Ford Mondeo 4 Owners Manual
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2Using a trolley jack, support the rear lower arm beneath the coil spring position. 3Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the rear shock absorber to the knuckle. 4Where applicable, release the ABS wheel sensor lead from the tie-bar. 5Detach the handbrake cable from the tie- bar bracket. 6Refer to Chapter 9, and disconnect the handbrake cable from the rear brake shoes or rear caliper, as applicable. Pass the cable through the hole in the tie-bar. 7Unscrew and remove the three bolts securing the tie-bar to the knuckle (see illustration). 8Unbolt the tie-bar bracket from the underbody, and withdraw the assembly from under the vehicle (see illustrations). 9Mount the tie-bar in a vice, then unscrew the bolt, and separate the tie-bar from its bracket. 10It is not possible to renew the rubber bush in the tie-bar, and if it is excessively worn, the complete tie-bar must be renewed. Refitting 11Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but delay fully tightening the bolt which secures the arm to the bracket until the weight of the vehicle is on the rear suspension. On completion, check the operation of the handbrake. Removal 1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on axles stands. Remove both rear wheels. Make sure that the vehicle is supported high enough for the crossmember to be removed. 2Disconnect the handbrake rear cables from the front primary cable, as described in Chapter 9. 3Where applicable, remove the ABS wheel sensors from the rear knuckles, and disconnect the wiring leads from the clips as described in Chapter 9. 4Disconnect the flexible brake hoses from the brackets on both sides of the crossmember, as described in Chapter 9. 5Working on each side of the vehicle, unbolt the tie-bar brackets from the underbody. 6Support the rear suspension crossmember on a trolley jack. 7Unscrew the mounting bolts, and lower the crossmember to the ground (see illustrations). 8If necessary, remove the suspension components from the crossmember as described in the appropriate Sections of this Chapter. Refitting 9Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, noting the following points: (a) When raising the crossmember, note that guide pins are provided to ensure correct alignment (see illustration). (b) Delay fully tightening the suspension mounting bolts until the weight of the vehicle is on the rear suspension. (c) Tighten all bolts to the specified torque. (d) Bleed the brake hydraulic system as described in Chapter 9. (e) Check, and if necessary adjust, the rear wheel toe setting as described in Section 36. Warning: All models are equipped with an air bag system. Make sure that the safety recommendations given in Chapter 12 are followed, to prevent personal injury. Removal 1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). Warning: Before proceeding, wait a minimum of 15 minutes, as a precaution against accidental firing of the air bag unit. This period ensures that any stored energy in the back-up capacitor is dissipated. 27 Steering wheel - removal and refitting 26 Rear suspension crossmember (Estate models) - removal and refitting Suspension and steering systems 10•17 10 26.7A Rear suspension crossmember rear mounting bolt26.7B Rear suspension crossmember front mounting bolt26.9 Guide pin (arrowed) for correct alignment of the rear crossmember 25.7 Bolts (arrowed) securing the rear suspension tie-bar to the knuckle25.8A Tie-bar bracket front bolt (arrowed) on the underbody25.8B Tie-bar bracket rear bolt (arrowed) on the underbody
