Husqvarna Z 254 Manual
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English Ð 11 ! SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS C Some terms that describe the bar and chain When the cutting equipment supplied with your saw becomes worn or damaged you will need to replace it. Use only the type of bar and chain recommended by us. See the ÓTechnical dataÓsection to find out which equipment is recommended for your saw. Bar ¥ LENGTH (inches/cm) ¥ NUMBER OF TEETH ON BAR TIP SPROCKET (T). Small number = small tip radius = low-kickback ¥ CHAIN PITCH (inches) The spacing between the drive links of the chain must match the spacing of the teeth on the bar tip sprocket and drive sprocket. ¥ NUMBER OF DRIVE LINKS The number of drive links is determined by the length of the bar, the chain pitch and the number of teeth on the bar tip sprocket. ¥ BAR GROOVE WIDTH (inches/mm) The groove in the bar must match the width of the chain drive links. ¥ SAW CHAIN OIL HOLE AND HOLE FOR CHAIN TENSIONER The bar must be matched to the chain saw design. Saw chain ¥ SAW CHAIN PITCH (inches) Spacing between drive links. ¥ DRIVE LINK WIDTH (mm/ inches) ¥ NUMBER OF DRIVE LINKS ¥ LEVEL OF KICKBACK REDUCTION The level of kickback reduction offered by a chain is indicated by its model number. See the ÓTechnical dataÓsection to find the model numbers of chains that are recommended for use with your saw. 1 Cutting equipment designed to minimise kickback Faulty cutting equipment or the wrong combination of bar and chain increases the risk of kickback. Use only the bar and chain combinations recommended in the ÓTechnical dataÓ section. The only way to avoid kickback is to make sure that the kick- back zone of the bar never touches anything. By using cutting equipment with Òbuilt-inÓ kickback protection and keeping the chain sharp and well-maintained you can reduce the effects of kickback. A Bar The smaller the tip radius the smaller the kickback zone and the lower the chance of kickback. B Saw chain A saw chain is made up of a number of links, which are available in standard and low-kickback versions. None Standard Low-kickback CUTTING LINK DRIVE LINK SIDE LINK Combining these links in different ways gives different degrees of kickback reduction. In terms of kickback reduction alone, four different types of link are available. Kickback reduction Cutting link Drive link Side link LOW STANDARD HIGH EXTRA HIGH
12 Ð English SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ! 2 Sharpening your chain and adjusting raker clearance The risk of kickback is increased with a badly sharpened chain! A General information on sharpening cutting teeth ¥ Never use a blunt chain. When the chain is blunt you have to exert more pressure to force the bar through the wood and the cuttings will be very small. If the chain is very blunt it will not produce any cuttings at all, just wood powder. ¥ A sharp chain eats its way through the wood and produces long, thick cuttings. ¥ The cutting part of the chain is called the CUTTING LINK and this consists of a CUTTING TOOTH (A) and the RAKER LIP (B). The cutting depth is determined by the difference in height between the two. ¥ When you sharpen a cutting tooth there are five important factors to remember. FILING ANGLE CUTTING ANGLE FILE POSITION ROUND FILE DIAMETER FILE DEPTH See the ÓTechnical dataÓ section for information about sharpening your saw chain. ! It is very difficult to sharpen a chain correctly without the right equipment. We recommend you use a file gauge. This will help you obtain the maximum kickback reduction and cutting performance from your chain. The following faults will increase the risk of kickback considerably. ¥ FILE ANGLE TOO LARGE ¥ CUTTING ANGLE TOO SMALL ¥ FILE DIAMETER TOO SMALL B Sharpening cutting teeth To sharpen cutting teeth you will need a ROUND FILE and a FILE GAUGE. See the ÓTechnical dataÓ section for information on the size of file and gauge that are recommended for your saw chain. 1 Check that the chain is correctly tensioned. A slack chain is difficult to sharpen correctly. 2 Always file cutting teeth from the inside face, reducing the pressure on the return stroke. File all the teeth on one side first, then turn the saw over and file the teeth on the other side. 3 File all the teeth to the same length. When the length of the cutting teeth is reduced to 4 mm (0,16) the chain is worn out and should be replaced. B A 1 5 min 4 mm (0,16)
