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Brother Innovis 4500 D Manual

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    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    Utility Stitches
    89
    3
    Blind Hem Stitches 
    Select from these stitches to sew the hems or cuffs of dresses, blouses, pants, or skirts. 
    a
    aa aSelect a stitch.
    b
    bb
    bPlace the fabric wrong side up, and fold and 
    baste the fabric.
    a 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)
    b Basting stitches
    c
    cc cFold the fabric again.
    a 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)
    b Wrong side of fabric
    c Basting stitches
    d
    dd
    dAttach blind hem stitch foot  “R ”, and lower 
    the presser foot. Position the fabric so the 
    folded edge touches the guide of the presser 
    foot.
    a Guide 
    b Fold 
    e
    ee eSew the fabric, keeping the folded edge in 
    contact with the presser foot.
    a Needle position 
    StitchStitch namePresser 
    footApplications
    Stitch width 
    [mm (inch.)]Stitch length  [mm (inch.)]Tw i n  
    needle
    Auto.ManualAuto.Manual
    Blind hem stitch Hemming woven fabrics
    0.0
    (0) +3.0 - -3.0
    (+1/8 - -1/8) 2.0
    (1/16) 1.0 - 3.5
    (1/16 - 1/8) NO
    Blind hem stitch 
    stretch Hemming stretch fabric
    0.0
    (0) +3.0 - -3.0
    (+1/8 - -1/8) 2.0
    (1/16) 1.0 - 3.5
    (1/16 - 1/8) NO
    a
    b
    aba
    c
    c
    a
    b
    R
    a 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    90
    f
    ff fRemove the basting stitches and turn the 
    fabric over.
    a Wrong side of fabric 
    b Right side of fabric 
    If the Needle does not Catch the 
    Fold 
    Adjust the width so that the needle slightly catches 
    the fold by pressing   in the width display.
    If the Needle Catches Too Much of 
    the Fold 
    Adjust the width so that the needle slightly catches 
    the fold by pressing   in the width display.
    Appliqu é 
    a
    aa aUse a temporary spray adhesive, fabric glue 
    or a basting stitch to attach the appliqué  to 
    the fabric. 
    * This will keep the fabric from moving during 
    sewing.
    a Appliqué  
    b Fabric glue 
    b
    bb bSelect  or .
    * Adjust the stitch length and width to correspond to 
    the appliqué shape, size, and quality of material (see 
    page 49).
    c
    cc cAttach presser foot “ J”. Check that the 
    needle drops slightly off the edge of the 
    appliqué , then start sewing.
    aAppliqué  material 
    a Needle drop position 
    Memo
    Blind hem stitches cannot be sewn if the left 
    needle drop point does not catch the fold. If 
    the needle catches too much of the fold, the 
    fabric cannot be unfolded and the seam 
    appearing on the right side of the fabric will be 
    very large, leaving an unattractive finish. If you 
    experience either of these cases, follow the 
    instructions below to solve the problem.
    ab
    Memo
    For details on each stitch, refer to the 
    “STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this 
    manual.
    b
    a
    a 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    Utility Stitches
    91
    3
    Sewing Sharp Curves 
    Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric 
    outside the appliqué. Raise the presser foot and turn 
    the fabric a little bit at a time while sewing for an 
    attractive finish to the seam.
    Shelltuck Stitches 
    Shelltuck stitches give an attractive appearance of 
    shells along the curve of a collar. This stitch 
    pattern can be used for edging the neckline or 
    sleeves of dresses and blouses. 
    a
    aa aSelect . 
    b
    bb
    bIncrease the upper thread tension for an 
    attractive scallop finish to the shelltuck 
    stitches (see page 50). 
    c
    cc cTo make rows of shell tuck stitches, fold the 
    fabric in half along the bias. 
    d
    dd dAttach presser foot  “J” . Set the needle drop 
    point slightly off the edge of the fabric, and 
    start sewing.
    a Needle drop position 
    e
    ee eUnfold the fabric, and iron the tucks to one 
    side.
