Husqvarna Designer 1 Instruction Manual
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51 Utility/Garment Sewing Menu B Buttonhole On your Designer I, select from 15 different but- tonhole styles. There is one for every type of fabric and garment. Because the Sen sor Buttonhole Foot measures as it sews, every buttonhole will be the same size. The buttonhole styles on your De- signer I are listed below: B1 B2 B3 B14 B13 B9 B10 B11B6 B18 B17 B16 B4 B5 B7 B8 B12 B19 B15 B4 Round End Buttonhole for blouses and children’s garments. B5 Heavy Reinforced Buttonhole for utility and heavy fabrics. B6 Medium Reinforced Buttonhole for me di um wool and Tyrolean jackets. B7 Medium Reinforced Decorative Buttonhole for me di um wool. B8, B9 Heirloom Buttonhole for ”hand look” on fi ne and delicate fabrics. B10 Keyhole Buttonhole with square end for tailored jackets, coats, etc. B11 Keyhole Buttonhole with tapered end for tailored garments. B12 Heavy Duty buttonhole with reinforced bar- tacks. B13 Decorative Fashion Buttonhole for most fa- bric weights. B14 Straight Stitch Buttonhole for leather and suede. B15 Straight Stitch Buttonhole with extra cutting space for bound buttonholes. B16 For sewing buttons B17 Round eyelet for belts, laces, etc. B18 Teardrop eyelet for laces, embellishments. B19 Oval eyelet for laces, embellishments. B1 Bartack Buttonhole for medium and heavy fabrics with extra cutting space. B2 Bartack Buttonhole for most fabric weights. B3 Round End Buttonhole for light weight fabrics.
52Utility/Garment Sewing Corded Buttonhole (Stretch fa- brics) • Loop a piece of heavy thread or perle cotton over the fi nger at the back of the Sensor But- tonhole Foot or the C presser foot • Stitch a buttonhole. Do not hold back the cord. The satin buttonhole columns will stitch over the cord. • Stop sewing before the last end of the but- tonhole is sewn and lift the cord off the fi nger and pull out the slack. • Cross the cord in front of the needle and stitch the end of the buttonhole over the cord. • Thread cord ends into a large needle, pull to the wrong side and knot ends before cutting excess. Step by step buttonhole • Select buttonhole. and snap on Presser Foot C • Begin sewing buttonhole, the machine will sew the left column in reverse. The button- hole foot has guide lines to determine the buttonhole length. Use the markings on the left toe of the Buttonhole Foot to position the garment edge. When the buttonhole is the desired length, touch . The machine will bar tack the end and stitch the right side. • Touch to bar tack and tie off. Keep the foot control depressed until the machine ties off and stops sewing. The Thread Cutter cuts the threads automatically when the button- hole is completed. Buttonhole balance To balance the stitch dens ity of the right but- tonhole column to the left, when a buttonhole is selected, touch . The balance icon is now a buttonhole. Note: Only the right side stitch column will be adjusted. Balance it to match the left stitch column. will make the stitches in the right column closer together (more dense). will make the stitches further apart (less dense). The set ting will be re tai ned until the De sig ner I is turned off. To change the stitch density of both columns, see Buttonhole Density. 5/8" (15 mm)
53 Utility/Garment Sewing 12 34 56 7 Buttonhole Density To adjust the density of the buttonhole, touch . Increase stitch length to make stitch columns less dense. Decrease stitch length to make stitch columns more dense. Both columns will be adjusted. Cutting Buttonholes Cut buttonhole open with the seam ripper. Tip: Place a straight pin across the end you are cutting toward to avoid cutting too far! Bound buttonhole For all types of fabrics. Fabric: 1 piece Chino and Broadcloth. Cut a patch of broadcloth 2’’x 3’’(50mm x 80mm) for the buttonhole. Touch: Woven medium on Sewing Advisor. But- tonhole Menu B, Buttonhole B15. Snap on: Presser foot A as recommended. Use: Size 80 needle as recommended. Sew: Place Broadcloth piece and Chino fabric right sides together. 1. Stitch Buttonhole B11. 2. Cut the buttonhole down the center to 1/4’’ (6mm) from each end. Cut to the corners at each end to form a triangle as illustrated. 3. Press the end triangles away from the button- hole. 4. Pull the broadcloth through the buttonhole opening to the wrong side. Fold the broad- cloth so the edges of the buttonhole are for- med and meet at the center of the buttonhole opening, forming a pleat at each end on the wrong side. 5. From the right side fold back the end of the buttonhole to expose a triangle. 6. Touch straight stitch A2. Touch , stitch length 1.5 and stitch across the base of the triangle catching the pleat of the rectangle to secure it. 7. Topstitch the buttonhole from the right side “in the ditch”. The wrong side of a bound buttonhole is fi nis- hed when the garment facing or lining is slit and hand stitched to the wrong side of the opening.
