Land Rover Rover 214 Repair 1689 10 Rover Manual

							and trailing arm (see illustration). On models
equipped with ABS, undo the bolts securing the
wheel sensor wiring lead bracket to the lower
arm and release the wiring. On all models, undo
the lower suspension strut mounting bolt and
remove the rear lower lateral link.
3On 214 models, from inside the luggage
compartment, prise off the trim cap to gain
access to the rear suspension strut upper
mounting nuts. On 414 models, remove the
relevant luggage compartment side trim panel
to gain access (see illustration).
4Remove the rubber cover and use chalk or
a dab of paint to mark the relative positions of
the suspension strut upper mounting and
body. Undo the two suspension strut upper
mounting nuts and manoeuvre the strut out
from under the wheelarch, noting the seal
fitted between the upper mounting plate and
vehicle body (see illustration).
Refitting
5Prior to refitting, examine the rear lower
lateral link mounting bushes and renew any
which are worn or damaged.6Ensure the rubber seal is in position on the
upper mounting plate then refit the
suspension strut, aligning the marks made on
removal (where necessary). Refit the upper
mounting nuts. Tighten the nuts to the
specified torque setting and refit the rubber
cover and trim cap/panel.7Offer up the lower lateral link and refit the
lower suspension strut mounting bolt followed
by both the lower lateral link pivot bolts.
Tighten the bolts loosely. On models
equipped with ABS, refit the wheel sensor
wiring bracket retaining bolts and tighten
them securely.
Suspension and steering  10•11
13.2  Rear suspension components
13.4  Removing rear suspension strut13.3  Remove luggage compartment side
trim to gain access to strut upper
mounting nuts - 414 models
10
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 1 Self-locking nut
2 Washer
3 Seal
4 Mounting rubber
5 Strut upper mounting nut
6 Upper mounting plate
7 Spacer
8 Mounting rubber
9 Rubber damper
10 Dust seal
11 Dust cover
12 Coil spring
13 Stop plate
14 Rubber stop
15 Strut
16 Strut lower mounting bolt
17 Strut lower mounting bush
18 Rear upper lateral link outer bush
19 Rear upper lateral link
20 Rear upper lateral link inner bush
21 Bolt - rear upper link to body
22 Pivot bolt - rear upper link to trailing
arm
23 Front lateral link
24 Front lateral link bush
25 Trailing arm
26 Trailing arm mounting bush
27 Bolt - trailing arm to body
28 Pivot bolt - front link to trailing arm
29 Pivot bolt - rear lower link to trailing
arm
30 Rear lower lateral link
31 Rear lower lateral link outer bush
32 Rear lower lateral link inner bush
33 Pivot bolt - rear lower link to body
34 Rear hub
35 Washer
36 Rear hub retaining nut
37 Hub cap38 Brake drum
39 Drum retaining screw
40 Backplate assembly
41 Backplate mounting bolt
42 Disc retaining screw
43 Disc shield
44 Disc shield mounting bolt
45 Brake disc
46 Pivot bolt
47 Washer 
						

							8Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel 
nuts to the specified torque.
9With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
rock the vehicle to settle the disturbed
components in position then tighten the lower
lateral link pivot bolts and the lower
suspension strut mounting bolt to the
specified torque.
14 Rear suspension strut-
dismantling, inspection and
reassembly
3
Note:Before attempting to dismantle the rear
suspension strut, a suitable tool to hold the
coil spring in compression must be obtained.
Adjustable coil spring compressors are readily
available and are recommended for this
operation. Any attempt to dismantle the strut
without such a tool is likely to result in damage
or personal injury.
Dismantling
1With the strut removed from the vehicle,
clean away all external dirt then mount it
upright in a vice.
2Fit the spring compressor and compress
the coil spring until all tension is relieved from
the upper mounting plate.
3Slacken the upper mounting retaining nut
whilst retaining the strut piston with an Allen
key.
4Remove the nut and washer followed by the
mounting plate assembly, noting the correct
fitted positions of the mounting rubbers and
spacer, and the upper spring rubber damper.
Remove the coil spring then lift the dust seal
and cover off the damper and slide the
damper stop plate and rubber stop off the
strut piston.
Inspection
5Examine all the rear suspension strut
components, using the information given for
the front suspension strut.
