Brother Innovis 4500 D Manual

							STITCH SETTINGS
Sewing Basics
49
2
STITCH SETTINGS
When you select a stitch, your machine automatically selects the appropriate stitch wid\
th, stitch length, 
and upper thread tension. However, if needed, you can change any of the individual settings. 
Setting the Stitch Width
Follow the steps below when you want to change 
the zigzag stitch pattern width.
Example:
Press   to narrow the zigzag stitch pattern width. 
→ The value in the display gets smaller. Press   to widen the zigzag stitch pattern width. 
→
 The value in the display gets bigger. 
Setting the Stitch Length 
Follow the steps below when you want to change 
the stitch pattern length.
Note

Settings for some stitches cannot be changed (refer to the  “STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of 
this manual).
 If you turn off the machine or select another stitch without saving stitch setting changes (see  “Saving 
Your Stitch Settings ” on page 60), the stitch settings will return to their default settings. 
Memo
 For an alternate method of changing the 
stitch width using the speed controller, see 
page 82.
Memo
Press   to return the stitch width to the 
original setting.
Note
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the hand-
wheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that 
the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the nee-
dle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or 
break. 
						

							STITCH SETTINGS
50
Example:
Press   to shorten the stitch length.
→ The value in the display gets smaller.
Press   to lengthen the stitch length.
→  The value in the display gets bigger.
Setting the Thread Tension 
You may need to change the thread tension, 
depending on the fabric and thread being used. 
Follow the steps below to make any necessary 
changes.

  Proper Thread Tension 
The upper and lower threads should cross near the 
center of the fabric. If the thread tension is not 
properly set, the seam may have a poor finish or the 
fabric may pucker.
a Wrong side
b Surface 
c Upper thread
d Bobbin thread 

Upper Thread is Too Tight
If the bobbin thread can be seen on the surface of 
the fabric, press  .
a Bobbin thread
b Upper thread
c Surface 
d Locks appear on surface of fabric

Upper Thread is Too Loose
If the upper thread can be seen on the wrong side of 
the fabric, press  .
a Upper thread
b Bobbin thread
c Wrong side
d Locks appear on wrong side of fabric 
Memo
Using the Image Key, you can check 
changes made to the stitch.
 Press   to return the stitch length to the 
original setting.
 CAUTION
If the stitches get bunched together, lengthen the 
stitch length and continue sewing. Do not 
continue sewing without lengthening the stitch 
length. Otherwise, the needle may break and 
cause injury.
Memo
Press   to return the thread tension to 
the original setting.
c a
d
b
b
ad
c
c
a
b
d 
						

							USEFUL FUNCTIONS
Sewing Basics
51
2
USEFUL FUNCTIONS
Automatic Reinforcement 
Stitching 
After selecting a stitch pattern, turn on the 
automatic reinforcement stitching function before 
sewing, and the machine will automatically sew 
reinforcement stitches (or reverse stitches, 
depending on the stitch pattern) at the beginning 
and end of sewing. 
a
aa aSelect a stitch pattern. 
b
bb
bPress   to set the automatic 
reinforcement stitching function. 
→ The key will display as  .
c
cc cSet the fabric in the start position and start 
sewing.
a Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) 
→ The machine will automatically sew reverse stitches 
(or reinforcement stitches) and then continue 
sewing.
d
dd dPress the  “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch ” 
button. 
a Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) 
→ The machine will sew reverse stitches (or 
reinforcement stitches) and stop.
Memo
Some stitches, such as buttonholes and bar 
tacks, require reinforcement stitches at the 
beginning of sewing. If you select one of these 
stitches, the machine will automatically turn on 
this function (the key appears as   when 
the stitch is selected). 
Memo
If you press the  “Start/Stop ” button to pause 
sewing, press it again to continue. The 
machine will not sew reverse reinforcement 
stitches again. 
Memo
To turn off the automatic reinforcement stitch-
ing function, press   again, so it appears 
as .
a
a 
						

							USEFUL FUNCTIONS
52
Automatic Thread Cutting
After selecting a stitch pattern, turn on the 
automatic thread cutting function before sewing, 
and the machine will automatically sew 
reinforcement stitches (or reverse stitches, 
depending on the stitch pattern) at the beginning 
and end of sewing, and trim the threads at the end 
of sewing. This function is useful when sewing 
buttonholes and bar tacks. 
a
aa aSelect a stitch pattern. 
b
bb
bPress   to set the automatic thread 
cutting function. 
→ The key will display as  .
c
cc cSet the fabric in the start position and start 
sewing. 
a Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) 
→ The machine will automatically sew reverse stitches 
(or reinforcement stitches) and then continue 
sewing.
d
dd dPress the  “Reverse/Reinforcement 
Stitching ” button. 
a Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches)
→ The machine will sew reverse stitches (or 
reinforcement stitches), then trim the thread.
Memo
This function is set automatically when sewing 
embroidery. 
Memo
If you press the “ Start/Stop” button to pause 
sewing, press the same button again to con-
tinue. The beginning reverse/reinforcement 
stitches will not be sewn again.
Memo
To turn off the automatic thread cutting func-
tion, press   again, so it appears as  .
a
a 
						

