Land Rover Series Operation Part 1 2 Rover Manual

							APRIL 195076OIL PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT.
The oil pressure warning light on the instrument panel glows when, for any
reason, the engine oil pressure drops below 10 to 12 lb. per sq. in. (0,7 to
0,8 Kg./cm2.). It will, therefore, light up when the engine is stationary and
will go out when the engine has started and the oil pressure has built up to
exceed this figure. Should the warning, light appear at any time during
normal vehicle operation, the engine must be stopped immediately and the
cause ascertained; usually it will be due to low oil level in the sump.
Should the warning lamp bulb burn out, it should be replaced as soon as
possible to safeguard the engine. 
						

							APRIL 195077IN CASE OF TROUBLE
LOCATION AND REMEDY OF FAULTS
Although every precaution is taken to eliminate all possible causes of
trouble, failure may
occasionally develop through
lack of attention to the
equipment, or damage to the
wiring. The following pages
set out the recommended
procedure for a systematic
examination to locate and
remedy the causes of some of
the more probable faults
which may occur during the
life of the vehicle.
All the checks listed can be readily carried out without special equipment; if
the fault is not located in this way, consult your local Rover agent who will
be able to investigate the defect more closely.
ENGINE FAILS TO START
1. Check that the ignition is switched ON.
2. Check visually that there is sufficient petrol in the tank. (Page 45).
3. Check that the cold start control is set correctly for starting. (Page 15).
(i)   Engine HOT – Control right IN. Accelerator DEPRESSED.
(ii)  Engine COLD – control right OUT. Foot clear of accelerator.
4. Check that the engine is being turned at an adequate speed by the
starter motor; this speed will be recognised after some experience with
the vehicle.
If the  cranking speed is too low:-
(i)   Check the battery connections for tightness and cleanliness.
(ii)  Check the state of charge of the battery by switching on  the
headlamps and pressing the starter button; if the headlamps go out or
very dim when the starter is operated, the battery requires recharging
from an independent electrical supply.
It should be possible to start the engine by cranking with the starting
handle.“Failure may develop through
damage to the wiring” 
						

							APRIL 1950785. Remove the cable from each sparking plug terminal in turn and hold it
so that the end is about ¼ in. (7 mm.) away from some metal part of the
chassis, while the engine is turned over; if sparks jump the gap
regularly, the coil and distributor are functioning correctly.
(i) If the sparks are strong and regular, remove and clean the sparking
plugs and re-set the electrode gaps to .023-.026 in. (0,60-0,65
mm.).
(ii) If the sparks, are NOT regular:-
(a)  Check that the distributor rotor is in position.
(b)  Check that the L.T. connections on the coil and distributor are
clean and tight.
(c)  Check that the distributor points are:-
1.  Clean.
2.  Opening and closing correctly.
3.  Correctly set when open – gap .012 in. (0,30 mm.). See
Page 68.
(d)  Check that current is present at the S.W. terminal on the coil,
by disconnecting the wire at the coil end and touching it against
the S.W. terminal, with the ignition switch “ON” and the
distributor contact-breaker points closed. If sparks occur, low
tension current is flowing through the coil correctly; if there is NO
SPARK, either the coil or the low tension wiring is defective and
your Agent should be consulted.
(iii) If the sparks are weak and in addition there is a flashing at the
distributor contact breaker points, a faulty distributor condenser is
indicated.
(iv) If the sparks are present on some leads, but not on others, check
the distributor cap for cracks and the plug leads for faulty
insulation.
6. Disconnect the petrol pipe from the carburettor and check that petrol is
delivered to the carburettor when the ignition is switched “ON.” If
petrol is not delivered from the pipe.-
(i) Check that the pump “ticks” when the ignition is ON with the pipe
still disconnected. If not, the fault is probably in the pump wiring.
(Page 46).
(ii) Check that the petrol shut-off tap on the sediment bowl is “ON.”
(Page 46).
(iii) Check that the petrol pipes and filters are clear. (Pages 44-47).
(iv) Check that there are no air leaks in the suction line to the pump, in
particular at the sediment bowl. (Page 46). 
						