Reassembly
6Reassembly is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the spring ends are
correctly located in the upper and lower seats
and that the upper mounting plate retaining
nut is tightened to the specified torque
setting.
15 Rear suspension lateral links
- removal, inspection and
refitting
5
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate rear
roadwheel.
Front link
2Mark the position of the lateral link body
pivot bolt in relation to the body. This mark
can then be used as a guide on refitting.
3Slacken and remove both the pivot bolts
securing the front lateral link to the body and
trailing arm and remove the link from the
vehicle (see illustration).
Rear upper link
4Slacken and remove the pivot bolt securing
the rear upper lateral link to the trailing arm
assembly (see illustration).
5Undo the two bolts securing the inner
mounting to the vehicle body and remove the
link assembly from the vehicle.
Rear lower link
6Slacken and remove both the pivot bolts
securing the lower rear lateral link to the body
and trailing arm. On models equipped with
ABS, undo the bolts securing the wheel
sensor wiring lead bracket to the lower arm
and release the wiring. On all models, undo
the lower suspension mounting bolt and
remove the rear lower lateral link (see
illustration).
Inspection
7Examine the lateral link for signs of cracking
and check the mounting bushes for signs of
wear or deterioration, renewing as necessary
(see illustration). 
8The bushes are a press fit in the link and
can be pressed out and in using a vice andtwo suitable-sized tubular drifts, such as
sockets (one bearing on the hard outer edge
of the bush and another bearing against the
edge of the lateral link). 
9When renewing the inner bush on the rear
upper lateral link, mark the position of the
bush mounting plate in relation to the lateral
link before removing the worn bush. Fit the
new bush so that the mounting plate is in the
same position in relation to the lateral link.
This avoids placing any undue strain on the
rubber bush when the link is refitted to the
vehicle.
10Examine the pivot bolt shanks for signs of
wear or damage such as scoring and renew
as necessary.
Refitting
11Refitting is the reverse of removal, noting
the following:
a) Refit the pivot bolts and tighten them
loosely.
b) When refitting the front lateral link, align
the inner pivot bolt using the marks made
on dismantling.
c) With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
rock the suspension to settle all disturbed
components in position then tighten all
the disturbed pivot bolts to the specified
torque.
d) On completion, check and, if necessary,
adjust rear wheel alignment.
10•12 Suspension and steering
15.7  Examine lateral link bushes for signs
of wear and renew if necessary15.6  Removing rear lower lateral link
15.4  Rear upper lateral link to body 
bolts (A) and trailing arm pivot bolt (B)15.3  Front lateral link to body mounting
bolt (arrowed) is slotted to permit rear
wheel alignment
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							16 Rear suspension trailing
arm- removal and refitting
5
Removal
1Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate rear
roadwheel, then follow the procedure under
the relevant sub heading.
Non-ABS models
2Remove the rear hub assembly.
3Undo the bolts and remove the clips securing
the handbrake cable and brake hose brackets
to the trailing arm (see illustration). Remove
the four bolts securing the backplate to the
trailing arm and carefully ease the backplate
assembly outwards and off the end of the stub
axle. Position the backplate out of the way of
the stub axle and tie it to the rear suspension
unit coil spring using a piece of wire.
ABS models
4Remove the two brake caliper shield
retaining screws and remove the shield from
the caliper.
5Slacken and remove the bolts securing the
handbrake cable and brake hose retaining
clamps to the trailing arm. Undo the two bolts
securing the caliper mounting bracket to the
trailing arm and slide the caliper off the disc.
Tie the caliper to the rear suspension strut coil
spring to avoid placing any strain on the
hydraulic hose or handbrake cable.
6Remove the ABS rear wheel sensor.
All models
7Slacken and remove the three pivot bolts
securing the front lateral link, rear lower lateral
link and rear upper lateral link to the trailing arm.
8Remove the two bolts securing the trailing
arm mounting bracket to the vehicle body,
then manoeuvre the trailing arm assembly out
of position and away from the vehicle (see
illustration).9Inspect the trailing arm for signs of damage
such as cracks, paying particular to the areas
around the mounting bolt holes, and examine
the mounting bush for signs of damage and
deterioration. If either the arm or bush show
signs of wear or damage, the trailing arm and
bush assembly must be renewed as a unit
since neither component is available
separately.
