Honda Crf 250 M Manual
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Rear Suspension Adjustments Adjustments for Competition107 Pin spanners should be used for turning the lock nut and adjusting nut. See page 147 for optional pin spanners. Spring pre-load length (Standard spring) Standard:10.29 in (261.3 mm) Min. :9.88 in (251 mm) Spring pre-load length (Optional spring) Min. (Softer, 5.1 kgf/mm): 9.92 in (252 mm) Min. (Stiffer, 5.5 kgf/mm): 9.80 in (249 mm) Min. (Stiffer, 5.7 kgf/mm): 9.88 in (251 mm) The rear suspension can be adjusted for the rider’s weight and riding conditions by changing the spring pre-load and the rebound and compression damping. The rear shock absorber assembly includes a damper unit that contains high pressure nitrogen gas. Do not attempt to disassemble, service, or dispose of the damper; see your Honda dealer. The instructions found in this owner’s manual are limited to adjustments of the shock assembly only. Puncture or exposure to flame may also result in an explosion, causing serious injury. Service or disposal should only be done by your authorized Honda dealer or a qualified mechanic, equipped with the proper tools, safety equipment and the official Honda Service Manual. If your CRF is new, put enough part-throttle break-in time (about one hour) on it to ensure that the suspension has worked in. Rear Suspension Spring Pre-Load Pre-load should be adjusted when the engine is cold because it is necessary to remove the muffler (page 86). An optional pin spanner is available for turning the lock nut and adjusting nut to adjust spring pre-load. 1. Place a workstand under the engine to raise the rear wheel off the ground. 2. Loosen the connecting tube clamp screw and remove the rear subframe’s three mounting bolts, then remove the subframe. See page 32.3. Check that the spring preload is adjusted to the standard length. Adjust as necessary by loosening the lock nut (1) and turning the adjusting nut (2). Each complete turn of the adjuster nut changes the spring length by 1/16 in (1.5 mm). (1) lock nut (3) pin spanners (2) adjusting nut (4) spring length To increase spring pre-load: Loosen the lock nut with the optional pin spanner (3) and turn the adjusting nut to shorten the spring length (4). Do not shorten to less than: 8.5 in (215 mm) T o decrease spring pre-load: Loosen the lock nut with the optional pin spanner (3) and turn the adjusting nut to increase the spring length (4). Do not increase to more than: 10.4 in (264 mm) Each turn of the adjuster changes spring length and spring pre-load. One turn equals: spring length/spring pre-load: 0.06 in (1.5 mm) / 17.5 lbs (7.95 kg) (1) (4) (2) (3)
Rear Suspension Adjustments 108Adjustments for Competition(3) rebound damping adjuster To adjust to the standard position: 1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no longer turn (lightly seat). This is the full hard position. 2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 9 clicks with the punch marks on the adjuster and the shock absorber aligned. Rear Suspension Damping Compression Damping Compression damping may be adjusted in two stages with separate adjusters. The high speed damping adjuster (1) is effective when damping adjustment is desired for high speed operation. The low speed damping adjuster (2) should be used when damping adjustment is desired at relatively low speeds. •Both the high and low speed compression damping can be increased by turning the appropriate adjuster clockwise. •Adjust the high speed compression adjuster in 1/12 turn increments. (1) high speed damping adjuster (2) low speed damping adjuster High Speed Damping: The high speed damping can be adjusted by turning the hexagonal portion of the compression adjuster. To adjust to the standard position: 1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no longer turn (lightly seats). This is the full hard setting. 2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 1-3/4— 2-1/4 turns and the punch marks are aligned. Low Speed Damping: The low speed damping can be adjusted by turning the center screw of the compression adjuster. The low speed compression adjuster has 13 positions or more. Turning the adjuster one full turn clockwise advances the adjuster four positions. To adjust to the standard position: 1. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it will no longer turn (lightly seat). This is the full hard setting. 2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise 7 clicks and the punch marks are aligned. Rebound Damping The rebound damping adjuster (3) is located at the lower end of the shock absorber. It has 17 positions or more. Turning the adjuster one full turn advances the adjuster 9 positions. •Rebound damping can be increased by turning the adjuster clockwise. (2) (1) 1(3)