54Utility/Garment Sewing Menu A Utility Stitches Menu A includes the stitches selected by the Se- wing Advisor and a row of additional stitches which are described below. Touch the picture of the stitch to select it. You can, if needed, make adjustments in stitch length and width in the ADJUST Menu and ad- justments in thread tension and presser foot pres- sure in the SET Menu. Straight Stitch Touch: Woven medium in the Sewing Advisor, and Menu A – Utility Stitches on the Main Menu. Select: Straight Stitch, A2. Your Designer I will automatically make the stan dard settings. The Color Touch Screen will show you all in for ma tion you need to get the best result. Lightning Stitch (Stretch Stitch) Touch: Stretch light in the Sewing Advisor and Menu A – Utility Stitches on the Main Menu. Se- lect: Stretch Stitch A5. Your De sig ner I will auto- matically make the stan dard settings. The Color Touch Screen will show you all in for ma tion you need to get the best result. Gathering A basting stitch is also used for gathering. • Touch to select stitch length of 3.5 to 6.0 for gathering. Use shorter stitch length for lighter weight fabrics. • Place a single thickness of fabric under pres - ser foot and stitch. • Stitch a second row next to the fi rst. • Pull both bobbin threads to gather fabric. Be ca re ful not to pull them out.
55 Utility/Garment Sewing Twenty-fi ve Needle positions Your Designer I has twenty-fi ve different needle positions for the most accurate seaming and top- stitching ever. When sewing straight stitch or re- inforced straight stitch, the needle positions can be adjusted in steps. To edge stitch, you should take advantage of the dif fe rent needle positions. Fabric: Woven medium Touch: Woven medium on the Sewing Advisor, and Stitch A2 on the Utility Menu A. Use: Presser foot A and size 80 needle as recom- mended. Sew: • Fold fabric in two and put it in position under the presser foot. • If you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot . Step on foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers automatically. Stitch with center needle po- si tion. • Touch . Touch stitch width to move needle 12 steps to 6 left needle position = Stitch A1. Touch to move needle 12 steps to 6 right needle position = Stitch A3. Touch stitch width to move needle back to center position. 1. To sew about 1/4" (6mm) from the edge, use presser foot A and set the needle to 6 right po si tion. To get the maximum feeding when edge stitching close to the edge, place the edge of the fabric so that it follows the out- side right edge of the presser foot and sew. 2. To get the maximum feeding when edge stit- ching close to the edge, place the fabric and sew with left needle po si tion so that the edge follows the in si de right edge of the pres ser foot D, or the fi rst mark of the left edge of the pres ser foot A. Use presser foot A when sewing light fabrics and presser foot D for other fabrics. . . . Tip: Snap on the optional Edge Stitching Foot or Edge Joining Foot for topstitching with dif fe rent needle positions. 1 2
56Utility/Garment Sewing Center zipper Fabric: Woven medium Touch: Woven medium on the Sewing Advisor Use: Size 80 needle. Touch: Seam on the Sewing Advisor and sew the two fabrics together along the 5/8’’ (15mm) seam line up to the notch at the zipper pla ce - ment. Touch: Baste on the Sewing Advisor and baste the zipper area of the seam together. Press the seam open. Pla ce the zipper right side to the pres sed open seam allowance. Close the Sewing Advisor. Touch: Menu V. To bar tack baste zipper in pla ce, touch Zigzag stitch V2. Lower the feed teeth by turning the dial to . Move the fa- bric to stitch a series of bar tacks over the zipper to hold it in place. Turn the feed teeth dial to sewing position . Touch: Menu A, A1 for left needle position straight stitch. Snap on: Zipper foot E. Snap it on so the need- le is on the left side of the foot. There are two bars on the foot so you can snap on the foot to the right or left of the needle. Place fabric under the foot right side up with the zipper foot to on the right side of the zipper. If you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot . Sew: • Step on the foot control. The Sensor Foot lo- wers automatically. • Begin stitching across the bottom, turn and stitch the right side of the zipper to the top. • To avoid fabric shifting, sew the left side of the zipper in the same direction, touch A3 for right needle position straight stitch. Snap on zipper foot E so the needle is on the right side of the foot. • Begin stitching across the bottom, turn and stitch the left side of the zipper sewing from the bottom to the top. • Remove bartacks and basting stitch. Note: To adjust the position of the stitching line, adjust the needle position. Touch , Touch stitch width to move the needle towards the cen ter position.
