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Ruger Single Six Instructions Manual

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    							!WARNING - LEAD EXPOSURE
    Discharging firearms in poorly
    ventilated areas, cleaning
    firearms, or handling
    ammunition may result in
    exposure to lead and other
    substances known to the state of
    California to cause birth defects,
    reproductive harm, and other
    serious physical injury. Have
    adequate ventilation at all times.
    Wash hands thoroughly after
    exposure.
    SHOOTING OR CLEANING GUNS
    MAY EXPOSE YOU TO LEAD
    11
    AMMUNITION
    The RUGER®NEW MODEL SINGLE SIX®&BISLEYrevolvers
    chambered for .22 long rifle are intended to be used with any standard make of
    .22 long rifle, long or short ammunition in either regular, high velocity or hyper-
    velocity loading.
    The RUGER
    ®NEW MODEL SINGLE SIX®&BISLEYrevolvers
    chambered for Caliber .32 H&R Magnum cartridges will also chamber the .32
    S&W cartridge and the .32 S&W Long cartridge. The use of other than .32 H&R
    Magnum cartridges, may, in some loadings, result in unsatisfactory accuracy.
    Two cylinders are furnished with some New Model Single Six revolvers. The
    cylinder with flutes is chambered for .22 Long Rifle cartridge. (.22 Short and .22
    Long cartridges can also be fired in the Long Rifle cylinder.) 
    The cylinder chambered for the .22 WMR cartridge (Winchester Magnum
    Rimfire) is not fluted. It is marked “.22 WIN. MAGNUM CAL.”
    WARNING:Fire only .22 WMR cartridges in the MAGNUM cylinder. Do not fire
    .22 Short, Long or Long Rifle cartridges in the MAGNUM cylinder. Such
    cartridges will burst and can cause injury to the shooter and persons nearby.
    AMMUNITION (CARTRIDGES)NOTICE
    WE SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE OR
    INJURY WHATSOEVER OCCURRING IN CONNECTION WITH, OR AS THE
    RESULT OF, THE USE IN RUGER REVOLVERS OF FAULTY, OR
    NONSTANDARD, OR “REMANUFACTURED” OR HANDLOADED (RELOADED)
    AMMUNITION, OR OF CARTRIDGES OTHER THAN THOSE FOR WHICH THE
    FIREARM WAS ORIGINALLY CHAMBERED. 
    						
    							12
    !WARNING – AMMUNITION
    Death, serious injury, and damage
    can result from the use of wrong
    ammunition, bore obstructions,
    powder overloads, or incorrect
    cartridge components. Always
    wear
    shooting glasses and hearing
    protectors.
    IMPROPER AMMUNITION
    DESTROYS GUNS
    !WARNING – HANDLING
    HANDLING
    CARRYING:Unlike “old model” single action revolvers, which should always be
    carried with the hammer down on an empty
    chamber to prevent accidental
    discharges caused by a blow to the hammer*, the Ruger New Model Single Six &
    Bisley may be carried with all chambers loaded. When the hammer and trigger
    are fully forward at the same time, the transfer bar is lowered out of firing
    position and the hammer rests directly on the frame, not on the firing pin.
    * See “Important Safety Note”, p. 8.
    Any time the revolver is loaded, the
    hammer is cocked and the trigger is
    pulled and held to the rear, it will fire.
    Cocking the gun or pulling the trigger
    should only be done when you are ready
    to fire immediately.
    NEVER DROP OR STRIKE ANY
    REVOLVER – COCKED OR UNCOCKED.
    CARRY AND HANDLE THE REVOLVER
    IN SUCH A MANNER THAT THE
    HAMMER WILL NOT BE STRUCK.
    NEVER CARRY ANY
    REVOLVER WITH THE
    HAMMER COCKED.  
    						
