Brother 3034 D Manual

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English
CHAPTER 4
SEWING MATERIALS,THREADS AND NEEDLES COMPARISON CHART
Needle
SCHMETZ
130/705H
#80
SCHMETZ
130/705H
#80
SCHMETZ
130/705H
#80
#90
SCHMETZ
130/705H
#80
#90
SCHMETZ
130/705H
#90Material
Fine materials:
Georgette
Lawn
Organdy
Tricot
Fine materials:
Georgette
Lawn
Organdy
Tricot
Medium materials:
Broad cloth
Gabardine
Serge
Medium materials:
Broad cloth
Heavy materials:
Tweed
Denim
KnitsStitch
Overlock stitch
Narrow over lock/
Rolled
hemming stitch
Overlock stitch
Narrow over lock/
Rolled
hemming stitch
Overlock stitchStitch Length
 (mm)
2.0-3.0
R-2.0
2.5-3.5
R-2.0
3.0-4.0Thread
Spun #80-90
Cotton #100
Tetron #80-100
Needle thread :
Spun #80-90
Tetron #80-100
Looper thread :
Woolly nylon thread
Spun #80-90
Tetron #80-100
Spun #60-80
Cotton #60-80
Tetron #60-80
Needle thread :
Spun #60-80
Tetron #60-80
Looper thread :
Woolly nylon thread
Spun #60-80
Tetron #60-80
Cotton #50-60
Spun #60
Tetron #50-60
NOTE:
Decorative thread will work best in the upper looper for fashion sewing. 
						

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CHAPTER 5
SEWING
Stitch selection
Select the stitch pattern before you start sewing.
This sewing machine can sew five different
stitches by following the simple steps below:
Four-thread overlock stitch
Use all four threads and two needles for
producing four-thread overlock stitches.
Use: Produces strong seam. Ideal for sewing knits
and wovens.
Three-thread overlock stitch
5 mm (3/16 inch)
Use three threads and the left needle, producing 5
mm (3/16 inch) seams.
Use: For overlock stitching on suits, blouses,
slacks, etc. Ideal for medium to heavy materials.
NOTE:
Remove the right needle when sewing this overlock
stitch.
Three-thread overlock stitch 2.8 mm
(7/64 inch)
Use three threads and the right needle, producing
2.8 mm (7/64 inch) seams.
Use: For overlock stitching on suits, blouses,
slacks, etc. Ideal for fine to medium materials.
NOTE:
Remove the left needle when sewing this overlock
stitch.
Narrow overlock stitch 2.0mm (5/64
inch) and
Rolled hemming stitch 2.0mm (5/64
inch)
Use as decorative or finishing stitch. See Narrow
overlock/ Rolled hemming stitch in this chapter
for details.
NOTE:
You can use the optional accessory foot for even more
varieties of stitches. See CHAPTER 8 for details.
Test sewing
Test-sew before you start sewing.
1. Set all the thread tension to 4.
2. Thread the machine and pull all threads out
about 15 cm (6 inches) behind the presser
foot.
3. Place a piece of scrap material under the
presser foot for test sewing.
NOTE:
Always lift the presser foot before placing the fabric
under it. You cannot start sewing by just running the
fabric under the foot without lifting the presser foot. 
						

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English
2. Lift the presser foot and place the material well
underneath the presser foot before starting to
sew. Slowly sew a few stitches by turning the
hand wheel.
3. The fabric will be fed automatically. You need
only guide it in the required direction.
4. Check the stitch formation (stitch chain) to see
if it is uniform. If the stitch is not uniform, re-
check that the threading has been done
properly and in sequence.
5. Follow the Seam Allowance Guide for
consistent cutting of the fabric seams. The
scale of Seam Allowance Guide shows 9.5,
12.7, 15.9, and 25.4mm (3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 1
inches) when the stitch width dial is set to 5.
123
1 Presser foot   2 Upper knife  3 Seam Allowance Guide
To remove work
When the seam is finished, keep the machine
running at a low speed to obtain chaining-off.
Then cut the stitches 5 cm (2 inches) from the
work. If feeding for chaining-off is not enough, pull
the thread gently.
4. Holding all threads with your left hand, turn the
hand wheel slowly a few times toward you,
and check to see that the threads entwine
themselves before using the foot controller to
sew.
Chaining-off
After test-sewing, continue to depress the foot
controller slightly and chain off 10cm (4 inches).
The threads will entwine themselves into a chain
automatically.
NOTE:
If the thread tension is not correctly balanced, the
chaining-off result will be uneven. If this happens, pull
the threads slightly. Check the threading order and
adjust the thread tension to create an even chain. (See
CHAPTER 1 Tension adjustment dial.)
To start sewing
1. Thread the machine and pull all threads out
about 15 cm (6 inches) behind the presser
foot. 
						

