Land Rover Defender 90 110 Workshop Book 4 Rover
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SUSPENSION S. I ... .I 11. Remove the inner seal and bearing cone. 12. If new bearings are to be fitted drift or press out the old cups. 13. Degrease and examine the hub for cracks and damage and renew if necessary. Renew hub if wheel studs are faulty. Assemble 14. If removed, fit the stub axle to the axle casing with a new joint washer and secure with the six nuts and bolts and tighten to the correct torque. 15. Fit new inner and outer bearing cups to the hub, ensuring that they are drifted or pressed squarely into position. 16. Fit the inner bearing cone and pack with one of the recommended hub greases. - Fitting inner oil seal 17. Clean the hub oil seal housing and ensure that the seal locating surface is smooth and the chamfer on the leading edge is also smooth and free from burrs. 18. Examine the new seal and ensure that it is clean, undamaged and that the garter spring is properly located. Even a small scratch on the seal lip could impair its efficiency. 19. Although the new seal is already pre -greased by the manufacturer, apply one of the recommended hub bearing greases to the outside diameter of the seal, before fitting, taking care not to damage the lip. 20. Place the seal, lip side leading, squarely on the hub and using the 76 mm end of seal replacer tool LST 550-5 and drift 550 or 18 G 134 drive the seal into position to the depth determined by the tool. Fitting outer oil seal 21. Fit the new outer bearing cone and pack with one of the recommended hub greases. 22. Carry out instructions 17 to 19 but insert the seal with the lip side trailing. 23. Place the seal, lip side leading, squarely on the hub and using the 72 mm end of seal replacer tool LST 550-5 and drift 550 or 18 G 134, drive the seal into position to the depth determined by the tool. Fitting hub to stub axle 24. Smear the lips of both seals with one of the recommended greases. This is important since a dry seal can be destroyed during the first few revolutions of the hub. 25. Select a new seal track spacer and check that the outer diameter is smooth and free from blemishes 26. Taking care not to damage the seal lips fit the hub assembly to the stub axle. Do not allow the weight of the hub to rest, even temporarily, on the outer seal otherwise damage and distortion could occur. Therefore hold the hut clear of the stub axle until the seal track spacer is fitted. 27. Carefully fit the seal track spacer, seal lip leading. 28. Fit the hub inner nut and using spanner 606435 tighten the adjusting nut whilst slowly revolving the hub until all end-float is removed then back-off the nut approximately half-a-turn. 29. Mount a dial test indicator and bracket on the hub so that the stylus rests in a loaded condition on the nut. Check the end -float which must be 0,013 to 0,010 mm (0.0005 to 0.0004 in). Adjust the nut as necessary to achieve this. 30, Fit the locker and locknut and tighten against the adjusting nut. 31. Rotate the hub several times to settle the bearings then re -check the end-float. 32. Bend one segment of the locker over the adjusting nut and another, diametrically opposite, over the locknut. V/ , 32, 32’ ST1800M Y// 33. Using a new joint washer, fit the hub driving member and secure with the five bolts and tighten evenly to the correct torque. 34. Fit the circlip to the axle shaft ensuring that it is properly seated in the groove. 35. Fit the hub cap. 36. Fit the road wheels and secure with the nuts. Jack -up the vehicle, remove axle stands and lower vehicle to ground. Finally tighten the road wheel nuts to the correct torque. and that there are no burrs on the chamfered leading edge. 11
I64 1 SUSPENSION ST KEY TO HUB COMPONENTS 1. Hub cap. 2. Circlip. 3. Spring washer - hub driving member bolt. 4. Hub driving member. 5. Hub driving member bolts. 6. Brake drum retaining screws. 8. Outer bearing cup. 9. Inner bearing cup. 10. Inner bearing cone. 11. End-float adjustingnut. 12. Inner oil seal. 13. Joint washer. 7. Otter bearing cone. stub axle to axle casing 14. Locknut. 15. Bolt. 16. Axle shaft 17. Locknut. 18. Lock washer. 19. Joint washer. 21. Hub casting. 22. Brake drum. 23. Outer oil seal. 24. Road wheel stud. 25. Stub axle. 20. %a! !El& SFX€!r. 12
