) NO Memo Make sure that the fork of the operating lever is set onto the needle screw firmly. a b
SEWING THE STITCHES Utility Stitches 77 3 d dd dPosition the side cutter so that the side cutter pin is aligned with the notch in the presser foot holder, and then lower the presser foot. a Notch in presser foot holder b Pin → The side cutter is attached. e ee eMake a cut of approximately 20 mm (approx. 3/4 inch) in the fabric. a 20 mm (approx. 3/4 inch) f ff fPosition the fabric so that the right side of the cut is on top of the guide plate and the left side of the cut is underneath the presser foot. a Guide plate (lower knife) b Presser foot g gg gThread the needle manually and pull out a long section of the upper thread. Pass it below the presser foot and pull it out in the fabric feed direction. a Presser foot b Upper thread h hh hStart sewing. → A seam allowance is cut while the stitching is sewn. Memo If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the fabric will not be cut. ab a a b Note If the width has been adjusted, turn the hand- wheel by hand to check that the needle does not touch the side cutter. If the needle touches the side cutter, it might cause the needle to break. b a
SEWING THE STITCHES 78 When Sewing Straight Stitches While Using the Side Cutter The seam margin should be approximately 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch). a Seam margin Memo The fabric will not be cut if the whole fabric is simply spread out underneath the presser foot guide plate. Set the fabric as explained in step f from the previous section, and then start sewing. One layer of 13 oz. denim can be cut. Clean the side cutter after use to avoid hav- ing dust and scraps of thread build up on it. Add a small amount of oil as required to the cutting edge of the cutter. a