Land Rover Rover 214 Repair 1689 11 Rover Manual

							1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
11
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Body exterior trim panels - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Bonnet lock - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Boot lid - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Boot lid lock and lock cylinder - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Boot lid/tailgate and fuel filler flap release cables - removal and 
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Bumpers - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Centre console - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Door lock, lock cylinder and handles - removal and refitting  . . . . . . 12
Door window glass and regulator - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . 15
Doors - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Exterior mirror - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Facia - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
General information and precautions  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Hinges, latches and locks - lubrication  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Interior trim - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Major body damage - repair  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Minor body damage - repair  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Quarterlight glass (3-door Hatchback) - removal and refitting  . . . . . 23
Radiator grille - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Seat belt pretensioners - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Seat belts - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Seats - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Sunroof - repair  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Tailgate - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Tailgate lock and lock cylinder - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Tailgate support strut - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Vehicle exterior and interior - maintenance and inspection  . . . . . . . 2
Windscreen, fixed rear quarterlight and tailgate/rear window 
glass   . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
11•1
Contents
Specifications
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Front bumper mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Rear bumper:
Mounting nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16
Mounting bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Bonnet hinge mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Bonnet lock mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Bonnet release lever mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Wheelarch liner screws  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Door glass regulator and top slide bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4
Door glass-to-regulator bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4
Door glass channel nut and bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4
Door hinge bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18
Boot lid hinge bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Boot lid lock retaining bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Boot lid lock cylinder retaining bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Tailgate hinge nuts and bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Front seat slide mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33
Rear seat hinge bolts:
214 models  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
414 models  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Seat belt fastenings:
Mounting bolts - front and rear  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24
Front belt upper mounting nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Inertia reel upper mounting bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Inertia reel lower mounting bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24
Rear side belt guide retaining bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24
Seat belt pretensioners:
Pretensioner to seat frame  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Belt retainer to seat frame  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22
Facia mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321 
						

							1 General information and
precautions
General information
The vehicle bodyshell is made of pressed-
steel sections in three and five-door
Hatchback and four-door Saloon versions.
Most components are welded together but
some use is made of structural adhesives. The
front wings are bolted on.
The bonnet, door, tailgate and some other
vulnerable panels are made of zinc-coated
metal. Once assembled, the entire body is
given an eight-stage pretreatment process
including a high-pressure wash before
painting. The first coat of primer is applied by
cathodic electro-deposition, followed by four
coats of paint and two of lacquer. An anti-
stone chip coating (finished in matt black,
where exposed) is applied to the outer faces
of the sills and the corresponding surfaces of
the front and rear wings. A PVC coating is
applied to the underbody, followed by a
coating of protective wax. All chassis
members, box-sections and sills are injected
with liquid cavity wax.
Several of the body cavities are filled with
‘expand-in-place’ foam. This process features
a two-part liquid silicon foam and hardener
mix which is injected into the cavities after the
body has been painted and wax treated. The
foam improves the noise insulation of the
vehicle and is flame retardant. The foam is
also hydrophobic, that is, it repels water.
Extensive use is made of plastic materials,
mainly on the interior but also in exterior
components such as the wheelarch liners to
improve the body’s resistance to corrosion.
Precautions
Airbag unit
When cleaning the interior of the vehicle, do
not allow the airbag unit in the centre of the
steering wheel to become flooded with
detergents or water and do not clean with
petrol or furniture cream and polishes. Clean
the unit sparingly with a damp cloth and
upholstery cleaner. Failure to observe these
precautions may result in the airbag inflating,
with the subsequent risk of personal injury.
Seat belt pretensioners
When removing or fitting a front seat which
is equipped with a seat belt pretensioner, note
the following:
a) Once activated (after a serious frontal
impact) both pretensioners must be
renewed. Note that the seat belts will still
function as restraints.
b) The red service key must be inserted into
the pretensioner slot whenever the seat or
pretensioner is removed.
c) The red service key must not be removed
from the pretensioner slot until the seat is
securely fitted in the vehicle. Failure toremove the key will prevent the
pretensioner from activating.
d) The pretensioner is a shock sensitive
device and must be handled with extreme
care.
e) Do not fit a pretensioner that has been
dropped.
f) Do not attempt to dismantle a
pretensioner. This will cause the unit to
activate with the likelihood of personal
injury.
g) Never carry a pretensioner by its cable or
tube and always with both hands.
h) Never slide a seat with a pretensioner
fitted across the floor or subject it to
similar rough treatment.
