Land Rover Rover 214 Repair 1689 02b Rover Manual

							bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring,
pitting and cracking.
6Rub a penny across each journal several
times. If a journal picks up copper from the
penny, it is too rough (see illustration).
7Remove any burrs from the crankshaft oil
holes with a stone, file or scraper.
8Using a micrometer, measure the diameter
of the main bearing and crankpin (big-end)
journals and compare the results with those
specified (see illustration). Check carefully
that each journal’s diameter is within the
tolerances of the size grade corresponding to
the code number on the crankshaft right-hand
web (main bearing) or indicated by the code
letter on the left-hand web (crankpin/big-end
bearing). If any diameter measured is
incorrect for the grade indicated, re-check the
measurement carefully. If the journal is fit for
further service, the correct grade code should
be substituted when selecting new bearing
shells.
9By measuring the diameter at a number of
points around each journal’s circumference,you will be able to determine whether or not
the journal is out-of-round. Take the
measurement at each end of the journal (near
the webs) to determine if the journal is
tapered.
10If the crankshaft journals are damaged,
tapered, out-of-round or worn beyond the
limits specified, the crankshaft must be
renewed unless an engine overhaul 
specialist can be found who will regrind it and
supply the necessary undersize bearing
shells.
11Check the oil seal journals at each end of
the crankshaft for wear and damage. If either
seal has worn an excessive groove in its
journal, consult an engine overhaul specialist
who will be able to advise whether a repair is
possible or whether a new crankshaft is
necessary.
15 Main and big-end bearings-
inspection
3
1Even though the main and big-end bearings
should be renewed during the engine
overhaul, the old bearings should be retained
for close examination, as they may reveal
valuable information about the condition of
the engine. The bearing shells are graded by
thickness, the grade of each shell 
being indicated by the colour code marked on
it.
2Bearing failure occurs because of lack of
lubrication, the presence of dirt or other
foreign particles, overloading the engine and
corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing
failure, it must be corrected before the engine
is reassembled to prevent it from happening
again (see illustration).
3When examining the bearing shells, remove
them from the cylinder block/crankcase, the
main bearing ladder, the connecting rods and
the connecting rod big-end bearing caps,
then lay them out on a clean surface in the
same general position as their location in the
engine. This will enable you to match any
bearing problems with the corresponding
crankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell’sbearing surface with your fingers while
checking it, or the delicate surface may be
scratched.
4Dirt and other foreign particles get into the
engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in
the engine during assembly, or it may pass
through filters or the crankcase ventilation
system. It may get into the oil and from there
into the bearings. Metal chips from machining
operations and normal engine wear are often
present. Abrasives are sometimes left in
engine components after reconditioning,
especially when parts are not thoroughly
cleaned by using the proper cleaning
methods. Whatever the source, these foreign
objects often end up embedded in the soft
bearing material and are easily recognized.
Large particles will not embed in the bearing
but will score or gouge the bearing and
journal. The best prevention for this cause of
bearing failure is to clean all parts thoroughly
and keep everything spotlessly clean 
during engine assembly. Frequent and regular 
engine oil and filter changes are also
recommended.
5Lack of lubrication (or lubrication
breakdown) has a number of interrelated
causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),
overloading (which squeezes the oil from 
the bearing face) and oil leakage (from
excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump
or high engine speeds) all contribute to
lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages,
which usually are the result of misaligned oil
holes in a bearing shell, will also oil starve a
bearing and destroy it. When lack of
lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the
bearing material is wiped or extruded from the
steel backing of the bearing. Temperatures
may increase to the point where the steel
backing turns blue from overheating.
6Driving habits can have a definite effect on
bearing life. Full throttle, low speed operation
(labouring the engine) puts very high loads on
bearings, which tends to squeeze out the oil
film. These loads cause the bearings to flex,
which produces fine cracks in the bearing
face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing
material will loosen in pieces and tear away
from the steel backing. Short-distance driving
leads to corrosion of bearings because
insufficient engine heat is produced to drive
off the condensed water and corrosive gases.
These products collect in the engine oil,
forming acid and sludge. As the oil is carried
to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and
corrodes the bearing material.
