Land Rover Rover 214 Repair 1689 02b Rover Manual

							2B
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
Chapter 2 Part B  Engine removal 
and general overhaul procedures
Crankshaft - inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running clearance check  . . 18
Crankshaft - removal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Cylinder block/crankcase, bearing ladder and oil rail - cleaning 
and inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Cylinder head - dismantling  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cylinder head - reassembly  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Cylinder head and valves - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Cylinder liners - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Engine - initial start-up after overhaul  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Engine overhaul - dismantling sequence  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Engine overhaul - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Engine/gearbox - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Engine/gearbox removal - methods and precautions  . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Main and big-end bearings - inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Piston rings - refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Piston/connecting rod assembly - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Piston/connecting rod assembly - refitting and big-end bearing 
running clearance check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Piston/connecting rod assembly - removal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
2B•1
Contents
Specifications
Refer to Part A of this Chapter
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 General information
Included in this part of the Chapter are
details of removing the engine/gearbox unit
from the vehicle and general overhaul
procedures for the cylinder head, cylinder
block/crankcase and all other engine internal
components.
The information given ranges from advice
concerning preparation for an overhaul and
the purchase of replacement parts to detailed
step-by-step procedures covering removal,
inspection, renovation and refitting of engine
internal components.
After Section 5, all instructions are based
on the assumption that the engine has been
removed from the vehicle. For information
concerning in-car engine repair, as well as theremoval and refitting of those external
components necessary for full overhaul, refer
to Part A of this Chapter and to Section 5.
Ignore any preliminary dismantling operations
described in Part A that are no longer relevant
once the engine has been removed from the
vehicle.
2 Engine overhaul- 
general information
It is not always easy to determine when, or
if, an engine should be completely
overhauled, as a number of factors must be
considered.
High mileage is not necessarily an
indication that an overhaul is needed, while
low mileage does not preclude the need for an
overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probablythe most important consideration. An engine
which has had regular and frequent oil and
filter changes, as well as other required
maintenance, should give many thousands of
miles of reliable service. Conversely, a
neglected engine may require an overhaul
very early in its life. If a complete service does
not remedy any problems, major mechanical
work is the only solution.
Excessive oil consumption is an indication
that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve
guides are in need of attention. Make sure
that oil leaks are not responsible before
deciding that the rings and/or guides are
worn. Perform a compression test to
determine the likely cause of the problem.
Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted in
place of the oil pressure switch and compare
it with that specified. If it is extremely low, the
main and big-end bearings and/or the oil
pump are probably worn out. 
						

							Loss of power, rough running, knocking or
metallic engine noises, excessive valve gear
noise and high fuel consumption may also
point to the need for an overhaul, especially if
they are all present at the same time.
An engine overhaul involves restoring all
internal parts to the specification of a new
engine. During an overhaul, the cylinder liners,
the pistons and the piston rings are renewed.
New main and big-end bearings are generally
fitted and, if necessary, the crankshaft may be
renewed to restore the journals. The valves
are serviced as well, since they are usually in
less than perfect condition at this point. While
the engine is being overhauled, other
components, such as the distributor, starter
and alternator, can be overhauled as well. The
end result should be an as-new engine that
will give many trouble-free miles.
Critical cooling system components such
as the hoses, thermostat and coolant pump
should be renewed when an engine is
overhauled. The radiator should be checked
carefully to ensure that it is not clogged 
or leaking. Also it is a good idea to renew 
the oil pump whenever the engine is
overhauled.
Before beginning the engine overhaul, read
through the entire procedure to familiarize
yourself with the scope and requirements of
the job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult if
you follow carefully all of the instructions,
have the necessary tools and equipment and
pay close attention to all specifications.
However, it can be time-consuming. Plan on
the vehicle being off the road for a minimum
of two weeks, especially if parts must be
taken to an engineering works for repair or
reconditioning. Check on the availability of
parts and make sure that any necessary
special tools and equipment are obtained in
advance. Most work can be done with typical
hand tools, although a number of precision
measuring tools are required for inspecting
parts to determine if they must be renewed.
Often the engineering works will handle the
inspection of parts and offer advice
concerning reconditioning and renewal.
Always wait until the engine has been
completely dismantled and all components,
especially the cylinder block/crankcase, the
cylinder liners and the crankshaft have been
inspected before deciding what service and
repair operations must be performed by an
engineering works. Since the condition of
these components will be the major factor to
consider when determining whether to
overhaul the original engine or buy a
reconditioned unit, do not purchase parts or
have overhaul work done on other
components until they have been thoroughly
inspected. As a general rule, time is the
primary cost of an overhaul, so it does not pay
to fit worn or substandard parts.
As a final note, to ensure maximum life and
minimum trouble from a reconditioned engine,
everything must be assembled with care in a
spotlessly clean environment.3 Engine/gearbox removal-
methods and precautions
If you have decided that the engine must be
removed for overhaul or major repair 
work, several preliminary steps should be
taken.
Locating a suitable place to work is
extremely important. Adequate work space,
along with storage space for the vehicle, will
be needed. If a shop or garage is not
available, at the very least a flat, level, clean
work surface is required.
Cleaning the engine compartment and
engine/gearbox before beginning the removal
procedure will help keep things clean and
organised.