2Turn the steering wheel so that the front wheels are in the straight-ahead position. 3Unscrew the screws, and remove the steering column upper and lower shrouds. 4From the rear of the steering wheel, unscrew the air bag module mounting screws. 5Carefully lift the module from the steering wheel, and disconnect the air bag multi-plug and horn wiring connections. Warning: Position the air bag module in a safe place, with the mechanism facing downwards as a precaution against accidental operation. 6Make sure that the steering lock is not engaged. Unscrew the retaining bolt from the centre of the steering wheel (see illustration). 7Remove the steering wheel from the top ofthe column, while feeding the horn and air bag wiring through the hole in the steering wheel hub (see illustration). Refitting 8Make sure that the front wheels are still facing straight-ahead, then locate the steering wheel on the top of the steering column. 9Refit the retaining bolt, and tighten it to the specified torque while holding the steering wheel (see illustration). Do not tighten the bolt with the steering lock engaged, as this may damage the lock. 10Reconnect the horn wiring connections and air bag multi-plug. 11Locate the air bag module/horn contact on the steering wheel, then insert the mounting screws and tighten them.12Refit the steering column upper and lower shrouds. Insert and tighten the screws. 13Reconnect the battery negative lead. Warning: All models are equipped with an air bag system. Make sure that the safety recommendations given in Chapter 12 are followed, to prevent personal injury. Removal 1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). Warning: Before proceeding, wait a minimum of 15 minutes, as a precaution against accidental firing of the air bag unit. This period ensures that any stored energy in the back-up capacitor is dissipated. 2Turn the steering wheel so that the front wheels are in the straight-ahead position. 3Remove the ignition key, then turn the steering wheel slightly as necessary until the steering lock engages. 4Unscrew the screws, and remove the steering column lower and upper shrouds. As the lower shroud is being removed, it will be necessary to remove the rubber ring from the ignition switch/steering lock (see illustrations). 28 Steering column - removal, inspection and refitting 10•18 Suspension and steering systems 27.6 Removing the steering wheel retaining bolt27.7 Feeding the horn and air bag wiring through the hole in the steering wheel hub27.9 Tightening the steering wheel retaining bolt 28.4C . . . and remove the lower shroud28.4D Upper shroud retaining screws (arrowed) 28.4A Unscrew the screws from the lower shroud . . .28.4B . . . remove the rubber ring . . . 28.4E Removing the upper shroud
5Remove the driver’s side lower facia panel (see Chapter 11). 6Unscrew the clamp plate bolt securing the steering column shaft to the flexible coupling. Swivel the clamp plate around, and disengage it from the flexible coupling stub (see illustrations). 7Release the cable tie from the wiring loom at the steering column, and disconnect the multi-plugs (see illustrations). 8Unscrew and remove the steering column mounting bolts, then slide the column upwards to disengage the retaining tab from the groove in the cross-beam bracket, and withdraw it from inside the vehicle (see illustrations). Inspection 9With the steering column removed, check the universal joints for wear, and examine thecolumn upper and lower shafts for any signs of damage or distortion (see illustration). Where evident, the column should be renewed complete. 10Examine the height adjustment lever mechanism for wear and damage (see illustration). 11With the steering lock disengaged, turn the inner column, and check the upper and lower bearings for smooth operation. The bearings are obtainable separately, and should be renewed if necessary. Dismantling and reassembly of the column assembly is a relatively easy operation. Refitting 12Locate the steering column on its bracket, making sure that the tab slides down into the groove correctly.13Insert the mounting bolts and tighten to the specified torque (see illustration). 14Reconnect the multi-plugs, and secure the wiring loom with the cable tie. Suspension and steering systems 10•19 10 28.9 Steering column and universal joint28.10 Height adjustment lever mechanism28.13 Tightening the steering column mounting bolts 28.7C . . . and main multi-plug from the steering column28.8A Steering column mounting bolt locations (arrowed)28.8B Removing the steering column 28.6A Unscrew the clamp plate bolt . . .28.6B . . . and swivel the clamp plate around28.7A Disconnecting the multi-plug from the ignition switch 28.7B Disconnecting the small multi-plug . . .