7Incorrect bearing installation during engine
assembly will lead to bearing failure as well.
Tight fitting bearings leave insufficient bearing
running clearance and will result in oil
starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped
behind a bearing shell result in high spots on
the bearing which lead to failure. Do not touch
any shell’s bearing surface with your fingers
during reassembly as there is a risk of
scratching the delicate surface or of
depositing particles of dirt on it.
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures  2B•11
15.2  Typical bearing shell failures
14.8  Measuring crankshaft journal
diameter14.6  Using a penny to check crankshaft
journal condition
2B
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							16 Engine overhaul- 
reassembly sequence
1Before reassembly begins, ensure that all
new parts have been obtained and that all
necessary tools are available. Read through
the entire procedure to familiarise yourself
with the work involved and to ensure that all
items necessary for reassembly of the engine
are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and
materials, it will be necessary to obtain the
Rover sealant kit LVV 10002. Carefully read
the instructions supplied with the sealant kit
and take care not to allow the sealant to
contact the fingers, as it will bond skin.
2In order to save time and avoid problems,
engine reassembly can be carried out in the
following order:
a) Crankshaft.
b) Piston/connecting rod assemblies.
c) Oil pump.
d) Sump.
e) Flywheel.
f) Cylinder head.
g) Timing belt inner cover, tensioner and
sprockets, and timing belt.
h) Engine external components.
3At this stage, all engine components should
be absolutely clean and dry, with all faultsrepaired, and should be laid out (or in
individual containers) on a completely clean
work surface.17 Piston rings- refitting
3
1Refer to Section 13 for inspection details.
2Once all rings have been checked, they can
be installed. Ensure that each ring is refitted
only to its matched piston and bore.
3Install the new rings by fitting them over the
top of the piston, starting with the oil control
ring spring. Note that all rings must be fitted
with the word TOP uppermost (see
illustration).
4With all the rings in position, space the ring
gaps as shown (see illustration), noting that
the FRONT marking shown is usually in fact
an arrow mark on the piston crown and
indicates the timing belt end of the engine.
18 Crankshaft- refitting and
main bearing running
clearance check
4
Selection of bearing shells
1The main bearing running clearance is
controlled in production by selecting one of
three grades of bearing shell. The grades are
indicated by a colour-coding marked on the
edge of each shell which governs the shell’s
thickness, as follows:
a) Green - Thin.
b) Blue - Intermediate.
c) Red - Thick.2If shells of differing grades are to be fitted
to the same journal, the thicker shell must
always be fitted to the main bearing ladder
location. Bear this carefully in mind when
ordering replacement shells for Nos 2, 3 and 4
bearings.
3If the bearing shells are to be renewed, first
check and record the main bearing code
letters stamped on the right-hand front face of
the main bearing ladder (see illustration). The
letters are read with the ladder inverted, No 1
bearing’s code letter then being at the top and
the remainder following in order from the
engine’s timing belt end.
4Secondly, check and record the crankshaft
journal code numbers stamped on the
crankshaft’s right-hand web, No 1 journal’s
code number being the first. If the original
crankshaft is to be re-used, the size grade can
be checked by direct measurement, as
described in Section 14.
5Note that if the crankshaft is found to be
excessively worn, then it must be renewed
and the code numbers of the new component
must be used instead to select a new set of
bearing shells.
6Matching the codes noted to the following
table, select a new set of bearing shells.
Ladder code Crankshaft 
letter code number Shells
A 1 Blue, Blue
A 2 Red, Blue
A 3 Red, Red
B 1 Blue, Green
B 2 Blue, Blue
B 3 Red, Blue
C 1 Green, Green
C 2 Blue, Green
C 3 Blue, Blue
2B•12 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
18.3  Crankshaft main bearing size code locations
17.4  Piston ring end gap locations
A Top compression ring
B Second compression ring
C Oil control ring
D Oil control ring spring
17.3  Piston ring fitting details and top
surface markings
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							Main bearing running clearance
check
7Clean the backs of the bearing shells 
and the bearing locations in both the 
cylinder block/crankcase and the main
bearing ladder.
8Press the bearing shells into their locations,
ensuring that the tab on each shell engages in
the notch in the cylinder block/crankcase or
main bearing ladder location. Take care not to
touch any shell bearing surface with your
fingers.