Refitting
10Refitting is the reverse of removal, noting
the following:
a) Manoeuvre the trailing arm into position
and tighten its mounting bolts to the
specified torque.
b) Refit all the pivot bolts and tighten them
only loosely.
c) On non-ABS models, tighten the
backplate retaining bolts to the specified
torque then refit the hub.
d) On ABS models, tighten the brake caliper
mounting bracket bolts to the specified
torque and refit the wheel sensor.
e) With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
rock the suspension to settle all the
suspension components in position then
tighten all the disturbed pivot bolts to
their specified torque setting.
f) On completion, check and, if necessary,
adjust rear wheel alignment.
17 Steering- inspection
Refer to Chapter 1.
18 Steering wheel- 
removal and refitting
2
Models without airbag (SRS)
Removal
1Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position. The steering wheel spokes should be
horizontal.
2Carefully prise out the horn button from the
centre of the steering wheel. Disconnect the
wires from the button terminals and remove
the button (see illustrations).
3Using a socket, unscrew and remove the
steering wheel retaining nut.
4Mark the steering wheel and steering
column shaft in relation to each other then lift
the steering wheel off the column splines. If it
is tight, tap it up near the centre, using the
palm of your hand, or twist it from side to side
whilst pulling upwards to release it from the
shaft splines.
Suspension and steering  10•13
16.8  Trailing arm mounting bolts (arrowed)16.3  Remove retaining clip and free brake hose from trailing arm
18.2b  . . . and disconnect wiring from
button terminals18.2a  Remove horn button from steering
wheel . . .
10
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							Refitting
5Before refitting, check that the steering
column splines are clean.
6Refit the wheel, entering the cut-outs on its
lower surface with the direction indicator
cancelling cam tabs and aligning the marks
made on dismantling. This should leave the
wheel positioned as described in paragraph 1
(see illustrations).
7Tighten the steering wheel nut to the
specified torque wrench setting, then
reconnect the horn wiring to the horn
terminals and press the horn into position in
the centre of the wheel.
Models with airbag (SRS)
Removal
8Remove the ignition key and wait at least
ten minutes to allow the SRS system backup
circuit to fully discharge. Disconnect both
battery leads, earth lead first, to avoid
accidental detonation of the airbag.
9Remove the airbag unit, see Chapter 12.
10Detach the SRS harness multiplug from
the slip ring (see illustration).
11Set the steering in the straight-ahead
position and, using a socket, unscrew the
steering wheel retaining nut until its top is
flush with the end of the column shaft.12Mark the steering wheel and steering
column shaft in relation to each other then lift
the steering wheel off the column splines. If it is
tight, tap it up near the centre, using the palm of
your hand, to release it from the shaft splines.
13Remove and discard the steering wheel
retaining nut. A new self-locking nut must be
obtained for reassembly. 
14Remove the steering wheel from the column.
Refitting
15Refit the steering wheel by reversing the
removal procedure, noting the following:
a) Before refitting, check that the steering
column splines are clean.
b) Enter the cut-outs on the lower surface of
the wheel with the direction indicator
cancelling cam tabs and align the marks
made on dismantling. This should leave
the wheel in the same position as before
removal.
c) Take care to ensure that wiring is not
trapped between mating surfaces.
d) Fit a new wheel retaining nut and tighten
it to the specified torque wrench setting
e) Refit the airbag unit, carrying out the
system check given in Chapter 12.
f) When reconnecting the battery leads, fit
the negative lead last
19 Steering column- 
removal and refitting
3
Models without airbag
Removal
1Insert the key to ensure the steering column
is unlocked, then release the column tilt lever
and position the steering wheel at the lowest
possible position. Remove the steering wheel.
2Disconnect the battery negative terminal
then undo the five right-hand lower facia
panel retaining screws and remove the panel
from the facia.
3Prise the large snap-ring which secures the
two halves of the steering column shroud
together from the top of the shrouds and
remove the ignition key. Undo the three screws
securing the lower shroud to the steering
column and remove both the upper and lower
steering column shrouds (see illustrations).