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To secure chain
There are two methods available to secure the
chain.
Method 1
Secure the chain of the beginning and the end of
a stitch with your machine.
At the beginning of a stitch
1. Sew a few stitches, after chaining-off for 5cm
(2 inches).
2. Stop the machine and raise the presser foot.
3. Put the chain under the presser foot, and serge
over it pulling toward you.
4. After sewing a few stitches, cut off the extra
chain with the knife as illustrated.
At the end of a stitch
1. At the end of the seam, sew one stitch out of
the fabric before stopping the machine.
2. Raise the presser foot and the needles, then
reverse the fabric.
3. Lower the needles and the presser foot at the
same position.
4. Serge over the seam, taking care not to cut the
serged seam with a knife.
5. After sewing a few stitches, serge off the fabric
as illustrated.
6. Cut the threads with scissors.
Method 2
WIth this method, the chain of the beginning and
the end of a stitch can be secured in the same
manner.
1. Tie the thread unpicked from chain.
2. Insert the chain into the end of the seam, using
a hand sewing needle with large eye.
3. Fix the chain with a drop of fabric glue, and cut
the extra stitches after drying. 
						

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English
If threads break during sewing
Remove the material and re-thread in the correct
order, Lower looper, Upper looper, right needle
and then the left needle (to re-thread, see
CHAPTER 3 Threading). Replace the material
under the presser foot and sew 3-5 cm (1-1/8 to 2
inches) over the previous stitches.
 CAUTION
Do not leave straight pins in the fabric when
sewing as they will damage the needles and
knives.
To sew fine materials
1. Adjust the presser foot pressure to prevent the
material from puckering and to allow sewing of
curves. (See CHAPTER 1 Adjusting the
presser foot pressure.)
2. Loosen the thread tension, but remember that
if the tension is too loose, the thread may
break and stitches may be skipped.
Narrow overlock/ Rolled hemming stitch
The Narrow overlock/Rolled hemming stitch is a
decorative finish for lightweight to midweight
fabrics. It is often used to complete the edge of a
fabric. This stitch is sewn by removing the left
needle and using the 3-thread overlock stitch.
Instructions for both narrow overlock/
Rolled hemming stitches
 CAUTION
Turn off the main power and light switch beforeremoving/ installing a needle.
1. Remove the left needle.
NOTE:
For the recommended thread and needle, see
CHAPTER 4 Sewing materials, threads, and
needles comparison chart.
2. Thread the machine for a three thread
overlock, using the right needle.
3. Remove the stitch finger .
1 Raise the presser foot lever.
2 Pull all threads toward the back of the
machine.
3 Check to make sure that the thread is no
longer wrapped around the stitch finger.
4 Open the front cover.
5 Turn the hand wheel until the upperlooper
is at its lowest position.
6 Pull the stitch finger to the right and remove
it.
 
						

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Storage for the stitch finger  is provided
on the inside of the front cover.

NOTE:
Make sure to install stitch finger when sewing
regular overlock stitches.
4. Adjust the stitch width dial up to the R
position.

 Selection mark
5. Adjust the stitch length.
Set the stitch length adjustment dial to R to 2
position (for narrow overlock stitch: R to 2, for
rolled hemming stitch: R).
3

 Selection mark 
						

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English
Chart of narrow overlock/ Rolled hemming stitch
Stitch Style
Materials
Needle thread
Upper looper thread
Lower looper thread
Stitch Length
Stitch Width
Stitch Finger
Thread Tension
Needle Thread
Upper looper Thread
Lower looper Thread
Rolled hemming stitch
Underside of material
Top of material
See CHAPTER 4 Sewing materials,
threads, and needles comparison chart.
See CHAPTER 4 Sewing materials,
threads, and needles comparison chart.
See CHAPTER 4 Sewing materials,
threads, and needles comparison chart.
See CHAPTER 4 Sewing materials,
threads, and needles comparison chart.
R
R
Removed
For fine materials
4 (3 - 5)
5 (4 - 6)
7 (6 - 8)
Narrow overlock stitch
Underside of material
Top of material
See CHAPTER 4 Sewing
materials, threads, and needles
comparison chart.
See CHAPTER 4 Sewing
materials, threads, and needles
comparison chart.
See CHAPTER 4 Sewing
materials, threads, and needles
comparison chart.
See CHAPTER 4 Sewing
materials, threads, and needles
comparison chart.
R-2.0
R
Removed
For fine materials
4 (3 - 5)
5 (4 - 6)
5 (4 - 6) For  medium materials
5 (4 - 6)
5 (4 - 6)
7 (6 - 8)For  medium materials
5 (4 - 6)
6 (5 - 7)
6 (5 - 7) 
						

