Husqvarna Designer 1 Instruction Manual

							41
Utility/Garment Sewing
Selecting Fabric on Sewing Advisor
• Woven light: for chiffon, organza, batiste, 
silkies, wool challis, etc. 
• Woven medium: for calico, quilting fabrics, 
wool crepe, and broadcloth, etc. 
• Woven heavy: for denim, wool suiting, coa-
ting, can vas, etc.
• Stretch light: for charmeuse nylon, sing le 
knit jerseys, etc. 
• Stretch medium: for double knit, plush, 
swimwear, slinky, etc.
• Stretch heavy: for sweater knits, fl eece, etc.
• Leather: for suede and real leather. 
• Vinyl: for artifi cial leather and suede.
Thread
All purpose sewing thread
Made of synthetic, cotton or cotton covered   
po ly es ter. Used for sewing garments and textiles.
Embroidery thread
Made of various fi bers, rayon, cotton, acrylic. 
This thread creates a smooth glossy appearance 
for embroidery and other decorative stitching.
Note: When using a metallic thread for embroide-
ring, you may need to use a needle with a larger eye 
and lower the embroidery speed.
Embroidery bobbin thread
Fine weight synthetic or cotton thread to reduce 
build-up on the wrong side.
Invisible thread
Single clear synthetic thread. Used for quilting 
and oth er decorative sewing.
As you read the following instructions, sew the 
step by step exercises to learn your Husqvarna 
Viking Designer I sewing machine to the full est.
The Husqvarna Viking Sewing Advisor will save 
you hours of sewing time! It always knows the 
best stitch and settings for your fabric type, fabric 
weight and sewing technique. The following exer-
cises will teach you how to use it. 
						

							42Utility/Garment Sewing
              Seam 
A seam sews two pieces of fabric together with 
a seam allowance that will usually be pressed 
open. In most cases edges of the seam allowan-
ce are fi nished with an overcast stitch  before 
sewing the seam. 
Fabric:  Woven medium, cut in two. 
Touch:  Sewing Advisor on the Color Touch 
Screen.
Enter: Woven medium on the Fabric screen. 
Seam on the Technique screen. (The Sewing 
Advisor selects a straight stitch.)
Snap on: Presser foot A as recommended. 
Use: Size 80 needle as recommended.
Sew:
•  Place fabrics right sides together. Put the fa-
bric in po si tion under the presser foot. Line 
up edge with the 5/8" (15 mm) seam guide.
•  If you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot 
   .
•  Step on foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers 
automatically. Stitch a seam halfway down the 
fabric.
• Touch Needle stop down 
 
.
•  Stop sewing 5/8" (15 mm) from the end. The 
Sen sor Foot raises to the pi vot po si tion with 
the needle in the fabric. Pivot fabric. Step on 
the foot control, the Sensor Foot lowers auto-
matically. Sew along the edge following the 
instructions below.
Reverse
• Touch 
   to lock stitch.
STOP
• Touch 
   to fi nish a stitch and automatically 
sew a few stitches in place to tie off and stop. 
Touch 
   again to cancel it.
FIX
• Touch 
   to lock the stitches with tiny 
straight stitches that sew back and forth slight-
ly.
Thread cutter
•  After having fi nished the seam, touch          
. The top thread is taken to the back of the 
fabric. The thread cutter cuts top and bobbin 
threads. The pres ser foot raises to remove fa-
bric. 
						

							43
Utility/Garment Sewing
Seam 
Seams in stretch fabric must stretch with the fa-
bric. The Lightning Stitch (Stretch Stitch) ma kes 
a stretchy seam that is suitable for sewing to-
gether pieces of light stretch fabric. 
The Lightning Stitch is ideal for topstitching in 
light stretch fabrics. The Sewing Advisor will 
select the best stitch, stitch length and width, 
tension, presser foot pressure and sewing speed 
according to the fabric type and weight. 
Fabric: Stretch light, cut in two.
Touch: Sewing Advisor on the Color Touch 
Screen, Stretch light on the fabric screen, Seam 
on the technique screen. (The Sewing Advisor 
selects a lightning stitch.)
Snap on: Presser foot A as recommended. 
Use: Size 75 stretch needle as recommended. 
Place fabric pieces right sides together. Put the 
fabric in position under the presser foot. If you 
need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot 
  .
Sew: 
•  Step on foot control. The Sen sor Foot lowers 
automatically. 
•  Stitch a seam along the 3/8" (10 mm) seam 
gui de. 
•  After having fi nished the seam, touch 
 
. 
						