An engine hoist or A-frame will also be
necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated
in excess of the combined weight of the
engine and gearbox (290 lb/130 kg
approximately). Safety is of primary
importance, considering the potential hazards
involved in lifting the engine/gearbox unit out
of the vehicle.
If the engine/gearbox unit is being removed
by a novice, a helper should be available.
Advice and aid from someone more
experienced would also be helpful. There are
many instances when one person cannot
simultaneously perform all of the operations
required when lifting the unit out of the
vehicle.
Plan the operation ahead of time. Before
starting work, arrange for the hire of or obtain
all of the tools and equipment you will need.
Some of the equipment necessary to perform
engine/gearbox removal and installation
safely and with relative ease are (in addition to
an engine hoist) a heavy duty trolley jack,
complete sets of spanners and sockets as
described at the front of this Manual, 
wooden blocks and plenty of rags and
cleaning solvent for mopping up spilled oil,
coolant and fuel. If the hoist must be hired,
make sure that you arrange for it in advance
and perform all of the operations possible
without it beforehand. This will save you
money and time.
Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for
quite a while. An engineering works will be
required to perform some of the work which
the do-it-yourselfer cannot accomplish
without special equipment. These places
often have a busy schedule, so it would 
be a good idea to consult them before
removing the engine in order to accurately
estimate the amount of time required to
rebuild or repair components that may need
work.
Always be extremely careful when removing
and refitting the engine/gearbox unit. Serious
injury can result from careless actions. Plan
ahead, take your time and a job of this nature,
although major, can be accomplished
successfully.
4 Engine/gearbox- 
removal and refitting
3
Note:The engine can be removed from the
vehicle only as a complete unit with the gearbox.
Removal
1Park the vehicle on firm, level ground then
remove the bonnet.
2If the engine is to be dismantled, drain the
oil and remove the oil filter, then clean and
refit the drain plug, tightening it to its specified
torque setting.
3Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Remove both front roadwheels.
4From underneath the front of the vehicle,
slacken and remove the three bolts securing
the bumper flange to the body. Remove the
seven bolts securing the front undercover
panel to the body and remove the panel.
5Drain the gearbox oil, then clean and refit
the drain plug, tightening it to its specified
torque setting.
6Drain the cooling system.
7Remove the battery, followed by the battery
tray and support bracket.
8Remove the complete air cleaner assembly,
including the intake duct and mounting
bracket, intake hose and resonator.
9Disconnect the ignition coil HT lead from
the distributor cap.
10Undo the nut and disconnect the battery
positive lead from the main starter motor
solenoid terminal, then carefully disconnect
the spade connector from the solenoid.
11Undo the two bolts securing the engine
compartment fusebox to the body, then
disconnect the two engine wiring harness
block connectors from the underside of the
fusebox. Undo the bolt securing the wiring
harness earth lead to the bonnet platform, then
disconnect the LT wiring connector from the
ignition coil. On fuel-injected engines, also
disconnect the wiring connector and vacuum
pipe from the engine management ECU. Free
the engine wiring harness from any relevant
clips or ties so that it is free to be removed with
the engine/gearbox unit (see illustrations).
2B•2 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
4.11a  Disconnecting engine harness
wiring connectors from underside of
fusebox . . .
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							12Trace the clutch cable back from the
clutch release lever to the bulkhead and
remove the C-clip which retains the outer
cable spring in position. Unhook the 
inner cable from the release lever and free the
outer cable from its mounting bracket and
position it clear of the gearbox.
13From underneath the vehicle, pull out the
rubber retaining pin which secures the lower
end of the speedometer cable to the gearbox
housing. Withdraw the cable from the
speedometer drive and remove the O-rings
from the cable lower end. Renew the O-rings,
regardless of their condition.
14In the absence of the special gearchange
linkage balljoint separator (Rover service tool
number 18G 1592), use a suitable flat-bladed
screwdriver to carefully lever the link rod
balljoints off the gearbox upper and lower
selector levers, taking care not to damage the
balljoint gaiters.
15Unscrew the reverse interlock cable nut
from the top of the gearbox housing. In the
absence of the special spanner (Rover service
tool number 18G 1591), use a close-fitting
spanner to unscrew the plastic nut, noting
that it is easily damaged. Plug the gearbox
orifice to prevent the entry of dirt.
16Disconnect the coolant hose from the
bottom of the expansion tank, the expansion
tank hose from the inlet manifold union, both
heater hoses from the heater matrix unions
and the radiator top hose from the coolant
outlet elbow. Either remove the radiator
bottom hose or secure it so that it will not
hinder engine/gearbox removal.
17Slacken and remove the union bolt which
secures the vacuum servo unit vacuum hose
to the inlet manifold. Discard the sealing
washers as they must be renewed whenever
they are disturbed.
18On carburettor engines, disconnect the
feed hose from the fuel pump, then
disconnect the accelerator and choke cables
from the carburettor.
19On fuel-injected engines, depressurise the
fuel system and disconnect the fuel feed and
return hoses from the throttle body/fuel rail.
Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle housing.20Remove the expansion tank mounting
bolts and position the tank clear of the engine
unit.
21Remove the alternator.
22On models equipped with power-assisted
steering, remove the power steering pump.