2 Vehicle exterior and interior- 
maintenance and inspection
1
Vehicle exterior
1The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts
of the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underbody, inside all the
wheelarches and the lower part of the engine
compartment.
2The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheelarches and underbody
need washing in the same way to remove any
accumulated mud which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust, particularly in
winter when it is essential that any salt (from
that put down on the roads) is washed off.
Paradoxically enough, the best time to clean
the underbody and wheelarches is in wet
weather when the mud is thoroughly wet and
soft. In very wet weather the underbody is
usually cleaned automatically of large
accumulations; this is therefore a good time
for inspection.
3If the vehicle is very dirty, especially
underneath or in the engine compartment, it is
tempting to use one of the pressure washers
or steam cleaners available on garage
forecourts. Whilst these are quick and
effective, especially for the removal of the
accumulation of oily grime which sometimes
is allowed to become thick in certain areas,
their usage does have some disadvantages. If
caked-on dirt is simply blasted off the
paintwork, its finish soon becomes scratched
and dull and the pressure can allow water to
penetrate door and window seals and the lock
mechanisms. If the full force of such a jet isdirected at the vehicle’s underbody, the wax-
based protective coating can easily be
damaged and water (with whatever cleaning
solvent is used) could be forced into crevices
or components that it would not normally
reach. Similarly, if such equipment is used to
clean the engine compartment, water can be
forced into the components of the fuel and
electrical systems and the protective coating
can be removed that is applied to many small
components during manufacture; this may
therefore actually promote corrosion
(especially inside electrical connectors) and
initiate engine problems or other electrical
faults. Also, if the jet is pointed directly at any
of the oil seals, water can be forced past the
seal lips and into the engine or transmission.
Great care is required, therefore, if such
equipment is used and, in general, regular
cleaning by such methods should be avoided.
4A much better solution in the long term is
just to flush away as much loose dirt as
possible using a hose alone, even if this leaves
the engine compartment looking dirty. If an oil
leak has developed, or if any other
accumulation of oil or grease is to be removed,
there are one or two excellent grease solvents
available, which can be brush applied. The dirt
can then be simply hosed off. Take care to
replace the wax-based protective coat, if this
was affected by the solvent.
5Normal washing of the bodywork is best
carried out using cold or warm water with a
proprietary car shampoo. Tar spots can be
removed by using white spirit, followed by
soapy water to remove all traces of spirit. Try
to keep water out of the bonnet air intakes
and check afterwards that the heater air inlet
box drain tube is clear so that any water has
drained out of the box.
6After washing the paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polishwill
give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen
has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to
avoid damage to the finish.
7Brightwork should be treated in the same
way as paintwork.
8Windscreens and windows can be kept
clear of the smeary film which often appears,
by the use of proprietary glass cleaner. Never
use any form of wax or other body or
chromium polish on glass.
Vehicle interior
9Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum cleaned regularly to keep them free of
grit. If they are badly stained remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting.
11•2 Bodywork and fittings
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							10Where leather upholstery is fitted it should
be cleaned only if necessary, using either a
mild soap (such as saddle soap) or a
proprietary leather cleaner; do not use strong
soaps, detergents or chemical cleaners. If the
leather is very stained, seek the advice of a
Rover dealer. Fabric-trimmed seats and
interior trim panels can be kept clean by
wiping with a damp cloth and a suitable
cleaner. If they do become stained (which can
be more apparent on light coloured
upholstery) use a little liquid detergent and a
soft nail brush to scour the grime out of the
grain of the material. Do not forget to keep the
headlining clean in the same way as the
(fabric) upholstery.
11When using liquid cleaners of any sort
inside the vehicle, do not over-wet the
surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp
could get into the seams and padded interior
causing stains, offensive odours or even rot. If
the inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally
it is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry it
out properly, particularly where carpets are
involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters
inside the vehicle for this purpose.
12Do not allow the airbag unit in the centre
of the steering wheel to become flooded with
detergents or water and do not clean with
petrol or furniture cream and polishes. Clean
the unit sparingly with a damp cloth and
upholstery cleaner. Failure to observe these
precautions may result in the airbag inflating,
with the subsequent risk of personal injury.
