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Land Rover Rover 214 Repair 1689 02b Rover Manual

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Page 1

2B
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
Chapter 2 Part B  Engine removal 
and general overhaul procedures
Crankshaft - inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running clearance check  . . 18
Crankshaft - removal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Cylinder block/crankcase, bearing ladder and oil rail - cleaning 
and inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ....

Page 2

Loss of power, rough running, knocking or
metallic engine noises, excessive valve gear
noise and high fuel consumption may also
point to the need for an overhaul, especially if
they are all present at the same time.
An engine overhaul involves restoring all
internal parts to the specification of a new
engine. During an overhaul, the cylinder liners,
the pistons and the piston rings are renewed.
New main and big-end bearings are generally
fitted and, if necessary, the crankshaft may be
renewed to restore...

Page 3

12Trace the clutch cable back from the
clutch release lever to the bulkhead and
remove the C-clip which retains the outer
cable spring in position. Unhook the 
inner cable from the release lever and free the
outer cable from its mounting bracket and
position it clear of the gearbox.
13From underneath the vehicle, pull out the
rubber retaining pin which secures the lower
end of the speedometer cable to the gearbox
housing. Withdraw the cable from the
speedometer drive and remove the O-rings
from the cable...

Page 4

out over the front of the body and lower the
unit to the ground (see illustration).
35To separate the engine and gearbox, first
remove the starter motor.
36Unbolt the flywheel front, lower and rear
cover plates, then unscrew the four bolts
securing the gearbox to the engine and gently
prise the gearbox off the two locating dowels
(at the front and rear of the main bearing
ladder). Move the gearbox squarely away
from the engine, ensuring that the clutch
components are not damaged.
37If the engine is to be...

Page 5

similar small container (see illustration). Note
that No 1 valve is nearest to the timing belt
end of the engine.
7 Cylinder head and valves-
cleaning and inspection
4
Note:If the engine has been severely
overheated, it is best to assume that the
cylinder head is warped and to check carefully
for signs of this.
Note:Be sure to perform all the following
inspection procedures before concluding that
the services of a machine shop or engine
overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of
all items that...

Page 6

even the renewal of the valve or seat insert is
required.
14Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside down on a
bench.
15Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade of)
valve-grinding compound on the seat face and
press a suction grinding tool onto the valve
head. With a semi-rotary action, grind the valve
head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to
redistribute the grinding compound (see
illustration). A light spring placed under the
valve head will greatly ease this...

Page 7

7Remove the sump and unbolt the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe from the oil rail. Discard
the sealing ring (see illustration).
8Unscrew the two retaining nuts and remove
the oil rail (see illustration).
9Using a hammer and centre punch, paint or
similar, mark each connecting rod big-end
bearing cap with its respective cylinder
number on the flat, machined surface
provided. If the engine has been dismantled
before, note carefully any identifying marks
made previously (see illustration). Note that
No 1...

Page 8

push the connecting rod up and off the
crankpin, ensuring that the connecting rod
big-ends do not mark the cylinder bore walls,
then remove the upper bearing shell. Keep the
cap, bolts and (if they are to be refitted) the
bearing shells together in their correct
sequence.
11With Nos 2 and 3 cylinder big-ends
disconnected, repeat the procedure
(exercising great care to prevent damage to
any of the components) to remove Nos 1 and
4 cylinder bearing caps.
12Remove the ridge of carbon from the top
of each...

Page 9

10Remove the crankshaft (see illustration).
11Withdraw the two thrustwashers from the
No 3 main bearing upper location. Noting the
position of the grooved shells, remove the
upper main bearing shells, which must be
kept with their correct respective partners
from the main bearing ladder so that all shells
can be identified and (if necessary) refitted in
their original locations.
12Check the condition of the cylinder head
bolts, as described in Section 9.
11 Cylinder block/crankcase-
cleaning and...

Page 10

rings and to the liner surface on each side of
the rings (see illustration).
3If the original liners are being refitted, use
the marks made on removal to ensure that
each is refitted the same way round into its
original bore. Insert each liner into the cylinder
block/crankcase, taking great care not to
displace or damage the sealing rings, and
press it home as far as possible by hand.
Using a hammer and a block of wood, tap
each liner lightly but fully onto its locating
shoulder (see illustration). Wipe...
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