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Land Rover Series Operation Part 1 2 Rover Manual

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    							APRIL 195066and the battery should be sent to a Lucas Service Depot or Agent for
    overhaul.
    NOTE:- If the vehicle is to be left in the open in very cold weather, care
    must be taken to ensure that the battery is in a good state of charge,
    otherwise there is danger of the electrolyte freezing and consequent damage
    to the battery.
    DYNAMO. The dynamo is of the compensated voltage type and operates in
    conjunction with the regulator unit which is housed along with the cut-out
    in the control box.
    The regulator causes the dynamo to give an output which varies according
    to the load on the battery and its state of charge. When the battery is
    discharged, the dynamo gives a high output so that the battery receives a
    quick recharge which brings it back to its normal state in the minimum
    possible time.
    On the other hand, if the battery is fully charged,. the dynamo is arranged to
    give only a trickle charge which is sufficient to keep it in good condition
    without any possibility of causing damage to the battery by overcharging.
    The regulator also causes the dynamo to give a controlled boosting charge
    at the beginning of a run which quickly restores to the battery the energy
    taken from it when starting. After about 30 minutes running, the output of
    the dynamo falls to a steady rate, best suited to the particular state of charge
    of the battery.
    At about every 18,000 miles (30.000 Km.) or 500 hours, unscrew the
    lubricator at the end of the dynamo, lift out the felt pad and spring and
    about half fill the lubricator with high melting-point grease. Replace the
    spring and felt pad.
    When the vehicle is under-going a general overhaul, say after about 50,000
    miles (80.000 Km.), it is advisable to have the dynamo checked for brush or
    commutator wear by a Lucas Service Depot or Agent.
    Occasionally inspect the dynamo driving belt and adjust if necessary to take
    up any undue slackness by turning the dynamo on its mounting (see FAN
    BELT). Care should be taken to avoid over-tightening the belt and to see
    that the machine is properly aligned, otherwise undue strain will be thrown
    on the dynamo bearings
    Ammeter Readings.
    When noting ammeter readings, it must be remembered that during daytime
    running when the battery is in good condition, the dynamo gives a trickle
    charge, so that the charge reading will seldom be more than three or four
    amperes. 
    						
    							APRIL 195067A discharge reading may be given immediately after switching on the
    headlamps. This usually happens after a long run, when the voltage of the
    battery is high. After a short time, the battery voltage will fall, and the
    regulator will respond, causing the dynamo output to balance the load.
    When starting from cold, the charging current will rise until it reaches a
    steady maximum at a speed of say, 20 m.p.h. (35 k.p.h.) after which it will
    remain fairly high for about 10 .minutes and then fall to a steady charge
    which is most suitable for the particular state of charge of the battery.
    It will be noticed from the ammeter readings that the dynamo does not
    charge at very low engine speeds. This is because it is not rotating fast
    enough to generate sufficient energy to charge the battery. The cut-out,
    which is an automatic switch connected between the dynamo and the
    battery, allows the flow of current from the dynamo, to the battery only. It
    closes when the dynamo is running fast enough to charge the battery and
    opens when the speed is low, or the engine is stationary, thus preventing
    current flowing from the battery through the dynamo windings.
    CONTROL BOX.
    This unit is mounted on the scuttle and houses the cut-out and dynamo
    voltage regulator.
    The cut-out and regulator are accurately set before leaving the works and
    they must not be tampered with. The cover protecting them is sealed.
    FUSE.
    The single fuse is located, together with a spare, under a separate cover
    alongside the control box on the scuttle. It protects the horn, windscreen
    wiper, fuel tank level unit and the stop lights.
    A blown fuse is indicated by the failure of all the units protected by it, and
    is confirmed by examination of the fuse, which can easily be withdrawn
    from the spring clips in which it fits. If it has blown, the broken ends of the
    wire will be visible inside the glass tube.
    Before replacing, a blown fuse, inspect the
    wiring of the units, that have failed for evidence
    of a short circuit or other fault which may have
    caused the fuse to blow and remedy the cause
    of  the trouble first.
    It is important to use replacement fuses of the
    correct value; the fusing value is marked on a
    coloured paper slip inside the glass tube of the fuse.
    If  the new fuse blows immediately and the cause of the trouble cannot be
    found, have the equipment examined at a Lucas Service Depot.Fig. 29.  Blown fuse. 
    						