15Locate the steering column shaft on the flexible coupling, swivel the clamp plate round, then insert the bolt and tighten to the specified torque. 16Refit the driver’s side lower trim panel. 17Refit the steering column upper and lower shrouds. 18Reconnect the battery negative lead. Removal 1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2Turn the steering wheel so that the front wheels are in the straight-ahead position. Remove the ignition key, then turn the steering wheel slightly as necessary until the steering lock engages. 3Unscrew the clamp plate bolt securing the steering column shaft to the flexible coupling. Swivel the clamp plate around, and disengage it from the flexible coupling stub. 4Carefully prise the rubber boot from the bulkhead, and withdraw it into the passenger compartment. Take care not to damage the sealing lip of the boot. 5Using an Allen key, unscrew the clamp bolt securing the flexible coupling to the pinion shaft on the steering gear, and withdraw the coupling from inside the vehicle. Refitting 6Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but tighten the clamp bolts to the specified torque. Make sure that the rubber boot engages correctly in the bulkhead and on the flexible coupling. Removal 1Remove the steering column flexible coupling as described in Section 29. 2Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frontof the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove both front wheels. 3Working beneath the vehicle, unbolt the rear engine mounting from the transmission and underbody. 4Extract the split pins from the track rod end balljoint nuts, then unscrew the nuts, and detach the rods from the arms on the steering knuckles using a conventional balljoint removal tool. Take care not to damage the balljoint seals. 5Position a suitable container beneath the steering gear, then unscrew the union nuts securing the power steering fluid supply, return, and cooler lines to the steering gear. Identify the lines for position, then unbolt the clamps, disconnect the lines, and allow the fluid to drain into the container. Cover the apertures in the steering gear and also the ends of the fluid pipes, to prevent the ingress of dust and dirt into the hydraulic circuit. 6Unscrew and remove the steering gear mounting bolts. The bolts are located on top of the steering gear, and are difficult to reach. Ideally, the special U-shaped Ford spanner should be used, but it is just possible to reach them with a normal spanner (see illustration). 7Withdraw the steering gear through the wheel arch. Refitting 8If the steering gear is being replaced with a new one, the new unit will be supplied together with union nuts already fitted. The new nuts must only be used with new feed and return lines - otherwise, they must be removed and discarded. If the original lines and union nuts are being used, the Teflon rings on the union nuts must be renewed. To do this, the rings must be expanded individually onto a fitting adaptor (see illustration), then located in the grooves of the union nuts. 9Locate the steering gear on the subframe, and insert the two mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque (see illustration). Note that, if the special Ford tool is being used, the bottom of the tool must be turned anti-clockwise in order to tighten the mounting bolts.10Remove the covers from the apertures on the steering gear, then reconnect the fluid lines and tighten the union nuts to the specified torque. Refit the clamps and tighten the bolts. 11Refit the track rod end balljoints to the steering knuckles, and tighten the nuts to the specified torque. Check that the split pin holes are aligned; if necessary, turn the nuts to the nearest alignment, making sure that the torque wrench setting is still within the specified range. Insert new split pins, and bend them back to secure. 12Refit the rear engine mounting to the transmission and underbody, and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 13Refit the front wheels, and lower the vehicle to the ground. 14Refit the steering column flexible coupling with reference to Section 29. 15Bleed the power steering hydraulic system as described in Section 33. 16Have the front wheel alignment checked, and if necessary adjusted, at the earliest opportunity (refer to Section 36).Removal 1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2Working inside the vehicle, unscrew the clamp plate bolt securing the steering column shaft to the flexible coupling. Swivel the clamp plate around, and disengage it from the flexible coupling stub. 3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove both wheels. 4On manual transmission models, disconnect the gearchange linkage and support rods from the transmission, as described in Chapter 7, Part A. 5Remove the exhaust downpipe complete, as described in Chapter 4. 6Remove the cover from under the radiator by unscrewing the screws and releasing the clips. 31 Power steering gear (left-hand-drive models with ABS) - removal and refitting 30 Power steering gear (all except left-hand-drive models with ABS) - removal and refitting 29 Steering column flexible coupling - removal and refitting 10•20 Suspension and steering systems 30.6 U-shaped Ford spanner for unscrewing the steering gear mounting bolts 30.8 Using an adaptor to fit the Teflon rings to the union nuts 1 Adaptor 2 Teflon ring 3 Union nut 4 Groove location for the Teflon ring 30.9 Tightening the steering gear mounting bolts using the U-shaped spanner (arrowed)
