Land Rover Rover 214 Repair 1689 10 Rover Manual
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1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 10 Chapter 10 Suspension and steering Front hub bearings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Front anti-roll bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Front anti-roll bar connecting link - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 8 Front suspension lower arm - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . 10 Front suspension strut - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . 6 Front suspension strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Front suspension tie bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Front swivel hub assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Power steering oil cooler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Power steering pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Power steering pump drivebelt - inspection and adjustment . . . . . . 24 Power steering system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Rear hub and bearings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Rear stub axle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Rear suspension lateral links - removal, inspection and refitting . . . 15 Rear suspension strut - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . 14 Rear suspension strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Rear suspension trailing arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Steering - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Steering column - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Steering column - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Steering gear - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Steering lock/ignition switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Suspension - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Track rod balljoint - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Wheel alignment and steering angles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 10•1 Contents Specifications Front suspension Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fully independent, by MacPherson struts with coil springs and integral shock absorbers. Anti-roll bar mounted onto both lower suspension arms Rear suspension Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fully independent double wishbone type, by trailing arms with transverse lateral links, suspension struts with coil springs and integral shock absorbers Steering Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rack and pinion, power-assisted steering available as an option Turns lock-to-lock: Manual . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 Power-assisted . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.4 Easy,suitable for novice with little experienceFairly easy,suitable for beginner with some experienceFairly difficult, suitable for competent DIY mechanic Difficult,suitable for experienced DIY mechanicVery difficult, suitable for expert DIY or professional Degrees of difficulty 54321
Wheel alignment and steering angles All measurements are with vehicle at kerb weight Toe-out in turns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inside roadwheel 17º 17’ Outside roadwheel 16º 21’ ± 2’ Camber angle: Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º 20’ negative ± 0º 10’ Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º 50’ negative to 0º 50’ positive Castor angle: Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1º 59’ positive ± 0º 30’ Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N/A Steering axis inclination (SAI) or kingpin inclination (KPI) . . . . . . . . . . . . 12º Toe setting: Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º 10’ ± 0º 15’ toe-out Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º 11’ ± 0º 7.5’ toe-in Roadwheels Type: 214 GSi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Steel (alloy optional) All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Steel Size: 214 S without ABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 x 13 214 S with ABS, 214, 414 Si and SLi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 x 14 214 GSi: Standard (steel wheels) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 x 14 Optional (alloy wheels) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.5 x 14 Tyres Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tubeless, steel-braced radial Size: 214 S without ABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 SR 13 214 S with ABS, 214, 414 Si and SLi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175/65 TR 14 214 GSi: Standard (steel wheels) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175/65 TR 14 Optional (alloy wheels) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185/60 HR 14 Pressures (cold) - 155 SR 13 tyres:Front Rear Normal driving conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi) Loads in excess of four persons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.3 bar (34 psi) Speeds in excess of 100 mph - all loads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi) Pressures (cold) - 175/65 TR 14 tyres:Front Rear All loads - up to 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi) All