Ford Mondeo 4 Owners Manual
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Chapter 2 Part A: In-car engine repair procedures Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Cylinder head and valve components - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B Engine/transmission - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 22 Exhaust manifold - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 21 General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Oil cooler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Oil level sensor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Oil pressure warning light switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 19 Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2 Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Timing belt tensioner and toothed pulleys - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 3 General Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, double overhead camshafts Engine code: 1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LIF 1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RKA 2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . NGA Capacity: 1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1597 cc 1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1796 cc 2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1988 cc Bore: 1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.0 mm 1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.6 mm 2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.8 mm Stroke - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88.0 mm Compression ratio: 1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3:1 1.8 and 2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0:1 Compression pressure - at starter motor speed, engine fully warmed-up .Not available Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end) Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle) Cylinder head Hydraulic tappet bore inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.395 to 28.425 mm Camshafts and hydraulic tappets Camshaft bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25.960 to 25.980 mm Camshaft bearing journal-to-cylinder head running clearance . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.070 mm Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.080 to 0.220 mm Hydraulic tappet diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.400 mm 2A•1 Easy,suitable for novice with little experienceFairly easy,suitable for beginner with some experienceFairly difficult,suitable for competent DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for experienced DIY mechanicVery difficult, suitable for expert DIY or professional Degrees of difficulty Specifications Contents2A
Lubrication Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Oil pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . No information available at time of writing Oil pump clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . No information available at time of writing Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft Cylinder head cover bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1.5 Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5 Camshaft toothed pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 50 Camshaft bearing cap bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7 Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14 Cylinder head bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18 Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 105° Timing belt cover fasteners: Upper-to-middle (outer) cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3 Cover-to-cylinder head or block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5 Cover studs-to-cylinder head or block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 11 6.5 to 8 Timing belt tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 28 Timing belt tensioner backplate locating peg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8 Timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7 Timing belt guide pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 26 to 30 Water pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7 Water pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 3 Auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35 Inlet manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13 Alternator mounting bracket-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 35 Cylinder head support plates: Front plate Torx screws - to power steering pump/air conditioning compressor mounting bracket and cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 35 Rear plate/engine lifting eye - to alternator mounting bracket and cylinder head bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 35 Front engine lifting eye bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12 Inlet and exhaust manifold studs-to-cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 maximum 7 maximum Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts: Shield-to-cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5 Shield/dipstick tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7 Shield/coolant pipe-to-manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17 Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12 Air conditioning refrigerant pipe-to-exhaust manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . . 