Ford Mondeo 4 Owners Manual

							Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully. 
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects ofa slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or
a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter
of either entrusting repair work to a specialist
in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the
cost of the equipment and materials required
for effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then welded
back together, using a hot-air gun to heat up
and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed, and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions,
this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork
filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with theproblem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
which is compatible with the type of plastic
used. At one time, the use of a universal paint
was not possible, owing to the complex range
of plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally posses.
Where serious damage has occurred, or
large areas need renewal due to neglect, it
means that complete new panels will need
welding-in; this is best left to professionals. If
the damage is due to impact, it will also be
necessary to check completely the alignment
of the bodyshell; this can only be carried out
accurately by a Ford dealer, using special jigs.
If the body is left misaligned, it is primarily
dangerous, as the car will not handle properly,
and secondly, uneven stresses will be
imposed on the steering, suspension and
possibly transmission, causing abnormal wear
or complete failure, particularly to items such
as the tyres.
Removal
Front bumper
1Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
2Where applicable, remove the foglights
from the front bumper (Chapter 12).
3Where applicable, disconnect the tubing
from the headlight washer jets.
4Unscrew the screws securing the wheel
arch liners to the front bumper (see
illustration).
5Unscrew the bumper mounting nuts, and
withdraw the bumper forwards from the
vehicle, at the same time disconnecting the
guides from the side pins (see illustrations).
Rear bumper
6Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
6 Bumpers - removal and refitting
5 Major body damage - repair
11•4 Bodywork and fittings
If bodystopper is used, it can
be mixed with cellulose
thinners, to form a really thin
paste which is ideal for filling
small holes. 
						

							7Disconnect the rear exhaust mounting
rubber, and support the exhaust system on an
axle stand.
8Remove the screws securing the wheel
arch liners to the rear bumper.
9Unscrew the bumper mounting nuts, and
withdraw the bumper rearwards from the
vehicle, at the same time disconnecting the
guides from the side pins (see illustration).
Refitting
Front and rear bumpers
10Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Make sure that the guides locate
correctly on the side pins.
Removal
1Support the bonnet in the open position.
2Using a Torx key, unscrew the radiator grille
mounting screws (see illustration).
3Unclip the radiator grille from the front
panel (see illustration).
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Open the bonnet, and support it in the open
position using the stay.
2Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
3Prise out the clips from the insulator on the
underside of the bonnet, for access to the
windscreen washer hoses and engine
compartment light. It is not necessary to
completely remove the insulator.
4Disconnect the wiring from the engine
compartment light, and unclip the wiring from
the bonnet.5Unbolt the earth lead from the bonnet (see
illustration).
6Disconnect the windscreen washer hoses
from the bottom of the jets, and unclip the
hose from the bonnet.
7To assist in correctly realigning the bonnet
when refitting it, mark the outline of the hinges
with a soft pencil. Loosen the two hinge
retaining bolts on each side (see illustration).
8With the help of an assistant, unscrew the
four bolts, release the stay, and lift the bonnet
from the vehicle (see illustration).
Refitting
9Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Position the bonnet hinges within
the outline marks made during removal, but if
necessary alter its position to provide a
8 Bonnet - removal, 
refitting and adjustment
7 Radiator grille- 
removal and refitting
Bodywork and fittings  11•5
11
7.3  Unclipping the radiator grille from the
front panel
8.5  Earth lead and washer hoses on the
underside of the bonnet
6.9  Rear bumper mounting nuts7.2  Removing a radiator grille mounting
screw
8.7  Mark around the bonnet hinges with a
soft pencil before removal
6.4  Screw (arrowed) securing the wheel
arch liner to the front bumper6.5A  Front bumper mounting bolt
(arrowed)6.5B  Disconnecting the front bumper from
the side guides 
						