							APRIL 1950797. Check that the manifold drain pipe (below the carburettor) is not
blocked, by depressing the accelerator pedal fully two or three times
and noting that a few drops of petrol run out of the drain pipe. If not,
remove and clean the pipe.
ENGINE STARTS BUT SOON STOPS.
1. Check that the controls are set correctly. (Page 15).
2. Check the petrol feed to the carburettor, by disconnecting the pipe from
the carburettor and noting the petrol flow with the ignition switched
“ON.”
If there is little or no flow:-
(i) Check the petrol level in. the tank.
(ii) Check that the air vent in the filler cap is clear.
(iii) Check the petrol pump for correct operation. (Page 46).
(iv) Check that the petrol filters are clear. (Pages 44 47).
(v) Check that the petrol pipes are clear. (Pages 44-47).
3. Check that the carburettor jets are clear, in the following order.
(Page 51).
(i) Starter petrol jet
(ii) Main Jet.
(iii) Pilot jet.
4. Check for a fault in the ignition circuit by connecting a wire between
the “A” connection on the voltage regulator box and the “SW”
connection on the coil, thus bypassing the ignition switch. At the same
time, the wire from the ignition switch must be disconnected from the
coil.
5. Remove the carburettor top cover and check that there is no water in
the float chamber. 
						

							APRIL 195080ENGINE MISFIRES
Engine running on less than four cylinders, either intermittently or
continually.
1. Stop the engine and endeavour to re-start with the starter motor to
check the state of the battery and connections. If the battery is in a low
state of charge, it will need recharging from an independent electrical
supply, and the charging circuit should be checked as directed on Pages
81-82.
2. Remove the lead from each sparking plug in turn and check:-
(i) By holding the end of the lead about ¼ in. (7 mm.) away from
a metal part of the engine with the engine running. Sparks
should jump the gap regularly.
If NO SPARK is present on one or more cylinders:-
(a) Check for moisture on the H.T. leads or distributor.
(b) Check, clean and re-set the distributor contact-breaker points
to .012 in. (0,30 mm.) as necessary. (Page 68).
(c) Check the distributor cap for cracks and the plug leads for
faulty insulation.
If the SPARK is IRREGULAR on all cylinders:-
(a) Check for moisture as in (i) (a).
(b) Check the distributor points as in (i) (b).
(c) Check the cap and leads as in (i) (c).
(d) Check the L.T. connections for tightness and cleanliness.
(e) Check for flashing or “blueing” of the contact-breaker points.
If present, the distributor condenser should be replaced.
(f) Check for a fault in the ignition circuit by connecting a wire
between the “A” connection on the voltage regulator box and
the “SW” connection on the coil, thus bypassing the ignition
switch. At the same time, the wire from the ignition switch
must be disconnected from the coil.
(ii) For any audible alteration in the running of the engine, as each
lead is removed. No alteration will indicate that the sparking
plug in question is at fault:-
(a) Remove and clean the plug; re-set the gap to .023--.026 in.
(0,60-0,65 mm.) as necessary.
(b) If still faulty, fit a new sparking plug. 
						

							APRIL 1950813. If the “missing” is accompanied by “spitting back” through the
carburettor, a valve may be sticking. This can often be cured by slowly
dropping oil or upper cylinder lubricant into the carburettor intake,
while the engine is running.
LACK OF ENGINE POWER.
1. Check that the carburettor throttle is opening fully.
2. Check that the brakes are not binding and that the tyre pressures are
correct. (Page 57).
3. Check that the carburettor jets are not blocked (in the following order).
See Page 51:-
(i) Main jet.
(ii) Pump jet.
(iii) Economy jet.
4. Check that the carburettor accelerator pump it opening correctly by
depressing the accelerator pedal two or three times with the engine
stationary and noting that there is a petrol discharge from the manifold
drain pipe.
5. Check the ignition timing. (Page 38).
6. Check tappet adjustment. (Page 38).
7. If items 1-6 are satisfactory, it is probable that the engine needs
decarbonising and your Rover agent should be consulted.
CHARGING CIRCUIT.
1. Battery in Low State of Charge.
(a) This state will be shown by lack of power when starting, poor light
from the lamps and hydrometer readings below 1.200, and may be
due to the dynamo either not charging or giving low or intermittent
output. Check the ammeter reading when the vehicle is running
steadily in top gear with no lights in use; a definite steady charge
should be indicated. The ignition warning light will not go out if
the dynamo fails to charge, or will flicker on and off in the event of
intermittent output.
(b) Examine the charging and field circuit wiring, tightening any loose
connections, or replacing broken cables. Pay particular attention to
the battery connections.
(b) Examine the dynamo driving belt, take up any undue slackness by
turning the dynamo on its mounting. (See Page 42).
(c) If the cause of the trouble is not  apparent, have the equipment
examined by a Lucas Service Depot or Agent. 
						

