Ryobi Bt31001 Manual
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Page 31 OPERATION TO MAKE NON-THROUGH CUTS Non-through cuts can be made with the grain (ripping) or across the grain (crosscut). The use of a non-through cut is essential to cutting grooves, rabbets, and dadoes. This is the only type cut that is made without the blade guard installed. Make sure the blade guard assembly is reinstalled upon completion of this type of cut. Read the appropriate section which describes the type of cut in addition to this section on non-through or dado cuts. For example, if your non-through cut is a straight cross cut, read and understand the section on straight cross cuts before proceeding. WARNING: Unplug the saw to avoid possible injury. Remove the screw holding the throat plate in place. Remove the throat plate. Raise the saw blade. Put the saw in angle mode by pushing the bevel locking lever to the right. Turn the blade adjusting handle until the blade indicator shows a 30° angle. Push the bevel locking lever securely to the left to lock the angle. With the box end of the small hex wrench, loosen the two hex nuts at the base of the riving knife. Do not remove hex nuts. Remove the riving knife/guard assembly. Retighten the two hex nuts on the base. Insert the throat plate. Lower the blade and insert the throat plate, then securely tighten the throat plate screw. Bring the blade back to 90°. Raise the blade to the correct height by turning the blade adjusting handle counterclockwise. Feed the workpiece into the blade. WARNING: Carefully check all setups and rotate the blade one full revolution to assure proper clearance before connecting saw to power source. Always use push blocks, push sticks, and featherboards when making non-through cuts to avoid the risk of serious injury. See Figure 42. WARNING: Never feed wood with your hands when making any non- through cut such as rabbets or dadoes. WARNING: When making a non-through cut, the cutter is covered by the workpiece during most of the cut. Be alert to the exposed cutter at the start and finish of every cut to avoid the risk of serious personal injury. When the cut is made, turn the saw off ( ). Wait for the blade to come to a complete stop before removing the workpiece. Lower the blade. Unplug your saw. Remove the screw holding the throat plate in place. Remove the throat plate. Raise the saw blade. Push the bevel locking lever to the right. Rotate the blade adjusting handle until the bevel indicator shows a 30° angle. Push the bevel locking lever securely to the left while holding the blade adjusting handle to lock the angle. Reinstall the blade guard assembly. Retighten the nuts at the base of the riving knife. Check riving knife alignment to the blade and adjust shims if necessary. See page 25. Move the bevel locking lever to the right and rotate the blade back to 90°. Push the lever to the left to lock the angle. Lower the blade, insert the throat plate, then securely tighten the throat plate screw. PUSH BLOCK Fig. 42 “C” CLAMPFEATHERBOARD PUSH STICK BEVEL LOCKING LEVER
Page 32 OPERATION TO MAKE DADO CUTS A dado is a non-through cut and typically refers to a channel cut, both with the grain and across the grain. (The Ryobi part number for the 6 in. dado set is 4650306.) „Unplug your saw. WARNING: Unplug the saw to avoid possible injury. „Remove the blade guard assembly. See page 25. „Retighten the two hex nuts on base assembly. „Remove the blade. „Remove the appropriate spacers on the blade arbor to get the correct width for the dado blade. „Reinstall the inner blade washer. „Mount the dado blade, using the instructions with the dado set. „Reinstall the outer blade washer and arbor nut. „Make sure the arbor nut is fully engaged and the arbor extends at least one full thread past a securely tightened arbor nut.„When mounting dado blades, make sure both the inner blade washer and outer blade washer are used. „Replace the throat plate with optional Dado Throat Plate (4070331). When ordering parts, always give the model number. Call 1-800-525-2579 for assistance. WARNING: Always put all spacers in proper location when changing back to saw blade. Failure to do so may result in possible injury and damage to the tool. WARNING: Always use push blocks, push sticks, or featherboards when making dado cuts to avoid the risk of serious injury. WARNING: All blades must be rated for at least 5,500 RPM to prevent possible injury or damage to the tool.