English Ð 13 ! C General advice on setting raker clearance ¥ When you sharpen the cutting teeth you reduce the RAKER CLEARANCE (cutting depth). To maintain cutting performance you must file back the raker teeth to the recommended height. See the ÓTechnical dataÓ section to find the raker clearance for your saw chain. ¥ On a low-kickback cutting link the front edge of the raker lip is rounded. It is very important that you maintain this radius or bevel when you adjust the raker clearance. ¥ We recommend the use of a raker gauge to achieve the correct clearance and bevel on the raker lip. The risk of kickback is increased if the raker clearance is too large! SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS D Setting the raker clearance ¥ Before setting the raker clearance the cutting teeth should be newly sharpened. We recommend that you adjust the raker clearance every third time you sharpen the chain. NOTE! This recommendation assumes that the length of the cutting teeth is not reduced excessively. ¥ To adjust the raker clearance you will need a FLAT FILE and a RAKER GAUGE. ¥ Place the gauge over the raker lip. ¥ Place the file over the part of the lip that protrudes through the gauge and file off the excess. The clearance is correct when you no longer feel any resistance as you draw the file over the gauge. 3 Tensioning the chain ! ¥ The more you use a chain the longer it becomes. It is therefore important to adjust the chain regularly to take up the slack. ¥ Check the chain tension every time you refuel. NOTE! A new saw chain has a running-in period during which you should check the tension more frequently. ¥ Tension the chain as tightly as possible, but not so tight that you cannot pull it round freely by hand.A slack chain may jump off and cause serious or even fatal injury.
14 Ð English 1 Undo the bar nuts that hold the clutch cover and chain brake, using the combination spanner. Then tighten the nuts by hand as tight as you can. 2 Raise the tip of the bar and stretch the chain by tightening the chain tensioning screw using the combination spanner. Tighten the chain until it hangs slack on the underside of the bar. 3 Use the combination spanner to tighten the bar nuts while lifting the tip of the bar at the same time. Check that you can pull the chain round freely by hand and that it is not slack on the bottom of the bar. The position of the chain tensioning screw varies from model to model. See the Ó What is whatÓ section to find out where it is on your saw. SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS 4 Lubricating cutting equipment Poor lubrication of cutting equipment may cause the chain to snap and lead to serious, even fatal injuries. Prolonged inhalation of exhaust gases from the engine, chain lubrication oil mist and/or saw dust can be unhealthy. A Chain oil ¥ Chainsaw chain oil must demonstrate good adhesion to the chain and also maintain its flow caracteristics regardless of whether it is warm summer or cold winter weather. ¥ As a chainsaw manufacturer we have developed an optimal chain oil which, with its vegetable oil base, is also biodegradable. We recommend the use of our own oil for both maximum chain life and to minimise environmental damage. ¥ If our own chain oil is not available, standard chain oil is recommended. ¥ In areas where oil specifically for lubrication of saw chains is unavailable, ordinary EP 90 transmission oil may be used. ¥Never use waste oil! This is dangerous for yourself, the saw and the environment. B Filling with chain oil ¥ All our chain saws have an automatic chain lubrication system. On some models the oil flow is also adjustable. ¥ The sizes of the chain oil tank and fuel tank have been chosen so that the saw will run out of fuel before running out of oil. This means that you should never run with a dry chain. However, this safety feature requires that you use the right sort of chain oil (if the oil is too thin it will run out before the fuel), and that you adjust the carburettor as recommended (a weak mixture may mean that the fuel lasts longer than the oil). You should also use the recommended cutting equipment (a bar that is too long will use more chain oil). The above conditions also apply to models with an adjustable oil pump. ! !
