Land Rover Series Operation Part 1 2 Rover Manual

							APRIL 195036ENGINE TIMING
OCTANE SELECTOR.
The timing of the ignition is controlled automatically by mechanism in the
distributor. In addition, an octane selector is fitted. This is a vernier
adjustment attached to the distributor (Fig. 7) fitted with a sliding portion
controlled by an adjusting screw and a calibrated scale marked R (retard)
and A (advance) with a number of divisions between. The standard setting
for the ignition is with the long line of the scale on the sliding portion
against the mark on the selector body, thus leaving one division further
possible advance and four divisions retard.
This setting is correct for any normal fuel and with a clean engine, but
should pinking develop as a result of the need for decarbonising, the control
can be retarded a little by turning the screw in an anti-clockwise direction.
Do not forget to return it to the original position after decarbonising.
In certain countries very low grade fuel is supplied, in which case it may be
necessary to adjust the octane selector to avoid pinking, even with a clean
engine.
FLYWHEEL MARKINGS.
The flywheel markings and timing pointer are visible when the inspection
cover on the right-hand side of the flywheel housing is removed. (Fig. 6).
The markings and their meanings are as follows:-
(1) The line against which the letters T.D.C. are stamped, when brought
dead opposite the pointer, means that No. 1 piston is on Top Dead
Centre, i.e., at the top of its stroke.
(2) The line against which the letters F.A.15° are stamped, when set
opposite the pointer, indicates the firing-point of No. 1 cylinder when
the octane selector is set in the standard position on the sliding scale
(i.e., the point at which the distributor points should be just opening,
with the rotor in the firing position for No. 1 or No. 4 cylinder). It is
15° before T.D.C. (4 flywheel teeth). Disregard the other F.A. marks
at 7°, 8°, and 11° on certain flywheels.
(3) The line against which the letters E.P. are stamped, when set opposite
the pointer, indicates the point at which No. 1 exhaust valve should be
at the peak of its lift (fully open). It is 114° before T.D.C. (31 flywheel
teeth). 
						

							APRIL 195037VALVE TIMING.
If the timing chain and hydraulic tensioner should have been removed, the
procedure to re-time the engine is as follows (See Fig. 11).
(1) Set the exhaust tappets as instructed on Page 38 and slacken the inlet
tappet adjusting screws as far as possible.
(2) Rotate the camshaft in the running direction until No. 1 exhaust valve
is fully open.
The  use of a dial indicator is the only reliable method of determining this
point. It should be mounted on a stud adjacent to No. 1 exhaust rocker and
with its aid the possibility of an error in determining the exhaust peak is
eliminated. It is possible toFig. 11  Timing Gears
A – Camshaft chainwheel
B – Crankshaft chainwheel
C – Jockey pulley
D – Hydraulic tensionerE – Pawl
F – Ratchet
G – Timing chain (driving side)
H – Jockey pulley arm 
						

							APRIL 195038do the job correctly without a dial indicator, but much time is wasted and
the possibilities of an error very much magnified.
(3) Rotate the engine in the running direction until the E.P. mark oil the
flywheel is in line with the pointer.
(4) Fit the timing chain, ensuring that there is no slack on the driving side
(G).
(5) Hold the ratchet pawl (E) clear and replace the complete pulley (C, F
and H), meshing the pulley with the chain.
(6) Check the timing and correct if necessary. The camshaft chainwheel
(A) is made with three irregularly spaced keyways, so that if the timing
will not come correct in the first position tried, alternatives are
provided.
(7) Replace the hydraulic tensioner (D), comprising cylinder, piston and
spring; these items must be assembled dry to prevent the formation of
an air lock. Retain at its upper end with a split pin. Fit the circlip at (H),
retaining the jockey pulley assembly. Engage the ratchet (E, F).
(8) Set the inlet tappets as instructed below.
IGNITION TIMING.
(1) Check the contact breaker clearance and adjust if necessary using the
combined feeler gauge and screwdriver supplied in the tool kit. The
correct gap with the points fully open is .012 in. (0,30 mm).
(2) Rotate the engine in the running direction until the FA15° mark on the
flywheel is in line with the pointer, with both valves on No. 1 cylinder
closed.
(3) The rotor of the distributor will now correspond with No. 1 cylinder
high tension lead terminal.
(4) Set the octane selector to the standard position on the sliding scale.
(5) Set the distributor points just breaking by slackening the ¼ in. pinch
bolt at the base of the distributor head and rotate the distributor bodily
in the required direction. Do not forget to re-tighten the pinch bolt.
TAPPET ADJUSTMENT.
The firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2. The correct tappet clearance is .010 in.
(0,25mm.) on the inlet valves and .012 in. (0,30 mm.) on the exhaust valves,
with the engine either cold or at running temperature. Adjustment for this
clearance is provided by a set-screw and. lock-nut on the rocker. (See Figs.
12 and 13). When adjustment is required, slacken the lock-nut and rotate the 
						