3 Minor body damage-
repair
2
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch withbodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface 
of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
“belled-out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.
To complete the repair, see the Section on
filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes
in bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area,
and from an inch or so of the surrounding
“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are notavailable, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide
whether to renew the whole panel (if this is
possible) or to repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think, and it is often quicker and more
satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt
to repair large areas of corrosion.
Remove all fittings from the affected area,
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in
order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.
Wire-brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the surface of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
rust-inhibiting paint, if the back of the rusted
area is accessible, treat this also.
Before filling can take place, it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be found invaluable for imparting a smooth
and well-contoured finish to the surface of the
filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
Bodywork and fittings  11•3
11
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully. 
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique ismastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or
a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter
of either entrusting repair work to a specialist
in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the
cost of the equipment and materials required
for effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then welded
back together, using a hot-air gun to heat up
and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed, and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions,
this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork
filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
which is compatible with the type of plastic
used. At one time, the use of a universal paint
was not possible, owing to the complex range
of plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit whichconsists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally possess.
4 Major body damage- 
repair
5
Note: Where serious damage has occurred to
a  vehicle, any repair is best left to a
professional or a Rover agent with specialist
equipment.
Where serious damage has occurred, or large
areas need renewal due to neglect, it means that
complete new panels will need welding in. This
is best left to professionals. If the damage is due
to impact, it will also be necessary to check
completely the alignment of the bodyshell. This
can only be carried out accurately by a Rover
dealer using special jigs. If the body is left
misaligned, it is primarily dangerous as the
vehicle will not handle properly and secondly,
uneven stresses will be imposed on the steering,
suspension and possibly transmission, causing
abnormal wear or complete failure, particularly
to items such as the tyres.
5 Body exterior trim panels-
renewal
5
1The exterior body and door trim strips are
held in position with a special adhesive tape.
Removal requires the trim to be heated, to
soften the adhesive, and then cut away from
the door surface. Due to the high risk of
damage to the vehicles paintwork during this
operation, it is recommended that work is
entrusted to a Rover dealer.
6 Hinges, latches and locks-
lubrication
Refer to Chapter 1.
7 Bumpers- 
removal and refitting
4
Front
Removal
1Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands.
11•4 Bodywork and fittings
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
If bodystopper is used, it can
be mixed with cellulose
thinners to form a really thin
paste which is ideal for
filling small holes. 
						

							2Remove the headlamps.
3Remove the four screws securing the bumper
to the right-hand wheelarch liner, then undo the
three screws securing the top of the liner to the
body and prise out the screw retaining plugs.
Free the right-hand wheelarch liner from the
front bumper and repeat the complete
procedure for the left-hand wheelarch.
4Undo the three bolts securing the bumper
to the front undercover panel, followed by the
four bolts securing the bumper mounting
plates to the body mounting brackets (see
illustration).
5Release both the left and right-hand bumper
slides from their retaining studs and pull the
bumper fowards, away from the vehicle.
6If necessary, the bumper mounting plates,
trim strip and number plate can be removed
from the bumper and the bumper mountings
can be unbolted from the vehicle. Renew the
components as necessary and/or transfer
them to the new bumper.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reverse of the removal
sequence. Ensure that the bumper mounting
bolts are tighten to the specified torque.
Rear
Removal - 214 models
8Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands.
9From underneath the vehicle, undo the four
screws securing the undercover panel to the
left-hand side of the bumper and remove the
panel.
10Remove the screw securing the left-hand
wheelarch liner to the body, then the screw
securing the right-hand wheelarch liner to the
bumper.
11Undo the bolt, situated next to the towing
hook, securing the underside of the bumper to
the vehicle.
12Open the tailgate and from inside the
luggage compartment, prise out the two
circular grommets to gain access to the
bumper mounting nuts, then undo both nuts
and remove the flat washers.
13Release both the left and right-hand bumper
slides from their mountings and pull the bumperrearwards, away from the vehicle. Note the
sealing washer and two flat washers which are
fitted to each of the bumper mounting studs.
14If a new bumper is being fitted, transfer
the trim strip and mounting stud washers.
