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Husqvarna Designer 1 Instruction Manual

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    							51
    Utility/Garment Sewing
    Menu B
    Buttonhole 
    On your Designer I, select from 15 different but-
    tonhole styles. There is one for every type of fabric 
    and garment. Because the Sen sor Buttonhole 
    Foot measures as it sews, every buttonhole will be 
    the same size. The buttonhole styles on your De-
    signer I are listed below:
    B1 B2 B3
    B14 B13 B9 B10 B11B6
    B18 B17 B16 B4 B5 B7
    B8
    B12
    B19
    B15 B4 Round End Buttonhole for blouses and 
    children’s garments.
    B5 Heavy Reinforced Buttonhole for utility and 
    heavy fabrics.
    B6 Medium Reinforced Buttonhole for me di um 
    wool and Tyrolean jackets.
    B7 Medium Reinforced Decorative Buttonhole 
    for me di um wool.
    B8, B9 Heirloom Buttonhole for ”hand look” on 
    fi ne and delicate fabrics.
    B10 Keyhole Buttonhole with square end for 
    tailored jackets, coats, etc.
    B11 Keyhole Buttonhole with tapered end for 
    tailored garments.
    B12 Heavy Duty buttonhole with reinforced bar-
    tacks.
    B13 Decorative Fashion Buttonhole for most fa-
    bric weights. 
    B14 Straight Stitch Buttonhole for leather and 
    suede.
    B15 Straight Stitch Buttonhole with extra cutting 
    space for bound buttonholes. 
    B16 For sewing buttons
    B17 Round eyelet for belts, laces, etc.
    B18 Teardrop eyelet for laces, embellishments.
    B19 Oval eyelet for laces, embellishments. B1 Bartack Buttonhole for medium and heavy 
    fabrics with extra cutting space.
    B2 Bartack Buttonhole for most fabric 
    weights.
    B3 Round End Buttonhole for light weight 
    fabrics. 
    						
    							52Utility/Garment Sewing
    Corded Buttonhole (Stretch fa-
    brics)
    •  Loop a piece of heavy thread or perle cotton 
    over the fi nger at the back of the Sensor But-
    tonhole Foot or the C presser foot 
    •  Stitch a buttonhole. Do not hold back the 
    cord. The satin buttonhole columns will stitch 
    over the cord. 
    •  Stop sewing before the last end of the but-
    tonhole is sewn and lift the cord off the fi nger 
    and pull out the slack. 
    •  Cross the cord in front of the needle and 
    stitch the end of the buttonhole over the cord. 
    •  Thread cord ends into a large needle, pull to 
    the wrong side and knot ends before cutting 
    excess.
    Step by step buttonhole
    •  Select buttonhole. and snap on Presser Foot C
    •  Begin sewing buttonhole, the machine will 
    sew the left column in reverse. The button-
    hole foot has guide lines to determine the 
    buttonhole length. Use the markings on the 
    left toe of the Buttonhole Foot to position the 
    garment edge. When the buttonhole is the 
    desired length, touch 
      . The machine will 
    bar tack the end and stitch the right side. 
    • Touch 
       to bar tack and tie off. Keep the 
    foot control depressed until the machine ties 
    off and stops sewing. The Thread Cutter cuts 
    the threads automatically when the button-
    hole is completed.
    Buttonhole balance
    To balance the stitch dens ity of the right but-
    tonhole column to the left, when a buttonhole is 
    selected, touch 
      . The balance icon is now a 
    buttonhole.
    Note: Only the right side stitch column will be 
    adjusted. Balance it to match the left stitch column.
       will make the stitches in the right column 
    closer together (more dense). 
       will make the 
    stitches further apart (less dense). 
    The set ting will be re tai ned until the De sig ner I 
    is turned off.
    To change the stitch density of both columns, 
    see Buttonhole Density.
    5/8" (15 mm) 
    						