23On models equipped with air
conditioning, slacken and remove the two
compressor heatshield retaining bolts then
remove the heatshield and disconnect the
compressor wiring connector. Undo the four
bolts securing the compressor to the
mounting bracket and the single bolt securing
the air conditioning pipe to the mounting
bracket. Position the compressor clear of the
engine unit. Secure it to the body to avoid
placing any strain on the air conditioning
pipes and hoses.
24Disconnect the exhaust system front pipe
from the manifold and, where necessary,
disconnect the lambda sensor wiring
connector.
25Slacken and remove the bolt and washer
securing the anti-roll bar connecting link to
the left-hand lower suspension arm, then the
two bolts securing the tie bar to the lower
suspension arm.
26Extract the split pins and undo the nuts
securing the steering gear track rod end
balljoint and the left-hand lower suspension
arm balljoint to the swivel hub. Remove the
nuts and release the balljoint tapered shanks
using a universal balljoint separator.27Insert a suitable flat bar in between the
left-hand inner constant velocity joint and
gearbox housing, then carefully lever the joint
out of position, whilst taking great care not to
damage the gearbox housing.
28Withdraw the left-hand inner constant
velocity joint from the gearbox and support
the driveshaft to avoid damaging the constant
velocity joints or gaiters. Repeat the
operations described in paragraphs 25 to 28
for the right-hand driveshaft.
29On K8 engines, the cylinder head has a
tapped hole provided at the right-hand rear
end (above the dipstick tube) and at the left-
hand front end (behind the spark plug lead
clips). On K16 engine cylinder heads, the
right-hand end hole is in the same place but at
the left-hand end, the air intake duct support
bracket mounting points must be used.
Attach lifting brackets to the engine at these
points (see illustrations). Take the weight of
the engine/gearbox unit on the engine hoist.
30From underneath the vehicle, unscrew the
two bolts securing the rear engine/gearbox
mounting bracket to the gearbox, then
slacken the connecting link-to-body through-
bolt and pivot the mounting away from the
gearbox.
31Slacken and remove the two bolts
securing the left-hand gearbox bracket to the
mounting. Lower the gearbox slightly then
undo the four bolts securing the mounting to
the body and manoeuvre the mounting out of
position.
32Raise the gearbox again then slacken and
remove the right-hand engine/gearbox
mounting through-bolt and nut. Unscrew the
two nuts securing the mounting to the engine
bracket and remove it, noting the rubber
washers which are fitted on each side of the
bracket.
33Make a final check that all components
have been removed or disconnected that will
prevent removal of the engine/gearbox unit
from the vehicle and ensure that components
such as the gearchange linkage link rods are
secured so that they cannot be damaged on
removal.
34Lift the engine/gearbox unit out of the
vehicle, ensuring that nothing is trapped or
damaged. Once the unit is high enough, lift it
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures  2B•3
4.11c  Disconnecting vacuum pipe from
engine management ECU - fuel-injected
engines
4.29b  . . . and left-hand engine lifting
bracket - K16 engine4.29a  Right-hand engine lifting bracket . . .
4.11b  . . . and ignition coil LT wiring
connector
2B
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							out over the front of the body and lower the
unit to the ground (see illustration).
35To separate the engine and gearbox, first
remove the starter motor.
36Unbolt the flywheel front, lower and rear
cover plates, then unscrew the four bolts
securing the gearbox to the engine and gently
prise the gearbox off the two locating dowels
(at the front and rear of the main bearing
ladder). Move the gearbox squarely away
from the engine, ensuring that the clutch
components are not damaged.
37If the engine is to be overhauled, remove
the clutch.
Refitting
38Refitting is the reverse of removal,
following where necessary the instructions
given in the other Chapters of this Manual.
Note the following additional points:
a) Overhaul and lubricate the clutch
components before refitting.
b) When the gearbox, starter motor and
flywheel cover plates have been refitted,
lift the engine/gearbox unit and lower it
into the engine compartment so that it is
slightly tilted (gearbox down). Engage
both driveshafts then return the unit to the
horizontal and refit the engine/gearbox
mountings.
c) Remove the lifting brackets and refit any
components removed to enable them to
be fitted.
d) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque wrench settings.
e) Adjust the choke and/or accelerator
cable(s).
f) Refill the engine and gearbox with oil.
g) Refill the cooling system.
5 Engine overhaul- 
dismantling sequence
Note:When removing external components
from the engine, pay close attention to details
that may be helpful or important during
refitting. Note the fitted position of gaskets,
seals, spacers, pins, washers, bolts and other
small items.
1It is much easier to work on the engine if it
is mounted on a portable engine stand. These
stands can often be hired from a tool hire
shop. Before the engine is mounted on a
stand, the flywheel should be removed so that
the stand bolts can be tightened into the end
of the cylinder block/crankcase (not the main
bearing ladder).
2If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a
sturdy workbench or on the floor. Be extra
careful not to tip or drop the engine when
working without a stand.
3If you are going to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all external components must be
removed for transference to the replacement
engine (just as if you are doing a completeengine overhaul yourself). These components
include the following:
a) Alternator mounting brackets.
b) Power steering pump and air conditioning
compressor brackets (where fitted).
c) Distributor, HT leads and spark plugs.
d) Thermostat and housing, coolant rail,
coolant outlet elbow.
e) Dipstick tube.
f) Carburettor/fuel injection system
components.
g) All electrical switches and sensors.
h) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.
i) Oil filter.
j) Fuel pump.
k) Engine mountings.
l) Flywheel.