10 7 Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 to 115 80 to 85 Oil pump-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7 Oil pick-up pipe-to-pump screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7 Oil baffle/pump pick-up pipe nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14 Oil filter adaptor-to-pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 25 13 to 18 Oil pressure warning light switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20 Oil level sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20 Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 22 15 to 16 Coolant pipe-to-sump bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7 Flywheel/driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 to 112 81 to 83 Crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16 Transmission-to-engine bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30 Engine/transmission front mounting: Mounting bracket-to-transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available Mounting-to-subframe bolts/nuts - stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7 Mounting-to-subframe bolts/nuts - stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35 Mounting centre bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89 Engine/manual transmission rear mounting: Mounting bracket-to-transmission 12 mm fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 to 84 58 to 62 Mounting bracket-to-transmission 10 mm fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35 Mounting-to-subframe bolts and nut - stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7 Mounting-to-subframe bolts and nut - stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35 Mounting centre bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89 2A•2 In-car engine repair procedures
Torque wrench settings (continued)Nm lbf ft Engine/automatic transmission rear mounting: Mounting bracket-to-transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 to 49 35 to 36 Mounting-to-subframe bolts - stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7 Mounting-to-subframe bolts - stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35 Mounting centre bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89 Engine/transmission left-hand mounting: Bracket-to-transmission nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 61 Mounting centre bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available Mounting-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available Engine/transmission right-hand mounting: Bracket-to-engine and mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 to 90 61 to 66 Mounting-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 62 Note:Refer to Part B of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings. In-car engine repair procedures 2A•3 2A How to use this Chapter This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair procedures possible while the engine is still installed in the vehicle, and includes only the Specifications relevant to those procedures. Since these procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle, if the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined will not apply. Information concerning engine/transmission removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can be found in Part B of this Chapter, which also includes the Specifications relevant to those procedures. General description - engine The engine, also known by Ford’s internal code name “Zetec” (formerly “Zeta”), is of four-cylinder, in-line type, mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle, with the (clutch and) transmission on its left-hand end (see illustrations). Apart from the plastic timing belt covers and the cast-iron cylinder block/crankcase, all major engine castings are of aluminium alloy. The crankshaft runs in five main bearings, the centre main bearing’s upper half incorporating thrustwashers to control crankshaft endfloat. The connecting rods rotate on horizontally-split bearing shells at their big-ends. The pistons are attached to the connecting rods by gudgeon pins which are an interference fit in the connecting rod small-end eyes. The aluminium alloy pistons are fitted with three piston rings: two compression rings and an oil control ring. After manufacture, the cylinder bores and piston skirts are measured and classified into three grades, which must be carefully matched together, to ensure the correct piston/cylinder clearance; no oversizes are available to permit reboring. The inlet and exhaust valves are each closed by coil springs; they operate in guides which are shrink-fitted into the cylinder head, as are the valve seat inserts.Both camshafts are driven by the same toothed timing belt, each operating eight valves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets, thus eliminating the need for routine checking and adjustment of the valve clearances. Each camshaft rotates in five bearings that are line-bored directly in the cylinder head and the (bolted-on) bearing caps; this means that the bearing caps are not available separately from the cylinder head, and must not be interchanged with caps from another engine. The water pump is bolted to the right-hand 1 General information 1.3A Longitudinal cross-section through engine - inset showing timing belt details 1 Inlet camshaft 2 Exhaust camshaft 3 Oil galleries 4 Exhaust port 5 Oil strainer and pick-up pipe 6 Oil baffle 7 Crankshaft 8 Piston-cooling oil jet (where fitted)9 Inlet valve 10 Inlet port 11 Fuel injector 12 Inlet camshaft toothed pulley 13 Timing belt 14 Exhaust camshaft toothed pulley15 Timing belt (front) guide pulley 16 Crankshaft toothed pulley - behind 17 Crankshaft pulley 18 Oil cooler (where fitted) 19 Timing belt (rear) guide pulley 20 Timing belt tensioner