    							APRIL 195068STARTER.
    When starting, observe the following points:-
    1. See that the controls are properly set. (See Page 15).
    2. Operate the starter switch firmly and release it as soon as the engine
    fires.
    3. Do not operate the starter when the engine is running. If the engine will
    not fire at once, allow it to come to rest before operating the switch
    again. (See Page 16).
    4. Do not run the battery down by keeping the starter on when the engine
    will not start.
    In the event of the starter pinion becoming jammed in mesh with the
    flywheel, it can usually, be freed by turning the starter armature by means
    of a spanner applied to the shaft extension at the commutator end. This is
    accessible by pulling off the small cap which is secured by two screws.
    If any difficulty is experienced with the starter not meshing correctly with
    the flywheel, it is probable that the presence of dirt on the starter drive is
    preventing the free movement of the pinion on its sleeve and the sleeve and
    pinion should be washed with paraffin. Alternatively, the drive may have
    been damaged owing to misuse.
    As in the case of the dynamo, the starter brush gear and commutator will
    not normally require attention by the owner, but should be checked by a
    Lucas Service Depot or Agent when the car is undergoing a general
    overhaul.
    COIL.
    The coil requires no Attention beyond keeping its exterior clean,
    particularly between the terminals, and occasionally checking that the
    terminal connections are quite tight.
    DISTRIBUTOR.
    The contact breaker clearance should be checked and adjusted in the
    following manner:- Remove the moulded distributor cap and turn over the
    engine by hand until the contacts in the distributor are fully opened. Check
    the gap with the gauge on the screwdriver supplied in the tool kit. This
    gauge has a thickness of .012 in. (0,30 mm.) and if the setting is correct the
    gauge should be a sliding fit. If the gap varies appreciably from the gauge
    the contact breaker must be adjusted. To adjust, keep the engine in position
    to give the maximum opening of the contacts and slacken the two screws
    which secure the contact plate. Move the plate until the gap is set to the
    thickness of the gauge and then fully tighten the locking screws. 
    						
    							APRIL 195069Fig. 30.  Contact Breaker
    A – Condenser
    B – Octane selector
    C – Cam
    D – Contact breaker pivotE – Diaphragm housing
    F – Contacts
    G – Lubricator
    H – Screws securing contact plate
    The distributor should be thoroughly cleaned at intervals.
    Wipe the inside and the outside of the moulded distributor cap with a soft,
    dry cloth, paying particular attention to the space between the metal
    electrodes. See that the small carbon brush on the inside of the moulding
    works freely in its holder.
    Examine the contact breaker. The contacts must be free from grease or oil.
    If they are burned or blackened, clean themFig. 31.  Cleaning contacts, with moving contact removed 
    						
    							APRIL 195070with a fine carborundum stone or with very fine emery cloth. Afterwards
    wipe away any trace of dirt or metal dust with a petrol-moistened cloth.
    Cleaning of the contacts is made easier if the contact breaker lever carrying
    the moving contact is removed. To do this, slacken the nut on the terminal
    post and lift off the end of the contact breaker spring which is slotted to
    facilitate removal.. The lever can then be lifted off its pivot pin. After
    cleaning and replacing, check the contact breaker setting.
    If the contacts are badly burned, they should be replaced. Replacement
    contacts must only be fitted in pairs. To remove the moving contact, follow
    the procedure outlined in the previous paragraph. To remove the plate
    carrying the fixed contact take out the two screws complete with spring and
    plain washers. Fit the replacement contacts by reversing these instructions
    and set the contact breaker gap to .012 in., (0,30 mm.) by means, of the
    gauge supplied in the tool kit.
    HIGH TENSION CABLES. The high tension cables are those connecting
    the coil to the distributor and the distributor to the sparking plugs. When
    these cables show signs of perishing or cracking they must be replaced by 7
    mm. rubber-covered ignition cable.
    The method of connecting H.T. cable to the coil is to thread the knurled
    moulded nut over the cable, bare the end of the cable for about 1 in. (7
    mm.), thread the wire through the washer removed from the end of the
    original cable and bend back the wire strands. Screw the nut into its
    terminal.Fig. 32.  Fitting H.T. cable to ignition coil.A – H.T. cable
    B – Washer
    C – Cable strands
    D – Moulded terminal 
    						
