Kenmore Economizer 6 Manual

							


prescribed  temperature-pressure  relief  valve  installed  in  the 
designated  opening  in  the  water  heater  in  place  of  the  factory 
furnished valve.
For safe operation of the water heater, the relief valve must not 
be removed from its designated opening nor plugged.
The temperature-pressure relief valve must be installed directly 
into the fitting of the water heater designed for the relief valve.  
Position  the  valve  downward  and  provide  tubing  so  that  any 
discharge will exit only within 6 inches (153 mm) above, or at any 
distance below the structural floor. Be certain that no contact is 
made with any live electrical part. The discharge opening must 
not  be  blocked  or  reduced  in  size  under  any  circumstances. 
Excessive  length,  over  30  feet  (9.14  m),  or  use  of  more  than 
four  elbows  can  cause  restriction  and  reduce  the  discharge 
capacity of the valve.
No  valve  or  other  obstruction  is  to  be  placed  between  the 
relief  valve  and  the  tank.  Do  not  connect  tubing  directly  to 
discharge drain unless a 6 inch air gap is provided. To prevent 
bodily  injury,  hazard  to  life,  or  property  damage,  the  relief 
valve must be allowed to discharge water in quantities should 
circumstances demand. If the discharge pipe is not connected 
to a drain or other suitable means, the water flow may cause 
property damage.
The Discharge Pipe:
• Shall  not  be  smaller  in  size  than  the  outlet  pipe  size  of  the 
valve, or have any reducing couplings or other restrictions.
•  Shall not be plugged or blocked.
•  Shall be of material listed for hot water distribution.
•  Shall be installed so as to allow complete drainage of both the 
temperature-pressure relief valve, and the discharge pipe.
•  Shall terminate at an adequate drain.
•  Shall not have any shut-off valve between the relief valve and 
tank nor in the discharge pipe.
The  temperature-pressure  relief  valve  must  be  manually 
operated  at  least  once  a  year.    Caution  should  be  taken  to 
ensure that (1) no one is in front of or around the outlet of the 
temperature-pressure relief valve discharge line, and (2) the 
water manually discharged will not cause any bodily injury or 
property damage because the water may be extremely hot.
If  after  manually  operating  the  valve,  it  fails  to  completely 
reset  and  continues  to  release  water,  immediately  close 
the  cold  water  inlet  to  the  water  heater,  follow  the  draining 
instructions,  and  replace  the  temperature-pressure  relief 
valve with a new one.
FIGURE 10.
Filling the Water Heater
Never use this water heater unless it is completely full of water. 
To  prevent  damage  to  the  tank  and  heating  element,  the  tank 
must  be  filled  with  water.  Water  must  flow  from  the  hot  water 
faucet before turning “ON” power.
To fill the water heater with water:
•   Close the water heater drain valve by turning the handle to 
the right (clockwise). The drain valve is located on the lower front of the water heater.
•    Open the cold water supply valve to the water heater.
        NOTE:  The  cold  water  supply  valve  must  be  left  open      when the water heater is in use.
•   To  insure  complete  filling  of  the  tank,  allow  air  to  exit  by 
opening the nearest hot water faucet. Allow water to run until a constant flow is obtained. This will let air out of the water heater and the piping.
•  Check all new water piping for leaks. Repair as needed. 
						

							
12

Wiring 
You must provide all wiring of the proper size outside of the water heater. You must obey local codes and electric company requirements when you install this wiring.
If you are not familiar with electric codes and practices, or if you have any doubt, even the slightest doubt, in your ability to connect the wiring to this water heater, obtain the service of a competent electrician. Contact your Sears salesperson to arrange for a professional electrician.
WIRING DIAGRAMS
 C-2 C-2 STANDARD WIRING FOR  STANDARD WIRING FOR
  SINGLE ELEMENT 240 VOLT  SINGLE ELEMENT 120 VOLT
FIGURE 11.
WATER HEATERS EQUIPPED FOR ONE VOLTAGE ONLY: 
This  water  heater  is  equipped  for  one  type  voltage  only. 
Check  the  rating  plate  near  the  bottom  access  panel  for 
the  correct  voltage.  DO  NOT  use  this  water  heater  with 
any  voltage  other  than  the  one  shown  on  the  model  rating 
plate. Failure to use the correct voltage can cause problems 
which can result in DEATH, SERIOUS  BODILY  INJURY , OR 
PROPERTY  DAMAGE
. If you have any questions or doubts 
consult your electric company.
If  wiring  from  your  fuse  box  or  circuit  breaker  box  was 
aluminum  for  your  old  water  heater,  replace  it  with  copper 
wire. If you wish to reuse the existing aluminum wire, have 
the  connection  at  the  water  heater  made  by  a  competent 
electrician.  Contact  your  Sears  salesperson  to  arrange  for 
a professional electrician.       1.
 Provide  a  way  to  easily  shut  off  the  electric  power  when 
working  on  the  water  heater.  This  could  be  with  a  circuit 
breaker  or  fuse  block  in  the  entrance  box  or  a  separate 
disconnect switch.
2.  Install and connect a circuit directly from the main fuse or 
circuit breaker box. This circuit must be the right size and 
have its own fuse or circuit breaker. Refer to the chart in 
the  “Product  Specifications”  section  for  the  correct  size 
wire and fuse or circuit breaker.
3.  If metal conduit is used for the grounding conductor:
A.  The  grounding  electrode  conductor  shall  be  of  copper,
 
