Singer 274 Manual

							21 
27 & 28 
The Binder - Binding Pass the binding through the scroll of the binder and draw it under the \
needle. Place the edge
of the material to be bound between the scroll of the binder and under t\
he needle, lower the
presser-bar lifter and sew as usual.
Bias binding should be cut 15/16 of an inch wide.
T o Bind with Dress Braid . - Proceed as when using bias binding; but as dress braid and
binding purchased already folded are narrower than bias binding they sho\
uld be inserted in the outer slot of the binder .The edges of dress braid are not turned under as in the case of
bias binding.
T o make French Folds . Proceed as directed for binding, but pass the cloth beneath the
binderfoot, so that the fold is stitched on to the face of the material \
instead of on the edge. 
						

							22 
27 & 28 
The Adjustment and Operation of the Binder
The edge to be bound should be held well within the centre slot of the s\
croll, and with a little
practice this is quite easy. If the material is allowed to slip away fro\
m the scroll when near the
needle, the edge will not be caught in the binding.
V arious materials and conditions require different adjustments of the Bin\
der to bring the stitch -
ing close to the edge.  Awider adjustment of the Binder is necessary when binding curves
than when binding a straight edge.
T o adjust the Binder, loosen its small screw and move the scroll to the r\
ight for a narrower
adjustment, or to the left for a wider adjustment, after which securely \
tighten the screw .To
become perfectly familiar with the adjustment of the Binder, a little pr\
actice is necessary . 
						

							23 
27 & 28  Binding Outside Curves
Practice is required to bind a curved edge
properly .
The edge to be bound must be allowed to
pass freely through the scroll and should not
be crowded in or against it. Guiding should be from the back of the binder and to the left,
allowing unfinished edges to swing naturally into the scroll of the binder .
Never pull the binding as it feeds through the
Binder, as bias material is very easily
stretched and would be too narrow when itreaches the needle. If this occurs the edges
will not be turned.
When binding a curved edge, turn the materi -
al only as fast as the machine sews. It is not
possible to hold the material in the entire
length of the scroll when binding a small
curve.
Do not push the material in too fast, as the
edge will then become puckered, and do not
stretch the material or the curve will not be
the proper shape when finished. If the stitch -
ing does not catch the edge of the binding
the scroll should be adjusted a little to the left. Sample of Outside Curve.
Sample of Inside Curve. 
						

							24 
27 & 28 
Binding Inside Curves
This curve is found on nearly all garments which are finished with a bou\
nd edge, but practice
is necessary on venous materials.
When binding an inside curve, straighten out the edge as it is being fed\
 into the Binder. When doing this, take care not to stretch the edge of the material.
If the material is soft, like batiste or crepe de chine, add a row of ma\
chine stitching close to
the edge of the curve before binding. 
						

							25 
27 & 28 
The Quilter The quilter guide can be used at either the right or left of the needle,\
 and the distance of the
guide from the needle determines the width between the rows of stitching\
. Slide the wire into
its holder on the foot, and set it to the width desired; then lower the \
foot on to the material.
T o Quilt. - For the first row of stitching, let the quilter guide follow the edge \
of the material, a
straight crease, or a line, as preferred. Succeeding rows are made strai\
ght and at a uniform
distance by keeping the previous row steadily under the guide, as shown.\
 
						

							2627 & 28 
The Foot Hemmer -- Hemming Clip off the right hand corner of the material for its edge to curl easi\
ly
.Then, with the hemmer
foot raised, place the material from left to right under the foot and, w\
ith its edge slightly raised, insert the corner into the mouth of the hemmer, easing it along \
until it fills the curl and
reaches the needle. Lower the foot and make the first few stitches slowl\
y. Guide the material with the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, so that the edge lies f\
lat over the top of the
hemmer, and proceed to sew, taking care to keep the hemmer curl just ful\
l. Should the edge begin to run out, move the hand to the left;  should too much material run in, move to the
right. 
						

							27 
27 & 28 
Hemming and Sewing on Lace in One Operation Start the hem and, when it is well started, raise the needle to its high\
est point. Raise the
hemmer to relieve the pressure on the hem, and pass the end of the lace \
through the slot in the side of the attachment and over the hem, as shown.
T ake care that the hem is not displaced in the hemmer, and that the needl\
e goes through
both the lace and hem. Then let down the presser bar and guide the lace \
over the front of the
hemmer, taking care to keep it well into the slot. 
						

							28 
27 & 28  The Foot Hemmer - Felling
The two pieces of cloth should be laid, wrong side out, one over the other, with the
edge of the under piece a little farther to the
right than the upper piece, as shown in the
illustration. Stitch the two pieces together ,
using the front projecting part of the hem -
mer as a guide for keeping the seam
straight. This should be made close, but not
too near to the edge of the upper piece, or
the cloth will give way at the seam when a
strain is put upon it.
Raise the hemmer foot and open the workout flat, wrong side up, so that the edges
will stand up straight. Then push the edges at the beginning of the seam into the mouth
of the hemmer, as far as the needle, and
lower the hemmer foot. While stitching, keep the material perfectly flat, using both
hands, and see that the seam is in line with
the mouth of the hemmer. For the second seam, the stitch should be lengthened
slightly . 
						

							29 
27 & 28 
The Adjustable Hemmer W
ith its slide closed, the attachment will make hems up to one inch wide.\
Loosen the screw at the front and move the slide until the pointer is ag\
ainst the desired width
then tighten the screw. Insert the edge of the material between the slid\
e and the number
gauge, and draw it backward and forward until the hem is formed, stoppin\
g with its end under the needle. Lower the presser bar and sew, taking care in guiding the wo\
rk to keep the hem -
mer full. Felling can also be done by following the felling instructions\
. 
						

							3027 & 28 
The Adjustable Hemmer - Wide Hemming T
o make a hem more than one inch wide, loosen the screw, draw the slide t\
o the right, as far
as it will go, and turn it towards you, as in the illustration.
Fold and crease down a hem of the desired width, pass the fold under the\
 extension at the right of the hemmer, then insert the edge of the material into the folde\
r, and proceed to sew .