10•14 Suspension and steering
19.3c  . . . and remove lower and upper
shrouds19.3b  . . .  undo lower shroud retaining
screws (arrowed) . . .19.3a  Prise off snap-ring . . .
18.10  Detach SRS harness multiplug (A) from slip ring and unscrew steering wheel
retaining nut (B)
18.6b  . . .  then refit wheel retaining 
nut18.6a  Ensure steering wheel cut-outs are
correctly engaged with indicator
cancelling cam tabs (arrowed) . . .
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							4Lift the indicator cancelling cam off the
steering column and disconnect the wiring
connectors from the rear of the steering
column combination switch assembly.
5Undo the two combination switch retaining
screws and slide the assembly off the end of
the steering column (see illustration).
6Trace the ignition switch wiring back to its
wiring connectors and disconnect them from
the main wiring loom.
7Pull back the driver’s footwell carpet and
remove the two studs securing the lower
column cover to the floor. Remove the two
retaining clips from the upper end of the cover
and withdraw the cover (see illustrations).
8Using a hammer and punch, white paint or
similar, mark the exact relationship between
the steering column shaft and shaft-to-
steering gear universal joint, then slacken and
remove the pinch-bolt securing the joint to the
column shaft.
9Undo the nut and bolt securing the lower
steering column mounting clamp in position
and remove the clamp (see illustration).
Slacken and remove the two nuts and bolts
securing the upper mounting assembly to the
vehicle then disengage the column from its
mounting studs and universal joint then
remove it from the vehicle.
Refitting
10Before refitting the steering column,
closely examine the upper mounting
assembly for damage or misalignment.11Align the marks made on dismantling and
engage the steering column shaft splines with
those of the universal joint.
12Locate the upper mounting bracket
assembly over its mounting studs and refit the
upper mounting nuts and bolts. Refit the lower
mounting clamp and tighten its retaining nut
and bolt to the specified torque setting, then
tighten the upper mounting nuts and bolts to
their specified torque settings.
13Refit the universal joint to steering column
pinch-bolt and tighten it to the specified
torque. Refit the lower cover over the steering
column and secure it in position with the
retaining clips and studs.
14Refit the combination switch to the
column and tighten its screws securely. Refit
the indicator cancelling cam to the steering
column, ensuring that it is correctly located
with the switch assembly, and reconnect the
combination and ignition switch wiring
connectors (see illustration). Ensure that the
wiring is correctly routed and secured by any
relevant clips.
15Offer up the two halves of the 
steering column shroud and refit the 
three retaining screws to the lower shroud.
Ensure the shroud halves are clipped 
firmly together, then refit the snap ring to its
groove.
16Refit the lower facia panel, tightening its
retaining screws securely, then refit the
steering wheel.
Models with airbag (SRS)
Removal
17Remove the ignition key and wait at least
ten minutes to allow the SRS system backup
circuit to fully discharge. Disconnect both
battery leads, earth lead first, to avoid
accidental detonation of the airbag.
18Set the steering in the straight-ahead
position then lock the steering column in its
lowest position. 
19Remove the airbag unit, see Chapter 12.
20Remove the steering wheel.
21Remove the steering column combination
switch, see Chapter 12.
22Disconnect the combination switch and
ignition switch multiplugs, then release the
cable tie securing the wiring harness to the
steering column (see illustration).
23Carry out the sequence given in
paragraphs 7 to 9 inclusive.
Refitting
24Carry out the sequence given in
paragraphs 10 to 13 inclusive.
25Reconnect the combination switch and
ignition switch multiplugs, then secure the
wiring harness to the steering column.
26Refit the steering column combination
switch, see Chapter 12.
27Refit the steering wheel, then refit the
airbag unit, see Chapter 12. 
Suspension and steering  10•15
19.7b  . . . and withdraw lower steering
column cover19.7a  Remove retaining clips . . .19.5  Combination switch assembly is
retained by two screws (arrowed)
19.22  Disconnect switch multiplugs (A)
then release cable tie (B)19.14  Ensure that indicator cancelling cam
is correctly engaged with combination
switch assembly19.9  Steering column lower mounting
clamp components
10
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							20 Steering column- overhaul
3
1With the steering column removed from the
vehicle, fit the ignition key and check that the
steering lock is off. Remove the circlip from the
upper end of the column shaft and lift off the
washer and spring washer (see illustration).