end of the cylinder block, inboard of the timing belt, and is driven with the power steering pump and alternator by a flat “polyvee”-type auxiliary drivebelt from the crankshaft pulley. When working on this engine, note that Torx-type (both male and female heads) and hexagon socket (Allen head) fasteners are widely used; a good selection of bits, with the necessary adaptors, will be required, so that these can be unscrewed without damage and, on reassembly, tightened to the torque wrench settings specified. General description - lubrication system Lubrication is by means of an eccentric- rotor trochoidal pump, which is mounted on the crankshaft right-hand end, and draws oil through a strainer located in the sump. The pump forces oil through an externally- mounted full-flow cartridge-type filter - on some versions of the engine, an oil cooler is fitted to the oil filter mounting, so that clean oil entering the engine’s galleries is cooled by the main engine cooling system. From the filter, the oil is pumped into a main gallery in the cylinder block/crankcase, from where it is distributed to the crankshaft (main bearings) and cylinder head (see illustration). The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via internal drillings in the crankshaft. On some versions of the engine, each piston crown is cooled by a spray of oil directed at its underside by a jet. These jets are fed by passages off the crankshaft oil supply galleries, with spring-loaded valves to ensure that the jets open only when there is sufficient pressure to guarantee a good oil supply to the rest of the engine components; where the jets are not fitted, separate blanking plugs are provided, so that the passages are sealed, but can be cleaned at overhaul (see illustration). 2A•4 In-car engine repair procedures 1.3B Lateral cross-section through engine 1 Exhaust valve 2 Piston 3 Oil baffle4 Oil strainer and pick-up pipe 5 Spark plug6 Fuel injector 7 Piston-cooling oil jets (where fitted) 1.10 Engine lubrication system - inset showing longitudinal cross-section 1 Main oil gallery 2 From oil filter 3 Oil pump 4 Cylinder head oil-retaining valve 5 Cylinder head oil gallery6 Cylinder head oil supply 7 Oil return 8 Piston-cooling oil spray (where fitted) 9 Oil filter - oil cooler not shown here1.11 Piston-cooling oil jet details 1 Oil jets (when fitted) 2 Oil flow - only when valve opens at set pressure 3 Oil spray 4 Blanking plug (when fitted)
The cylinder head is provided with two oil galleries, one on the inlet side and one on the exhaust, to ensure constant oil supply to the camshaft bearings and hydraulic tappets. A retaining valve (inserted into the cylinder head’s top surface, in the middle, on the inlet side) prevents these galleries from being drained when the engine is switched off. The valve incorporates a ventilation hole in its upper end, to allow air bubbles to escape from the system when the engine is restarted. While the crankshaft and camshaft bearings and the hydraulic tappets receive a pressurised supply, the camshaft lobes and valves are lubricated by splash, as are all other engine components. Valve clearances - general It is necessary for a clearance to exist between the tip of each valve stem and the valve operating mechanism, to allow for the expansion of the various components as the engine reaches normal operating temperature. On most older engine designs, this meant that the valve clearances (also known as “tappet” clearances) had to be checked and adjusted regularly. If the clearances were allowed to be too slack, the engine would be very noisy, its power output would suffer, and its fuel consumption would increase. If the clearances were allowed to be too tight, the engine’s power output would be reduced, and the valves and their seats could be severely damaged. The engines covered in this manual, however, employ hydraulic tappets which use the lubricating system’s oil pressure automatically to take up the clearance between each camshaft lobe and its respective valve stem. Therefore, there is no need for regular checking and adjustment of the valve clearances, but it is essential that onlygood-quality oil of the recommended viscosity and specification is used in the engine, and that this oil is always changed at the recommended intervals. If this advice is not followed, the oilways and tappets may become clogged with particles of dirt, or deposits of burnt (inferior) engine oil, so that the system cannot work properly; ultimately, one or more of the tappets may fail, and expensive repairs may be required. On starting the engine from cold, there will be a slight delay while full oil pressure builds up in all parts of the engine, especially in the tappets; the valve components, therefore, may well “rattle” for about 10 seconds or so, and then quieten. This is a normal state of affairs, and is nothing to worry about, provided that all tappets quieten quickly and stay quiet. After the vehicle has been standing for several days, the valve components may “rattle” for longer than usual, as nearly all the oil will have drained away from the engine’s top end components and bearing surfaces. While this is only to be expected, care mustbe taken not to damage the engine under these circumstances - avoid high speed running until all the tappets are refilled with oil and operating normally. With the vehicle stationary, hold the engine at no more than a fast idle speed (maximum 2000 to 2500 rpm) for 10 to 15 seconds, or until the noise ceases. Do not run the engine at more than 3000 rpm until the tappets are fully recharged with oil and the noise has ceased. If the valve components are