							USEFUL FUNCTIONS
Sewing Basics
53
2

Using the Knee Lifter
Using the knee lifter, you can raise and lower the 
presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free 
to handle the fabric.
a
aa aAlign the tabs on the knee lifter with the 
notches in the jack, and then insert the knee 
lifter as far as possible.
b
bb bUse your knee to move the knee lifter to the 
right in order to raise the presser foot. 
Release the knee lifter to lower the presser 
foot.
Pivoting
If the pivot setting is selected, the machine stops 
with the needle lowered (in the fabric) and the 
presser foot is automatically raised to an 
appropriate height when the “Start/Stop” button is 
pressed. When the “Start/Stop” button is pressed 
again, the presser foot is automatically lowered 
and sewing continues. This function is useful for 
stopping the machine to rotate the fabric.
Note
If the knee lifter is not pushed into the mount-
ing slot as far as possible, it may come out 
during use.
 CAUTION
Be sure to keep your knee away from the knee 
lifter during sewing. If the knee lifter is pushed 
during machine operation, the needle may break 
or the thread tension may loosen.
 CAUTION
 When the pivot setting is selected, the 
machine starts when the “Start/Stop ” button is 
pressed or the foot controller is pressed down 
even if the presser foot has been raised. Be 
sure to keep your hands and other items away 
from the needle, otherwise injuries may occur.
Memo
When the pivot setting is selected, the height 
of the presser foot when sewing is stopped 
can be changed according to the type of fabric 
being sewn. Press   to display 
“ PIVOTING HEIGHT”  on P. 1 of the settings 
screen. Press   or   to select one of the 
three heights (3.2 mm, 5.0 mm or 7.5 mm). To 
raise the presser foot further, increase the 
setting. (Normally, 3.2 mm is set.) 
						

							USEFUL FUNCTIONS
54
a
aa aSelect a stitch.
b
bb
bPress   to select the pivot setting.
→ The key appears as  .
c
cc
cPlace the fabric under the presser foot with 
the needle at the starting point of the 
stitching, and then press the “ Start/Stop” 
button. The machine will begin sewing.
d
dd dPress the  “Start/Stop”  button to stop the 
machine at the point where the sewing 
direction changes.
→ The machine stops with the needle in the fabric, and 
the presser foot is raised.
e
ee eRotate the fabric, and then press the  “Start/
Stop”  button.
→The presser foot is automatically lowered, and 
sewing continues.
Note
The  “NEEDLE POSITION ” (P. 2 of the set-
tings screen) must be set in the down posi-
tion 
 for the pivot function to be used. 
When  “NEEDLE POSITION ” is set in the 
raised position,   appears as light gray 
and cannot be used.
 When the setting is selected, the pivot func-
tion can only be used with stitches where 
presser foot J or N is indicated in the upper-
left corner of the screen. If any other stitch is 
selected,   appears as light gray and is 
not available.
 Since the presser foot is fully raised when 
the automatic thread cutting key is pressed, 
press the “ Presser Foot Lifter” button to 
lower the presser foot, and then press the 
“ Start/Stop ” button to continue sewing.
 If the pivot setting is selected,   and   
beside  “PRESSER FOOT HEIGHT ” in the 
settings screen are not available and the 
setting cannot be changed.
Memo
If you press the “ Start/Stop” button to pause 
sewing, then press it again to continue, 
reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) will 
not be sewn. 
						

							USEFUL FUNCTIONS
Sewing Basics
55
2
Automatic Fabric Sensor System 
(Automatic Presser Foot 
Pressure)
The thickness of the fabric is automatically 
detected and the presser foot pressure is 
automatically adjusted with an internal sensor 
while sewing, so your fabric is fed smoothly. The 
fabric sensor system works continuously while 
sewing. This function is useful for sewing over 
thick seams (see page 47), or quilting (see page 
80).
a
aa aPress .
→ The settings screen appears.
b
bb
bSet  “AUTOMATIC FABRIC SENSOR 
SYSTEM ” to “ ON”.
c
cc
cPress   to return to the original screen.
Locking the Screen 
If the screen is locked before starting to sew, the 
various settings such as the stitch width and stitch 
length are locked and cannot be changed. This 
prevents screen settings from accidentally being 
changed or the machine from being stopped while 
large pieces of fabric or projects are being sewn. 
The screen can be locked when sewing utility 
stitches and character decorative stitches. 
a
aa aSelect a stitch pattern. 
b
bb
bIf necessary, adjust any settings such as the 
stitch width and stitch length.
c
cc cPress   to lock the screen settings. 
→ The key appears as  .
d
dd
dSew your project. 
e
ee
eWhen you are finished sewing, press   
again to unlock the screen settings.
 CAUTION
 If the screen is locked ( ), unlock the 
screen by pressing  . While the screen is 
locked, no other key can be operated.
 The settings are unlocked when the machine is 
turned off and on. 
						