    							53
    Utility/Garment Sewing
    12
    34
    56
    7
    Buttonhole Density
    To adjust the density of the buttonhole, touch 
      . Increase stitch length  
     to make stitch 
    columns less dense. Decrease stitch length 
       to 
    make stitch columns more dense. Both columns 
    will be adjusted.
    Cutting Buttonholes
    Cut buttonhole open with the seam ripper. 
    Tip: Place a straight pin across the end you are 
    cutting toward to avoid cutting too far!
    Bound buttonhole
    For all types of fabrics.
    Fabric: 1 piece Chino and Broadcloth. Cut a 
    patch of broadcloth 2’’x 3’’(50mm x 80mm) for 
    the buttonhole.
    Touch: Woven medium on Sewing Advisor. But-
    tonhole Menu B, Buttonhole B15.
    Snap on: Presser foot A as recommended.
    Use: Size 80 needle as recommended.
    Sew:
    Place Broadcloth piece and Chino fabric right 
    sides together.
    1. Stitch Buttonhole B11.
    2. Cut the buttonhole down the center to 1/4’’ 
    (6mm) from each end. Cut to the corners at 
    each end to form a triangle as illustrated.
    3. Press the end triangles away from the button-
    hole.
    4. Pull the broadcloth through the buttonhole 
    opening to the wrong side. Fold the broad-
    cloth so the edges of the buttonhole are for-
    med and meet at the center of the buttonhole 
    opening, forming a pleat at each end on the 
    wrong side.
    5. From the right side fold back the end of the 
    buttonhole to expose a triangle.
    6. Touch straight stitch A2. Touch 
     
    , stitch 
    length 1.5 and stitch across the base of the 
    triangle catching the pleat of the rectangle to 
    secure it.
    7. Topstitch the buttonhole from the right side 
    “in the ditch”.
    The wrong side of a bound buttonhole is fi nis-
      hed when the garment facing or lining is slit and 
    hand stitched to the wrong side of the opening. 
    						
    							54Utility/Garment Sewing
    Menu A
    Utility Stitches
    Menu A includes the stitches selected by the Se-
    wing Advisor and a row of additional stitches 
    which are described below. Touch the picture of 
    the stitch to select it.
    You can, if needed, make adjustments in stitch 
    length and width in the ADJUST Menu and ad-
    justments in thread tension and presser foot pres-
    sure in the SET Menu.
    Straight Stitch
    Touch: Woven medium in the Sewing Advisor, 
    and Menu A – Utility Stitches on the Main Menu.
    Select: Straight Stitch, A2. 
    Your Designer I will automatically make the 
    stan dard settings. The Color Touch Screen will 
    show you all in for ma tion you need to get the 
    best result.
    Lightning Stitch (Stretch Stitch)
    Touch: Stretch light in the Sewing Advisor and  
    Menu A – Utility Stitches on the Main Menu. Se-
    lect: Stretch Stitch A5. Your De sig ner I will auto-
    matically make the stan dard settings. The Color 
    Touch Screen will show you all in for ma tion you 
    need to get the best result.
    Gathering
    A basting stitch is also used for gathering.
    • Touch 
       to select stitch length of 3.5 to 
    6.0 for gathering. Use shorter stitch length for 
    lighter weight fabrics.
    •  Place a single thickness of fabric under pres -
      ser foot and stitch.
    •  Stitch a second row next to the fi rst.
    •  Pull both bobbin threads to gather fabric. Be 
    ca re ful not to pull them out. 
    						
    							55
    Utility/Garment Sewing
    Twenty-fi ve Needle positions
    Your Designer I has twenty-fi ve different needle 
    positions for the most accurate seaming and top-
    stitching ever. When sewing straight stitch or re-
    inforced straight stitch, the needle positions can 
    be adjusted in steps. To edge stitch, you should 
    take advantage of the dif fe rent needle positions.
    Fabric: Woven medium
    Touch: Woven medium on the Sewing Advisor,  
    and  Stitch A2 on the Utility Menu A.
    Use: Presser foot A and size 80 needle as recom-
    mended.
    Sew:
    •  Fold fabric in two and put it in position under 
    the presser foot.
    •  If you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot 
      . 
    Step on foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers 
    automatically. Stitch with center needle po-
      si tion.
    • Touch 
      . Touch stitch width  
     to move 
    needle 12 steps to 6 left needle position 
    = Stitch A1. 
     Touch 
       to move needle 12 steps to 6 right 
    needle position = Stitch A3.
      Touch stitch width 
       to move needle back 
    to center position.
    1. To sew about 1/4" (6mm) from the edge, use 
    presser foot A and set the needle to 6 right 
    po si tion. To get the maximum feeding when 
    edge stitching close to the edge, place the 
    edge of the fabric so that it follows the out-
    side right edge of the presser foot and sew.
    2. To get the maximum feeding when edge stit-
    ching close to the edge, place the fabric and 
    sew with left needle po si tion so that the edge 
    follows the in si de right edge of the pres ser 
    foot D, or the fi rst mark of the left edge of the 
    pres ser foot A. 
    Use presser foot A when sewing light fabrics and 
    presser foot D for other fabrics.
    .
    .
    .
    Tip: Snap on the optional Edge Stitching Foot or 
    Edge Joining Foot for topstitching with dif fe rent 
    needle positions. 1
    2 
    						