7Support the radiator in its raised position, by inserting split pins through the small holes in the radiator mounting extensions which protrude through the upper mountings (see illustration). 8Unbolt and remove the radiator lower mounting brackets. 9Where applicable, unscrew the bolts securing the air conditioning accumulator to the subframe. 10Working beneath the vehicle, unbolt the engine rear mounting from the transmission and underbody. 11Unscrew the front engine mounting-to- cylinder block bolts, and also the through- bolt. 12Extract the split pins from the track rod end balljoint nuts, then unscrew the nuts, and detach the rods from the arms on the steering knuckles using a conventional balljoint removal tool. Take care not to damage the balljoint seals. 13Working on each side in turn, unscrew the mounting nuts, and remove the anti-roll bar links from the front suspension struts. Note that, on models fitted with ABS, the ABS sensor wiring support brackets are located beneath the nuts. 14Working on each side in turn, note which way round the front suspension lower arm balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then unscrew and remove it from the knuckle assembly. Lever the balljoint down from the knuckle - if it is tight, prise the joint open carefully using a large flat-bladed tool. Take care not to damage the balljoint seal during the separation procedure. 15Support the weight of the front subframe assembly on two trolley jacks (or two scissor jacks). 16Unscrew and remove the subframe mounting bolts, then lower the subframe sufficiently to gain access to the power steering fluid pipes on top of the steering gear. Note that the front subframe mountingbolts are gold in colour - the rear ones are silver. 17Position a suitable container beneath the steering gear, then unscrew the union nuts securing the power steering fluid supply, return, and cooler lines to the steering gear. Identify the lines for position, then unbolt the clamps, disconnect the lines, and allow the fluid to drain into the container. Cover the apertures in the steering gear and also the ends of the fluid pipes, to prevent the ingress of dust and dirt into the hydraulic circuit. 18Lower the subframe, together with the power steering gear, to the ground. 19Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the power steering gear from the subframe. 20Using a suitable Allen key, unscrew the clamp bolt securing the flexible coupling to the pinion shaft on the steering gear, and withdraw the coupling. 21Refer to Section 30, paragraph 8 for details of renewing the Teflon rings.Refitting 22Refit the flexible coupling to the pinion shaft on the steering gear, then insert and tighten the clamp bolt using an Allen key. 23Locate the power steering gear on the subframe, then insert the mounting bolts and tighten to the specified torque. 24Raise the subframe until it is possible to refit the fluid lines. Tighten the union nuts and clamps. 25Raise the subframe, making sure that the alignment holes are in line with the holes in the underbody. At the same time, make sure that the flexible coupling locates correctly on the steering column. Ford technicians use a special tool to ensure that the subframe is correctly aligned - refer to Chapter 2 for more details of the alignment procedure. With the subframe aligned, insert and tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque. Note that the front mounting bolts are gold in colour - the rear bolts are silver. 26Working on each side in turn, refit the front suspension lower arm balljoint to the knuckle assembly, and insert the clamp bolt with its head facing forwards. Refit the nut and tighten to the specified torque. 27Working on each side in turn, refit the anti-roll bar links and tighten the mounting nuts to the specified torque. On models fitted with ABS, don’t forget to locate the wheel sensor wiring support brackets beneath the nuts. 28Refit the track rod end balljoints to the steering knuckles, and tighten the nuts to the specified torque. Check if the split pin holes are aligned, and if necessary turn the nuts to the nearest alignment, making sure that the torque wrench setting is still within the specified range. Insert new split pins, and bend them back to secure. 29Refit and tighten the engine front mounting bolts. 30Refit the engine rear mounting and tighten the bolts.31Where applicable, insert and tighten the air conditioning accumulator bolts. 32Refit the radiator lower mounting brackets and tighten the bolts. 33Remove the split pins supporting the radiator in its raised position. 34Refit the cover under the radiator. 35Refit the exhaust downpipe as described in Chapter 4. 36On manual transmission models, reconnect the gearchange linkage and support rods. 37Refit the front wheels, and lower the vehicle to the ground. 38Working inside the vehicle, reconnect the steering column clamp plate, then insert the bolt and tighten to the specified torque. 39Reconnect the battery negative lead. 40Bleed the power steering hydraulic system as described in Section 33. 41Have the front wheel alignment checked, and if necessary adjusted, at the earliest opportunity (refer to Section 36). 1Remove the track rod end and its locknut from the track rod, as described in Section 35. Make sure that a note is made of the exact position of the track rod end on the track rod, in order to retain the front wheel alignment setting on refitting. 2Release the outer retaining clip and inner plastic clamp band, and disconnect the gaiter from the steering gear housing. 3Disconnect the breather from the gaiter, then slide the gaiter off the track rod. 4Scrape off all grease from the old gaiter, and apply to the track rod inner joint. Wipe clean the seating areas on the steering gear housing and track rod. 5Slide the new gaiter onto the track rod and steering gear housing, and reconnect the breather. 6Fit a new inner plastic clamp band and outer retaining clip. 7Refit the track rod end as described in Section 35. 8Have the front wheel alignment checked, and if necessary adjusted, at the earliest opportunity (refer to Section 36). 1Following any operation in which the power steering fluid lines have been disconnected, the power steering system must be bled, to remove any trapped air. 2With the front wheels in the straight-ahead position, check the power steering fluid level in the reservoir and, if low, add fresh fluid until it reaches the “MAX” or “MAX COLD” mark. Pour the fluid slowly, to prevent air bubbles forming, and use only the specified fluid (refer to Chapter 1 Specifications). 33 Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding 32 Power steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal Suspension and steering systems 10•21 10 31.7 Method of supporting the radiator in its raised position 1 Radiator upper mounting extension 2 Small hole 3 Pin or split pin inserted through hole