Removal - 414 models
15Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands.
16Open the boot lid and, from inside the
luggage compartment, prise out the two
circular grommets to gain access to the
bumper mounting nuts, then undo both nuts
and remove the flat washers (see illustration).
17From underneath the vehicle, slacken and
remove the two nuts and washers securing the
bumper mounting brackets to the body, then
undo the bolt securing the bumper centre
mounting bracket to the body (see illustration).
18Remove the screw securing the left-hand
wheelarch liner to the wheelarch.
19Release both the left and right-hand
bumper slides from their mountings and pull
the bumper rearwards, away from the vehicle.
Note the sealing washers which are fitted to
each of the bumper mounting studs.
20If necessary, the bumper mounting
brackets and trim strip can be removed from
the bumper and either renewed or transferred
to a new bumper.
Refitting
21Refitting is a reverse of the removal
sequence. Ensure that the bumper mountingnuts and bolts are tightened to their specified
torque settings.
8 Radiator grille- 
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1Open the bonnet. Remove the four screws
securing the radiator grille to the headlamp
assemblies and remove the grille from the
vehicle (see illustration).
Refitting
2Fit the grille into position between the
headlamps and tighten its retaining screws
securely.
9 Bonnet- removal, refitting 
and adjustment
2
Removal
1Open the bonnet and have an assistant
support it. Mark the outline of each bonnet
hinge to use as a guide when refitting.
2Disconnect the windscreen washer supply
pipe from the T-piece, then undo the bonnet
retaining bolts and, with the help of an
assistant, carefully lift the bonnet clear. Note
any shims which may be fitted between the
bonnet and hinge (see illustrations). Store
the bonnet out of the way in a safe place.
Bodywork and fittings  11•5
7.17  Rear bumper centre mounting
bracket-to-body bolt - 414 models7.16  Remove rubber grommet to gain
access to bumper mounting nut7.4  Front bumper mounting plate-to-
bracket bolts
9.2a  Disconnect washer supply pipe . . .8.1  Radiator grille left-hand retaining
screws (arrowed)
11
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							Refitting and adjustment
3Offer up the bonnet to the vehicle, position
the shims (where fitted) between the bonnet
and hinges, then loosely fit the retaining bolts
(see illustration). Align the hinges with the
marks made on removal (where applicable)
then tighten the retaining bolts securely and
reconnect the windscreen washer supply
pipe.
4Close the bonnet and check for alignment
with the adjacent panels. If necessary,
slacken the hinge bolts and realign the bonnet
to suit. Once the bonnet is correctly aligned,
tighten the hinge bolts to the specified torque.
5Check that the bonnet height is correct with
that of the front wings and, if necessary,
adjust by altering the height of the bonnet
rubber stops.6Once the bonnet is correctly aligned, check
that the bonnet fastens and releases in a
satisfactory manner. If adjustment is
necessary, remove the plastic lock cover then
slacken the bonnet lock retaining bolts and
adjust the position of the lock to suit. Once
the lock is operating correctly, tighten its
retaining bolts to the specified torque and refit
the lock cover.
10 Bonnet release cable-
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1With the bonnet open, carefully prise off the
plastic lock cover, then disconnect the cable
inner from the lock operating mechanism and
release the cable outer from the lock bracket.
2Undo the three screws securing the right-
hand mudflap to the wheelarch and remove
the mudflap (see illustration).
3Remove the four screws securing the right-
hand wheelarch liner to the front bumper, then
undo the six screws securing the liner to the
wheel arch and prise out the screw retaining
plugs. Manoeuvre the liner out from under the
wheelarch (see illustration).
4Release the cable from its retaining clips in
the engine compartment and under the right-
hand wing. Pull the cable through from under
the right wheelarch (see illustration).
5From inside the vehicle, undo the two boltssecuring the bonnet release lever to the
vehicle then release the cable sealing
grommet from under the facia panel. Pull the
cable through from inside the vehicle and
remove it from the vehicle.
Refitting
6Feed the cable through from inside the
vehicle until the bonnet release lever is in
position. Tighten the lever mounting bolts to
the specified torque and refit the sealing
grommet.
7From under the right-hand wheelarch, feed
the cable through into the engine
compartment then fit the cable to the two
retaining clips situated under the wheelarch.
