Brother Super Ace 3 Manual
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59 3 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached. *Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less. Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations. Stretch stitching aAttach zigzag foot “J”. bSelect stitch . cSew the fabric without stretching it. Elastic attaching When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used. aPin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the fabric. Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric. aElastic tape bPin b Attach zigzag foot “J”. cSelect a stitch. Stitch NamePatternPresser Foot Pattern No.Application Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Twin NeedleWalking FootReverse (Rev. )/ Reinforcement (Rfc. ) StitchingAuto Manual Auto Manual Stretch stitchJ03Sewing stretch fabrics and decora- tive stitching1.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8)2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16)Yes ( J )No Rfc. 3-point zigzag stitchJ05Overcasting on medium weight or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc.5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4)1.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16)* Yes ( J )No Rfc. Elastic-attaching stitchJ 21 Attaching elastic to stretch fabrics4.0 (3/16) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)1.0 (1/16) 0.2-4.0 (1/64-3/16)* Yes ( J )No Rfc. ●Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. CAUTION 1 2
60 UTILITY STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— dSew the elastic tape to the fabric while stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric. While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand. ●When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend or break. CAUTION
61 3 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below. *Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less. Stitch NamePatternPresser Foot Pattern No.Application Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Twin NeedleWalking FootReverse (Rev. )/ Reinforcement (Rfc. ) StitchingAuto Manual Auto Manual Zigzag stitchJ 04 Overcasting and attaching appliqués3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16)** Yes ( J )* YesRev. Zigzag stitch (for quilting)J46Appliqué quilting, freemotion quilt- ing, satin stitching3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16)No Yes Rfc. Appliqué stitchJ 12 Appliqué stitching3.5 (1/8) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4)2.5 (3/32) 1.6–4.0 (1/16–3/16)** Yes ( J )No Rfc. Appliqué stitch (for quilting)J 47 Attaching appliqués and binding 1.5 (1/16) 0.5–3.5 (1/32–1/8)1.8 (1/16) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16)No No Rfc. J 48 Attaching appliqués and binding 1.5 (1/16) 0.5–3.5 (1/32–1/8)1.8 (1/16) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16)No No Rfc. Piecing straight stitchJ43Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5mm from the right edge of the presser foot)5.5 (7/32) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)2.0 (1/16) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16)No Yes Rfc. J44Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5mm from the left edge of the presser foot)1.5 (1/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)2.0 (1/16) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16)No Yes Rfc. Joining stitchJ15Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)1.2 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16)** Yes ( J )No Rfc. J16Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sewing overcasting on both pieces of fabrics, such as with tricot 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4)2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16)** Yes ( J )No Rfc. J17Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)1.2 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16)** Yes ( J )No Rfc. Hand-look quiltingJ45Straight stitch quilting that looks hand-sewn0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16)No No Rfc. Quilting stipplingJ49Quilting background stitching (stip- pling)7.0 (1/4) 1.0–7.0 (1/16–1/4)1.6 (1/16) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16)No No Rfc. ●Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. CAUTION
62 UTILITY STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Appliqués You can create an appliqué by cutting a different piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a decoration. aBaste the cut design to the fabric. bAttach zigzag foot “J”. cSelect stitch . dSew along the edge of the fabric with the needle dropping off the edge at the right. aAppliqué fabric bNeedle drop pointe Remove the basting, if necessary. Memo ●Make reinforcing straight stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching. Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching aFold the edge of the top piece of fabric and place it over the lower piece. bSew the two pieces of fabric together so the pattern spans both pieces. Piecing Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called “piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from either the right side or the left side of the presser foot. aBaste or pin along the seam allowance of the fabric that you wish to piece together. bAttach zigzag foot “J”. cSelect stitch or . ●If glue is used to hold the cut design in place on the fabric, do not apply glue to areas that will be sewn with the machine. If glue is attached to the needle or race, the machine may be damaged. CAUTION ●Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin during sewing, as the needle can break. You may also be injured. CAUTION
63 3 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— d Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric. ■For a seam allowance on the right side Align the right side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch . a6.5 mm (1/4 inch) ■For a seam allowance on the left side Align the left side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch . a6.5 mm (1/4 inch) Memo ●To change the width of the seam allowance (the needle position), adjust the stitch width. For details, refer to “Changing the needle position” (page 47). Quilting Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily be sewn using the optional walking foot and the optional quilting guide. Note ●Only use the walking foot with straight or zigzag stitches. Do not use other patterns. Reverse stitches cannot be sewn with the walking foot. Models equipped with a needle threader ●Thread the needle manually when using the walking foot, or only attach the walking foot after threading the needle using the needle threader. aBaste the fabric to be quilted. bRemove the presser foot and the presser foot holder. For details, refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (page 35). cHook the connecting fork of the walking foot onto the needle clamp screw, lower the presser foot lever, and then use the presser foot holder screw to attach the walking foot to the presser bar. aConnecting fork bNeedle clamp screw cPresser foot holder screw d Select stitch , or . ePlace one hand on each side of the presser foot, and then evenly guide the fabric while sewing. Note ●When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium. 1 1 ●Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to tighten the screw securely. If the screw is loose, the needle may strike the presser foot and cause injury. ●Be sure to turn the handwheel toward the front of the machine to check that the needle does not strike the presser foot. If the needle strikes the presser foot, injury may result. CAUTION