loads - over 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi) Pressures (cold) - 185/60 HR 14 tyres:Front Rear All loads - up to 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi) All loads - over 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 bar (36 psi) 2.5 bar (36 psi) Note:Pressures apply only to original equipment tyres and may vary if any other make or type is fitted. Check with the tyre manufacturer or supplier for correct pressures if necessary Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft Front suspension Driveshaft retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 137 Front suspension strut: Upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24 Swivel hub pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74 Brake hose clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18 Upper mounting plate retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30 Anti-roll bar: Mounting clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11 Connecting link bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Tie bar: Lower suspension arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59 Retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41 Lower arm: Balljoint retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44 Body pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 10•2 Suspension and steering 1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
1 General information and precautions General information The independent front suspension is of the MacPherson strut type, incorporating coil springs and integral telescopic shock absorbers. The MacPherson struts are located by transverse lower suspension arms, which utilize rubber inner mounting bushes and incorporate a balljoint at the outer ends, and forward facing longitudinal tie bars. Both lower suspension arms are connected to an anti-roll bar via a small connecting link. The front swivel hubs, which carry the wheel bearings, brake calipers and the hub/disc assemblies, are bolted to the MacPherson struts and connected to the lower arms via the balljoints.The fully independent rear suspension is of double wishbone type, utilising pressed steel trailing arms which have the roadwheel stub axles bolted into their rear ends. These are located longitudinally on the vehicle underbody via a large rubber bush which is situated towards the centre of each arm. Each trailing arm assembly is located transversely by three lateral links, which utilize rubber mounting bushes at both their inner and outer ends. The rear suspension struts incorporate coil springs and integral telescopic shock absorbers and are mounted onto the rear lower lateral link via a rubber mounting bush. The steering wheel is of the energy- absorbing type (to protect the driver in the event of an accident) and is attached by a deeply-recessed nut to the steering column which is also collapsible. In the event of an impact, such as in an accident, the lower steering column clamp and the upper column mounting, fitted with energy absorbingbending plates, is designed to allow the column to slide downwards. The downwards movement of the column bends the mounting plates which absorb some of the energy, so lessening the force transmitted to the driver via the steering wheel. An airbag is available as an option and, when fitted, is mounted in the centre of the steering wheel. See Chapter 12 for full details. The steering column has a universal joint fitted towards the lower end of its length and its bottom end is clamped to a second universal joint, which is in turn clamped to the steering gear pinion. The steering gear is mounted onto the engine compartment bulkhead and is connected by two track rods, with balljoints at their outer ends, to the steering arms projecting rearwards from the hub carriers. The track rod ends are threaded to facilitate adjustment. Power-assisted steering is available as an Torque wrench settings (continued)Nm lbf ft Rear suspension Rear hub nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 137 Drum brake backplate-to-trailing arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48 Disc brake shield-to-trailing arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11 Brake hose bracket-to-trailing arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11 Handbrake cable-to-trailing arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16 Stub axle: Retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 125 Trailing arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41 Rear suspension strut: Upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24 Lower mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Upper mounting plate retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30 Lateral link pivot bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Trailing arm mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 61 Steering Steering wheel nut: Without airbag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 39 With airbag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 32 Steering column: Lower mounting bolt and nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15 Upper mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15 Upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 10 Universal joint