8Ensure the cable is correctly routed around
the engine compartment and retained by 
all the necessary retaining clips, then connect
the cable to the bonnet lock.
9Refit the right-hand wheelarch liner and
press the six screw retaining plugs back into
position. Refit the retaining screws and the
liner to bumper screws and tighten all screws
to the specified torque. Refit the mudflap.
10Check that the bonnet fastens and
releases in a satisfactory manner. If
adjustment is necessary, slacken the bonnet
lock retaining bolts and adjust the position of
the lock to suit. Once the lock is 
operating correctly, tighten its retaining bolts
to the specified torque and refit the lock
cover.
11 Bonnet lock- removal,
refitting and adjustment
2
Removal
1Remove the radiator grille.
2Carefully prise off the plastic cover from the
lock then mark the outline of the bonnet lock
on the body to use as a guide when refitting
(see illustration).
3Slacken and remove the three bonnet lock
retaining bolts then withdraw the lock and
disconnect the cable inner from the lock
operating mechanism. Release the cable
11•6 Bodywork and fittings
11.2  Remove plastic bonnet lock cover . . .10.4  . . . and release cable retaining clips
from wheelarch10.3  Remove right-hand wheelarch 
liner . . .
10.2  Mudflap retaining screws (arrowed)
9.3  Bonnet retaining bolts9.2b  . . . and remove bonnet
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							outer from the lock bracket and remove the
lock from the vehicle (see illustrations).
Refitting and adjustment
4Refit the release cable to the lock operating
mechanism then align the lock with the marks
made on removal and tighten the lock
retaining bolts to the specified torque.
5Check that the bonnet fastens and releases
in a satisfactory manner. If adjustment is
necessary, slacken the bonnet lock retaining
bolts and adjust the position of the lock to suit.
Once the lock is operating correctly, tighten its
retaining bolts to the specified torque and refit
the lock cover and radiator grille.
12 Door lock, lock cylinder and
handles- removal and refitting
3
Removal
Front door lock
1Remove the front door window glass then
the lock cylinder, see paragraph 15.
2Position the window sealing strip clear of
the lock assembly and, where necessary,
release the wiring retaining clips from the door
panel.3Remove the three screws securing the
interior handle to the door panel and free the
operating rod from the retaining clips (see
illustration).
4Undo the two bolts securing the exterior
handle to the door then remove the three door
lock retaining screws (see illustration).
5Partially withdraw the lock and handle
assembly, then disconnect the interior and
exterior handle connecting rods from the lock
and remove both handles from the door.
Disconnect the inner lock button operating
rod from the lock and remove the button.
6Disconnect the wiring connector from the
central locking motor (where fitted) 
and manoeuvre the lock assembly out of the
door.
Rear door lock
7Remove the rear door window glass.
8Remove the screw securing the inner lock
button pivot to the door panel then release the
button operating rod from its retaining clips.
Disconnect the operating rod from the lock
assembly and remove the inner button
assembly from the door.
9Free the interior handle operating rod from
its retaining clips and disconnect the rod from
the lock.
10Undo the two bolts securing the exterior
handle to the door then remove the three door
lock retaining screws.
11Partially withdraw the lock assembly, then
disconnect the exterior handle operating rod
and remove the exterior handle and lock
assembly from the door.
Front door lock cylinder
12Ensure the window glass is fully up then
remove the door inner trim panel.
13Where necessary, disconnect the wiring
connectors from the central locking (left-hand
door) or electric window (right-hand door)
control unit, then undo the unit retaining
screws and remove it from the door panel.
Disconnect the wiring from the central locking
motor and release any relevant retaining clips
from the door panel.
14Undo the two armrest support bracket
retaining screws then remove the bracket and
carefully peel back the polythene watershield
to gain access to the lock components.
Bodywork and fittings  11•7
12.3  Door lock and handle components
11.3b  . . . then remove lock and
disconnect release cable (arrowed)11.3a  . . . and undo three retaining bolts
(arrowed) . . .