SUSPENSION 164 I . OVERHAUL REAR SUSPENSION Remove the lower links . .. .A c. -. . 1. Jack up the rear of the vehicle and lower on to axle stands. 2. Remove the nut and bolt retaining the lower link to the axle bracket. 3. Remove the three nuts and bolts retaining the foward end of the link to the chassis bracket. 4. Withdraw the lower link from the vehicle. 5. Remove the locknut and washer and remove the flexible mounting from the link. Renew the bushes 6. Press out the bush from the rear end of the lower link. 7. Press in a new bush squarely into the link. Fit the lower link 8. Assemble the flexible mounting to the link and secure with the locknut but do not tighten at this stage. 9. Fit the link to the vehicle, securing the front end of the link to the chassis bracket with the three nuts and bolts. 10. Assemble the rear end of the link to the axle bracket and retain with the nut and bolt, but do not tighten at this stage. 11. Lower the vehicle to the ground and allow the suspension to settle. 12. Tighten the nut and bolt at the rear end of the link. 13. Tighten the forward locknut to 176 Nm (130 lbf ft). Remove upper links 22. Using ball joint extractor tool R01006 or a suitable proprietry tool remove the ball joint from the axle bracket. 23. Remove the pivot bracket complete with the ball joint and if fitted, the lower ball joint of the levelling unit. 24. Remove the two bolts securing the ball joint to the pivot bracket and press the ball joint from the bracket. NOTE: Replacement ball joints are supplied as complete assemblies packed with grease. 25. Using two bolts as a guide to ensure correct alignment press the knurled ball joint into the pivot bracket and secure with the two nuts and bolts. Assemble upper links and ball joints 26. Fit the pivot bracket ball joint and bracket to the axle and secure with the plain washer castle nut and split pin. Tighten the nut to 176 Nm (130 Ibf ft). 27. Fit the levelling unit, if used. 28. Assemble the upper links to the chassis attachment brackets but do not at this stage fully tighten the pivot nut and bolt. 29. Fit the upper link assemblics to the chassis with the six nuts and bolts, (three each side). Note the positions of the bolt heads. Tighten the nuts to 47 Nm (35 lbf ft). 30. Secure the rear ends of the upper links to the pivot bracket and tighten the two nuts and bolts and tighten to 115 Nm (85 Ibf ft). 31. Remove the jack from the chassis, allow thc suspension to settle and tighten upper link pivot bolts. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. Jack up the vehicle under the chassis so that the rear axle is freely suspended. Remove nuts and bolts retaining the upper link bracket to the chassis frame. Remove the two nuts and bolts securing the upper links to the pivot bracket. Withdraw the upper links complete with the chassis attachment brackets from vehicle. Remove the nut and bolt retaining forward end of the link to the chassis bracket and separate the two parts. Press out the bush from the forward end of the Renew anti-roll bar bushes and ball joints 32. Remove the two nuts and bolts securing the anti- roll bar to the axle link. 33. Remove the eight nuts and bolts (four each side) retaining the anti -roll bar to the chassis and remove the bar from the vehicle. 34. Remove the split pin and castle nut and remove the ball joint and link from the axle location. If the ball joint requires replacement the complete link must be renewed. 35. Renew the rubbers and fit the anti -roll bar to the chassis and secure with the eight bolts and nuts tightening to 24 Nm (18 lbf ft). 36. Fit the ball joint and link to the axle location and links 2.d squ.re!y press in new bushes. Renew pivot bracket ball joint tighten the castle nut to 176 Nm (130 lbf ft) and fit a new split pin. -- - 20. Remove the levelling unit -if fitted. 21. Remove the split pin, castle nut and plain washer 37. Fit the anti-roll bar to the ball joint link and fit new bushes in the sequence illustrated and tighten the nuts and bolts, to the correct torque. 13 securing the ball joint to the pivot bracket.