pinch-bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22 Steering gear mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 31 Steering gear mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18 Power-assisted steering gear: Feed pipe union nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 29 Return pipe union nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 23 Track rod balljoint: Retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 32 Locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41 Power steering pump: Mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35 Outlet pipe union nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41 Pulley retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7 Power steering oil cooler mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7 Roadwheels Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74 Suspension and steering 10•3 10 1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
option on all models. The main components being a rack and pinion steering gear unit, a hydraulic pump which is belt-driven off the crankshaft and the hydraulic feed and return lines between the pump and steering gear. Precautions The driveshaft hub and stub axle nuts arevery tight – ensure the car is securely suppoted when loosening and tightening them. A number of precautions must be observed when working on the steering components of vehicles equipped with airbags, these are listed in Chapter 12. 2 Front swivel hub assembly- removal and refitting 3 Removal 1Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the appropriate front roadwheel. 2Using a hammer and suitable chisel nosed tool, tap up the staking securing the driveshaft retaining nut to the groove in the outer constant velocity joint (see illustration). 3Have an assistant firmly depress the footbrake, then using a socket and extension bar, slacken and remove the driveshaft retaining nut. Discard the nut. A new nut must be obtained for reassembly. 4If the hub bearings are to be disturbed, remove the brake disc. If not, undo the two bolts securing the caliper mounting bracket to the hub and slide the caliper off the disc. Tie the caliper to the suspension strut to avoid placing any strain on the brake hose. 5On models equipped with ABS, remove the front wheel sensor. 6Slacken and remove the bolt and washer securing the anti-roll bar connecting link to the lower suspension arm and undo the two bolts securing the tie bar to the lower suspension arm. 7Extract the split pins and undo the nuts securing the steering gear track rod and lower suspension arm balljoints to the swivel hub. Release both the balljoints from the swivel hub by using a suitable balljoint separator, taking great care not to damage the balljoint gaiters. 8Slacken the swivel hub-to-suspension strut clamp bolt then carefully ease the hub off the strut. Once free, pull the hub outwards to free it from the constant velocity joint splines, then remove it from the vehicle (see illustration). Whilst the hub is removed, support the driveshaft by tying it to the suspension strut to avoid damaging the inner constant velocity joint or gaiter. 10•4 Suspension and steering 2.8 Removing swivel hub assembly 2.2 Front suspension components 1 Rubber cover 2 Self-locking nut 3 Washer 4 Strut upper mounting nut 5 Upper mounting plate 6 Bearing 7 Upper spring seat 8 Dust cover 9 Coil spring 10 Washer 11 Rubber damper stop 12 Strut 13 Strut lower clamp bolt 14 Tie bar 15 Bolt - tie bar to lower arm 16 Nut - tie bar to subframe17 Flanged washer 18 Mounting bush 19 Spacer 20 Driveshaft retaining nut 21 Brake disc 22 Disc retaining screw 23 Hub 24 Disc shield 25 Bolt 26 Circlip 27 Hub bearing 28 Swivel hub 29 Driveshaft 30 Lower suspension arm 31 Balljoint retaining nut32 Lower arm pivot bush 33 Lower arm pivot bolt 34 Anti-roll bar connecting link 35 Bolt 36 Nut 37 Bolt - anti-roll bar connecting link to lower arm 38 Anti-roll bar 39 Mounting rubber 40 Mounting clamp 41 Bolt 42 Split pin 43 Track rod balljoint 1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
Refitting 9Refitting is reversal of the removal procedure noting the following: a) Ensure that the lug on the base of the suspension strut correctly engages with the slot in the swivel hub assembly clamp. b) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque. c) Where necessary, refit the brake disc and/or ABS wheel sensor as described in Chapter 9. d) Use new split pins to secure the track rod and lower suspension arm balljoint retaining nuts in position. e) When fitting the new driveshaft retaining nut, tighten it to the specified torque then stake it firmly into the groove in the constant velocity joint by using a suitable punch. 