3Start the engine, and allow it to run at a fast idle. Check the hoses and connections for leaks. 4Stop the engine, and recheck the fluid level. Add more if necessary, up to the “MAX” or “MAX COLD” mark. 5Start the engine again, allow it to idle, then bleed the system by slowly turning the steering wheel from side to side several times. This should purge the system of all internal air. However, if air remains in the system (indicated by the steering operation being very noisy), leave the vehicle overnight, and repeat the procedure again the next day. 6If air still remains in the system, it may be necessary to resort to the Ford method of bleeding, which uses a vacuum pump. Turn the steering to the right until it is near the stop, then fit the vacuum pump to the fluid reservoir, and apply 0.15 bars of vacuum. Maintain the vacuum for a minimum of 5 minutes, then repeat the procedure with the steering turned to the left. 7Keep the fluid level topped-up throughout the bleeding procedure; note that, as the fluid temperature increases, the level will rise. 8On completion, switch off the engine, and return the front wheels to the straight-ahead position. Removal 1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the hydraulic fluid line support to the engine lifting bracket on the right-hand side of the engine. 3Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the hydraulic fluid line support to the pump mounting bracket. 4Position a suitable container beneath the power steering pump, to catch spilt fluid. 5Loosen the clip, and disconnect the fluid supply hose from the pump inlet. Plug the hose, to prevent the ingress of dust and dirt. 6Unscrew the union nut, and disconnect the high-pressure line from the pump. Allow the fluid to drain into the container. 7Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the right-hand front wheel. 8Unbolt and remove the lower drivebelt cover. 9Using a spanner, rotate the drivebelt tensioner in a clockwise direction to release the belt tension, then slip the drivebelt off the pulleys and remove from the vehicle. Refer to Chapter 1 if necessary. 10Unscrew and remove the four mounting bolts, and withdraw the power steering pump from its bracket. Access to the bolts on the right-hand side of the engine is gained by turning the pump pulley until a hole lines up with the bolt. Refitting 11Locate the power steering pump on the mounting bracket, and secure with the four bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 12Slip the drivebelt over the pulleys, then rotate the drivebelt tensioner in a clockwise direction, and locate the drivebelt on it. Release the tensioner to tension the drivebelt. 13Refit the lower belt cover. 14Refit the right-hand front wheel, and lower the vehicle to the ground. 15If necessary, the sealing ring on the high- pressure outlet should be renewed, using the same procedure as described in Section 30, paragraph 8. 16Reconnect the high-pressure line to the pump, and tighten the union nut. 17Reconnect the fluid supply hose to the pump inlet, and tighten the clip. 18Refit the hydraulic fluid line support to the pump mounting bracket, and tighten the bolt. 19Refit the hydraulic fluid line support to the engine lifting bracket on the right-hand side of the engine, and tighten the bolt. 20Reconnect the battery negative lead. 21Bleed the power steering hydraulic system as described in Section 33. 1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the appropriate front roadwheel. 2Using a suitable spanner, slacken the locknut on the track rod by a quarter-turn. Hold the track rod end stationary with another spanner engaged with the special flats while loosening the locknut. 3Extract the split pin, then unscrew and remove the track rod end balljoint retaining nut. 4To release the tapered shank of the balljoint from the steering knuckle arm, use a balljoint separator tool (if the balljoint is to be re-used, take care not to damage the dust cover when using the separator tool) (see illustration). 5Count the number of exposed threads visible on the inner section of the track rod, and record this figure. 6Unscrew the track rod end from the track rod, counting the number of turns necessary to remove it. If necessary, hold the track rod stationary with grips. Refitting 7Screw the track rod end onto the track rod by the number of turns noted during removal, until it just contacts the locknut. 8Engage the shank of the balljoint with the steering knuckle arm, and refit the nut. Tighten the nut to the specified torque. If the balljoint shank turns while the nut is being tightened, press down on the balljoint. The tapered fit of the shank will lock it, and prevent rotation as the nut is tightened.9Check that the split pin holes in the nut and balljoint shank are aligned. If necessary turn the nut to the nearest alignment, making sure that the torque wrench setting is still within the specified range. Insert a new split pin, and bend it back to secure. 10Now tighten the locknut, while holding the track rod end as before. 11Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the ground. 12Finally check, and if necessary adjust, the front wheel alignment as described in Sec- tion 29. 