Land Rover Series Operation Part 1 2 Rover Manual

							APRIL 195046Fig. 16.  Sediment bowl
A – Thumbscrew
B – Glass bowl
C – Joint washerD – Filter gauze (fuel outlet)
E – Fuel inlet
F – Shut-off tap
A screw-down petrol supply shut-off tap is incorporated in the top of the
sediment bowl and this will normally be left in the ON position; it is not
necessary to close the tap when parking the vehicle, but this action would
serve as a precaution against theft.
FUEL PUMP. The S.U. electric fuel pump is mounted on the scuttle; it is
wired through the ignition and hence will only operate when the ignition
switch is ON.” Easy starting of the engine is assured, as the pump fills the
carburettor float chamber immediately the ignition is switched on.
The pump is of the diaphragm type and will give prolonged service with the
minimum of attention.
A gauze filter (A) is incorporated which can be easily withdrawn by
unscrewing the hexagon brass plug (B) in the bottom of the pump body.
The only maintenance normally required is the cleaning of this filter at
every 6,000 miles (10.000 Km.) clean thoroughly in petrol using a stiff
brush, never use rag.
Should fuel pump trouble be suspected, first disconnect the union at the
pump end of the pipe from the pump to the carburettor and switch on the
ignition. Satisfactory performance of the pump will then indicate that the
fuel shortage is due either to blockage of the flexible pipe to the carburettor, 
						

							APRIL 195047or more possibly to the carburettor float needle sticking up. If the pump will
not function proceed as follows:-
(i) Check that the pump filter is clear.
(ii) Detach the sediment bowl and clean if necessary.
(iii) Check that the pipe from the pump to the sediment bowl is clear by
blowing down it with a tyre pump from the fuel pump end.
(iv) Check that the pipe from the sediment bowl to the tank .is clear by
blowing from the bowl end.
(v) Reconnect the pipes and replace the sediment bowl.
(vi) Test the system for correct functioning.
Should the pump still not work satisfactorily, it may be due to a poor
electrical connection or dirty contact points, which should he checked as
follows:-
(i) Disconnect the feed wire from the terminal (D) on the bakelite
cover and strike it against the scuttle; the appearance of sparks will
indicate that the current supply is in order.
(ii) Remove the bakelite cover and touch the terminal with the lead. If
the pump does not operate when the points are in contact and a
spark cannot be struck off the terminal, it is probable that there is
some dirt on the points (F). These may be cleaned by inserting a
piece of card between them, pinching them together and sliding the
card backwards and forwards.
Failure to rectify the trouble with this treatment will indicate that the pump
itself is at fault, due to there being too much tension on the diaphragm. To
release this tension, remove the body from the base of the pump by undoing
the small screws which hold these two parts together. (The pump earth wire
will be released from one of these screws). The diaphragm (G) will he
adhered to the body of the pump and must be separated with the aid of a
knife; care should be taken to prevent the diaphragm support rollers (H)
from falling out during this operation. Replace the body on the pump base
and assemble the screws loosely; before finally tightening it is advisable to
stretch the diaphragm to its highest possible position by switching on the
pump and holding the contact points together whilst tightening the screws. 
						

							APRIL 195048Fig. 17.  Fuel pump.A – Gauze filter
B – Filter plug
C – Earthing terminal
D – Feed terminal
E – Bakelite cover
F – Contact points
G – DiaphragmH – Diaphragm rollers
J – Inlet union
K – Outlet union
L – Valve cage
M – Thick orange washer
N – Thin red washerIf at any time the pump becomes noisy in. operation an air leak on the
suction side is indicated. The simplest way to check this point is to
disconnect the flexible pipe from the carburettor and allow the pump to
deliver into a can. If the end of the pipe is then submerged in the petrol and
bubbles appear, it indicates an air leak which must be found and cured.
If the pump keeps on beating without delivering any petrol, it is possible
that a piece of dirt is lodged under one of the valves. To locate and remove
such an obstruction, unscrew the top union (K) and lift out the valve cage
(L) When replacing it see that the thin hard red fibre washer (N) is below
the valve cage and the thick orange-coloured one (M) above. A choked
filter or an obstruction on the suction side will make the pump get very hot
and eventually cause a failure.
The operations outlined above should effectively remedy any trouble likely
to occur; if difficulty is still experienced, your local agent should be
consulted. 
						