9Press the bearing shells with the oil grooves
into the upper locations (in the cylinder
block/crankcase). Note the following points
(see illustration):
a) On all engines, grooved bearing shells are
fitted to Nos 2, 3 and 4 upper bearing
locations. Note the central locating tabs
of the grooved shells.
b) On early engines, grooved bearing shells
were fitted only to Nos 2 and 4 upper
bearing locations at the factory. On
reassembly of one of these units, a
grooved shell must be fitted at No 3
upper bearing location as well, instead of
the plain item originally used. Note,
however, that this will require a grooved
shell with an offset locating tab instead of
the central tab that is used on all other
grooved shells. See your Rover dealer for
details.
c) If bearing shells of differing grades are to
be fitted to the same journal, the thicker
shell must always be fitted to the main
bearing ladder location (see paragraph 1).
d) On all engines, if the original main bearing
shells are being re-used, these must be
refitted to their original locations in the
cylinder block/crankcase and main
bearing ladder.
10The main bearing running clearance
should be checked if there is any doubt about
the amount of crankshaft wear that has taken
place, if the crankshaft has been reground
and is to be refitted with non-Rover
undersized bearing shells, or if non-genuinebearing shells are to be fitted. If the original
crankshaft or a Rover replacement part is to
be installed, the shell selection procedure
given above will produce the correct
clearances and a further check will not be
necessary. If the clearance is to be checked, it
can be done in either of two ways.
11The first method (which will be difficult to
achieve without a range of internal
micrometers or internal/external expanding
calipers) is to refit the main bearing ladder to
the cylinder block/crankcase, with bearing
shells in place. With the ladder retaining bolts
tightened to the specified torque, refit the oil
rail and the cylinder head, then measure the
internal diameter of each assembled pair of
bearing shells. If the diameter of each
corresponding crankshaft journal is measured
and then subtracted from the bearing internal
diameter, the result will be the main bearing
running clearance.
12The second (and more accurate) method
is to use product known as Plastigauge. This
consists of a fine thread of perfectly round
plastic which is compressed between the
bearing shell and the journal. When the shell is
removed, the plastic is deformed and can be
measured with a special card gauge supplied
with the kit. The running clearance is
determined from this gauge. Plastigauge is
sometimes difficult to obtain but enquiries at
one of the larger specialist quality motor
factors should produce the name of a stockist
in your area. The procedure for using
Plastigauge is as follows.
13With the main bearing upper shells in
place, carefully lay the crankshaft in position.
Do not use any lubricant. The crankshaft
journals and bearing shells must be perfectly
clean and dry.
14Cut several lengths of the appropriate size
Plastigauge (they should be slightly shorter
than the width of the main bearings) and place
one length on each crankshaft journal axis
(see illustration).
15With the main bearing lower shells in
position, refit the main bearing ladder (see
below) and the oil rail, tightening the fastenersto the specified torque wrench settings. Take
care not to disturb the Plastigauge.
16Refit the cylinder head (using the original
gasket, to save over-compressing the new
one). Tighten the bolts to the specified torque
in the approved sequence. Do notrotate the
crankshaft at any time during this operation.
17Remove the cylinder head, the oil rail and
the main bearing ladder. Do not disturb the
Plastigauge or rotate the crankshaft.
18Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigauge on each journal to the scale
printed on the Plastigauge envelope to obtain
the main bearing running clearance (see
illustration).
19If the clearance is not as specified, the
bearing shells may be the wrong grade (or
excessively worn if the original shells are being
re-used). Before deciding that different grade
shells are needed, make sure that no dirt or oil
was trapped between the bearing shells and
the ladder or cylinder block/crankcase when
the clearance was measured. If the
Plastigauge was wider at one end than at the
other, the journal may be tapered.
20Carefully scrape away all traces of the
Plastigauge material from the crankshaft and
bearing shells using a fingernail or other
object which is unlikely to score the shells.
Final crankshaft refitting
21Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
cylinder block once more.
22Using a little grease, stick the
thrustwashers to each side of the No 3 main
bearing upper location. Ensure that the oilway
grooves on each thrustwasher face outwards.