1Accurate front wheel alignment is essential to provide positive steering, and to prevent excessive tyre wear. Before considering the steering/suspension geometry, check that the tyres are correctly inflated, that the front wheels are not buckled, and that the steering linkage and suspension joints are in good order, without slackness or wear. 2Wheel alignment consists of four factors (see illustration): Camberis the angle at which the front wheels are set from the vertical, when viewed from the front of the vehicle. “Positive camber” is the amount (in degrees) that the wheels are tilted outward at the top of the vertical. Castoris the angle between the steering axis and a vertical line, when viewed from each side of the car. “Positive castor” is when the steering axis is inclined rearward at the top. Steering axis inclinationis the angle (when viewed from the front of the vehicle) between the vertical and an imaginary line drawn through the suspension strut upper mounting and the lower suspension arm balljoint. Toe settingis the amount by which the distance between the front inside edges of the roadwheels (measured at hub height) differs from the diametrically-opposite distance measured between the rear inside edges of the front roadwheels. 3With the exception of the toe setting, all other steering angles are set during manufacture, and no adjustment is possible. It 36 Wheel alignment and steering angles - general information35 Track rod end - renewal34 Power steering pump - removal and refitting 10•22 Suspension and steering systems 35.4 Using a balljoint separator tool to release the track rod end balljoint
can be assumed, therefore, that unless the vehicle has suffered accident damage, all the preset steering angles will be correct. Should there be some doubt about their accuracy, it will be necessary to seek the help of a Ford dealer, as special gauges are needed to check the steering angles. 4Two methods are available to the home mechanic for checking the toe setting. One method is to use a gauge to measure the distance between the front and rear inside edges of the roadwheels. The other method is to use a scuff plate, in which each front wheel is rolled across a movable plate which records any deviation, or scuff, of the tyre from the straight-ahead position as it moves across the plate. Relatively-inexpensive equipment of both types is available from accessory outlets. 5If, after checking the toe setting using whichever method is preferable, it is found that adjustment is necessary, proceed as follows. 6Turn the steering wheel onto full-left lock, and record the number of exposed threads on the right-hand track rod. Now turn the steering onto full-right lock, and record the number of threads on the left-hand track rod.If there are the same number of threads visible on both sides, then subsequent adjustment can be made equally on both sides. If there are more threads visible on one side than the other, it will be necessary to compensate for this during adjustment. After adjustment, there must be the same number of threads visible on each track rod. This is most important. 7To alter the toe setting, slacken the locknut on the track rod, and turn the track rod using self-locking pliers to achieve the desired setting. When viewed from the side of the car, turning the rod clockwise will increase the toe-in, turning it anti-clockwise will increase the toe-out. Only turn the track rods by a quarter of a turn each time, and then recheck the setting. 8After adjustment, tighten the locknuts. Reposition the steering gear rubber gaiters, to remove any twist caused by turning the track rods. 9The rear wheel toe-setting may also be checked and adjusted, but as this additionally requires alignment with the front wheels, it should be left to a Ford garage or specialist having the special equipment required. Suspension and steering systems 10•23 10 36.2 Wheel alignment and steering angles
Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings Body side-trim mouldings and adhesive emblems - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Bonnet lock - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Bonnet release cable and lever - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Boot lid - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Boot lid lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Central locking system components - testing, removal and refitting . 23 Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Door - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Door handle and lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 14 Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Door window regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Exterior mirror and glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Facia - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Glovebox - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Interior mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Interior trim panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Maintenance - bodywork and underframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Overhead console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Sunroof - general information and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Tailgate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Tailgate lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Tailgate support strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Wheel arch liner - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Windscreen and fixed windows - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 24 Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft Bonnet and tailgate hinges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18 Boot lid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7 Front seat mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 28 Seat belt mounting nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 28 Bumper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7 11•1 Easy,suitable for novice with little experienceFairly easy,suitable for beginner with some experienceFairly difficult,suitable for competent DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for experienced DIY mechanicVery difficult, suitable for expert DIY or professional Degrees of difficulty Specifications Contents 11 The bodyshell and underframe on all models is of all-steel welded construction, incorporating progressive crumple zones at