Rear Suspension Adjustments Adjustments for Competition109 4. Calculate the race sagdimension. To do this, subtract the loaded with rider dimension (step 3) from the unloaded dimension (step 2). Standard Race Sag: 3.9 in (100 mm) Adjust spring pre-load as necessary to obtain the desired handling results. Decreasing the race sag dimension (example: 3.5 in, 90 mm) improves turning ability for tight terrain at the cost of slightly reduced straight line stability. Increasing the race sag dimension (example: 4.3 in, 110 mm) may improve stability on faster terrain with less turns, but will reduce turning performance slightly and may upset the balance between the front and rear suspension, producing a harsher ride. This will happen if the adjustment shifts the effective wheel travel toward the more progressive end of its range. 5. Measure the loaded without riderdimension. Do this with your motorcycle set at the standard race sag. Rear Suspension Race Sag Setting the proper race sag (ride height) is very important for competition use. Race sag refers to the amount of rear wheel travel used by your CRF at rest, ready to ride, with you on the seat. As a general rule of thumb, the race sag dimension should be about one-third of the maximum travel. On your CRF, ride height is changed by adjusting the rear suspension spring pre-load. Spring Pre-load & Race Sag Adjustment The following adjustment procedure establishes the correct starting point for any suspension tuning — the proper rear spring pre-load adjustment for your specific needs. Your CRF should be at normal racing weight, including fuel and transmission oil. You should be wearing all your normal protective apparel. You will need two helpers. To calculate the proper adjustment, it is necessary to measure between two fixed points — from the top of the most rearward point of the subframe down to the machined edge at the rear of the wingarm, as illustrated — for three different situations: unloaded: motorcycle on optional workstand with rear suspension fully extended, no rider. loaded with rider: motorcycle on ground, with rider. loaded without rider: motorcycle on ground, without rider 1. Support your motorcycle on a workstand with the rear wheel off the ground. 2. Measure the unloadeddimension.3. Measure the loaded with riderdimension. Remove the workstand. With two helpers available, – sit as far forward as possible on your CRF’s seat, wearing your riding apparel. Ask one helper to steady your CRF perfectly upright so you can put both feet on the pegs. Bounce your weight on the seat a couple of times to help the suspension overcome any situation and settle to a good reference point. Ask the other helper to measure the loaded with riderdimension. Example: Unloaded= 23.6 in (600 mm) – Loaded= 19.7 in (500 mm) Race Sag= 3.9 in (100 mm) UNLOADED MEASUREMENT (on workstand, without rider) EXAMPLE: 23.6 in (600 mm) LOADED MEASUREMENT (on ground, with rider) EXAMPLE: 19.7 in (500 mm) LOADED MEASUREMENT (on ground without rider) EXAMPLE: 21.6 in (550 mm) Example: Unloaded= 23.6 in (600 mm) – Loaded= 21.6 in (550 mm) Sag= 2.0 in (50 mm) (Without Rider) (cont’d)
Rear Suspension Adjustments 110Adjustments for Competition Because of the great absorption quality of the shock bumper rubber, it may be difficult for you to notice when your CRF’s suspension is bottoming. Some riders may think the damping or perhaps the leverage ratio is too harsh. In reality, the problem is most likely insufficient spring pre-load or a spring that is too soft. Either situation prevents utilizing the full travel. Keep in mind that a properly adjusted suspension system may bottom slightly every few minutes at full speed. Adjusting the suspension to avoid this occasional bottoming may cost more in overall suspension performance than it is worth. A spring that is too firm for your weight will not allow the rear tire to hook up under acceleration and will pass more bumps on to you. 6. Calculate the free sagdimension. To do this, subtract the loaded without rider dimension (step 5) from the unloaded dimension (step 2). Free sag indicates the distance your rear suspension should sag from the weight of the sprung portion of your CRF. With the spring pre-load set to obtain the proper race sag, the rear suspension should sag: 0.39 to 0.98 in (10 to 25 mm) If the rear of your CRF sags more than 0.98 in (25 mm) from its own weight, the spring is too stiff for your weight. It is not compressed enough, even though you have the proper race sag adjustment. As a result, the rear suspension will not extend as far as it should. Spring Rates If you are lighter or heavier than the average rider and cannot set the proper ride height without altering the correct spring pre-load, consider an aftermarket shock absorber spring. A spring that is too soft for your weight forces you to add excessive spring pre-load to get the right race sag and, as a result, the rear end of the motorcycle is raised. This can cause the rear wheel to unload too much in the air and top out as travel rebounds. The rear end may top out from light braking, or kick sideways over lips and square-edged terrain. It may even top-out when you dismount your CRF.
Suspension Adjustments for Track Conditions Adjustments for Competition111 Soft Surface On soft ground, sand, and especially mud, consider increasing compression damping front and rear. Sand often requires a bit more rebound damping to minimize rear end kick. Although sand bumps are usually larger, there’s more distance between them, giving the shock more time to recover. You may want a little bit stiffer front suspension for sand tracks to help keep the front end up and improve straight-line stability. In a muddy event, stiffer aftermarket springs front and rear may help, especially if you are heavier than the average rider. Your CRF may be undersprung because of the added weight of the clinging mud. This additional weight may compress the suspension too much and affect traction. Hard Surface For a fast, hard track with no large jumps, you can probably run the same spring as normal, but run softer damping both ways-compression and rebound. If you run softer rebound damping, the wheel will follow the rough ground and small bumps much better, and you will hook up better. With a lot of rebound damping, the wheel returns very slowly and doesn’t contact the ground quickly enough after each bump. The result is a loss of traction and slower lap times.