-- I 12 3 1. Salisbury axle casing 2. Anti-roll bar 3. Boge self levelling unit 4. Levelling unit upper ball joint assembly 5. Levelling unit lower ball joint assembly 6. Fulcrum bracket 7. Fulcrum bracket ball joint assembly 8. Suspension top links 9. Top link mounting brackets 10. Top link bushes 11. Lower links f*) ti REAR SUSPENSION A1 12. Lower link flexible bush assembly 13. Lower link bush and bolt assembly 14. Coil spring assembly 15. Bumpstop 16. Shock absorber 17. Shock absorber top bush assembly 18. Shock absorber lower bush assembly 19. Anti-roll bar bush and strap assembly 20. Anti -roll bar ball joint and link assembly 21. Heavy duty Rover axle casing 18
SUSPENSION A Boge Hydromat levelling unit is located in the centre of the rear axle. When the vehicle is unladen the levelling unit has little effect. The unit is self-energising and hence the vehicle has to be driven before the unit becomes effective, the time taken for this to happen being dependant upon the vehicle load, the speed at which it is driven and the roughness of the terrain being crossed. If the vehicle is overloaded the unit will fail to level fully and more frequent bump stop contact will be noticed. Should the vehicle be left for a lengthy period e.g. overnight, in a laden condition, it may settle. This is due to normal internal fluid movement in the unit and is not detrimental to the unit performance. Before carrying out the checks below, verify that the vehicle is being operated within the specified maximum loading capabilities. If the levelling unit is then believed to be at fault, the procedure below should be followed. Whilst slight oil seepage IS permissible, the unit should be renewed if there is an excessive oil leak. 1. Remove excessive mud deposits from underneath the vehicle and any heavy items from inside the vehicle that are not part of the original equipment. 2. Measure the clearance between the rear axle bump pad and the bump stop rubber at the front outer corner on both sides of the vehicle, dimension A. The average clearance should be in excess of 67 mm (2.8 in). 3. If thc bump stop clearance is less than the above figure remove the rear springs and check the free length against the following data in the chart. 4. Renew any spnng where the free length is more than 20 mm (0.787 in) shorter than the figures in the chart. 5. Having refitted or renewed any springs repeat the clearance check as described above. If the average bump clearance is still less than 67 mm (2.8 in) renew the levelling unit. . ., ,. . L 64 r-- Steering Side 1 R.H. Part Rate Number Free length Colour Number Nm (Ibhn) ofcoils (mm) Code t--- PASSENGER 1 R.H. One Green and onc White stripe ._ .- NRC 7000 31.5 (180) 6 400 6. Load weights to the value of 650 kg (1143 Ibs) evenly over the rear load area of the vehicle and leave it to settle undisturbed for minimum period of thirty minutes. 7. With the driving seat occupied or with an approximate equivalent weight of 75 kg (165 Ibs) check the bump stop clearance and note the measurPment. 8. Drive the vehicle on a test route approximately 5 km (3 miles) in length over undulating roads or graded tracks. At the completion of the drive bring the vehicle to rest by light brake application so as not to disturb the vehicle loading. 9. Without disturbing the vehicle load and with thc driving seat occupied, check the bump stop clearance and note the reading, which must be in excess of 45 mm (average). 10. Subtract the reading obtained under Instruction 7 from that obtained under Instruction 9. If the change in clearance is in excess of 10 mm (0.394 in) the levelling unit is functioning correctly. 11. If the figures obtained in instructions 9 and 10 do not exceed 45 mm and 10 mm (1.77 and 0.39 in) respectively unload the vehicle and renew the levelling unit. PASSENGER One Green White stripe NRC 7000 31.5 (180) 6 400 and onc Two Blue stripes DRIVER I NRC 6388 31.5 (180) I 6 I 412 1 Two Blue stripes DRIVER I NRC6388 131.5 (180) 1 6 1 412 1 15