aluminum, or copperclad aluminum. The material shall be 
of one continuous length without a splice or joint.
B.  R i g i d   m e t a l   c o n d u i t ,   i n t e r m e d i a t e   m e t a l   c o n d u i t ,   o r  
electrical  metallic  tubing  may  be  used  for  the  grounding  
means if conduit or tubing is terminated in fittings approved 
for grounding.
C.  Flexible  metal  conduit  or  flexible  metallic  tubing  shall  be 
permitted  for  grounding  if  all  the  following  conditions  are 
met:
•   The  length  in  any  ground  return  path  does  not  exceed  6 
feet.
•   The circuit conductors contained therein are protected by 
overcurrent devices rated at 20 amperes or less.
•   The conduit or tubing is terminated in fittings approved for 
grounding.
For complete grounding details and all allowable exceptions, 
refer  to  the  current  edition  of  the  NEC  -  National  Electrical 
Code NFPA 70.
4. A  standard  1/2”  conduit  opening  has  been  made  in  the 
water heater junction box for the conduit connection.
5.  Use wire nuts and connect the power supply wiring to the 
wires inside the water heater ’s junction box.
6.  The  water  heater  must  be  electrically  “grounded”  by  the 
installer. A green ground screw has been provided on the 
water  heater ’s  junction  box.  Connect  ground  wire  to  this 
location.
7.  R e p l a c e   t h e   w i r i n g   j u n c t i o n   c o v e r   u s i n g   t h e   s c r e w 
provided.
WIRING CONNECTIONS
FIGURE 12. 
						

							


TEMPERATURE SETTINGS  It is recommended that the dial be set lower whenever possible. 
 Temperature  Time to Produce 2nd & 3rd 
  Setting Degree Burns on Adult Skin 
 VERY HOT = approx.  160°F (71°C) About 1/2 second
  C = approx. 150°F (66°C)  About 1-1/2 seconds
  B = approx. 140°F (60°C)  Less than 5 seconds
  A = approx. 130°F (54°C)  About 30 seconds
  HOT = approx. 120°F (49°C)   More than 5 minutes
NOTE: Water temperature range of 120°—140°F (49°-60°C) 
recommended by most dishwasher manufacturers.
 
Thermostat Adjustment
(Refer to thermostat illustrations under “Thermostat” section)
The  thermostat  is  adjustable  if  a  different  water  temperature 
is  desired.  Read  all  warnings  in  the  “Temperature-Regulation” 
section before proceeding.
Temperature Regulation
HOTTER  WATER  CAN  SCALD:  Water  heaters  are  intended 
to  produce  hot  water.  Water  heated  to  a  temperature  which 
will satisfy clothes washing, dish washing, and other sanitizing 
needs can scald and permanently injure you upon contact. Some 
people  are  more  likely  to  be  permanently  injured  by  hot  water 
than  others.  These  include  the  elderly,  children,  the  infirm,  or 
physically/mentally  handicapped.  If  anyone  using  hot  water  in 
your home fits into one of these groups or if there is a local code 
or state law requiring a certain temperature water at the hot water 
tap, then you must take special precautions. In addition to using 
the  lowest  possible  temperature  setting  that  satisfies  your  hot 
water needs, some type of tempering device, such as a mixing 
valve, should be used at the hot water taps used by these people 
or at the water heater. Mixing valves are available at plumbing 
supply  or  hardware  stores.  Follow  manufacturers  instructions 
for installation of the valves, Before changing the factory setting 
of the thermostat, read the “Temperature Regulation” section in 
this manual.
Never  allow  small  children  to  use  a  hot  water  tap,  or  to  draw 
their own bath water. Never leave a child or handicapped person 
unattended in a bathtub or shower.
Thermostat
The  thermostat  of  this  water  heater  has  been  factory  set  at  a 
position  which  approximates  120°F  (49°C),  to  reduce  the  risk 
of scald injury.
The  thermostat  is  adjustable  if  a  different  water  temperature 
is  desired.  Read  all  warnings  in  this  manual  and  on  the  water 
heating before proceeding.
SERVICE AND ADjUSTMENT 
						