11
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 Front door - items 1 to 10
1 Exterior handle
2 Door lock cylinder
3 Interior lock button
4 Lock assembly
5 Lock striker
6 Interior handle
7 Interior handle
escutcheon
8 Link rod - interior
handle to lock
9 Central locking motor -
passenger door *
10 Central locking switch -
drivers door *
Rear door - items 11 to 19
11 Exterior handle
12 Interior handle
13 Interior handle
escutcheon
14 Interior lock button
15 Link rod - interior
handle to lock
16 Link rod - interior lock
button to lock
17 Lock assembly
18 Lock striker
19 Central locking 
motor *
* Not fitted to all 
models
12.4  Door lock retaining screws 
(Torx type) 
						

							15Disconnect the operating rod from the
lock cylinder retaining clip then remove the
circlip and withdraw the cylinder from the
door (see illustration).
Interior handle
16Remove the inner trim panel.
17Undo the screws securing the interior
handle to the door, then disconnect the
handle from its operating rod and remove it
from the vehicle (see illustration).
Exterior handle
18Remove the inner trim panel and carefully
peel back the polythene watershield to gain
access to the exterior handle retaining bolts.
19Disconnect the operating rod from the
handle, then undo the two retaining bolts and
remove the handle from the door (see
illustration).
Refitting
20Refitting is the reverse of the removal
sequence, noting the following:
a) Ensure that all operating rods are securely
held in position by the retaining clips.
b) Apply grease to all lock and operating rod
pivot points.
c) Before fitting the inner trim panel,
thoroughly check the operation of all the
door lock handles and, where necessary,
the central locking system. Ensure that
the polythene watershield is securely
stuck to the door.
13 Doors- removal, 
refitting and adjustment
3
Note:If there is insufficient slack in the wiring to
be able to withdraw the wiring connectors from
the door panel, then it will be necessary to
remove the inner trim panel and peel back the
polythene watershield to gain further access.
Removal
1Open the door and peel back the wiring
gaiter, or displace the wiring grommet from
the front edge of the door panel. Carefully
withdraw the wiring from the door until the
wiring connector(s) emerge. Disconnect theblock connector(s) and tape the door side of
the connectors to the door frame to prevent
them falling back into the door panel.
2Mark the outline position of each door
hinge to use as a guide when refitting.
3Remove the retaining clip and extract the
pin securing the door check link to the door
pillar.
4Have an assistant support the door and
undo the nuts which secure the upper and
lower hinges to the door, then remove the
door from the vehicle.
5If necessary, the hinges can now be
unbolted and removed from the door pillar,
having first marked the position of the hinge
on the pillar. To gain access to the front door
hinge bolts, it will first be necessary to remove
the wheelarch liner (see illustration).
Refitting and adjustment
6The door is refitted by a reverse of the
removal procedure. Align the hinges with the
marks made on removal and tighten the bolts
to the specified torque.
7On completion, shut the door and check
that the door is correctly aligned with all
surrounding bodywork with an equal
clearance all around. If necessary, adjustment
can be made by slackening the hinge bolts
and moving the door. Once the door is
positioned correctly, tighten the hinge bolts to
the specified torque.
8With the door correctly aligned, check that
it closes easily, is flush with the adjacent
panels and does not rattle when closed. If not,slacken the door striker retaining screws and
reposition the striker. Once door operation is
satisfactory, tighten the striker retaining
screws securely.
14 Door inner trim panel-
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Open the door and carefully prise out and
remove either the mirror inner trim panel (front
door) or window inner trim panel (rear door).
2Undo the door inner handle escutcheon
retaining screw and remove the escutcheon
(see illustrations).
11•8 Bodywork and fittings
14.2b  . . . and remove inner door handle
escutcheon14.2a  Undo retaining screw . . .
13.5  Remove wheel archliner to gain
access to front door hinge retaining bolts
(arrowed)
12.19  Exterior handle retaining bolts
(arrowed)12.17  Interior handle retaining screws
(arrowed)12.15  Front door lock cylinder operating
rod (A) and circlip (B)
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							3On models equipped with manually-
operated windows, remove the window
regulator handle horseshoe clip (see
illustration 14.6)by hooking it out with a
screwdriver or bent piece of wire, then pull the
handle off the spindle and remove the
regulator escutcheon.
4Remove the screws securing the inner trim
panel and armrest to the door. Note that on
certain models, the armrest mounting screws
may be hidden behind trim caps (see
illustrations).
