Husqvarna Z 254 Manual
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English Ð 21 SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS 2 The log is supported at one end. There is a high risk that it will split. A Start by cutting from below (about 1/3 of the way through). B Finish by cutting from above so that the two cuts meet. 3 The log is supported at both ends. There is a high risk that the chain will jam. A Start by cutting from above (about 1/3 of the way through). B Finish by cutting from below so that the two cuts meet. Limbing When limbing thick branches you should use the same approach as for cutting. Cut difficult branches piece by piece.12 3 ! 3 Tree felling technique It takes a lot of experience to fell a tree. Inexperienced users of chain saws should not fell trees. NEVER ATTEMPT A TASK YOU ARE UNSURE OF. A Safe distance The safe distance between a tree that is to be felled and anyone else working nearby is at least 21/2 tree lengths. Make sure that no-one else is in this Òrisk zoneÓ before or during felling. B Felling direction The aim is to fell the tree in the best possible position for subsequent limbing and cross-cutting. You want it to fall on ground where you can move about safely. The main point to avoid is letting the tree fall onto another tree. It can be both difficult and dangerous to remove a tree in such a position (see point 4 in this section). Once you have decided which way you want the tree to fall you must judge which way the tree would fall naturally. Several factors affect this: Lean of the tree Bend Wind direction Arrangement of branches Weight of snow You may find you are forced to let the tree fall in its natural direction because it is impossible or dangerous to try to make it fall in the direction you first intended. Another very important factor, which does not affect the felling direction but does affect your safety, is to make sure the tree has no damaged or dead branches that might break off and hit you during felling. ! During critical felling operations, hearing protectors should be lifted immediately when sawing is completed so that sounds and warning signals can be heard.
22 Ð English SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS C Clearing the trunk and preparing your retreat Remove any branches that are in the way. To do this it is best to work from the top down and keep the trunk between you and the chain saw. Never limb above shoulder height. Remove any undergrowth from the base of the tree and check the area for obstacles (stones, branches, holes, etc.) so that you have a clear path of retreat when the tree starts to fall. Your path of retreat should be roughly 135 degrees behind the intended felling direction. D Felling Felling is done using three cuts. First you make the DIRECTIONAL CUTS, which consist of the TOP CUT and the BOTTOM CUT; followed by the FELLING CUT. By placing these cuts correctly you can control the felling direction very accurately. DIRECTIONAL CUT To make the DIRECTIONAL CUT you begin with the TOP CUT. Stand to the right of the tree and cut downwards at an angle. Next make the BOTTOM CUT so that it finishes at the end of the TOP CUT. The directional cut should run 1/4 of the diameter through the trunk and the angle between the TOP CUT and BOTTOM CUT should be 45¡. The line where the two cuts meet is called the DIRECTIONAL CUT LINE. This line should be perfectly horizontal and at right angles (90¡) to the chosen felling direction. FELLING CUT The felling cut is made from the opposite side of the tree and it must be perfectly horizontal. Stand on the left side of the tree and cut with the bottom edge of the bar. Make the FELLING CUT about 3-5 cm (1.5-2 inches) above the flat section of the DIRECTIONAL CUT. Set the spike bumper in behind the breaking strip (if one is fitted).Use full throttle and bring the bar and chain slowly into the tree. Make sure the tree does not start to move in the opposite direction to your intended felling direction. Drive a WEDGE or BREAKING BAR into the cut as soon as it is deep enough. Finish the FELLING CUT parallel with the DIRECTIONAL CUT LINE so that the distance between them is at least at least 1/10 of the trunk diameter. The uncut section of the trunk is called the BREAKING STRIP. The BREAKING STRIP act as hinges that control the felling direction of the falling tree. All control over the felling direction is lost if the BREA- KING STRIP is too narrow or if the directional cut and felling cut are badly placed. When the felling cut and directional cut are complete the tree should start to fall under its own weight or with the aid of a FELLING WEDGE or BREAKING BAR.
