Global Garden Products Lawn Mower 102 - 122 102 - 122 Hydro Instructions Manual

							102 - 122
5.4a.0- REMOVING THE DASHBOARD AND
FRONT COVER




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WORKSHOP MANUAL
page from 
2006to  ••••
5.4a REMOVING THE DASHBOARD AND
FRONT COVER
Removing the dashboard gives better access to:
–the accelerator
–the ignition block,
–various electrical components.
With some types of engine it could be necessary
to remove the dashboard before the tank can be
dismantled.
Removal of the dashboard and front cover is nec-
essary before the wheel cover can be dismantled.
.
A) Removing the dashboard
Uncouple the spring (1), lift the steering column (2)
as much as necessary to remove the pinion (3)and
then remove the steering wheel 
(4)and steering col-
umn 
(2).
Unscrew nut 
(5)and dismantle the ignition key
block 
(6)without disconnecting the electric cables,
to prevent reassembly errors.
Disconnect the accelerator cable terminal from the
engine and disconnect all remaining electrical con-
nections and the starter cable (where present).
The dashboard can be removed at this point; it is
fixed to the chassis by two upper screws 
(7), cov-
ered by plastic caps, and three lower screws 
(8).
Carry out the above operations in reverse to
reassemble
When refitting the steering column ensure that the
two reference marks ( 
➜- ) stamped on the pin-
ion 
(3)and crown-wheel (9)match up, keeping the
steering wheel spokes aligned correctly.
B) B) Removing the front guard

Remove the dashboard [see point “A”].
Unscrew the parking brake lever knob 
(11) and dis-
mantle the front guard 
(12)fixed to the chassis by
six screws 
(13).
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							102 - 122
5.5.1
REMOVAL OF THE ENGINE





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WORKSHOP MANUAL
page from 
2002to  ••••
5.5 REMOVAL OF THE ENGINE
Since there are different types of drive, the stages
described here refer to those shared or similar in
all types of engine.

Remove the front hood [see 5.1].
➤ For models with lever operated engage-
ment: 
disengage the blades to slacken the belt.
➤ For models with electromagnetic clutch:
loosen and detach the adjuster (1)to slacken the
belt.
It is also advisable to slacken the transmission belt
for easier access to the parts involved; this is done
by ...
➤ In mechanical drive models: engaging the
parking brake. 
➤ In hydrostatic drive models:slackening the
stretcher [see 4.4].  
➤  For models with lever operated engage-
ment: 
Shift the mobile guide pulley (2)back-
wards undo the central screw
(3)and take out the
pulley
(4) from the shaft.
If it is difficult to take out, use the special extrac-
tor # code 60253000/0 inserted into the holes
(4a)of the pulley, but do not completely undo the
screw
(32)so that the extractor puts pressure on
the head of the screw and does not damage the
threaded hole of the shaft.
➤  For models with electromagnetic clutch:
disconnect the connector(5), unhook the check
spring
(6) from the clutch side and undo the cen-
tral screw 
(3a); remove the clutch(7) from the
shaft, together with the transmission control pul-
ley
(8)and spacer(9).
Remove the protection from the exhaust
(10)and
disconnect the cable control from the accelerator
and all the electrical wires.
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							102 - 122
5.5.1
REMOVAL OF THE ENGINE





2 / 2
WORKSHOP MANUAL
page from 
2002to  ••••
Detach the fuel line pipe,taking care not to spill
fuel
.
Find and undo all the screws securing the engine to
the cutting deck, grip the engine firmly and lift it
carefully, bearing in mind that its weight is around
35 - 45 kg.
NOTE
Some engines are held with screws of different
length and in different positions, so it is best to label
them so that no errors are made on reassembly.
On reassembly, fully tighten the screws for the
engine and the pulley to the amounts shown.
➤ For models with electromagnetic clutch:
ensure that the pin(11)is inserted into the clutch
spline
(7)and remember to refit the spring(6).
Remember to fit the clamps back on the fuel pipe
and 
check that it does not leak. 
Reattach all the electrical and earth contacts and
refit the protection covers.
➤  For hydrostatic drive models:reset the
stretcher spring tension should it have been
slackened [see 4.4].  
Reattach the accelerator cable and ... 

Adjust the «MINIMUM» position [see 6.10].