4If you are obtaining a short motor (which
consists of the engine cylinder block/crankcase
and main bearing ladder, crankshaft, pistons
and connecting rods all assembled), then the
cylinder head, sump, oil pump, and timing belt
will have to be removed also.
5If you are planning a complete overhaul, the
engine can be dismantled and the internal
components removed in the following order:
a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.
b) Timing belt, sprockets, tensioner and
timing belt inner cover.
c) Cylinder head.
d) Flywheel.
e) Sump.
f) Oil pump.
g) Piston/connecting rod assemblies.
h) Crankshaft.6Before beginning the dismantling and
overhaul procedures, make sure that you have
all of the correct tools necessary. Refer to the
introductory pages at the beginning of this
Manual for further information.
6 Cylinder head- dismantling
3
Note:New and reconditioned cylinder heads
are available from the manufacturer and from
engine overhaul specialists. Due to the fact
that some specialist tools are required for
dismantling and inspection, and new
components may not be readily available, it
may be more practical and economical for the
home mechanic to purchase a reconditioned
head rather than dismantle, inspect and
recondition the original.
1Remove the camshaft(s) and hydraulic
tappets.
2Remove the cylinder head.
3Using a valve spring compressor, compress
each valve spring in turn until the split collets
can be removed. Release the compressor and
lift off the spring retainer and spring, then use
a pair of pliers to extract the spring bottom
seat/stem seal (see illustrations).
4Withdraw the valve through the combustion
chamber.
5It is essential that each valve is stored
together with its collets, retainer and spring,
and that all valves are kept in their correct
sequence, unless they are so badly worn that
they are to be renewed. If they are going to be
kept and used again, place each valve
assembly in a labelled polythene bag or
2B•4 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
6.3b  Extracting a valve spring bottom
seat/stem seal6.3a  Using a valve spring compressor to
release split collets
4.34  Lifting out engine/gearbox unit
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
If, when the valve spring
compressor is screwed
down, the spring retainer
refuses to free and expose
the split collets, gently tap the top of
the tool directly over the retainer with a
light hammer. This will free the
retainer. 
						

							similar small container (see illustration). Note
that No 1 valve is nearest to the timing belt
end of the engine.
7 Cylinder head and valves-
cleaning and inspection
4
Note:If the engine has been severely
overheated, it is best to assume that the
cylinder head is warped and to check carefully
for signs of this.
Note:Be sure to perform all the following
inspection procedures before concluding that
the services of a machine shop or engine
overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of
all items that require attention.
1Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head and
valve components, followed by a detailed
inspection, will enable you to decide how
much valve service work must be carried out
during the engine overhaul.
Cleaning
2Scrape away all traces of old gasket
material and sealing compound from the
cylinder head.
3Scrape away all carbon from the
combustion chambers and ports, then wash
the cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or a
suitable solvent.
4Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that
may have formed on the valves, then use a
power-operated wire brush to remove
deposits from the valve heads and stems.
Inspection
Cylinder head
5Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,
evidence of coolant leakage and other
damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder
head should be obtained.
6Use a straight-edge and feeler gauge blade
to check that the cylinder head surface is not
distorted (see illustrations). If it is, it may be
possible to resurface it, provided that the
specified reface limit is not exceeded in so
doing, or that the cylinder head is not reduced
to less than the specified height.
7Examine the valve seats in each of the
combustion chambers. If they are severelypitted, cracked or burned, then they will need
to be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul
specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this
can be removed by grinding-in the valve
heads and seats with fine valve-grinding
compound as described below. To check for
excessive wear, refit each valve and measure
the installed height of the stem tip above the
cylinder head upper surface (see illustration).
If the measurement is above the specified
limit, repeat the test using a new valve. If the
measurement is still excessive, renew the seat
insert.
8If the valve guides are worn, indicated by a
side to side motion of the valve, new guides
must be fitted. Measure the diameter of the
existing valve stems (see below) and the bore
of the guides, then calculate the clearance
and compare the result with the specified
value. If the clearance is excessive, renew the
valves or guides as necessary.
9Valve guide renewal is best carried out by
an engine overhaul specialist. If the work is to
be carried out at home, then use a stepped,
double-diameter drift to drive out the worn
guide towards the combustion chamber. On
fitting the new guide, place it first in a deep-
freeze for one hour, then drive it into the
cylinder head bore from the camshaft side
until it projects the specified amount above
the spring bottom seat/stem seal surface.10If the valve seats are to be re-cut, this
must be done only after the guides have been
renewed.
Valves
11Examine the head of each valve for
pitting, burning, cracks and general wear,
then check the valve stem for scoring and
wear ridges. Rotate the valve and check for
any obvious indication that it is bent. Look for
pits and excessive wear on the tip of each
valve stem. Renew any valve that shows any
such signs of wear or damage.
12If the valve appears satisfactory at this
stage, measure the valve stem diameter at
several points by using a micrometer (see
illustration). Any significant difference in the
readings obtained indicates wear of the valve
stem. Should any of these conditions be
apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.