							APRIL 1950822. Battery Overcharged.
This will be indicated by burnt-out bulbs, very frequent need for
topping-up of battery and high hydrometer readings. Check the
ammeter reading when the vehicle is running steadily – with a fully
charged battery and no lights or accessories in use, the charge reading
should be of the order of only 3-4 amperes. If the ammeter reading is in
excess of this value, it is advisable to have the regulator setting tested
and adjusted if necessary by a Service Depot or Agent.
STARTER MOTOR
1. Starter Motor Lacks Power or Fails to Turn Engine.
(a) See if the engine can be turned over by hand. If not, the cause of the
stiffness of the engine must be located and remedied.
(b) If the engine can be turned by hand, first check that the trouble is not
due to a discharged battery.
(c) Examine the connections to battery, starter and starter switch, making
sure that they are tight and that the cables connecting these units are not
damaged.
(d) It is all possible that the starter pinion may have so jammed in mesh
with the flywheel, although this is by no means a common occurrence.
To disengage the pinion, rotate the squared end of the starter shaft by
means of a spanner in the opposite direction to normal rotation.
2. Starter Operates, but Does Not Crank Engine.
This fault will occur if the pinion of the starter drive is not allowed to
move along the screwed sleeve into engagement with the flywheel, due
to dirt having collected on the screwed sleeve. Clean the sleeve
carefully with paraffin. 
						

							APRIL 1950833. Starter Pinion Will Not Disengage from Flywheel When Engine is
Running.
Stop the engine, and see if the starter pinion is jammed in mesh with
the flywheel, releasing it if necessary by rotation of the squared end of
the starter shaft in the opposite direction to normal rotation. If the
pinion persists in sticking in mesh, have the equipment examined at a
Service Depot. Serious damage may result to the starter if it is driven
by the flywheel.
LIGHTING CIRCUITS.
1. Lamps Give Insufficient Illumination.
(a) Test the state of charge of the battery, recharging it if necessary
either by a long period of day-time running or from an independent
electrical supply.
(b) Check the setting of the lamps, and that the headlamp bulbs are in
focus. (See Page 72).
(c) If the bulbs are discoloured as a result of long service, they should
be replaced. On lamps in which the reflector surface is accessible,
see that it is clean.
2. Lamps Light When Switched On, but Gradually Fade Out.
As para. 1.(a).
3. Brilliance Varies with Speed of Vehicle.
(a) As, para. 1. (a)
(b) Examine the battery connections, making sure that they are tight, and
replace faulty Cables.
4. Lights Flicker.
Examine the circuits of the lamps for loose connections.
5. Failure of Lights.
(a) As para 1. (a).
(b) Examine the wiring for a loose or broken connection, and remedy. 
						

							APRIL 195084STANDARD BODY FITTINGS.
SEATS. Each front seat cushion is fitted with two rubber plugs which locate
in holes in the seat-box, thus making it readily detachable, but at the same
time ensuring that it will not move when in use.
DOORS. The doors may be removed or replaced as shown in Fig. 35, with
the sidescreen detached and the door panel swung forward parallel with the
front wing.Fig. 35.  Door fitting.
SIDESCREENS. The method of fitting the sidescreens is shown in Fig. 36;
secure with nuts and washers on the fixing pins to prevent rattles. 
						

							APRIL 195085Fig. 36.  Sidescreen fitting
HOODS. Two types of hood are available for the Land-Rover, known as the
“drivers” pattern (Fig. 43) which covers the front seat only and the “full-
length” which encloses the complete vehicle (Fig. 37); a detachable rear
curtain is supplied with the “drivers” type. In conjunction with the doors
and sidescreens, complete all-weather protection is thereby ensured.
FITTING THE FULL-LENGTH HOOD. Select the two U-shaped tubular
hood sticks. Slacken off the thumbscrews (C) below the sockets inside the
rear corners of the body, insert the rear hood-stick (B) in the sockets and
tighten the screws. Fit the front hood-stick (A) in a similar manner. (Fig.
39).
Next select the four thin cranked tubular stays which are fitted between the
windscreen and hood-sticks. The two shorter stays (D) with thumbscrews at
one end should be fitted between the windscreen and front hood-stick so
that the cranks throw the stays outwards; at each end the slot slips down
under the thumbscrew on the bracket. Fit the longer stays (E) in a similar
way between the front and rear hood-sticks and tighten the four
thumbscrews (F). (Fig. 39).