5Release the door trim panel studs by
carefully levering between the panel and door
with a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver. With
all the studs released, lift the panel upwards
and away from the door. Note that on models
with electrically-operated windows, it will be
necessary to disconnect the switch wiring
connector(s) as the panel is removed (see
illustration).
Refitting
6Refitting the trim panel is the reverse of
removal, noting the following (see
illustration):
a) Check the trim panel retaining studs for
breakage and renew as necessary.
b) When refitting the window regulator
handle (where fitted), fit the clip to the
handle first then push the handle onto the
regulator spindle.
15 Door window glass and
regulator- 
removal and refitting
3
Removal
Front door window glass and
regulator
1Remove the front door inner trim panel.
2Undo the four screws securing the 
speaker to the door then withdraw 
the speaker and disconnect its wiring
connectors.
3Undo the two armrest support bracket
retaining screws and remove the bracket from
the door (see illustration).
4On models equipped with electrically-
operated windows, temporarily connect the
window switch wiring connector(s) and
position the glass so that access can be
gained to both glass retaining bolts via the
cutaway in the door panel. If work is being
carried out on the right-hand door, unplug the
wiring connectors from the window 
control unit then undo the control unit
mounting screws and remove the unit from
the door panel (see illustration). Release 
any relevant wiring retaining clips from the
door.
5On models equipped with central locking,disconnect the wiring connectors from the
door lock motor unit and release the wiring
retaining clips from the door panel. If work is
being carried out on the left-hand door,
unplug the wiring connectors from the 
central locking control unit then undo the
control unit mounting screws and remove 
the unit from the door panel (see illus-
tration).
6On models equipped with manually-
operated windows, temporarily refit the
regulator handle and position the glass so 
that its retaining bolts can be accessed
Bodywork and fittings  11•9
14.5  Disconnect wiring connectors as trim
panel is removed - electrically-operated
windows
14.6  Fit horseshoe clip (arrowed) to handle
before refitting handle to regulator
14.4b  Removing front armrest retaining
screw14.4a  Front door trim panel retaining
screws (arrowed)
15.5  Central locking control unit must be
removed when working on left-hand door15.4  Control unit for electrically-operated
windows must be removed when working
on right-hand door15.3  Armrest support bracket is retained
by two screws
11
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							through the cutaway in the door (see
illustration).
7On all models, carefully peel back the
polythene watershield to gain access to the
regulator components (see illustration).
8Slacken and remove the bolt securing the
front glass channel to the door then carefully
disengage the channel from the window
glass.
9Undo the two bolts securing the window
glass to the regulator then lift up the glass and
manoeuvre it out of the door (see
illustration).
10Slacken and remove the six regulator
assembly retaining bolts and manoeuvre the
assembly out through the door panel
cutaway.
Rear door window glass and 
regulator
11Remove the rear door inner trim panel.
12Where necessary, disconnect the wiring
from the central locking motor and free any
relevant wiring clips from the door panel.
13Temporarily refit the regulator handle or
reconnect the switch wiring connector (as
applicable) and position the window glass so
the retaining bolts can be accessed through
the cutaway in the door panel (see
illustration).
14Undo the two arm rest support bracket
retaining screws then remove the bracket
from the door and carefully peel back the
polythene watershield.
11•10 Bodywork and fittings
15.9  Undo window-to-regulator retaining
bolts
15.7  Carefully peel back polythene
watershield to gain access to regulator
components
15.13  Rear door window glass and regulator components
15.6  Front door window glass and regulator components
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/971 Window glass
2 Window glass
mounting
brackets
3 Sealing strip
4 Window glass
front channel
5 Window glass
rear channel
6 Bolt
7 Regulator
handle *
8 Regulator
handle
retaining clip *
9 Regulator
escutcheon *
10 Manual
window
regulator
assembly *
11 Bolt *
12 Electric
window
regulator
assembly *
13 Bolt *
* Not fitted to all
models
1 Window glass
2 Window glass
mounting brackets
3 Sealing strip
4 Window glass front
channel
5 Window glass rear
channel
6 Bolt
7 Nut
8 Spacer
9 Regulator handle *
10 Regulator handle
retaining clip *
11 Regulator
escutcheon *
12 Manual window
regulator assembly *
13 Bolt *
14 Electric window
regulator assembly *
15 Electric window
regulator *
16 Electric window
motor *
17 Bolt *
* Not fitted to all models