English Ð 23 ! We recommend that you use a bar that is longer than the diameter of the tree, so that you can make the FELLING CUT and DIRECTIONAL CUT with single cutting stokes. (See ÓTechnical dataÓ to find out which lengths of bar are recommended for your saw). There are methods for felling trees with a diameter larger than the bar length. However these methods involve a much greater risk that the kickback zone of the bar will come into contact with the tree. UNLESS YOU HAVE SPECIAL TRAINING WE ADVISE YOU NOT TO FELL TREES WITH A DIAMETER LARGER THAN THE BAR LENGTH OF YOUR SAW! E Limbing MOST KICKBACK ACCIDENTS HAPPEN DURING LIMBING!PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE POSITION OF THE KICKBACK ZONE OF THE BAR WHEN YOU ARE LIMBING BRANCHES THAT ARE IN TENSION! Make sure there are no obstacles in your way. Work on the left side of the trunk. Work close to the saw for maximum control. If possible, let the weight of the saw rest on the trunk. Keep the tree between you and the saw as you move along the trunk. F Cutting the trunk into logs See chapter ÓGeneral working instructionsÓ point 2 ÓBasic cutting techniqueÓ . ! 4 Freeing a tree that has fallen badly = high accident risk A Freeing a ÒTrapped treeÓ The safest method is to use a winch. A Tractor-mounted B Portable B Cutting trees and branches that are in tension Preparations: a) Work out which way the tree or branch will move if released and where the natural ÒBREAKING POINTÓ is (i.e. the place it would break if it was bent even more). b) Decide which is the SAFEST way to release the tension and whether YOU are able to do it safely. In complicated situations the only safe method is to put aside your chain saw and use a winch. General advice: a) Position yourself so that you will be clear of the tree or branch when it springs free. b) Make one or more cuts at or near the BREAKING POINT. Make as many cuts of sufficient depth as necessary to reduce the tension and make the tree or branch break at the BREAKING POINT. Never cut straight through a tree or branch that is IS in tension! SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
24 Ð English WHAT IS WHAT? What is what? 1. Cylinder cover. 2. Front handle. 3. Front hand guard. 4. Starter cover. 5. Chain oil tank. 6. Starter handle. 7. Adjuster screw, carburettor. 8. Choke control/Start throttle lock. 9. Rear handle. 10. Stop switch. Ignition on/off switch. 11. Fuel tank. 12. Muffler. 13. Bar tip sprocket. 14. Saw chain.15. Saw bar. 16. Bumper. 17. Chain catcher. Catches chain if it jumps or breaks. 18. Clutch cover. 19. Right hand guard. Protects right hand if chain breaks or jumps. 20. Throttle control. 21. Throttle lock. Prevents accidental operation of throttle control. 22. Decompression valve. 23. Combination spanner. 24. Chain tensioning screw. 25. Operators manual. 26. Bar guard. 28. Switch for heated handles (XPG). 23 13 14 15 17 18 19 20 21221 16 25 23 26 24 57 9 10 11 46 8 12 28
English Ð 25 Mounting guide bar and chain Always wear gloves, when working with the chain, in order to protect your hands from injury. Check that the chain brake is in disengaged position by moving the front hand guard towards the front handle. Take off the bar nuts and remove the clutch cover. Take off the transportation ring (A). ASSEMBLY Hold up the tip of the bar and tighten the chain. The chain is correctly tensioned when there is no slack on the underside of the bar, but it can still be turned easily by hand. Hold up the bar tip and tighten the bar nuts with the combination wrench. When fitting a new chain, the chain tension has to be checked frequently until the chain is run-in. Check the chain tension regularly. A correctly tensioned chain gives good cutting performance and long lifetime. A Fit the clutch cover and locate the chain adjuster pin in the hole on the bar. Check that the drive links of the chain fit correctly on the drive sprocket and that the chain is in the groove on the bar. Tighten the bar nuts finger tight. Tension the chain by using the combination wrench. Turn the chain adjuster screw clockwise. The chain should be tensioned until it fits snugly on the underside of the bar. ! Fit the bar over the bar bolts. Place the bar in its rearmost position. Place the chain over the drive sprocket and in the groove on the bar. Begin on the top side of the bar. Make sure that the edges on the cutting links are facing forward on the top side of the bar. Fitting a spike bumper To fit a spike bumper Ð contact your service agent.