Refit  the front hood [see 5.1].
➤  For models with electromagnetic clutch:
reset the adjuster (1)and check the spring ten-
sion [see 4.1]. 
Tightening torques
3-3aScrew for pulley  .......................... 45 ÷ 50 Nm
–Screws for engine fastening  ............. 25 ÷ 30 Nm
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102 - 122
5.6.0
REMOVAL OF THE REAR AXLE





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WORKSHOP MANUAL
page from 
2000to  ••••
5.6 REMOVAL OF THE REAR AXLE
The rear axle (Transaxle) is made up of a single
maintenance free sealed unit which includes the
transmission unit  ( 
➤ mechanical or ➤ hydrostat-
ic) and the differential and doesn’t need any main-
tenance. 
It only needs to be removed to be replaced or for
an overhaul by the Manufacturer’s Service Centre.

Remove the collector channel [see  5.3].
Put a block
(1) of around 160 mm under the rear
plate and take off the rear wheels.
Through the outlet, grip the two ends of the belt
(2)
and pull it enough to free it from the race of the pul-
ley 
(3), so overcoming the resistance of the stretch-
er on the jockey pulley.
The dismantling procedure differs slightly depend-
ing on the various types of drives used.
➤ In mechanical drive models: 
Disconnect the gear lever rod(4), the brake con-
trol rod 
(5)with spring (6)and then disconnect
the “neutral” signal microswitch cables
(7).
The unit is supported by two brackets
(8)with
their screws 
(9)and (10)and is attached to the
frame by four screws
(11).
Loosen the two screws
(9)to give a minimum of
movement to the brackets 
(8)and undo the two
screws 
(10). Then carefully undo the four lower
screws
(11), holding up the unit so that it does
not fall.
➤ In hydrostatic drive models
Remove the drive control rod(12) by unscrewing
the relative pin nut 
(13)and the brake rod (14)by
unscrewing the nut
(15)under the lever.  
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							102 - 122
5.6.0
REMOVAL OF THE REAR AXLE





2 / 2
WORKSHOP MANUAL
page from 
2000to  ••••
Unscrew the release lever nut (16)to disconnect
the rod 
(17) from the lever (18).
The unit is held up by a support 
(19)and fastened
to it by a screw with a nut 
(20), and it is attached
to the frame by four screws 
(21).
Undo the nut 
(20)and then carefully undo the
four lower screws 
(21), holding up the unit so that
it does not fall.
Repeat the above operations in reverse for
reassembly, taking the following precautions.
➤ In mechanical drive models: be particularly
careful about the two self-tapping screws
(10)
which, if not screwed in correctly, could damage
the internal threads, with the risk of incorrect fix-
ing.
➤ In hydrostatic drive models: refit the blade
engagement cable 
(22)(➤in lever operated
engagement models
) so that it is under the
release lever 
(18)and do not fully tighten nut (16),
so that correct movement of lever
(18) is guaran-
teed.
Reattach all the connections, and then …

Check the brake [see 4.3]
➤ In hydrostatic drive models:if the control rod
has been replaced or completely pulled down:

Adjust the travel and the position of “neutral”
for the pedal [see 4.5].
When assembly is completed …

Refit the collector channel [see  5.3].
Tightening torques
11 - 21Screws for rear axle fastening  25 ÷ 30 Nm
9Screws for brackets  ......................... 25 ÷ 30 Nm
10Self-tapping screws  ....................... 25 ÷ 30 Nm
20Rear axle support nut...................... 25 ÷ 30 Nm2121
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5.7.1
REMOVAL OF THE CUTTING DECK





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WORKSHOP MANUAL
page from 
2002to  ••••
5.7 REMOVAL OF THE CUTTING DECK
Removing the cutting deck facilitates all opera-
tions involving the blade connecting toothed belt
and the overhaul and replacement of the hubs,
bearings or blade shafts..
With some practice and experience it is possible
to do this work with the deck still in position.

Remove the collector channel [see 5.3]
After having put the cutting height lever in position
«1», loosen the engagement cable adjuster
(1)and
take it out.
➤For models with lever operated engage-
ment:
Unhook the blade engagement spring (2).
Shift the mobile guide pulley (3)backwards just
enough to free the belt 
(4)from the motor pulley
(5).
Unscrew the two nuts
(6)of the two front connect-
ing rod pins
(7), without loosening or changing the
position of thenuts
(8)and locknuts (9).
Remove the two split-pins
(10)of the rear pins and
then, having checked that there are no obstruc-
tions, the deck can be removed by extracting it in
such a way that all the pins leave their housings.
On reassembly ensure that the two rear holes of the
corner joints are used for fixing the pins
(7), without
locking the relative nuts
(6).
After having restored all the connections, ...