							APRIL 195039set-screw to give the correct clearance by means of a screw- driver. The
lock-nut should be securely tightened after adjustment, great care being
taken to ensure that this operation does not upset the clearance.Fig. 12. Inlet tappet adjustmentFig. 13.  Exhaust tappet adjustment
A – Tappet adjusting screw   B – Lock nut   C – Feeler gauge
The tappet clearance should be set with the engine either cold or at running
temperature and it is essential to ensure that the valve to be adjusted is
really closed. To do this, set the valve receiving attention fully open and
then move the engine one complete turn to bring the tappet on to the back of
the cam. It cannot be urged too strongly that the clearance must be correct if
the best results are to be obtained.
SPARKING PLUGS.
Lodge HLNR sparking plugs are fitted as standard equipment. Every 3,000
miles (5.000 Km.) or 100 hours, the plugs should be removed and cleaned
and the electrode gaps re-set to .023-.026 in. (0,60-0,65 mm.) if necessary.
CLUTCH
The clutch should be used purely for starting the car from rest and when
changing gear. It is bad driving and detrimental to any clutch to coast hills
with the clutch pedal depressed, or to make a habit of slipping the clutch
when rounding corners, etc.
The clutch pedal adjustment is correct when there is ¾ in. (20 mm.) free
movement measured at the pedal pad and the linkage should be re-set when
the movement falls below this figure. Adjustment is provided by a nut on
the end of the rod connecting the pedal to the clutch operating lever on the
bell-housing; this nut is machined so that it locks itself at every half- 
						

							APRIL 195040Fig. 14.  Clutch adjustment
A – Clutch adjustment nut
B – Clutch pedal shaft
C – Brake master cylinderD – Brake pedal shaft
E – Stop-light actuating spring
F – Brake pull-off spring
turn against the joint-pin in the pedal lever.    To increase the free pedal
travel, turn the nut in an anti-clockwise direction half a turn at a time and
make sure that the nut is against the pin, before checking the pedal
movement. (Fig. 14).
COOLING SYSTEM The system is designed to give very efficient cooling
under all operating conditions, provided that the service attentions listed on
Page 43 are carried out at regular intervals.
RADIATOR. The radiator, which is constructed with cooling gills of a
special design, is cowled to shroud the four-bladed fan mounted on the
water pump spindle. Evaporation and consequent loss of coolant when
operating at high temperature is prevented by pressurisation of the system
by means of a sealed type filler cap. The cap incorporates a relief valve
which opens and allows steam to escape at a predetermined pressure; by
this means the boiling-point of the coolant is raised appreciably above the
normal 100C. (212F.). It is most unlikely that such a high temperature
would be reached under the most exacting conditions and even if it were,
the relief valve permits the engine to be kept running without risk of 
						

							APRIL 195041Fig. 15.  Radiator filler cap
A – Pressure relief valve (steam escape ® ® ®)
B – Depression relief valve
damage. A vacuum valve is also fitted to the filler cap to relieve the
depression resulting when the engine has cooled down after running at
extremely high temperatures.
The standard radiator cap incorporates a relief valve which opens at
approximately 5 lb. per sq. in. (0,35 Kg/cm2.). A special cap is available as
an item of extra equipment for use when the vehicle is employed under very
hot conditions or for prolonged periods of stationary work; the relief valve
in this pattern opens at approximately 15 lb. per sq. in. (1,05 Kg/cm2.).
When removing the filler cap, first turn it anti-clockwise to the stop and
allow all pressure to escape before pressing it down and turning further in
the same direction to lift it off.
The radiator block drain tap is situated at the bottom on the right-hand side.
WATER PUMP.
The centrifugal pattern water pump is designed to give maximum service
between overhauls and no adjustment is provided or necessary.   It is
mounted on the front of the cylinder block and, together with the fan, is
driven by a pulley and V type belt from the crankshaft. (The belt also
drives the dynamo). The sealed double-row ball bearing, integral with the
pump spindle, is pre-packed with high melting point grease and requires no
further lubrication throughout its life.
THERMOSTAT.
The thermostat is fitted in the housing at the front of the cylinder head
above the water pump casing, to which it is connected by a tube and rubber 
						