23Place the bearing shells in their locations,
as described in paragraphs 7 to 9. If new
shells are being fitted, ensure that all traces of
the protective grease are cleaned off using
paraffin. Wipe dry the shells and connecting
rods with a lint-free cloth. Liberally lubricate
each bearing shell in the cylinder
block/crankcase, then lower the crankshaft
into position so that Nos 2 and 3 cylinder
crankpins are at TDC.
24Refit the piston/connecting rod
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures  2B•13
18.18  Using scale on Plastigauge envelope
to check (at widest point) width of crushed
Plastigauge18.14  Lay length of Plastigauge on journal
to be measured, parallel to crankshaft
centre-line18.9  Ensure grooved bearing shells
(arrowed) are installed exactly as
described in text - early engine shown
2B
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							assemblies (see illustrations). Leave No 1
and 4 cylinders at the TDC position
25Thoroughly degrease the mating surfaces
of the cylinder block/crankcase and the main
bearing ladder. Apply the special Rover
sealant to the mating  surface of the cylinder
block/crankcase as shown (see illustration).
Carefully follow the instructions supplied with
the sealant kit. If the Rover sealant is being
used, assembly must be completed as soon
as possible after the sealant has been applied
(maximum of 20 minutes). If another sealant is
being used, follow the manufacturer’s
instructions.26Lubricate the bearing shells, then refit the
main bearing ladder, ensuring that the shells
are not displaced and that the locating dowels
engage correctly. Working progressively, by a
turn at a time and in the sequence shown (see
illustration), tighten the ladder bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting. The
crankshaft cannot now be rotated.
27Thoroughly degrease the mating surfaces
of the oil rail and the main bearing ladder.
Apply the special Rover sealant to the oil rail
mating  surface as shown (see illustration).
Carefully follow the instructions supplied with
the sealant kit.28Refit the oil rail, tightening the nuts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
29Using a new sealing ring, refit the oil
pump pick-up/strainer pipe to the oil rail, then
refit the sump. Tighten all nuts and bolts to
the specified torque wrench settings.
30Fit a new crankshaft left-hand oil seal,
then refit the flywheel(see illustrations).
31Refit the oil pump and install a new
crankshaft right-hand oil seal(see
illustrations).
32Refit the cylinder head. Rotate the
crankshaft to the 90° BTDC position so that
the crankshaft sprocket timing marks align.
2B•14 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
18.31a  Use grease to stick new gasket in
place when refitting oil pump18.30c  Use fabricated tool to lock flywheel
while slackening or tightening flywheel
bolts18.30b  Always use new bolts when
refitting flywheel
18.30a  Fitting a new crankshaft left-hand
oil seal18.27  Apply thin bead of sealant to oil rail
mating surface as shown by heavy black
lines, then spread to an even film18.26  Crankshaft main bearing ladder bolt
tightening sequence
18.25  Apply thin bead of sealant to
cylinder block/crankcase mating surface
along paths shown by heavy black lines,
then spread to an even film18.24b  . . . care is required to hold
crankshaft steady while connecting rod
big-end cap bolts are tightened18.24a  If piston/connecting rod
assemblies are refitted before main
bearing ladder . . .
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							33Refit the dipstick tube to the cylinder
block/crankcase, tightening the bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
34Refit the timing belt inner cover, the
sprocket(s) and tensioner, and the belt itself.
35Using a torque wrench, check that the
amount of force required to rotate the
crankshaft does not exceed 31 Nm. If the
effort required is greater than this, the engine
must be dismantled again to trace and rectify
the cause. This value takes into account the
increased friction of a new engine and is
much higher than the actual pressure required
to rotate a run-in engine, so do not make
allowances for tight components.
19 Piston/connecting rod
assembly- refitting and big-end
bearing running clearance check
4
Selection of bearing shells
1The big-end bearing running clearance is
controlled in production by selecting one of
three grades of bearing shell. The grades are
indicated by a colour-coding marked on the
edge of each shell which governs the shell’s
thickness, as follows:
a) Yellow - Thin.
b) Blue - Intermediate.
c) Red - Thick.
2If shells of differing grades are to be fitted
to the same journal, the thicker shell must
always be fitted to the big-end bearing cap
location.