    Memo
    Placing a lightweight tear away stabilizer 
    beneath the stitching area will improve the 
    stitch placement along the edge of the appli-
    qu
    é fabric.
    Memo
    For details on each stitch, refer to the 
    “STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this 
    manual.
    Memo
    If the upper thread tension is too weak, the 
    shelltuck stitches will not scallop. 
    Memo
    Use a thin fabric.
    Memo
    To make shell tucks at the edge of a collar or 
    neckline, follow the pattern ’s instructions and 
    then use this stitch to make a decorative finish 
    on the collar or neckline.
    a 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    92
    Scallop Stitches 
    This wave-shaped satin stitch is called the scallop 
    stitch. Use this stitch to decorate the edges of 
    blouse collars and handkerchiefs or use it as a hem 
    accent. 
    a
    aa aSelect .
    b
    bb
    bAttach presser foot “ N”. Sew scallop 
    stitches along the edge of the fabric.
    * Do not sew directly on the edge of the fabric.
    c
    cc
    cTrim along the seam, making sure not to cut 
    the stitches.
    Top Stitching
    For a decorative look called “Crazy Quilting”, the 
    following stitches can be sewn on top of a pressed 
    seam allowance. 
    a
    aa aSelect a straight stitch and attach presser 
    foot  “J” .
    b
    bb bWith the right sides facing each other, sew 
    two pieces of fabric together, and then 
    press open the seam allowance.
    a Straight stitch 
    b Seam margins 
    c 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) 
    d Wrong side 
    c
    cc cSelect a stitch for top stitching.
      
    d
    dd
    dPlace the fabric right side up in the 
    machine, and center the presser foot over 
    the seam when sewing.
    a Right side of fabric 
    Memo
    A temporary spray adhesive may be neces-
    sary for lightweight fabrics. Test sew 
    the fabric before sewing a project. 
    Memo
    For details on each stitch, refer to the 
    “STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this 
    manual.
    Memo
    Use a seam sealant to secure the edges of the 
    scallop stitches.
    c
    b
    a
    d
    d 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    Utility Stitches
    93
    3
    Smocking Stitches 
    Use smocking stitches for decorative sewing on 
    clothes, etc. 
    a
    aa aSelect a straight stitch and attach presser 
    foot  “J” .
    b
    bb bSet the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 
    3/16 inch) and loosen the upper thread 
    tension to approximately 2.0 (See pages 49 
    through 50).
    c
    cc cPull the bobbin and upper threads out by 
    50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches).
    d
    dd dSew the seams, leaving approximately 
    10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch) between the 
    seams, then trim excess thread, leaving 
    50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches). 
    a Approximately 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch) 
    e
    ee ePull the bobbin threads to obtain the 
    desired amount of gather, and then smooth 
    the gathers by ironing them.
    f
    ff fSelect  or .
    g
    gg
    gSew the spaces between the straight seams. 
    h
    hh
    hPull out the straight stitch threads.
    Fagoting 
    When there is a space between two fabrics with 
    thread sewn over the space to join the fabrics 
    together, it is called fagoting. Use this stitch when 
    sewing blouses or children’s clothes.
    a
    aa aBaste two pieces of fabric onto thin paper, 
    leaving a space of 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) 
    between the fabrics.
    a 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) 
    b Paper 
    c Basting stitches 
    b
    bb bSelect  or . 
    Memo
    For details on each stitch, refer to the 
    “ STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this 
    manual.
    a
    Memo
    For details on each stitch, refer to the 
    “ STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this 
    manual.
    J
    ba
    c 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    94
    c
    cc cAttach presser foot “ J”. Align the center of 
    the presser foot with the middle of the 
    space between the fabrics and begin 
    sewing. 
    a Basting stitches 
    d
    dd dWhen sewing is finished, gently tear the 
    paper away. 