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines 112Adjustments for Competition Follow the procedures described below to accurately adjust your CRF, using the methods described on pages 94 - 108. Remember to make all adjustments in one-click increments. Test ride after each adjustment. Front Suspension Adjustment Adjustments for Type of Track Adjustments for Too Soft/Stiff Damping Hard-surfaced track Sand track Mud track Begin with the standard setting. If the suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust according to the chart below. Adjust to a stiffer position. Example:– Turn the compression damping adjuster to a stiffer position. – Install the optional stiff spring. (Adjust compression damping to a softer position and rebound damping to a harder position at this time.) Adjust to a stiffer position because mud build-up increases your CRF’s weight. Example:– Turn the compression damping adjuster to a stiffer setting. – Install the optional stiff spring. Soft suspension Symptom Initial travel too soft: •Steering is too quick. •Front end darts while cornering or riding in a straight line. Middle travel too soft: •Front end dives when cornering. Final travel too soft: •Bottoms on landings. •Bottoms on large bumps, especially downhill bumps. Entire travel too soft: •Front end shakes. •Fork bottoms over any type of terrain. Action – Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. – Test stiffer rebound damping in one-click increments. If suspension isn’t stiff in initial travel: – Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. If initial travel becomes stiff because of the above adjustment: – Reduce the rebound damping in one-click increments. – Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. If that doesn’t solve the problem, install the optional stiff spring. If initial and middle travel aren’t stiff: – Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. If initial and middle travel are stiff: – Install the optional stiff spring. If initial travel is stiff after installing the optional stiff spring: – Test soft compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. If initial travel is still soft after installing the optional stiff spring: – Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. If final travel is still soft after installing the optional stiff spring: – Increase the fork oil level in increments of 0.2 oz (5 cc). – Install the optional stiff spring. – Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. – Increase rebound damping in one-click increments.
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines Adjustments for Competition113 Stiff suspension Symptom Initial travel too stiff: • Stiff on small bumps while riding at full throttle in a straight line.•Stiff on small cornering bumps. •Front end wanders while riding at full throttle in a straight line. Middle travel too stiff: •Stiff on bumps when cornering. •Front end wanders when cornering. •Stiff suspension on bumps, especially downhill bumps. •While braking, front end dives during initial travel, then feels stiff. Final travel too stiff: •Doesn’t bottom on landings, but feels stiff. •Stiff on large bumps, especially downhill bumps. •Stiff on large bumps when cornering. Entire travel too stiff: •Stiff suspension on any type of terrain. Action – Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. – Reduce the rebound damping adjustments in one-click increments. – Check for dirt in the dust seals. Check the fork oil for any contamination. If the front end dives while cornering, reduce the rebound damping in one click increments. If that doesn’t solve the problem, install the optional stiff spring. If the stiff spring makes the suspension too stiff over the full range of travel: test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments until the desire compression damping for initial travel is obtained. If initial travel isn’t stiff: – Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. (This should produce smooth fork action from initial to middle travel.) If initial and middle travel is stiff: – Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. – Reduce the rebound damping in one-click increments. If initial and middle travel aren’t stiff: – Test stiffer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. (This should produce smooth fork action from initial to middle travel.) If final travel is still stiff after the above adjustment, or If initial and middle travel becomes stiff: – Install the optional stiff spring. – Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. If the entire travel feels stiff after the above adjustment: – Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments until the desired initial travel compression damping is obtained. – Lower the oil level by 0.2 oz (5 cc). – Test softer compression damping adjustments in one-click increments. – Reduce the rebound damping in one-click increments. – Lower the oil level by 0.2 oz (5 cc).