							APRIL 195049AIR CLEANER.
A small centrifugal pre-cleaner separates the coarser particles of foreign
matter before the air passes into the top of the main cleaner body. The air is
diverted down a large diameter tube in the centre of the cleaner, at the
bottom of which a sharp reversal of direction takes place, thus depositing
the majority of the dust into the oil reservoir in the detachable tray forming
the bottom of the cleaner. It then passes up through the woven steel packing
which fills the annular chamber surrounding the central tube, where the
remaining particles are extracted and the clean air travels through the outlet
elbow to the carburettor intake. (Fig. 18).
The complete cleaner may be removed from the vehicle by undoing the
three large clips securing it to the support on the battery box. It is also
necessary to disconnect the outlet elbow from the carburettor duct, by
rotating a cam ring on the duct to release two clips.Fig. 18.  Air cleanerA – Path of air shown ®  ®  ®
B – Centrifugal pre-cleaner
C – Oil bathD – Oil level
E – Woven steel packing
F – Outlet to carburettor 
						

							APRIL 195050The oil bowl forming the bottom of the cleaner is secured to the body by
means of three further (small) clips; when replacing the bowl, align the
white marks on the cleaner body and bowl to ensure correct location of the
clips. The correct oil level in the bowl is indicated by. a ring formed in the
pressing; the capacity is approximately 2 pints (1 litre).
Two engine breather pipes from the crankcase and top rocker cover are led
into the carburettor duct.
Attention to the air cleaner is extremely important, especially under dusty
conditions, as it plays a very important part in preventing engine. wear
generally and cylinder bore wear in particular. If the vehicle is used mainly
for road work, the oil bowl should be emptied, cleaned and refilled to the
level mark with engine oil at each engine oil change; at the same time clean
the filter gauze by swilling the cleaner body in petrol. When the vehicle is
used for field work, clean and change the oil in the cleaner much more
frequently, under extremely dusty conditions, such as harrowing or
scuffling, daily oil changes may be required.
CARBURETIOR.
The Solex carburettor, type 32 PB12, is fitted with a bi-starter and a two-
phase acceleration and economy device, the operation of the bi-starter being
fully described in the “STARTING PROCEDURE section.. No adjustment
is normally required to the carburettor and the only manual setting provided
is that to obtain smooth engine idling.
Slow-running adjustment.
Prior to making this adjustment it is important to ensure that the engine is in
good mechanical condition; the compressions should be equal, the ignition
system in order and the inlet manifold free from air leaks. The throttle pull-
off spring must pull the throttle right back to its stop, i.e., closed position;
also make sure that the volume control screw (W) has not been broken or
distorted by over-tightening, in which case a replacement must be obtained.
(Fig. 19).
Then proceed with the adjustment as follows:-
1. Run the engine until it is hot – never set the idling with a cold engine.
2. Set the slow-running screw (A) until the idling is on the high side.
3. Slacken the volume screw (W) until the engine begins to hunt. 
						

							APRIL 195051Fig. 19.  Carburettor
A – Slow-running screw
D – Main jet
G – Pilot jet
Gp – Pump jet
Gu – Economy jetGs – Starter jet
L – Accelerator pump operating lever
Q – Accelerator pump operating rod
W – Volume screw
4. Screw it in very gradually until the hunting just disappears.
5. If the engine speed is too high, reset the slow-running screw to slow it
down to an idling speed of about 500 R.P.M.
6. This may cause a resumption of slight hunting. If so, turn the volume
control screw gently in a clockwise direction until the idling is perfect.
Carburettor jet cleaning.
Reference is made in the IN CASE OF TROUBLE” section on Pages 77
and 83 to carburettor jet cleaning.
It is most unlikely that trouble will be experienced with blocked jets, but
Fig. 19 will help you to locate and remove the jets which may need
cleaning. These are:-
(i) Main petrol jet, the jet proper is screwed in to the inner end of the
carrier (D), which must be removed to gain access to the jet. 
						

							APRIL 195052(ii) Pilot jet (g) has a screwdriver slot in the hexagon head.
(iii) Accelerator pump jet (Gp) is located between the main and pilot
jets.
(iv) Economy jet (Gu) is located at the side of the accelerator pump
housing, opposite the pump jet.
(v) Starter petrol jet (Gs) is a plain hexagon-headed unit at the rear of
the carburettor.
STEERING
The Burman steering gear fitted to this vehicle is of the worm and nut type,
the inner column having a multi-start thread on which operates a cylindrical
nut made of a special bronze alloy. The nut is free to move longitudinally in
the main steering box housing, while in the side of the nut is a hardened
steel bush in which operates a ball-headed extension of the rocker shaft.
This latter is set at right-angles to the nut and carries the drop arm at the
other end.
All end thrusts are taken by a three-piece fully adjustable ball bearing
situated at the top of the steering column immediately under the steering
wheel.Fig. 20.  Steering gearA – Oil filler plug
B – Lock nutC – Adjusting nut
D – Felt washer 
						