thought to be noisy, or if a light rattle persists from the top end after the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature, take the vehicle to a Ford dealer for expert advice. Depending on the mileage covered and the usage to which each vehicle has been put, some vehicles may be noisier than others; only a good mechanic experienced in these engines can tell if the noise level is typical for the vehicle’s mileage, or if a genuine fault exists. If any tappet’s operation is faulty, it must be renewed (Section 13). The following major repair operations can be accomplished without removing the engine from the vehicle. However, owners should note that any operation involving the removal of the sump requires careful forethought, depending on the level of skill and the tools and facilities available; refer to the relevant text for details. (a) Compression pressure - testing. (b) Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting. (c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting. (d) Timing belt - renewal. (e) Timing belt tensioner and toothed pulleys - removal and refitting. (f) Camshaft oil seals - renewal. (g) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal and refitting. (h) Cylinder head - removal, overhaul and refitting. (i) Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising. (j) Sump - removal and refitting. (k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal. (l) Oil pump - removal and refitting. (m) Piston/connecting rod assemblies - removal and refitting (but see note below). (n) Flywheel/driveplate - removal and refitting. (o) Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting. Clean the engine compartment and the exterior of the engine with some type of degreaser before any work is done. It will make the job easier, and will help to keep dirt out of the internal areas of the engine. Depending on the components involved, it may be helpful to remove the bonnet, to improve access to the engine as repairs are performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary).Cover the wings to prevent damage to the paint; special covers are available, but an old bedspread or blanket will also work. If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks develop, indicating a need for component/ gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can generally be made with the engine in the vehicle. The intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, sump gasket, crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gasket are all accessible with the engine in place. Exterior components such as the intake and exhaust manifolds, the sump, the oil pump, the water pump, the starter motor, the alternator and the fuel system components can be removed for repair with the engine in place. Since the cylinder head can be removed without lifting out the engine, camshaft and valve component servicing can also be accomplished with the engine in the vehicle, as can renewal of the timing belt and toothed pulleys. In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary equipment, repair or renewal of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and big-end bearings is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this practice is not recommended, because of the cleaning and preparation work that must be done to the components involved, and because of the amount of preliminary dismantling work required - these operations are therefore covered in Part B of this Chapter. 1When engine performance is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to the ignition or fuel systems, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the engine’s condition. If the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble before any other symptoms become apparent. 2The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, the oil level must be correct, the battery must be fully charged, and the spark plugs must be removed. The aid of an assistant will be required also. 3Disable the ignition system by unplugging the ignition coil’s electrical connector, and remove fuse 14 to disconnect the fuel pump. 4Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is to be preferred. 5Have the assistant hold the throttle wide open and crank the engine on the starter motor; after one or two revolutions, the compression pressure should build up to a maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record the highest reading obtained. 6Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders, recording the pressure developed in each. 7At the time of writing, no compression 3 Compression test - description and interpretation 2 Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle In-car engine repair procedures 2A•5 2A
specifications were available from Ford, but a typical reading would be in excess of 12 bars. All cylinders should produce very similar pressures; any difference greater than 10% indicates the existence of a fault. Note that the compression should build up quickly in a healthy engine; low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually-increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which does not build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could also be the cause). Deposits on the undersides of the valve heads can also cause low compression. 8If the pressure in any cylinder is considerably lower than the others, introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinder through its spark plug hole, and repeat the test. 9If the addition of oil temporarily improves the compression pressure, this indicates that bore or piston wear is responsible for the pressure loss. No improvement suggests that leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head gasket, may be to blame. 