3If the bearing shells are to be renewed, first
check and record the codes stamped on the
front face of each big-end bearing cap and
connecting rod. The number stamped on the
big-end bearing cap is the bearing size code,
the number stamped on the connecting rod 
is the piston/rod assembly’s cylinder number
and the letter stamped on the connecting rod
is the weight code (see illustration).
4Secondly, check and record the
crankpin/big-end journal code letters
stamped on the crankshaft’s left-hand web
(see illustration), No 1 journal’s code letterbeing the first. If the original crankshaft is to
be re-used, the code letter can be checked by
direct measurement.
5If the crankshaft is found to be excessively
worn, then it must be renewed and the code
letters of the new component must be used
instead to select a new set of bearing shells.
6Matching the codes noted to the following
table, select a new set of bearing shells:
Cap code Crankshaft
number code letter Shells
5 A Blue, Blue
5 B Red, Blue
5 C Red, Red
6 A Blue, Yellow
6 B Blue, Blue
6 C Red, Blue
7 A Yellow, Yellow
7 B Blue, Yellow
7 C Blue, Blue
Big-end bearing running
clearance check
7The big-end bearing running clearance
should be checked if there is any doubt about
the amount of crankshaft wear that has taken
place, if the crankshaft has been reground
and is to be refitted with non-Rover
undersized bearing shells, or if non-genuine
bearing shells are to be fitted. If the original
crankshaft or a Rover replacement part is to
be installed, the shell selection procedure
given above will produce the correct
clearances and a further check will not be
necessary. If the clearance is to be checked, it
can be done in either of two ways.
8The first method is to refit the big-end
bearing cap to the connecting rod, with
bearing shells in place. With the cap retaining
bolts tightened to the specified torque, use an
internal micrometer or vernier caliper to
measure the internal diameter of each
assembled pair of bearing shells. If the
diameter of each corresponding crankshaft
journal is measured and then subtracted from
the bearing internal diameter, the result will be
the big-end bearing running clearance.
9The second method is to use Plastigauge.
Place a strand of Plastigauge on each(cleaned) crankpin journal and refit the (clean)
piston/connecting rod assemblies, shells and
big-end bearing caps, tightening the bolts to
the specified torque wrench settings. Take
care not to disturb the Plastigauge. Dismantle
the assemblies without rotating the crankshaft
and use the scale printed on the Plastigauge
envelope to obtain the big-end bearing
running clearance. On completion of the
measurement, carefully scrape off all traces of
Plastigauge from the journal and shells using
a fingernail or other object which will not
score the components.
Final piston/connecting rod
assembly refitting
10Note that the following procedure
assumes that the cylinder liners have been
refitted to the cylinder block/crankcase and
that the crankshaft and main bearing ladder
are in place. It is of course possible to refit the
piston/connecting rod assemblies to the
cylinder bores, to refit the crankshaft and to
reassemble the piston/connecting rods on the
crankshaft before refitting the main bearing
ladder (see Section 18).
11Clean the backs of the bearing shells and
the bearing recesses in both the connecting
rod and the big-end bearing cap. If new shells
are being fitted, ensure that all traces of the
protective grease are cleaned off using
paraffin. Wipe dry the shells and connecting
rods with a lint-free cloth.
12Press the bearing shells into their
locations, ensuring that the tab on each shell
engages in the notch in the connecting rod or
big-end bearing cap and taking care not to
touch any shell’s bearing surface with your
fingers. Note the following points:
a) If bearing shells of differing grades are to
be fitted to the same journal, the 
thicker shell must always be fitted to the
big-end bearing cap location (see
paragraph 1).
b) On all engines, if the original big-end
bearing shells are being re-used, these
must be refitted to their original locations
in the connecting rod and big-end bearing
cap.
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures  2B•15
19.4  Crankpin (big-end) journal size code
location
19.3  Big-end bearing size code number (A
- on cap) piston/connecting rod assembly
cylinder number (B) and connecting rod
weight code letter (C)18.31b  Fitting a new crankshaft right-hand
oil seal
2B
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							13Lubricate the cylinder bores, the pistons
and piston rings, then lay out each
piston/connecting rod assembly in its
respective position.