							


1. Turn  “OFF”  the  electric  power  to  the  water  heater  at  the 
junction box.
2.  Take off the access panel and remove the insulation cap with 
handle.
3.  The slotted adjustment (using a screwdriver) can be turned 
clockwise  (   )  to  increase  the  temperature  setting  or 
counter  clockwise  (   )  to  decrease  the  temperature 
setting.
4.  R e p l a c e   t h e   i n s u l a t i o n   c a p   w i t h   h a n d l e   a n d   a c c e s s 
panel.
5.  Turn “ON” the power supply.
Temperature-Pressure Relief 
Valve Operation
The temperature-pressure relief valve must be manually operated 
at least once a year.
The  temperature-pressure  relief  valve  must  be  manually 
operated  at  least  once  a  year.  Caution  should  be  taken  to 
ensure that (1) no one is in front of or around the outlet of the 
temperature-pressure relief valve discharge line, and (2) the 
water manually discharged will not cause any property damage 
or bodily injury. The water may be extremely hot.
FIGURE 14.
If after manually operating the valve, it fails to completely reset 
and continues to release water, immediately close the cold water 
inlet  to  the  water  heater,  follow  the  draining  instructions,  and 
replace the temperature-pressure relief valve with a new one.
Failure to install and maintain a new properly listed temperature-
pressure relief valve will release the manufacturer from any claim 
which might result from excessive temperature or pressure.
If the temperature-pressure relief valve on the appliance weeps 
or discharges periodically, this may be due to thermal expansion. 
Your water heater may have a check valve installed in the water 
line  or  a  water  meter  with  a  check  valve.  Consult  your  local 
Sears  Service  Center  for  further  information.  Do  not  plug  the 
temperature-pressure relief valve.
Draining
The  water  heater  should  be  drained  if  being  shut  down  during freezing  temperatures. Also,  periodic  draining  and  cleaning  of sediment from the tank may be necessary.
1.  Before beginning turn “OFF” the electric power supply to the water heater.
2.  CLOSE the cold water inlet valve to the water heater.
3.  OPEN a nearby hot water faucet and leave open to allow for 
draining.
4.   Connect  a  hose  to  the  drain  valve  and  terminate  to  an 
adequate drain or outdoors.
5.   OPEN  the  water  heater  drain  valve  to  allow  for  tank 
draining.
NOTE:  If  the  water  heater  is  going  to  be  shut  down  and  drained  for  an  extended  period,  the  drain  valve  should  be left open with hose connected allowing water to terminate to an adequate drain.
6.  Close the drain valve.
7.   Follow 
“Filling the Water Heater” instructions in the “Installation Instructions” section.
8.  Turn “ON” power to the water heater.
Never use this water heater unless it is completely full of water. 
To  prevent  damage  to  the  tank  and  heating  element,  the  tank 
must  be  filled  with  water.  Water  must  flow  from  the  hot  water 
faucet before turning “ON” power. 
						