English Ð 15 C Checking chain lubrication ¥ Check the chain lubrication each time you refuel. Aim the tip of the saw at a light coloured surface about 20 cm away. After 1 minute running at 3/4 throttle you should see a distinct line of oil on the light surface. If the chain lubrication is not working: 1 Check that the oil channel in the bar is not obstructed. Clean if necessary. 2 Check that the groove in the edge of the bar is clean. Clean if necessary. 3 Check that the bar tip sprocket turns freely and that the lubricating hole in the tip is not blocked. Clean and lubricate if necessary. If the chain lubrication system is still not working after carrying out the above measures you should contact your service agent. D Lubricating the bar tip sprocket ¥ Lubricate the bar tip sprocket each time you refuel. Use the special grease gun and a good quality bearing grease. SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS E Lubricating the clutch drum bearing ¥ Between the engine drive shaft and the clutch drum is a needle bearing that must be lubricated daily. Use the specially designed grease gun and a good quality bearing grease. F Checking wear on cutting equipment Saw chain Check the saw chain daily for: ¥ Visible cracks in rivets and links. ¥ Whether the chain is stiff. ¥ Whether rivets and links are badly worn. We recommend you compare the existing chain with a new chain to decide how badly it is worn. When the length of the cutting teeth has worn down to only 4 mm the chain must be replaced. G Chain drive sprocket The clutch drum is fitted with one of the following drive sprockets: A SPUR (integral drive sprocket) B RING (replaceable) Regularly check the degree of wear on the drive sprocket. Replace if wear is excessive. Replace the drive sprocket whenever you replace the chain. A B min 4 mm (0,16)
16 Ð English H Bar Check regularly: ¥ Whether there are burrs on the edges of the bar. Remove these with a file if necessary. ¥ Whether the groove in the bar has become badly worn. Replace the bar if necessary. ¥ Whether the tip of the bar is uneven or badly worn. If a hollow forms on one side of the bar tip this is due to a slack chain. ¥ To prolong the life of the bar you should turn it over daily. MOST CHAIN SAW ACCIDENTS HAPPEN WHEN THE CHAIN TOUCHES THE OPERA- TOR. ¥ WEAR PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT (see the section on ÓChain saw safety equipmentÓ). ¥ DO NOT TACKLE ANY JOB YOU ARE UNSURE OF (see the section on ÓPersonal protective equipmentÓ ,ÓHow to avoid kickbackÓ, ÓGeneral working instructionsÓ and ÓCutting equipmentÓ). ¥ AVOID SITUATIONS WHERE THERE IS A RISK OF KICKBACK (see the section on ÓPersonal protective equipmentÓ). ¥ USE THE RECOMMENDED PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT AND CHECK ITS CONDITION (see section on ÓGeneral working instructionsÓ). ¥ CHECK THAT ALL SAFETY FUNCTIONS ARE WORKING (see section on ÓGeneral working instructionsÓ and ÓGeneral safety precautionsÓ). ! SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS HOW TO AVOID KICKBACK Kickback can happen very suddenly and violently; kicking the saw, bar and chain back at the user. If this happens when the chain is moving it can cause very serious, even fatal injuries. It is vital you understand what causes kickback and that you can avoid it by taking care and using the right working technique. What is kickback? The word kickback is used to describe the sudden reaction that happens when the upper quadrant of the tip of the bar (known as the Òkickback zoneÓ) touches an object and the saw is kicked backwards. Kickback always occurs in the cutting plane of the saw. Normally the saw and bar are thrown backwards and upwards towards the user. However the saw may move in a different direction depending on the way it was being used when the kickback zone of the bar touched the object. Kickback only occurs if the kickback zone of the bar touches an object. !