57 Utility/Garment Sewing Reinforced Straight Stitch The Reinforced Straight Stitch is stronger than ordinary straight stitch, due to the fact that it is a triple and elastic stitch. The Reinforced Straight Stitch can be used for for all heavy fabrics, for crotch seams that are subject to considerable strain and for topstitching on heavy fabrics. Repair garment seams in stress areas with this stitch. Fabric: Woven heavy Touch: Woven heavy on the fabric screen on the Sewing Advisor and Stitch A8 on the Utility Stitch Menu. Snap on: Presser foot B as recommended. Use: Size 80 needle as recommended. Put the fabric in position under the presser foot. If you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot . Sew: • Step on foot control. The Sen sor Foot lowers automatically. • Stitch 5/8" (15mm) from the bias fold edge. • Touch A7. Touch and increase stitch length to 4.5. You may use presser foot D and sew a row of topstitching along the edge of the fold. • Touch . Note: Increase the stitch length on the Reinforced Straight Stitch for impressive topstitching.
58Utility/Garment Sewing Multiple ZigZag Stitches The multiple zigzag stitches on the Utility Menu A look like a zigzag stitch with straight stitches in the “zig” and the “zag” of the stitch. Stitch A13 – three-step zigzag – is up to 1/4" (6 mm) wide and suitable for light and medium fabrics. Stitch A15 is a 7/16" (9 mm) wide multiple zig- zag, used for loosely woven and heavy fabrics. Use these stitches for over cas ting, butting two edges together to join them, men ding tears and other special fi nishing. Stitch A14 is a serpentine stitch used for men- ding and darning stretch fabrics. Touch: Woven-Medium in the Sewing Advisor and Menu A – Utility Stitches on the Main Menu. Select: Three-step zigzag stitch A13. Your De- sig ner I will automatically make the stan dard settings. The Color Touch Screen will show you all in for ma tion you need to get the best result. Snap on: Presser foot J or A as recommended. Use: Size 80 needle as recommended. Put the fabric in position under the presser foot. If you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot . Sew: • Step on foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers automatically. • Sew to overcast the edge of fabric. • Touch . Stitch A15 is used for loosely woven and heavy fabrics. Stitch A14 – the serpentine stitch – used to sew an overlapped seam and for men ding and dar- ning stretch fabrics.
59 Utility/Garment Sewing Darning and Mending Stitches A33-35 Darning a small hole or a tear before it becomes larger can save a garment. Choose the fi nest th- read in the closest color match possible. Fabric: Woven heavy Touch: Woven heavy on the Sewing Advisor. Poke a small hole to darn. Touch Menu A, Utility Stitches, Touch Darning Stitch A33. Snap on: Presser foot A as recommended. Use: Size 80 needle as recommended. Sew: • Place fabric in position under the presser foot. • Touch Pivot and adjust fabric if necessary. Step on the foot control, The Sen sor foot lo- wers automatically. • Begin sewing above the hole and sew down over it. • Once over the hole, touch . Continue se- wing. The machine will sew back and forth across the hole 12 times to darn the hole clo- sed. • Touch . The stitch will now repeat in suc- ces sion and the machine will stop automati- cally when the stitch is completed. • Touch . Patching and tears Stitch 34 will effi ciently mend a tear. • Touch Stitch 34, which is a mending stitch. Stitch over the tear to mend it. Begin at the top of the tear and sew to the edge of the fa- bric.
60Utility/Garment Sewing Bartacks Secure elastic ends, drapery pleats, belt loops, and pocket corners with the same look as ready-to-wear. Fabric: Woven heavy Touch: Woven heavy, Menu A, Utility Stitches, Touch Stitch A32 / A36. Snap on: Presser Foot B as recommended. Use: Size 80 needle as recommended Sew, A32: • Place fabric in position under presser foot • Touch Pivot and adjust fabric if necessary. Step on the foot control, the Sensor Foot lowers automatically, and stitch. • Touch . The machine will stop automatically when the stitch is completed. The machine will automatically tie-off and cut the threads. Sew, A36: • Place fabric in position under presser foot • Touch Pivot and adjust fabric if necessary. Step on the foot control, the Sen sor Foot lowers automatically, and stich. The machine will sew a straight stitch until you touch . Your Designer I will then sew in reverse until you touch again. Your Designer I will then sew a zig zag, covering the stratight stitches until you touch . • The machine will automatically tie-off and cut the threads. Belt Loops Touch: Woven heavy, Menu A, Utility Stitches, Touch Stitch A13 Three-step zigzag. Snap on: Presser Foot B as recommended. Use: Size 80 needle as recommended. Lower the feed teeth . Sew: • Fold in about 3/8" (10mm) on the short ends. • Place the belt loop on the garment and under the presser foot. • Touch Pivot and adjust fabric if necessary. • Sew a bartack from the outer edge to the cen- ter of the loop, move the fabric and sew a new bartack.