    							13
    TO LOAD AND FIRE
    1.Do not load the revolver until you are ready to use it.
    2. Note – The loading gate cannot be opened unless the hammer and trigger are
    fully forward, and the hammer cannot be cocked once the gate is opened.
    3. Open the gate. This permits the cylinder to rotate.
    4. Turn cylinder clockwise, by hand, and insert cartridges in chambers.
    5. Align a chamber with the barrel and close the gate. The revolver is now in its
    normal carrying condition – hammer and trigger fully forward and transfer
    bar lowered out of firing position.
    6. Cocking – To fire the revolver, the hammer must first by manually cocked.
    When cocking the hammer, have a firm hold on the grip with the shooting
    hand, and DO NOT TOUCH THE TRIGGER WHILE COCKING THE HAMMER.
    TOUCH THE TRIGGER ONLY WHEN YOU ARE READY TO FIRE. With the fore
    portion of your thumb firmly on the hammer spur, draw the hammer fully to
    the rear until it stops. Then permit the hammer to move forward (it will only
    move slightly) until the trigger engages in the hammer at full cock.
    7. Firing – Once the hammer has been cocked, a light pressure on the trigger
    will disengage the trigger from the hammer. The hammer will fall forward
    striking the transfer bar and the revolver will fire.
    8. After firing, the hammer will remain down. To fire subsequent shots, fully
    release the trigger and repeat steps 6 & 7 above for each shot.
    CAUTION:The recoil of the .32 H&R Magnum caliber causes
    the muzzle of the gun to flip upward with substantial force. The
    shooter need not be apprehensive, but be prepared. Keep a firm grip
    on the revolver and hold it away from your face when firing.!
    !WARNING – FIRING
    When firing any revolver, be sure all persons are a
    safe distance to the rear of the shooter. When fired,
    all revolvers discharge gas and particles through the
    clearance gap between the cylinder and the rear of
    the barrel. These particles of lead, powder grains or
    lubricant are projected broadly sideways at high
    speed and thus can injure a person who is standing
    too close to the revolver. When firing any revolver,
    always be certain that nothing – including either of
    your hands – is in the path of the hot gas and
    particles which are discharged from the front and
    sides of the cylinder. When shooting, adequate eye
    protection is essential. Shooters and bystanders must
    wear shooting glasses. Hearing protection must also
    be worn. Exposure to shooting noise can damage
    hearing.
    HOT GASES EXIT
    BARREL/CYLINDER GAP  
    						
    							14
    The safe carrying position for New
    Model Single Six and Bisley
    Revolvers is with the hammer
    fully down and the trigger
    forward. In this position the
    hammer does not contact the
    firing pin. See page 10. In older
    (1953-1972) Single Sixes with
    serial numbers below 62-00000,
    the hammer, when in the full
    forward position, does rest against
    the firing pin.
    Accordingly, never car
    ry an “oldmodel” revolver with the hammerfully forward and the cartridge inline with the firing pin because alight blow to the hammer canreadily cause discharge.It is
    always safest to carry the hammer
    down over an empty
    chamber
    regardless of revolvers type. See
    page 27 for details about our free
    safety conversion offer for “old
    model” Ruger Single Sixes.
    DRY-FIRING: Going through the actions of cocking, aiming, and pulling the
    trigger of an unloaded
    gun is known as “Dry Firing.” It can be useful to learn the
    “feel” of your revolver. Be certain the revolver is unloaded and that the gun is
    pointing in a safe direction even when practicing by dry-firing. The Ruger New
    Model revolvers can be dry-fired without damage to the firing pin or other
    components.
    “FANNING”:NEVER fan any revolver. Fanning is an unsafe way to fire a gun and
    it is abusive to the revolver mechanism.
    ALWAYSCARRY
    NEW MODEL SINGLE SIXES
    WITH HAMMER DOWN.
    WARNING – SAFE CARRYING POSITION!
    62-00000 AND
    ONLY
    TO ‘UNCOCK’ (DECOCK) THE REVOLVER
    If your revolver is cocked, and you wish to let the hammer down to its forward
    position (against the frame), proceed as follows: USE EXTREME CARE WHEN
    ATTEMPTING TO DECOCK THE REVOLVER, AS THE THUMB SLIPPING
    DURING THIS PROCESS CAN RESULT IN AN ACCIDENTAL DISCHARGE IF
    THE TRIGGER IS HELD TO THE REAR.
    1.Make cer
    tain that the revolver is pointing in a safe direction (See Rule 2, Page
    35). 
    						