    Tape or Elastic Attaching 
    a
    aa aSelect a straight stitch and attach presser 
    foot  “J” . 
    b
    bb bSet the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 
    3/16 inch), and loosen the upper thread 
    tension to 2.0 (See pages 49 through 50).
    c
    cc cSew two rows of straight stitches on the 
    right side of the fabric, then pull the bobbin 
    thread to create the necessary gather.
    d
    dd dPlace the tape over the gather, and hold it 
    in place with basting pins.
    a Tape 
    e
    ee eSelect  or .
    f
    ff
    fSew over the tape (or elastic).
    g
    gg
    gPull out the straight stitch threads.
    Memo
    Use a thick thread.
    Memo
    Be sure that neither automatic reinforcement 
     nor automatic thread cutting   is 
    selected.
    Memo
    Before sewing the straight stitch, rotate the 
    handwheel and pull up the bobbin thread. 
    Holding the top and bobbin thread, pull a 
    length of thread out from the rear of the 
    machine. (Be sure that the presser foot is 
    raised.)
    a
    Memo
    For details on each stitch, refer to the 
    “ STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this 
    manual.
     CAUTION
    Be sure the needle does not strike a basting pin, or 
    any other objects, during sewing. The thread 
    could tangle or the needle could break, causing 
    injury. 
    a 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    Utility Stitches
    95
    3
    Heirloom 
    Hemstitching (1) (Daisy Stitch) 
    Use for sewing tablecloths, decorative hems, and 
    decorative stitching on shirt fronts. 
    a
    aa aInsert a type 130/705H, size 100/16 Wing 
    needle. 
    b
    bb bSelect a stitch and attach presser foot “ N”.
    * Select any stitch between 3-01 and 3-25.
    c
    cc
    cStart sewing.
    Example: Illustration of finished product
    Hemstitching (2) (Drawn Work (1))
    a
    aa
    aPull out several threads from one area on a 
    piece of fabric to open the area. 
    * Pull out 5 or 6 threads to leave a 3 mm 
    (approx. 1/8 inch) area open.
    b
    bb bSelect . 
    c
    cc
    cAttach presser foot  “N ”. With the right side 
    of the fabric facing up, sew one edge of the 
    open area.
    Memo
    Use a light to medium weight homespun fabric 
    with a little stiffness. 
     CAUTION
    
    The  “Automatic Threading ” button cannot be 
    used. Thread the wing needle by hand, from 
    front to back. Refer to  “Threading Manually” 
    on page 31. Using the  “Automatic Threading” 
    button may result in damage to the machine. 
     A more attractive finish can be obtained if you 
    use a “ 130/705H Wing ” needle when sewing 
    these patterns. If using a wing needle and the 
    stitch width has been set manually, check that 
    the needle will not touch the presser foot by 
    carefully rotating the handwheel before 
    starting sewing. 
    Memo
     For details on each stitch, refer to the 
    “STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of 
    this manual.
    Memo
    Loosely woven fabrics work best for this. 
    Memo
    For details on each stitch, refer to the 
    “ STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this 
    manual.
    N 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    96
    d
    dd dPress   to create a mirror image of the 
    stitch.
    e
    ee eSew the opposite side to keep the stitch 
    symmetrical.
     Hemstitching (3) (Drawn Work (2))
    a
    aa aPull out several threads from both sides of 
    the 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) area which 
    are not yet open. 
    * Pull out four threads, leave five threads, and then 
    pull out four threads. The width of five threads is 
    approximately 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) or less. 
    a Approx. 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) or less 
    b Four threads (pull out) 
    c Five threads (leave) 
    b
    bb bSelect . 
    c
    cc
    cSew the decorative stitch in the center of 
    the five threads created above.
    N
    Memo
    For details on each stitch, refer to the 
    “ STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this 
    manual.
