Brother Super Ace 3 Manual
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39 2 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Starting to sew aRaise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up. (With models equipped with (needle position button), raise the needle by pressing once or twice.) bRaise the presser foot lever. aPresser foot lever c Place the fabric under the presser foot, pass the thread under the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine. a5 cm (2 inches)d While holding the end of the thread and the fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching. eLower the presser foot lever. aPresser foot lever f On models equipped with a sewing speed controller, slide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to adjust the sewing speed. Refer to “Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the start/stop button)” (page 13). aSewing speed controller g Slowly press down on the foot controller. (With models equipped with (start/stop button), if the foot controller is not connected, press once.) aStart/stop button XThe machine starts sewing. aMarkbNeedle position button or or
40 SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— hTake your foot off the foot controller, or press (start/stop button) once (if the machine was started by pressing (start/stop button)) (for models equipped with the start/stop button). XThe machine stops sewing. iRaise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up. (With models equipped with (needle position button), raise the needle by pressing once or twice.) This procedure is not necessary if the needle stop position has been set to the raised position (page 13). jRaise the presser foot lever. kPull the fabric to the left side of the machine, and then pass the threads upward from below through the thread cutter to cut them. aThread cutter Memo ●When the foot controller is plugged in, start/ stop button cannot be used to start sewing (for models equipped with the start/stop button). ● When sewing is stopped, the needle remains lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be set so that the needle will stay up when sewing is stopped. For details on setting the machine so that the needles stay up when sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the needle stop position” (page 13). ■Sewing reinforcement stitches When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag stitches that are secured with reverse stitching, pressing (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other. aReverse stitching bReinforcement stitching Memo ●Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to “STITCH SETTINGS” (page 79). 1
41 2 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Thread tension The thread tension will affect the quality of your stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change fabric or thread. Memo ●We recommend that you do a test sample on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew. ■Correct tension Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric. ■Upper tension is too tight Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric. Note ●If the bobbin thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper thread may be too tight. In this case, refer to “Lower threading” (page 20) and rethread the bobbin thread. Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tension-control dial to a lower number. Memo ●When you finish sewing, remove the bobbin cover and then make sure that the thread is shown as below. If the thread is not shown as below, the thread is not inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case correctly. Reinsert the thread correctly. For details, refer to page 20, 21. ■Upper tension is too loose Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric. Note ●If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper thread may be too loose. In this case, refer to “Upper threading” (page 23) and rethread the upper thread. Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tension-control dial to a higher number. 1 2 3 4 aWrong side bSurface cUpper thread dLower thread 1 2 3 4 5 aWrong side bSurface cUpper thread dLower thread eLoops appear on surface of fabric 435 1 2 3 45 aWrong side bSurface cUpper thread dLower thread eLoops appear on wrong side of fabric 435
42 SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— USEFUL SEWING TIPS Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project. Trial sewing After you select a stitch, the machine automatically sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved. For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project. Changing the sewing direction aWhen the stitching reaches a corner, stop the sewing machine. Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle was raised, lower the needle either by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or by pressing (needle position button) once (for models equipped with the needle position button). bRaise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric. Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot. cLower the presser foot lever and continue sewing. Sewing curves Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch. Sewing thick fabrics ■If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position. ●When using the twin needle, be sure to raise the needle before changing the sewing direction. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered, the needle may bend or break.CAUTION
43 2 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching The fabric may not feed when thick seams are being sewn and the presser foot is not level, as shown below. In this case, use the presser foot locking pin (black button on the left side of zigzag foot “J”) so that the presser foot remains level while sewing, allowing the fabric to be fed smoothly. aSewing direction a Raise the presser foot lever. bAlign the beginning of stitching, and then position the fabric. cWhile holding zigzag foot “J” level, hold the presser foot locking pin (black button on the left side) pressed in, and lower the presser foot lever. aPresser foot locking pin (black button) d Release the presser foot locking pin (black button). XThe presser foot remains level, allowing the fabric to be fed. After the seam is sewn, the presser foot will return to its original angle. Sewing hook-and-loop fastener Note ●Before start sewing, baste together the fabric and the hook-and-loop fastener. Make sure that the needle passes through the hook- and-loop fastener by turning the handwheel and lower the needle into the hook-and-loop fastener before sewing. And then, sew the edge of the hook- and-loop fastener at a slow speed. If the needle does not pass through the hook-and- loop fastener, replace the needle with the needle for thick fabrics ( page 29). aEdge of the hook-and-loop fastener ●If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break. ●Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop fastener which is for sewing. If the glue is attached to the needle or the bobbin hook race, it may cause malfunction. ●If the hook-and-loop fastener is sewn with the thin needle (65/9-75/11), the needle may bend or break. CAUTION CAUTION
44 SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing thin fabrics When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper. aStabilizer material or paper Sewing stretch fabrics First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric. aBasting Stitching cylindrical pieces Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs, or hard-to-reach areas. aSlide the flat bed attachment to the left to release it. aFlat bed attachment XWith the flat bed attachment removed, free-arm sewing is possible. When sewing cylindrical pieces, follow the next step. Note ●When you are finished with free-arm sewing, install the flat bed attachment back in its original position. bSlide the part that you wish to sew onto the arm, and then sew from the top.