							APRIL 195042joint ring. Its purpose is to provide rapid warming-up by causing the coolant
to circulate only round the engine until a predetermined temperature is
reached, when it opens to allow full circulation through the radiator. The
unit operates at 167 – 190 F. (75 – 88 C.) and this setting cannot be altered
in any way.
If overheating of the engine should occur, check that the thermostat is
functioning correctly; to do this, remove the thermostat from its housing
and run the engine; if the overheating is eliminated the unit is faulty and
must be replaced.
FAN BELT.
As the belt is of the V type, the drive is on the sides of the belt and it is
not therefore necessary to adjust it tightly and so put an excessive load on
the water pump and dynamo bearings. The tension is correct when it is
possible to depress the belt by thumb pressure approximately ½ in. to 1 in.
(12 mm. to 25 mm.), at a point midway between the fan and crankshaft
pulleys. Adjustment of the belt tension is provided by slackening off the
two nuts on the dynamo pivot bolts and the set-bolt retaining the adjusting
link to the dynamo, moving the dynamo outwards until the setting is correct
and re-tightening the nuts and set-bolt.
DRAINING THE COOLING SYSTEM.
The cooling system should be flushed out at least twice each year. It can be
completely drained by opening the taps on the radiator block and on the
right-hand side of the cylinder block at the rear; remove-the radiator filler
cap to prevent a vacuum which may impede thorough draining. When the
water has ceased to flow, a piece of wire should be inserted in each tap to
make sure that a blockage has not been caused by rust or scale from the
system. Place a hose in the radiator filler neck and adjust the flow of water
to equal that draining from the two taps; start the engine and allow it to run
until the whole cooling system has been thoroughly washed out. Switch off
the engine, close the taps, refill the radiator with clean water to the bottom
of the filler neck and replace the filler cap. When filling, use soft water for
preference (rain water will do), as this prevents to a great extent furring up
of the inside of the radiator, cylinder jackets and pipes. The capacity of the
system is 17 pints (9,5 litres)
CLEANING RADIATOR.
In the event of the cooling gills of the radiator becoming blocked with dirt,
straw, etc., they should be cleaned by means of compressed air or water
pressure applied from the rear, so forcing the foreign matter out through the
front of the radiator. Never use a metal implement for this purpose or
serious damage may result to the radiator core. 
						

							APRIL 195043SERVICE ATTENTION.
It is a good plan to always inspect the cooling system at the same time as
the engine oil level is checked, i.e., daily under normal conditions. This care
would largely prevent the possibility of a sudden and costly delay due to
coolant loss and consequent engine failure. The inspection need only take a
few moments and should include the following points:-
(i) Water level in radiator – should be to the bottom of the filler neck.
(ii) Condition of all water hoses – freedom from cracks and hose clips
tight.
(iii) Fan belt tension – a loose belt will lower the efficiency of the
pump and fan and cause overheating.
(iv) Check for water leaks.
FROST PRECAUTIONS.
In cold weather, when the temperature may drop below freezing point,
precautions must be taken to prevent freezing of the water in the cooling
system.
As a thermostat is fitted to the Land-Rover, it must be appreciated that it is
possible for the radiator block to freeze when running in cold weather, even
though the engine temperature is quite high; for this reason the use of an
anti-freezing mixture is absolutely essential. As some anti-freezing
solutions have a corrosive effect upon the thermostat and other portions of
the cooling system, we have found it necessary to recommend only pure
ethylene glycol or good glycol-base solutions such as Bluecol; for your
own protection we advise you, wherever possible, to use nothing else.
Anti-freezing solutions are far more searching at joints than water; before
using them in your Land-Rover, it is therefore important to ensure that the
cooling system is leak-proof. If any doubt exists regarding the condition of
hoses, etc., they should be replaced. The table below gives the percentage
volume of Bluecol required to safeguard against temperatures down to
-40°F. (-40°C.).
Temperature RangeCoolant StrengthQuantityAbove 32 °F  (0 °C)100% water17 pints (9,5 litres)To 12 °F (-11 °C)86% water
14% Bluecol14.5 pints (8,0 litres)
2.5 pints (1,5 litres)To –4 °F (-20 °C)80% water
20% Bluecol13.5 pints (7,5 litres)
3.5 pints (2,0 litres)To –20 °F (-29 °C)76% water
24% Bluecol13.0 pints (7,0 litres)
4.0 pints (2,5 litres)70% water
30% Bluecol11.75 pints (6,5 litres)
5.25 pints (3,0 litres) 
						