    Memo
    A wing needle can be used for Hemstitching 
    (3).
    a
    b
    bc
    N 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    Utility Stitches
    97
    3
    One-step Buttonholes 
    With one-step buttonholes, you can make buttonholes appropriate to the size of your button.
    StitchStitch namePresser footApplications
    Stitch width 
    [mm (inch.)]Stitch length  [mm (inch.)]Tw i n  
    needle
    Auto.ManualAuto.Manual
    Narrow rounded 
    buttonhole Buttonhole on light to medium 
    weight fabrics
    5.0
    (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0
    (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Wide round ended 
    buttonhole Buttonholes with extra space for 
    larger buttons
    5.5
    (7/32) 3.5 - 5.5
    (1/8 - 7/32) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Tapered round 
    ended buttonhole Reinforced waist tapered 
    buttonholes
    5.0
    (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0
    (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Round ended 
    buttonhole Buttonholes with vertical bar 
    tack in heavyweight fabrics
    5.0
    (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0
    (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Round ended 
    buttonhole Buttonholes with bar tack
    5.0
    (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0
    (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Round double ended 
    buttonhole Buttonholes for fine, medium to 
    heavyweight fabrics
    5.0
    (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0
    (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Narrow squared 
    buttonhole Buttonholes for light to medium 
    weight fabrics
    5.0
    (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0
    (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Wide squared 
    buttonhole Buttonholes with extra space for 
    larger decorative buttons
    5.5
    (7/32) 3.5 - 5.5
    (1/8 - 7/32) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Squared buttonhole Heavy-duty buttonholes with 
    vertical bar tacks5.0
    (7/32) 3.0 - 5.0
    (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4
    (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Stretch buttonhole Buttonholes for stretch or woven 
    fabrics6.0
    (15/ 64) 3.0 - 6.0
    (1/8 - 15/64) 1.0
    (1/16) 0.5 - 2.0
    (1/32 - 1/16) NO
    Heirloom buttonhole Buttonholes for heirloom and 
    stretch fabrics6.0
    (15/
    64) 3.0 - 6.0
    (1/8 - 15/64) 1.5
    (1/16) 1.0 - 3.0
    (1/1 - 1/8) NO
    Bound buttonhole The first step in making bound 
    buttonholes5.0
    (3/16) 0.0 - 6.0
    (0 - 15/64) 2.0
    (1/16) 0.2 - 4.0
    (1/64 - 3/16) NO
    Keyhole buttonhole Buttonholes in heavyweight or 
    thick fabrics for larger flat 
    buttons7.0
    (1/4) 3.0 - 7.0
    (1/8 - 1/4) 0.5
    (1/32) 0.3 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Tapered keyhole 
    buttonhole Buttonholes in medium to heavy 
    weight fabrics for larger flat 
    buttons7.0
    (1/4) 3.0 - 7.0
    (1/8 - 1/4) 0.5
    (1/32) 0.3 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO
    Keyhole buttonhole Buttonholes with vertical bar 
    tack for reinforcement in 
    heavyweight or thick fabrics7.0
    (1/4) 3.0 - 7.0
    (1/8 - 1/4) 0.5
    (1/32) 0.3 - 1.0
    (1/64 - 1/16) NO 
    						
    							SEWING THE STITCHES
    98
    One-step buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
    aReinforcement stitching
    a
    aa aSelect a buttonhole stitch, and attach 
    buttonhole foot  “A” .
    b
    bb bMark the position and length of the 
    buttonhole on the fabric.
    c
    cc cPull out the button holder plate on the 
    presser foot, and insert the button that will 
    be put through the buttonhole. Then tighten 
    the button holder plate around the button. 
    a Button holder plate 
    a
    a
    a
    a
    Memo
    The maximum buttonhole length is about 
    28 mm (approx. 1-1/16 inches) (diameter + 
    thickness of the button).
    Memo
    The size of the buttonhole is decided by the 
    button holder plate holding the button.
    a 
    						
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