1641 SUSPENSION REMOVE LEVELLING UNIT - where fitted WARNING: The levelling unit contains pressurised gas and must not be dismantled nor the casing screws removed. Repair is by replacement of complete unit only. 1. Raise and support the vehicle under the chassis and use a jack to support the weight of the axle. 2. Disconnect the upper links at the pivot bracket. 3. Ease up the levclling unit lower gaiter and unscrew the lower ball joint at the push rod using thin jawed spanners. 4. Release the webbing strap from the chassis. 5. Remove the four nuts securing the top bracket to the chassis and withdraw the levelling unit complete with bracket. Renew levelling unit ball joints The-ball joints for the levelling unit may be dismantled for clcaning and cxamination. 6. Unscrew the lower ball joint from thc pivot 7. Unscrew thc ball joint from the top bracket. 8. Reassemble the ball joints, packing with Dextagrease G.P. or equivalent or if necessary renew the joints if worn. 9. Check the condition of the gaitcrs and renew if necessary. 1 bracket. Fit levelling unit 10. Ensure the ball pin threads are clean and smear Loctite grade CVX on the ball pin threads. 11. Fit the upper ball joint to the levelling unit and secure the gaiter. 12. Fit the top bracket complete with levelling unit to the chassis and sccure with the four nuts and tighten to 47 Nm (35 Ibf ft). 13. Fit the levelling unit to the lower ball joint and secure the gaiter. 14. Attach the webbing strap to the chassis cross member. 15. Fit the upper links to the pivot bracket and retain with the two bolts and nuts but do not tighten at this stage. 16. Remove the jack in support of the axle and the support from under the chassis. 17. Allow the suspension to settle and then tighten the two bolts and nuts retaining the upper links to the pivot bracket to thc correct torque. SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS Remove rear springs 1. Slacken the rLAr road wheel nuts and raise the rear of the vehick and lower the chassis on the axle stands or similar supports and remove the road wheels. 16 2. Support the weight of the axle with a jack. 3. Disconnect the shock absorbers at the lower end. 4. Remove the spring retainer plate. 5. Lower the axle sufficiently to withdraw the spring, but take care not to stretch the flexible brake hose by lowering the axle too far. 6. Remove the spring pan. Renew rear springs 7. Fit the spring pan and retainer plate. 8. Fit the spring into the chassis top location and using 9. Secure the shock absorbers with the rubbers 10. Remove the axle support, fit the road wheels and 11. Finally tighten the road wheel nuts. a turning motion fit the spring to the axle pan. correctly located. lower the vehicle to ground. - Remove shock absorbers ,p- ..h 12. Slacken the road wheel nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it under the axle and remove the road wheels. 13. Remove the shock absorber upper and lower retaining nuts and rubbers. 14. Remove the shock absorber from the top locating shaft and withdraw it from the vehicle. --. h Test shock absorbers 15. Hold the shock absorber vertically in a vice, being careful not to damage the threads. 16. The shock absorber employs differential damping having greater resistance on the extension stroke. Check operation by extending and compressing the shock absorber. Resistance should be uniform throughout the length of each stroke. If resistance is erratic or weak, renew the shock absorber. When checking resistance a new shock absorber may be used for comparison. To ensure that the new shock absorber is primed, fully extend and compress the unit several times before testing begins. Fit shock absorbers 17. Fit the shock absorbers using new rubbers and fit 18. Fit the road wheels, lower the vehicle and finally the lower rubbers and caps in the order illustrated. tighten the road wheel nuts.
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BRAKING SYSTEM . . ... ,....... ... .. . ... ..>:. \., .. ., ._ : ?Y!:. .:. BRAKES DESCRIPTION The mechanical components of the Land Rover 90 and 110 braking system consist of single cylinder Girling drum brakes at the rear and Lockheed, four piston caliper disc brakes at the front. The cable controlled handbrake is a mechanically operated single drum mounted on the output shaft of the transfer box and is completely independent of the main braking system. Adjustment of all drum brakes is by a snail cam turned by a square peg on the back-plates. The basic hydraulic system involves two separate and independent primary and secondary circuits which permit a degree of braking should a fault occur in one of the circuits. The primary circuit operates the rear brakes and the secondary circuit controls the front brake calipers. The tandem master cylinder, which is assisted by a type 50 direct acting servo, is fed by a divided fluid reservoir. The rear section contains fluid for the primary cicuit and the front portion supplies fluid for the secondary circuit. Land Rover 90 models have a brake fluid loss switch fitted to the master cylinder filler cap. The switch is wired to a warning lamp bulb on the drivers control panel and the bulb will illuminated momentarily when the starter motor is actuated, indicating that the brake warning circuit is functioning correctly. A hydraulic failure in the primary or secondary circuits will result in