    							15
    a.With the thumb controlling the hammer as shown above, (1) squeeze trigger
    to permit hammer to ‘break free’ (2).
    b.When hammer is free, IMMEDIATELY release trigger (3). Then lower hammer
    slowly to its resting position completely down against frame (4).
    The revolver is now in its normal carrying condition -- hammer and trigger fully
    forward and transfer bar lowered out of firing position.
    4
    3 1
    2
    a. b.
    DECOCKING (UNCOCKING) THE REVOLVER
    2. Make certain both hands are dry and not impeded in any way–gloves,
    bandages, cold, etc.
    3. Grasp the revolver (if right handed) so that the thumb and forefinger of your
    left hand are firmly holding the frame, forward of the trigger guard. Thus,
    your left hand is in full control of the revolver (See Figure a, below).
    4. Place your right thumb firmly on the hammer spur and, with your thumb
    securely in control of the hammer, squeeze the trigger only enough to permit
    the hammer to ‘break free’ of the trigger. At that instant, IMMEDIATELY
    RELEASE THE TRIGGER and then slowly permit the hammer, STILL SECURE
    UNDER YOUR THUMB, to move fully forward to its resting position against
    the frame. NOTE: It is imperative that finger pressure be removed from the
    trigger just as soon as it is free of the hammer. Then, properly, the trigger and
    hammer will move towards their fully forward rest positions together (See
    Figure b, below).
    Practice this important gun handling skill with an unloaded revolver until you
    have developed the proper control and ‘touch’ to decock your revolver safely. The
    key to safe decocking is having the weight of the revolver controlled with one
    hand, while the thumb and forefinger of the ‘shooting hand’ control the hammer
    and trigger. 
    						
    							16
    CAUTION:The hammer must be carefully eased fully forward before
    the hammer is drawn back to the full-cock position for the first
    shot. The hammer should be drawn with a firm positive motion to
    the full-cock position for each shot, thus actuating the working parts for
    complete indexing. Unless this procedure is followed in any single-action
    revolver, the cylinder is apt to be out of index when fired.
    !
    TO UNLOAD OR EJECT CARTRIDGE CASES
    Keep revolver pointed in a safe direction!
    Do not attempt to unload when the hammer is cocked.
    If the hammer is cocked, it must first be decocked. (See “To Uncock The
    Revolver”, p. 14)
    Then: 
    1. Open the gate. This permits the cylinder to rotate.
    2. Turn cylinder clockwise, by hand, to align a chamber with the ejector rod.
    3. Push the ejector rod rearward, by means of the thumb-piece on its forward
    end, so that it slides through the chamber to push out the cartridge or fired
    case. Release spring-loaded ejector rod. Repeat until all chambers are empty.
    4.Check to be certain that all
    cartridges have been removed, then close the gate. 
    TO REMOVE OR REPLACE CYLINDER
    1. Open the gate. This lowers the cylinder latch into the frame.
    2. Press base pin latch (on left side) and withdraw base pin.
    3. Remove cylinder from loading gate side of frame.
    To replace cylinder, simply reverse the above procedure. Holding the gun with
    the barrel pointed away from you and in a safe direction, rotate the cylinder 1/4
    turns in a clockwise direction to ensure that pawl is correctly positioned on
    cylinder ratchet, before replacing base pin. Finally, close the gate.
    WARNING: Never remove, replace or carry a loaded cylinder.
    The cartridges can fire if their rims are struck.
    ! 
    						