2Carefully withdraw the steering shaft from
the lower end of the steering column. Note the
inner circlip fitted to the shaft upper end.
3Inspect the steering shaft for straightness
and for signs of impact and damage to the
collapsible portion. Check for signs of wear,
such as scoring, on the shaft bush and check
the steering shaft universal joint for signs of
damage or roughness in the joint bearings. If
any damage or wear is found on the steering
shaft, shaft bush or universal joint, the shaft
must be renewed as an assembly.4Inspect the steering column for signs of
damage and renew if necessary. Closely
examine the column upper mounting and tilt
assembly for signs of damage or distortion,
paying particular attention to the upper
mounting bending plate and its spring retainer.
The bending plate is designed to distort in the
event of an impact hitting the steering wheel
and must be renewed, along with its spring
retainer, if it is not completely straight. Renew
other components as necessary.
5If renewal of any of the upper mounting or
steering column tilt assembly components is
necessary, make a note of the correct fitted
positions of all components before
dismantling the assembly. Use this as a guide
when reassembling all the components to
ensure they are correctly fitted. Ensure that
the ends of the bending plate spring retainer
are correctly located in the holes in the
mounting bracket and the retainer is hooked
over the claw situated in the centre of the
bracket (see illustration).6Apply a smear of grease to the steering
shaft and column bearing surfaces and to the
shaft bush. If a new steering shaft is being
installed, transfer the inner circlip from the old
shaft onto the second groove in the upper end
of the new shaft.
10•16 Suspension and steering
20.5  Fitted positions of upper mounting
assembly components
20.1  Steering column components
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 1 Horn button assembly
2 Steering wheel retaining nut
3 Steering wheel
4 Contact ring
5 Snap ring
6 Upper shroud
7 Guide rails
8 Bending plate guide
9 Bending plate spring
10 Bending plate base
11 Upper column holder
12 Bending plate
13 Column hanger spring
14 Tilt adjusting bolt and washers
15 Tilt lock plate
16 Tilt lock bolt and washers
17 Tilt lever and spring
18 Steering column
19 Bush and retainer
20 Circlip
21 Washer
22 Spring washer
23 Bearing
24 Circlip
25 Steering shaft
26 Shaft bush
27 Horn pick-up
28 Indicator cancelling cam
29 Combination switch assembly
30 Ignition switch/steering lock
31 Retaining clips
32 Lower cover
33 Lower shroud
34 Shroud retaining screw 
						

							7Insert the steering shaft into position in the
steering column and refit the spring washer
and flat washer to the upper end of the
steering shaft, securing them in position with
the circlip. Ensure that the circlip is correctly
located in its groove and check that the shaft
rotates freely in the column. Remove the
ignition key and check that the steering lock
functions correctly.
8Before installing the column assembly,
check the steering shaft-to-steering gear
universal joint for signs of wear or damage
and smoothness of operation. If there is any
sign of roughness in the joint bearing, it must
be renewed before refitting the steering
column.
21 Steering lock/ignition switch
- removal and refitting
3
Warning: Before attempting
removal of the ignition switch,
read carefully the precautions
listed in Chapter 12,
appertaining to vehicles equipped with
airbags (SRS).Note:The steering lock/ignition switch is
secured by two shear-head bolts. Although new
bolts are supplied with replacement steering
lock assemblies, always ensure that the bolts
themselves are available before beginning work.
Removal
1Remove the steering column.
2Securely clamp the column assembly in a
vice equipped with soft jaws, taking great
care not to overtighten the vice and distort the
steering column.
3Centre-punch the two steering lock shear
bolts then drill off the heads of the bolts. Note
that new shear bolts must be obtained for
refitting.
4Withdraw the steering lock/ignition switch,
then unscrew the remains of the shear bolts
by using a self-locking wrench or similar on
the exposed ends.
Refitting
5On refitting, carefully align the assembly on
the steering column, lightly tighten the bolts and
check that the steering lock works smoothly.
6Tighten the shear bolts evenly until their
heads shear off.
7Refit the steering column.
22 Steering gear rubber 
gaiters- renewal
3
1Remove the track rod balljoint and unscrew
the locknut from the track rod end (see
illustration).