    							APRIL 195071Fig. 33.  Connecting H.T. cable to distributor
    A – Carbon brushB – Screws securing cable
    To connect cables to the distributor, unscrew the pointed fixing screws on
    the inside of the moulding and push the cables, which should not be bared
    but cut off flush to the required length, well home into their respective
    terminals and tighten the fixing screws. The screw securing the centre cable
    is accessible when the carbon brush is removed.
    REPLACEMENT BULBS. Instructions for replacing most of the bulbs
    listed here are given in the following pages; in other cases your dealer will
    be able to help you.
    LUCASVOLTWATTHeadlamps
    Vehicles numbered prior to 06112001No. 1711236/36Double filament
    (straight dip).
    Vehicles numbered 06112001 1 onwards:-
    Home models, R.H headlampNo. 1621236Single filament.
    Home models, L.H. headlampNo. 3001236/36Double filament.
    (dip to left).
    R.H.D. Export modelsNo. 3001236/36Double filament.
    (dip to left).
    L.H.D. Export modelsNo. 3011236/36Double filament.
    (dip to right).
    SidelampNo. 207126Single pole
    Stop and tail lampsNo. 207126Single pole
    Instrument panel lightsNo. 207126Single pole
    Ignition and mixture control warning lightsNo. 9702.55M.E.S.
    Oil pressure warning light—122.4M.E.S. 
    						
    							APRIL 195072HEADLAMPS.
    (Vehicles numbered prior to 06112001).
    The setting of the headlamp should be checked by placing the vehicle in
    front of a blank wall at the greatest possible distance, taking care that the
    surface on which the vehicle is standing is not sloping relative to the wall.
    The lamps are fitted with dual-filament bulbs and must be set so that the
    main beams of light are parallel with the road and with each other.    If
    adjustment is necessary, slacken the fixing nut at the top of the lamp and
    move the lamp on its adjustable mounting to the required position. Finally,
    tighten the locking nut. The mounting is accessible when the bonnet top
    panel is raised.
    To enable the best light to be obtained from the headlamps the bulb
    filaments must be as near as possible to the focal points of the reflectors. If
    a bulb is out of focus, the lamps will have a poor range and will cause
    dazzle to approaching traffic. Before lamps leave the Works, the bulbs are
    focussed to give the best results and provided that Lucas Genuine Spare
    Bulbs are fitted as replacements, it should not be necessary to alter the
    setting. If, however, an ordinary bulb has to be fitted, it may be necessary to
    re-focus by slackening the screw on the clamping clip and moving the bulb
    backwards and forwards until the best lighting is obtained. When focussing,
    it is an advantage to cover one lamp while testing the other. If the lamp does
    not give a uniform long range beam without a dark centre, the bulb needs
    adjusting. Tighten the clamping clip after the best position for the bulb has
    been found.
    To remove the lamp front, slacken the fixing screw at the top of the lamp
    and swing it upwards. Remove the front from the top of the lamp first. The
    reflector is secured to the lamp body  by means of a rubber bead and can be
    withdrawn when this is removed. When replacing, the projection on the
    reflector rim must be fitted into the location at the bottom of the lamp body
    and the reflector must be secured by refitting the rubber bead, the thicker lip
    of which must be located between the reflector rim and the lamp body.
    When refitting the lamp front, locate the bottom of the rim first, then press
    at the top and secure by means of the fixing screw. 
    						