64 UTILITY STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■Using the optional quilting guide Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced. aInsert the stem of the quilting guide into the hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser foot holder. †Walking foot †Presser foot holder bAdjust the stem of the quilting guide so that the guide aligns with the seam that has already been sewn. Free-motion quilting With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be lowered (using the feed dog position lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting. Note Models equipped with a needle threader ●Thread the needle manually when using the quilting foot, or only attach the quilting foot after threading the needle using the needle threader. aRemove the presser foot and the presser foot holder. For details, refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (page 35). bAlign the quilting foot with the lower-left side of the presser bar. The pin on the quilting foot should be positioned over the needle clamp screw. aPin on quilting foot bPresser foot holder screw cNeedle clamp screw
65 3 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— c Hold the quilting foot in place with your right hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder screw using the disc-shaped screwdriver in your left hand. aPresser foot holder screw d Slide the feed dog position lever, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the right as seen from the front of the machine). aFeed dog position lever (as seen from the rear of the machine) XThe feed dogs are lowered. eTurn on the sewing machine, and then select a stitch. fUse both hands to hold the fabric taut, then move the fabric to follow the pattern. Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning and end of sewing. aPattern g After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog position lever to (to the left as seen from the front of the machine) and turn the handwheel to raise the dogs. Normally, the feed dog position lever is positioned at . ●Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the disc-shaped screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break. CAUTION
66 UTILITY STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— REINFORCEMENT STITCHING Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners. *Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less. Triple stretch stitching Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes and inseams. aAttach zigzag foot “J”. bSelect stitch . cStart sewing. For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 39). Bar tack stitching Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to strain, such as pocket corners and openings. As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at pocket corners is described below. aDetermine the desired length of the bar tack. Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot “A” to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).) aPresser foot scale bLength of bar tack c5 mm (3/16 inch) A bar tack with a maximum length of about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) can be sewn. bAttach buttonhole foot “A”. cSelect stitch . Stitch NamePatternPresser Foot Pattern No.Application Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Twin NeedleWalking FootReverse (Rev. )/ Reinforcement (Rfc. ) StitchingAuto Manual Auto Manual Triple stretch stitchJ02Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and decora- tive stitching0.0 (0) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)2.5 (3/32) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16)** Yes ( J )No Rfc. Bar tack stitchA42Reinforcing openings and areas where the seam easily comes loose2.0 (1/16) 1.0-3.0 (1/16-1/8)0.4 (1/64) 0.3-1.0 (1/64-1/16)No No* Auto Rfc. ●Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. CAUTION 1 2 3
67 3 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— d Position the fabric so that the opening of the pocket faces toward you, and then lower the presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening. a2 mm (1/16 inch) Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the bar tack will not be sewn with the correct size. aDo not reduce the gap.e Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible. aButtonhole lever The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. aButtonhole lever bBracket f Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left hand, and then start sewing. XOnce sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops. gRaise the needle and the presser foot lever, remove the fabric, and cut the thread. hRaise the buttonhole lever to its original position. Memo ●If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length. For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 37). 1
68 UTILITY STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— DECORATIVE STITCHING Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine. Stitch NamePatternPresser Foot Pattern No.Application Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Twin NeedleWalking FootReverse (Rev. )/ Reinforcement (Rfc. ) StitchingAuto Manual Auto Manual Fagoting stitchJ19Fagoting, smocking and decorative stitching5.0 (3/16) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)2.5 (3/32) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16)* Yes ( J )No Rfc. J20Fagoting, smocking and decorative stitching5.0 (3/16) 2.5-7.0 (3/32-1/4)2.5 (3/32) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16)* Yes ( J )No Rfc. Joining stitchJ15Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching 4.0 (3/16) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)1.2 (1/16) 0.2-4.0 (1/64-3/16)* Yes ( J )No Rfc. J16Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sewing overcasting on both pieces of fabrics, such as with tricot 5.0 (3/16) 2.5-7.0 (3/32-1/4)2.5 (3/32) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16)* Yes ( J )No Rfc. J17Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching 5.0 (3/16) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)1.2 (1/16) 0.2-4.0 (1/64-3/16)* Yes ( J )No Rfc. Shell tuck stitchJ 13 Sell tuck stitching4.0 (3/16) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)2.5 (3/32) 0.2-4.0 (1/64-3/16)* Yes ( J )No Rfc. Smocking stitchJ18Smocking stitching and decorative stitching5.0 (3/16) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)1.6 (1/16) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16)* Yes ( J )No Rfc. Satin scallop stitchN 14 Scallop stitching5.0 (3/16) 2.5-7.0 (3/32-1/4)0.5 (1/32) 0.1-1.0 (1/64-1/16)* Yes ( J )No Rfc. Decorative stitchJ 22 Decorative stitching4.0 (3/16) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)3.0 (1/8) 2.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16)No No Rfc. J 23 Decorative stitching4.0 (3/16) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)2.5 (3/32) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16)* Yes ( J )No Rfc. J 24 Decorative stitching5.5 (7/32) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)1.6 (1/16) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16)* Yes ( J )No Rfc. N25Decorative stitching and elastic- attaching5.0 (3/16) 1.5-7.0 (1/64-1/4)1.0 (1/16) 0.2-4.0 (1/64-3/16)* Yes ( J )No Rfc. N26Lace sewing, decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc. 3.5 (1/8) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4)2.5 (3/32) 1.6-4.0 (1/16-3/16)No No Rfc. N27Decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc. 6.0 (15/64) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4)3.0 (1/8) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16)No No Rfc. N28Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.5.0 (3/16) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4)3.5 (1/8) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16)No No Rfc. N29Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.5.0 (3/16) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4)4.0 (3/16) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16)No No Rfc. N30Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.5.0 (3/16) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4)2.5 (3/32) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16)No No Rfc. *Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.