							
5

Thermostat Removal/Replacement
1. Turn  “OFF”  the  electrical  power  to  the  water  heater  at  the 
junction box.
HAZARD  OF  ELECTRICAL  SHOCK!  Before  removing  any 
access  panels  or  servicing  the  water  heater,  make  sure  the 
electrical supply to the water heater is turned “OFF”. Failure to 
do this could result in DEATH, SERIOUS BODILY INJURY OR 
PROPERTY DAMAGE.
2. Remove  the  screw(s)  securing  the  access  panel  and 
remove panel and the insulation block.
3.  Lift out the tab as shown below to unclip the terminal cover 
from the thermostat. The terminal cover can now be removed 
from the thermostat.
FIGURE 15.
4.  Disconnect wires from thermostat.
5.   Remove the thermostat from behind the thermostat bracket.
6.  Place the new thermostat in the bracket making sure it fits 
firmly against the tank.
7.  Attach the wires to the new thermostat.
NOTE: Some of the terminals may require straight-in wiring 
through an eye-opening. If wires are now looped, recut and 
strip wire 3/8” to a straight length and insert.
8. Put plastic terminal cover back in place.
9.  Replace the insulation block to cover the thermostat.
10.  Replace access panel, then turn the electric power on.
Element Cleaning/Replacement
To remove the element from your tank in order to clean or replace it:
1. Before beginning turn “OFF” the electric power supply to the 
water heater.
FIGURE 16.
HAZARD  OF  ELECTRICAL  SHOCK!  Before  removing  any 
access  panels  or  servicing  the  water  heater,  make  sure  the 
electrical supply to the water heater is turned “OFF”. Failure to 
do this could result in DEATH, SERIOUS BODILY INJURY, OR 
PROPERTY DAMAGE.
2.  Turn  off  the  water  supply  to  the  water  heater  at  the  water 
Shut-off valve or water meter.
FIGURE 17.
3.  Attach a hose to the water heater drain valve and put the 
other  end  in  a  floor  drain  or  outdoors.  Open  the  water 
heater  drain  valve.  Open  a  nearby  hot  water  faucet 
which will relieve pressure in the water heater and speed 
draining.
FIGURE 18.
The water passing out of the drain valve may be extremely hot. 
To avoid being scalded, make sure all connections are tight and 
that the water flow is directed away from any person.
4.   Remove  the  screw(s)  securing  the  access  panel,  and 
remove panel. 
						

							
6

FIGURE 19.
5.  Remove insulation to expose the terminal cover.
FIGURE 20.
6.  Lift out the tab as shown to unclip the terminal cover from the 
thermostat.  The  terminal  cover  can  now  be  removed  from 
the thermostat.
FIGURE 21.
7. Disconnect the two wires on the element and unscrew the 
old element from the tank.
FIGURE 22.
8. Clean  the  area  around  the  element  opening.  Remove  any 
sediment  from  or  around  the  element  opening,  inside  the 
tank.
9.  If you are cleaning the element you have removed, do so by 
scraping or soaking in vinegar or a de-liming solution.
Replacement  elements  must  (1)  be  the  same  voltage  and  (2) 
no greater wattage than listed on the model rating plate affixed 
to the water heater.
10. A  new  gasket  should  be  used  in  all  cases  to  prevent  a 
possible water leak. (See Element Gasket in the “Parts Order 
List  ”  Chart).  Place  the  new  element  gasket  on  the  thread 
side  of  the  cleaned  or  new  element  and  screw  into  tank, 
securing tightly using an element wrench.
FIGURE 23.
11. Close the water heater drain valve by turning the handle to 
the right (clockwise).
12.  Open the cold water supply valve to the water heater.
NOTE: The cold water supply valve must be left open when 
the water heater is in use.
13. To  insure  complete  filling  of  the  tank,  allow  air  to  exit  by 
opening the nearest hot water faucet. Allow water to run until 
a constant flow is obtained. This will let air out of the water 
heater and the piping.
Never use this water heater unless it is completely full of water. 
To  prevent  damage  to  the  tank  and  heating  element,  the  tank 
must  be  filled  with  water.  Water  must  flow  from  the  hot  water 
faucet before turning “ON” power.
14. Check  element  for  water  leaks.  If  leakage  occurs,  tighten 
element  or  repeat  steps  2  and  3,  remove  element  and 
reposition gasket. Then repeat steps 10 through 14.
15.  Reconnect the two wires to the element and then check 
to  make  sure  the  thermostat  remains  firmly  against  the 
surface of the tank. 
						