							APRIL 195044The anti-freezing mixture should be well mixed to the required strength in a
separate container and added after thoroughly flushing out the system (do
not simply add the correct amount of glycol through the radiator filler); run
the engine for a short while to assist good circulation.
It is important when the winter is over, that steps be taken not only to drain
off the mixture, but to flush the system through several times with very hot
soda water in order to remove all traces. Failure to take this precaution may
eventually, after a season or two of neglect, lead to the complaint of boiling.
If the vehicle is to be stored, in cold weather, unless it is kept in a well-
heated garage or anti-freezing solution has been added to the coolant, the
system must be completely drained as instructed under DRAINING THE
COOLING SYSTEM above. After the water has drained out, it is well to
run the engine at a fast idling speed for not more than half a minute, so as to
dry out any water that may have been retained in the bottom of the
jacketing.
THE FUEL SYSTEM
The fuel system comprises the tank, pipe lines, sediment bowl, pump,
carburettor and air cleaner. It is most important that the system be kept
clean and free from water; periodically inspect for leaks.
Should the vehicle be stored for an extended period, it is well to completely
drain the system to prevent the formation of gum which may cause trouble
in the pump and carburettor. To effect complete draining, remove the drain
plug in the bottom of, the tank and replace when the tank is empty (Fig. 5);
then run the engine until the petrol in the pipes and carburettor is used up.
FUEL TANK.
Petrol is carried in a tank below the front seat-box on the right-hand side. It
rests in a stout steel cradle which forms a double bottom and protects the
tank proper from damage by stones thrown up from the wheels or contact
with any obstacle. The cradle is carried up both in front of and behind the
tank, lipped over and bolted to the brackets on the chassis frame, thus
relieving the tank of any strain due to possible slight distortion of the
chassis frame under extreme conditions of use. 
						

							APRIL 195045The filler is readily accessible by lifting the lid in the top of the seat-box on
the right-hand side
(Fig 4). Except on a
few early vehicles, a
strap is provided on
the back-rest panel
to hold the lid in the
open position. Turn
the cap in an anti-
clockwise direction
to lift it off, which
action will reveal a
filler tube which can
be drawn out and
locked by a slight
movement to the
left, to facilitate
filling. Care should
be taken to prevent
the entry of water or
foreign matter. The capacity of the tank is 10 Imperial gallons (45 litres).
The filler tube may be completely withdrawn to clean the gauze filter in its
lower end; a drain plug is provided in the bottom of the tank. The petrol
level unit is mounted in the top of the tank and requires no attention.
Immediately in front of the filler is the petrol feed pipe extending
downwards to the bottom of the tank, the lower end is shrouded with fine
mesh wire gauze to form a second filter, which being surrounded by petrol
is most unlikely to become choked.
SEDIMENT BOWL. Inserted in the feed pipe from the tank to the pump is
a sediment bowl mounted on the right-hand side of the scuttle. Any foreign
matter in the fuel settles in the glass bowl which can be removed for
cleaning in petrol by slackening the thumbscrew below the bowl and
swinging aside the wire holder. A fine gauze will be found in the body of
the unit; this should also be removed and washed in petrol. When re-
assembling, take care to replace the gauze correctly over the square inlet
nozzle, and also ensure that the cork sealing washer for the bowl is in good
condition.
The sediment bowl should be inspected and cleaned if necessary at the same
intervals as the petrol pump filter, i.e., at every 6,000 miles (10.000 Km.).“Care should be taken to prevent the entry of water.”