26 Ð English FUEL HANDLING Chain oil ¥ The chain lubrication system is automatic. Always use special chain oil with good adhesive characteristics. ¥ In countries where no special chain oil is available, EP 90 transmission oil can be used. ¥ Never use waste oil. This results in damage to the oil pump, the bar and the chain. ¥ It is important to use oil of the right viscosity according to the air temperature. ¥ In temperatures below 0 oC (32oF) some oils become too viscous. This can overload the oil pump and result in damage to the oil pump components. ¥ Contact your servicing dealer when choosing chain oil. Mixing ¥ Always mix the petrol and oil in a clean container intended for fuel. ¥ Always start by filling half the amount of the petrol to be used. Then add the entire amount of oil. Mix (shake) the fuel mixture. Add the remaining amount of petrol. ¥ Mix (shake) the fuel mixture thoroughly before filling the sawÕs fuel tank. ¥ Do not mix more than approx. 1 months supply of fuel. ¥ If the saw is not used for some time the fuel tank should be emptied and cleaned. Fuelmix Always provide for good ventilation when handling fuel. ! IMPORTANT! The chain saw is equipped with a two-stroke engine and must always been run using a mixture of petrol and two-stroke engine oil. It is important to accurately measure the amount of oil to be mixed to ensure that the correct mixture is obtained. When mixing small amounts of fuel, even small inaccuracies can drastically affect the ratio of the mixture. Petrol ¥ Use good quality unleaded or leaded petrol. ¥ The lowest octane recommended is 90. ¥ If you run the engine on a lower octane grade than 90 so-called, knocking can occur. This gives rise to a high engine temperature, which can result in serious engine damage. ¥ When working with continuous high revs (e.g. delimbing) a higher octane grade is recommended. Two-stroke oil ¥ For the best results use HUSQVARNA two-stroke oil, which is especially developed for chain saws. Mixing ratio 1:50 (2%). ¥ If HUSQVARNA two-stroke oil is not available, you may use another two-stroke oil of good quality that is intended for air cooled engines. Contact your dealer when selecting an oil. Mixing ratio 1:33 (3%)-1:25 (4%). ¥ Never use two-stroke oil intended for water cooled outboard motors, so-called, outboard oil. ¥ Never use oil intended for four-stroke engines. 5 10 15 202%(1:50) 0,10 0,20 0,30 0,403%(1:33) 0,15 0,30 0,45 0,604%(1:25) 0,20 0,40 0,60 0,80 Gasolin Benzin Essence Gasolina Lit.Oil ¥ …l Huile ¥ Aceite Lit. 1 2 1/2 52%(1:50) 2 1/2 6 1/2 12 7/83%(1:33) 3 3/4 9 3/4 19 1/44%(1:25) 5 1/8 12 7/8 25 3/4 US gallonUS fl. oz.
English Ð 27 ! Fuelling Taking the following precautions, will lessen the risk of fire. ¥ Do not smoke or place warm objects in the vicinity of the fuel. ¥ Always shut off the engine before refuelling. ¥ Slowly open the fuel cap, when filling fuel, so that possible overpressure is slowly released. ¥ Tighten the fuel cap carefully after fuelling. ¥ Always move the saw from the fuelling area before starting. Clean around the fuel cap. Clean the fuel and chain oil tanks regularly. The fuel filter should be changed at least once a year. Contamination in the fuel tanks causes malfunction. Make sure the fuel is well mixed by shaking the container before fuelling. The volume of chain oil and fuel tanks are adjusted to each other. Therefore, always fill chain oil and fuel at the same time. FUEL HANDLING Min 3 m (10ft)
28 Ð English Start and stop WARNING! ¥ Never start the saw engine without the bar, chain and clutch cover (chain brake) assembled - or else the clutch can come loose and cause personal injuries. ¥ Always move the saw away from the fueling area before starting. ¥ Place the saw on clear ground and make sure that the chain is not contacting anything. Also, make sure that you have a secure footing. ¥ Keep people and animals well away from the working area. ! Start Grip the front handle with your left hand and hold the saw down by putting your right foot in the rear handle. Pull the starter handle with your right hand and pull out the starter cord slowly until the starter pawls engage. Then pull sharply. Push in the choke control immediately when the engine ignites and make repeated starting attemps. When the engine starts, rapidly give full throttle. Then the throttle latch will disengage. CAUTION! Do not release the starter handle from fully pulled out position as this can cause damage on the saw. Cold engine CHAIN BRAKE: Disengage the chain brake by pulling the hand guard towards the front handle. IGNITION: Move the ignition switch to startposition. CHOKE: Set the choke control in choke position. FAST IDLE: Combined choke/fast idle is received when the choke is moved to choke position. If the saw is fitted with a decompression valve (A): Press the valve to reduce the pressure in the cylinder and make starting easier. Always use the decompression valve when starting the saw. Once the saw has started the valve will automatically return to its original setting. Warm engine Use the same procedure as for starting cold engine but without choke. Fast idle is recived by first set the choke control in choke position, and then back again. A START AND STOP Stop The engine is stopped by switching off the ignition. (Move the ignition switch to stopposition.)