the front and rear, and a rigid centre safety cell. The bulkhead behind the engine compartment incorporates crash grooves which determine its energy-absorption characteristics, and special beams to prevent the intrusion of the front wheels into the passenger compartment during a serious accident. All passenger doors incorporate side impact bars. All sheet metal surfaces which are prone tocorrosion are galvanized. The painting process includes a base colour which closely matches the final topcoat, so that any stone damage is not noticeable. Hatchback, Saloon and Estate versions are available. The front section of the vehicle up to the “B” pillar is identical on all models. Automatic seat belts are fitted to all models, and the front seat belt stalks are mounted on automatic tensioners (also known as “grabbers”) (see illustration). In the event of a serious front impact, a spring mass sensor releases a coil spring which pulls the stalk buckle downwards and tensions the seat belt. It is not possible to reset the tensioner once fired, and it must therefore be renewed. In the UK, central locking is standard on all 1 General information 1.4 Automatic seat belt tensioner 1 Coil spring 3 Spring mass sensor 2 Lever system
models (see illustration). In other countries, it is available on certain models only. Where double-locking is fitted, the lock mechanism is disconnected (when the system is in use) from the interior door handles, making it impossible to open any of the doors or the tailgate/bootlid from inside the vehicle. This means that, even if a thief should break a side window, he will not be able to open the door using the interior handle. Models with the double-locking system are fitted with a control module located beneath the facia on the right-hand side. In the event of a serious accident, a crash sensor unlocks all doors if they were previously locked. Many of the procedures in this Chapter require the battery to be disconnected. Refer to Chapter 5, Section 1 first. The general condition of a vehicle’s bodywork is the one thing that significantly affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after minor damage, can lead quickly to further deterioration and costly repair bills. It is important also to keep watch on those parts of the vehicle not immediately visible, for instance the underside, inside all the wheel arches, and the lower part of the engine compartment. The basic maintenance routine for the bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of water, from a hose. This will remove all the loose solids which may have stuck to the vehicle. It is important to flush these off in such a way as to prevent grit from scratching the finish. The wheel arches and underframe need washing in the same way, to remove any accumulated mud, which will retain moisture and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically enough, the best time to clean the underframe and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of large accumulations automatically, and this is a good time for inspection. Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax- based underbody protective coating, it is a good idea to have the whole of the underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned, engine compartment included, so that a thorough inspection can be carried out to see what minor repairs and renovations are necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at many garages, and is necessary for the removal of the accumulation of oily grime, which sometimes is allowed to become thick in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are not available, there are some excellent grease solvents available which can be brush- applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off. Note that these methods should not be used on vehicles with wax-based underbodyprotective coating, or the coating will be removed. Such vehicles should be inspected annually, preferably just prior to Winter, when the underbody should be washed down, and any damage to the wax coating repaired. Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be applied. It would also be worth considering the use of such wax-based protection for injection into door panels, sills, box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard against rust damage, where such protection is not provided by the vehicle manufacturer. After washing paintwork, wipe off with a chamois leather to give an unspotted clear finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish will give added protection against chemical pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheenhas dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher combination to restore the brilliance of the shine. This requires a little effort, but such dulling is usually caused because regular washing has been neglected. Care needs to be taken with metallic paintwork, as special non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid damage to the finish. Always check that the door and ventilator opening drain holes and pipes are completely clear, so that water can be drained out. Brightwork should be treated in the same way as paintwork. Windscreens and windows can be kept clear of the smeary film which often appears, by the use of proprietary glass cleaner. Never use any form of wax or other body or chromium polish on glass. 2 Maintenance - bodywork and underframe 11•2 Bodywork and fittings 1.5 Central locking component locations 1 Indicator light 2 Buzzer 3 Central locking module4 Infra-red receiver 5 Lock motor 6 Set/reset switch7 Ajar switch 8 Infra-red transmitter