3 Front hub bearings- removal and refitting 4 Note:The front hub bearing is a sealed, pre- adjusted and pre-lubricated, double-row roller type, and is intended to last the vehicle’s entire service life without maintenance or attention. Do not attempt to remove the bearing unless absolutely necessary, as it will probably be damaged during the removal operation. Never overtighten the driveshaft nut beyond the specified torque wrench setting in an attempt to ‘adjust’ the bearing. Note:A press will be required to dismantle and rebuild the hub assembly. If such a tool is not available, a large bench vice and suitable spacers (such as large sockets) will serve as an adequate substitute. The service tool numbers for the special Rover mandrels are given in the accompanying illustrations. The bearing’s inner races are an interference fit on the hub. If the outboard inner race remains on the hub when it is pressed out of the hub carrier, a proprietary knife-edged bearing puller will be required to remove it. Removal 1Remove the swivel hub assembly, then undo the brake disc shield retaining screws and remove the shield from the hub. 2Press the hub out of the swivel hub using a tubular spacer (see illustration). If the bearing’s outboard inner race remains on the hub, remove it using a suitable bearing puller. 3Extract both circlips from the swivel hub and discard them as they should be renewed whenever disturbed. 4Press the bearing out of the swivel hub by using a suitable tubular spacer (see illustration). 5Thoroughly clean the hub and swivel hub, removing all traces of dirt and grease. Polish away any burrs or raised edges which might hinder reassembly. Check both for cracks or any other signs of wear or damage and renewthe hub if necessary. The bearing and its circlips must be renewed whenever they are disturbed. A replacement bearing kit is available from Rover dealers which consists of the bearing and both circlips. 6Check the condition of the roadwheel studs in the hub flange. If any are sheared off, stretched or have damaged threads, they can be pressed out of the hub providing that its flange is fully supported. On refitting, support the hub flange and press in the new stud until it seats fully. Refitting 7On reassembly, check (if possible) that the new bearing is packed with grease and fit the new circlip to the swivel hub outboard groove. Apply a light film of oil to the bearing inner and outer races and to the matching surfaces in the hub and swivel hub to aid fitting of the bearing. 8Support the swivel hub outboard face and, using a suitable tubular spacer which bears only on the bearing’s outer race, press in the new bearing until it seats against the circlip (see illustration). Secure the bearing in position by fitting the second new circlip to the swivel hub’s inboard groove. 9Fully supporting the bearing inner race, press the hub into the bearing and swivel hub until the hub shoulder seats against the bearing’s inner race (see illustration). Wipe off any surplus oil or grease.10Refit the brake disc shield to the swivel hub and tighten its retaining screws securely. 11Refit the swivel hub assembly. 4 Suspension- inspection Refer to Chapter 1. 5 Front suspension strut- removal and refitting 3 Removal 1Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands. Remove the appropriate roadwheel. 2Extract the split pin and undo the nut securing the steering gear track rod balljoint to the swivel hub. Release the balljoint shank, using a suitable balljoint separator tool whilst taking care not to damage the balljoint gaiter. 3Slacken and remove the bolt and washer securing the anti-roll bar connecting link to the lower suspension arm, then undo the two Suspension and steering 10•5 3.4 Pressing hub bearing out of swivel hub3.2 Pressing out hub from swivel hub 3.9 Pressing hub into swivel hub - note support for bearing inner race3.8 Pressing new hub bearing into swivel hub 10 1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
bolts securing the tie bar to the lower suspension arm. 4Undo the bolt securing the brake hose retaining clamp to the strut, then remove the clamp and free the flexible hose (see illustration). 5Slacken the swivel hub-to-suspension strut clamp bolt, then carefully ease the swivel hub assembly off the end of the strut. 6Working in the engine compartment, remove the rubber suspension strut cover. Use chalk or a dab of paint to mark the relative positions of the suspension strut upper mounting and body. Undo the three strut upper mounting nuts and manoeuvre the strut out from under the wheelarch whilst noting the seal which is fitted between the upper mounting plate and vehicle body (see illustrations). Refitting 7Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, noting the following (see illustration): a) Ensure that the marks made on removal are aligned when fitting the strut. b) Ensure that the lug on the base of the suspension strut correctly engages with the slot in the swivel hub assembly. c) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque. d) Use a new split pin to secure the track rod balljoint retaining nut in position. 6 Front suspension strut- dismantling, inspection and reassembly 3 Note:Before attempting to dismantle the front suspension strut, a suitable tool to hold the coil spring in compression must be obtained. Adjustable coil spring compressors are readily available and are recommended for this operation. Any attempt to dismantle the strut without such a tool is likely to result in damage or personal injury. Dismantling 1With the strut removed from the vehicle, clean away all external dirt then mount it upright in a vice. 2Fit the spring compressor and compress the coil spring until all tension is relieved from the upper mounting plate (see illustration). 3Slacken the upper mounting retaining nut whilst retaining the strut piston with an Allen key (see illustration). 