    							56Utility/Garment Sewing
    Center zipper
    Fabric: Woven medium
    Touch: Woven medium on the Sewing Advisor
    Use: Size 80 needle.
    Touch: Seam on the Sewing Advisor and sew 
    the two fabrics together along the 5/8’’ (15mm) 
    seam line up to the notch at the zipper pla ce -
    ment. 
    Touch: Baste on the Sewing Advisor and baste 
    the zipper area of the seam together. Press the 
    seam open. Pla ce the zipper right side to the 
    pres sed open seam allowance. Close the Sewing 
    Advisor. 
    Touch: Menu V. To bar tack baste zipper in 
    pla ce, touch Zigzag stitch V2. Lower the feed 
    teeth by turning the dial to 
       . Move the fa-
    bric to stitch a series of bar tacks over the zipper 
    to hold it in place. Turn the feed teeth dial to 
    sewing position 
       .
    Touch: Menu A, A1 for left needle position 
    straight stitch.
    Snap on: Zipper foot E. Snap it on so the need-
    le is on the left side of the foot. There are two 
    bars on the foot so you can snap on the foot to 
    the right or left of the needle. Place fabric under 
    the foot right side up with the zipper foot to on 
    the right side of the zipper.
    If you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot 
      .
    Sew:
    •  Step on the foot control. The Sensor Foot lo-
    wers automatically.
    •  Begin stitching across the bottom, turn and 
    stitch the right side of the zipper to the top.
    •  To avoid fabric shifting, sew the left side of 
    the zipper in the same direction, touch A3 
    for right needle position straight stitch. Snap 
    on zipper foot E so the needle is on the right 
    side of the foot.
    •  Begin stitching across the bottom, turn and 
    stitch the left side of the zipper sewing from 
    the bottom to the top.
    •  Remove bartacks and basting stitch. 
    Note: To adjust the position of the stitching line, 
    adjust the needle position. Touch 
      , Touch 
    stitch width 
       to move the needle towards the 
    cen ter position. 
    						
    							57
    Utility/Garment Sewing
    Reinforced Straight Stitch
    The Reinforced Straight Stitch is stronger than 
    ordinary straight stitch, due to the fact that it is a 
    triple and elastic stitch. The Reinforced Straight 
    Stitch can be used for for all heavy fabrics, for 
    crotch seams that are subject to considerable 
    strain and for topstitching on heavy fabrics. 
    Repair garment seams in stress areas with this 
    stitch.
    Fabric: Woven heavy
    Touch: Woven heavy on the fabric screen on 
    the Sewing Advisor and Stitch A8 on the Utility 
    Stitch Menu.
    Snap on: Presser foot B as recommended. 
    Use: Size 80 needle as recommended. Put the 
    fabric in position under the presser foot.
    If you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot 
      .
    Sew:
    •  Step on foot control. The Sen sor Foot lowers 
    automatically. 
    •  Stitch 5/8" (15mm) from the bias fold edge.
    •  Touch A7. Touch 
       and increase stitch 
    length to 4.5. You may use presser foot D and 
    sew a row of topstitching along the edge of 
    the fold.
    • Touch 
      .
    Note: Increase the stitch length on the Reinforced 
    Straight Stitch for impressive topstitching. 
    						