13If the valves are in satisfactory condition
they should be ground (lapped) into their
respective seats to ensure a smooth gas-tight
seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if it has
been re-cut, fine grinding compound only
should be used to produce the required finish.
Coarse valve-grinding compound should not
be used unless a seat is badly burned or
deeply pitted. If this is the case, the cylinder
head and valves should be inspected by an
expert to decide whether seat re-cutting or
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures  2B•5
7.6a  Checking a cylinder head gasket
surface for warpage6.5  Use a labelled plastic bag to keep
together and identify valve components
7.12  Measuring valve stem diameter7.7  Check valve seat wear by measuring
valve stem installed height (A)
7.6b  Check cylinder head gasket surface
for warpage along paths shown
A  K16 engine      B  K8 engine
2B
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							even the renewal of the valve or seat insert is
required.
14Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside down on a
bench.
15Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade of)
valve-grinding compound on the seat face and
press a suction grinding tool onto the valve
head. With a semi-rotary action, grind the valve
head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to
redistribute the grinding compound (see
illustration). A light spring placed under the
valve head will greatly ease this operation.
16If coarse grinding compound is being
used, work only until a dull, matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, then wipe off the used compound and
repeat the process with fine compound. When
a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt
finish is produced on both the valve and seat,
the grinding operation is complete. Do not
grind in the valves any further than absolutely
necessary, or the seat will be prematurely
sunk into the cylinder head.
17To check that the seat has not been over-
ground, measure the valve stem installed
height, as described in paragraph 7.
18When all the valves have been ground-in,
carefully wash off all traces of grinding
compound using paraffin or a suitable solvent.
Valve components
19Examine the valve springs for signs ofdamage and discoloration and also measure
their free length using vernier calipers or by
comparing each existing spring with a new
component (see illustration).
20Stand each spring on a flat surface and
check it for squareness. If any of the springs
are damaged, distorted or have lost their
tension, then obtain a complete new set of
springs.
21Check the hydraulic tappets as described
in Part A of this Chapter.
8 Cylinder head- reassembly
4
1Lubricate the valve stems with clean engine
oil and insert each valve into its original
location. If new valves are being fitted, insert
them into the locations to which they have
been ground.
2Working on the first valve, dip the spring
bottom seat/stem seal in clean engine oil then
carefully locate it over the valve and onto the
guide. Take care not to damage the seal as it
is passed over the valve stem. Use a suitable
socket or metal tube to press the seal firmly
onto the guide (see illustration).
3Locate the spring on the seat, followed by
the spring retainer.
4Compress the valve spring and locate the
split collets in the recess in the valve stem.Use a little grease to hold the collets in place.
Release the compressor, then repeat the
procedure on the remaining valves.
5With all the valves installed, place the
cylinder head flat on the bench and, using a
hammer and interposed block of wood, tap
the end of each valve stem to settle the
components.
6Refit the hydraulic tappets and camshaft(s)
as described in Part A of this Chapter.
9 Piston/connecting rod
assembly- removal
4
Note:Due to the design of the engine, it will
become very difficult, almost impossible, to
turn the crankshaft once the cylinder head
bolts have been slackened. The manufacturer
accordingly states that the crankshaft will be
‘tight’ and should not be rotated more than
absolutely necessary once the head has been
removed. If the crankshaft cannot be rotated,
then it must be removed for overhaul work to
proceed. With this in mind, during any
servicing or overhaul work the crankshaft must
always be rotated to the desired position
before the bolts are disturbed.
Removal - without removing
crankshaft
1Remove the timing belt, the camshaft
sprocket(s) and tensioner, and the timing belt
inner cover.
2Remove the camshaft(s) and hydraulic
tappets, being careful to store the hydraulic
tappets correctly.
3If the flywheel has been removed,
temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley and
apply a spanner to the bolt to rotate the
crankshaft.
4Rotate the crankshaft until Nos 1 and 4
cylinder pistons are at the top of their stroke.
5Remove the cylinder head. The crankshaft
cannot now be rotated.
6Slacken and remove the two dipstick tube
retaining bolts and remove the tube from the
cylinder block/crankcase (see illustrations).
9.6a  Dipstick tube mounting bolts
(arrowed)
2B•6 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
8.2  Using a socket to install valve stem
seal
7.19  Measuring valve spring free length7.15  Grinding-in a valve seat
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							7Remove the sump and unbolt the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe from the oil rail. Discard
the sealing ring (see illustration).
8Unscrew the two retaining nuts and remove
the oil rail (see illustration).
9Using a hammer and centre punch, paint or
similar, mark each connecting rod big-end
bearing cap with its respective cylinder
number on the flat, machined surface
provided. If the engine has been dismantled
before, note carefully any identifying marks
made previously (see illustration). Note that
No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of the
engine.