10A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket having blown between them; the presence of coolant in the engine oil will confirm this. 11If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower than the others and the engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe or faulty hydraulic tappet could be the cause. 12If the compression is unusually high, the combustion chambers are probably coated with carbon deposits. If this is the case, the cylinder head should be removed and decarbonised. 13On completion of the test, refit the spark plugs, then reconnect the ignition system and fuel pump. General 1Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point in its travel up-and-down its cylinder bore that each piston reaches as the crankshaftrotates. While each piston reaches TDC both at the top of the compression stroke and again at the top of the exhaust stroke, for the purpose of timing the engine, TDC refers to the piston position (usually No 1 piston) at the top of its compression stroke. 2It is useful for several servicing procedures to be able to position the engine at TDC. 3No 1 piston and cylinder are at the right- hand (timing belt) end of the engine (right- and left-hand are always quoted as seen from the driver’s seat). Note that the crankshaft rotates clockwise when viewed from the right-hand side of the vehicle. Locating TDC 4Remove all the spark plugs (Chapter 1). 5Disconnect both battery leads - see Chapter 5, Section 1 - unless the starter motor is to be used to turn the engine. 6Apply the handbrake and ensure that the transmission is in neutral, then jack up the front right-hand side of the vehicle and support on an axle stand. Remove the roadwheel. 7Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see Chapter 1) to expose the crankshaft pulley and timing marks. 8It is best to rotate the crankshaft using a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt; however, it is possible also to use the starter motor (switched on either by an assistant using the ignition key, or by using a remote starter switch) to bring the engine close to TDC, then finish with a spanner. If the starter is used, be sure to disconnect the battery leads immediately it is no longer required. 9Note the two pairs of notches in the inner and outer rims of the crankshaft pulley. In the normal direction of crankshaft rotation (clockwise, seen from the right-hand side of the vehicle) the first pair of notches are irrelevant to the vehicles covered in this manual, while the second pair indicate TDC when aligned with the rear edge of the raised mark on the sump. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the second pair of notches align with the edge of the sump mark; use a straight edge extended out from the sump if greater accuracy is required (see illustrations).10Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC, one of them on the compression stroke. Remove the oil filler cap; if No 4 cylinder exhaust cam lobe is pointing to the rear of the vehicle and slightly downwards, it is No 1 cylinder that is correctly positioned. If the lobe is pointing horizontally forwards, rotate the crankshaft one full turn (360°) clockwise until the pulley notches align again, and the lobe is pointing to the rear and slightly down. No 1 cylinder will then be at TDC on the compression stroke. 11Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the other cylinders can then be located by rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180° at a time and following the firing order (see Specifications). 12An alternative method of locating TDC is to remove the cylinder head cover (see Section 5) and to rotate the crankshaft (clockwise, as described in paragraph 8 above) until the inlet valves for the cylinder concerned have opened and just closed again. Insert a length of wooden dowel (approximately 150 mm/6 in long) or similar into the spark plug hole until it rests on the piston crown, and slowly further rotate the crankshaft (taking care not to allow the dowel to be trapped in the cylinder) until the dowel stops rising - the piston is now at the top of its compression stroke, and the dowel can be removed. 13There is a “dead” area around TDC (as the piston stops rising, pauses and then begins to descend) which makes difficult the exact location of TDC by this method; if accuracy is required, either establish carefully the exact mid-point of the dead area, or refer to the timing marks (paragraph 9 above). 1Unplug the two electrical connectors and disconnect the vacuum hose (where fitted), then remove the air cleaner assembly cover with the air mass meter, the resonator and the plenum chamber (see Chapter 4). 2Disconnect the accelerator cable from the 5 Cylinder head cover- removal and refitting 4 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating 2A•6 In-car engine repair procedures 4.9A Do not use crankshaft pulley’s first pair of notches “A” - align second pair of notches “B” with raised rib on sump “C” . . .4.9B . . . using a straight edge extended out from the sump (arrowed) if greater accuracy is required5.4 Disconnecting crankcase breather hose from cylinder head cover union