4Remove the nut and washer followed by the mounting plate, bearing and upper spring seat. Lift off the coil spring and damper piston dust cover and separate the two components. Slide the washer and rubber damper stop off the strut piston. Inspection 5With the strut assembly completely dismantled, examine all components for wear,damage or deformation and check the bearing for smoothness of operation. Renew any of the components, as necessary. 6Examine the strut for signs of fluid leakage. Check the strut piston for signs of pitting along its entire length and check the strut body for signs of damage. Test the operation of the strut, while holding it in an upright position, by moving the piston through a full stroke and then through short strokes of 50 to 100 mm. In both cases the resistance felt should be smooth and continuous. If the resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is any visible sign of wear or damage to the strut, renewal is necessary. 7If any doubt exists about the condition of the coil spring, carefully remove the spring compressors and check the spring for distortion and signs of cracking. Since no minimum free length is specified by Rover, the only way to check the tension of the spring is to compare it to a new component. Renew the spring if it is damaged or distorted or there is any doubt as to its condition. 8Inspect all other components for signs of damage or deterioration and renew any that are suspect. Reassembly 9Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling. Ensure that the spring ends are correctly located in the upper and lower seats and that the upper mounting plate retaining nut is tightened to the specified torque. 10•6 Suspension and steering 6.3 . . . and remove upper mounting nut whilst retaining piston with Allen key6.2 Compress coil spring with suitable pair of spring compressors . . .5.7 Align suspension strut lug with slot in swivel hub (arrowed) 5.6b Removing a front suspension strut5.6a Remove rubber cover and strut upper mounting nuts (arrowed)5.4 Removing bolt securing brake hose to suspension strut 1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
7 Front anti-roll bar- removal and refitting 3 Removal 1Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove both front roadwheels. 2From underneath the vehicle, undo the bolts securing the gearchange control rod rear rubber mounting to the vehicle underbody. Remove the rubber mounting assembly and bolts, noting the correct fitted positions of the mounting rubber spacers and mounting plate. 3Release the exhaust system from its front rubber mountings, then undo the three gearchange linkage bellcrank assembly retaining bolts and lower the gearchange linkage assembly down onto the exhaust system. 4Slacken and remove the nuts and washers securing each end of the anti-roll bar to the connecting links and remove the bolts (see illustration). 5Mark the location of the clamp bushes on the bar, then undo the mounting clamp retaining bolts and remove the clamps. Make a note of the fitted position of the rubber bush splits to ensure that they are positioned correctly on refitting (see illustration). Manoeuvre the anti-roll bar out over the gearchange linkage and exhaust system and remove it from the right-hand side of the vehicle. 6Carefully examine the anti-roll bar components for signs of wear, damage or deterioration, paying particular attention to the mounting rubbers. Inspect the gearchange mechanism control rod mounting rubber and bush for signs of wear or deterioration. Renew worn components as necessary. Refitting 7Manoeuvre the anti-roll bar into position from the right-hand side of the vehicle and refit the connecting link bolts. Refit thewashers and tighten the nuts, finger tight only. 8Lubricate the mounting clamp bushes with a solution of soapy water then lever the bar down and slide them into position on the anti- roll bar. Ensure that the splits are on the right side of the bushes then align them with the marks made on dismantling. 9Refit the anti-roll bar mounting clamps and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque setting, then tighten the anti-roll bar- to-connecting link bolts to the specified torque. 10Refit the front gearchange mechanism linkage mounting plate assembly retaining bolts and tighten them securely. 11Apply a smear of grease to the gearchange control rod bush and refit the rear mounting rubber assembly. Tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque setting and check that the gearchange mechanism operates smoothly. Refit the exhaust system to the front mounting rubbers. 12Refit the roadwheels then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to the specified torque. 8 Front anti-roll bar connecting link- removal and refitting 3 Removal 1Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the vehicleand support on axle stands. Remove the appropriate front roadwheel. 2From underneath the vehicle, slacken and remove the bolt and washer securing the connecting link to the lower suspension arm (see illustration). 3Remove the nut and washer securing the connecting link to the anti-roll bar, then withdraw the bolt and remove the connecting link from under the vehicle. 