    							58Utility/Garment Sewing
    Multiple ZigZag Stitches
    The multiple zigzag stitches on the Utility Menu 
    A look like a zigzag stitch with straight stitches 
    in the “zig” and the “zag” of the stitch. Stitch 
    A13 – three-step zigzag – is up to 1/4" (6 mm) 
    wide and suitable for light and medium fabrics. 
    Stitch A15 is a 7/16" (9 mm) wide multiple zig-
    zag, used for loosely woven and heavy fabrics. 
    Use these stitches for over cas ting, butting two 
    edges together to join them, men ding tears and 
    other special fi nishing. 
    Stitch A14 is a serpentine stitch used for men-
      ding and darning stretch fabrics.
    Touch: Woven-Medium in the Sewing Advisor 
    and Menu A – Utility Stitches on the Main Menu. 
    Select: Three-step zigzag stitch A13. Your De-
      sig ner I will automatically make the stan dard 
    settings. The Color Touch Screen will show you 
    all in for ma tion you need to get the best result.
    Snap on: Presser foot J or A as recommended.
    Use: Size 80 needle as recommended.
    Put the fabric in position under the presser foot.
    If you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot 
      .
    Sew:
    •  Step on foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers 
    automatically.
    •  Sew to overcast the edge of fabric.
    • Touch 
      .
    Stitch A15 is used for loosely woven and heavy 
    fabrics. 
    Stitch A14 – the serpentine stitch – used to sew 
    an overlapped seam and for men ding and dar-
    ning stretch fabrics. 
    						
    							59
    Utility/Garment Sewing
    Darning and Mending 
    Stitches A33-35
    Darning a small hole or a tear before it becomes 
    larger can save a garment. Choose the fi nest th-
    read in the closest color match possible.
    Fabric: Woven heavy
    Touch: Woven heavy on the Sewing Advisor. 
    Poke a small hole to darn. Touch Menu A, Utility 
    Stitches, Touch Darning Stitch A33.
    Snap on: Presser foot A as recommended.
    Use: Size 80 needle as recommended.
    Sew: 
    •  Place fabric in position under the presser foot.
    • Touch Pivot 
       and adjust fabric if necessary. 
    Step on the foot control, The Sen sor foot lo-
    wers automatically.
    •  Begin sewing above the hole and sew down 
    over it.
    •  Once over the hole, touch 
      . Continue se-
    wing. The machine will sew back and forth 
    across the hole 12 times to darn the hole clo-
    sed.
    • Touch 
      . The stitch will now repeat in suc-
      ces sion and the machine will stop automati-
    cally when the stitch is completed.
    • Touch 
      .
    Patching and tears
    Stitch 34 will effi ciently mend a tear.
    •  Touch Stitch 34, which is a mending stitch. 
    Stitch over the tear to mend it. Begin at the 
    top of the tear and sew to the edge of the fa-
    bric. 
    						
    							60Utility/Garment Sewing
    Bartacks
    Secure elastic ends, drapery pleats, belt loops, 
    and pocket corners with the same look as 
    ready-to-wear.
    Fabric: Woven heavy
    Touch: Woven heavy, Menu A, Utility Stitches, 
    Touch Stitch A32 / A36.
    Snap on: Presser Foot B as recommended.
    Use: Size 80 needle as recommended
    Sew, A32:
    •  Place fabric in position under presser foot
    • Touch Pivot 
     and adjust fabric if necessary. 
    Step on the foot control, the Sensor Foot 
    lowers automatically, and stitch.
    • Touch 
    . The machine will stop 
    automatically when the stitch is completed. 
    The machine will automatically tie-off and cut 
    the threads. 
    Sew, A36:
    •  Place fabric in position under presser foot
    • Touch Pivot 
       and adjust fabric if necessary. 
    Step on the foot control, the Sen sor Foot 
    lowers automatically, and stich. The machine 
    will sew a straight stitch until you touch 
    . Your Designer I will then sew in reverse 
    until you touch 
     again. Your Designer I 
    will then sew a zig zag, covering the stratight 
    stitches until you touch 
    . 
    •  The machine will automatically tie-off and cut 
    the threads. 
    Belt Loops
    Touch: Woven heavy, Menu A, Utility Stitches, 
    Touch Stitch A13 Three-step zigzag.
    Snap on: Presser Foot B as recommended.
    Use: Size 80 needle as recommended. Lower the 
    feed teeth 
      .
    Sew:
    •  Fold in about 3/8" (10mm) on the short ends.
    • Place the belt loop on the garment and under 
    the presser foot.
    • Touch Pivot 
       and adjust fabric if necessary. 
    • Sew a bartack from the outer edge to the cen-
      ter of the loop, move the fabric and sew a 
    new bartack. 
    						
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