							11.3B  . . . and disconnect the multi-plug
uniform gap all round. Adjust the rear height
of the bonnet by repositioning it on the
hinges. Adjust the front height by
repositioning the lock (see Section 10) and
turning the rubber buffers on the engine
compartment front cross panel up or down to
support the bonnet (see illustration).
Removal
1With the bonnet open, disconnect the
battery negative (earth) lead (Chapter 5,
Section 1).
2Working inside the vehicle, remove the trim
from the “B” pillar, and pull off the doorweatherstrips from the bottom of the door
apertures.
3Remove the clips and screws, and
withdraw the lower side trim, to give access to
the bonnet release lever (see illustration).
4Release the outer cable from the lever
bracket.
5Unscrew and remove the lever mounting
screws, and turn the lever clockwise through
a quarter-turn to disconnect it from the cable.
6Remove the radiator grille (Section 7). Also
remove the backing panel from the engine
compartment front crossmember.
7Release the inner and outer cables from the
lock.
8Withdraw the cable from the engine
compartment, feeding it through the front
crossmember, and removing the grommet
from the bulkhead.
Refitting
9Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Remove the radiator grille (Section 7).
2Release the inner and outer cables from the
bonnet lock.
3Mark the position of the lock on the
crossmember, then unscrew the mounting
nuts and withdraw the lock.
Refitting and adjustment
4Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, starting by positioning the lock as
noted before removal.
5If the front of the bonnet is not level with the
front wings, the lock may be moved up or
down within the mounting holes. After making
an adjustment, raise or lower the rubber
buffers to support the bonnet correctly.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Carefully prise out the plastic cover with a
small screwdriver. Remove the screw, and
11 Door inner trim panel -
removal and refitting
10 Bonnet lock - removal,
refitting and adjustment
9 Bonnet release cable and
lever - removal and refitting
11•6 Bodywork and fittings
8.8  Removing the bonnet8.9  Buffer for adjustment of the bonnet
front height9.3  Bonnet release lever
11.2B  . . . remove the screw . . .11.2A  Prise out the plastic cover . . .
11.2C  . . . and withdraw the bezel from the
inner door handle11.3A  Remove the window operating
switch . . . 
						

							ease the bezel off the inner door handle (see
illustrations).
3Where applicable, remove the window
operating switch and disconnect the multi-
plug (see illustrations).
Front door
4Carefully prise out the cover, remove the
screws and withdraw the door pull handle
(see illustrations).
5Prise off the plastic cap, remove the screw,
and withdraw the quarter bezel from the front
of the window opening (see illustrations).
Rear door
6Prise off the cap, then remove the screw
and withdraw the door pull handle (see
illustrations).
Front and rear doors
7On models fitted with manual (ie non-
electric) windows, fully shut the window, and
note the position of the regulator handle.
Release the spring clip by inserting a clean
cloth between the handle and the door trim.
Pull the cloth against the open ends of the clip
to release it, at the same time pulling the
handle from the regulator shaft splines.
Withdraw the handle (and where fitted, the
spacer) and recover the clip (see
illustrations).
8Prise the caps from the trim panel retaining
screws, then remove the screws and lift off
the panel. Where a speaker is attached to the
trim panel, disconnect the multi-plug (see
illustrations).
Bodywork and fittings  11•7
11
11.7B  Withdrawing the window regulator
handle11.7C  Recover the spring clip from the
window regulator handle11.8A  Prise out the caps . . .
11.6A  Remove the screw . . .11.6B  . . . and withdraw the rear door pull
handle11.7A  Using a clean cloth to release the
spring clip from the window regulator
handle
11.5A  Remove the plastic cap and the
screw . . .
11.5B  . . . then withdraw the quarter bezel
11.4A  Remove the cover . . .11.4B  . . . then remove the screws and
withdraw the door pull handle 
						