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CHAPTER 6
TROUBLESHOOTING
This sewing machine is designed for trouble-free operation. However, the following chart indicates trouble
which may occur if basic adjustments are not made properly.
Cause
Presser foot pressure too loose
1. Needles bent, or needle tip blunt
2. Needles incorrectly installed
3. Material pulled forcibly
1. Improper threading
2. Thread tangled
3. Thread tension too tight
4. Needles incorrectly installed
5. Wrong needle used
1. Needle bent, or needle tip blunt
2. Needle incorrectly installed
3. Wrong needle used
4. Improper threading
5. Presser foot pressure too loose
Thread tensions are not adjusted
properly
1. Thread tension too tight
2. Improper threading or thread
tangledRemedy
Turn the pressure adjustment screw clockwise to
increase the presser foot pressure.  (See page 9.)
Replace with new needle.  (See page 13.)
Install needles correctly. (See page 13.)
Do not press or pull material too hard when
sewing.
Thread correctly. (See pages 15-18.)
Check spool pin, thread holders, etc. and
remove tangled thread.
Adjust the thread tension. (See pages 10-12.)
Install needles correctly. (See page 13.)
Use correct needle
Schmetz 130/705H - suggested  (See page 13.)
Replace with new needle.   (See page 13.)
Install needle correctly. (See page 13.)
Use correct needle.
Schmetz 130/705H - suggested (See page 13.)
Thread correctly. (See pages 15-18.)
Turn the pressure adjustment screw clockwise to
increase the presser foot pressure.   (See page 9.)
Adjust the thread tension. (See pages 10-12.)
Decrease thread tension when sewing lightweight or fine
material.
(See pages 10-12.)
Thread correctly. (See pages 15-18.) Trouble
1. Does not feed
2. Needles break
3. Threads break
4. Skipped stitches
5. Stitches are not uniform
6. Fabric is puckered 
						

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CHAPTER 7
MAINTENANCE
Changing the light bulb
CAUTION
Turn off the main power and light switch and
unplug the machine before you change the light
bulb. If the main power and light switch is on
when you change the light bulb, you may get an
electric shock. If the machine is on and you step
on the foot controller, you may be injured.
To avoid burns, let the light bulb cool down before
you change it.
1. Loosen the screw with a cross slot screwdriver,
and then remove the lamp cover.
2. Replace the light bulb with a new one.
Parts code of the light bulb:
X53061050 (U.S.A., CANADA)
205336050 (OTHERS)
3. Close the lamp cover and tighten the screw.
Cleaning
CAUTION
Turn off the machine before cleaning.
Turn the hand wheel and move the needles down.
Periodically clean dust, trimmed fabric and thread
with the included cleaning brush.
Oiling
For smooth and silent operation, the moving parts
(indicated with arrows) of the machine should be
oiled periodically.
CAUTION
Turn off the machine before opening the front
cover and oiling.
NOTE:
Be sure to oil your sewing machine before use.
Always clean the lint off your machine before you apply
oil.
Oil the machine once or twice a month for normal use. If
the machine is used more often, oil it once a week. 
						

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CHAPTER 8
INTRODUCTION OF OPTIONAL FEET
6. Lower the presser foot lever, adjust the fabric
guide toward the folded edge.
7. Adjust the guide position of the presser foot
with the adjusting screw so that the needle is
lightly touching the crease in the fabric. In this
case, the thickness of the fabric is the
criterion.
By turning the screw forward (toward you) the
fabric guide will go to the right. By turning the
screw backward (away from you) the fabric
guide will go to the left.


3 Adjusting screw
4 Fabric guide
To adjust the position of the fabric guide, a
piece of the same fabric should be used to do
a sewing test.
8. While folding the fabric by hand, sew so that
the needle just catches the edge of the
crease.
9. Open the fabric as shown in the illustration.
For best results, use a fine thread in a color
that matches the fabric.
When done correctly, this stitch will be very
hard to see on the right side of the fabric.
Flatlock stitching
The Flatlock stitch is primarily used as a
decorative finish on a project. The finished stitch
can look like a ladder or small parallel lines when
the fabric is pulled flat.
Recommended settings
- Stitch Width: 5 mm
- Stitch Length: 2 - 4 mm
- Needle Thread Tension: 0-3
- Upper Looper Thread Tension: 2-5
- Lower Looper Thread Tension: 6-9
CAUTION
Turn off the machine while replacing the presserfoot.
Blind stitch foot
Features
When using the blind stitch presser foot (multi
purpose foot), you can sew blind stitches and
overlock at the same time. This is ideal when
sewing cuffs, trouser bottoms, pockets, and
hemming skirts etc.
The stitch guide on this foot is also useful when
sewing special stitches like flatlock, pin tuck and
other decorative stitches.
Blind stitching
The blind hem stitch is used for putting a near
invisible hem in garments or home decoration
projects. Use it to hem pants, skirts, or draperies.
Recommended settings
- Stitch Width: 5 mm
- Stitch Length: 3 - 4 mm
- Needle Thread Tension: Slightly Slackened (0-2)
- Upper Looper Thread Tension:
Slightly Tightened (5-7)
- Lower Looper Thread Tension:
Slightly Slackened (2-4)
Procedure
1. Attach the blind stitch foot (see CHAPTER 1
Attaching/ Removing presser foot).
2. Set up the machine for 3 thread overlock stitch
with  one needle in the left position.
The right needle should be removed.
3. Turn the wrong side of the fabric out, fold the
fabric once and then back to the required
width, as illustrated.

1 Reverse
2 Needle path
Sewing will be easier if a crease is ironed into
the folded fabric before sewing.
4. Turn the hand wheel so that the line on the
hand wheel is aligned to the line on the
machine (see CHAPTER 1 Turning direction
of hand wheel).
5. Lift the presser foot lever and insert the fabric
with the folded edge on the left in such a way
that the needle pierces just the folded edge as
it sews.