10Unscrew and remove the big-end bearing
cap bolts and withdraw the cap, complete
with bearing shell, from the connecting rod. If
only the bearing shells are being attended to,
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures  2B•7
9.7  Removing oil pump pick-up/strainer
pipe from oil rail - renew O-ring (arrowed)
9.6b  Engine bottom end components
1 Oil pump
2 Gasket
3 Bolt
4 Bolt
5 Oil seal
6 Engine oil level dipstick
7 Dipstick tube
8 Bolt
9 Bolt
10 Gasket
11 Coolant pump
12 O-ring
13 Pillar bolt
14 Bolt
15 Dowel pin
16 O-ring
17 Thermostat housing
18 Gasket
19 Thermostat
20 Thermostat housing
21 Bolt
22 Coolant hose
23 Hose clip
24 Coolant rail
25 Screw
26 Cooling system bleed
screw27 Sealing washer
28 Liner
29 O-rings
30 Cylinder block/crankcase
31 Dowel
32 Top compression ring
33 Second compression 
ring
34 Oil control ring
35 Piston
36 Gudgeon pin *
37 Connecting rod
38 Big-end bearing shell
39 Big-end bearing cap
40 Big-end bearing cap bolt
41 Crankshaft
42 Crankshaft thrustwasher
43 Crankshaft main bearing
shell
44 Dowel
45 Oil seal
46 Flywheel (with reluctor
ring)
47 Flywheel bolt
48 Main bearing ladder *
49 Bolt
50 Dowel51 Stud
52 Oil rail
53 Bolt
54 Nut
55 O-ring
56 Oil pump pick-up/
strainer pipe
57 Bolt
58 Sump
59 Gasket
60 Bolt
61 Engine oil drain plug
62 Sealing washer
63 Oil filter
64 Oil filter adaptor
65 Bolt
66 Gasket
67 Oil pressure switch
68 Blanking plate -
carburettor engines
69 Screw
* Note: Main bearing ladder is
supplied only with cylinder
block/crankcase assembly.
Gudgeon pin is supplied only
with piston assembly
9.8  Removing oil rail to reach big-end
bearings
9.9  Mark big-end bearing caps before
removal - No 4 cylinder cap shown
2B
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							push the connecting rod up and off the
crankpin, ensuring that the connecting rod
big-ends do not mark the cylinder bore walls,
then remove the upper bearing shell. Keep the
cap, bolts and (if they are to be refitted) the
bearing shells together in their correct
sequence.
11With Nos 2 and 3 cylinder big-ends
disconnected, repeat the procedure
(exercising great care to prevent damage to
any of the components) to remove Nos 1 and
4 cylinder bearing caps.
12Remove the ridge of carbon from the top
of each cylinder bore. Push each
piston/connecting rod assembly up and
remove it from the top of the bore, and ensure
that the connecting rod big-ends do not mark
the cylinder bore walls. 
13Note that the number stamped by you on
each bearing cap should match the cylinder
number stamped on the front (alternator
bracket side) of each connecting rod. If any
connecting rod number does not match its
correct cylinder, mark or label it immediately
so that each piston/connecting rod assembly
can be refitted to its original bore.
Removal - alternative methods
14If the engine is being completely
dismantled and the cylinder head has been
removed, either unbolt the main bearing
ladder so that the crankshaft can be rotated
with care, or remove the crankshaft
completely and then remove the connecting
rods and pistons.
Cylinder head bolts - condition
check
15Check the condition of the cylinder headbolts and particularly their threads whenever
they are removed. If the cylinder head only is
removed, check the bolts as described in 
Part A of this Chapter. If the cylinder 
head and the oil rail are removed, check as
follows.
16Keeping all the bolts in their correct fitted
order, wash them and wipe dry, then check
each for any sign of visible wear or damage.
Renew any bolt if necessary. Lightly oil the
threads of each bolt, carefully enter it into the
original hole and screw it in, by hand only until
finger-tight. If the full length of thread is
engaged, the bolt may be re-used. If the 
full length of thread is not engaged, measure
the distance from the oil rail gasket surface to
under the bolt head (see illustration).
17If the distance measured is less than 378
mm, then the bolt may be re-used. If the
distance measured is more than 378 mm, the
bolt must be renewed. Considering the task
these bolts perform and the pressures they
must withstand, owners should consider
renewing all the bolts as a matched set if
more than one of the originals fail inspection
or are close to the limit set.
18Note that if any of the cylinder head bolt
threads in the oil rail are found to be
damaged, then the oil rail must be renewed.
Thread inserts are not an acceptable repair in
this instance.
10 Crankshaft- removal
4
Note:The following procedure assumes that
the crankshaft alone is being removed and
therefore uses a slightly different sequence of
operations to that given in Section 9.
Depending on the reason for dismantling,
either sequence may be adapted as
necessary. If the crankshaft endfloat is to be
checked, this must be done when the
crankshaft is free to move. If a dial gauge is to
be used, check after paragraph 1, but if feeler
gauges are to be used, check after para-
graph 9.
1Remove the timing belt, sprocket(s) 
and tensioner, and the timing belt inner 
cover.
2Slacken and remove the two dipstick tube
retaining bolts and remove it from the cylinder
block/crankcase.
3Remove the cylinder head. The crankshaft
cannot now be rotated.
4Remove the oil pump.
5Remove the crankshaft left-hand oil seal.
6Remove the sump and unbolt the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe from the oil rail. Discard
the sealing ring.
7Unscrew the two retaining nuts and remove
the oil rail.
8Working in the sequence shown (see
illustration), progressively unscrew the main
bearing ladder retaining bolts by a turn at a
time, then withdraw the ladder. Note the two
locating dowels and the main bearing shells,
which should be removed from the ladder and
stored in their correct fitted order (see
illustration).