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4. Where fitted, disconnect also the cruise control actuator cable (see Chapter 12). 3Remove the timing belt upper cover (see Section 9). 4Disconnect the crankcase breather hose from the cylinder head cover union (see illustration). 5Unplug the HT leads from the spark plugs and withdraw them, unclipping the leads from the cover. 6Working progressively, unscrew the cylinder head cover retaining bolts, noting the spacer sleeve and rubber seal at each, then withdraw the cover (see illustration). 7Discard the cover gasket; this mustbe renewed whenever it is disturbed. Check that the sealing faces are undamaged, and that the rubber seal at each retaining bolt is serviceable; renew any worn or damaged seals. 8On refitting, clean the cover and cylinder head gasket faces carefully, then fit a new gasket to the cover, ensuring that it locates correctly in the cover grooves (see illustration). 9Refit the cover to the cylinder head, then insert the rubber seal and spacer sleeve at each bolt location (see illustration). Start all bolts finger-tight, ensuring that the gasket remains seated in its groove. 10Working in a diagonal sequence from the centre outwards, and in two stages (see Specifications), tighten the cover bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 11Refit the HT leads, clipping them into place so that they are correctly routed; each is numbered, and can also be identified by the numbering on its respective coil terminal. 12Reconnect the crankcase breather hose, and refit the timing belt upper cover. Reconnect and adjust the accelerator cable, then refit the air cleaner assembly cover with the air mass meter, the resonator and the plenum chamber (see Chapter 4). Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when disconnecting any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare light bulbs in or near the work area. Don’t work in a garage where a natural gas appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires handy, and know how to use it. Removal 1Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the handbrake firmly, and slacken the nuts securing the right-hand front roadwheel. 2Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Chapter 4).3Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1. 4Unplugging the two electrical connectors and disconnecting the vacuum hose (where fitted), remove the air cleaner assembly cover with the air mass meter, the resonator and the plenum chamber (see Chapter 4). 5Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4 - where fitted, disconnect also the cruise control actuator cable (see Chapter 12). 6Disconnect the crankcase breather hose from the cylinder head cover union. 7Unbolt the upper part of the exhaust manifold heat shield; unclip the coolant hose to allow it to be withdrawn. Slacken the sleeve nut securing the EGR pipe to the manifold, remove the two screws securing the pipe to the ignition coil bracket, then unscrew the sleeve nut securing the pipe to the EGR valve - see Chapter 6 for full details if required. 8Remove the two screws securing the wiring “rail” to the top of the manifold - this is simply so that it can be moved as required to reach the manifold bolts. Unplug their electrical connectors to disconnect the camshaft position sensor and the coolant temperature sensor, then unclip the wiring from the ignition coil bracket, and secure it to the manifold. 9Remove the three screws securing the wiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold. Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure regulator) to disconnect the wiring of themanifold components from the engine wiring loom. 10Marking or labelling them as they are unplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses as follows: (a) One from the rear of the throttle housing (only the one hose - there is no need to disconnect the second hose running to the fuel pressure regulator). (b) One from the union on the manifold’s left- hand end. (c) The braking system vacuum servo unit hose (see Chapter 9 for details). (d) One from the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. 11Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by removing the filler cap, then undo the fuel feed and return lines connecting the engine to the chassis (see Chapter 4). Plug or cap all open fittings. 12Unbolt the power steering high-pressure pipe and the earth lead from the cylinder head rear support plate/engine lifting eye, then unscrew the bolt securing the support plate/lifting eye to the alternator mounting bracket. 13Unscrew the six nuts securing the engine/transmission right-hand mounting bracket, then withdraw the bracket. 14Remove the alternator (see Chapter 5). 15Unbolt the alternator mounting bracket from the rear of the cylinder block and withdraw it, together with the cylinder head rear support plate/engine lifting eye (see illustration). 6 Inlet manifold - removal and refitting In-car engine repair procedures 2A•7 2A 5.8 Ensure gasket is located correctly in cover groove5.6 Removing cylinder head cover 5.9 Ensure rubber seal is fitted to each cover bolt spacer, as shown6.15 Alternator mounting bracket must be unbolted from rear of cylinder block to permit access to inlet manifold nut