2Using a pair of pliers, release the outer
steering gear gaiter retaining clip and slide it
off the track rod end. Remove the inner gaiter
retaining clip by cutting it, then slide the gaiter
off the end of the track rod.
3Thoroughly clean the track rod and the
steering gear housing, using fine abrasive
paper to polish off any corrosion, burrs or
sharp edges which might damage the new
gaiter’s sealing lips on fitting. Repair kits
which consist of new gaiters and retaining
clips are available from Rover dealers.
4Fit the new rubber gaiter, ensuring that it is
correctly seated in the grooves in the steering
gear housing and track rod.
5Check that the gaiter is not twisted or
dented then secure it in position using new
retaining clips.
6Refit the locknut and balljoint onto the track
rod end.
23 Steering gear- removal,
overhaul and refitting
5
Removal
1Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the
handbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle
and support on axle stands. Remove the
appropriate front roadwheel.
2Working inside the vehicle, peel back the
driver’s footwell carpet and remove the studs
securing the lower steering column cover to
the floor. Remove the two retaining clips from
the upper end of the cover and withdraw the
cover.
3Mark the relative positions of the steering
gear pinion and joint to use as a guide when
refitting, then slacken and remove the two
universal joint pinch-bolts (see illustration).
Slide the universal joint up the steering
Suspension and steering  10•17
23.3  Steering column universal joint
pinch-bolts (arrowed)
22.1  Steering gear components
1 Steering rack
2 Track rod balljoint
3 Steering rack gaiter
4 Gaiter outer retaining clip
5 Gaiter inner retaining clip
6 Balljoint retaining nut
7 Split pin8 Mounting clamp
9 Mounting bush
10 Mounting bush
11 Steering rack mounting
bolt
12 Spacer13 Washer
14 Washers
15 Steering rack mounting
clamp bolt
16 Power steering fluid pipes
(where fitted)10
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							column shaft splines until it is free from the
steering gear pinion.
4Extract the split pins and undo the nuts
securing the steering gear track rod balljoints
to the swivel hubs. Release the balljoint
shanks by using a suitable balljoint separator
tool whilst taking care not to damage the
balljoint gaiters.
5From underneath the vehicle, slacken and
remove the bolt securing the rear
engine/gearbox unit mounting connecting link
to the subframe bracket, then remove the
three subframe bracket retaining bolts and
remove the bracket, releasing it from the
exhaust mounting rubber. Undo the two bolts
securing the connecting link and bracket
assembly to the gearbox housing and remove
the assembly from the vehicle.
6Undo the three front exhaust pipe to
manifold retaining nuts and, where necessary,
the two bolts securing the front pipe mounting
bracket to the vehicle. Release the
intermediate exhaust section from its
mountings and lower the front of the exhaust
system.
7In the absence of the special gearchange
linkage balljoint separator (Rover service tool
Number 18G 1592), use a suitable flat-bladed
screwdriver to carefully lever the lower
gearchange rod balljoint off the gearchange
linkage bellcrank assembly. Remove the three
bolts securing the assembly to the subframe
(see illustration).
8Using a suitable stout bar, lever down on
the rear of the engine/gearbox unit and insert
a block of wood between the gearbox and
subframe to hold it in position. This is
necessary to gain the required clearance to
remove the steering gear.
9On models equipped with power-assisted
steering, remove the bolt securing the feed
and return pipe mounting bracket to the
subframe. Mark the pipe union bolts to ensure
they are correctly positioned on reassembly,
then unscrew the pipe to steering gear union
nuts (see illustration). Be prepared for fluid
spillage and position a suitable container
beneath the pipes whilst unscrewing the
union nuts. This fluid must be disposed of 
and new fluid of the specified type used 
when refilling. Plug the pipe ends and steering
gear orifices to prevent excessive fluidleakage and entry of dirt into the hydraulic
system.
10On all models, fully extend the left-hand
track rod then undo the two left-hand steering
gear mounting bolts and remove the mounting
bracket. Undo the two right-hand mounting
bolts, noting the mounting bushes and
spacers, and free the steering gear pinion
from its cutout.
11Initially move the steering gear to the left,
to free the right-hand track rod from the
subframe, then manoeuvre the assembly out
from the right-hand side of the vehicle.