4Inspect the connecting link rubber mounting bushes for signs of damage and renew them if they are cracked, worn, split or perished. The bushes are a press fit in the connecting link and can be pressed out and in using a vice and two suitable sized tubular drifts, such as sockets (one bearing on the hard outer edge of the bush and another bearing against the edge of the connecting link). Refitting 5Refitting is the reverse of the removal sequence. Tighten both the connecting link bolts to the specified torque setting. 9 Front suspension tie bar- removal and refitting 3 Removal 1Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands. Remove the appropriate front roadwheel. 2From underneath the front of the vehicle, slacken and remove the three bolts securing the bumper flange to the body. Remove the seven bolts securing the front undercover panel to the body and remove the panel. 3Undo the nut securing the front of the tie bar to the front subframe then remove the flanged washer and mounting bush, noting which direction the flange is facing (see illustration). 4Undo the two bolts securing the tie bar to the lower suspension arm, then remove the rod from the vehicle and slide the spacer, Suspension and steering 10•7 7.5 Correct position of anti-roll bar mounting bush split (arrowed)7.4 Slacken and remove anti-roll bar-to- connecting link bolts 9.3 Tie bar retaining nut is accessed from front of subframe8.2 Anti-roll bar connecting link 10 1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
mounting bush and flanged washer off the tie bar (see illustration). 5Examine all the components for signs of wear or damage, paying particular attention to the mounting bushes and tie bar threads. Renew components as necessary (see illustration). Refitting 6Slide the flange washer, mounting bush and spacer onto the tie bar threads. Ensure that the flange of the washer is facing away from the mounting bush and that the rounded surface of the bush is facing the washer (see illustration). 7Refit the tie bar to the front subframe and fit the second mounting bush and flanged washer. Ensure the flat surface of the mounting bush is facing the subframe and that the flange of the washer is facing away from the mounting bush, then refit the tie bar nut, tightening it finger tight (see illustration). 8Refit the tie bar-to-lower suspension arm bolts and tighten them to the specified torque, then tighten the tie bar retaining nut to the specified torque setting. 9Refit the front undercover panel and tighten all the panel and bumper flange bolts securely.10Refit the roadwheel then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to the specified torque. 10 Front suspension lower arm - removal, overhaul and refitting 5 Note:The lower arm balljoint is an integral part of the lower arm assembly and is not available separately. If renewal of the balljoint is necessary, then the complete lower arm assembly must be renewed. Removal 1Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands. Remove the appropriate front roadwheel. 2Slacken and remove the bolt and washer securing the anti-roll bar connecting link to the lower suspension arm and undo the two bolts securing the tie bar to the lower suspension arm. 3Extract the split pin and undo the nut securing the lower arm balljoint to the swivel hub. Release the balljoint shank by using asuitable balljoint separator tool whilst taking care not to damage the balljoint gaiter. 4Undo the lower suspension arm-to-body pivot bolt and withdraw the lower arm from the vehicle (see illustrations). Overhaul 5Thoroughly clean the lower arm and the area around the arm mountings, removing all traces of dirt and underseal if necessary, then check carefully for cracks, distortion or any other signs of wear or damage. Check that the 10•8 Suspension and steering 10.4b . . . then remove pivot bolt (arrowed) and withdraw lower suspension arm10.4a Release balljoint from swivel hub assembly . . . 9.7 . . . then refit tie bar to subframe and install second mounting bush and flange washer 9.6 Fit flange washer, spacer and mounting bush onto tie bar . . .9.5 Renew tie bar mounting bushes if damaged (arrowed)9.4 Tie bar-to-lower suspension arm bolts 1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
lower arm balljoint moves freely without any sign of roughness and that the balljoint gaiter shows no sign of deterioration and is free from cracks and splits. Examine the shank of the pivot bolt for signs of wear or scoring. Renew worn components, as necessary. 6Check the lower arm inner pivot bush and renew it if worn, cracked, split or perished. Bush renewal is best left to a Rover dealer as a press, a special bush removal/refitting mandrel and a support are required (Rover Service Tool Numbers 18G 1600/2 and 18G 1600/1 respectively). While the old bush can be extracted using a strong bench vice and suitable sockets, it is unlikely that new bushes can be installed successfully without the shaped mandrel (see illustration). Refitting 7Offer up the lower arm and fit the arm to body pivot bolt. Tighten the bolt by hand only at this stage. 8Insert the lower arm balljoint shank into the swivel hub and tighten its retaining bolt to the specified torque. Secure the balljoint nut in position with a new split pin. 9Refit the tie bar and anti-roll bar connecting link to lower arm bolts and tighten them to the specified torque.10Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to the specified torque. 