Mats and carpets should be brushed or vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging, and make quite sure they are dry before refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they do become stained (which can be more apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to scour the grime out of the grain of the material. Do not forget to keep the headlining clean in the same way as the upholstery. When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle, do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp could get into the seams and padded interior, causing stains, offensive odours or even rot. Note:For more detailed information about bodywork repair, Haynes Publishing produce a book by Lindsay Porter called “The Car Bodywork Repair Manual”. This incorporates information on such aspects as rust treatment, painting and glass-fibre repairs, as well as details on more ambitious repairs involving welding and panel beating. Repairs of minor scratches in bodywork If the scratch is very superficial, and does not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with clean water. Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers of paint until the surface of the paint in the scratch is level with the surrounding paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then blend it into the surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish. Where the scratch has penetrated right through to the metal of the bodywork, causingthe metal to rust, a different repair technique is required. Remove any loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep it across the surface of the stopper-paste in the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier in this Section. Repairs of dents in bodywork When deep denting of the vehicle’s bodywork has taken place, the first task is to pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork almost attains its original shape. There is little point in trying to restore the original shape completely, as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact, and cannot be reshaped fully to its original contour. It is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is about 3 mm below the level of the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind, using a mallet with a wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this, hold a suitable block of wood firmly against the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact from the hammer blows and thus prevent a large area of the bodywork from being “belled-out”. Should the dent be in a section of the bodywork which has a double skin, or some other factor making it inaccessible from behind, a different technique is called for. Drill several small holes through the metal inside the area - particularly in the deeper section. Then screw long self-tapping screws into the holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads of the screws with a pair of pliers. The next stage of the repair is the removal of the paint from the damaged area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding “sound” bodywork. This is accomplished most easily by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a power drill, although it can be done just as effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive paper. To complete the preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or the tang of a file, or alternatively, drill small holes in the affected area. This will provide a really good “key” for the filler paste. To complete the repair, see the Section on filling and respraying. Repairs of rust holes or gashes in bodywork Remove all paint from the affected area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding “sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire brush on a power drill. If these are not available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will do the job most effectively. With the paint removed, you will be able to judge the severity of the corrosion, and therefore decide whether to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or to repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as most people think, and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large areas of corrosion. Remove all fittings from the affected area, except those which will act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and any other metal badly affected by corrosion. Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in order to create a slight depression for the filler paste. Wire-brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the surface of the remaining metal. Paint the affected area with rust-inhibiting paint, if the back of the rusted area is accessible, treat this also. Before filling can take place, it will be necessary to block the hole in some way. This can be achieved by the use of aluminium or plastic mesh, or aluminium tape. Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre matting, is probably the best material to use for a large hole. Cut a piece to the approximate size and shape of the hole to be filled, then position it in the hole so that its edges are below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It can be retained in position by several blobs of filler paste around its periphery. Aluminium tape should be used for small or very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim it to the approximate size and shape required, then pull off the backing paper (if used) and stick the tape over the hole; it can be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the tape with the handle of a screwdriver or similar, to ensure that the tape is securely attached to the metal underneath. Bodywork repairs - filling and respraying Before using this Section, see the Sections on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash repairs. Many types of bodyfiller are available, but generally speaking, those proprietary kits which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be found invaluable for imparting a smooth and well-contoured finish to the surface of the filler. 4 Minor body damage - repair 3 Maintenance - upholstery and carpets Bodywork and fittings 11•3 11 If the inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally, it is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry it out properly, particularly where carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters inside the vehicle for this purpose.