Remove the washers from the steering gear
pinion.
Overhaul
12Examine the steering gear assembly for
signs of wear or damage and check that the
rack moves freely throughout the full length of
its travel with no signs of roughness or
excessive free play between the steering gear
pinion and rack. The steering gear is available
only as a complete assembly with no
individual components, the exception being
the track rod balljoints and rubber gaiters.
Therefore, if worn, the complete assembly
must be renewed.
13Inspect the steering gear mounting
bushes for signs of damage or deterioration
and renew as necessary.
Refitting
14Refit the washers to the pinion and, with
the left-hand track rod fully extended,
manoeuvre the steering gear into position 
from the right-hand side of the vehicle. Once
both the track rods are located in the subframe
cutouts, refit the mounting clamp and bolts,
ensuring that the mounting bushes and
spacers are correctly positioned. Tighten the
mounting bolts to the specified torque.
15Centralise the steering gear rack so that
both track rods are protruding by an equal
distance.
16On models equipped with power-assisted
steering, wipe clean the feed and return pipe
unions then refit them to their respective
positions on the steering gear and tighten the
union nuts to the specified torque. Refit the
bolt securing the pipe retaining bracket to the
subframe and tighten securely.17The remainder of the refitting procedure is
direct reversal of removal, noting the
following:
a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque settings.
b) Secure the track rod balljoint retaining
nuts in position with new split pins.
c) When refitting the universal joint to the
steering gear pinion splines, ensure that
the front wheels are pointing in the
straight-ahead direction then, if
necessary, align the marks made on
dismantling and check that the steering
wheel spokes are horizontal.
d) On completion, check and, if necessary,
adjust front wheel alignment.
e) On models equipped with power-assisted
steering, bleed the hydraulic system.
24 Power steering pump
drivebelt - inspection and
adjustment
Refer to Chapter 1.
25 Power steering pump-
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Slacken, but do not remove, the three
power steering pump pulley retaining bolts,
then remove the power steering pump
drivebelt.
2Position a suitable container beneath the
power steering pump to catch any spilt fluid,
then slacken the inlet hose retaining clip and
disconnect the hose from the top of the
steering pump. Undo the bolt securing the
outlet pipe retaining bracket to the pump,
then unscrew the outlet pipe union nut and
disconnect the pipe from the pump, noting
the O-ring which is fitted to the union (see
illustrations). Plug the hose ends and pump
unions to prevent excessive fluid loss and the
possible entry of dirt into the system.
3Remove the reservoir from its mounting
10•18 Suspension and steering
25.2a  Slacken retaining clamp and
disconnect inlet hose from pump
23.9  Power steering pipes and steering
gear right-hand mounting bolts (arrowed)23.7  Gearchange linkage bellcrank
mounting bolts (arrowed)
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							bracket and position it clear of the pump
assembly (see illustration).
4Unscrew the pump pulley retaining bolts and
remove the pulley. Check that the front face of
the pulley is marked FRONT and if not, mark it
by using a dab of white paint. This mark can
then be used to ensure that the pulley is
correctly refitted (see illustrations).
5Undo the five bolts (three on the right-hand
side of the pump, and two on the left)
securing the power steering pump to the
mounting bracket and remove the pump from
the engine (see illustrations).
6The power steering pump is a sealed unit
and cannot be repaired. If faulty the pump
assembly must be renewed.Refitting
7Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following (see
illustration):
a) Tighten the pump mounting bolts to the
specified torque.
b) Fit a new O-ring to the pump outlet pipe
union and tighten the union nut to the
specified torque.
c) Ensure the pulley is correctly installed and
lightly tighten its mounting bolts.
d) Refit and adjust the drivebelt, then tighten
the pulley mounting bolts to the specified
torque.
e) On completion, bleed the hydraulic
system.26 Power steering oil cooler-
removal and refitting
4
Removal
1Remove the right-hand headlamp assembly.
2Remove the bonnet lock.
3Position a suitable container beneath the
power steering oil cooler hose connections to
catch any spilt fluid, then slacken the hose
retaining clips and disconnect both hoses
(see illustration). Plug the hose and oil cooler
ends to prevent excessive fluid loss and
possible entry of dirt into the system.