16Unscrew the bolts and nuts securing the manifold to the cylinder head and withdraw it (see illustration). Take care not to damage vulnerable components such as the EGR pipe and valve as the manifold assembly is manoeuvred out of the engine compartment. Refitting 17Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points: (a) When using a scraper and solvent to remove all traces of old gasket material and sealant from the manifold and cylinder head, be careful to ensure that you do not scratch or damage the material of either; the cylinder head is of aluminium alloy, while the manifold is a plastics moulding - any solvents used must be suitable for this application. If the gasket was leaking, have the mating surfaces checked for warpage at an automotive machine shop. While it may be possible to have the cylinder head gasket surface skimmed if necessary, to remove any distortion, the manifold must be renewed if it is found to be warped, cracked - check with special care around the mounting points for components such as the idle speed control valve and EGR pipe - or otherwise faulty. (b) Provided the relevant mating surfaces are clean and flat, a new gasket will besufficient to ensure the joint is gas-tight. Do notuse any kind of silicone-based sealant on any part of the fuel system or inlet manifold. (c) Fit a new gasket, then locate the manifold on the head and install the nuts and bolts (see illustration). (d) Tighten the nuts/bolts in three or four equal steps to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Work from the centre outwards, to avoid warping the manifold. (e) Refit the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal - tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench settings specified. (f) When reassembling the engine/transmission right-hand mounting, renew the self-locking nuts, and do not allow the mounting to twist as the middle two of the bracket’s six nuts are tightened. (g) Before starting the engine, check the accelerator cable for correct adjustment and the throttle linkage for smooth operation. (h) When the engine is fully warmed up, check for signs of fuel, intake and/or vacuum leaks (see illustration). (i) Road test the vehicle, and check for proper operation of all disturbed components.Warning: The engine must be completely cool before beginning this procedure. Note:In addition to the new gasket and any other parts, tools or facilities needed to carry out this operation, a new plastic guide sleeve will be required on reassembly. Removal 1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1. 2Unbolt the resonator support bracket from the engine compartment front crossmember, slacken the two clamp screws securing the resonator to the air mass meter and plenum chamber hoses, then swing the resonator up clear of the thermostat housing (see Chapter 4). 3Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 4Disconnect the coolant hose and the coolant pipe/hose from the thermostat housing; secure them clear of the working area. 5Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield, and withdraw both parts of the shield (see illustration). Apply penetrating oil to the EGR pipe sleeve nut, and to the exhaust manifold mounting nuts (also to the pulse-air system sleeve nuts, if they are to be unscrewed). 6Unscrew the sleeve nut securing the EGR pipe to the manifold, remove the two screws securing the pipe to the ignition coil bracket, then slacken the sleeve nut securing the pipe to the EGR valve - see Chapter 6 for full details if required. 7While the manifold can be removed with the pulse-air system components attached - unbolt the filter housing and disconnect its vacuum hose if this is to be done - it is easier to remove the pulse-air assembly first, as described in Chapter 6 (see illustration). 8Unplugging the oxygen sensor electrical connector to avoid straining its wiring, unscrew the nuts to disconnect the exhaust system front downpipe from the manifold (see Chapter 4). 7 Exhaust manifold - removal, inspection and refitting 2A•8 In-car engine repair procedures 6.16 Withdrawing inlet manifold - take care not to damage delicate components6.17A Always renew inlet manifold gasket - do not rely on sealants 6.17B Check all disturbed components - braking system vacuum servo unit hose (arrowed) shown here - for leaks on reassembly 7.5 Exhaust manifold heat shield upper part securing bolts (arrowed) 7.7 Pulse-air system (sleeve nuts arrowed) need not be removed unless required - assembly can be withdrawn with exhaust manifold
9Remove the nuts and detach the manifold and gasket (see illustration). Take care not to damage vulnerable components such as the EGR pipe as the manifold assembly is manoeuvred out of the engine compartment. When removing the manifold with the engine in the vehicle, additional clearance can be obtained by unscrewing the studs from the cylinder head; a female Torx-type socket will be required (see illustration). 10Always fit a new gasket on reassembly, to carefully-cleaned components (see below). Do notattempt to re-use the original gasket. Inspection 11Use a scraper to remove all traces of old gasket material and carbon deposits from the manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces. If the gasket was leaking, have the manifold checked for warpage at an automotive machine shop, and have it resurfaced if necessary. Caution: When scraping, be very careful not to gouge or scratch the delicate aluminium alloy cylinder head. 12Provided both mating surfaces are clean and flat, a new gasket will be sufficient to ensure the joint is gas-tight. Do notuse any kind of exhaust sealant upstream of the catalytic converter. 13Note that the downpipe is secured to the manifold by two bolts, with a coil spring, spring seat and self-locking nut on each. On refitting, tighten the nuts until they stop on thebolt shoulders; the pressure of the springs will then suffice to make a leakproof joint (see illustrations). 