							44Utility/Garment Sewing
Overcast
Overcast fabric edges to prevent fraying and to 
help them lay fl at. It is easiest to overcast before 
the garment is sewn together. The J pres ser foot 
is recommended for light and medium weight 
fabric to pre vent puckering along the edge. The 
B pres ser foot for heavy weight fabric. Your 
Sewing Advisor will select the best length and 
width for the fabric weight. 
Fabric: Woven medium
Touch: Woven medium on your Sewing 
Advisor,Overcast on the technique screen. (The 
Sewing Advisor selects a 3-step zigzag stitch.) 
Snap on: Presser foot J as recommended.
Use: Size 80 needle as recommended. 
Place the edge of a single thickness of fabric un-
  der presser foot J with the pin on the foot along 
the edge of the fabric. The 3 step zigzag stitch 
sews over the pin to keep the edge of the fabric 
fl at. 
If you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot 
  .
Sew: 
•  Step on foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers 
automatically.
•  Sew to overcast the edge of the fabric.
• Touch 
  .
Note: It is not necessary to overcast leather or vinyl, 
but the Sewing Advisor gives you the possibility. 
Touch Leather or Vi nyl on your Sewing Advisor, 
Overcast on the technique screen. (The Sewing Ad-
visor selects a zigzag stitch). 
						

							45
Utility/Garment Sewing
Seam/Overcast for ribbing
The Seam/Overcast technique is perfect for stit-
ching ribbed neckbands and cuffs. Cut a mock 
neckline in a Stretch medium fabric, touch 
Stretch medium and Seam/Overcast in the Se-
wing Advisor and sew a piece of ribbing to the 
mock neckline with a 1/4" (6 mm) seam allo-
wance, stretch ribbing as you sew.
Seam and Overcast
The Seam/Overcast stitch sews the seam and 
overcasts the edge all at one time. This saves 
time. There are a number of different Seam/
Overcast stitches on your Designer I. Your Se-
wing Advisor will select the best one for your 
fabric and make all adjustments automatically.
Fabric: Stretch light, cut in two 
Touch: Stretch light on the Sewing Advisor fa-
bric screen. Seam/Overcast on the technique 
screen (A).
Snap on: Presser foot J as recommended.
Use: Size 75 stretch needle as recommended.     
Pla ce fabric pieces right sides together. Put the 
fabric in position under the presser foot with the 
pin on the foot along the edge of the fabric. If 
you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot 
  .
Sew: 
•  Step on foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers 
automatically.
•  Seam/Overcast along one edge
• Touch 
  .
Repeat the Seam/Overcast technique on Stretch 
heavy fabric (B) and on Woven heavy fabric (C). 
Your Sewing Advisor will select the best stitch, 
length, width, tension, pres ser foot pressure and 
sewing speed for each fabric type. Follow other 
recommendations given on the Color Touch 
Screen.
AB
C 
						

							46Utility/Garment Sewing
Baste 
Basting is temporary stitching for fi tting gar-
ments, gathering and marking. Your Sewing Ad-
visor automatically sets a long stitch length and 
reduces the tension so the threads are easy to 
remove or to pull for gathering.
Fabric: Woven medium, cut in two.
Touch: Woven medium on the Sewing Advisor 
fabric screen and Baste on the technique screen.
Snap on: Presser foot A as recommended.
Use: Size 80 needle as recommended.
Place the fabrics right sides together. Put the fa-
bric in position under the presser foot.
Seam allowance: 5/8" (15 mm). If you need to 
adjust fabric, touch Pivot 
  .
Sew:
•  Step on foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers 
automatically. 
•  Stitch along seam line. 
• Touch 
  .
•  Pull bobbin thread to remove stitching. 
						

							47
Utility/Garment Sewing
Blind Hem 
The blind hem creates an invisible hem on gar-
ments. There are two types of blind hem, one is 
recommended for medium to heavy woven fa-
brics, the other for stretch. The blind hem is not 
suggested for light weight fabric, but your Se-
wing Advisor will select the best stitch possible.                                                                                           
Fabric: Stretch medium
Touch: Stretch medium on fabric screen and 
Blind Hem on technique screen in the Sewing 
Advisor.
Snap on: Presser foot D as recommended.
Use: Size 90 stretch needle as recommended.
Fold a 2" (50 mm) hem along one fabric edge 
pla ce pins in place perpendicular to the hem 
with the hem to fi rst entry of the pin about 1/4’’ 
(6mm) from the hem edge.
Hold the fabric wrong side up with the hem to 
the right. 
Fold the hem under to the right side, leaving 
about 1/4" (6 mm) of the hem extending to the 
right. You will sew on this extension. 
Sew:
•  Place the fabric under presser foot D with the 
folded edge against the right toe of the foot. 
• Touch Pivot 
   and adjust fabric if necessary. 
Be sure to remove the pins before you sew 
over them. Do not try to sew over pins. Step 
on the foot control. The Sen sor foot lowers 
automatically.
•  As the large zigzag swings to the left, it should 
barely catch the fold. Generally the Sewing 
Advisor will choose the correct width. Adjust 
the stitch width if necessary. 
  If too much fabric is caught, 
   narrow the 
width. If the zigzag is not catching the fold, 
   widen the width.
• Touch 
  . 
						