English Ð 29 Carburettor Functioning, Basic setting, Final setting WARNING! Do not start the saw without the bar, chain and clutch cover (chain brake) assembled. If you do, the clutch might come loose and cause severe injuries. Operation ¥ The carburettor governs the engine speed via the throttle. Air/ fuel are mixed in the carburettor. The air/fuel mixture is adjustable. To take advantage of the sawÕs maximum output the setting must be correct. ¥ Adjusting the carburettor means the engine is adapted to local operating conditions, e.g. climate, altitude, petrol and the type of 2-stroke oil used. ¥ The carburettor has three adjustment possibilities: L = Low speed jet. H = High speed jet. T = Adjustment screw for idling. ¥ The fuel quantity required in relation to the air flow, provided by opening the throttle, is adjusted by the L and H-jets. If they are screwed clockwise the air/fuel ratio becomes leaner (less fuel) and if they are turned anti-clockwise the ratio becomes richer (more fuel). A leaner mixture gives a higher engine speed and a richer mixture give a lower engine speed. ¥ The T screw regulates the idling speed. If the screw T is turned clockwise this gives a higher idling speed; anti- clockwise a lower idling speed. Basic setting and running in The carburettor is adjusted to a basic setting when the saw is tested at the factory. 254XP: The basic setting is: H = 1 1/2 turns respective L = 1 1/4 turns. 257: The basic setting is: H = 1 turns respective L = 1 turns. 262XP: The basic setting is: H = 1 turns respective L = 1 turns. To provide the engineÕs components with a good level of lubrication (running in) the carburettor should be set for a richer fuel mixture for the first 3-4 hours of operating. To obtain this adjust the overspeed 6-700 rpm under the recommended max. overspeed. If you do not have the possibility to check the overspeed using a tachometer the H-jet should not be set for a leaner mixture than that stated for the basic setting. The recommended overspeed should not be exceeded. NOTE! If the chain rotates while idling the T screw should be adjusted anti-clockwise until it stops. Fine adjustment ¥ When the saw has been Órun-inÓ the carburettor should be finely adjusted. The fine adjustment should be carried out by qualified person. First adjust the L-jet, then the idling screw T and then the H-jet. The following engine speed applies: Max. overspeed Idling speed 254XP: 13.800 rpm 2.500 rpm 257: 13.500 rpm 2.500 rpm 262XP: 13.500 rpm 2.500 rpm Conditions ¥ Before any adjustments are made the air filter should be clean and the cylinder cowling fitted. Adjusting the carburettor while a dirty air filter is in use will result in a leaner mixture when the filter is finally cleaned. This can give rise to serious engine damage. ¥ Carefully turn the L and H-jets clockwise to the bottom. Now ! turn the jets one turn anti-clockwise. The carburettor is now set to H = 1 and L = 1. ¥ Now start the saw according to the starting instructions and run it warm for 10 minutes. NOTE! If the chain rotates the T screw should be turned anti-clockwise until the chain stops. ¥ Place the saw on a flat surface so that the bar points away from you and so that the bar and chain do not come into contact with the surface or other objects. Low speed needle L Try to find the highest idling speed, turning the low speed needle L clockwise respectively counter- clockwise. When the highest speed has been found, turn the low speed needle L 1/4 turn counter-clockwise. NOTE! If the chain rotates in the idling position, turn the idling speed screw counter- clockwise until the chain stops. Final setting of the idling speed T Adjust the idling speed with the screw T. If it is necessary to re- adjust, first turn the idle speed adjusting screw T clockwise, until the chain starts to rotate. Then turn, counter-clockwise until the chain stops. A correctly adjusted idle speed setting occurs when the engine runs smoothly in every position. It should also be good margin to