Page 33 GENERAL MAINTENANCE WARNING: Always begin by disconnecting the power supply. Periodically check all clamps, nuts, bolts, screws, and belts for tightness and condition. Make sure the throat plate is in good condition and in position. Check the blade guard assembly. MAINTENANCE To maintain the table surfaces, fence, and rails, periodically apply paste wax to them and buff to provide smooth functioning. To prevent work from slipping during cutting operation, DO NOT wax the working face of the miter fence. Protect the blade by cleaning out sawdust from underneath the table and in the blade teeth. Use a resin solvent on the blade teeth. Clean plastic parts only with a soft damp cloth. DO NOT use any aerosol or petroleum solvents. LUBRICATION This saw has been lubricated at the factory prior to shipment. Following extended use, you should inspect and lubricate the following areas to assure smooth operation. LOCKER BRACKET ASSEMBLY See Figure 43. Add dry lube between both bevel gears, the backup washers and the locker bracket. Add dry lube between threaded hole in motor casting and threaded elevating shaft. Recommended Lubricants: Dry Silicone or Teflon Lubricant TILT / ELEVATING MECHANISM See Figure 44. Add dry lube between the handle shaft and the bore of the clamping bolt. Add dry lube between the face of the clamping bolt and the face of the handle shaft. Add dry lube on the inner surfaces of the bevel locking lever which contacts the cam.Fig. 43 BLADE ADJUSTING HANDLE HANDLE SHAFT CLAMPING BOLT CAM SURFACE CAM BEVEL LOCKING LEVER Fig. 44 SPRING BACKUP WASHERLOCKER BRACKET BEVEL GEAR THREADED HOLEELEVATING SHAFT
Page 34 BLADE SCREWS RIP FENCE LOCKING HANDLE WARNING: Before performing any adjustment, make sure the tool is unplugged from the power supply and the switch is in the off ( ) position. Failure to head this warning could result in serious personal injury. TO SET BLADE AT 0° OR 45° See Figure 45. The angle settings of your saw have been set at the factory and, unless damaged in shipping, should not require setting during assembly. After extensive use, it may need to be checked. Push the bevel locking lever to the right. Turn the blade adjusting handle to angle the blade. Use a combination square to check squareness between the blade and saw table. If the blade is not perfectly vertical (0°), loosen the lock nut on the 0° stop bolt inside the cabinet, position the blade, adjust the stop bolt, then retighten lock nut. See Figure 45, insert. If the bevel indicator is not at zero, adjust it with the two screws above the slot, beside the blade adjusting handle. Turn the blade adjusting handle until the bottom of the blade has moved completely to the left side of the slot. Lock the angle by pushing the bevel locking lever to the left. If the blade is not an exact 45°, loosen the lock nut on the 45° stop bolt inside the cabinet, position the blade, adjust the stop bolt, then retighten lock nut. See Figure 45, insert. Make a test cut. TO CHECK THE ALIGNMENT OF THE RIP FENCE TO THE BLADE See Figure 46. WARNING: Before performing any adjustment, make sure the tool is unplugged from the power supply and the switch is in the off ( ) position. Failure to head this warning could result in serious personal injury. Raise the locking handle to permit the rip fence to be moved. Place a framing square beside the blade and move the rip fence up to the square. Take the dimension on the rip scale. Move the fence back and turn the framing square 180° to check the other side. If the two dimensions are not the same, loosen the two screws on the fence and align it. Retighten the two screws. BEVEL LOCKING LEVER 0° BOLT Fig. 46 BLADE ADJUSTING HANDLEBEVEL INDICATOR 45° BOLT MAINTENANCE 45° STOP BOLT LOCKLOCK NUT0° STOP BOLTSCREWS Fig. 45 CLAMP SCREW RIP FENCE