9Mark the big-end bearing caps, then
unscrew and remove the big-end bearing cap
bolts and withdraw the cap, complete with the
lower bearing shell, from each of the four
connecting rods (see illustration). Push 
the connecting rods up and off their
crankpins, then remove the upper bearing
shell. Keep the cap, bolts and (if they are to be
refitted) the bearing shells together in their
correct sequence.
2B•8 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
10.9  Removing No 1 cylinder big-end
bearing cap and lower bearing shell10.8b  Removing main bearing ladder (two
locating dowels arrowed)
10.8a  Crankshaft main bearing ladder bolt
slackening sequence
A Bolts hidden in ladder flanges
B Location of single longer bolt
9.16  Checking length of cylinder head
bolts
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
Fit the bearing cap, shells
and bolts to each removed
piston/connecting rod
assembly, so that they are
all kept together as a
matched set. 
						

							10Remove the crankshaft (see illustration).
11Withdraw the two thrustwashers from the
No 3 main bearing upper location. Noting the
position of the grooved shells, remove the
upper main bearing shells, which must be
kept with their correct respective partners
from the main bearing ladder so that all shells
can be identified and (if necessary) refitted in
their original locations.
12Check the condition of the cylinder head
bolts, as described in Section 9.
11 Cylinder block/crankcase-
cleaning and inspection
4
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
Note: During any cleaning operations, take
care not to score the mating surfaces of the
cylinder block/crankcase, bearing ladder and
oil rail. It may be necessary to use a foam
action gasket remover.
Cleaning
1For complete cleaning, remove the cylinder
liners, all external components and all
electrical switches/sensors.
2Scrape all traces of gasket from the cylinder
block/crankcase, bearing ladder and oil rail,
taking care not to damage the gasket/sealing
surfaces.
3Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted).
The plugs are usually very tight and may have
to be drilled out and the holes re-tapped. Use
new plugs when the engine is reassembled.
4If any of the castings are extremely dirty, all
should be steam cleaned.
5After the castings are returned, clean all oil
holes and oil galleries one more time. Flush all
internal passages with warm water until the
water runs clear, then dry thoroughly and
apply a light film of oil to all liner surfaces to
prevent rusting. If you have access to
compressed air, use it to speed up the drying
process and to blow out all the oil holes and
galleries.
6If the castings are not very dirty, you can do
an adequate cleaning job with hot soapy
water and a stiff brush. Take plenty of timeand do a thorough job. Regardless of the
cleaning method used, be sure to clean all oil
holes and galleries very thoroughly and to dry
all components well. Protect the liners as
described above to prevent rusting.
7 All threaded holes must be clean to ensure
accurate torque readings during reassembly.
To clean all threads exceptthose of the
flywheel retaining bolts, run the proper size
tap into each of the holes to remove rust,
corrosion, thread sealant or sludge and to
restore damaged threads. If possible, use
compressed air to clear the holes of debris
produced by this operation. A good
alternative is to inject aerosol-applied water-
dispersant lubricant into each hole, using the
long spout usually supplied. Always wear eye
protection when cleaning out holes in this
way. The flywheel retaining bolt threads must
be cleaned by using the procedure described
in Section 18, in Part A of this Chapter. Now is
a good time to check the condition of the
cylinder head bolts.
8Apply suitable sealant to the new oil gallery
plugs and insert them into the holes in the
block. Tighten them securely.
9If the engine is not going to be reassembled
right away, cover it with a large plastic bag to
keep it clean. Protect the liners as described
above to prevent rusting.
Inspection
10Inspect all castings for cracks and
corrosion. Look for stripped threads. If there
has been any history of internal coolant
leakage, it may be worthwhile having an
engine overhaul specialist check the cylinder
block/crankcase with special equipment. If
defects are found, have them repaired, if
possible, or renew the assembly.
11Check the bore of each cylinder liner for
scuffing and scoring.
12Measure the diameter of each cylinder
liner bore 60 mm from the top of the bore,
both parallel to the crankshaft axis and at right
angles to it.
13Compare the diameter with that specified.
If any measurement exceeds the service limit
then the liner must be renewed.
14Measure the piston diameter at right
angles to the gudgeon pin axis, 16 mm up
from the bottom of the skirt. Compare the
results with those specified.
15To measure the piston-to-bore clearance,
either measure the bore and piston skirt as
described above and subtract the skirt
diameter from the bore measurement, or
insert each piston into the original bore, select
a feeler gauge and slip it into the bore along
with the piston. The piston must be aligned
exactly in its normal attitude and the feeler
gauge must be between the piston and bore
on one of the thrust faces, 20 mm up from the
bottom of the bore.
16If the clearance is excessive, then a new
piston will be required. If the piston binds 
at the lower end of the bore and is loose
towards the top, then the bore is tapered. Iftight spots are encountered as the
piston/feeler gauge is rotated in the bore, then
the bore is out-of-round.
17Repeat this procedure for the remaining
pistons and cylinder liners.
18If the cylinder liner walls are badly scuffed
or scored, or if they are excessively worn, out-
of-round or tapered, obtain new cylinder
liners. New pistons will also be required.