English Ð 17 ! 6 Take great care when you cut with the top edge of the bar, i.e. when cutting from the underside of the object. This is known as cutting on the push stroke. The chain tries to push the saw back towards the user. Unless the user resists this pushing force there is a risk that the saw will move so far backwards that only the kickback zone of the bar is in contact with the tree. This will cause kickback. Cutting with the bottom edge of the bar, i.e. from the top of the object downwards, is known as cutting on the pull stroke. In this case the saw pulls itself towards the tree and the front edge of the saw provides a natural rest when cutting. Cutting on the pull stroke gives you better control over the saw and the position of the kickback zone. 7 Follow the instructions on sharpening and maintaining your bar and chain. When you replace the bar and chain use only combinations that are recommended by us. See the sections on ÓCutting equipmentÓ and ÓTechnical dataÓ. The risk of kickback is increased if you use the wrong cutting equipment or a chain that is not sharpened correctly. The wrong combination of bar and chain can increase the risk of kickback! General rules 1 If you understand what kickback is and how it happens then you can reduce or eliminate the element of surprise. By being prepared you reduce the risk. Kickback is usually quite mild, but it can sometimes be very sudden and violent. 2 Always hold the saw firmly with your right hand on the rear handle and your left hand on the front handle. Wrap your fingers and thumb around the hand- les. You should use this grip whether you are right-handed or left- handed. This grip minimises the effect of kickback and lets you keep the saw under control. Do not let go of the handles! 3 Most kickback accidents happen during limbing. Make sure you are standing firmly and that there is nothing in the way that might make you trip or lose your balance. Lack of concentration can lead to kickback if the kickback zone of the bar accidentally touches a branch, nearby tree or some other object. 4 Never use the saw above shoulder height and try not to cut with the tip of the bar. Never use the saw one- handed! 5 Always use a fast cutting speed, i.e. full throttle. SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
18 Ð English SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS GENERAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS 1 Chain saws are designed solely for cutting wood. The only cutting equipment that can be used with this chain saw are the combinations of bars and chains recommended in the ÓTechnical dataÓ section. 2 Never use a chain saw if you are tired, if you have drunk alcohol, or if you are taking medication that affects your vision, your judgement or your co- ordination. 3 Always wear suitable protective clothing. See the section on ÓPersonal protective equipmentÓ. 4 Never use a chain saw that has been modified in any way from its original specification. 5 Never use a chain saw that is faulty. Carry out the regular checks, maintenance and service routines described in this manual. Some maintenance and service measures must be carried out by trained specialists. See the section on ÓMaintenanceÓ. 7 FUEL SAFETY (Refuelling, fuel mixture, storage.) Fuel and fuel vapour are highly inflammable. Take care when handling fuel and chain oil. Keep away from naked flames and do not breathe in fuel vapour. ¥ Never try to refuel the saw while it is running. ¥ Make sure there is plenty of ventilation when refuelling or mixing fuel (2-stroke mixture). ¥ Move the saw at least 3 m from the refuelling point before starting it. ¥ Never start the chainsaw: a) If you have spilt fuel or chain oil on the saw. Wipe off the spill and allow remaining fuel to evaporate. b) If you spill fuel or chain oil on yourself or your clothes. Change your clothes. c) If there is a fuel leak. Check regularly for leaks from the FUEL CAP and FUEL LINES. ¥ Always store the chain saw and fuel away from any sources of sparks or naked flames, e.g. machines, electric motors, relays, switches, boilers, etc. ¥ Always store fuel in an approved container designed for that purpose. ¥ For longer periods of storage or for transport of the saw, the fuel and chain oil tanks should be emptied. Ask where you can dispose of waste fuel and chain oil at your local petrol station. 8 Never use any accessories other than those recommended in this manual. See the sections on ÓCutting equipmentÓand ÓTechnical dataÓ. The risk of accident is increased if you use the wrong cutting equipment or a chain that is not sharpened correctly. Using the wrong combi- nation of bar and chain can increase the risk of accidents! ! Min. 3 m (10 ft) ! 6 STARTING ¥ Never start a chain saw unless the bar, chain and clutch cover are fitted correctly. (See section on ÓAssemblyÓ). ¥ Never start a chain saw indoors. Exhaust fumes can be dangerous. ¥ Before starting the saw make sure there are no people or animals nearby who might be put at risk. ¥ Place the saw on the ground and hold the rear handle down with your right foot. Grasp the front handle firmly using your left hand. Make sure the chain saw is steady and the chain is not touching the ground. Then grasp the starter handle with your right hand and pull the starter cord. Prolonged inhalation of exhaust gases from the engine, chain lubrication oil mist and/or saw dust can be unhealthy. !