							USEFUL FUNCTIONS
56 
						

							Chapter 3
Utility Stitches
SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES ......................58

Stitch Selection Screens............................................................ 58Selecting a Stitch .............................................................. 59

Using the Mirror Image Key ..................................................... 59

 Using the Image Key................................................................. 59
Saving Your Stitch Settings ............................................... 60

Saving Settings.......................................................................... 60

 Retrieving Saved Settings.......................................................... 61
Using the Sewing Type Selection Key ............................... 61
SEWING THE STITCHES .................................63
Straight Stitches ................................................................ 63

Changing the Needle Position (Left or Middle Needle Position 
Stitches Only) ........................................................................... 65

 Needle Plate and Needle Plate Cover Marks ............................ 65


Using the Straight Stitch Needle Plate and the Straight Stitch Foot.... 65

 Basting ..................................................................................... 67
Dart Seam ......................................................................... 67
Gathering.......................................................................... 68
Flat Fell Seam.................................................................... 69
Pintuck.............................................................................. 69
Zigzag Stitches .................................................................. 71

Overcasting (Using a Zigzag Stitch) ......................................... 71

 Appliqu é (Using a Zigzag Stitch) .............................................. 71

 Patchwork (for Crazy Quilt) ..................................................... 72

 Sewing Curves (Using a Zigzag Stitch) ..................................... 72

 Cord Guide Bobbin Cover (Using a Zigzag Stitch) ................... 72
Elastic Zigzag Stitches ....................................................... 73

Tape Attaching ......................................................................... 73

 Overcasting .............................................................................. 73
Overcasting ...................................................................... 74

Overcasting Using Presser Foot “G ”........................................ 74

 Overcasting Using Presser Foot “J ”.......................................... 75

 Overcasting Using the Side Cutter ........................................... 76

 When Sewing Straight Stitches While Using the Side Cutter .... 78
Quilting ............................................................................ 79

Piecing ..................................................................................... 80

 Quilting .................................................................................... 80

 Appliqu é................................................................................... 81

 Quilting with Satin Stitches ...................................................... 82

 Free-motion Quilting ................................................................ 83

 Echo Quilting Using the Free-motion Echo Quilting Foot “E” .. 86
Blind Hem Stitches ........................................................... 89

If the Needle does not Catch the Fold ...................................... 90

 If the Needle Catches Too Much of the Fold ............................ 90
Appliqu é........................................................................... 90

 Sewing Sharp Curves ................................................................ 91Shelltuck Stitches .............................................................. 91
Scallop Stitches ................................................................. 92
Top Stitching..................................................................... 92
Smocking Stitches ............................................................. 93
Fagoting ............................................................................ 93
Tape or Elastic Attaching .................................................. 94
Heirloom .......................................................................... 95

Hemstitching (1) (Daisy Stitch) ................................................ 95

 Hemstitching (2) (Drawn Work (1)) ......................................... 95

 Hemstitching (3) (Drawn Work (2)) ......................................... 96
One-step Buttonholes ........................................................97

Sewing Stretch Fabrics ............................................................100

 Odd Shaped Buttons/Buttons that do not Fit into the Button 
Holder Plate ............................................................................100
Four-step Buttonholes......................................................101

Darning ...................................................................................103Bar Tacks .........................................................................105

Bar Tacks on Thick Fabrics......................................................106Button Sewing .................................................................107

Attaching 4 Hole Buttons ........................................................108

 Attaching a Shank to the Button .............................................108
Eyelet ...............................................................................109
Multi-directional Sewing (Straight Stitch and Zigzag Stitch).....110
Zipper Insertion ...............................................................111

 Centered Zipper ......................................................................111

 Inserting a Side Zipper ............................................................112 
						

							SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES
58
SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES

Stitch Selection Screens
There are 5 categories of Utility Stitches.   indicates that there is more than one stitch selection screen 
for that category.
Straight/Overcasting/Quilting Stitches Decorative Stitches
Heirloom Stitches Buttonholes/Bar tacks Multi-directional Sewing