    							17
    Do not eject unfired cartridges onto any surface where the cartridge rim might
    strike a solid object and discharge the cartridge.
    CORRECT UNLOADING SEQUENCE
    !WARNING – DISASSEMBLY
    3
    12
    4
    REPEAT
    FOR ALL
    CHAMBERS
    The user of a RUGER®NEW MODEL SINGLE ACTIONrevolver should
    carefully read all disassembly directions and study all the illustrations and the
    Parts List in this manual before attempting to take the gun apart. Know the
    names and location of the parts before removing any of them. Although the
    NEW MODELrevolver mechanism is composed of only a few parts, it is
    essential that the disassembly and reassembly operations be carried out with
    knowledge and care.
    Only a few tools are required: A screwdriver or two to remove the grip panel and
    grip frame screws, and a drift punch to remove the hammer and trigger pivots
    (pins). A small plastic-faced hammer can be useful in drifting the trigger pivot
    out and in.
    3
    12
    4
    REPEAT
    FOR ALL
    CHAMBERS
    Never clean, lubricate,
    disassemble or work on a
    revolver while it is loaded. Never
    install or remove a loaded
    cylinder. A loaded cylinder can
    discharge if dropped or struck.
    Read instructions before
    disassembling gun.
    UNLOAD BEFORE CLEANING 
    						
    							18
    The tip of the screwdriver blade should perfectly fit the grip frame screw slots. A
    tip too large will scrape away metal, while too small a tip will damage the screw
    slots.
    Before taking the gun apart, set up to do it properly. Cover the work surface with
    a soft cloth so that the gun finish (and sights) will not be damaged, and provide a
    tray into which the parts can be put as they are removed from the gun
    .
    DISASSEMBLY
    (Make Sure Revolver is Unloaded!)
    1. Open the gate and rotate the cylinder a few times to be certain the revolver is
    unloaded. Leave the gate open.
    2. Press in fully on the left side of the base pin latch, and while holding it in
    that position, withdraw the base pin. Remove the cylinder and close the gate.
    This is as far as you need to go for routine cleaning.
    DETAILED DISASSEMBLY:
    1. Remove grip panel screw and remove grip panels.
    2. Draw hammer rearward to full cock position. Insert a short length (about 1”)
    of nail or pin into the small hole at the lower end of the hammer strut. (The
    purpose of the pin is to confine the mainspring when the hammer is
    released.)
    3. While maintaining thumb pressure on the hammer spur, squeeze the trigger
    and ease hammer down to full forward position.
    4. Remove the five screws which fasten the grip frame to the cylinder frame.
    5. Pull the grip frame rearward and downward to separate it from the cylinder
    frame. (If the grip frame does not readily separate from the cylinder frame,
    draw the hammer rearward a short distance.) Remove the mainspring
    assembly from the grip frame, but do not r
    emove the small pin that is
    confining the mainspring.The mainspring assembly will later be reassembled
    into the frame as it is.
    Do not ‘lose’ the pawl spring and plunger (located in a hole in the
    rear of the left side of the cylinder frame, just above the grip frame
    screw hole) or the cylinder latch spring and plunger (located in
    the hole above front of the trigger guard bow in the grip frame).
    6. Remove the trigger pivot (pin) as follows: using a screwdriver as shown in
    Figure 1, p. 19, depress the gate detent spring so that the end of the spring
    which rests in one groove of the trigger pivot is free of the groove. Then, use
    a drift and hammer to push the pivot completely out of the frame.
    CAUTION: Press the screwdriver blade tip against the spring
    carefully and be certain the blade does not slip off the spring
    and damage the frame or injure the person holding the gun.
    ! 
    						