Suspension and steering  10•19
25.3  Removing power steering fluid
reservoir from retaining clamp25.2c  . . .  and unscrew outlet pipe union
nut from pump25.2b  Remove outlet pipe bracket
retaining bolt . . .
26.3  Slacken clamps and disconnect
hoses from power steering oil cooler25.7  Always renew outlet pipe O-ring
(arrowed)25.5b  . . . and remove pump
25.5a  Unscrew power steering pump
mounting bolts (three arrowed) . . .25.4b  . . .  and withdraw pulley. Note
FRONT mark on pulley face (arrowed)25.4a  Remove pulley retaining bolts
(arrowed) . . .
10
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							4Undo the three oil cooler mounting bracket
retaining bolts, then manoeuvre the oil cooler
assembly out from between the front bumper
and body (see illustrations).
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. On completion, bleed the system.
27 Power steering system-
bleeding
2
Warning: Avoid holding the
steering at full lock for long
periods of time. Failure to do so
could lead to overheating, and
possible damage, of the power steering
pump and steering gear.
1Remove the cap from the power steering
fluid reservoir and fill the reservoir with the
specified fluid.
2Disconnect the distributor wiring to prevent
the engine from starting, then turn the engine
over for approximately 5 seconds to prime the
power steering pump.
3Reconnect the distributor wiring, then
check the reservoir fluid level is between the
MAX and MIN level markings on the side of
the reservoir, topping up if necessary.
4Start the engine and allow it to idle for
approximately 30 seconds with the front wheelspointing in the straight-ahead position. After 30
seconds, turn the steering onto full lock in one
direction, hold it there for a few seconds, then
turn it onto full lock in the opposite direction and
hold it there for a few seconds. Return the front
wheels to the straight-ahead position. Repeat
this procedure until air bubbles cease to appear
in the fluid reservoir.
5If, when turning the steering, an abnormal
noise is heard from the fluid lines, it indicates
that there is still air in the system. Check this
by turning the wheels to the straight-ahead
position and switching off the engine. If the
fluid level in the reservoir rises, then air is
present in the system and further bleeding is
necessary.
6Once all traces of air have been removed
from the power steering hydraulic system,
turn the engine off and allow the system to
cool. Once cool, check that fluid level is up to
the MAX mark on the power steering fluid
reservoir. Top up if necessary.
28 Track rod balljoint- 
removal and refitting
5
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate front roadwheel.2If the balljoint is to be re-used, use a
straight-edge and a scriber, or similar, to mark
its relationship to the track rod.
3Holding the balljoint, unscrew its locknut by
one quarter of a turn.
4Extract the split pin and undo the nut
securing the steering gear track rod balljoint
to the swivel hub. Release the balljoint shank
by using a suitable balljoint separator tool
whilst taking care not to damage the balljoint
gaiter (see illustration).
5Unscrew the balljoint from the track rod,
counting the exact number of turns necessary
to do so. If the locknut is to be removed, mark
its position on the track rod and count the
number of turns required to remove it so that
it can be returned exactly to its original
position on reassembly.
6Carefully clean the balljoint and the threads.
Renew the balljoint if its movement is sloppy
or too stiff, if it is excessively worn, or if it is
damaged in any way. Carefully check the stud
taper and threads. No grease leakage should
be visible.
Refitting
7If necessary, screw the locknut onto the
track rod by the number of turns noted on
removal. This should align the locknut with the
mark made on dismantling.
8Screw the balljoint onto the track rod by the
number of turns noted on removal. This
should bring the balljoint to within a quarter of
a turn from the locknut, with the alignment
marks that were made (if applicable) on
removal lined up.
9Refit the balljoint shank to the swivel hub
and tighten its retaining nut to the specified
torque setting. Use a new split pin to 
secure the retaining nut in position (see
illustration).
10Refit the roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel nuts to the specified torque
setting.
11Check and, if necessary, adjust front
wheel alignment.
10•20 Suspension and steering
28.9  Secure balljoint retaining nut in position with new split pin28.4  Using a universal balljoint separator to free track rod
balljoint from swivel hub
26.4b  Oil cooler lower mounting bolt can
be accessed via bumper grille26.4a  Power steering oil cooler upper
mounting bolts (arrowed)
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