14Starting with assembly No 1, make sure
that the piston rings are still correctly spaced,
then clamp them in position with a piston ring
compressor.
15Insert the piston/connecting rod assembly
into the top of liner No 1, ensuring that the
arrow (or FRONT marking) on the piston
crown faces the timing belt end of the engine.
Note that the stamped marks on the
connecting rod and big-end bearing cap
should face the front (alternator bracket side)
of the engine. Using a block of wood or
hammer handle against the piston crown, tap
the assembly into the liner until the piston
crown is flush with the top of the liner (see
illustrations).
16Ensure that the bearing shell is still
correctly installed. Taking care not to mark the
liner bores, liberally lubricate the crankpin andboth bearing shells, then pull the
piston/connecting rod assembly down the
bore and onto the crankpin. Noting that the
faces with the stamped marks must match
(which means that the bearing shell locating
tabs abut each other), refit the big-end
bearing cap, tightening the bolts finger-tight
at first.
17Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts
evenly to the (first stage) torque wrench
setting specified, then use an angular torque
gauge to tighten the bolts evenly through the
(second stage) angle specified (see
illustrations).
18Repeat the procedure for the remaining
three piston/connecting rod assemblies, but
do not attempt to rotate the crankshaft.
19Thoroughly degrease the mating surfaces
of the oil rail and the main bearing ladder.
Apply the special Rover sealant to the oil rail
mating surface (see illustration 18.27).
Carefully follow the instructions supplied with
the sealant kit.20Refit the oil rail, tightening the nuts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
21Refit the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe
and sump.
22Refit the cylinder head. Rotate the
crankshaft to the 90° BTDC position so that
the crankshaft sprocket timing marks align.
23Refit the dipstick tube to the cylinder
block/crankcase, tightening the bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
24Refit the hydraulic tappets and
camshaft(s).
25Refit the timing belt inner cover,
sprocket(s) and tensioner, and the belt itself.
26Using a torque wrench, check that the
amount of force required to rotate the crankshaft
does not exceed 31 Nm. If the effort required is
greater than this, the engine must be dismantled
again to trace and rectify the cause. This value
takes into account the increased friction of a
new engine and is much higher than the actual
pressure required to rotate a run-in engine, so
do not make allowances for tight components.
2B•16 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
19.17b  . . . then use angular torque gauge to tighten bolts through
angle specified (second stage)19.17a  Tighten connecting rod big-end bearing cap bolts to
specified torque wrench setting (first stage) . . .
18.15b  Using piston ring compressor to clamp piston rings19.15a  Arrow or FRONT marking (arrowed) on piston crown must
point to timing belt end of engine
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							20 Engine- initial start-up 
after overhaul
2
1With the engine refitted in the vehicle,
double-check the engine oil and coolant
levels. Make a final check that everything has
been reconnected and that there are no tools
or rags left in the engine compartment.
2With the spark plugs removed and the
ignition system disabled by earthing the ignition
HT coil distributor spark plug (HT) lead with a
jumper lead, turn the engine over on the starter
until the oil pressure warning lamp goes out.3Refit the spark plugs and connect all the
spark plug (HT) leads.
4Start the engine, noting that this may take a
little longer than usual due to the fuel system
components being empty.
5While the engine is idling, check for fuel,
coolant and oil leaks. Do not be alarmed if
there are some odd smells and smoke from
parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits.
If the hydraulic tappets have been disturbed,
some valve gear noise may be heard at first;
this should disappear as the oil circulates fully
around the engine and normal pressure is
restored in the tappets.
6Keep the engine idling until hot coolant isfelt circulating through the top hose, check
the ignition timing and idle speed and mixture
(as appropriate), then switch it off.
7After a few minutes, recheck the oil and
coolant levels and top up as necessary.
8If they were tightened as described, there is
no need to re-tighten the cylinder head bolts
once the engine has first run after reassembly.
9If new pistons, rings or crankshaft bearings
have been fitted, the engine must be run-in for
the first 500 miles (800 km). Do not operate
the engine at full throttle or allow it to labour in
any gear during this period. It is
recommended that the oil and filter be
changed at the end of this period.
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures  2B•17
2B
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