							APRIL 195053STEERING COLUMN ADJUSTMENT.
The only adjustment provided is to the top journal bearing. This consists of
a cup secured by a lock-ring in the top of  the outer column and two races,
the lower one being fitted to the inner column before assembly, after which
the balls are put in place and the top race adjusted by a hexagon nut and
lock-nut.
Wear or end play on the inner column can therefore be taken up by first
partially drawing away the steering wheel to allow access to the lock-nuts;
then unscrew the top nut, pull down the lower nut until end play disappears
and finally screw down the lock-nut absolutely tight.
The adjustment just described should rarely need attention and no other part
of the gear calls for adjustment. Should the occasion arise to remove the
drop arm, care should be taken not to damage the felt washer; if it becomes
damaged a replacement should be obtained.
BRAKING SYSTEM DESCRIPTION.
The wheel brakes, operated by the foot pedal, are of the Girling hydraulic
type, while the hand-brake operates a Girling mechanical brake unit
mounted on the output shaft from the transfer box.
WHEEL BRAKE ADJUSTMENT. When lining wear has reached the point
where the pedal travel becomes excessive, it is necessary to adjust the brake
shoes in closer relation to the drum. Proceed as follows:-Fig. 21.  Wheel brake adjustmentA – Brake adjuster
B – Bleed nipple 
						

							APRIL 195054Jack up each wheel in turn. On the back face of the brake anchor plate, will
be found a hexagon adjustment bolt (A), which operates a snail cam bearing
on the leading shoe. Only one of these is fitted to each wheel brake unit,
thereby providing single-point adjustment. Spin the wheel and rotate the
adjuster bolt until the brake shoe contacts the drum, then ease the adjuster
until the wheel again rotates freely. Repeat for the other three wheels.
NOTE. – No adjustment is required or provided on the type of wheel brakes
fitted to early vehicles, the design being such that the brake shoes are
always in the correct position relative to the drum. It is well to check which
type of brake is fitted to any particular vehicle.
TRANSMISSION BRAKE ADJUSTMENT. Periodic adjustment of the
transmission brake unit will be required; proceed as follows (see Fig. 22):-
Release the hand-brake. Adjustment is made by means of the adjuster
wedge spindle, protruding from the front of the brake back-plate; during
rotation of the adjuster a click will be felt and heard at each quarter
revolution. Rotate the spindle as far as possible in a clockwise direction,
i.e., until the brake shoes contact the drum. Then unscrew the adjuster two
clicks, and give the brake a firm application to centralise the shoes; the
brake drum should now be quite free to rotate. No other adjustment to the
handbrake system is necessary to compensate for lining wear.Fig. 22.  Transmission brake adjustmentA – Transmission brake adjuster
B – Propellor shaft sleeve lubrication nippleC – Transfer box oil drain plug
D – Petrol tank drain plugHYDRAULIC RESERVOIR.
The fluid reservoir for the hydraulic wheel brake system is fitted under the
seat box on the right-hand side and is accessible when the locker lid is
raised. (The reservoir was fitted on the front of the dash panel on a few 
						

							APRIL 195055early vehicles). The fluid level should be inspected weekly and topped-up
as necessary until the reservoir is three-quarters full. Use only genuine
Girling Crimson Brake Fluid, which can be obtained from any Rover Dealer
or Girling Agent.
BLEEDING THE BRAKE SYSTEM.
If the  level of the fluid in the reservoir is allowed to fall too low, or if any
section of the brake pipe-line is disconnected, the brakes will feel “spongy”
due to air having been absorbed into the system. It will be necessary to
remove this air-lock by “bleeding” the brake system at the wheel cylinders.
Bleeding must always be carried out at all four wheels, irrespective of
which portion of the pipeline is affected. Proceed as follows:-
Attach a suitable length of rubber tubing to the bleed nipple on the brake
back-plate (Figs. 8, 9 and 10) and place the lower end of. the tube in a glass
jar. Slacken the bleed screw behind the nipple and pump the brake pedal
slowly up and down, pausing at each end of each stroke, until the fluid
issuing from the tube shows no sign of air bubbles when the tube is held
below the surface of the fluid in the jar. Then tighten the bleed screw before
removing the tube from the fluid in the jar.
Repeat these operations for the three other wheels in turn. It is well to
continually replenish the fluid in the reservoir while pumping, to ensure that
the level does not fall too low and cause another air-lock to be formed.
SUSPENSION
The semi-elliptic leaf springs and the spring shackles are fitted with rubber
bushes, which need no lubrication attention; the front road springs are
interchangeable while the rear ones are handed. As a safeguard in the event
of main spring leaf fracture, the ends of the second leaf are curled over the
bushes, to afford some measure of support until the defect can be rectified.
Spring control is by Woodhead-Monroe hydraulic dampers, mounted on
rubber bushes at top and bottom. This pattern damper is a double-acting
control unit which ensures a smooth damping of the spring oscillations on
both bump and rebound. By means of a special seal in the damper, the
hydraulic fluid is kept in circulation in such a manner that leakage is not
possible and therefore no topping-up is required at any time.
Should the dampers require attention as a result of accidental damage, they
cannot be repaired by garages or service stations and should therefore be
returned to your Rover agent, who will be able to supply replacement units.