							9If necessary, the foam insulation may be
removed from the door. First remove the
speaker as described in Chapter 12.
10On models with manual windows, remove
the foam spacer from the regulator spindle
(see illustration).
11On the rear door, unscrew the screws and
remove the door pull bracket (see
illustration).
12Carefully cut the adhesive with a knife,
and remove the foam insulation (see
illustration).
Refitting
13Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
Front (manual/non-electric)
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Remove the door inner trim panel (Sec-
tion 11).
3Remove the door exterior mirror (Sec-
tion 16).
4Temporarily refit the regulator handle on its
splines.
5Lower the window until the glass support
bracket is visible through the holes in the door
inner panel. Remove the regulator handle.
12 Door window glass - 
removal and refitting
11•8 Bodywork and fittings
11.8B  . . . remove the inner-facing 
screws . . .11.8C  . . . and the side screws . . .11.8D  . . . then lift off the trim panel
11.10  Removing the foam spacer11.11  Removing the door pull bracket
from a rear door11.12  Removing the foam insulation
11.8E  Door trim panel components
1  Door
2  Foam seal
3  Trim panel
4  Top mounting
5  Centre mounting 
						

							6Carefully prise off the weatherstrip from the
outside of the door.
7Support the glass, then unscrew the bolts
from the support bracket.
8Lift the glass from the door while tilting it at
the rear, and withdraw it from the outside.
Front (electric)
9Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
10Remove the door inner trim panel (Sec-
tion 11).
11Remove the door exterior mirror (Section 16).
12Temporarily reconnect the battery and the
window operating switch. Lower the window
until the support bracket and bolts are visible
through the holes in the door inner panel (see
illustration). Disconnect the battery lead and
the operating switch again.
13Carefully prise off the weatherstrip from
the outside of the door (see illustration).
14Support the glass, then unscrew the bolts
from the support bracket.
15Lift the glass from the door while tilting it
at the rear, and withdraw it from the outside
(see illustration).
Rear (manual/non-electric)
16Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (Chapter 5, Section 1).
17Remove the door inner trim panel (Sec-
tion 11).
18Temporarily refit the regulator handle on
its splines.19Lower the window until the glass support
bracket and bolts are visible through the holes
in the door inner panel. Remove the regulator
handle.
20Support the glass, then unscrew the bolts
from the support bracket.
21Unscrew the screws, and remove the air
vent grilles from the rear of the rear door (see
illustrations).
22Carefully prise off the weatherstrip from
the outside of the door.
23Have an assistant raise the glass from the
outside, and hold it near its shut position.
24Loosen (but do not remove) the three
regulator mounting bolts, then slide the top
bolts to the right, and push them out. Slide the
bottom bolt upwards, and push it out. Lower
the regulator assembly inside the door.
25Working inside the door, lower the glass
until it is below the regulator position, and
move the glass to the outer side of its
channels.
26With the help of an assistant, lift the glass
out of the door, and withdraw it from the
outside (see illustration).
Rear (electric)
27The procedure is as just described for
manual windows, making allowances for the
difference in the regulator mechanism.
Refitting
All doors
28Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure, making sure that the glass is
correctly located in the support bracket.
Removal
1Remove the window glass (Section 12).
2Loosen (but do not remove) the regulator
and manual winder/electric motor mounting
bolts (see illustrations).
3Twist the winder or motor (as applicable) in
the bolt slots, and push it inwards.
4Slide the top bolts to the right, and push
them out. Slide the bottom bolt upwards, and
push it out.
13 Door window regulator-
removal and refitting
Bodywork and fittings  11•9
11
12.21B  . . . and remove the air vent grilles
from the rear door12.26  Lifting the glass from the rear door13.2A  Window regulator upper mounting
bolts (front door)
12.12  Window support bracket bolts
(arrowed) viewed through the holes in the
door inner panel12.13  Removing the weatherstrip from the
outside of the door12.15  Lifting the glass from the front door
12.21A  Unscrew the screws . . . 
						