45 3 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— 3UTILITY STITCHES OVERCASTING STITCHES You can use the overcasting stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. They are also useful for sewing stretch materials. *Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less. Using zigzag foot aAttach zigzag foot “J”. bSelect a stitch. For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 37). cSew with the edge of the fabric. aNeedle drop point Stitch NamePatternPresser Foot Pattern No.Application Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Twin NeedleWalking FootReverse (Rev. )/ Reinforcement (Rfc. ) StitchingAuto Manual Auto Manual Zigzag stitchJ 04 Overcasting and attaching appliqués3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16)** Yes ( J )* YesRev. 3-point zigzag stitchJ05Overcasting on medium weight or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc.5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4)1.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16)** Yes ( J )No Rfc. Overcasting stitchG06Overcasting on thin or medium weight fabrics3.5 (1/8) 2.5–5.0 (3/32–3/16)2.0 (1/16) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16)No No Rfc. G 07 Overcasting on thick fabrics5.0 (3/16) 2.5–5.0 (3/32–3/16)2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16)No No Rfc. J 08 Overcasting on stretch fabrics5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)2.5 (3/32) 0.5–4.0 (1/32–3/16)** Yes ( J )No Rfc. J09Overcasting on thick or stretch fab- rics5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)2.5 (3/32) 0.5–4.0 (1/32–3/16)** Yes ( J )No Rfc. ●Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. CAUTION
46 UTILITY STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Using overcasting foot aAttach overcasting foot “G”. bSelect stitch or . For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 37). cPosition the fabric with the edge of the fabric against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever. aGuide d Slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. eSew with the edge of the fabric against the presser foot guide. aNeedle drop point ●After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. aCheck that the needle does not touch the presser foot. 1 CAUTION
47 3 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— BASIC STITCHING Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching. *Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less. Basic stitching aBaste or pin together the fabric pieces. bAttach zigzag foot “J”. cSelect a stitch. For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 37). dLower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the stitching. eStart sewing. For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 39). For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches, refer to “Sewing reinforcement stitches” (page 40). fWhen sewing is finished, cut the thread. For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 39). ■Changing the needle position With the straight stitch (left needle position) and the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be adjusted. Pressing the “+” side of the stitch width adjustment key moves the needle to the right; pressing the “–” side of the stitch width adjustment key moves the needle to the left. aStitch width bStitch width adjustment key cLeft needle position dRight needle position Stitch NamePatternPresser Foot Pattern No.Application Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Twin NeedleWalking FootReverse (Rev. )/ Reinforcement (Rfc. ) StitchingAuto Manual Auto Manual Straight LeftJ00Basic stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16)** Yes ( J )* YesRev. CenterJ01Attaching zippers, basic stitching, and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16)** Yes ( J )* YesRev. Triple stretch stitchJ02Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and decora- tive stitching 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)2.5 (3/32) 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16)** Yes ( J )No Rfc. ●Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. CAUTION
48 UTILITY STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— BLIND HEM STITCHING You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showing. Memo ●When selecting stitch or . Stitch numbers “0”, “-1”, “-2” or “-3” may be displayed on the LCD by pressing “-” side of the stitch width adjustment key, then the needle drop point will be changed to the left. Stitch numbers “0”, “1”, “2” or “3” may be displayed on the LCD by pressing “+” side of the stitch width adjustment key, then the needle drop point will be changed to the right. ●When the size of cylindrical pieces is too small to slide onto the arm or the length is too short, the fabric will not feed and desired results may not be achieved. aReverse the skirt or pants. aWrong side of fabric bRight side of fabric cEdge of fabric dBottom sideb Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the hem, and press. Stitch NamePatternPresser Foot Pattern No.Application Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Twin NeedleWalking FootReverse (Rev. )/ Reinforcement (Rfc. ) StitchingAuto Manual Auto Manual Blind hem stitchR10Blind hem stitching on medium weight fabrics0 (0) -3← →32.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8)No No Rfc. R11Blind hem stitching on stretch fab- rics0 (0) -3← →32.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8)No No Rfc. ●Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. CAUTION 2 1 3 4 aWrong side of fabric bRight side of Fabric cEdge of fabric dDesired edge of hem 12 12 13 34 2