11With the vehicle standing on its wheels, rock the suspension to settle the lower arm bush in position then tighten the lower arm-to- body pivot bolt to the specified torque setting. 12Check and, if necessary, adjust front wheel alignment. 11 Rear hub and bearings- removal and refitting 3 Note:The bearing is a sealed, pre-adjusted and pre-lubricated, double-row tapered-roller type and is intended to last the vehicle’s entire service life without maintenance or attention. Never overtighten the hub nut beyond the specified torque wrench setting in an attempt to ‘adjust’ the bearings. Note:The bearing is an integral part of the hub and can not be purchased separately. If renewal of the bearing is necessary, the complete hub assembly must be renewed as a unit. The only component which is available separately are roadwheel studs. Removal 1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the appropriate rear roadwheel. 2Prise out the cap from the centre of the hub assembly and, using a hammer and suitable chisel nosed tool, tap up the staking securing the hub retaining nut to the groove in the stub axle (see illustration). 3Have an assistant firmly depress the footbrake then, using a socket and extension bar, slacken but do not remove the hub retaining nut. 4Remove the brake drum or disc, as applicable. 5Once the brake drum/disc has been removed, remove the hub nut and toothed washer and pull the hub assembly off the stub axle. If necessary, the hub can be drawn off the stub axle using a three-legged puller. Discard the nut, noting that a new hub retaining nut must be obtained for reassembly. 6Check that there is no sign of free play in the hub bearing and that the bearing inner race rotates smoothly and easily without any sign of roughness. If there is any sign of wear or damage to the hub assembly or bearing, the complete hub assembly must be renewed as a unit. 7Check the condition of the roadwheel studs in the hub flange. If any are sheared off, stretched or have damaged threads, they can be pressed out of the hub providing that its flange is fully supported. On refitting, support the hub flange and press in the new stud until it seats fully. Refitting 8Prior to refitting the hub, inspect the stub axle for signs of wear or scoring and, if necessary, renew it. 9Apply a thin smear of grease to the hub bearing seal and refit the hub assembly. Refit the toothed washer, ensuring that its tooth locates with the groove in the stub axle. Install the new hub nut, tightening it by hand only (see illustrations). 10Refit the brake drum or disc (as applicable) but do not refit the roadwheel. Suspension and steering 10•9 11.2 Prise off centre cap to gain access to rear hub nut 10.6 Using special Rover mandrels to renew lower suspension arm bush A Removing old bush B Fitting new bush 11.9b . . . and washer, ensuring its tooth engages with stub axle groove11.9a Refit the hub . . . 10 1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
11Have an assistant firmly apply the footbrake, then tighten the hub retaining nut to the specified torque. Release the brake and check that the hub rotates smoothly then stake the hub retaining nut fully into the stub axle groove (see illustration). Refit the hub centre cap. 12Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to the specified torque. 13Check and, if necessary, adjust rear wheel alignment. 12 Rear stub axle- removal and refitting 3 Removal 1Remove the rear hub assembly. 2On models fitted with rear drum brakes, remove the lower brake shoe return spring, then disconnect the handbrake cable from thetrailing shoe. Undo the bolts securing the handbrake cable and brake hose brackets to the trailing arm, then use a 12 mm ring spanner to compress the handbrake cable retaining clip and withdraw the cable from the backplate. Remove the four bolts securing the backplate to the trailing arm and carefully ease the backplate assembly outwards and off the end of the stub axle (see illustrations). Position the backplate assembly out of the way of the stub axle and tie it to the rear suspension unit coil spring using a piece of wire. 3On models fitted with rear disc brakes, undo the four disc shield retaining bolts and remove the shield from the trailing arm. 4On all models, using a socket and extension bar, undo the large stub axle retaining nut from the rear of the trailing arm assembly (see illustration). 5Slacken and remove the four Torx bolts securing the stub axle mounting plate to the trailing arm assembly, then withdraw the stub axle and remove it from the vehicle.6Examine the stub axle spindle and mounting plate for signs of wear or damage such as scoring or cracking. If damaged, the stub axle must be renewed. Refitting 7Refitting is a reverse of the removal procedure, tightening all nuts and bolts to the specified torque settings. 13 Rear suspension strut- removal and refitting 3 Removal 1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the appropriate rear roadwheel. 2Slacken and remove both pivot bolts securing the rear lower lateral link to the body 10•10 Suspension and steering 11.11 Stake hub retaining nut firmly into stub axle groove12.2a Using 12 mm spanner to compress handbrake cable retaining tangs 12.2b Backplate retaining bolts (arrowed)12.4 Stub axle retaining nut (A) - Torx bolts are accessed via four holes (arrowed) 1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97