							5On electric windows, disconnect the wiring
multi-plug from the motor (see illustration).
6Withdraw the window regulator mechanism
from inside the door, through the hole in the
inner panel (see illustrations).
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
Front door exterior handle
1Remove the door inner trim panel (Sec-
tion 11).
2Use a knife to cut through the adhesive
strip, so that the foam insulator can be peeled
back locally for access to the lock. Do not
peel back the foam insulator without first
cutting through the adhesive strip, otherwise
the insulator will be damaged. To ensure a
good seal when the insulator is pressed back,
do not touch the adhesive strip.
3Unscrew and remove the two bolts for the
exterior handle outer bezel, and remove the
bezel (see illustrations).
14 Door handle and lock
components - 
removal and refitting
11•10 Bodywork and fittings
13.2B  Electric window motor mounting
bolts (front door)13.2C  Window regulator mounting bolts -
arrowed (rear door)13.2D  Manual winder mounting bolts (rear
door)
13.5  Disconnecting the wiring multi-plug
from an electrically-operated window13.6A  Removing the window regulator
mechanism from the front door
13.6B  Front door window regulator
removed from the vehicle13.6C  Removing the window regulator
mechanism from the rear door
13.6D  Rear door window regulator
removed from the vehicle14.3A  Remove the two bolts (arrowed) . . .14.3B  . . . followed by the exterior handle
bezel 
						

							4Unscrew and remove the lock mounting
bolts on the inner rear edge of the door, and
remove the plate. Also remove the additional
support screw (see illustrations).
5Unclip and disconnect the wiring multi-
plugs for the central locking and alarm
systems (see illustration).
6Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
door lock.
7Disconnect the inner handle illumination
light. Undo the screws and remove the inner
handle. Disconnect the operating cable from
the inner handle, as described later in this
Section (see illustrations).
8Manipulate the lock and handle assembly
as necessary, and disconnect the wiring
multi-plugs for the alarm sensor and central
locking. Withdraw the complete assembly
from inside the door (see illustrations).
9To disconnect the handle assembly from
the lock bracket, slide the rubber posts
inwards, and push out the assembly (see
illustration).
10To remove the handle itself, twist the door
handle through a quarter-turn, and pull out the
connecting rods (see illustration).
11Remove the alarm sensor and the central
locking “Set-reset” sensor (see illustration).
Rear door exterior handle
12Remove the door inner trim panel (Sec-
tion 11).
13Use a knife to cut through the adhesive
Bodywork and fittings  11•11
11
14.8B  Front door lock and exterior handle
assembly removed from the vehicle14.9  Disconnecting the handle assembly
from the lock bracket14.10  Pulling out the handle connecting
rods
14.4A  Unscrew the lock mounting 
bolts . . .14.4B  . . . and remove the plate14.4C  Removing the additional support
screw
14.5  Disconnecting the central locking
and alarm system wiring multi-plugs14.7A  Removing the inner handle
14.7B  Disconnecting the operating cable
from the inner handle14.8A  Removing the lock and exterior
handle assembly from inside the door 
						