    							APRIL 195073HEADLAMPS. (Vehicles numbered 06112001 onwards). To remove the
    light unit for bulb replacement, first slacken the securing screw and lift off
    the rim. Remove the dust-excluding rubber, when three spring-loaded
    adjustment screws will be visible. Press in the light unit against the tension
    of the screw springs and turn it in an anti-clockwise direction until the heads
    of the screws can be disengaged through the slotted holes in the light unit
    rim. Twist the back shell in an anti-clockwise direction and pull it off; the
    bulb can then be removed.Fig. 34.  Headlamp bulb replacement.A – Light unit.
    B – Vertical setting adjusting screw.
    C – Back shell.D – Horizontal setting adjusting screw.
    E – Bulb holder.
    F – Dust excluding rubberFit the replacement bulb in the holder, taking care to locate it correctly and
    replace the back shell. Position the light unit so that the heads of the
    adjusting screws protrude through the slotted holes in the flange, press the
    unit in and turn in a clockwise direction. Replace the dust excluder and
    front rim.
    The headlamps should be set so that the main driving beams are parallel
    with the road surface. If adjustment is required, remove the rim as described
    above. The vertical setting may then be made by turning the screw at the top
    of the lamp and horizontal adjustment can be altered by the screw at each
    side of the light unit.
    SIDE LAMPS. Slacken the screw at the top of the lamp locating it in the
    scuttle panel and turn the lamp in a clockwise direction until the tongue at
    the bottom is disengaged from the scuttle. The lamp front and reflector can
    then be withdrawn.
    The bulb is accessible when the holder which is clipped to the back of the
    reflector is turned to the left and pulled off. 
    						
    							APRIL 195074When refitting, the front and reflector, locate the tongue on the lamp in the
    slot in the scuttle and turn the lamp in an anti-clockwise direction.  Finally
    secure by means of the locating screw.
    STOP AND TAIL LAMPS. To effect bulb replacement, slacken the
    securing screw and swing open the cover; the bulbs are then accessible in
    the lamp body.
    CLEANING LAMP REFLECTORS. The reflectors are protected by    a
    transparent and colourless covering which enables any accidental finger
    marks to be removed with chamois leather or a soft cloth without affecting
    the surface of the reflector; metal polish must not be used           for cleaning
    reflectors.
    HORN. All horns before being passed out of the Works are adjusted to give
    their best performance and will give a long period of service without any
    attention; no subsequent adjustment is required.
    If the horn fails or becomes uncertain in its
    action, it does not follow that the horn has
    broken down. First ascertain that the trouble is
    not due to some outside sources e.g., a loose
    connection, short circuit in the wiring of the
    horn, discharged battery or blown fuse. If the
    fuse has blown, examine the wiring for the fault
    and then replace the fuse.
    It is also possible that the performance of a horn
    may be upset by the fixing bolt working loose,
    or by some component near the horn being
    loose. If after carrying out the above
    examination the trouble is not rectified, do not
    attempt to dismantle the horn, but return it to a
    Lucas Service Depot or Agent.
    WINDSCREEN WIPER. To start the wiper, pull out the handle to
    disengage it from the switch. Then move the switch lever to the left to the
    on position.“If the horn becomes
    uncertain in its
    action.” 
    						
    							APRIL 195075To stop the unit, move the switch downwards to the off position, pull out
    the handle and turn the end into the top of the switch control.
    No adjustment or lubrication is necessary, as the gears are fully lubricated
    before leaving the Works.
    To remove the arm and blade assembly, slacken the fixing nut and tap
    sharply to release the collet which clamps the arm on to the spindle. Then
    remove the complete assembly.
    When fitting the replacement arm and blade, slacken the securing nut and
    push the arm fixing brush over the end of the spindle as far as it will go.
    Secure by tightening the nut.
    To fit a new blade only, take out the rubber bush securing the old blade to
    the arm. Insert the tongue on the replacement blade through the slot in the
    arm and secure it by fitting the rubber bush through the hole in the tongue.
    IGNITION WARNING LIGHT. The ignition switch, besides forming a
    means of stopping the engine, is provided for the purpose of preventing the
    battery being discharged by the current flowing through the coil windings
    when the engine is stopped. A red warning light on the instrument panel
    appears when the ignition is switched on and the engine is running very
    slowly or is stationary.
    Should the warning lamp bulb burn out, this will not in any way affect the
    ignition system, but it should be replaced as soon as possible in order to
    safeguard the battery.
    MIXTURE CONTROL WARNING LIGHT. The appearance of the amber
    mixture control warning light on the instrument panel indicates that the
    COLD START control has been left out inadvertently and must be pushed
    right in at once.
    If the warning lamp bulb burns out, it will not affect the operation of the
    mixture control, but it should be replaced as soon as possible to ensure that
    the control is pushed home at the earliest possible moment, and so
    safeguard against unconscious driving with the mixture control in an
    intermediate position, with consequent high petrol consumption and dilution
    of the engine oil. 
    						
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