Page 35 Fig. 47 BLADE ADJUSTING HANDLE SOCKET HEAD SCREW Make two or three test cuts on scrap wood. If the cuts are not true, repeat the process. WARNING: Before plugging the saw back in to make test cuts, make sure the switch is in the off ( ) position and the blade guard is in place. Failure to do so may result in serious injury. TO ADJUST THE BEVEL LOCKING LEVER See Figure 47. The bevel locking lever may work loose and require adjust- ing. To adjust it, use the following steps. Push the lever full left to the locked position. Remove the screw on the blade adjusting handle. You will need a 3/16 in. hex key for this procedure. Remove the blade adjusting handle and cam. Pull out the cam. Remove the set screw on the bevel locking lever. Remove the bevel locking lever from hex nut. Relocate bevel locking lever on the hex nut. Replace set screw and tighten securely. Replace the cam so that the lobe is against the tab as shown in Figure 47. Make sure the cam is seated in the lever. Reassemble the handle to the shaft and cam. Check whether the lever is now in the desired position. Tighten screw securely. TO ALIGN THE MITER LOCKING CLAMPS See Figure 48. WARNING: Before performing any adjustment, make sure the tool is unplugged from the power supply and the switch is in the off ( ) position. Failure to head this warning could result in serious personal injury. The miter locking clamps are preset at the factory but may require adjusting after extended use or if damage occurs in shipping. Adjust them with the following steps: Loosen the set screw behind each locking clamp. Loosen the screw on top of each locking clamp. Lift the locking clamp to the Up position. Push the clamp forward tight against the front rail to bring the clamp into alignment. When the clamps are correctly positioned, retighten the screws and the set screws. Push both front and rear miter locking clamps down to secure the sliding miter table. SCREW FRONT RAIL MITER LOCKING CLAMP Fig. 48 SET SCREW SET SCREW TABHEX NUT CAM BEVEL LOCKING LEVER LOBE SPRING MAINTENANCE
Page 36 TO ADJUST THE FRONT AND REAR RAIL CLAMPS See Figure 49. The rail clamps are located below the rails and ensure tight attachment of the rail. Following extended use, the rail holder nut inside the rails may need adjusting. Remove the miter table and accessory table. Remove the front and rear rails by loosening the rail clamps and sliding the rails off. Rotate each rail clamp to the left until it hits or comes in contact with the bottom of the saw table. Tighten rail holder nut until it is snug. Loosen rail holder nut one-fourth (1/4) turn. Replace the rails and check the rail clamps. TO ADJUST THE ACCESSORY TABLE See Figure 50. After extended use, the accessory table may work loose causing the accessory table to be loose on the rails. Follow the steps below, when adjustments are required: Remove the hex nut on the lever using a 3/8 in. nut driver. Remove the backup plate and spring plate. Rotate the spring plate 180° and reinstall on the handle shaft. Reassemble all parts and tighten hex nut securely. Note: The spring plate offers two ends for use before requiring replacement. TO ADJUST THE SLIDING MITER TABLE ASSEMBLY The sliding miter table assembly has been preset at the factory to be parallel to the blade. However, misalignment during shipping or requirements for very precise and accurate cuts may require realignment. The square relationship between the blade and the miter fence as it travels the entire distance from the front to the rear of the miter table base during a cut is very important for making precise and accurate cuts. To avoid unnecessary setups and adjustments, we suggest that you check these setups carefully with a framing square and make practice cuts in scrap wood before making finish cuts in good workpieces. Note: Follow the general rule of measuring twice and cutting once. Do not loosen any screws for the following adjustments until you have made checks and are sure adjustments are needed. Once screws have been loosened, these settings must be reset. Two basic checks should be made to determine if adjustments are necessary: The miter base must be parallel to the blade as the table slides from the front to the rear of the miter table assembly. WASHER RAIL CLAMP RAIL HOLDER NUT HEX MOUNTING BOLT Fig. 49 RETAINING RING ACCESSORY TABLE CAP SCREW LEVER BACKUP PLATE HANDLE SHAFT Fig. 50 HEX NUT SPRING PLATE WASHER The miter fence must be square to the blade when set at exactly zero (0°) on the miter table scale. This is necessary in order to be able to use the scale on the miter table. The miter table has adjustment screws for squaring miter fence to blade and maintaining 0° scale settings when miter base adjustments are required. Note: These checks and adjustments are being explained in step by step procedures, however, you should be aware that they depend upon each other. MAINTENANCE