19If the bores are in reasonably good
condition and not worn to the specified limits,
and if the piston-to-bore clearances can be
maintained properly, then it may only be
necessary to renew the piston rings.
20If this is the case, the bores should be
honed to allow the new rings to bed in
correctly and provide the best possible seal.
The conventional type of hone has spring-
loaded stones and is used with a power drill.
You will also need some paraffin, or honing
oil, and rags. The hone should be moved up
and down the bore to produce a crosshatch
pattern and plenty of honing oil should be
used. Ideally the crosshatch lines should
intersect at approximately a 60° angle. Do not
take off more material than is necessary to
produce the required finish. If new pistons are
being fitted, the piston manufacturers may
specify a finish with a different angle, so their
instructions should be followed. Do not
withdraw the hone from the bore while it is still
being turned, but stop it first. After honing a
bore, wipe out all traces of the honing oil. If
equipment of this type is not available, or if
you are not sure whether you are competent
to undertake the task yourself, an engine
overhaul specialist will carry out the work at
moderate cost.
12 Cylinder liners- 
removal and refitting
Removal
1Invert the cylinder block/crankcase and
support it on blocks of wood, then use a hard
wood drift to tap out each liner from the
crankshaft side. When all the liners are
released, tip the cylinder block/crankcase on
its side and remove each liner from the
cylinder head side. Discard the two sealing
rings from the base of each. If the liners are to
be re-used, mark each one by sticking
masking tape on its right-hand (timing belt)
face and writing the cylinder number on the
tape.
Refitting
2To install the liners, thoroughly clean the
liner mating surfaces in the cylinder
block/crankcase and use fine abrasive paper
to polish away any burrs or sharp edges
which might damage the liner sealing rings.
Clean the liners and wipe dry, then fit new
sealing rings to the two grooves at the base of
each liner and apply a thin film of oil to the
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures  2B•9
10.10  Removing the crankshaft
2B
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							rings and to the liner surface on each side of
the rings (see illustration).
3If the original liners are being refitted, use
the marks made on removal to ensure that
each is refitted the same way round into its
original bore. Insert each liner into the cylinder
block/crankcase, taking great care not to
displace or damage the sealing rings, and
press it home as far as possible by hand.
Using a hammer and a block of wood, tap
each liner lightly but fully onto its locating
shoulder (see illustration). Wipe clean, then
lightly oil all exposed liner surfaces to prevent
rusting.
13 Piston/connecting rod
assembly- inspection
3
1Examine all pistons for ovality, scoring and
scratches, and for wear of the piston ring
grooves. Use a micrometer to measure the
pistons (see illustration).
2If the pistons or connecting rods are to be
renewed, it is necessary to have this work
carried out by a Rover dealer or suitable
engine overhaul specialist who will have the
necessary tooling to remove and install the
gudgeon pins.
3If new rings are to be fitted to the original
pistons, expand the old rings over the top of
the pistons. The use of two or three old feeler
gauge blades will be helpful in preventing therings dropping into empty grooves (see
illustration).
4When the original piston rings have been
removed, ensure that the ring grooves in the
piston are free of carbon by cleaning them
with a ring cleaning tool or an old ring. Break a
ring in half to do this.
5When measuring new rings, lay out each
piston set with a piston/connecting rod
assembly and keep them together as a
matched set from now on.
6Check the ring-to-groove clearance by
inserting each ring from the outside together
with a feeler gauge blade between the ring’s
top surface and the piston land. Check the
ring end gaps by inserting each ring into the
cylinder bore and pushing it in with the piston
crown to ensure that it is square in the bore,
20 mm from the top. Use feeler gauges to
measure the gap (see illustrations).
7If the end gap of a new ring is found to be
too large or too small, double-check to ensure
that you have the correct rings. If the end gap
is still too small, it must be opened up by
careful filing of the ring ends using a fine file. If
it is too large, this is not as serious unless the
specified service limit is exceeded, in which
case very careful checking is required of the
dimensions of all components as well as of
the new parts.
8Note that each piston should be considered
as being matched to its respective liner and
they must not be interchanged.
14 Crankshaft- inspection
3
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air! Be
sure to clean oil holes with a
pipe cleaner or similar probe.
Checking endfloat
1If crankshaft endfloat is to be checked, this
must be done when the crankshaft is still
installed in the cylinder block/crankcase but is
free to move.
2Check endfloat by using a dial gauge in
contact with the end of the crankshaft. Push
the crankshaft fully one way and then zero the
gauge. Push the crankshaft fully the other way
and check the endfloat. The result can be
compared with the specified amount and will
give an indication as to whether new
thrustwashers are required.
3If a dial gauge is not available, feeler
gauges can be used. First push the crankshaft
fully towards the flywheel end of the engine,
then use feeler gauges to measure the gap
between the web of No 3 crankpin and the
thrustwasher.
Inspection
4Clean the crankshaft and dry it with
compressed air, if available.
5Check the main and crankpin (big-end)
2B•10 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
13.5b  Measuring piston ring end gap13.5a  Measuring piston ring-to-groove
clearance13.3  Removing piston rings with feeler
blades
13.1  Measuring piston diameter12.3  Tap liner onto locating shoulder -
ensuring O-rings are not displaced12.2  Renew liner O-rings
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97