							strip, so that the foam insulator can be peeled
back for access to the lock. Do notpeel back
the foam insulator without first cutting through
the adhesive strip. To ensure a good seal
when the insulator is pressed back, do not
touch the adhesive strip.
14Prise out the plug from the rear edge of
the door, then unscrew the handle mounting
nuts (see illustrations).
15Prise up the clip, and disconnect the
operating rod from the lock (see illustration).
16Withdraw the handle from the outside of
the door (see illustration).
Interior handle
17Remove the door inner trim panel (Sec-
tion 11).
18Use a knife to cut through the adhesive
strip, so that the foam insulator can be peeledback for access to the lock. Do notpeel back
the foam insulator without first cutting through
the adhesive strip. To ensure a good seal
when the insulator is pressed back, do not
touch the adhesive strip.
19Disconnect the interior handle illumination
light.
20Undo the screws and remove the interior
handle.
21To remove the cable, first pull back the
plastic outer cable end and blanking piece.
Apply light inward pressure to the control
lever, with the lever in the locked position,
until the inner cable is aligned with the release
slot in the bottom of the cable holder.
22Push down on the cable ferrule, and
disconnect the inner cable. Remove the
handle assembly.
Lock barrel
23Remove the exterior handle as described
earlier in this Section.
24Prise out the barrel retaining tab from the
handle body, using a small screwdriver (see
illustration).
25Insert the key, turn it so that it engages
the barrel, then pull out the barrel (see
illustration).
Lock motor - front door26Remove the exterior handle as described
earlier in this Section.
27Extract the clip, and pull out the operating
rod.
28Remove the operating rod from the plastic
bush, by turning it through a quarter-turn.
29Release the sensor wiring loom from the
clip.
11•12 Bodywork and fittings
14.11  Removing the central locking “Set-
reset” sensor14.14A  Prise out the plug . . .14.14B  . . . and unscrew the handle
mounting nuts
14.25  . . . and pull out the lock barrel14.31  Unclipping the door-ajar sensor14.32  Removing the plastic shield from the
locating post
14.15  Disconnect the operating rod from
the lock14.16  Removing the rear door exterior
handle14.24  Prise out the barrel retaining tab . . . 
						

							30Detach the mounting plate from the lock.
31Release the door-ajar sensor from the clip
(see illustration).
32Prise the plastic shield from the locating
post (see illustration).
33Slide the outer cable from the lock
bracket (see illustration), then turn the inner
cable through a quarter-turn to remove it from
the bell crank.
34Unscrew the mounting screws and
remove the lock motor (see illustration).
Lock motor - rear door
35Remove the exterior handle as described
earlier in this Section.
36Unscrew and remove the three lock
mounting screws.
37Release the sensor wiring loom from the
clip on the door.
38Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
door lock.
39Disconnect the interior handle illumination
light.
40Remove the screws, and remove the
interior handle.
41Remove the lock assembly.
42Release the door-ajar sensor from the
clip.
43Prise the plastic shield from the locating
post.
44Slide the outer cable from the lock
bracket, then turn the inner cable through a
quarter-turn to remove it from the bell crank.
45Unscrew the mounting screws andremove the lock motor.
Striker
46Using a pencil, mark the position of the
striker.
47Undo the mounting screws using a Torx
key, and remove the striker.
Check strap
48Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (Chapter 5, Section 1).
49Using a Torx key, unscrew and remove
the check strap mounting screw(s). On the
front door, there are two screws; on the rear
door, there is only one.
50Prise the rubber grommet from the door
aperture, then unscrew the mounting nuts and
withdraw the check strap from the door.
Refitting
Handles (exterior and interior)
51Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Lock barrel
52Check that the retaining clip is fitted
correctly.
53Align the grooves on the barrel with the
grooves on the body and operating lever, then
carefully push the barrel into the handle until it
engages the clip.
54The remaining refitting procedure is a
reversal of removal.
Lock motor
55Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Striker
56Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but check that the door lock
passes over the striker centrally. If necessary,
re-position the striker before fully tightening
the mounting screws.
Check strap
59Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Using a Torx key, unscrew and remove the
check strap mounting screw(s). On the front
door, there are two screws; on the rear door,
there is only one (see illustrations).
3Disconnect the wiring connector(s) by
twisting them anti-clockwise. On the front
door, there are two connectors; on the rear
door, there is only one (see illustration).
4Extract the small circlips from the top of the
upper and lower hinge pins (see illustration).
5Have an assistant support the weight of the
15 Door - removal and refitting
Bodywork and fittings  11•13
11
15.2B  Front door check strap removed15.3  Disconnecting a door wiring
connector15.4  Extract the small circlips . . .
14.33  Slide the outer cable from the lock
bracket14.34  Removing a lock motor15.2A  Front door check strap mounting
screw removal