fluid loss and cause the warning bulb to illuminate, in such an event, the driver must stop the vehicle immediately and investigate the cause. In some territories, alternative and additional switches and controls may be fitted (as described in the following for 110 models) to meet legal legislation. Land Rover 110 models have a Pressure Differential Warning Actuator Valve (P.D.W.A. Valve) or in some cases a combined P.D.W.A. Valve and a Pressure Conscious Reducing Valve (P.C.R. Valve) situated between the master cylinder and the front and rear brakes. The valves are bolted to the bulkhead within the engine compartment. The type of valve fitted is dependent upon the nature of the vehicle and the braking classification regulations prevailing in the territory where the ehicle is to operate. Both types of valve incorporate an electrical switch wired to a warning bulb on the vehicle control panel. The bulb will illuminate momentarily when the starter motor is actuated indicating that the brake warning circuit is functioning correctly. A fault in either the primary or secondary circuits is evident if the warning bulb illuminates upon application of the foot brake while the engine is running. Should a pressure failure occur in the front brake circuit (secondary) the piston in the P.D.W.A. valve will move in the diretion of the failed circuit causing the switch to operate and the warning bulb to illuminate. At the same time full fluid prcssure in the - . primary circuit to the rear brakes will continue. The P.D.W.A. will function in a similar manner should a failure occur in the primary, rear brake circuit. A Girling type 80 vacuum servo is fitted when a combination valve is used. The P.C.R. valve allows fluid to the rear brakes until a predetermined pressure is reached when the valve closes. the valve, from this point on, will only permit a proportion of any increase in fluid pressure to reach the rear brakes to prevent premature locking of the rear wheels. Should a failure occur in the front brake secondary circuit the design of the valve will ensure that the fluid to the rear brakes will by-pass the valve and allow full circuit pressure to the rear wheel cylinder. To satisfy the demand of other regulations certain vehicles are equipped with a deceleration actuated anti -lock valve fitted in the rear brake (primary) line instead of a P.C.R. valve. Then this valve is used a Girling type 80 vacuum servo is fitted. The valve is situated on the inner face of the chassis right -hand side member at an angle of 20 to the horizontal so that the angle of inclination is towards the front of the vehicle. Under normal braking conditions the valve remains passive. When fierce or emergency braking is necessary the valve operates at a pre -determined deceleration figure and reduces the rate of increase in the hydraulic pressure to the wheel cylinders. A. Primary circuit. B. Secondary circuit. C. P.D.W.A. or combination valve. 1
170 I BRAKING SYSTEM 3. Removing friction pads - early type Remove the retaining pins and anti -rattle springs and withdraw the pads. If the same pads are to be refitted, identify them for assembly to their original iocations. 1 2 A B Removing friction pads - latest type Remove the four spring clips and remove the retaining pins and anti -rattle springs and withdraw the pads. If the same pads are to be refitted, identify them for assembly to their original locations. 4, Remove the two bolts and withdraw the caliper from the vehicle. 3 4 6 ,- continued ST532M A. Combination valve. B. P.D.W.A. valve. C. G. valve. 1. Inlet from master cylinder to secondary circuit. 2. Inlet from master cylinder to primary circuit. 3. Outlet to front calipers via T junction. 4. Outlet to rcar brakes via T junction. 5. Inlet port. 6. Outlet port. 7. Angle of inclination (20°C). REMOVE AND OVERHAUL FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS Special tool: 186672 -Piston clamp NOTE: The following procedure is applicable to Land Rover 90 and 110 models. A 110 caliper is illustrated and varies mainly in size and external pipe connections from the 90 version. REMOVE CALIPER 1. Slacken the front wheel retaining nuts, jack-up the vehicle and lower onto axle stands and remove the wheels. 2. Expose the brake flexible hose by moving the nn;I~rl m,ntn,-t;.ra ,-nsraAnn qnA rlomn thn hnco LULb y1UkbbLnb bUbLII~ Ull -.unnmy %L.b .IUI. Disconnect the hose from the caliper. NOTE: The first illustration shows the early type of friction pad retaining pins and anti-rattle springs. The second illustration shows the latest anti -rattle springs and method of retaining the pads, using parallel pins and retaining clips, or split pins. 2 /. -% E- L