Suspension Adjustment Guidelines 114Adjustments for Competition Rear Suspension Adjustment Adjustments for Type of Track Symptoms and Adjustment •Always begin with the standard settings. •Turn the low speed compression and rebound adjusters in one-click increments, and the high speed compression adjuster in 1/6 turn increments at a time. Adjusting two or more clicks or turns at a time may cause you to pass over the best adjustment. Test ride after each adjustment. •If, after setting, the suspension feels unusual, find the corresponding symptom in the table and test stiffer or softer compression and/or rebound damping adjustments until the correct settings are obtained as described. Hard-surfaced track Sand track Mud track Begin with the standard settings. If the suspension is too stiff/soft, adjust according to the chart below. Lower the rear end (to improve front wheel stability) by increasing Race Sag (reduce spring preload). Example:– Turn the compression damping adjuster and, especially, rebound damping adjuster to a stiffer setting. – Increase standard Race Sag (+0.2 to 0.4 in/5 to 10 mm). Adjust to a stiffer position because mud build-up increases your CRF’s weight. Example:– Adjust the compression and rebound damping adjusters to stiffer settings. – Install the optional stiff spring. – Reduce standard Race Sag (–0.2 to 0.4 in/5 to 10 mm). Stiff suspension Soft suspension Suspension bottoms Symptom Suspension feels stiff on small bumps Suspension feels stiff on large bumps Entire travel too stiff Entire travel too soft Rear end sways Suspension bottoms at landing after jumping Suspension bottoms after landing Suspension bottoms after end of continuous bumps Action 1. Test softer low speed compression adjustment. 2. If it still feels stiff, further test softer low and high speed compression adjustments simultaneously. 1. Test softer high speed compression adjustment. 2. If it still feels stiff, further test softer low and high speed compression adjustments simultaneously. 1. Test softer high and low speed compression adjustments and rebound adjustment simultaneously. 2. If it still feels stiff, replace the spring with a softer spring (optional) and begin with the standard settings to softer settings. 1. Test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments simultaneously. 2. If it still feels soft, replace the spring with a harder spring (optional) and begin with the standard settings to stiffer setting. 1. Test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments and rebound adjustment to stiffer settings simultaneously. 1. Test stiffer high speed compression adjustment. 2. If it still bottoms, test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments, and replace the spring with a harder spring (optional) if necessary. 1. Test stiffer low speed compression adjustment. 2. If it still bottoms, test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments, and replace the spring with a harder spring (optional) if necessary. 1. Test softer rebound dumping adjustment. 2. If it still bottoms, test stiffer high and low speed compression adjustments and softer rebound damping adjustment, and replace the spring with a harder spring (optional) if necessary.
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips Adjustments for Competition115 The carburetor on your CRF should perform suitably with the standard recommended settings under average load, climatic, and barometric conditions. However, to fine tune the engine’s power output, the carburetor may require adjustments for specific competition needs. Optional main jets and slow jets are available for your CRF. See your Honda dealer. Any engine or airbox modifications or the use of an aftermarket exhaust system may require jetting changes. Carburetor Components Cold Start Circuit A very rich mixture must be delivered to the cylinder when cold engine is being started. When the choke knob (1) is pulled out, fuel is metered by the starter jet (2) and is mixed with air from the air passage (3) (located above the throttle valve (4)) to provide a rich mixture for starting. The mixture discharges through the orifice (5) into the cylinder. (1) choke knob (4) throttle valve (2) starter jet (5) orifice (3) air passage Hot Start Circuit A lean mixture must be delivered to the cylinder when a hot engine is being started. When the hot start lever is pulled back, the hot start valve (1) opens, allowing air to be supplied to the main bore (2) through the hot start air passage (3). This extra air enters the air-fuel mixture from the slow circuit resulting in a lean condition. (1) hot start valve (2) main bore (3) hot start air passage 3 (1) (5) (2) (4) (3) (2) (1) (3) (cont’d)
Carburetor Adjustments & Tuning Tips 116Adjustments for Competition Accelerator Pump Circuit The accelerator pump circuit operates when the throttle is opened. As the throttle valve (1) opens, the pump rod (2) depress the diaphragm (3). At this time, the inlet check valve (4) is shut resulting in a sharp increase in pressure in the pump chamber (5). The outlet check valve (6) then opens, supplying fuel to the main bore via the accelerator nozzle (7). (1) throttle valve (5) pump chamber (2) pump rod (6) outlet check valve (3) diaphragm (7) accelerator nozzle (4) inlet check valve Slow Circuit Fuel is metered by the slow jet (1) and mixed with air from the air passage (2). The mixture enters the venturi through the bypass (3) and pilot outlet (4) that has been metered by the pilot screw (5). (1) slow jet (4) pilot outlet (2) air passage (5) pilot screw (3) bypass Main Circuit Fuel is metered by the main jet (1), jet needle (2) and needle jet (3). It is then mixed with air coming from the air jet (4) and enters the venturi past the needle jet. Baf fle Plate The baffle plate (5) prevents foaming of fuel or abnormal fuel level around the main jet. Float Bowl The float (6) and float valve (7) operate to maintain a constant level of fuel in the float bowl. (1) main jet (5) baffle plate (2) jet needle (6) float (3) needle jet (7) float valve (4) air jet (3) 2 (1) (7) (6)(2) (5) (4) (3) (2) (1)(5) (4) (6) (4) (2) (7) (5) (1) (3)