Page 37 CHECKING SLIDING MITER TABLE ASSEMBLY To Check Miter Base Parallelism: WARNING: Begin by unplugging your saw. Failure to unplug saw could result in accidental starting causing possible serious injury. Set saw up as if you were preparing to make a cut. Tighten rail clamps, miter locking clamps, adjusting clamp, etc. Slide miter table (A) to the front of miter base (B) as far as it will go. Place a reference mark (C) near the end of the miter table as shown in figure 51. Note: Front of miter base is on infeed side of saw. Place a reference mark on one of the blade teeth (D) and rotate the blade (E) so that the reference mark on the blade is at the front of the throat plate (F). Place a framing square (G) against the blade and align with reference mark on miter table. Measure the distance between the blade and the edge of miter table. Note: Place framing square between carbide teeth and measure from blade. This step will insure framing square is square against blade from the front to back of blade. Remove framing square and slide miter table to the rear of miter base as far as it will go. See Figure 52. Rotate the blade so the reference mark on the blade is at the rear of the throat plate. Measuring from the same mark on the blade at the rear will eliminate the effect of blade wobble. Place framing square against the blade and align with the same reference mark on the miter table. Measure the distance between the blade and the edge of the miter table at the rear. Compare whether the front and rear measurements are the same. If they are the same, proceed with checking the miter fence alignment. If not, this indicates the miter base needs aligning. Miter base must then be adjusted before checking miter fence alignment. See TO ADJUST THE MITER BASE section that follows. E F A B D G C DFig. 51 Fig. 52 E FDG C A B MAINTENANCE
Page 38 L To Check Miter Fence Alignment See Figure 53. The miter fence must be perpendicular to the blade when set at zero degrees. WARNING: Begin by unplugging your saw. Failure to unplug saw could result in accidental starting causing possible serious injury. Set the miter fence (H) at 0° as shown in figure 53. Miter indicator (I) should be set precisely on 0° and secured in place with adjusting clamp (J). Note: The quick-stop is not necessary for this checking procedure. However, you may want to check and adjust it to 0° at this time. See Quick-Stop section that follows. Place a framing square (G) firmly against the miter fence (H) with the other side against the blade (E). Check whether the miter fence and blade are square with each other. With the framing square against the miter fence there should be no gap from the front to the rear of the blade. If a gap exists, the miter fence may be out of square. Rotate the blade and recheck. If there is a consistent gap between the front and rear of the blade, the miter table needs aligning. Follow the adjustment procedures that follow. MAKING ADJUSTMENTS TO SLIDING MITER TABLE ASSEMBLY To Adjust the Miter Base See Figure 54. REMEMBER: Check all settings before loosening screws for the following procedures. Once screws have been loosened, these settings must be reset. Eight screws are visible on the miter base (B). Four screws (K) are on the holder plates and secure these plates to the rails. It is not necessary to loosen or adjust these screws for this adjustment procedure. Another pair of screws (L) is in the base, at the rear. Loosen these two screws (L) and the rear miter locking clamps (M). The last pair of screws is located on the infeed side of the base. Loosen the left screw (N) only. The right screw (O) will be used as a pivot point. Note: The front two miter locking clamps (P) and rail clamps should remain locked. Follow the steps in TO CHECK MITER BASE PARALLELISM, adjust the miter base so that it is parallel to the blade. Retighten the left front screw (N). Clamp the rear miter locking clamps (M). Retighten the two rear screws (L). H I J G E Fig. 53 Fig. 54 M R P K MM B N O K MAINTENANCE