14Do not overtighten the nuts to cure a leak - the bolts will shear; renew the gasket and the springs if a leak is found. The bolts themselves are secured by spring clips to the manifold, and can be renewed easily if damaged (see illustration). Refitting 15Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points: (a) Position a new gasket over the cylinder head studs, and fit a new plastic guide sleeve to the stud nearest to the thermostat housing, so that the manifold will be correctly located (see illustration). Do notrefit the manifold without this sleeve. (b) Refit the manifold, and finger-tighten the mounting nuts. (c) Working from the centre out, and in three or four equal steps, tighten the nuts to the torque wrench setting given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter. (d) Refit the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. Tighten all fasteners to the specified torque wrench settings. (e) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1). (f) Run the engine, and check for exhaust leaks. Check the coolant level when fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature.1Remove the auxiliary drivebelt - either remove the drivebelt completely, or just secure it clear of the crankshaft pulley, depending on the work to be carried out (see Chapter 1). 2If necessary, rotate the crankshaft until the timing marks align (see Section 4). 3The crankshaft must now be locked to prevent its rotation while the pulley bolt is unscrewed. Proceed as follows: (a) If the engine/transmission is still installed in the vehicle: (1) If the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission, select top gear, and have an assistant apply the brakes hard. (2) If the vehicle is fitted with automatic transmission, unbolt the small metal cover plate from the sump, and use a large screwdriver or similar to lock the driveplate ring gear teeth while an assistant slackens the pulley bolt; take care not to damage the teeth or the surrounding castings when using this method. (b) If the engine/transmission has been removed but not yet separated: (1) If the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission, remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5) and lock the flywheel 8 Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting In-car engine repair procedures 2A•9 2A 7.13B Renew exhaust system downpipe- to-manifold gasket to prevent leaks7.14 Release spring clip to extract securing bolt from manifold, when required7.15 Fit plastic guide sleeve to stud arrowed when refitting exhaust manifold 7.9A Unscrew nuts (arrowed) to remove exhaust manifold . . . 7.9B . . . studs can be unscrewed also, if required, to provide additional working space7.13A Showing exhaust downpipe-to- manifold securing bolts - note coil spring, and shoulder on bolt
using the method outlined in (2) above. (2) If the vehicle is fitted with automatic transmission, see (2) above. (c) If the engine/transmission has been removed and separated, use the method shown in illustration 21.11. 4Unscrew the pulley bolt and remove the pulley (see illustrations). 5Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; ensure that the pulley’s keyway is aligned with the crankshaft’s locating key, and tighten the pulley bolt to the specified torque wrench setting. Upper cover 1Unscrew the cover’s two mounting bolts and withdraw it (see illustration). 2Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; ensure the cover edges engage correctly with each other, and note the torque wrench setting specified for the bolts. Middle cover 3Unscrew the six nuts securing the engine/transmission right-hand mounting bracket, then withdraw the bracket. 4Slacken the water pump pulley bolts. 5Remove the timing belt upper cover (see paragraph 1 above). 6Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chap- ter 1). 7Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley (see illustration). 8Unscrew the middle cover fasteners (one bolt at the front, one at the lower rear, one stud at the top rear) and withdraw the cover (see illustration). 9Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure the cover edges engage correctly with each other, and note the torque wrench settings specified for the various fasteners. When reassembling the engine/ transmission right-hand mounting, renew the self-locking nuts, and do not allow the mounting to twist as the middle two of the bracket’s six nuts are tightened. Lower cover 10Remove the crankshaft pulley (see Section 8). 11Unscrew the cover’s three securing bolts and withdraw it (see illustration). 12Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; ensure the cover edges engage correctly with each other, and note the torque wrench settings specified for the various fasteners. Inner shield 13Remove the timing belt, its tensioner components and the camshaft toothed pulleys (see Sections 10 and 11). 14The shield is secured to the cylinder head by two bolts at the top, and by two studslower down; unscrew these and withdraw the shield (see illustration). 15Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; note the torque wrench settings specified for the various fasteners. Note:To carry out this operation, a new timing belt (where applicable), a new cylinder head cover gasket, and some special tools (see text) will be required. If the timing belt is being removed for the first time since the vehicle left the factory, a tensioner spring and retaining pin must be obtained for fitting on reassembly. 10 Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment 9 Timing belt covers- removal and refitting 2A•10 In-car engine repair procedures 8.4A Unscrew pulley bolt to release crankshaft pulley8.4B Ensure pulley is located on crankshaft Woodruff key on reassembly9.1 Remove bolts (arrowed) to release timing belt upper cover 9.8 Remove fasteners (arrowed) to release timing belt middle cover9.7 Slacken water pump pulley bolts and remove pulley 9.11 Removing timing belt lower cover - bolt locations arrowed9.14 Timing belt inner shield fasteners (arrowed)