							48Utility/Garment Sewing
Hem
The Hem technique on your Sewing Advisor 
will select the visible or topstitch hem that is 
best for your fabric weight and type. For wo-
ven fabric, leather and vinyl, a straight stitch is 
selected. For stretch fabrics, elastic stitches are 
selected.
Fabric: Woven medium.
Touch: Woven medium on the Sewing Advisor 
fabric screen and Hem on the technique screen.
Snap on: Presser foot A as recommended.
Use: Size 80 needle as recommended.
Sew: 
•  Fold and press a 3/8" (10 mm) hem fold and 
press another 3/4" (20mm) hem. Put the fa-
bric in po si tion un der the presser foot.
• Touch Pivot 
   and adjust fabric if necessary. 
Step on the foot control. The Sen sor Foot lo-
wers automatically.
•  Sew along the hem edge.
• Touch 
  .
Repeat this technique on a Stretch medium fa-
bric. The Sewing Advisor selects a fl atlock stitch. 
Follow other recommendations given on the Co-
lor Touch Screen.
Fold a hem to the wrong side and stitch with 
fl at lock stitch on the right side. Trim away ex-
  cess fabric. 
Use this technique for belt loops too.
Tip: When sewing over seams in extra heavy 
fabric or a blue jeans hem, the foot can tip as 
the machine climbs over the seam. The needle 
can hit the tipped foot and break. In this case, 
use the clearance plate to balance the height of 
the hem as you sew.
Place it behind the foot as you ap proach the 
hem and in front of the foot as you sew over 
the hem thickness. Remove the clearance plate 
before sewing in to it. 
						

							49
Utility/Garment Sewing
Buttonhole
The Sewing Advisor will select the best button-
hole and stitch settings for your fabric.  Fabric 
should be interfaced and/or stabilized where 
buttonholes are to be sewn. 
Mark the buttonhole placement on your fabric 
with your Pictogram pen™. 
You can also select your buttonhole from the 
Buttonhole Menu B.
Fabric: Woven medium and stabilizer
Touch: Woven medium on Sewing Advisor fa-
bric screen. Buttonhole on technique screen.
Snap on: Sensor Buttonhole Foot as indicated 
on the Color Touch Screen by the red wheel 
next to the foot. Plug the cord into the socket in 
the left front un der si de corner of the machine. 
Line up the white range on the side of the wheel 
with the white marking line on the foot. 
Use: Size 80 needle as recomended.
Enter the buttonhole size with the 
   or  
 
button. Average buttonhole sizes are: 
5/8" = 16mm, 3/4"=20mm, 1"=25 mm. Maximum 
size: 2" = 50mm. 
Many button packages list the size of the but-
ton. Otherwise use the Buttonhole Ruler which 
is positioned on the baseplate on your Designer 
I. The buttonhole size needed will vary with the 
thickness and style of your button. Always stitch 
a sample buttonhole on scraps fi rst.
Sew: 
•  Fold fabric in two and place stabilizer under-
neath.
•  Place under Sensor Buttonhole Foot. The 
measurement wheel can be raised to a stop, 
which makes it easier to place the fabric un-
  der the presser foot.
•  If you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot 
  .
Use the markings on the left toe of the Sensor 
Buttonhole Foot to position the garment edge. 
The middle mark gives a 5/8" (15 mm) distance 
to fabric edge.Buttonhole Ruler
5/8" (15 mm) 
						

							50Utility/Garment Sewing
•  Step on the foot control, the Sensor Buttonho-
le Foot lowers automatically. A straight stitch 
is sewn away from you indicating the left 
button-hole column, then the satin column 
is sewn toward you. This is repeated for the 
right column. The bartacks are automatic (Il-
lustration 1). Keep the foot control depressed 
until the Thread Cutter cuts the threads and 
the Sensor Button-hole Foot is raised. When 
sewing buttonholes without sa tin stitches or 
when using presser foot C, the sewing steps 
are different (there is no straight stitch step). 
See Illustration 2.
Note: If you are sewing buttonholes on a very 
narrow area, snap on the stan dard foot C and follow 
the step by step buttonhole instructions on page 52.
Button
Sew buttons, snaps, hook and eyes quickly with 
your Designer I.
Fabric: Woven medium
Touch: Woven medium on the Sewing Advisor 
fabric screen. Button on the technique screen.
Use: Size 80 needle and the clearance plate as 
recommended. Snap off pres ser foot. Lower the 
feed teeth as recomended by the Pop-up.
Sew: 
•  Place the thin end of the clearance plate un-
  der button when sewing on light fabrics. Hold  
in place with transparent tape. Use the thick 
end for heavier fabrics.
•  Place under ankle with the holes in the but-
ton lined up with the swing of the needle. 
Touch Pivot 
  . Check the swing by turning 
the hand wheel by hand to be sure the need-
le will not hit the button. 
  Bring the needle down into the hole of the 
button.
•  Zigzag button in place with 6 to 8 stitches.
• Touch 
   to tie off. Touch  
 to repeat next 
button.
•  Raise feed teeth.
Note: The width of the zigzag is set for most 
buttons. If you sew a tiny button or a very large 
coat button, touch ADJUST and 
   or  
 the stitch 
width until the swing of the needle sews in the holes 
of the button or snap.
1. Sewing direction for satin stitch buttonholes 
sewn with the Sensor Buttonhole Foot
2. Sewing direction for buttonholes without sa-
tin stitches or satin stitch buttonholes sewn 
with presser foot C