English Ð 19 ! SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS GENERAL WORKING INSTRUCTIONS This section describes basic safety rules for using a chain saw. This information is no substitute for professional skills and experience. If you get into a situation where you feel unsafe, stop and seek expert advice (look under FORESTRY SERVICES in the telephone directory). DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY TASK THAT YOU FEEL UNSURE OF! Important 1 Before using a chain saw you must understand the effects of kickback and what causes it. (See the section on ÓHow to avoid kickbackÓ.) 2 Before using a saw you must understand the difference between sawing with the top and bottom edges of the bar. (See the section on ÓHow to avoid kickbackÓ.) 1 Basic safety rules 1 Look around you: ¥ to make sure there are no people, animals or other objects nearby that might affect your work. ¥ to make sure that none of the above might come within reach of your saw or be injured by falling trees. Follow the instructions above, but do not use a chain saw in a situation where you cannot call for help in case of an accident. 2 Do not use the saw in bad weather, such as dense fog, heavy rain, strong wind, intense cold, etc. Working in cold weather is tiring and often brings added risks, such as icy ground, unpredictable felling direction, etc. 3 Take great care when removing small branches and avoid cutting bushes (i.e. cutting many small branches at the same time). Small branches can be grabbed by the chain and thrown back at you, causing serious injury.4 Check the area around you for possible obstacles such as roots, rocks, branches, ditches, etc., in case you have to move suddenly. Take great care when working on sloping ground. 5 Take the utmost care when cutting through branches or logs that are in tension. A log or branch that is in tension can suddenly spring back into its natural position before or after you cut it. If you stand on the wrong side or start cutting in the wrong place it may strike you or your chain saw. This could make you lose control and cause a serious accident. 6 Before moving your chain saw switch off the engine and lock the chain using the chain brake. Carry the saw with the bar and chain pointing backwards. Fit a guard to the bar before carrying the saw any distance. 7 Never put a chain saw down while the engine is running unless you have it in clear view and the chain brake is on. Switch the engine off before leaving your chain saw for any length of time.
20 Ð English ! SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Two factors decide whether the chain will jam or the log will split. The first is how the log is supported and the second is whether it is in tension. In most cases you can avoid these problems by cutting in two stages; from the top and from the bottom of the log. You need to support the log so that it will not trap the chain or split during cutting. If the chain jams in the cut: STOP THE ENGINE! DonÕt try to pull the saw free. If you do you may damage the chain when the saw suddenly breaks free. Use a lever to open up the cut and free the bar. The following instructions describe how to handle most types of situation that you will be faced with when using a chain saw. Cutting 1 The log is lying on the ground. There is little risk of the chain jamming or the log splitting. However there is a risk that the chain will touch the ground when you finish the cut. Cut all the way through the log from above. Try not to touch the ground as you finish the cut. Maintain full throttle but be prepared in case the chain snatches. A If it is possible to turn the log you should stop cutting about 2/3 of the way through. B Turn the log and finish the cut from the opposite side. 2 Basic cutting technique General ¥Always use full throttle when cutting! ¥Reduce the speed to idle after every cut (running the engine for too long at full throttle without any load can lead to serious engine damage). ¥ Cutting from above = Cutting on the pull stroke. ¥ Cutting from below = Cutting on the push stroke. See the section on ÓHow to avoid kickbackÓ to find out why cutting on the push stroke increases the risk of kickback. Terms: Cutting = General term for cutting through wood. Limbing = Cutting limbs off a felled tree. Splitting = When the object you are cutting breaks off before the cut is complete. There are five important factors you should consider before making a cut: 1 Make sure the bar will not jam in the cut. 2 Make sure the log will not split. 3 Make sure the chain will not strike the ground or any other object during or after cutting. 4 Is there a risk of kick- back? 5 Do the conditions and surrounding terrain affect your safety when working?