the rpm when the chain starts to rotate. Contact your servicing dealer, if the idle speed setting cannot be adjusted so that the chain stops. Do not use the saw until it has been properly adjusted or repaired. High speed needle H The high speed needle H influences the power of the saw. A too lean adjusted high speed needle H (high speed needle H closed too much) gives overrevs and damages the engine. Let the saw run at full speed for about 10 seconds. Thereafter, turn the high speed needle H 1/4 turn counter-clockwise. Let the saw run again at full speed for about 10 seconds and note the difference of the enginesound. Repeat this procedure with the high speed needle H turned 1/4 turn more counter-clockwise. The saw has now been tested with the following settings: H=±0, H=+1/4, H=+1/2 from basic adjustment. At full speed the engine has produced a different sound for each setting. The high speed needle H is correctly set when the saw Ó4-cyclesÓ a little. If the saw Ówhist- lesÓ the setting is too lean. If there is too much exhaust gas at the same time as the saw Ó4-cyclesÓ much, the setting is too rich. Turn the high speed needle H until the setting sounds correct. NOTE! For optimum setting of the carburettor, contact a qualified servicing dealer who has a revolution counter at his disposal. The maximum speed recommended must not be exceeded. Correctly adjusted carburettor A correctly adjusted carburettor means that the saw accelerates without hesitation and the saw 4-cycles a little at max speed. Furthermore, the chain must not rotate at idling. A too lean adjusted low speed needle L may cause starting difficulties and bad acceleration. A too lean adjusted high speed needle H gives lower power=less capacity, bad acceleration and/or damage to the engine. A too rich adjustment of the two speed needles L and H gives acceleration problems or too low working speed. ! MAINTENANCE L + 1/4 H
30 Ð English Starter device WARNING! ¥ When the recoil spring is assembled in the starter housing, it is in tensioned position and can when treated carelessly, pop out and cause injuries. ¥ Always be careful, when changing the recoil spring or the starter cord. Always wear safety goggles for eye protection. ! MAINTENANCE Tensioning the recoil spring ¥ Lift the starter cord up in the notch on the starter pulley and turn the starter pulley 2 turns clockwise. NOTE! Check that the starter pulley can be turned at least half a turn, when the starter cord is entirely pulled out. Starter device assembly ¥ Assemble the starter device, by pulling the starter cord out first, then place the starter against the crankcase. Then slowly release the starter cord so that the pulley engages with the pawls. ¥ Assemble and tighten the screws, which hold the starter. Changing the broken recoil spring ¥ Lift the starter pulley. (SeeÓChanging a broken or worn starter cordÓ). The recoil spring is disassembled from the starter device, with its inside facing down. Tap the starter lightly against a working bench or similar. ¥ Put a new recoil spring in the right position. If the spring pops out when assembling, it should be mounted again, out and in towards the centre. ¥ Lubricate the recoil spring with thin oil. Assemble the starter pulley, and tension the recoil spring. Changing a broken or worn starter cord ¥ Loosen the screws, that hold the starter device against the crankcase and remove the starter device. ¥ Pull out the cord approx. 30 cm and lift it up into the notch in the pulley. Zero-set the recoil spring by letting the pulley rotate slowly backwards. Undo the screw in the centre of the pulley and remove the pulley. ¥ Insert and fasten a new starter cord in the pulley. Wind approx. 3 turns of the starter cord on to the pulley. Assemble the starter pulley against the recoil spring, so the end of the spring engages to the pulley. Fit the screw in the centre of the pulley. Carry the starter cord through the hole in the starter housing and the starter handle. Make a knot on the starter cord.