							
7

FIGURE 24.
16. Replace terminal cover on thermostat making sure that the 
locking tabs on the terminal cover are in place.
FIGURE 25.
17. R e p l a c e   t h e   i n s u l a t i o n   t o   c o v e r   t h e   t h e r m o s t a t   a n d 
the element.
FIGURE 26.
18. Replace access panel.
19. Turn “ON” electric power to water heater.
FIGURE 27.
Drain Valve Washer Replacement.
NOTE:  For  replacement,  use  a  17/32”  x  13/64”  x  1/8”  thick 
w a s h e r   a v a i l a b l e   a t   y o u r   n e a r e s t   h a r d w a r e   s t o r e .   F o r 
ordering  a  replacement  washer,  refer  to  the  “Repair  Parts 
List” section.
•  Before beginning turn “OFF” the electrical power supply to the 
water heater.
•  Follow  “Draining”  instructions  in  the  “Service  and Adjustment” 
section.
•   Turning counter clockwise, remove the hex cap below the screw 
handle.
•   Remove the washer and put the new one in place.
•   Screw the handle and cap assembly back into the drain valve 
and retighten using a wrench. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
•   Follow “Filling the Water Heater” instructions in the “Installation 
Instructions” section.
•   Check for leaks.
•   Turn “ON” electric power to the water heater.
FIGURE 28.
Anode Rod Inspection
The anode rod is used to protect the tank from corrosion. Most 
hot water tanks are equipped with an anode rod. The submerged 
rod deteriorates to protect the tank. Instead of corroding the tank, 
water ions attack and eat away the anode rod. This does not effect 
the water’s taste or color. The rod must be maintained to keep the 
tank in operating condition.
Anode  deterioration  depends  on  water  conductivity,  not 
necessarily water condition. A corroded or pitted anode rod indicates 
high water conductivity and should be checked and/or replaced more 
often than an anode rod that appears to be intact. Replacement of 
the  depleted  anode  rod  can  extend  the  life  of  your  water  heater. 
Inspection should be conducted by calling the Sears Service Center 
for an authorized contractor. At a minimum, the anode(s) should 
be checked annually after the warranty period.
Service
Before calling for repair service, read the “Start Up Conditions” 
and  “Operational  Conditions”  found  in  the  Troubleshooting 
section of this manual.
If a condition persists or you are uncertain about the operation 
of the water heater, let a qualified person check it out. 
C o n t a c t   S e a r s   R e p a i r   S e r v i c e s   a t   1 - 8 0 0 - 4 - M Y- H O M E  
(1-800-469-4663). 
						

							
8

TROUBLESHOOTING
Start Up Conditions
THERMAL EXPANSION
Water supply systems may, because of such events as high line 
pressure, frequent cut-offs, the effects of water hammer among 
others, have installed devices such as pressure reducing valves, 
check valves, back flow preventers, etc...to control these types of 
problems. When these devices are not equipped with an internal 
by-pass, and no other measures are taken, the devices cause 
the  water  system  to  be  closed. As  water  is  heated,  it  expands 
(thermal  expansion)  and  closed  systems  do  not  allow  for  the 
expansion of heated water.
The water within the water heater tank expands as it is heated 
and increases the pressure of the water system. If the relieving 
point  of  the  water  heater’s  temperature-pressure  relief  valve 
is  reached,  the  valve  will  relieve  the  excess  pressure. The 
temperature-pressure  relief  valve  is  not  intended  for  the 
constant relief of thermal expansion. This is an unacceptable 
condition and must be corrected.
It is recommended that any devices installed which could create 
a  closed  system  have  a  by-pass  and/or  the  system  have  an 
expansion tank to relieve the pressure built by thermal expansion 
in the water system. Thermal expansion tanks are available from 
Sears stores and through the Sears Service Centers. Contact the 
local plumbing inspector, water supplier and/or the Sears Service 
Center for assistance in controlling these situations.
Thermal Expansion Tank Specifications
   Tank                   Dimensions    Pipe
  Model   Capacity 
                 in Inches     Fitting
  Number  In Gallons  Diameter  Length On Tank
  153.331020  2 8 (203 mm)  12-3/4 (323 mm)   3/4” Male
Expansion Tank Sizing Chart
 Expansion Inlet*       Water Heater Capacity (Gallons)
  Tank  Water
  Capacity  Pressure  6 10  20  30
 Needed 40-80 psi 2  2  2  2 
*Highest  recorded  inlet  water  pressure  in  a  24  hour  period  or regulated water pressure.
NOTE:  Expansion  tanks  are  pre-charged  with  a  40  psi  air charge. If the inlet water pressure is higher than 40 psi, the expansion  tank’s  air  pressure  must  be  adjusted  to  match that pressure, but must not be higher than 80 psi.
FIGURE 29.
STRANGE SOUNDS
Possible noises due to expansion and contraction of some metal parts during periods of heat-up and cool-down do not represent harmful or dangerous conditions.
Operational Conditions
SMELLY WATER
In  each  glass-lined  water  heater  there  is  installed  one  anode rod  (see  parts  section)  for  corrosion  protection  of  the  tank. Certain water conditions will cause a reaction between this rod and the water. The most common complaint associated with the anode  rod  is  one  of  a  “rotten  egg  smell”.  This  odor  is  derived from hydrogen sulfide gas dissolved in the water. The smell is the result of four factors which must all be present for the odor to develop:
A. A concentration of sulfate in the supply water.
B.  Little or no dissolved oxygen in the water.
C.  A  sulfate  reducing  bacteria  within  the  water  heater.  (This 
harmless bacteria is non-toxic to humans.)
D.  An excess of active hydrogen in the tank. This is caused by 
corrosion protective action of the anode. 
						