Page 39 WARNING: Begin by unplugging your saw. Failure to unplug saw could result in accidental starting causing possible serious injury. TO ADJUST THE MITER FENCE Set the miter fence (H) at 0° as shown in figure 53. Miter indicator (I) should be set precisely on 0° and secured in place with adjusting clamp (J). There are four slides located under the sliding miter table. These slides let the miter table move on the base. Three slides are mounted on eccentric screws that can be adjusted by loosening the hex nuts on top of the miter table. See Figure 55. Loosen the rear hex nuts (Q) on top of sliding miter table for this adjustment procedure. Note: The front screws (R) are only needed to remove excessive play in the slides due to wear from extended use. They are not needed for this procedure. The right front hex nut is a non-eccentric pivot and should never be loosened. Adjust the right rear eccentric screw from the lower side of the miter table so that maximum play exists between the slide and miter base. Push left rear of miter table snugly against miter base as shown by the arrow (S) in figure 56 and secure. Place a framing square firmly against the miter fence, with the other side against the blade. Adjust left rear screw from underneath miter table until miter fence and blade are square with each other. Tighten hex nut securely. Adjust right rear screw from underneath miter table to remove excessive play. Tighten hex nut securely. Recheck your setups carefully. Also make sure all screws, hex nuts, etc. have been tightened securely. If sliding miter table assembly is still not square with the blade, repeat the above procedures as needed. Make sure that slides remain square to miter base edge to prevent “cocking” which will result in excessive play in miter table. TO ADJUST QUICK-STOP The quick-stop is preset at the factory to stop the miter fence at exactly 0°. However, when sliding miter table adjustments are made, these adjustments may cause the quick stop to need adjusting. Check quick-stop with miter scale set at 0°. If adjustments are needed, proceed with the following steps: Loosen the eccentric screw holding the quick-stop. Place the quick-stop against the miter fence with miter scale set at 0°. See Figure 57. Adjust eccentric screw until it holds quick-stop securely against miter fence. Retighten hex nut, securing eccentric screw and quick- stop. Check your work. If the quick-stop is not at 0°, repeat above steps. Fig. 55SLIDELIP OF BASE HEX NUT ECCENTRIC SCREW Fig. 56 Q R S MITER FENCE ADJUSTING CLAMP MITER INDICATOR ZERO DEGREES MITER FENCEMITER TABLE H QUICK STOP AND ECCENTRIC SCREW Fig. 57 MAINTENANCE
Page 40 PROBLEM CAUSE SOLUTION TROUBLE SHOOTING Excess vibration. Blade is out of balance. Replace blade. Blade is damaged. Replace blade. Saw is not mounted securely. Tighten all hardware. Work surface is uneven. Reposition on flat surface. Adjust legs of table saw stand. Blade is warped Check Saw Blade Installation on page 20. Replace blade if neces- sary. Rip fence does not move smoothly. Rip fence not mounted correctly. Remount the rip fence. Rails are dirty or sticky. Clean and wax rails. Clamp screw is out of adjustment.Adjust clamp screw counterclockwise. See page 34. Rip fence does not lock at rear. Clamp screw is out of adjustment. Adjust clamp screw clockwise. See page 34. Cutting binds or burns work. Blade is dull. Replace or sharpen blade Blade is heeling. Align miter base. Work is fed too fast. Slow the feed rate. Rip fence is misaligned. Align the rip fence. Riving knife is misaligned. Adjust the riving knife with shims provided. Wood is warped. Replace the wood. Always cut with convex side to table surface. Wood edges away from rip fence Rip fence is misaligned. Check and adjust the rip fence. when ripping. Blade not properly sharpened or set. Sharpen or set blade. Sliding miter table assembly does Miter base or slides improperly See page 36 for Adjustments to not move smoothly. adjusted. Sliding Miter Table Assembly .