    							19
    7. Remove cylinder latch, gate detent spring, and gate.
    8. Remove hammer pivot. Then remove the hammer/pawl assembly and the
    trigger/transfer bar assembly. (Note that the hammer is attached to the pawl
    and the transfer bar is attached to the trigger. See Figure 2).
    The revolver is, at this stage, disassembled as far as it needs to be for major
    cleaning and maintenance. However, if it is necessary to go beyond the above
    steps, the following cautions and suggestions should be useful:
    Ejector/Ejector Housing:Wrap one hand firmly around barrel and housing when
    loosening the screw. Remove screw, then carefully lift housing (which contains
    compressed spring and ejector rod) away from the barrel.
    Base Pin Latch/Nut and Spring: The nut must be held firmly (with jaw-protected
    pliers) while the latch is being unscrewed. Don’t lose the spring. When
    reassembling, be certain the nut and spring are on the left side of the frame. (See
    Parts Drawing).
    Rear Sight:The rear sight can be removed from the frame by drifting out the
    pivot pin (MR05600) and removing the elevation screw (MR05902). Unless it is
    essential, the rear sight should not be removed because there is the risk of losing
    the very small elevation springs. If the sight is removed, when reassembling it is
    helpful to put a very tiny dab of lubricating gun grease in the recesses of the
    sight base. The grease will ‘hold’ the springs upright when the sight is positioned
    on the frame as the rear sight pivot pin is being reinstalled.
    REASSEMBLY
    (Make Sure Revolver is Unloaded!)
    1. Assemble pawl to hammer and transfer bar to trigger as shown in Figure 2.
    Partially insert hammer/pawl assembly in its recess in the frame. Insert
    trigger/transfer bar assembly in its slot in the frame. Then simultaneously
    complete insertion of the two assemblies into the frame.
    (Groove in
     Hammer Pivot)
    (Groove in
     Trigger Pivot)
    Figure 1 Figure 2
    ALTHOUGH THE FOREGOING OUTLINES THE CORRECT
    PROCEDURE, WE WISH TO EMPHASIZE THAT SUCH DETAILED
    DISMANTLING IS SELDOM IF EVER NECESSARY. 
    						
    							2. (Refer to Figure 1). Align hammer in frame and insert hammer pivot with the
    grooved end of the pivot on the gate side of the frame. (The long screw,
    XR01901, when also inserted on the gate side, will intersect the groove and
    lock the pivot in place. See step number 11, p. 21).
    3. Replace cylinder latch and gate detent
    spring as shown in Figure 3. Note that
    the lug on the cylinder latch fits
    between the arms of the gate detent
    spring and that the end of one of the
    arms of the spring is formed at a 90
    degree angle. The projection thus
    formed, is designed to fit through the
    square hole in the bottom of the frame
    and to ride on the cam surface of the
    gate pivot. Note also that this projection
    holds the loading gate back and in
    place.
    4. (Refer to Figure 1, p. 19). Depress the upper arm of the gate detent spring
    with tip of screwdriver blade and install trigger pivot. Pivot should be
    inserted from the gate side of the frame. The non-grooved end of the pivot
    should be inserted first. (It may be necessary to manipulate the trigger, the
    gate detent spring, and the cylinder latch to align them to receive the trigger
    pivot).
    5. Insert the base pin, taking care to be certain the ‘dished out’ section of the
    base pin collar is adjacent to the bottom of the barrel. The base pin must be
    fully inserted and locked in position by the base pin latch. If the base pin is
    not fully inserted and locked, the transfer bar may catch under the firing pin
    when the hammer is being cocked.
    6. (Refer to Figure 4, p. 21). Unhook the ends of the trigger spring (XR03700)
    from the grooved retaining pin on both sides of the grip frame.
    7. Insert cylinder latch spring and plunger in hole in grip frame. (The spring
    goes in first so that the plunger is on top).
    8. Insert pawl spring and plunger (plunger goes in the hole first) in the hole in
    the left side of the cylinder frame just above the left rear grip screw hole.
    9. Install mainspring assembly in the grip frame. Be certain the strut is
    positioned properly. See the Parts Drawing for correct strut positioning.
    10. (Refer to Figure 4, p. 21). Draw hammer to the rear slightly and place the
    grip frame loosely on the cylinder frame. Before pushing the grip frame
    forward to mate with the cylinder frame, be certain that:
    (a) the cylinder latch plunger (XR07700) is positioned so that is will contact
    the bottom of the cylinder latch (rather than either side of the latch),
    (b) the pawl spring is aligned to contact the left ‘ear’ of the grip frame (and
    not be bent as the ear contacts it).
    Figure 3
    20 
    						
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