Refit the collector channel [see  5.3].

The deck must be properly adjusted [see 4.6] if
the nuts and locknuts
(8 – 9)were accidentally
moved.
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102 - 122
6.1.0
REPLACEMENT OF TYRES AND WHEELS





1 / 1
WORKSHOP MANUAL
page from 
2000to  ••••
6.1 REPLACEMENT OF TYRES AND WHEELS
A) Tyres
The tyres used are of the “Tubeless” type and so
every repair of a hole in the tyre must be done by a
tyre specialist according to the methods used for
this type of tyre.
After replacing one or more tyres or the wheels, it is
always necessary to check the pressure and to
check the alignment of the cutting deck  [see  4.6].
WARNING
Replace distorted wheel rims as they could impair
the tyre’s hold.
B) Wheels
The wheels are held by a snap ring(1)which can be
removed with the help of a screwdriver.
NOTE
If a wheel is jammed onto the shaft, use a releasing
spray, directing it around the splining hole.
When reassembling, smear grease over the shaft in
order to make it easier to dismantle the whee; repo-
sition the spacer washer
(2)and the snap ring (1)
with the rounded edge facing inwards.
Tyre pressures
Fron .............................................................1.5 Bar
Rear ........................................................... 1.2 Bar
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102 - 122
6.2.0
REPLACEMENT OF FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS





1 / 1
WORKSHOP MANUAL
page from 
2000to  ••••
6.2 REPLACEMENT OF FRONT WHEEL 
BEARINGS

Dismantle the front wheel [see 6.1].
The front wheel bearings
(1)are force splined into
the front wheel hub.
A 10 – 12 mm diameter round bar
(2)must be used
to extract a bearing, inserted from the opposite side
and struck with a hammer around various points of
the inner circumference of the bearing.
The new bearing must be fitted with the help of a
plastic mallet or of a bronze pad
(3)# code
60800031/0 
that only acts on the bearing’s outer
ring
.
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							102 - 122
6.3.1- DISMANTLING OF THE STEERING 
COMPONENTS




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WORKSHOP MANUAL
page from 
2004to  ••••
6.3 DISMANTLING OF THE STEERING COMPO-
NENTS
Unhook the spring (1)and lift the steering column
(2)just enough to be able to draw out the pinion(3).
A) Dismantling the steering pinion and ring gear
Unscrew the nut(4)and take out the whole ring
gear shaft 
(5)after dismantling the tie-rod(6).
To dismantle the ring gear
(5), undo the two upper
nuts
(7) and(8)and take out the various compo-
nents.
On reassembling be very careful to restore the
exact sequence and to fully tighten the nut
(9)
which holds the stud (10).
First screw down the nut 
(7)without fully tightening
it, so that the cup washer 
(11)can fulfil its purpose,
that of allowing rotation without free play but suffi-
ciently freed from the ring gear. Then fully tighten
the locknut
(8)and insert the split pin (8a).
Reassemble the pinion and ring gear axle, matching
the two reference points ( 
➜- ) punched on them
and ensuring that the notch
(12)on the frame slots
into one of the bush housings. In the case of a new
pinion and ring gear, 2 0.8 mm spacers
(13), code
22672150/0 must be fitted between the ring gear
bush and the frame.
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							102 - 122
6.3.1- DISMANTLING OF THE STEERING 
COMPONENTS




2 / 2
WORKSHOP MANUAL
page from 
2004to  ••••
Put the whole assembly back together in the
reverse order, bearing in mind that it is best to
attach the ring gear before the pinion, and fully
tighten the nut  
(4).
B) Lower bush replacement
Use a universal socket wrench to unscrew the two
screws 
(14)that fix the plate (15)and remove the
spherical lower bush 
(16).
On reassembly ensure that the bush 
(16)is fitted
with the protuberant part upwards.
Refit the plate 
(15)without tightening the screws
(14).
Align the pinion with the crown wheel [see 6.3.A]
and insert the end of the steering wheel column 
(3)
in the hole in the spherical bush (16); fully tighten
the screws 
(14)after having checked the correct
alignment and regular rotation of the steering wheel
column.
When reassembled ...

Check the steering geometry [see 4.8].
Tightening torques
4Nut for ring gear  ............................... 45 ÷ 50 Nm
9Nut for the stud   ............................... 45 ÷ 50 Nm
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