							
19

Smelly  water  may  be  eliminated  or  reduced  in  some  water 
heater  models  by  replacing  the  anode  rod(s)  with  one  of  less 
active material, and the chlorinating the water heater tank and 
all water lines. Contact the local Sears Service Center for further 
information  concerning  an  Anode  Replacement  Kit  #9001453 
and  this  Chlorination  Treatment. Anode  replacement  and 
chlorination of the tank are not covered by the water heater’s 
limited warranty.
If smelly water persists, after anode replacement and chlorination 
treatment,  you  should  consider  chlorinating  or  aerating  your 
water supply.
Do not remove the anode leaving the tank unprotected. By 
doing so, all warranty on the water heater tank is voided.
  
“AIR” IN HOT WATER FAUCETS
HYDROGEN  GAS:  Hydrogen  gas  can  be  produced  in  a  hot 
water system that has not been used for a long period of time 
(generally  two  weeks  or  more).  Hydrogen  gas  is  extremely 
flammable  and  explosive.  To  prevent  the  possibility  of  injury 
under  these  conditions,  we  recommend  the  hot  water  faucet 
be  opened  for  several  minutes  at  the  kitchen  sink  before  any 
electrical  appliances  which  are  connected  to  the  hot  water 
system are used (such as a dishwasher or washing machine). 
If  hydrogen  gas  is  present,  there  will  probably  be  an  unusual 
sound similar to air escaping through the pipe as the hot water 
faucet is opened. There must be no smoking or open flame near 
the faucet at the time it is open.
RUMBLING NOISE
In some water areas, scale or mineral deposits will build up on 
your heating elements. This buildup will cause a rumbling noise. 
Follow  “Element  Cleaning/Replacement”  instructions  to  clean 
and replace the elements.
HIGH TEMPERATURE SHUT OFF SYSTEM
The  water  heater  has  a  high  limit  shut  off  system  with  a  reset 
button located on the thermostat.
Follow  the  resetting  instructions  which  refer  to  the  high  limit 
behind the access panel.
1. Before  beginning,  turn  “OFF” electrical  power  supply  to  the 
water heater.
FIGURE 30.
2. Remove the screw(s) securing the access panel and remove 
panel.
3. Remove the insulation.
4.  Reset  the  high  limit  by  pushing  in  the  red  button  marked 
“RESET”.
                                 
                                         FIGURE 31.
5. Replace  the  insulation  so  that  it  completely  covers  the 
thermostat and element.
6.  Replace the access panel.
7.  Turn “ON” electric power to the water heater.
If the high limit must be reset again, call Sears Service Department 
to find out why high limit turned “OFF” the electric power. 
						

							
20

NOT ENOUGH OR NO HOT WATER
1.     In  a  new  installation,  the  water  heater  may  not  be  properly 
connected. Make sure the cold water supply valve is open. Review 
and check piping installation. Make sure that the cold water line is 
connected to the cold water inlet to the water heater and the hot 
water line to the hot water outlet on the water heater.
2.   Make sure the electrical supply to your water heater is “ON”.
3.    Check for loose or blown fuses in your water heater circuit.
  Circuit breakers weaken with age and may not handle their 
rated load and should be replaced.
4.    Make  certain  the  disconnect  switch,  if  used,  is  in  the  “ON” 
position.
5.   Check to see the electric service to your house has not been 
interrupted. If this is the case, contact the electric company.
6.    Is  the  thermostat  set  to  the  desired  temperature?  See 
“Temperature Regulation” section. 7. 
If you had experienced very hot water and now no hot water, 
the  problem  may  be  due  to  the  high  temperature  shut  off 
system.  See  “High  Temperature  Shut  Off  System”  in  the 
“Troubleshooting” section.
8.  During  very  cold  weather,  the  incoming  water  will  also  be 
colder and it will require a longer time to become heated.
9.   The hot water usage may exceed the capacity of the water 
heater. If so, wait for water heater to recover after abnormal 
demand. Also examine pipes and faucets for possible water 
leaks.
10.  If  you  can  not  determine  the  problem,  then  call  the  Sears 
Service Department.
WATER IS TOO HOT
Adjust the thermostat to a lower setting. See the “Temperature 
Regulation” section.